Glamourous addition to Nicosia, Occhi

Have you noticed how jazz is gaining a foothold in Nicosia? There are at least five establishments offering customers the joy of jazz with a little food on the side. The latest of these has opened near the Milano traffic lights in central Nicosia.

We arrive on a Thursday night and are immediately greeted by a hostess who conveys us to a table for two which is beautifully furnished and situated in the middle level of diners. Looking around, one is struck by the size of the place, it appears to be vast, with a bar running the length of the floor service area, three levels of staging, each containing tables, with central dining stands on the ground floor. On closer examination one is aware that the illusion of space is created by a huge mirror attached to the wall behind the bar.

It is now 8:30 and the place is filling, but no sign of the band, however we do have a very attentive waitress. Menus appear, drinks are ordered, the companion settles for a dry Martini and as I am determined to have something from the sea I order a bottle of Petrides white, which is on offer at a price that could shame some of the greedier establishments.

This place is called Occhio, meaning Eyes, and is well named; there is something to catch the eye at every level. Behind the bar is a young man juggling glasses, the band is setting up, the lighting and décor are glitteringly modern and the staff whizz around to satisfy all demands. There is a stand in front of the band occupied by a family knocking back champagne cocktails oblivious to the volume emanating from the stage, and one realises that this establishment satisfies all age groups. Behind us is a table occupied by a party of 10 young women all dressed in black and testing the ability of the barman to produce a series of Sidecars, Negronis and Manhattans.

The menu is limited but interesting: appetizers include buffalo mozzarella; sautéd shrimps; and mushrooms stuffed with sun-dried tomatoes, pesto, and goat’s cheese, the companion selects the latter. My choice is from the five offerings on the salad list that all look good but I select the smoked duck breast with walnuts, ripe pears and lime dressing. Before the order arrives a basket of fresh hot rolls with butter is delivered and minutes later the food. Both dishes are perfect.

The main courses are divided between grills and three mussel dishes, with two pasta plates. Anyone offering mussels will get my attention, particularly on a Thursday when fresh deliveries arrive at Larnaca. It seems that all the mussels are steamed, dressed either with cream and herbs, or in vodka or ouzo. The companion chooses a fillet steak with grilled vegetables and we sit back, admire the band and wait. Disaster: the mussels are off. This can be quite a chilling phrase; however, the management is immediately on the table to explain; apparently the plane didn’t arrive. Hey-ho, let’s go for the seafood pasta.

The steak is called Angus and according to the companion, excellent, as is the pasta.

There are five sweets on offer but we have a coffee, finish the wine and sit back to enjoy the band; the guitarist is brilliant.

There are about 150 covers in our section with an additional 100 behind the end screen, so as this place gathers in popularity it will be heaving. It seems to be the perfect combination of cocktail bar and restaurant, which is most unusual in the capital and definitely worth another visit for a special night out. Incidentally, the band only appears on a Thursday.

VITAL STATISTICS

SPECIALITY Grills

WHERE 23 Alkeou Street, Engomi, Nicosia

WHEN Open for lunch and dinner daily. Jazz on Thursdays

CONTACT 22 255111, www.occhiolounge.com

PRICE From €50 for two