RIESLING
95 Hermann J. Wiemer 2022 Magdalena Vineyard Riesling (Seneca Lake). Still a spring chicken, this top Riesling—if drunk now—needs a few good swirls in the glass before releasing delicate orange citrus, jasmine and honeysuckle aromas from the clutch of more reductive ones. There’s richness and intensity on the dry, slippery palate, cut with citrusy acidity and a chalk dust minerality to the ultralong finish. This is a wine of complexity and class that should cellar until 2032 or longer. Cellar Selection. —C.P.
abv: 12.4% Price: $45
94 Ravines 2019 Argetsinger Vineyard Dry Riesling (Finger Lakes). From old vines on limestone soil, this is a wine of intensity and clarity that’s showing little signs of age. Honeyed pear, lemongrass, rock dust and lamp oil come through at first sniff. There’s lovely bright, mouthwatering acidity brocaded into the chalky, textural palate, with saline minerality and citrus pulsing to the long finish. This finessed and classy Riesling is true to its place. It should cellar gracefully for many more years. The bonus? It’s a total bargain. Cellar Selection. —C.P.
abv: 12.5% Price: $33
93 Fox Run 2022 Dry Riesling (Seneca Lake). Fox Run’s new winemaker Craig Hosbach is off to a galloping start with this delightful and very well-priced Riesling. With lovely depth of citrus, floral and chalk dust aromas, there’s concentration on the palate and harmony of flavor, texture and acidity. It’s bone-dry but with opulence tucked into its folds, allowing for both cellaring and food-friendliness. A top-notch example of Seneca Lake Riesling. Best Buy. —C.P.
abv: 12.6% Price: $18
Keeping cards close to its chest, this vintage of Wiemer’s home vineyard takes its time before offering up delicate yet ripe peach, melon and white floral aromas. They’re succeeded by a dry, racy palate that shows lovely balance and finesse, with a peach pit and citrus blossom zing amid a gently chalky, textural palate. Still a baby, this shows excellent cellaring. —C.P.
