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Sport climbing at the Summer Olympics

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Sport climbing at the Summer Olympics
IOC CodeCLB
Governing bodyIFSC
Events4 (men: 2; women: 2)
Summer Olympics
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Competitions in the sport of climbing, governed by the International Federation of Sport Climbing (IFSC), have been held at two editions of the Summer Olympic Games. First selected as one of the discretionary sports at the 2020 and 2024 games, sport climbing will be inducted as one of the mandatory sports at the 2028 games. Athletes compete in the disciplines of bouldering, lead climbing, and speed climbing. All three were contested as a single event in the 2020 programme, while speed climbing was spun off into its own event in the 2024 programme. Slovenia have won the most gold medals (2), while Austria, Japan, and the United States have won the most medals overall (3 each).

Bid for inclusion

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The inclusion was proposed by the International Federation of Sport Climbing (IFSC) in 2015.[1] In September 2015, competition climbing was included in a shortlist along with baseball, softball, skateboarding, surfing, and karate to be considered for inclusion in the 2020 Summer Olympics;[2] and in June 2016, the executive board of the International Olympic Committee (IOC) announced that they would support the proposal to include all of the shortlisted sports in the 2020 Games.[3] Finally, on August 3, 2016, all five sports (counting baseball and softball together as one sport) were approved for inclusion in the 2020 Olympic program.[4]

Competition format

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At the 2020 Summer Olympics, two climbing events were contested: men's combined and women's combined. The competition format combined three disciplines of competition climbing: competition speed climbing, competition bouldering, and competition lead climbing. This decision caused widespread criticism in the climbing community.[5]

Members of the IFSC explained that they were only granted one gold medal per gender by the Olympic committee, and they did not want to exclude speed climbing. The IFSC's goal for the 2020 Olympics was primarily to establish climbing and its three disciplines as Olympic sports; changes to the format could follow later. This tactic proved to be successful as they were granted a second set of medals for the 2024 Summer Olympics, where speed climbing will be a separate event from the combined event of lead climbing and bouldering.[6][7][8]

Technical information

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The difficulty of the lead climb is the same for men and women with the route set within a narrow grade range. The difficulty of the four boulder problems are in a wider range of difficulty with the women's problems being within a slightly easier grade range than the men's.

The tables bellow lists the grade ranges:

Climb French Numerical American YDS UIAA UK Trad UK Tech German / Swiss Eubank Nordic Brazilian Tech South African
Lead Min. 9c 5.15d XIII- E11 8c 39 41
Max. 9c+ 5.16a XIII E11 9a 39 41
Climb Fb-Grade V-Grade
Men's Boulder Min. 7c+ V10
Max. 8b+ V14
Women's Boulder Min. 7c V9
Max. 8a+ V12

NB: The sources give lead grades in UK Tech and boulder grades in V-Grades.[9][10] For lead grades, French, American, UIAA, UK Trad, Eubank, and South African have been converted from UK Tech using the following tables.[11][12] For boulder grades, Fb-Grades have been converted from V-Grades using the following table.[12]

Summary

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Games Events Best nations
2020 Summer Olympics 2  Spain (1)
 Slovenia (1)
2024 Summer Olympics 4  Poland (1)

Events

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Current program
Event 2020 2024 Years
Men's combined (s, b, l) X 1
Men's combined (b, l) X 1
Men's speed X 1
Women's combined (s, b, l) X 1
Men's combined (b, l) X 1
Women's speed X 1
Events 2 4

Participating nations

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The following nations have taken part in the Olympic climbing competition. The numbers in the table indicate the number of competitors sent to that year's Olympics.

Nation 2020 2024 Years
 Australia 2 2 2
 Austria 2 2 2
 Belgium 1 1
 Canada 2 1
 China 2 7 2
 Czech Republic 1 1 2
 France 4 7 2
 Germany 2 3 2
 Great Britain 1 4 2
 Indonesia 4 1
 Iran 1 1
 Italy 3 4 2
 Japan 4 4 2
 Kazakhstan 1 1 2
 New Zealand 2 1
 Poland 1 2 2
 ROC 3 1
 Slovenia 2 3 2
 South Africa 2 4 2
 South Korea 2 3 2
 Spain 1 2 2
 Switzerland 1 1 2
 Ukraine 2 1
 United States 4 8 2
Nations 19 22 24
Climbers 40 68
Year 2020 2024 2

