August/September 2022

Wine Enthusiast Magazine

Let Wine Enthusiast Magazine be your guide to the “lifestyle of wine”.

Wine Enthusiast Magazine2 min read
Wine Enthusiast Masthead
Jacqueline Strum EDITOR & PUBLISHER EXECUTIVE EDITOR Lauren Buzzeo CREATIVE DIRECTOR Marco Turelli TASTING DIRECTOR Alexander Peartree MANAGING EDITOR, PRINT John Capone MANAGING EDITOR, DIGITAL Emily Saladino SENIOR EDITOR, DIGITAL Dylan Garret SENI
Wine Enthusiast Magazine1 min read
Out & About: Sips and Snaps Around the Globe
Associaton of African American Vintners was founded in 2002 by three Black winemakers to encourage people who looked like them to drink and make wine. Wine professionals came together in May to celebrate two decades of the organization's advocacy in
Wine Enthusiast Magazine2 min read
A Love Letter to Locality
Regionality is ever-present when it comes to wine, yet nowhere is it felt more acutely than in Italy, where culinary and wine styles take twists and turns around every part of the boot and its islands. During a recent trip to Verona for the annual Vi
Wine Enthusiast Magazine2 min read
Mellow ’Cellos
For Skip Tognetti, owner and founder of Seattle-based Letterpress Distilling, making arancello (an orange version of the liqueur) was a way to express his Italian heritage while pushing beyond limoncello. “Blood orange is almost ubiquitous in Sicily
Wine Enthusiast Magazine1 min read
Mass-a-Peel
Most people may be familiar with limoncello, southern Italy’s iconic, sunny lemon liqueur. The traditional recipe steeps lemon peels in a clear neutral spirit—often grappa or vodka—and sweetens it with sugar. But there’s so much more going on in this
Wine Enthusiast Magazine2 min read
How to Drink Like An Italian
After many years living in and traveling around Italy as an American, just trying to understand the wine, a few key—yet unanticipated—habits rubbed off on me. The biggest one: How to drink wine like an Italian. There is a certain ceremony and order t
Wine Enthusiast Magazine2 min read
Ancestral Beauty
Barossa Valley wine folks are no strangers to old vines. The South Australian wine region boasts some of the oldest continuously producing grapevines on the planet. The oldest of these gnarled, phylloxera-free relics date back to 1843. In 2009, Baros
Wine Enthusiast Magazine2 min read
Pairology: Freshly Ricotta
An unripened soft cheese, ricotta is endlessly versatile. It’s easy to spread, whip and incorporate into recipes. Ricotta is one of the world’s oldest known cheeses: Its earliest incarnations have ambiguous roots around the Mediterranean, where its p
Wine Enthusiast Magazine1 min readDiet & Nutrition
Cocktail of the Month: The Italian Dance
Specializing in drinks that channel Italy’s relaxed aperitivo culture, the name of this drink from Knoxville bar Brother Wolf translates from Italian as “The Dance.” It refers to “the dance a bartender must perform when shaking and serving a drink,”
Wine Enthusiast Magazine3 min read
Mendo-Italiano
Martha Barra steers with a steady hand the Barra of Mendocino winery, founded in 1995 with her husband, Charlie Barra, who died in 2019. Charlie was born in 1929 in Calpella from Piedmontese immigrants. He began pruning vines at age 10 and became an
Wine Enthusiast Magazine1 min read
Vintage Vantage
In 1935, when these 2,811 2.5-literwicker-wrapped bottles (each one is called a fiasco) of probably Chianti journeyed to Florence, something entirely different might have been meant by “well-balanced wine.” ■
Wine Enthusiast Magazine2 min read
Australia's Amber Wave
No wine demonstrates Australia’s flourishing artisanal winemaking scene better than skin-contact white wines. Commonly referred to as orange wines, the winemaking process leaves white grapes in contact with their skins anywhere from a few days to mon
Wine Enthusiast Magazine3 min read
Recipe of the Month: Tuesday Night Tonnato
Piedmont, where it’s called vitel tonnè, may stake its claim on this dish of thinly sliced, slow roasted veal (vitello), coated with a purée of white tuna, eggs and anchovy (the tonnato sauce), served slightly chilled. But while living in Italy, I di
Wine Enthusiast Magazine3 min read
Q&A Rum and Ruby
Joy Spence is one of those rare people who has worked not only in the same industry, but also at the same company, for 40 years. She joined Appleton Estate as chief chemist in 1982 and has been the master blender since 1997. During her career, chroni
Wine Enthusiast Magazine2 min read
Viewpoint: Drift Damage
The last two growing seasons in Texas’ High Plains AVA saw historically wretched weather that cut wine grape production by two-thirds, leaving the state’s wine business between a rock and a hard place. Now, legal claims that a chemical herbicide drif
Wine Enthusiast Magazine2 min readDiet & Nutrition
Understanding Ouzo
Although it has existed for centuries, ouzo reigns as one of the most enigmatic spirits. Blame it on the movies: fictitious weddings portraying plate-smashing with celebratory shots going down faster than the new in-laws’ judgmental opinions. Opa? Jo
