Baghdad (Arabic: بـغداد Baġdād) is the capital and largest city of Iraq, with an estimated population of 6-7 million. Once one of the greatest centres of learning and culture in the world, Baghdad was the capital of the Abbasid Caliphate during the Islamic Golden Age. It was once a favoured destination on the 'hippie trail' and is packed full of sights.

Understand

History

Founded in 762 CE by caliph al-Mansur as the Round City, Baghdad became the seat of the Abbasid Caliphate and grew into one of the largest scientific centres in the Islamic world during the Golden Age of Islam. Five centuries of peace came to an end in 1258 when the city was destroyed by the Mongols who advanced westwards. After a period of Ottoman rule, Baghdad became the capital of Iraq under a British protectorate and as an independent state. Since then, Baghdad has been subject to war, terrorist attacks and attempts at reconstruction.

Get in

By plane

The national airline is Iraqi Airways that operates a growing fleet of more than 30 modern jets. They mainly provide domestic flights but Iraqi Airways also offers flights to numerous international destinations, including a few routes from Europe. Numerous other operators in the Middle East also fly to Baghdad, with daily flights from most regional hubs. There are also a few low cost airlines such as FlyBaghdad that have flights to Baghdad. The best way to travel from Europe is either with Austrian or Turkish Airlines. They operate several direct flights per week from Vienna respectively daily from Istanbul. For those working for Non-Governmental Organizations (NGOs) in Iraq, there are charter airlines operating into Baghdad.

The frequent sandstorms that hit the area can obscure visibility and cause flights to be turned away. It is not unusual for commercial flights to make it all the way to BIAP, and then turn around and return to their origin due to limited visibility on the runway.

• 1 Baghdad International Airport (updated Jul 2020)

By train

Nightly train services are available from Basra, arriving early morning. Prices range between 10,000 dinars for a couchette to 25,000 dinars for first-class. Trains run from Fallujah once daily and Samarra once weekly. Additionally, there are irregular services from Karbala, mostly during religious festivals. Due to the ongoing conflict cancellations are common.

• 2 Baghdad Central Station (updated May 2024)

By car

Overland travel is possible from all neighbouring countries and while major roads are generally in an acceptable condition, travelling by car is strongly discouraged due to violence. Baghdad is in the centre of Iraq's highway network, with Freeway 1 from Basra and continuing towards the Jordanian borde being the major thoroughfare. Confusingly, the road from Mosul is named Highway 1.

By bus

Multiple daily buses arrive from most major Iraqi cities. Long-distance bus services from Istanbul and Ankara restarted in the summer of 2018, with two departures per week. However journey time is a gruelling 30 hours or more. Most long-distance buses arrive at the sprawling 3 Al-Alawi bus terminal (گراج العلاوي), next to the central station. Buses leave and arrive from stands both north and south of the Allawi skyway.

Get around

While the almost daily bombings and shootings have subsided for the moment, there is always a risk of getting caught in violence when travelling around the city. Staying vigilant is essential. Many high-end hotels provide their own transport, some even with armored cars.

Baghdad is served by an extensive but chaotic bus network; maps and route information for the network are not available in English. Taxis are also plentiful and quite cheap to use. Walking is possible in parts of the city, especially in and around the old city. Cycling is not uncommon among locals, but there is next to no infrastructure to support it.

See

Bookstalls along Mutanabbi Street, in the old quarter.

National Museum of Iraq.

A combination of heavy redevelopment during the second half of the 20th century, two decades of warfare and neglect has not been kind to Baghdad's architectural and cultural heritage. Generally, the eastern side contains the older districts while the western side is newer. The historic old quarter contains a myriad of alleys and small streets with buildings dating back to the Ottoman era or even older. Many of them are unfortunately in various stages of disrepair. The old quarter is also home to the heart and soul of Iraqi literacy and intellectual community, Mutanabbi Street. The street is lined with bookstores and outdoor book stalls as well as cafés to discuss matters of the day.

• 1 Mustansiriya Madrasah (updated Jul 2020)
• 2 Qushla building (updated Nov 2020)
• 3 Baghdad Zoo (updated Dec 2017)
• 4 Khan Murjan (updated Sep 2021)
• 5 Firdos Square  

Museums

• 6 National Museum of Iraq (updated Dec 2017)
• 7 Baghdadi Museum (updated Feb 2017)
• 8 National Museum of Modern Art (updated Dec 2023)
• 9 Natural History Museum (updated Jan 2022)
• 10 Abdel-Karim Kassem Museum (updated Jan 2022)
• (updated Jan 2022)

Monuments, memorials and public art

Baghdad is home to many monumental monuments and displays of public art. Many were built during the dictatorship of Saddam Hussein and evoke mixed feelings among locals, while others are universally loved. A large number of high-profile public sculptures were made by Mohammed Ghani Hikmat (1929-2011), nicknamed the sheik of sculptors.

