Katowice
.jpg)
Katowice is a large city in the Silesian Voivodeship (województwo śląskie) in the south of Poland. In 2021 it had a population of 315,000; it's the central city of Metropolis GZM (population 2.3 million) which in turn is part of Upper Silesian-Moravian metropolitan area sprawling across the Czech border. It's not scenic, but has a rich industrial heritage.
Understand
[edit]A series of medieval villages grew up in the forest clearings of Silesia, working at agriculture and small-scale metal-bashing; Katowice is first documented among these in 1598. They urbanised from the 18th century when coal mines plumbed deeper underground, and better processes were invented for extracting metals such as zinc and for turning iron into steel. Katowice outgrew its neighbours and in 1873 it became the county town. Poland in those centuries was carved up by other nations and Katowice was part of Prussia, later of Germany. It was well-connected by rail to other cities and attracted service industries such as banking. After the First World War the border was re-drawn, based on a plebiscite; Katowice voted to remain German but the district all around it voted to join Poland and it had to follow suit, becoming the regional capital.
The Second World War and Nazi occupation brought a high human cost but only selective damage to city buildings - the synagogue was one obvious target but city industry was wanted for the war effort. Then in 1945 the Red Army "liberated" Katowice by destroying much of it, and post-war communist rulers carried on in that vein. Rynek the central market square was soon ringed by the shabby 1960-70s architecture now mocked as "Early Gierek". Later in the 20th century traditional smokestack industry collapsed, labour unrest grew, and the miners of Katowice were as instrumental in the downfall of "the People's Republic" as the ship-builders of Gdańsk.
The city, region and entire nation of Poland had to re-invent themselves after 1989, developing a western free-market economy with a greater role for service sector, education and IT. Other Polish cities have prettified themselves into romantic budget-flight weekend destinations - that was never realistic for Katowice. It does however have a wealth of heritage, good visitor amenities, and transport links around Silesia and beyond.
In the 2000s, Katowice gained a higher profile by creating a new convention center and hosting the United Nations Climate Change Conference (2018) and being designated the European City of Science (2024).
Get in
[edit]
By plane
[edit]Onward transport:
- The AP airport bus takes 52 min to go directly to the main railway and bus stations, every 30 min daytime and hourly through the night, 6.60 zloty (don't confuse it with bus M11 which has the same terminus but takes 77 min with countless stops).
- Matuszek Bus runs direct to Kraków.
- Buses also run direct to Bytom (No 85, 53), Mierzęcice (No 17) and Sosnowiec.
Kraków (KRK IATA) is a major tourist destination so its John-Paul II Airport has excellent connections across Europe. Flixbuses from Warsaw and Gdańsk call here every few hours on their way to Katowice, but it's usually more convenient to take the frequent bus or train into Kraków city centre and change.
By train
[edit]Trains from Warsaw run hourly and take just under 3 hours via Sosnowiec. They may start from Gdynia or Gdańsk.
From Kraków they run hourly and take an hour via Myslowice.
From Berlin Lichtenburg, two trains a day take 6 hr 30 min via Rzepin, Zielona Gora, Glogow, Lublin, Legnica, Wrocław, Opole, Gliwice and Zabrze, and continue to Kraków. From Wrocław the service is every hour or so, taking two hours and continuing to Kraków, Tarnów, Rzeszów, Łańcut and Przemyśl on the Ukraine border.
From the Czech Republic, trains run from Ostrava every hour or two, taking two hours via Bohumin, Wodzislaw Slaski, Rybnik and Tychy. These may start from Prague, Vienna or Budapest.
On cross-border routes, look for split-ticket deals. Reservations are compulsory on all trains from Germany in July and August.
2 Katowice Railway Station 
Outlying stations are Zaleze 3 km west, Brynów 5 km southwest and Ligota another 4 km south, and Zawodzie 3 km east.
By bus
[edit].jpg)
From Warsaw, Flixbus runs five times a day, taking 4-5 hours via Katowice Airport.
From Gdańsk they run eight times, taking 8-9 hours via Toruń, Włocławek, Łódź and the airport.
From Berlin they run every hour or two, taking 8 hours via Berlin Airport, Wrocław and Opole.
From Prague they run eight times, taking 6 hr 30 min via Brno, Olomouc and Ostrava. From Vienna takes 6 hours by the same route.
