The 26 best Shoreditch restaurants
Hipster HQ Shoreditch is home to some of London's best restaurants, from Michelin-starred hotspots to spicy Thai street food and hush hush supper clubs. With plenty of new restaurants opening and a number of existing choices, it can be hard to keep up with the continuous flow of Shoreditch restaurants.
To help our beloved local Londoners and intrepid visitors find the best tables, we've compiled the definitive list of the best restaurants in Shoreditch for 2024. Whether you're looking to catch up with a friend over Basque-inspired dishes at Brat or bask in the sunlight in the garden of Rochelle Canteen, Shoreditch has a restaurant for every occasion.
So, without further ado, we present Condé Nast Traveller's pick of the best Shoreditch restaurants. And for more of the latest restaurant openings in Shoreditch and London, subscribe to our foodie newsletter.
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Rebecca Dickson1. Cycene
A homely experience
Cycene – meaning kitchen in Old English – is James and Christie Brown’s newest Blue Mountain School venture. The 15-cover restaurant is the cherry on top of an already culturally invigorating space, spanning two floors of a thoughtfully restored townhouse; previously home to Michelin-starred Mãos and including exhibition spaces, a ceramics archive and a library exploring the practice and process of artists.
As you enter, drinks and the first course are taken on the ground floor before being taken upstairs to the kitchen and main dining room. This transitional space, with its low light, wood-panelled walls, handmade ceramics and elegant sound system, is contemplative and peaceful, allowing you to shift from a busy city street and build anticipation for the experience ahead.
Head-chef Theo Clench (ex-Akoko and Portland) takes you through 10 courses seamlessly. The menu successfully extracts the optimum flavour from the simplest of ingredients, making for a familiar yet funky supper. Oysters (enjoyed in the kitchen) are slow-cooked for an hour and seared with hot charcoal; Meaty, hand-dived Isle of Skye scallops paired with sea truffle and schrenkii, and perfectly cooked turbot accompanied with bouncy Japanese milk bread to soak up the sauce. The main event is the succulent duck that is sourced and prepared with the utmost passion and consideration. We chose to accompany the meal with the half-and-half drinks pairing (half wine, half alcohol-free pairings), which adds a wonderful complexity to each dish without tipping over into needlessly boozy territory – we particularly liked the kombuchas. It's a thoughtful touch that sums up what the team at Cycene are doing – creating a space and experience that puts food centre stage, leaving you feeling utterly inspired. Amber Port
Address: Cycene, 9 Chance Street, London E2 7JB
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Marcus Brown2. Bistro Freddie
Candlelit feasts in East
This charming new restaurant brings an authentic bistro feel to the streets of Shoreditch that so many restaurants try (and fail) to accomplish. A compact space with crisp white tablecloths, cool stone floors, deep wood panelling and a perfectly warming candlelit glow – we might have just found the ultimate date night spot in town. Ok, we’re wooed by the setting, but what about the food? Dominic Hamdy, founder of the acclaimed Crispin in Spitalfields and Bar Crispin in Soho, dreamt this place up and brought in talented head chef Anna Søgaard to helm the kitchen. Bistro Freddie pays homage to the best produce from the British Isles. A quick snack on boiled eggs with anchovies before tearing through a pillowy flatbread topped with buttery snails and salty fried chicken skin is a good way to start. Opt for one of the classics from the all-French wine list – we were lucky enough to visit on the historic Beaujolais Nouveau day, so a juicy, cool sparkling red was our tipple of choice. The bavette steak is a perfectly pink delight with a soul-warming peppercorn sauce, although the plaice dish swimming in curry sauce is a little too off-piste for my palette. If you’re looking for a more interactive affair, book one of the 12 seats fringing the open kitchen counter to truly soak up the action. The staff are a testament to the friendly, relaxed vibe of the restaurant, happy to chat through the menu while they work and plate the dishes before our eyes. All in all, this is a great addition to the East London food scene, one that holds a candle to classic, unpretentious dining with the occasional surprise in store. Lucy Bruton
Address: Bistro Freddie, 74 Luke Street, Greater, London EC2A 4PY
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3. Llama Inn
East London dining with a view