• 11 Monument to the Unknown Soldier (updated Dec 2017)
• 12 Al-Shaheed Monument (updated Sep 2021)
• 13 Swords of Qādisīyah (updated Dec 2017)
• 14 Freedom Monument (updated Feb 2020)
• 15 Kahramana (updated Jul 2020)
• 16 Save Iraqi culture monument (updated Dec 2020)
• 17 Ashaar Baghdad (updated Feb 2021)
• 18 North Gate War Cemetery (updated Nov 2021)

Mosques

A view of the Mausoleum of Umar Suhrawardi, with its leaning conical tower.

• 19 Abu Hanifa Mosque (updated Mar 2021)
• 20 Al-Kadhimiya Mosque (updated Dec 2017)
• 21 Al-Asifyah Mosque (updated Aug 2020)
• 22 Al-Khulafa Mosque (updated Aug 2020)
• 23 Al-Wazeer Mosque (updated Dec 2021)
• 24 Buratha Mosque (updated Jan 2022)
• 25 Haydar-Khana Mosque (updated Dec 2021)
• 26 Umm al-Qura Mosque (updated Dec 2017)
• 27 Zumurrud Khatun Mosque and Mausoleum (updated Jul 2020)
• 28 Mausoleum of Abdul Qadir Gilani (updated Nov 2021)
• 29 Mausoleum of Umar Suhrawardi (updated Nov 2021)

Churches

• 30 Cathedral of Our Lady of Sorrows (updated Feb 2020)
• 31 St. Joseph's Cathedral (updated Feb 2020)
• 32 Sayidat al-Nejat Cathedral (updated Nov 2020)
• 33 St. Gregory the Great Armenian Church (updated Jan 2022)
• 34 St George's Church. Anglican church, built in 1936. (updated Jan 2024)

Synagogues and Jewish heritage

Iraq was home to a large Jewish population until the early 1950s. Many left for Israel, often forcefully displaced by the government. Today, only fragments remain of Baghdad's Jewish heritage and there's a handful of Jews residing in the city.

• 35 Great Synagogue of Baghdad (updated Jan 2022)
• 36 Meir Taweig Synagogue (updated Jan 2022)

Palaces and landmarks

During the reign of Saddam Hussein, a large number of palaces were built. While not tourist sites per se, they can be of interest to the intrepid traveler. Many are in various states of disrepair and might not be open to the public.

• 37 Al-Faw Palace (updated Dec 2017)
• 38 As-Salam Palace (updated Oct 2020)
• 39 Republican Palace (updated Oct 2020)
• 40 Baghdad Clock (updated Jan 2022)
• 41 Baghdad Tower (updated Dec 2021)
• 42 Central Bank of Iraq Tower (updated Jan 2022)
• 43 Bab al-Wastani (باب الوسطاني). Last remaining part of the historic Baghdad city wall. (updated Jan 2022)
• 44 Iraq Royal Cemetery (updated Jul 2022)

Archaeological sites

View of the ziggurat at Dur-Kurigalzu. Notice that the structure in the foreground is a reconstruction.

• 45 Dur-Kurigalzu (updated Nov 2020)
• 46 Shaduppum (updated Nov 2020)

Do

• 1 Iraqi National Theatre (updated Dec 2021)
• 2 Baghdad Island Park (updated Jul 2022)

Work

There are several ways to work in Iraq as a foreigner. For US citizens the most obvious is the US Army which still maintains personnel here. Next are the government contractors, such as the construction company KBR. Many contractors hire personnel with prior military experience to return to Iraq. Persons with military experience or who are fluent in Arabic are especially sought after. Lastly, there are civilian government agencies in Iraq. USAID send their own personnel as well as contractors to Iraq.

The agencies above are all relevant for US citizens. Citizens of other countries with a presence in Iraq can apply for work through the respective agencies in their home country.

Buy

Rugs and DVDs are available to buy. Inspect the quality of rugs carefully: Some are cheap Chinese-made rugs, and many are extremely overpriced. Also, many DVDs, especially those from street vendors, are bootlegs of varying quality.

• 1 Baghdad Mall (updated Jan 2022)

Traditional markets

Traditional coppersmithing in a Baghdadi souk.

Baghdad is home to several traditional markets with vendors that both produce and sell their goods at the same market. One traditional art is coppersmithing with the Baghdad copper souk producing some of the finest copper artifacts in the world. However it and several other traditional crafts are in decline due to cheaper imported goods.

• 2 Coppersmith souk (updated Dec 2023)

Eat

Restaurants and cafés have been notorious targets for suicide bombers in the past, making eating out a quite dangerous activity.

