How Indian restaurants became Wall Street’s new celebration spots

My credentials as a culinary contrarian may have peaked three summers ago, when I argued that New York had better Indian restaurants than London. The piece provoked outrage in the British capital, where I was then in residence, and in India, the land of my birth. “Nothing you ever write, for the rest of your life, will annoy more people than that one,” declared an old schoolmate.
When I moved back home to the Big Apple soon afterwards, uncharitable friends asked if I had been chased out of London by cleaver-wielding locals. Inevitably, on my first visit back last month, some of these friends asked if I was now ready to recant.