A relative newcomer on the East London foodie map, Llama Inn’s roots were born in New York City. Having become a favourite on the Brooklyn dining scene since opening in 2015, cousin from across the pond, Shoreditch perhaps was the obvious next step for the contemporary Peruvian restaurant. Yet, unlike most noteworthy dining spots in the East London area, Llama Inn rises above the bustling streets to take to peaceful, higher plains. Situated on the top of the Hoxton, this is one of those ‘if you know, you know’ places offering a literal and figurative breath of fresh air from the thrumming city below, plus some of the most jaw-dropping views in town. The menu, too, shies away from the standard East London small plates that have so heavily dominated the restaurant landscape over recent years. Instead, expect a freewheeling twist on Peruvian cuisine. Buckle up for flavours that pack a punch – from the zesty dragon fruit ceviche that is the perfect heat level and tooth-sucking citrus sharpness to the meltiest pork shoulders with salsa criolla. Lest we forget the other string to Llama’s bow, the extensive menu of killer cocktails that, as with the general spirit of the restaurant, is playful and fun (did somebody order a ‘Llama del Rey’?), proving that you don’t need to take yourself too seriously to deliver the best quality tastes. Lucy Bruton
Address: Llama Inn at the Hoxton Shoreditch, 81 Great Eastern Street, Greater, London EC2A 3HU
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4. Bao Noodle Shop
In London’s competitive scene, restaurants come and go but the Bao chain has remained a fixture on the landscape. The Shoreditch branch of the Taiwanese bun specialists (branches in Soho, Borough Market, and Fitzrovia) is still going strong, bringing in faithful bao lovers for casual weeknight dinners or a casual date night by the open kitchen where chefs churn out classic crowd-pleasers like the peanut sprinkled pork bao and the beef noodle soup. Flavour-wise there’s something for everyone: the Pao Tsai (pickled fennel, radish and daikon) delivers a tangy hit; the vegan minced tofu dan dan noodles and numbing chilli sauce dial up the spiciness. It would be remiss not to try the crispy tripe in spring onion dip, or the moist Taiwanese fried chicken thighs shrouded in a light, crunchy batter and dipped in delicious chilli sauce. The fried ogleshield cheese rolls are gatecrashers to the party, adding a sharp and acidic departure. To neutralise the palate, we downed the smooth and mild signature BAO peanut milk before going hard with a Kavalan Sherry Oak Taiwanese whisky. And capping it all was the Horlicks ice cream with fried bao to guarantee a satisfying ending. Noo Saro-Wiwa
Address: Bao Noodle Shop, 1 Redchurch Street, London E1 6JJ
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@haydonperrior5. Casa do Frango
A sunny, Piri-Piri spiced spot branches out to east London
Casa do Frango translates to the chicken house, which vastly undersells what’s happening here. The menu kicks off with a round of sharing plates: chewy potato sourdough served warm with whipped butter that was topped with chunky flakes of salt, smoky grilled chorizo and Piri-Piri prawns that packed a garlicky punch. For the main course, there’s just one option – the house half chicken, brushed with Casa do Frango’s signature Piri Piri sauce, it’s charred on the outside and juicy in the middle, perfect for ripping into with a group. Load up on the sides especially the African rice, which came with crispy chicken skin and soft plantain. For pudding, make like the Portuguese and order the Pastel de Nata. The cocktail menu is as Portuguese-spiced as the food – a Sandeman white port and tonic is a seriously refreshing way to start, and comes loaded with mint and orange peel. These are crowd-pleasing plates and sunny drinks that will make you feel, if you squint hard enough, like you’re in Lisboa. Sarah James
Address: Casa Do Frango, 2 King John Court, EC2A 3EZ
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6. Padella
London’s best pasta comes to east London
This is Borough Market’s hit pasta restaurant’s second site (there’s still a permanent queue outside the first) – an opening that has excited the many customers previously turned off by long waiting times. This one, behind The Curtain hotel on Phipp Street is a scene of polished concrete – grab a stool at the counter and watch the chefs churning out the famous worm-like pici cacio e pepe and bright pappardelle with eight-hour beef-shin ragu. Also on the menu is tagliarini with Dorset crab, chilli and lemon and ’nduja and mascarpone cavatelli. The best bit? There won’t be any actual queues, just virtual ones – put your name down on the Walk In app ahead of time and turn up when your table is ready.
