Kakheti within Georgia

Kakheti is a region in eastern Georgia, famous for great weather, golden hills, and Georgia's principal wine country.

Cities

• 1 Gurjaani – One of the centres of Georgia's wine industry. Landmarks include the Church of the Dormition aka Church of All Saints (Kvelatsminda; 8th-9th century), Museum of Local Lore and History, the Museum of Nato Vachnadze, and the historic mud-cure resort of Akhtala.
• 2 Sighnaghi – A restored wine town with an Old Town, the Pirosmani Museum and an extensive fortifications, as well as the Bodbe Monastery (aka Bodbe Convent or St. George of Bodbe) on its outskirts.
• 3 Telavi – The capital of Kakheti is a convenient base for exploring the region's wineries, castles, and monasteries, in features the palace of King Erekle II, an ethnographic museum and a famous 900-year-old plane tree. Nearby are an old and popular fortress, the Alaverdi Cathedral. Telavi is the basis for exploring the mountains of Tusheti.
• 4 Tsinandali – Featuring Tsinandali Palace-museum, historic winery which once belonged to the 19th-century aristocratic poet Alexander Chavchavadze, and many trees similar to the very old one found in Telavi.
• 5 Kvareli – Known for its Kindzmarauli wine and as the birthplace of Georgian author Ilia Chavchavadze, whose fortified house here is preserved as a local museum.
• 6 Mukuzani – A wine town known for its white grapes and wine of the same name.

Other destinations

• 1 Pankisi Gorge – A an infamous part of Georgia, after Russia claimed Chechen terrorists were using it as a base for attacking Russians in Chechnya, but the gorge is now safe and still home to many Chechen refugees–probably the safest place in the world to experience Chechen culture.
• 2 Tusheti – A gorgeous mountain region with traditional cultures and great trekking.
• 7 David Gareja Monastery Complex – One of Georgia's most famous monasteries, with beautiful cave frescos, near the border with Azerbaijan
• 8 Lagodekhi – A pretty border town on the road to Sheki, Azerbaijan, near the beautiful national park with the same name (see #Do below)
• 9 Omalo – A village up in the mountains of Tusheti
• 10 Velistsikhe – A village with many old and unmodern houses, and a big solid theater right in the middle.

Understand

Kakheti (კახეთი) is a historical province in eastern Georgia. Kakheti, and especially the Alazani valley, is the biggest wine region of Georgia and is considered the cradle of wine. The legend states that from here the wine spread all over the world. And indeed, the main attraction of that region, besides the old churches and monasteries, are the hundreds of small and large, modern and ancient wineries, partly still run family owned.

Also read #Drink below to better understand the importance of this wine region.

Talk

Georgian is unquestionably the main language in the region, but much of the older generation speak Russian and the younger generation is increasingly speaking English due to hostility towards Russia, and also because English is taught in schools since independence and has replaced Russian as a second language in schools nation-wide. When in need for help, look for younger people, as they are more likely to know some English.

If you happen to speak Chechen, you could have a very interesting experience in Georgia's Pankisi Gorge, where many Chechen refugees have set up shanties.

Get in

By bus

The bordering Georgian region to the west is Kartli, which has several (mini)buses every day running between Tbilisi and mainly Telavi, Gurjaani or Sighnaghi.

The main route is by Gurjaani, but for Telavi it is faster take the turn before Sartichala and across the Gombori Pass.

Coming from the east, it is possible to enter Georgia (and Kakheti) from Azerbaijan with minibuses from (and to) Qax (Qakh) and Zaqatala, which travel through Kakheti and mostly further to Tbilisi – read there.

By car

There are two options to get into Kakheti from the west. One is highway no. 5 and no. 42 by Gurjaani The other and newer option is highway no. 38, departing shortly after the Tbilisi city border near Vaziani north from highway no. 5. The latter one is via the Gombori Pass and can be slow due to the many turns and serpentines. In winter and with snow it is recommended to take the former route.

The road between Akhmeta and the Georgian Military Highway, via Tianeti, can only be done by 4WD.

Get around

Generally, everything is true what is mentioned under the same section in the Georgia country article.

Within Kakheti, several marshrutkas travel between the major cities and towns of that region. For Tusheti you have to hire a Jeep / 4WD with driver for about 200 lari.

Of course, travelling by car is an option, and so is hitch-hiking.

See

• 1 David Gareja  
• 2 Alaverdi Monastery (Basilica of Alaverdi, St. George Cathedral)  
• 3 Tusheti National Park  

Historical Kvevris (clay jugs) within Ikalto

• 4 Ikalto Monastery  

Akhali Shuamta

• 5 Shuamta Monasteries (close to Ikalto and 10 km west of Telavi along the road to Tbilisi). This complex contains Akhali and Dzveli Shuamta, which were renovated in 2008, including a paved road for access. 