From Kraków is a frequent service. Flixbus, Unibus and Bus-Inter all run hourly, taking 65 min, for a fare in 2024 of 15 zł. They use large coaches with luggage trunks; consider booking, as they sell out at busy times.
By road
[edit]From Kraków take 
west 60 km.
From Wrocław take southeast 180 km.
From Warsaw take 
southwest 300 km.
From Vienna, Prague, Bratislava and Brno head for Ostrava then take 
northeast across the border.
Get around
[edit]
On foot
[edit]Many sights are within a km or two of Rynek or the main railway station. The pavements are broad and level.
By bus or tram
[edit]ZTM Metropolia run almost all buses and trams across the 40-some cities of Upper Silesian Metropolis, which straddles the Czech border. They have a unified ticket system.
(PKM Jaworzno are an exception. They run blue and yellow buses on some 20 routes, including lines A, E and J from Aleja Korfantego. They have a completely different fare system; but you're unlikely to use them and they're not described further here.)
In 2024 tickets valid for 20 mins are 4.60 zł, 40 mins 5.60 zł, 90 minutes or for the full route 6.60 zł, and a 90 minute group ticket for up to 5 people is 13 zł. A one-day pass valid until midnight is 12 zł. Concessionary fares are 50% of the relevant normal fare. All these tickets are valid for unlimited transfers within the allotted time. You can also buy e-packages of 20, 40 or 80 tickets (which roughly halve the unit journey price but don't allow transfers), and 30-, 90- and 180-day e-passes.
You can buy tickets from kiosks, newsagents, shops, machines at the main stops, or at POP passenger service points: these are within Katowice railway station, at Pocztowa 10 near Rynek, and at the ZTM offices on Barbary 21a. The only ticket you can buy on boarding is the 90 minute 6.60 zł (or concessionary 3.30 zł) ticket from bus drivers, who don't give change (they don't yet have contactless payment), and are sometimes out of tickets.
You must validate your ticket immediately on boarding. Inspectors prowl, and an unvalidated ticket is as bad as no ticket at all. For outlying sights buy your return ticket along with your outbound in case you find no convenient ticket point or the machine is broken, and with trams you don't have the option of paying the driver.
By taxi
[edit]There are taxi ranks at the airport, north entrance of the railway station at 3 Maja, the bus station, main hotels and city transport nodes. Ask the price beforehand or the taxi driver will use his wildest imagination. Using an app such as Uber ensures an agreed price.
See
[edit]
- 1 Rynek
- Zachód Słońca - "Sunset" - is a neon installation on Rynek, a red globe low over the Rawa canal.
- 2 History of Katowice Museum
- 3 Silesian Organ Museum
- 4 Cathedral of Christ the King
- 5 Archdiocesan Museum
- 6 Church of the Immaculate Conception
- 7 Cathedral of the Resurrection
- 8 Goldstein Palace
- 9 Former Municipal Bathhouse
- 10 BWA Contemporary Art Gallery
- 11 Rondo Sztuki
- 12 Silesian Museum
.jpg)
- 13 Museum of Computers and IT
- 14 Jewish cemetery
- 15 Silesian Insurgents' Monument
Further out
[edit]- 16 St Michael the Archangel
- 17 Silesian Freedom and Solidarity Centre (Śląskie Centrum Wolności i Solidarności), Wincentego Pola 38, ☏ +48 32 438 7966. Tu Th 10:00-18:00, W F Sa 09:00-16:00. Wujek is still an active coal mine, producing sub-bituminous coal. This was suitable for power stations as it contains little sulphur, but it emits disproportionate CO2 so its markets are shrivelling. The mine is best known as the scene of the "Pacification" of Dec 1981, when riot police shot dead nine miners striking against the imposition of martial law. In Sept 2009 an underground explosion killed over 20 miners. The museum depicts the labour uprisings of the 1980s, the nucleus of the Solidarity movement that eventually toppled communism in Poland.
- 18 Katowice Forest Park
- 19 Valley of Three Ponds
- 20 Walcownia Museum of Zinc Production
- 21 Gallery Szyb Wilson
- 22 Nikiszowiec
- 23 Giszowiec
- 24 Franciscan Monastery in Panewniki
- 25 Kościuszko Park
Do
[edit].jpg)
- 1 Spodek
- 2 International Congress Centre
- Football: GKS Katowice play soccer in 1 Liga, the second tier. Their home ground Stadion GKS (capacity 6700) is on Bukowa, 3 km northwest of city centre and just over the boundary with Chorzów. Other top tier (Ekstraklasa) teams nearby are in Chorzów, Zabrze and Gliwice.