Address: Padella, 1 Phipp Street, Hackney, London EC2A 4PS
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7. Smoking Goat
Authentic South-East Asian flavours in Shoreditch
This is chef Ben Chapman's third Thai-spiced hotspot (his first incarnation of Smoking Goat on Denmark Street closed in January 2018; Kiln on Brewer Street is still going strong) and this is his biggest yet, with a charcoal-smoke-filled open kitchen and a cool, young crowd. Chapman isn't afraid of spice. A delicious duck laab has a searing heat that might make your cheeks sweat (a side order of the rich, lardo-fried rice helps cool things a little). The fish-sauce wings are a milder must-order (even if you don't normally like getting your fingers sticky), while wild mussels are steamed and accompanied by naam jim, a sweet chilli dipping sauce. There’s plenty of space in the bar where you can get acquainted with the Thai-inspired cocktails (think tequila mandarin and lime, bourbon and lemongrass, and rye and green chilli) while you wait for a table. Tabitha Joyce
Address: Smoking Goat, 64 Shoreditch High Street, London E1 6JJ
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8. St Leonards
Pared-back, primal cooking gets a refined edge
Bright and grown-up with a huge open wood fire for cooking, St Leonards is made for long, winding suppers with friends or family, where dishes are indulgent and the experience of eating is as important as the food itself. The concise, curated menu has the date printed on the top as a declaration of freshness and seasonality and everything is meant to be shared. From the small plates which arrive as soon as they’re ready from the ice bar to the hearty dishes cooked on the wood grill. We tried plump chunks of wonderfully fresh salmon and seabass served beneath thin slices of burnt kohlrabi (a wild, surprisingly sweet cabbage). Unusual touches appear in classic dishes: burrata is served with cocoa beans, razor clams come with peas and raw mackerel is peppered with wild dandelion, but it all works. And while the fish is good – really good, even – the mains are better. Lamb chops cooked over that open fire come with peach and pickled mustard, black bream with fennel and lemon, and, our pick, a 60-day-aged longhorn sirloin. For pudding, the rum baba with smoked pineapple is the standout, served with black treacle and anise ice cream and drowned in enough rum to act as the perfect nightcap. Sarah James
Address: St Leonards, 70 Leonard Street, London EC2A 4QX
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9. Lahpet
Brilliant Burmese in East London
From a stall on foodie-favourite Maltby Street to a pop-up under railway arches to a permanent bricks-and-mortar joint near buzzy Brick Lane, Lahpet has followed the perfect arc for a London restaurant start-up done good. Ease your way into the menu with Mandalay fritters, light and crispy parcels of kidney bean and ginger served with a tangy tamarind dip. The dish that diners declared the most authentic when we visited was the fiery ginger gin thohk salad. There are also traditional mains of thick and tangy mohinga (fish chowder) and Shan noodle with ground chicken and mustard greens (like a Burmese bolognese). But what you won't find back in the home country, Dan tells you, are dishes with a modern twist, such as hake masala with charred lime and lemongrass rösti, and slow-cooked lamb wrapped in those surprisingly tasty tea leaves with a rich sauce made for plate-licking. A bar lines one wall of the restaurant: opt for the Lahpet Sour with gin, Campari, orange, Earl Grey and strawberry jam. Go now for fresh, unusual flavours served up by a lovely, young-gun crew. Grainne McBride
Address: Lahpet, 58 Bethnal Green Road, London E1 6JW
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10. Dirty Bones
Filthy meat and a dirty soundtrack to a Saturday night
It's a wonder anyone finds Dirty Bones, camouflaged in the same Grade II-listed building as Beach Blanket Babylon (even Deliveroo drivers struggle). This place is about ridiculously calorific comfort food and good times, so order a bunch of dishes as a group for maximum effect: a whacking great sticky beef short rib, crispy fried chicken and waffles, baby back ribs and cheesey truffle fries are essential. Trust us, you won't want dessert. Still delicate from the night before? There is no more satisfying a Bloody Mary than the one here, served with a rim of sour cream Pringles. Go towards the end of the week for live music and an education in hip hop that spans its funk and soul roots to the Golden Age. Hazel Lubbock