• Akhali (new) Shuamta (Georgian: ახალი შუამთა; ɑχɑlɪ ʃʊɑmtʰɑ), 3 km from the highway, is a Georgian orthodox nunnery from the 16th century, which was founded by the wife of Kind Levan II., Tinatin, due to Old Shuamta slowly falling apart. Tinatin was also buried in Akhali Shuamta.
• 6 Dzveli Shuamta (updated Sep 2020)

• 7 Gremi Cathedral  

In Nekresi, Kvevris (clay jugs) are buried in the floor of the wine cellar

• 8 Nekresi (updated Mar 2023)

Vachnadziani Church of All Saints

• 9 Vachnadziani Church of All Saints / Vachnadziani Kvelatsminda  
• 10 Ujarma Castle  
• 11 Tsinandali Gardens. 10:00-19:00 (winter time 10:00-17:00). The residential palace of the Chavchavadzes family. It has a charming garden of a medium size. 2 lari - entrance to the park; 5 lari - entrance to the park + ticket to the museum (incl. guide service). 
• 12 Basilica of Vazisubani (St. Mariam Church / წმინდა მარიამის სახელობის), Vazisubani. 
• 13 Khornabuji fortress  
• 14 Sabatsminda Church  
• 15 Ninotsminda Monastery  

Do

Festival at the Alaverdi Cathedral, by Grigory Gagarin, 1847

This region is famous for its wine route, notably Tsinandali, Gurjaani and Kvareli, as well as the hiking opportunities in its three national parks / nature reserves, especially Tusheti.

• 1 Alaverdoba. End of September. The wine harvest festival is happening all around Alaverdi Monastery every September. It takes place several days and reaches its peak on 28th September, the day of the holy Ioseb Alawerdeli (Joseph of Alaverdi). This festival has been a tradition and popular for centuries and even survived the Soviet Union. 
• 2 Lagodekhi Nature Reserve (updated Mar 2023)

Vaslovani National Park

• 3 Vashlovani National Park, famous for hiking and bird watching.
• Hike 73 km along the Russian border from Omalo (Tusheti) to Shatili (Stephantsminda), see Tusheti.
• 4 Temi Community Bicycle Rental, Gremi (Follow the Wineroute-Signs into the village starting at Gremi cathedral), ☏ +995 591633633, [email protected]. 10:00-20:00. Rents bicycles for self-guided trips through the nearby vineyards of Gremi. 10-25 lari per person. 
• Rafting and canoeing. ...along the Iori river. 

Eat

• 1 Kachreti Champion (კაჭრეთის ჩემპიონი). Restaurant is located right on the Kakheti Highway. It offers local Kakhetian cuisine. It has open-area seats. The food is delicious but buying wine is not worth it. It has become very popular with locals and tourist, and now even boasts a branch with the same name in Tbilisi. US$10 per person. 
• 2 Tschakuna Papas Dukani (ჩხაკუნა პაპას დუქანი) (along the highway no. 5, 500 m southwest of the Iori bridge), ☏ +995 790613110. Nice restaurant with garden, as well as affordable and decent cuisine (delicacy: Chaschlama). Gets very busy during weekends, so better to reserve ahead or try Salchino Restaurant across the road. 
• Underneath the Ujarma Castle, there are several picnic tables with fire places, where you can grill your own Mzwadi.

Drink

Great drinking opportunities await visitors to Kakheti. The most important wine villages are Tsinandali, Kvareli and Anaga. The most important grapes are Saperavi (red) and Rkaziteli (white). Many households produce their own wine, which they will happily offer when visited.

Kvevris above ground, not buried

Kvevris burying process in Winery

The classical wine production is done in Kvevris, clay jugs, which is the most important distinction from other wine regions like France. Even though modern methods like metal and plastic tanks slowly take over, they are still unwooded and greatly influence the taste of Georgian wine.

Some wineries (especially the Teliani Tsinandali Winery) will give nice, commercial tours to anyone who shows up, whenever they show up, which include wine tasting. As a matter of fact, if you go to any of the wineries and ask for a tour, you will get one, although they may not be very professional about it (and may not charge you anything). Because nearly all of Georgia's high quality wine is exported, and because there are not many tourists in Kakheti, it can actually be impossible to buy wine directly from smaller wineries (even under the table!). Wineries that are not licensed to sell directly to visitors should have an official store nearby, but be sure to call ahead of time to make sure that it is open.