Mid-range

• 1 Saj Alreef Restaurant (=صاج الريف - الكرادة), Al Wathiq Square، 62 St, ☏ +964 771 222 2860. Older but popular Baghdad restaurant featuring local as well as Western and Chinese cuisine. Comfortable interior. (updated May 2022)
• 2 Barley Restaurant, 42nd St, ☏ +964 783 051 4375. Daily 7AM-3:30AM. This eatery has a kind of macabre distinction of naming their large shawarma things after landmines. (updated May 2022)

Splurge

• 3 Samad Restaurant, Rowad St, couple blocks north of Mansour St on right, ☏ +964 773 005 5333. Daily Noon-1AM. Lots of kebabs and other meat here. Buffet. (updated May 2022)
• 4 Jadiriyah Floating Restaurant, Abu Nawas Street, ☏ +964 782 110 0101. Daily 7AM-Midnight. Not many places where you can eat aboard a ship in the Tigris River. Pricey and a good place to take the honey probably for a memorable buffet or masgouf and some bad Iraqi music. (updated May 2022)
• 5 Oyoon Baghdad Restaurant, Alsadah St, ☏ +964 780 444 4001. Daily Noon-Midnight. Rather expensive, but suited to impress an audience or spoil oneself with its views over the Tigris River and elements of Iraqi culture in its decor and food. Featuring kebabs and biryani, western food, and ice cream. Also has hookah and a gallery of cultural relics to admire. (updated May 2022)
• 6 La Vinto, 52nd St, ☏ +964 770 619 1919. Posh, and expensive, steakhouse with a large variety of meat. (updated Aug 2022)

Drink

Iraqi tea served at Shahbandar Café.

While Baghdad is undergoing something of a liberalization regarding both night life and alcohol, it is still not widely available and large parts of society frowns upon it. While some bars exists, particularly along Abu Nawas Street, a safe bet is always the bars of the top tier hotels. Many international organisations have their own bars as well, and some are open to outsiders.

Tea houses and cafés are however ubiquitous, and often open late into the night.

• 1 Shahbandar Café (updated Sep 2021)

Sleep

Most organizations arrange their own accommodation. Sleeping in hotels in the proper city is always a risk due to bombings.

Mid-range

• 1 Baghdad International Airport Hotel (فندق مطار بغداد الدولي). A standard business hotel, but with quite a hefty price. On secure grounds at the airport and often used by people visiting on business. USD225 for a standard room, lower rates when staying longer. (updated Jul 2020)
• 2 Inter Hotel, Abu Nawas St, ☏ +964 780 926 2844. (updated Jul 2020)

Splurge

• 3 Babylon Rotana Baghdad Hotel (updated Jul 2020)
• 4 Coral Baghdad Hotel, Corner of Jamia St and Mohammed Ismail Ezzat St, in Jadriyah District, ☏ +964 781 440 0000, [email protected]. An upstart hotel that has quickly become one of the most popular higher-end hotels in Baghdad. USD215+. (updated Jul 2016)
• 5 Cristal Grand Ishtar Hotel (updated Nov 2018)
• 6 Qaser Al-Masbah Hotel (at Masbah Crossing in Karada district), ☏ +964 783 403 8087, [email protected]. Luxury hotel, restaurant on site. Free Wi-Fi. (updated Feb 2017)

Stay safe

See also: War zone safety

Travel to Baghdad is not recommended because of security concerns. Westerners are particular targets of kidnapping and assassination by militant and extremist groups. Baghdad airport is secure, so transiting there if necessary is safe. See the warning on the Iraq article.

The easiest way to stay safe in Baghdad is not to go there in the first place, except for official reasons. Most expats and business travellers to Iraq hire a security detail which constantly monitors the security situation within Iraq and around Baghdad. Travel outside the International Zone is extremely dangerous. Roadside and car bombs are detonated every day in Baghdad. Many Iraqis are armed. Markets and popular gathering places are frequent targets of bombers. As a foreigner you are more likely to be targeted for kidnapping. Kidnappings are often financially motivated. These threats are not restricted to Americans or women. You are also likely to be refused access to accommodation as Iraqis will fear being targeted for supporting the occupying forces.

Heatwaves

See also: Hot weather

Baghdad is prone to heatwaves, with temperatures exceeding 50 °C (122 °F) during July and August. Making the situation worse, frequent electrical outages means that even where there is air conditioning it might not work. Being prepared and staying hydrated is essential.

Cope

Embassies

• Australia, Haifa Street, next to Ibn Sina Hospital, International Zone, Baghdad, Iraq, ☏ +964 780 923 7565, [email protected]. 
• Canada, British Embassy Compound, International Zone, ☏ +964 782 783 5084, [email protected]. 
• China, P.O.Box 2386，Al-jadryaa Post Office, ☏ +964 790 191 2315, [email protected]. 
• Greece, Hay Babil, AL-Jadriyah Sector 913, Rd. 31/ Built 63, ☏ +9641 778 2273, +964 790 364 2046 (Emergencies), fax: +870-763262272, [email protected]. 
• Romania, Mahalla 601, Zuqaq 15, no. C45, Al-Mansur Street, ☏ +964 780 446 2039, +964 0780 568 1943, fax: +964 1 778-04-89, [email protected]. Embassy 
• Serbia, Jadriya Babil District Mahala 923, ZUKAK 35, Bldg 16, ☏ +964 1 778-78-87, fax: +964 1 778-04-89. 
• United Kingdom, International Zone, ☏ +44 1908 516666, [email protected]. 
• 1 United States  

Go next

• Basra — second largest city in Iraq and its main port city
• Mosul — third largest city in Iraq
• Assur and Hatra — archaeological sites from the Cradle of Civilization
• Ctesiphon — archaeological sites just south of Baghdad