Delhi, Agra & Jaipur (Eyewitness Travel Guides) PDF

EYEWITNESS TRAVEL
DELHI
AGRA & JAIPUR
EYEWITNESS TRAVEL
DELHI
AGRA & JAIPUR
Main Contributors Anuradha Chaturvedi
Dharmendar Kanwar & Ranjana Sengupta
Project Editor Aruna Ghose
Art Editor Alpana Khare
Editors Ira Pande, Madhulita Mohapatra, Razia Grover
Designers Anand Naorem, Benu Joshi, Mugdha Sethi
Cartography Uma Bhattacharya
Picture Editor Radhika Singh
Main Contributors
Anuradha Chaturvedi, Dharmendar Kanwar, Partho Datta,
Premola Ghose, Ranjana Sengupta, Subhadra Sengupta
Photographers A gathering at a village square in Rajasthan

Aditya Patankar, Amit Pashricha, Dinesh Khanna,
Fredrick & Laurence Arvidsson, Ram Rahman
Illustrators
Contents
Ajay Sethi, Ampersand, Ashok Sukumaran, Avinash,
How to Use This Guide 6
Dipankar Bhattacharya, Gautam Trivedi, Mark Warner
Printed and bound in China
First Published in Great Britain in 2000 by

Dorling Kindersley Limited, 80 Strand, London WC2R 0RL
15 16 17 18 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1
Reprinted with revisions 2001, 2003, 2007, 2010, 2013, 2015

Copyright 2000, 2015 © Dorling Kindersley Limited, London
A Penguin Random House Company
All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be

reproduced, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted in
any form or by any means, electronic, mechanical, photocopying,
recording or otherwise without the prior written permission Ganesha, the elephant-headed
of the copyright owner.
god of wisdom
A CIP catalogue record is available from the British Library.
ISBN 978-0-24100-699-3
Introducing
Floors are referred to throughout in
accordance with British usage; ie the “first floor”
Delhi, Agra
is the floor above ground level. & Jaipur
Great Days in Delhi,
Agra & Jaipur 10
Putting Delhi, Agra &

Jaipur on the Map 16
The information in this DK Eyewitness Travel Guide is checked regularly.
Every effort has been made to ensure that this book is as up-to-date as possible A Portrait of Delhi,
at the time of going to press. Some details, however, such as telephone numbers, Agra & Jaipur 20
opening hours, prices, gallery hanging arrangements and travel information are
liable to change. The publishers cannot accept responsibility for any consequences
arising from the use of this book, nor for any material on third party websites, and Delhi, Agra & Jaipur
cannot guarantee that any website address in this book will be a suitable source of
travel information. We value the views and suggestions of our readers very highly.
Through the Year 42
Please write to: Publisher, DK Eyewitness Travel Guides, Dorling Kindersley,
80 Strand, London, WC2R 0RL, UK, or email: [email protected]. The History of Delhi,
Agra & Jaipur 46
Front cover main image: Hawa Mahal, or the “Palace of Winds”, in Jaipur
Camels crossing the river by the Taj Mahal, Agra
Beyond Delhi
Area by Area
Beyond Delhi
at a Glance 138
North of Delhi 140
Agra and Around 150

A contemporary inlaid-marble platter
Jaipur and Environs 182
Entertainment 264
Sports and Outdoor

Activities 266
Delhi Area
by Area Survival Guide
Delhi at a Glance 68 Practical Information 272
New Delhi 70 Embroidered slippers

Travel Information 286
Nizamuddin to General Index 296

Purana Qila 84 Travellers’ Needs
Where to Stay 232 Acknowledgments 308
Old Delhi 92
Further Afield 102 Where to Eat Further Reading

and Drink 242 & Glossary 310
Day Trips from Delhi 120
Shops and Markets 258 Phrase Book 312
Shopping in Delhi 122
Entertainment
in Delhi 124
Delhi Street Finder 126
Portrait of Bani Thani,

a Kishangarh miniature The Taj Mahal, Agra
6 HOW TO USE THIS GUIDE
HOW TO USE THIS GUIDE