But of course the best drinking opportunities are in the homes of the ordinary people of Kakheti. Nearly every household has its own homemade, usually delicious wine. If you are the least outgoing and speak either Georgian or Russian, chances are you will get invited into someone's home for wine and food – do not pass this up! Your host may also offer you Georgian chacha, an outrageously potent vodka distilled from grapes, which you may indeed want to pass up.

• 1 Tsinandali Winery (200-300 m before Shumi Winery). The Tsinandali Winery is more than just a winery, it is also a large and attractive estate-park, with a large manor owned by former President Eduard Sheverdnadze. Originally, the aristocratic poet Alexander Chavchavadze built his cottage here in 1835. In 1886, the vineyard was founded, after successfully fighting the vine fretter. Many of the cellars were built for storing millions of litres of wine. The treasury still contains about 16,500 bottles, which are stored at 10-14 °C and at a humidity of 60-70 %. About 500 bottles originate from the 19th century, though their quality is in doubt.
  The winery gives nice and commercial tours to anyone who shows up. Though, they want you to pay (separately) for: (1) looking at the garden, (2) viewing at the wine museum, and (3) 20 lari fixed price and quantity of wine tasting (there is no choice to try fewer/more wines and/or quantity). 7 lari - park, museum & 1 glass of wine; 20 lari - the same as previous one + 6 wines for tasting.. 
• 2 Shumi Winery (200 m northwest from Tsinandali Gardens). They provide complimentary wine tasting and their wine museum is free to view as is their property. Though, it appears they have now adopted their neighbour's approach and offer wine tasting including 3 wines for 15 lari. There also a shop selling their own wine with prices 10-35 lari per bottle. 
• 3 Kindzmarauli Winery. Kindzmarauli is a delicious sweet red wine, which has been made for centuries, but the winery is a stark lesson in underinvestment. There are no regular tours, but if you just show up, people will be more than happy to show you around. 
• 4 Marani Winery, Kurdgelauri (5 km north of Telavi), ☏ +995 350236111, [email protected]. cellar tours: M-F 10:00-16:00; tasting: 10:00-16:00. €11-12. 
• 5 Temi Community, Gremi (follow the wineroute-signs 2 km from the Gremi Cathedral into the village), ☏ +995 591633633, [email protected]. 10:00-20:00. 6.7 ha of organic kvevri wine produced by a community of deprived but very friendly people. Often English, German or Russian speaking people are present to help with the choice. Wine tastings, the opening of a Kvevri or the self-production of Churchkhelas, and other activities are offered. They also sell delicious and high-quality Chacha. Georgian food is available when ordered in advance. The wine has control no.: CC-AB-063-031. (updated Apr 2023)
• 6 Twins Wine Cellar, Napareuli. 

Sleep

Many homestay opportunities exist in this region, ask around or follow the local signs.

• 1 Kiwi Guest House, 35, Vashlovani St, Lagodekhi, ☏ +995 557499489, +995 551245072, [email protected]. A family run guest house, operated by the owners children and friends. From 30 lari. 
• 2 Guesthouse Vashlovani, 92, Vashlovani St, Lagodekhi, ☏ +995 599856657. The owner speaks Russian and English, and also offers various kinds of meals. 
• 3 Lopota Lake Resort and Spa (ლოპოტა), Napareuli, Lopota Valley, Kvareli, ☏ +995 32 2 400 400, [email protected]. Check-in: 12:00, check-out: 12:00. This resort is in the beautiful Lopota Valley, surrounded by ridges of the Caucasian mountain range, and it has a recreation area stretched over 1 million m². 

Stay safe

• Hiking in the steppe of David Gareja and Vashlovani, it is important to carry enough water and to put on proper sunscreen. There are only a few shops or wells around. Also pay attention to snakes, some of which can be venomous.
• Near Lagodekhi, in summer 2012, a group of armed men from Dagestan crossed the border illegally and took several local people hostage. According to Georgian police, the Islamist terrorists were fought successfully and killed, without hurting any of the hostages. Therefore, it might advisable to avoid hiking too close to the border, even though the danger of renewed incidents is very low. Read more on this here: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lopota_incident

Go next

There is no onward travel within Georgia, and you will probably return to Tbilisi first and continue travelling from there.

However, if you head southeast past Lagodekhi, you will enter the beautiful Sheki Region of Azerbaijan. There are regular (mini)buses from Tbilisi to Qax (Qakh) and Zaqatala (at least three a day), which you might be able to board along the way if you reserve ahead. There might also exist (mini)buses from Gurjaani or Lagodekhi.