- Ice hockey: GKS Katowice play in Polska Hokej Liga, the top tier. Their home rink is within Spodek.
- 3 Silesian Library
- Board games and puzzles: Ludiversum is a board games cafe at Kamienna 7, next to Hostel Centrum near the railway station.
- Flamberg is a hobby and games shop at Adama Mickiewicza 3, near the Marriott.
- Or get in touch with Silesian Fantasy Club.
Cinema
[edit]Katowice has several new, multi-screen cinemas and some traditional ones. Check if films are shown dubbed or sub-titled.
Performing arts
[edit]
- 9 Silesian Theatre
- 10 Teatr Korez
- 11 Teatr A Part, 3 Maja 11. Contemporary visual and physical theatre group, formed by Marcin Herich, actor, director and organizer of theatre events.
- 12 Teatr Ateneum
- 13 Teatr Gry i Ludzie (Games and People's Theatre), Gliwicka 120, ☏ +48 501 395 069. Experimental and mainly outdoor theatre group.
- 14 Teatr Żelazny, Gliwicka 148, ☏ +48 577 380 377. Small off-beat theatre.
- 15 Silesian Philharmonic
- 16 National Polish Radio Symphony Orchestra
Events
[edit]- JazzArt Festival is in April.
- A-Part Festival is an international look at alternative and experimental "Off" theatre. It runs over a week in June, see A-Part Theatre above.
- Tauron Festival is a Techno and dance rave in the Industrial Museum Complex in June.
- Fitelberg Competition for Conductors is organised by the Silesian Philharmonic (see above) and held in July.
- OFF Festival is a new music event over the first weekend in August.
- CIOFF organise folk music and dancing festivals globally, with the Katowice event held Aug / Sept.
- Rawa Blues Festival is an indoor blues festival in October.
- Mayday is a Techno music event held at Spodek in November.
- Polish Directors' Art Festival "Interpretacje". Festival of theatres and TV drama, with a competition for directors for the "Konrad Prize". It was last held in Nov 2022.
Learn
[edit]
- All of these may offer short courses suitable for visitors, though their main offerings are for undergrads.
- 1 University of Silesia
- University of Economics (Uniwersytet Ekonomiczny), 1 Maja 50. Public university with some 10,000 students.
- Academy of Music (Akademia Muzyczna), Zacisze 3. This offers university-level courses (some in English) and degrees.
- Academy of Physical Education (Akademia Wychowania Fizycznego), Mikołowska 72A. Mostly Higher education courses, but some at degree level.
- Medical University of Silesia (Śląski Uniwersytet Medyczny), Poniatowskiego 15. This has departments of Medicine, Dentistry, Pharmacy, Public Health and Health Sciences (which covers nursing, physical therapy and dietetics).
- Academy of Fine Arts (Akademia Sztuk Pięknych), Raciborska 37. It offers degree-level courses in English.
- Silesian University of Technology (Politechnika Śląska) is based in Gliwice. but the Faculties of Materials Science and Metallurgy, of Transport and of Management are sited here.
Buy
[edit]Shopping centres are mostly north of the station. Galeria Katowicka is adjacent on 3 Maja, open M-Sa 09:00-21:00.
Silesia City Center is 3 km northwest on the boulevard to Chorzów, with Cinema City.
Eat
[edit]
Budget
[edit]- 1 Złoty Osioł (Golden Donkey), Mariacka 1, ☏ +48 32 253 0113. M-Sa 11:00-20:00, Su 12:00-20:00. Lively vegetarian bar hosting events like poet meetings or concerts.
- Tradycyjne Zapikanki, Mariacka 1 (by Golden Donkey). M-Th 11:00-23:00, F Sa 12:00-03:00, Su 14:00-22:00. Fast food place open late.
- 2 Talerz Szklanka, Staromiejska 12, ☏ +48 501 060 030. M-F 11:00-18:00. Called a milk bar, but it's trad filling Silesian food, perfectly seasoned and textured.
- Mój Kaprys, Kochanowskiego 10 (opposite Hostel Polonia), ☏ +48 792 732 110. Tu-Su 11:00-18:00. Great place with tasty home-style food, generous portions and good coffee. Nice atmosphere inside and friendly service.
- 3 Okiem i Brzuchem, Kościuszki 18. If you're looking for local Silesian cuisine on the map of Katowice. Selection is "10". Great decor, delicious food, great service. Unique atmosphere.
