For other places with the same name, see Nan (disambiguation).

Nan (น่าน) is a town in the remote valley of the Nan River in the Northern River Valleys region of Northern Thailand, bordering Laos. The area is heavily forested with arable land used mainly for agriculture. It is an ancient city steeped in history with its long association with the Lanna Thai culture and the Sukhothai kingdom.

Although Nan is often overlooked by foreign tourists, don't let that discourage you from visiting. In fact, if you're seeking an authentic Thai experience, Nan is the perfect place to be.

Understand

Nan, a lesser-known region of Thailand, has a rich history that dates back centuries. It was once an autonomous kingdom that had limited contact with the outside world. Interestingly, the name "Nan" is also used to describe moon-faced children with buck teeth who are considered annoying in Thailand.

History

Archaeological evidence shows that prehistoric people inhabited the area, but it was not until the mid-14th century that several small meuangs (city-states) united to form Nanthaburi on the Nan River. This was around the same time that the Lan Xang (Million Elephants) kingdom was established in Laos and Luang Prabang was created. Nanthaburi, associated with the powerful Sukhothai kingdom, was given the title Wara Nakhon and played a significant role in the development of early Thai nationalism.

By the late 14th century, Nan had become one of the nine northern Thai-Lao principalities that formed Lan Na Thai, which is now known as Lanna. The city-state flourished under the name Chiang Klang (Middle City) in the 15th century. It was so named because of its location between Chiang Mai (New City) and Chiang Thong (Golden City, which is now Luang Prabang).

In 1558, the Burmese invaded and took control of the kingdom. They deported many of the inhabitants to Burma as slaves, and the city was completely deserted. It was not until 1786 that western Thailand was reclaimed from the Burmese, and the local dynasty regained sovereignty over Nan. However, it remained semi-autonomous until 1931 when it finally accepted the full dominion of Bangkok.

Visitors to contemporary Nan can still see parts of the old city wall and several early wats that date back to the Lanna period. The city's wats are unique and influenced by both Lanna and Tai Lü architecture. The Tai Lü people brought this architectural style from Xishuangbanna in China, where they originated from.

Orientation

The city spreads out along around 4 km, between the airport at the north end of town and the bus station at the south end, but its historical and commercial centre is more compact. Its area follows roughly a north-south orientation, along the right bank of the River Nan. The two main axes of the town, more or less parallel, are Sumonthewarat Rd (the easternmost and the closest to the river) and the Mahayot Rd. The city's main monuments are located at the junction of the three parallel axes: Pha Kong Rd (west), Mahayot Rd (middle), and Sumonthewarat Rd (east) and Suriyapong Rd which is perpendicular to them. As for the main shops, they can be found along the Sumonthewarat Rd and its perpendicular, Anantaworattidet Rd.

In the town, three bridges connect the right bank to the left bank of the River Nan: the southernmost, the Sriboonruang Bridge, the middle one, the Pattana Paknue Bridge, under which are held the boat races, and the northernmost, the Nakorn Nan Pattana Bridge.

• Tourist Information Centre, Pha Kong Rd (opposite Wat Phumin). Daily, 08:00-17:00. 

Get in

Nan is connected by plane and by bus to the rest of the country.

By plane

1 Nan Airport (NNT) (at the north end of town, on the road to Pua-Thung Chang-Thai-Laos border (Rte 1080), about 1.5 km from downtown). (updated Mar 2024)

• Thai Smile connects to Nan from Suvarnabhumi Airport (BKK), Greater Bangkok.
• Air Asia connects to Nan from Suvarnabhumi Airport (BKK) and Don Mueang Airport (DMK).l

By train

The train station serving Nan is Den Chai in Phrae Province, 145 km from Nan. From the train station, take a songthaew parked in front of the station to Phrae bus station, about 30 min. Then catch a bus to Nan. There is also bus service directly to Nan from Den Chai. But you need to go to Den Chai bus station to take the bus.

By bus

The best way to get to Nan is by bus. Download the Green Bus app for easy booking and schedule inquiries. Green bus is the sole bus company servicing Nan in the north.

