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Turner Classic Movies (Posts tagged beauty)

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THE ENCHANTED COTTAGE: Beauty is in the Eye of the Beholder By Kim Luperi

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Released near the end of WWII, THE ENCHANTED COTTAGE (’45) thoughtfully presented a timeless tale of love and the true nature of beauty to a war-weary nation. But it also dives below the surface, imparting sensitive commentary on society’s standards of attractiveness and belonging, matters of which always seem to remain relevant even as the world changes. 

In THE ENCHANTED COTTAGE, “homely” Laura (Dorothy McGuire) works as a housemaid at the cottage where handsome Oliver (Robert Young) and Beatrice (Hillary Brooke) plan to spend their honeymoon. However, WWII interrupts those nuptials, and a year later, Oliver gets discharged from service with visible battle scars. Bitter and almost driven to suicide, he shuts himself out from the world in that same cottage, where he befriends Laura and blind WWI veteran John (Herbert Marshall). Out of loneliness and convenience, Oliver and Laura marry, but something magical happens once they do: their physical imperfections melt away, but only to them, as love grants them the gift to see each other as they want to be seen.  

Sir Arthur Wing Pinero penned the source material in 1922 in part to provide a confidence boost for injured WWI veterans. His play first hit the screen in 1924, and two decades later, WWII offered a timely background to update the story with similar effect; in fact, Variety predicted the picture would inspire tolerance and “make rehabilitation of the boys easier.” Almost a century after the story’s debut, The Enchanted Cottage’s themes continue to endure. 

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WWII expanded women’s roles, making it more acceptable for them to trade, to an extent, elegance for practicability and comfort, especially those who worked in factory jobs vacated by men. Even so, media and pinup photography highlighted beauty and desirability, confirming both genders “assigned great importance to female attractiveness,” as Susan M. Hartmann wrote in The Home Front and Beyond. Indeed, women’s magazines continually emphasized traditional femininity and glamour, while publications that men flipped through accentuated the same – and more overt sexual appeal, too. 

As evidenced by her perceptive reaction to the shattering rebuffs she receives from servicemen at a dance, Laura does not fit the traditional modes of rouged-up style. Growing up in the internet age with similar pressures of glamour and perfect bodies everywhere I clicked, I identified with the humble and thoughtful Laura. Sure, society at large may not label her as physically attractive, but her appeal lies in the way she defends her worth and lives life on her own terms. The film presents her as more of a plain Jane, and viewers are privy to her compassionate character, which makes us root for her. That said, there has always existed a stark difference between the fantasy served up in media and women’s experience in the real world. Just like WWII opened up opportunities, modern women have access to a breadth of possibilities that have also altered how we live and look. Even though more diverse images of beauty are disseminated today, we still constantly consume meticulously crafted physical representations few can actually attain. The weight of 1940s societal pressures obviously left Laura with emotional scars, as such unreasonable demands still have the ability to do today. 

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Many soldiers returning from WWII also faced unrealistic expectations. As Mark D. Van Ells reported in To Hear Only Thunder Again, self-help books counseled veterans’ families to show patience, support and encouragement in difficult situations, which Oliver’s support system obviously didn’t do as he seeks to come to terms with his injuries. “Sensitivity seemed in short supply,” Thomas Childers remarked in Soldier from the War Returning when commenting on the stares and whispers disabled veterans regrettably encountered in public, which made many reluctant to venture out. That same social stigma and lack of empathy and kindness for one another, especially those who look different, sadly continue for too many today through bullying. In fact, internet anonymity seemingly gives people carte blanche to act much more cruelly online. 

As Oliver despondently admits to John, he just wants his old life back. John W. Jeffries observed in Wartime America that post-war magazines and newspapers focused on getting back to normal, like going on trips and picnics. For disabled veterans, though, their new normal necessitated a completely different existence. Today, people feel similarly as we’ve lived with the COVID-19 pandemic for over a year. Many grapple with re-entering a society that looks unlike the one we left, and many more deal with tremendous loss and life-changing repercussions from the virus.

The outsider status imposed on Laura and Oliver draws them together in their own secluded world where they fit in. In the modern day, those who feel ostracized from society can find a sense of belonging with like-minded friends and companions around the world through online groups, social media and, of course, dating apps. Then as now, we just want to connect with others – and sometimes, as THE ENCHANTED COTTAGE reminds me, we have to look past the surface and embrace the true self that lies just beneath.

The Enchanted Cottage Robert Young Dorothy McGuire WWII beauty body image disability TCM Turner Classic Movies Old hollywood Kim Luperi

Imitation of Lana Turner By Jessica Pickens

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Hollywood and its celebrities have influenced fashion and beauty trends since its inception. In 2017, Kim Kardashian popularized contouring face foundation, adding an extra step in routine application of makeup. Hairstylists across the United States in the 1990s mimicked Jennifer Aniston’s layered Friends haircut, and in the 1940s, Veronica Lake’s peekaboo bangs caused concerns about the dangers of women’s hairstyles in wartime factories.