This guide helps you to get the most maps, photographs and illustrations.
from your visit to the region. It provides Features cover topics from music and
both detailed practical information and dance to food and festivals. Restaurant
expert recommendations. Introducing and hotel recommendations can be found
Delhi, Agra and Jaipur maps the region in Travellers’ Needs. The Survival Guide has
and sets it in its historical and cultural tips on everything from transport to using
context. The three regional sections, plus the telephone, and the Glossary explains
Delhi, describe important sights, using Indian terms and words.
Delhi DELHI AREA BY AREA 71

All pages relating to Delhi have
NEW DELHI red thumb tabs.
The city is divided into areas, each The British built New Delhi, between 1911
and 1931, to be the showcase of the Empire.
processional avenue leading to India
Gate, is now Rajpath, where every
with its own chapter. A last chapter, On Independence, this grand imperial capital
became the official and bureaucratic centre
of the new Indian nation. Today, the former
26 January the Republic Day Parade
is held (see p75). The National Museum
is on Janpath. To the north are Connaught
Viceroy’s House is the president’s residence, Place, the Birla Mandir and the cultural
Further Afield, covers peripheral and ministers and civil servants live nearby in
spacious bungalows along the tree-lined
complex at Mandi House. Despite strict
security restrictions, New Delhi is the
avenues. Kingsway, the east-west city’s most impressive area.
Sights at a Glance lists the chapter’s
sights. All sights are numbered Sights at a Glance
Historic Buildings, Streets and Plazas Gardens Restaurants pp250–52 sights by category: Mosques and
1 Rashtrapati Bhavan t Lodi Gardens 1 Big Chill
and plotted on the chapter’s area 2 Vijay Chowk

4 Rajpath
6 India Gate
Shops and Markets
0 Connaught Place
y Khan Market
2
3
4
5
Daniell’s Tavern
Dhaba
Elan
Khan Chacha
Tombs, Museums and Galleries,
Churches and Temples
map. Each sight is presented 3 Cathedral Church of Redemption

q Lakshmi Narayan Mandir
Theatres and Art Galleries
8 Mandi House Complex
6
7
8
Kwality
Latitude 28
Lodi Garden Restaurant
Streets and Gardens, Historic Sites,
Museums 9 Pind Balluchi
5 National Museum 10 Saravana Bhavan
Monuments and Markets.
in numerical order within the 7 National Gallery of Modern Art
e Nehru Memorial Museum and Library
r Gandhi Smriti
11
12
13
14
Sevilla
Smokehouse Bar & Grill
Spice Route
The Shim Tur
Monuments
chapter, making it easy to locate.

15 Triveni Tea Terrace
9 Ugrasen’s Baoli
CHELMSF O R D RD
New
Delhi 16 Varq
w Jantar Mantar PA R ROAD
NC BAZAA 17 Veda
H KUMAIN
1 Area Map
18 Wasabi
IA
N
G
M AR
RK Ashram RO
Marg AD
CHO
IRA
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Shivaji DE
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BHAI VIR SINGH MG

M AN
Bridge EN
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(IN
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SHAHEED BHAGAT DA
For easy reference, sights

MG
SINGH MARG Rajiv Chowk YA

CON
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C U BA
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Shivaji HY
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MG
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ISH
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are numbered and located

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Bridge
LSTOY MG
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Janpath
J A N PAT H
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0 metres 750 TO RO AH
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NORTH AVE
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on a map. City centre sights

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750 RO
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0 yards
AD AS
A locator map shows where

RD HO
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C
ISI K
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CHURCH ROAD DR R AJE N DR A

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MUGHAL P RAS A D RO A D NA
Central Secretariat RA
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you are in relation to other R A J PAT H
are also marked on the

SINGH RD
M AN
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SOUTH AVENUE
Udhyog
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DALHOUSIE RD MAULANA AZAD RD

AD
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M OT
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areas of the city centre.