- 4 Mekong, Słowackiego 21, ☏ +48 32 725 1390. M-F 11:00-18:00, Sa 11:30-15:00. Fresh authentic Vietnamese cuisine.
Mid-range
[edit]
- Hurry Curry, Sw Stanisława 1 (opposite Cathedral of the Resurrection), ☏ +48 511 433 663. Su, Tu-Th 12:00-21:00, F Sa 12:00-22:00. Indian and southeast Asian food, some vegetarian and vegan options available.
- 5 Carlos Burger&Lunch, Jagiellońska 11, ☏ +48 786 865 913. M-Th 12:00-21:00, F Sa 12:00-23:00, Su 13:00-20:00. Large burgers, decent price, friendly staff.
- 6 Pierogi Świata, Jagiellońska 4, ☏ +48 506 424 928. Tu-F 12:00-20:00, Sa Su 13:00-20:00. The name means "Dumplings of the World" and it's an eclectic offering of trad Polish and fusion.
- 7 Żurownia, Ligonia 16, ☏ +48 535 084 666. Su M 12:00-21:00, Tu-Sa 12:00-22:00. Traditional Silesian specialties and beer.
- 8 Dobra Karma, Sw Jacka 1, ☏ +48 784 903 662. Su-Th 12:00-19:30, F Sa 12:00-21:30. Veggie cafe for breakfasts, pizzas, soups, pastas,child-friendly. The name's a bit of an uneasy fusion, but suppose they'd called it Theek Hai Los.
- Fantasmagoria, Gliwicka 51 (opposite Cinema City), ☏ +48 571 808 722. Daily 13:00-22:00. Polish and Georgian cuisine. Bright interior and a terrace in summer. Cash payment only.
- 9 CityRock, Chorzowska 9B, ☏ +48 573 000 595. Su, Tu-Th 10:00-22:00, M 16:00-22:00, F Sa 10:00-00:00.. Retro American-style diner, for wings, pizza, burgers and the like.
- 10 Wiejska Chatka, Plac Grunwaldzki 4, ☏ +48 32 350 3010. Su-Th 11:00-21:00, F Sa 11:00-22:00. Family-friendly place for trad Silesian cuisine, no alcohol.
- 11 Zaklęty Czardasz, Kopernika 9, ☏ +48 32 257 0132. Tu-Sa 12:00-22:00, Su 12:00-21:00. Splendid Hungarian restaurant and winery in a cellar.
- 12 U Babuni, Jana Kilińskiego 16, ☏ +48 32 250 0103. Su-Th 11:00-20:00, F Sa 11:00-21:00. Rustic wooden interior, good value trad meals.
- 13 Buddha, Drzymały 9, ☏ +48 726 111 222. Daily 12:00-21:00. Mostly good reviews for this Indian restaurant.
Splurge
[edit]
- Koku Sushi, Gliwicka 57 (opposite Cinema City), ☏ +48 530 381 381. Daily 12:00-22:00. Sushi place with a large menu selection.
- 14 Patio, Stawowa 3, ☏ +48 32 781 5555. M-Sa 11:00-22:00, Su 11:00-21:00. Top quality Silesian and Polish specialties from this long-established restaurant.
- 15 Patio-Park, Kosciuszki 101, ☏ +48 511 191 190. M-F 11:00-22:00, Sa 12:00-23:00, Su 12:00-21:00. Another branch of Patio, with wonderful Polish cuisine, and a beautiful setting by Kosciuszki Park.
- 16 Karcma pod Strzechom, Grzyśki 13 (off Rolna), ☏ +48 513 997 159. Su-Th 11:00-22:00, F Sa 11:00-23:00. Done up like a mountain chalet, this serves trad country dishes.
Drink
[edit]- Katofonia, Mielęckiego 6 (block north of Golden Donkey), ☏ +48 32 201 0184. Su-Th 17:00-23:00, F Sa 17:00-03:00. Live rock, blues and other music.
- Lorneta z Meduzą, Mariacka 5 (by Golden Donkey), ☏ +48 323 232 323. M-F 07:00-04:00, Sa Su 09:00-04:00. Bistro bar with filling food.
- 1 Cooler Club, Mariacka 20, ☏ +48 508 249 198. F Sa 20:00-05:00. Weekend late spot.