2 Main bus station (at the southern edge of town, at the end of a road perpendicular (turn left when arriving from Bangkok) to Wiangsa/Phrae/Bangkok Rd.). (updated Mar 2024)

• From Bangkok: Buses to and from Bangkok take between 10 and 13 hours, according to the type of bus.
• From Chiang Mai: 6–7 hours.
• From Chiang Rai: 5–6 hours @ 09:30 from the Old Bus Station in Chiang Rai, 164 baht.
• From Phrae: 2 hours
• From Phitsanulok: 5 hours @ 11:00 and 16:30
• From Laos: Bus from Pakbeng via Muang Ngeun, 6-8 hours including border crossing (Feb 2024).

Get around

By car

One of the most efficient ways to get around the city is by car. The roads in Nan are typically spacious, well-maintained, and kept clean, making for a comfortable and smooth driving experience.

By motorcycle

Nan’s charm is undeniable, but the best part is the region and nature around the province, so renting a motorbike is recommended.

There are a few places nearby the bus station. Ask around to find a motorbike.

Prices in Nan tend to be a bit higher than other regions. This is due to the isolation and lack of tourist infrastructure. Expect to pay 250-300 baht per day (compared to 150-200 in Pai or Chiang Mai).

Two other places are:

• Hill Tribe House, 430/1 Sumondhevaraj Rd, Nai Weing (on the far side of Nan River, but you can just call and they come and collect you), ☏ +66 81 472 4131. Do a "Nan Riding and Camping Tour". You can also just rent a motorcycle. They have only 125cc bikes.
• Ultimate Adventure, 77/1-2 Mahawong Rd. Has Honda Dreams 110cc (250 baht/day), Kawasaki D-Tracker 125cc (500 baht/day), and Kawasaki KlX 250cc (800 baht/day). All bikes are new.

See

According to the Bangkok Post, the top two attractions are Doi Samer Dao and Wat Phumin, a temple with many local art masterpieces.

• 1 Pha Chu, or Pha Cheot Chu (ผาชูหรือผาเชิดชู) (80 km south of Nan). A cliff in Si Nan National Park (อุทยานแห่งชาติศรีน่าน) which covers extensive forested and mountainous areas. A national flag pole has a lanyard running all the way down to the foot of the hill, the longest in the country. (updated Sep 2018)
• Thung Chang. H'Mong, Lua, Khamu and Thai Lue ethnic minorities villages. Caves, including Tham Pha Pueng, the deepest cave in Thailand. Doi Pha Phueng, limestone mountain peak. Tad Mok waterfall (trek) and Phukham waterfall. Wat Thueng Phueng temple, with a Buddha of the fourteenth century. Mani Phruek botanical garden and hill tribes. (updated Sep 2018)

King of Nan's Teak House

• 2 King of Nan's Teak House  
• 3 Chao Fongkham House (updated Oct 2018)
• 4 Nan Riverside Art Gallery (หอศิลป์ริมน่าน) (on the Nan River, about 20 km out of town on the road headed to Tha Wang Pha (Rte 1080)). 09:00-17:00, closed on Wednesdays. Has many exhibition halls with temporary exhibition and souvenir shops. It can be reached by local songthaew (one that goes to Tha Wang Pha). 20 baht. 
• 5 Nan National Museum  
• 6 The Old Wall. Constructed in 1885 by Chao Anantavorarittidet, Nan’s ruler, the wall was built in place of an old log wall destroyed by flood in 1817. Remnants of the wall, around 400 m of the original 3,600 m, can be seen at the junction of Mahawong Rd and Rob Muang Rd, at the southwest end of town. 

