Ikat

The textiles excavated at Nahal 'Omer in Israel’s `Aravah Valley display a remarkable variety of materials, techniques and dyes, suggesting diverse geographical origins. Most significant are a number of cotton fragments decorated in the warp-ikat technique, which constitute the earliest documented occurrence of this type of textile anywhere in the world.
The one-dunam (0.1 ha) site is situated on the eastern bank of Nahal 'Omer, and includes remains of 17 rectangular units of dwelling and a mosque occupied during the Early Islamic Period (between 650 and 810 CE). The date of this material, provided by its archaeological context, has been confirmed by carbon-14 analysis.

This study focuses on the dye analysis of 26 ikat textiles present in the collection of the Arthur M. Sackler Gallery and originally collected by Dr. Guido Goldman with the aim to gain additional information about their provenance and dating. The investigation exploits the full potential of a multi-analytical approach, starting with a non-invasive survey of all the colors using fiber optic reflectance spectroscopy (FORS), which revealed the presence of indigo and insect-based red dyes. These data were used to select areas from which samples were taken and analyzed by high performance liquid chromatography diode array detector (HPLC–DAD). These results enabled most of the natural sources of dyes to be fully identified, including American cochineal (Dactylopius coccus), madder (probably Rubia tinctorum), lac (probably Kerria lacca), larkspur (Delphinum semibarbatum), pagoda tree flower buds (Sophora japonica), grape vine leaves (Vitis vinifera), indigo and tannins. Complex mixtures of...

This study focuses on the dye analysis of 26 ikat textiles present in the collection of the Arthur M. Sackler Gallery and originally collected by Dr. Guido Goldman with the aim to gain additional information about their provenance and dating. The investigation exploits the full potential of a multi-analytical approach, starting with a non-invasive survey of all the colors using fiber optic reflectance spectroscopy (FORS), which revealed the presence of indigo and insect-based red dyes. These data were used to select areas from which samples were taken and analyzed by high performance liquid chromatography diode array detector (HPLC–DAD). These results enabled most of the natural sources of dyes to be fully identified, including American cochineal (Dactylopius coccus), madder (probably Rubia tinctorum), lac (probably Kerria lacca), larkspur (Delphinum semibarbatum), pagoda tree flower buds (Sophora japonica), grape vine leaves (Vitis vinifera), indigo and tannins. Complex mixtures of...

Dokuma kumaşlar dokuma işlemi bittikten sonra veya dokuma işlemi sürecinde desenlendirilmektedirler. İkat dokuma işlemi başlamadan önce çözgü ve atkı ipliklerinin desenlendirilme tekniğidir. Yalnızca çözgü, atkı veya hem çözgü-hem atkı iplikleri dokuma işleminden önce hazırlık aşamasında boyanarak desenlendirilir. Boyamak istemediğimiz motif kenarları veya içleri desene göre iplik ile bağlanır veya mumlama tekniği ile kapatılıp açıkta kalan yerler boyanır. İkat kumaşların başlangıç tarihi ve çıkış bölgesi kesin olarak belli değildir. Ancak genel olarak boyama tekniği iplik ile sararak bağlayıp boyamaktır. Günümüzde bir zanaat (geleneksel el üretimi) olarak Özbekistan, Endonezya, Hindistan, Türkiye ve İran gibi ülkelerde üretimi sürdürülmektedir.Yapılan araştırmalar, denemeler ve sözlü konuşmalar doğrultusunda bu tez üç ana bölümden oluşmaktadır.Birinci bölümde, ikat sözcüğü tanımlanmaktadır. Tarihçesini araştırırken dünyadaki farklı müzelerden yararlanılmıştır. Yerinde araştırma yap...

This study focuses on the dye analysis of 26 ikat textiles present in the collection of the Arthur M. Sackler Gallery and originally collected by Dr. Guido Goldman with the aim to gain additional information about their provenance and dating. The investigation exploits the full potential of a multi-analytical approach, starting with a non-invasive survey of all the colors using fiber optic reflectance spectroscopy (FORS), which revealed the presence of indigo and insect-based red dyes. These data were used to select areas from which samples were taken and analyzed by high performance liquid chromatography diode array detector (HPLC-DAD). These results enabled most of the natural sources of dyes to be fully identified, including American cochineal (Dactylopius coccus), madder (probably Rubia tinctorum), lac (probably Kerria lacca), larkspur (Delphinum semibarbatum), pagoda tree flower buds (Sophora japonica), grape vine leaves (Vitis vinifera), indigo and tannins. Complex mixtures of dyes were present in most samples, as a result of both the ikat making process itself and traditional dyeing practices. Synthetic dyes were identified in 9 of the textiles. Samples were re-analyzed using HPLC-DAD coupled to mass spectrometry (HPLC-DAD-MS). Malachite green (basic green 4, C.I. 42000), fuchsine (basic violet 14, C.I. 42510), rhodamine B (basic violet 10, C.I. 45170) and methyl violet (basic violet 1, C.I. 42535) were identified, and a few other tentatively identified synthetic dyes (probably orange I, II and IV, rhodamine 6G, patent blue V and alizarin yellow GG) were detected. As the first synthesis of early synthetic dyes is well documented, their presence was used to refine the dating of these textiles. The contextualization of the results also appeared to support the stylistic assumption that more intricate and colorful designs with a higher level of complexity are dated earlier than simpler, larger and more graphic ones. The overall information acquired reveals a dynamic scenario and an interesting window into the dyers' experiments and adjustments to the economic and technological changes of the nineteenth century.