Address: Dirty Bones, 1 Club Row, Shoreditch, London E1
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Paul Fuller11. Popolo
An Italian-Spanish-Moorish combo in the heart of Shoreditch
When a five-times-world-kickboxing-champ-turned-chef with a crooked nose and a cheeky smile recommends you try his favourite dish on the menu, you don't say no. Jon Lawson’s tiny Mediterranean-inspired, small-plates restaurant in Shoreditch has quickly became a favourite neighbourhood haunt. That dish Jon insists you try? A snack of labneh, chickpeas, chilli and olives. It's rich and smooth yet also crunchy, with a surprise briny hit when the deep-fried olive explodes in your mouth. And that's just for starters. Italian is the main focus of the menu – but with Spanish and Middle-Eastern influences - so pasta, handmade in-house, is a highlight. But the standout dish arrives last: burnt-honey panna cotta with strawberries has a perfect wobble and just a hint of thyme. Don't bother with the polite pretence of sharing. Grainne McBride
Address: Popolo, 26 Rivington Street, London EC2A 3DU
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Carol Sachs12. Smokestak
Sizzling-hot barbecue joint off Brick Lane
You may have seen the queues for Smokestak snaking through food markets cross the capital, and the smell of barbecued meaty gloriousness is hard to forget. The food truck opened its first restaurant just off Brick Lane a few years ago. It's a real passion project: chef-patron David Carter who worked at Gordon Ramsay at Claridge's before moving to Texas and buying a 4.5-tonne smoker to master the art of barbecuing. The smoke-fuelled menu has grown-up versions of old favourites, such as mouth-wateringly tender brisket buns with pickled red chilli and thick-cut pork ribs with pickled cucumber. Dishes include smoked girolles with beef-dripping toast; pastrami with sour cabbage and pickles; and hot-smoked salmon with rye and creamy horseradish. Vegetarians are not ignored: salt-baked beetroot with goat's cheese and hazelnuts, and a roasted aubergine with toasted cashew nuts and burnt honey' are equally impressive. Don't go straight to your table: the candle-lit cellar bar has the same drinks menu in a more moody setting. Alice Riley-Smith
Address: Smokestak, 35 Sclater Street, Shoreditch, London E1
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13. Sagardi
Like-Grandma-used-to-make Basque cooking on Curtain Road
This is the first European opening outside Spain of the hit Basque Country restaurant chain that has carved out a niche for its simple, traditional cooking. With huge sides of beef hanging behind the glass, the butcher shop is the first thing to ogle when you enter this Shoreditch outpost. Before cutting straight to the steak, it's worth scoping out the rest of the menu: plump portions of morcilla (black pudding), made with rice so it's lighter and more crumbly than its UK cousin, served on red piquillo peppers; a standout Spanish heirloom tomato salad, with four different types - yellow, pink, ruby and claret-coloured - doused in olive oil, white-wine vinegar and green chillies. The txuletón cut of cider house steak comes fire-grilled, juicy and pink, in neat slices beside the bone (take it home to make a meaty stock). To drink, order a generous G&T, mixed by the barman at your table, or choose a delicious Tempranillo from the huge wine cabinet that spans the back wall. This truly is a taste of Basque country in East London. Grainne McBride
Address: Sagardi, 95 Curtain Road, Shoreditch, London EC2
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14. Brat
The Basque-accented solo project from the trailblazing chef behind Kitty Fisher's
You’d be forgiven for wondering why you’ve never noticed Brat before. The discreet awning, blackboard menu and dark staircase belies the superb cooking that’s happening just upstairs. And to prove it, chef Tomos Parry, famously the man behind Mayfair celeb haunt Kitty Fisher’s, scored a Michelin star within six months of opening Brat. Named after the old English name for turbot (one of the must-order signature dishes), the menu is Basque-inspired and based around the glowing wood-fired oven and grills. Stand out dishes include the charred anchovy breads and the burnt cheesecake; pair it with a bottle of sherry and enjoy.