Temples

• 7 Wat Phumin (updated Oct 2018)
• 8 Wat Phaya Wat (updated Sep 2018)
• 9 Wat Nong Bua (updated Sep 2018)
• 10 Wat Phrathat Beng Sakat (updated Sep 2018)
• 11 Wat Hua Khuang  
• 12 Wat Min Muang  
• 13 Wat Phaya Phu  
• 14 Wat Phra That Chae Haeng  
• 15 Wat Phra That Chang Kham Woravihan  
• 16 Wat Phra That Khao Noi  
• 17 Wat Suan Tan  

• 
  Wat Phumin, Nan
• 
  Inside Wat Phumin
• 
  Wat Phumin (murals)
• 
  Wat Phumin (murals)
• 
  Wat Hua Khuang
• 
  Wat Ming Muang
• 
  Wat Phra That Chae Haeng
• 
  Wat Phra That Chang Kham
• 
  Wat Suan Tan

Do

Events

Annual dragon boat races, Nan River

• NOT EXISTING LISTING IMAGE Boat Races. For centuries, long-boat racing have been held annually in provinces with a major waterway. Long-boat racing is one of the traditional rites which commemorates the end of the Buddhist Rains Retreat. It takes place mainly in the 10th and/or 11th lunar months (around Sep-Oct) when the water level is at its peak. Long-boat racing is considered a national sport. Its history can be traced back to Ayutthaya period, around 600 years ago. In that time, boat racing was only a way to keep boatmen fit for national defence. Racing boats are usually made from dugout tree trunks and can accommodate up to 60 oarsmen (commonly dressed in the same colour) in a double row. The festival attracts several hundreds of spectators. Trophies and prizes are given to the winning teams at the end. The races on the Nan River are colourful and unequalled because the boats are brightly adorned with imaginatively designed prows. The cheering squads on the river bank are usually rumbustious and joyful. 
• Namatsakan Phrathat Beng Sakat Fair (งานนมัสการพระธาตุเบ็งสกัด) is organized on the full night of the 4th northern lunar month (around January).
• Hok Peng Waisa Mahathat Chae Haeng Fair (งานประเพณี "หกเป็งไหว้สามหาธาตุแช่แห้ง") takes place on the full moon night of the 6th northern lunar month or the 4th central lunar month (around the end of February–March). Sky rockets are fired as an offering to the Buddha.
• Namatsakan Phrathat Khao Noi Fair (งานประเพณีนมัสการพระธาตุเขาน้อย) takes place on the full moon night of the 8th northern lunar month or the 6th central lunar month (around May). In the festival, there is a ceremony paying respect to Phrathat Khao Noi and sky rockets are fired as an offering to the Buddha.
• Namatsakan Song Nam Phrachao Thongthip Fair (งานประเพณีนมัสการสรงน้ำพระเจ้าทองทิพย์) at Wat Suan Tan during the Songkran festival on 12–15 April.
• Tan Kuai Salak, Hae Khua Tan or Khrua Than Festival (งานตานก๋วยสลาก หรืองานแห่คัวตาน หรือ ครัวทาน) Than Salak or Kuai Salak is an ancient tradition created in the Buddha's time. For the northern people, it is considered as a major local merit making ceremony possessing local uniqueness. Monks are invited to receive the offerings by drawing lots.
• Wai Phrathat Festival (งานประเพณีไหว้พระธาตุ). Nan is a town in the Lanna kingdom where Buddhism spread for a long period of time. Within the ancient city, both in Nan and in Pua Disrict, are wats on the hills. Every year, festivals paying respect to the important phrathats are organised as follows: 

Motorbiking

The top activity in Nan is motorbiking around the area. There are numerous national parks and tons of nature. As always, side roads are safer (and more interesting) than highways so try to stick to those. In general, road conditions are excellent and far fewer drivers are on the roads than other regions.

There is an excellent loop accessible from Nan called the Bo Kluea loop. It is a stunning and empty circuit that could be a day trip, but recommended 2/3 days to allow yourself to stop and take all the wonderful pictures you can.

Buy

Banks with ATMs can be found all over town, notably at Sumonthewarat Rd, Anantaworrattidet Rd and Sumon Thevarat Rd.