Olympic records history

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Event Round Climber Nation Time Games Date Record
Men's combined (speed) Qualification Bassa Mawem  France 5.45 2020 Tokyo 3 August 2021 OR[13]
Women's combined (speed) Qualification Aleksandra Mirosław  Poland 6.97 4 August 2021 OR[14]
Final Aleksandra Mirosław  Poland 6.84 6 August 2021 WR[15]
Women's speed Qualification Aleksandra Mirosław  Poland 6.06 2024 Paris 5 August 2024 WR[16]
Men's speed Bronze medal match Sam Watson  United States 4.74 8 August 2024 WR

Medal table

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As of the women's combined event of 2024 Olympics[17]
RankNationGoldSilverBronzeTotal
1 Slovenia (SLO)2002
2 Poland (POL)1012
3 Great Britain (GBR)1001
 Indonesia (INA)1001
 Spain (ESP)1001
6 Japan (JPN)0213
 United States (USA)0213
8 China (CHN)0202
9 Austria (AUT)0033
Totals (9 entries)66618

Medalists

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Men's combined

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Games Gold Silver Bronze
2020 Tokyo
details
Alberto Ginés López
 Spain
Nathaniel Coleman
 United States
Jakob Schubert
 Austria
2024 Paris
details
Toby Roberts
 Great Britain
Sorato Anraku
 Japan
Jakob Schubert
 Austria

Men's speed

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Games Gold Silver Bronze
2024 Paris
details
Veddriq Leonardo
 Indonesia
Wu Peng
 China
Sam Watson
 United States

Women's combined

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Games Gold Silver Bronze
2020 Tokyo
details
Janja Garnbret
 Slovenia
Miho Nonaka
 Japan
Akiyo Noguchi
 Japan
2024 Paris
details
Janja Garnbret
 Slovenia
Brooke Raboutou
 United States
Jessica Pilz
 Austria

Women’s speed

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Games Gold Silver Bronze
2024 Paris
details
Aleksandra Mirosław
 Poland
Deng Lijuan
 China
Aleksandra Kałucka
 Poland

See also

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References

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  1. ^ "IFSC Proposes Sport Climbing For Toyko 2020 Olympic Games". The British Mountaineering Council. Archived from the original on Aug 10, 2019.
  2. ^ "Surfing and skateboarding make shortlist for 2020 Olympics". GrindTV.com. September 28, 2015. Archived from the original on August 13, 2016. Retrieved August 8, 2016.
  3. ^ "IOC Executive Board supports Tokyo 2020 package of new sports for IOC Session - Olympic News". Olympic.org. June 1, 2016. Retrieved August 8, 2016.
  4. ^ "IOC approves five new sports for Olympic Games Tokyo 2020". Olympics.org. International Olympic Committee. August 3, 2016. Retrieved August 22, 2016.
  5. ^ "Rock climbing will be a 2020 Olympic sport. Here's what to expect". National Geographic. 17 April 2019. Archived from the original on Aug 10, 2019.
  6. ^ "Rock climbing will be a 2020 Olympic sport. Here's what to expect". National Geographic. 17 April 2019. Archived from the original on Aug 10, 2019.
  7. ^ "Vertical Triathlon: The Future of Climbing in the Olympics". climbing.com. 30 August 2016. Archived from the original on Aug 10, 2019.
  8. ^ "Olympic Committee Unanimously Votes to Include Sport Climbing in Paris 2024 Games". climbing.com. 25 June 2019. Archived from the original on Jul 4, 2019.
  9. ^ https://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/in_focus/what_does_it_take_to_become_an_olympic_climber-13741 [bare URL]
  10. ^ https://www.climbing.com/competition/olympics/how-hard-is-olympic-sport-climbing/ [bare URL]
  11. ^ https://www.mountainproject.com/international-climbing-grades [bare URL]
  12. ^ a b https://rockfax.com/climbing-guides/grades/ [bare URL]
  13. ^ "Sport Climbing – Men's Combined – Speed Qualification Results" (PDF). Tokyo 2020. Archived (PDF) from the original on 3 August 2021. Retrieved 3 August 2021.
  14. ^ "Sport Climbing – Women's Combined – Speed Qualification Results" (PDF). Archived from the original (PDF) on 2021-08-04. Retrieved 2021-08-08.
  15. ^ "Sport Climbing – Women's Combined – Speed Final Brackets" (PDF). Archived from the original (PDF) on 2021-08-06. Retrieved 2021-08-08.
  16. ^ "Sport Climbing - Women's Speed, Qualification Seeding heats Results". 5 August 2024. Retrieved 8 August 2024.
  17. ^ "Sport Climbing - Medal Standings" (PDF). Olympics.com. International Olympic Committee. 8 August 2024. Retrieved 8 August 2024.
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