Jérôme Galland15. Gloria
A kitsch take on a traditional trattoria from the Big Mamma Group
The Big Mamma Group were already big news in Paris thanks to their highly Instagrammable restaurants – and Gloria on Great Eastern Street is London’s first taste of their fun and tongue-in-cheek take on a classic Italian trattoria. Everything is big and bold here: the menu itself is oversized and huge, the drinks come in chunky kitsch mugs and you will most likely have seen the towering lemon meringue pie on social media. But gimmicks aside, the vibe is perfect for a party and the food is worth the hype.
Address: Gloria, 54-56 Great Eastern Street EC2A 3QR
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@lateef.photography16. Daffodil Mulligan
A clever destination from Irish super chef Richard Corrigan
Richard Corrigan’s latest venture is far removed from his clubby, marble-edged restaurants in Piccadilly and Mayfair. The retro black-and-red Guinness tap on the bar is a nostalgic sight for expats, but this is no Gaelic gastropub. Curls of orange flames from the wood-fired oven are a backdrop to the chefs’ whites in the open kitchen, while huge scallop shells, gnarly oysters and chubby pink langoustines are lined up in the raw bar. Alongside the seafood-heavy starters, there are meaty options to savour, in particular the crubeens, a twist on traditional Irish pigs’ feet made into crunchy croquettes and presented with a pot of Coleman’s mustard. Mains are equally hearty: sirloin steak, slices of pink laid out in a cast-iron dish, with chimichurri béarnaise sauce and chunky chips; baked back of sole with shavings of chestnut, tart black grapes, cavolo nero and bright smiles of squash (many of the vegetables come from Corrigan’s farm in Ireland). Then have a little rest – because you really should try a pudding. This is a big-flavoured menu that deserves more than one hit (next time: whole baked lobster with kimchi). And the craic isn’t half bad either. Grainne McBride
Address: Daffodil Mulligan, 70-74 City Road, London EC1Y 2BJ
Book online
Yuki Sugiura17. The Clove Club
This open kitchen within Shoreditch Town Hall regularly makes the list of The World's 50 Best Restaurants. Opened in 2013 by Isaac McHale, the atmosphere is relaxed (particularly in the bar, which serves smaller plates) while the five-course, ever-changing menu has unexpectedly delightful combinations – think leek and oysters, caramel ice cream and barley – and roast beef that could revive the Empire.
Address: The Clove Club, Shoreditch Town Hall, 380 Old Street, London EC2
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18. Rochelle Canteen
In a neighbourhood increasingly overwhelmed by mammon – vertiginous developments, private members clubs, throbbing hotel bars – a last redoubt holds indomitably on to the Shoreditch values of the recent past: artiness, eccentricity, a wilful withdrawal from the mainstream melee. It is the Rochelle Canteen, a delightful little restaurant housed in an old bike shed on the glorious Boundary Estate, the site of London's first social housing. Effectively the staff canteen for local artists, the Rochelle isn't exactly easy to find but the destination justifies the journey. The space is English modern: understated and egalitarian, with Ercol everywhere. And the food fits right in. Owners Melanie Arnold and Margot Henderson's approach is direct and honest without fetishising its simplicity. The menu changes all the time but we had a sublimely seasoned steak tartare, and deep and rich fish stew with chickpeas and rouille.
Address: Rochelle Canteen, 16 Playground Gardens, London E2 7FA
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Xavier Girard Lachaine19. Lyle's
A tasting menu to remember
Chef James Lowe’s first solo venture is heavily inspired from his stints at Noma, St John Bread and Wine, and the Ten Bells supper club. Here Lowe dishes up four courses every evening with a couple of fun extras added in. Brill is served with a buttery whey foam and a couple of crushed Jersey Royals. Wild pea flowers are foraged in East London while Tom Adams (of Pitt Cue) supplies the pork – a Welsh Black collar might be paired with apple mustard and dandelion. There's an option of an additional cheese course from London's finest artisan dairy, Neal's Yard. And for pudding the baked cream with rhubarb literally sparkles – evoking childhood sweet-shop nostalgia. Those not keen on a set-menu should head to Lyle's at lunch when the menu is à la carte. Tabitha Joyce
Address: Lyle's, Tea Building, 56 Shoreditch High Street, London E1 6JJ
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Brian Dandridge20. Apothecary
Japanese small plates to pair with every occasion
This late-night Tokyo izakaya-inspired bar and restaurant serves punchy cocktails and delicious Asian plates to the sound of a live DJ playing every Friday and Saturday night. Apothecary East, found just off Great Eastern street, is a round-the-clock hotspot. A free-flowing bottomless brunch on the weekend draws in a party crowd, some pop by mid-week for a speedy sophisticated lunch, and in the evenings it’s a great place to bring the parents or book for a chilled-out supper with friends. Interiors are minimal and urban – exposed brick walls, dark green leather booths, tall palms, and a U-shaped bar which can be glimpsed from the street, drawing in those just looking for a late-night tipple.