Department stores

• D Best Super Store, 42/3 Suriyapong Rd (near Nan Museum), ☏ +66 54 757161, fax: +66 54 710727. With a small cinema. 
• Nara Department Store (Old Nara), 400/1 Sumon Dhevaraj Rd. 
• Nara Hyper Mark (New Nara), 155 Sumon Dhevaraj Rd, (opposite Soi Aranyawat 2), ☏ +66 54 711102. 09:00-21:00. The biggest department store in town with a parking lot. 
• Tesco Lotus, 320 Moo 4, Yantarakitkosol Rd (Hwy 101 to Phrae, about 2 km from town centre), ☏ +66 54 743131. 09:00-22:00. Department store. 

Handicrafts

Good buys include local textiles, especially the Thai Lu weaving styles. Typical Thai Lu fabrics feature red and black designs on white cotton in floral, geometric and animal designs and also indigo and red on white. The lai naam lai (flowing-water design) shows stepped patterns representing streams, rivers and waterfalls. Other excellent quality textiles are the local Hmong appliqué and the Mien embroidery. Thin grass-and-bamboo baskets and mats and Hmong silverware are also available.

Nan is noted for making musical instruments which include the saloh (สะล้อ), a violin-like instrument, and the sung (ซึง), similar to a guitar. They are used in bands which can still be heard in certain restaurants.

Silverware, wood carving and hilltribe handicraft

The leading agricultural produce is the Som Si Thong (golden orange) (ส้มสีทอง) which are of the same species as oranges of the central region. Because of climatic differences, the local version is golden-skinned and more aromatic. They are in season in December.

• Hill Tribe House, 436 Sumonthewarat Rd, ☏ +66 14 72434, fax: +66 54 750691, [email protected]. 
• Jaangtrakoon, Sumonthewarat Rd. Mainly clothes for sale here. 
• Lan Nan Som Noek, 347/7 Sumonthewarat Rd (no English sign). 
• Pongparn, 10/4 Suriyapong, ☏ +66 54 75733, +66 15 955777, [email protected]. 

Other

• Easyintersoft, 345/8 Sumonthewarat Rd. Software and computer hardware. 
• Kodak, 347/4 Sumonthewarat Rd. Processing, passport photos, batteries. 

Eat

Budget

• Fresh Noodles stall, 90/3 Anantaworarittidet Rd (between 7-Eleven and the Ayuthaya Bank). 17:30-22:00. Thai food. 20-25 baht. 
• Jan Paa Lap Pet, 57 Sumonthewarat Rd (opposite Ampron Guesthouse, before Wat Pranete). 11:00-20:00. Thai (Isaan) food. 40-70 baht. 
• Night Market, Pha Kong Rd (just after the crossroads with Anantaworarittidet Rd (towards the Wat Suan Tan)). 17:30-02:00. Thai food. Many stalls, among which, the first one on the right side heading towards the Wat Suan Tan, serves up good value. Still on the right-hand side, but further on closer to the wat, is Luang’s stall. He's a charming man who speaks French, as the sign, Ici on parle français indicates. 20-50 baht. 
• No name, Mahayot Rd (heading north from Wat Suan Tan, before the Elephant Crossroads, on the right side, after the Mitsubishi dealer). 11:00-14:00. Thai food. Very good gai yang (grilled chicken), and som tam (papaya salad). 30-60 baht. 
• Ratchaphatsadu Market (between Sumonthewarat and Khao Luang Rd, close to the Dhevaraj Hotel). For take-away dishes (chicken or fish BBQ, Thai curries) and fresh fruit. 
• Tanaya Kitchen, 75/23-24 Anantaworarittidet Rd. 10:00-15:30; 17:00-20:00. Thai, Chinese, vegetarian food. English menu. 30-60 baht. 
• Yota Vegetarian Restaurant, Mahawong Rd. 07:00-15:00. Thai food. 10-30 baht. 