- Hipnoza Jazz Club, Plac Sejmu Śląskiego 2 (behind Teatr Korfez), ☏ +48 660 476 156. Tu-Th 13:00-23:00, F Sa 14:00-01:00, Su 14:00-23:00. Jazz and other music, drinks and interesting dishes.
- 2 Spiż, Opolska 22, ☏ +48 885 408 406. F Sa 21:00-05:00. Club with decent music and drink.
- 3 Absurdalna, Dworcowa 3, 40-012. Spacious indoor and patio seating.
Sleep
[edit]Budget
[edit]- Hostel Katowice Centrum, Andrzeja 19 (just south of station), ☏ +48 535 111 655. Clean and very convenient.
- 1 Hostel Polonia, Jana Kochanowskiego 3, ☏ +48 323 200 021. It's a basic hotel rather than a hostel. Gets noise from the nearby station. B&B double 200 zł.
- Ibis Budget Katowice Centrum, al Walentego Roździeńskiego 18 (next to Novotel), ☏ +48 32 350 5040. Good Accor hotel, service and comfort beyond its price range. B&B double 250 zł.
- 2 Hotel Diament, al Wojciecha Korfantego 35, ☏ +48 32 606 8585. Comfy friendly place on a tram route, some noise from the events hall. B&B double 450 zł.
- 3 Jopi Hostel, Plebiscytowa 23, ☏ +48 32 204 3432. Friendly hostel with 2-, 4- and 6-bed rooms, six bathrooms and shared kitchen. The neighbourhood is a bit rough. 100 zł ppn.
Mid-range
[edit]
- Mercure Katowice Centrum, Młyńska 6 (facing station), ☏ +48 32 797 8800. Convenient Accor chain hotel. B&B double 550 zł.
- 4 Hotel Mariacki (Best Western; formerly Hotel Śląski), Mariacka 15, ☏ +48 32 708 0800. Clean, friendly and central. B&B double 500 zł.
- Hotel M23 is by the Mariacki at No 23 and gets good reviews.
- 5 Courtyard by Marriott, Uniwersytecka 13 (within Altus shopping mall), ☏ +48 32 438 9350. Smart place in the centre. Double (room only) 500 zł.
- 6 Novotel, al Walentego Roździeńskiego 16, ☏ +48 32 200 4444. Spacious efficient Accor chain hotel convenient for motorists. With pool, sauna and gym. B&B double 500 zł.
- 7 Hotel Senator, 1 Maja 3, ☏ +48 698 767 425. Comfy simple place. On a tram route, so this means some street noise. B&B double 300 zł.
- 8 Hotel Załęże, Gliwicka 106, ☏ +48 698 766 963. Two km west of main railway station and downtown, this is okay for what you pay. B&B double 300 zł.
- 9 Marysin Dwór, Pukowca 17a, ☏ +48 322 544 089. Simple accommodation in the industrial suburbs next to Załęże railway station. B&B double 300 zł.
- 10 Stary Nikiszowiec, Nałkowskiej 10, ☏ +48 32 255 4682. Modern simple place in a former miners' estate. Double (room only) 200 zł.
- Hotel Jantor next door is filthy.
Splurge
[edit]- 11 Hotel Monopol, Dworcowa 5 (300 m east of station), ☏ +48 32 782 8282, [email protected]. Grand old central hotel, opened in 1903, with modern spacious rooms. B&B double 600 zł.
- 12 Qubus Hotel, Stanisława Moniuszki 9, ☏ +48 32 778 0100, [email protected]. Modern, central four-star hotel. The Sky Bar has nice views from the 27th floor. B&B double 600 zł.
- 13 Vienna House Easy, Sokolska 24, ☏ +48 32 783 8100. Slick modern hotel in the centre with 203 comfortable rooms and apartments. B&B double 550 zł.
Connect
[edit]- As of April 2024, Katowice, its approach roads and nearby towns have 5G from all Polish carriers.
Stay safe
[edit]
Standard precautions about safeguarding valuables, beware traffic (including trams, which run along Rynek and other pedestrian spaces), and avoid drunks.
Go next
[edit]- Chorzów 5 km west has a zoo, amusement park and the Silesian Ethnographic Park.
- Tychy 12 km south has a Brewing Museum.
- Central Firefighting Museum in Mysłowice.
- Mining skansen in Zabrze.
- Silver mine and Black Trout Gallery in Tarnowskie Góry.
- Auschwitz-Birkenau is the Nazi death camp complex by the town of Oświęcim.