Dishes are cooked in the open kitchen using traditional Japanese cooking methods. Sushi, bao buns, skewers cooked on a robata grill and Japanese snacks make up the made-to-share menu. To start, salted edamame is essential, and we suggest a roll or two of sushi for the table. From the hirata buns selection, we loved the smoked pork belly – succulent and oozing in gochujang and lime mayo. From the grill, we recommend going for the house selection – three skewers of chicken thigh, sweet potato and pork belly. As for sides, it’s hard to choose – miso glazed aubergine, prawn tempura, karaage fried chicken and smokey tender stem broccoli were stand-outs. Sophie Knight
Address: Apothecary East, 36 Charlotte Rd, London EC2A 3PG
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Caitlin Isola Caprio21. Boundary
A buzzy spot serving up clever cocktails and crowd-pleasing plates
Boundary is no newcomer to the East London dining scene. From its position on the corner of Boundary Street and Red Church Street, it’s long been a popular stop for giant pastries, brunch classics and deli snacks at Albion downstairs, or for East End views, sunshine drinks and Mediterranean fare on the rooftop. Nowadays, Albion is no more, replaced by a bustling bar and brasserie with an all-day array of dishes from morning avo on toast to late-night steak and chips. In the summertime, diners spill out onto the kerbside terrace, while in the colder months the atmosphere inside is cosy and welcoming. There are seven house cocktails named after the deadly sins – spicy margarita fans won’t be disappointed with a ‘Wrath’, while the ‘Sloth’ is a great twist on a classic negroni with a mellow hint of nutmeg and cherry. Warm, chewy bread arrives with whipped salty butter, followed by the freshest Devon scallops dressed in basil oil with anchovy and lemon. The main is yet another clever balance of butter and salt – flaky Cornish cod and sea vegetables covered in a beurre blanc – so good, we had to refrain from licking the plate. Put off the journey home a little longer with the chocolate mousse for pudding, or another sinful cocktail… Sarah Allard
Address: Boundary, 2-4 Boundary St, London E2 7DD
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Niall Clutton22. Bibo
The first UK outpost from starry Andalusian chef Dani García
When the Curtain hotel shuttered during lockdown and didn’t reopen, Harlem chef Marcus Samuelsson closed the London outpost of his chicken joint, Red Rooster, which was the hotel’s flagship restaurant. Now the hotel is back as the Mondrian, and the lower-level dining room has been taken over by Andalusian Dani García – the chef who announced in 2018 that he was closing his Marbella restaurant, just three weeks after it received the ultimate accolade of three Michelin stars. The menu starts, as you’d expect from any Spanish restaurant worthy of booking, with tapas. There are the classics – pan con tomate is delightfully stodgy, while smoky chorizo brioche comes topped with a delicate quail’s egg, and crumbly cod fritters are served with a punchy aioli. Raciones come next – in Spain, these are slightly bigger dishes that follow tapas, and here they include creamy grilled avocado with coriander pesto and pops of feta, and beef cecina (cured meat that’s been smoked or salted) with tart truffle vinaigrette and tangy payoyo cheese. Enormous paellas come for the table to share, topped with lobster, octopus or rib eye. But it’s the burger we recommend most – a thick, juicy patty is smothered in cheesy DG sauce which ripples down the side of the hefty bun. For pudding, our tip is the Basque cheesecake – topped with shaved Parmesan, it won’t please everyone, but is worth a try. Sarah James
Address: BiBo, Mondrian Shoreditch, 45 Curtain Road, London EC2A 3PT
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23. Manteca