Mid-range

• Boat Restaurant, 21/1 Suan Tan Rd. 11:00-22:00. Western and Thai food and ice cream. English menu. Main dishes 40-120 baht, ice cream 30-130 baht. 
• Dhevee Coffee Shop, 466 Sumonthewarat Rd (in the Dhevaraj Hotel). 06:00-02:00. Western and Thai food. English menu. Breakfast buffet, 100 baht; lunch buffet, 59 baht. 
• DoReMi (Hot Pot Suki Shabu) (Sumonthewarat Rd, in the New Nara parking lot on the right). 17:00-22:00. Korean BBQ. Musical show from 19:30. All-you-can-eat dinner buffet, 69 baht. 
• 1 Nan Steakhouse  
• 2 Poom 3  
• Suan Isan, Sumonthewarat Rd (turn left at the lane next to Rung Thip Sawoei). 11:00-23;00. Thai food. 30-90 baht. 

Drink

• Drugstore, 347/6 Sumonthewarat Rd. The best wine cellar in Nan, many vintages from the end-1980s to beginning of the 1990s. French wines for moderate prices. 

Sleep

Budget

• 1 Amazing Guest House  
• Ampron Guesthouse, 42/4 Sumonthewarat Rd, ☏ +66 54 772291. 180 baht for fan, 280 baht for air-con.. 
• 2 Nan Guesthouse  
• P.K. Guest House, 33/12 Premprajarat Rd, ☏ +66 54 771999. Fan 150-250 baht, air-con 350 baht. Bicycle, 30 baht/day; motorbike, 180 baht/day. 
• Sabai Dee Guest House, Chao Fa Rd, Soi Aryawung 2 (close to the bus station), ☏ +66 83 8681982. 100-150 baht (depends on shared or private bathroom). 
• 3 The One House, 84 บ้านสวนหอม Pha Sing, Mueang Nan District, ☏ +66 856988802. Check-in: 13:00, check-out: 12:00. Family run hotel with a few nice and clean rooms with aircon and terrace. Quiet area but not far away from main sights. Free bicycles, small restaurant downstairs, thai/non thai breakfast. The owner speaks good english and can connect with a local moped rental. Taxi from/to airport available, it is possible to arrange tours around Nan and in the northern part of the region. 500-800 baht. (updated Feb 2024)

Mid-range

• Fahthanin Hotel, 303/5 Anantaworarittidet Rd, ☏ +66 54 757321-4. 450-600 baht. 
• Grand Mansion Hotel, Mahayot Rd (heading N, just after the Wat Suan Tan), ☏ +66 54 750510. UBC cable TV. 350-500 baht. 
• 4 Dhevaraj Hotel  

Splurge

• City Park Hotel, 99 Yantarakitkosol Road, Dutai District (on Hwy 101 to Phrae), ☏ +6654741343, fax: +66 54 773135. 600-3,000 baht. (updated Nov 2022)
• Pukha Nan Fa Hotel, 669 Sumon Dhevaraj Rd (city centre), ☏ +66 54 771111. 3,000-5,200 baht. 
• Sasidara Resort, 629 Moo 4 (on the way to Wat Pratat Khao Noi), ☏ +66 54 773936, +66 54 774483, fax: +66 54 773894. 900-2,500 baht. 

Stay safe

Nan is a remarkably safe city, making it an ideal destination for travellers who prioritise safety and security.

Connect

• Internet cafés. Many in town for around 20 baht/hour. 

Cope

• 1 Nan Hospital  
• Nan Tourist Police Station, 20/1 Suriyapong Rd (near Wat Ming Mueang), ☏ +66 54 710216. (updated Nov 2022)

Go next

The mountains of Doi Phu Kha National Park, approximately 80 km by road northeast of the city

If you plan on staying in Thailand or South East Asia for long, here are a few options to consider:

• Laos: Since Nan is close to the border with Laos, crossing over to Laos is an excellent option for travelers. The nearest border crossing is Huai Kon, which is about 2 hours from Nan by car. From there, travellers can explore the stunning UNESCO World Heritage town of Luang Prabang or head further south to Vang Vieng or the capital city of Vientiane. Make sure that your paperwork is in order before crossing over to Laos; the immigration regulations of Laos are much different than those of Thailand.
• Chiang Mai: the cultural hub of Northern Thailand, is about a 5-hour drive away from Nan.
• Sukhothai: an ancient city. Also a UNESCO World Heritage Site.