Wine Enthusiast Magazine8 min read
Beyond Benchmark Bolgheri
Located on the Tuscan coast in the province of Livorno, the picture-perfect village of Bolgheri, dominated by its iconic cypress-lined avenue, now turns out some of Italy’s most celebrated wines. But it once seemed an unlikely place to birth Italy’s
Wine Enthusiast Magazine7 min read
Piedmont's Underdog Reds
Celebrated for structured, ageworthy reds made with Nebbiolo—think Barolo and Barbaresco—and for delicious and fun full-bodied Barberas, Piedmont also turns out fascinating reds from other little-known native grapes (some once nearly extinct) chock f
Wine Enthusiast Magazine7 min readDiet & Nutrition
Wine Enthusiast Forward 50 Restaurants 2022
There will always be a place for old-school formal dining and phonebook-size wine lists that tip the table when they arrive. But if we’ve been reminded of anything over the past couple of years, it’s that what we love most about our favorite restaura
Wine Enthusiast Magazine7 min read
Comfort In The Alps
Encompassing some of Europe’s highest vineyards, the alpine wine regions of northern Italy offer picturesque views with snowy peaks and charming villages. The wines produced in Trentino-Alto Adige, the tiny Valle d’Aosta and north of Milan in Lombard
Wine Enthusiast Magazine7 min read
Puglia Primer
Known for its white-sand beaches and seemingly endless sunny days, Puglia is the vacationland of Italy. Tourists from around the world flock in droves during peak summer season, basking in the region’s warmth, sipping on local fresh rosatos and enjoy
Wine Enthusiast Magazine9 min read
Paso Robles Appellation Education
Everything is big in Paso Robles—pickup trucks, cowboy hats, bold red blends—but especially the more than 610,000-acre grapegrowing appellation itself. At three times the size of Napa Valley, Paso reigned as the largest undivided appellation in Calif
Wine Enthusiast Magazine6 min read
Making A Meal Of It
In the early days of Eleven Madison Park, Augie Carton would regularly sit at the bar and order the five-spice duck, a signature dish from Chef Daniel Humm. Adorned with cumin, coriander, lavender, red Sichuan peppercorn and honey, it would be served
Wine Enthusiast Magazine5 min read
Three Dimensional
Chenin Blanc is a chameleon. Dry, sweet or sparkling, it excels in all three styles. And there are three distinct areas for high-quality Chenin Blanc in the Loire Valley, where it can make some of the finest examples that exist. In Touraine, lay the
Wine Enthusiast Magazine1 min read
Buying Guide August/september 2022
CHILL OUT WITH CHILE’S PINOT NOIR Light bodied Pinots for hot summer days and long summer nights. ALTO-ADIGE Refreshing white wines from the Alto Aldige with crisp Pinot Biancos, Pinot Grigios and more. CALIFORNIA’S CABERNET SAUVIGNON FInd top-scorin
Wine Enthusiast Magazine5 min read
Grüner Veltliner
Austrian wine has made its definitive statement with Grüner Veltliner. And the world of wine continues to beat the same drum like a broken record reminding everyone that Grüner is a refreshing white with aromas and flavors of citrus and white pepper.
Wine Enthusiast Magazine3 min read
The Wine Enthusiast Buying Guide
The Buying Guide includes ratings and reviews of new-release and selected older beverage alcohol products evaluated by Wine Enthusiast magazine’s editors and other qualified tasters. Regular contributors to our Buying Guide include Tasting Director A
Wine Enthusiast Magazine4 min read
Germany
96 St. Urbans-Hof 2020 Nik Weis Leiwener Laurentiuslay Riesling GG Gold Cap (Mosel). Sourced from the grey Devonian slate of the Laurentiuslay vineyard, this luminous, light-footed dry Riesling offers sun-kissed white peach and yellow-plum flavors et
Wine Enthusiast Magazine6 min read
Champagne
97 Bollinger 2014 La Grand Année Brut (Champagne). With the hallmark Bollinger richness that is derived from fermentation in wood and a high percentage of Pinot Noir in the blend, this grand wine is ripe, full of apple and spice flavors. It is drinka
Wine Enthusiast Magazine4 min read
Bordeaux
91 Château Faget 2019 Le Croisé (Saint-Estèphe). From a small estate at the heart of the Saint-Estèphe appellation, the wine is balanced and elegant. Its tannins are still young supporting the fine black currant fruits and acidity. The wine will be r
Wine Enthusiast Magazine4 min read
Loire Valley
93 Domaine Ménard-Gaborit 2018 Le Pallet (Muscadet Sèvre et Maine). From the Muscadet cru village of Le Pallet, the wine is ripe, richly textured and just ready to drink. It has an extra concentration and density from the long aging on the lees. Chem
Wine Enthusiast Magazine4 min read
Provence
94 Château Vannières 2019 Bandol. Almost entirely Mourvèdre, the wine is beautifully perfumed rich in spice and with black fruits that have a seriously structured character. With its density and its firm tannins, the wine should develop further. Drin
Wine Enthusiast Magazine3 min read
Rhône Valley