On a wet and windy Tuesday evening in January, people are queuing round the block to get into Manteca. I can understand why. From the fried olive and sausage meat croquette appetiser to the post-dessert beef-fat fudge, the food at this inventive Italian restaurant is excellent. Every table is full, with diners also lining the bar facing the busy open kitchen, but the airy ground-floor space doesn’t feel crowded, and, despite the line outside, our meal isn’t rushed by the friendly and knowledgeable staff. A trip downstairs reveals more seats, including long tables for large groups, and a spectacular glass-walled “salumeria” hanging with a vast array of cured meats. Some of these end up in front of us: wafer-thin slices of delicately flavoured coppa di testa and robust prosciutto crudo. They arrive at the same time as the other small plates we ordered: puntarelle (a cousin of chicory) with a moreish anchovy dressing; zingy sea bass crudo; and the plumpest mussels I’ve ever seen, drenched in an nduja and parsley cream. Even a simple bowl of grilled cabbage – white, red and savoy – is a treat for the taste buds. These dishes set the bar high, but it’s hard not to judge an Italian restaurant on its pasta: Manteca’s is done to perfection. But the best is yet to come: an outstanding chocolate pavlova generously sprinkled with “Manteca 100s and 1000s” (caramelised hazelnuts, cocoa nibs and feuilletine). The menu is seasonal, so these delicacies come and go, but I’m confident that anything Manteca serves will be intriguing and delicious. Sarah Cohen
Address: Manteca, 49-51 Curtain Road, London EC2A 3PT
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OLA O. SMIT25. The Light Bar
A legendary East London building is brought back to life
Away from the madding crowd of Old Street mayhem is the newly revamped Light Bar – a former Victorian power station turned Noughties rave bar. The lofty site is filled with glazed brick and industrial windows across three floors and chef Johnnie Collins helms the open kitchen, putting the focus on bold seasonal sharing plates – modern British dishes with East Asian and Italian influence. Start with yakitori sticks such as Swaledale chicken thigh with preserved yuzu and tropea onion, soft monkfish with black sesame and pressed pork belly with red glaze before trying more substantial small plates. We opted for a plate of crab cappelletti with brown crab chilli butter, although everyone else at the restaurant seemed to go for the half roast chicken with curry sauce and chips. The cocktail list has been thoughtfully curated and inspired by events of the area's past: the signature Light Negroni uses suze, Amores mezcal, Cocchi Americano and orange bitters to honour the days of rave at the original Light Bar. There might be a lot going on with a mish-mash of flavours and styles but does it work? Yes. It shines bright in an area already beaming with top foodie hotspots. Katharine Sohn
Address: The Light Bar, 233 Shoreditch High Street, London E1 6PJ
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Rebecca Dickson26. Counter 71
Tucked away down a hidden backstreet in the heart of Shoreditch, Counter 71 is the brand-new restaurant with all the ingredients to become a heavy-hitter in the competitive East London food scene.
The stylish chef’s table set up caters to 17 covers a night, promising an intimate experience that feels surprisingly relaxed due to the cool-calm nature of the chefs at work in front of you. Captained by the talented Joe Laker, former Head Chef of Fenn, prepare to be steered on a 15-course journey through a tasting menu showcasing the best that British produce has to offer. From a langoustine broth to pop-in-the-mouth caviar, the most sumptuous steak tartare to a surprising fennel and custard tart, each course showcases Laker’s all-taste, no-frills artistry when it comes to food – washed down with a selection of (mostly) new world wines, as curated by Harry Cooper – formerly of Fenn, Anglo, and Picture.
Turning our attention beyond the plates in front of us, the restaurant has an earthy green marble countertop as the centrepiece that wraps around the spacious open kitchen. Shortly, the team will launch a separate space downstairs in the form of a casual, American-style bar named Lowcountry. Set to be the perfect spot to kick off your evening, or indeed to nurse a nightcap to assuage the inevitable post-food stupor.
All-in-all, Counter 71 is the place to visit for intricate flavours without the pretentiousness that often accompanies them. Opening this week, we’re excited to see what the future holds for this small-but-mighty new offering. Lucy Bruton
Address: 71 Nile Street, London N1 7RD
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