One fashion and beauty influencer from the 1930s through the 1950s was one of Metro-Goldwyn-Mayer’s top stars: Lana Turner. From her early days as a pin-up girl to her peak of top glamour, Turner influenced beauty trends internationally. The trends of some of Turner’s contemporaries faded as times changed. Dorothy Lamour’s sarong went out of style and Lake’s one-eye-covered hairstyle was no longer in vogue as shorter haircuts of the 1950s became popular. But Turner evolved with her audiences.

In the late 1930s, audiences were introduced to her as a teen actress. By the 1940s, she was a bona fide star and a top World War II pin-up. In the 1950s, she became every inch the star — a sophisticated glamour queen. Throughout her career, her looks changed from red hair to long blonde tresses, to occasionally brunette. Swathed in Hollywood designs, furs and jewels, Turner influenced a number of trends throughout her film career.

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Every Inch the Star

It’s no wonder that Turner was influential on pop culture of the past and the present. Nicknamed “The headline girl,” Turner dominated the news – from her eight marriages and divorces and the murder of her boyfriend. She was also nicknamed “The Queen of the Night Clubs.” Whether it was Ciro’s, the Mocambo, the Cocoanut Grove or The Trocadero, Turner was a fixture of Hollywood nightlife. Her daughter and biographer Cheryl Crane wrote that when Turner made an entrance into a nightclub, bandleaders would start playing “You Stepped Out of a Dream” from ZIEGFELD GIRL (’41) and a hush would fall over the crowd.

The MGM commissary even named a dish after their top star: The Lanallure Salad. In addition to all of this, she proved to also be a great actress with performances in THE POSTMAN ALWAYS RINGS TWICE (‘46) and THE BAD AND THE BEAUTIFUL (‘52). Turner may have only stood 5’3”, but every inch of her was a star.

The Sweater Girl

Starting with her first movie, Turner was already setting trends and turning heads. In THEY WON’T FORGET (‘37), Turner’s character walks down the street in a form-fitting sweater — a sight audiences didn’t forget. This scene caused Lana Turner to be nicknamed “The Sweater Girl.” At 16 years old, Turner and her mother weren’t thrilled with the nickname. Turner was embarrassed and at one point said she was ashamed to face people. But it also influenced a trend of tight sweaters that emphasized the bust size.

“I believe it is no exaggeration to say that I have done more for the sweater than the sheep, the silkworm, or the Yale football team,” she said. The Sweater Girl trend continued throughout the 1940s and into the 1950s, with almost every major female star photographed in a tight sweater. In a December 16, 1949 article in The Pittsburgh Press, Harvey J. Scott is quoted as saying, “But our real problem is with bobbysoxers. They are the sweater girls — just kids showing off their curves and apparently liking it. What kind of mothers and wives are they going to be?”

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Global Influence

It wasn’t just American audiences who were fascinated with Turner’s glamour — her influence reached globally. Eva Perón (known as Evita) was the wife of Argentine President Juan Perón and she was First Lady of Argentina from 1946 until her death in 1952. Perón was known for her high-fashion wardrobe, which highlighted her rags-to-riches background. Perón was heavily influenced by Hollywood, especially when she wore her hair blonde.

During a visit to Argentina in February 1946, Lana Turner’s jewelry was seized by customs, which held her up for hours. “She learned that every piece was photographed to be copied later,” Crane wrote. While at a party during her visit, Turner felt Perón watching her the whole time. Perón was said to have copied fashions and hairstyles unique to Lana Turner. When Patti LuPone played Evita on Broadway, Turner met her backstage and shared this story with her as well, according to LuPone’s autobiography.

Another admirer was Spanish artist Salvador Dali. Turner was in Carmel at the same time as Dali, who she met over cocktails. Dali wanted to paint Turner but only wanted to paint the corners of her eyes. “You have the most beautiful corners of your eyes I have ever seen,” he said. Turner refused the offer for the painting.

Still Influential

Even though Lana Turner died in 1995, her legacy and influence lives on. In her 1990 song “Vogue,” Madonna lists Turner as one of the many other classic stars with style and grace. That same year, author James Ellroy worked Lana Turner into his neo-noir novel L.A. Confidential. Turner’s character is also mentioned in the 1997 film version and portrayed by Brenda Bakke. Singer Elizabeth Grant took on the stage name Lana Del Rey, influenced by Turner. The popular singer/songwriter was inspired by Turner’s first name and “Del Rey” came from the Ford Del Rey sedan. Releasing an album in March 2021, Del Rey’s style and moody musical sound is heavily influenced by vintage style and Los Angeles imagery.

Lana Turner Ziegfeld Girl fashion beauty old hollywood makeup classic stars TCM Turner Classic Movies Jessica Pickens