92 Domaine Maby 2021 Prima Donna Rosé (Tavel). Rich, penetrating layers of strawberry and red-cherry candy extend from nose to finish in this full-bodied, boldly structured rosé. Powerfully fruity yet anchored by a deep undertow of rocky, smoky miner
Wine Enthusiast Magazine8 min read
Portugal
94 Herdade da Malhadinha Nova 2019 Malhadinha (Alentejano). This is the top estate wine from the Soares family. It is an impressive wine showing rich tannins and powerful dark fruits. It is a young wine, one with a fine future as the black plum flavo
Wine Enthusiast Magazine7 min read
Spain
91 Adegas Tollodouro 2020 Pontellón Albariño (Rías Baixas). Aromas of green apple, lemon zest and jasmine set the stage for flavors of lemon, Valencia orange, orange blossom and salted almond. It is bright on the palate from first sip to the grapefru
Wine Enthusiast Magazine3 min read
Tuscany
93 Campo alle Comete 2019 Stupore (Bolgheri). Aromas of forest floor, leather, ripe black-skinned berry and fragrant blue flower mingle with whiffs of sea breeze. The polished, savory palate doles out ripe black cherry, black berry, truffle, mocha an
Wine Enthusiast Magazine5 min read
New Zealand
92 Astrolabe 2021 Sauvignon Blanc (Marlborough). Heady notes of lemon and lime zest, passionfruit, snow pea and tomato stem lead on this crunchy and highly refreshing wine from a consistently delicious label in an excellent vintage. It slips and slid
Wine Enthusiast Magazine7 min read
Piedmont
97 Castello di Neive 2019 Albesani Santo Stefano (Barbaresco). For full review see page 107. Winebow Imports. Cellar Selection. abv: 14.5% Price: $NA 97 Francesco Versio 2019 Barbaresco. Truffle, toasted hazelnut and berry aromas come together along
Wine Enthusiast Magazine4 min read
Australia
97 House of Arras 2006 Late Disgorged Ed Carr (Tasmania). With 14 years on lees, this now 16-year-old wine, from one of the world’s most renowned sparkling regions and celebrated winemakers (Ed Carr), stands its own again the most premium of Champagn
Wine Enthusiast Magazine6 min read
Argentina
94 Colomé 2017 Altura Máxima Malbec (Salta). Black olive, plum, herbs and salt shape the nose of this high-altitude red. The palate shows honest fruit flavors with almost no trace of oak masking the varietal expression. This is a 100% Malbec with a s
Wine Enthusiast Magazine5 min read
Chile
90 Morandé 2020 Gran Reserva Sauvignon Blanc (Casablanca Valley). White flowers, apricot, and lemon shape the nose. On the palate, are ripe lemon, linden tea and stone-fruit flavors. Aged in foudres, the contact with oak added complexity to the wine
Wine Enthusiast Magazine13 min read
California
97 Chanin 2020 Zotovich Vineyard Chardonnay (Sta. Rita Hills). Expertly subtle yet intoxicatingly addictive aromas of lemon peel, crisp nectarine and honeysuckle show on the nose of this single-vineyard showcase. The grip is insanely chalky and gripp
Wine Enthusiast Magazine9 min read
Washington
94 Devison 2021 Evergreen Vineyard Sauvignon Blanc (Columbia Valley). Devison is charting an entirely new path for Sauvignon Blanc in Washington. Half of this fruit was skin soaked for 40 hours and the other half went direct to press. All were aged i
Wine Enthusiast Magazine7 min read
Oregon
94 Lemelson 2018 Chestnut Hill Vineyard Pinot Noir (Chehalem Mountains). The year 2018 was a vintage that provided many fuller feeling expressions of Pinot in Willamette Valley. This wine shows that but also walks the tightrope of intensity and balan
Wine Enthusiast Magazine6 min read
New York
93 Hermann J. Wiemer 2020 HJW Vineyard Riesling (Seneca Lake). Coiled aromas of yuzu, limestone and white blossoms give this dry Riesling an air of pent-up energy on a nose that’s waiting to explode. The medium-bodied palate delivers tense flavors of
Wine Enthusiast Magazine5 min read
American IPA
Looking back over the rise of craft beer in America over the last 40 years the style most responsible for interest and growth is the India pale ale. While much of the focus these days is the hazy double dry hopped versions that rely on juicy flavors,
Wine Enthusiast Magazine3 min read
Colorado
91 The Winery At Holy Cross Abbey 2019 Cabernet Sauvignon (Palisade). Scents of cranberry and raspberry are joined by black pepper and shishito on the nose. On the palate, cranberry and lingonberry provide a solid fresh fruit base with tart, flirty a
Wine Enthusiast Magazine4 min read
New Rums
Each year, when we ask experts to predict what might lie ahead, someone inevitably suggests: This will be rum’s year. Looking at the latest rum releases from the past 24 months, it’s clear there’s no shortage of excellent bottles to tempt. Look to Ap
Wine Enthusiast Magazine2 min read
Last Drop: Budbreak and Breakthroughs
It’s common in relationships to not fully understand what your partner’s job entails. We’re all busy trying to perfect our own job skills. There isn’t much time left in the day to decipher your SO’s day-to-day job description—or even their formal tit

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