N
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Delhi Street Finder map

RG RAJA
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HR 16 18
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RAJ A JI MG
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(pages 126–35).
A IN
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Race AN
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Course RO AM
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See also Street Finder LO D I
maps 1, 2, 5
The memorial at India Gate, bedecked with flowers on Navy Day For keys to symbols see back flap
72 DELHI AREA BY AREA NEW DELHI 73
Street-by-Street: Around Vijay Chowk

OLD DELHI
The barren, treeless grounds around Raisina Hill were selected
as the site of the new capital city. Now a well-guarded verdant NEW DELHI
area, it houses India’s president, ministers and officials, as well NIZA
MUDDIN
as its Parliament and ministries. Imperial hierarchical conventions, TO
PURANA
both spatial and political, laid down by the British are still followed, QILA
so that even today, Indian ministers and officials live in spacious

Locator Map
bungalows on broad tree-shaded avenues around Rashtrapati See Street Finder map 4
Bhavan where no high-rise buildings are allowed. From Vijay 2 . Vijay Chowk
Chowk, Lutyens’s grand central vista lies ahead – large trees A pair of red sandstone Sunehri Bagh
and fountains line the lawns of Rajpath up to India Gate, obelisk-shaped fountains This gently curving street leads to a picturesque
flank this forecourt that roundabout with a simple 18th-century mosque
Stars indicate the sights that no visitor the Canopy and the National Stadium at the far end.
Sansad Bhavan is
overlooks a grand vista. built by a pir called Sayyid Sahib. Shady trees are
a standard feature of all Lutyens’s avenues.
Roundabout
Beautifully
landscaped road
intersections are a
should miss. North Block has
an imposing
also known as
Parliament House.
Vayu Bhavan
Udyog
Bhavan
haven for workers
during lunch.
Central Hall India Gate
which is open
to the public.
2 Street-by-Street Map MOTILAL NEHRU MARG
D
D
A
A
This gives a bird’s-eye O

O
R
R
S
IE U
J
S N
A
U H
R
O E
A
The Iron Gates H R
view of the key areas

M
L I
B
A
Copied from a pair A A

D
K
GH
Lutyens saw in ROA
D
Chiswick, England,
these are held by
in each chapter. highly ornamental

sandstone gateposts.
D
TH
Rashtrapati Bhavan lies KR

ISH
O
YA
to the west of them. NA

R
ME
G
IX
NO
N M
A
AR
RA
G
P
J
U
D
M
Edwin Landseer Lutyens

A
RG
Architect Edwin Landseer Lutyens

(1869–1944), President of the Royal
Academy from 1938 to 1944, was
commissioned to design India’s Statue of Kamaraj
74 DELHI AREA BY AREA new capital N in E1911.
W D HI 75
E LHerbert
With Kumarasami Kamaraj
Baker, his colleague, it took him was Congress Party
20 years to build the city in a President (1963–7).
unique style that combined
2 Vijay Chowk 3 Cathedral Church Building the Secretariats on
for the Arts (IGNCA), with an Western Hyderabad
Classicism House where official
with Indian
Map 4 F2. N Block: Open 9am–6pm of the Redemption rocky scrubland
archive of rare manuscripts. decorative motifs. Theare
state banquets result is and
held,
Mon–Fri. Sansad Bhavan: Open 11am– It holds many national and classical in form
Jaipur, and English
Bikaner, in
Patiala and 0 metres 25
1 Church Rd, North Avenue. Map 4 E1. manner withexhibitions
Neo-Mughal gardens Baroda
and grand vistas meeting at
5pm Tue–Sat. Visit is subject to international Houses.
Tel (011) 2309 4229. Open 8am–noon; verdant roundabouts. Delayed by World War I and quarrels 0 yards 25
and symposia.
Parliament not being in session. 4–6pm daily. between Baker and Lutyens, spiralling costs met by Indian . South Block . Bungalow-lined Avenues
The area where Rajpath meets Henry Alexander Medd
revenues led Mahatma Gandhi to term 7 National Gallery
it a “white elephant”. The Prime Minister’s Office and the Strict building bylaws preserve the original
Key
Ironically, the British lived here for only 16 years. Defence Ministry are located within architecture of the colonial bungalows in
Raisina Hill, known as Vijay (1892–1977), the architect of 5 National Museum of Modern Art this block, a high security zone. the tree-lined avenues of this area. Suggested route
Chowk, was planned as a this magnificent church, was See pp76–9. Jaipur House, Dr Zakir Hussain
commanding approach to inspired by Palladio’s church of Marg, near India Gate. Map 5 C2.
the Viceroy’s House. This is II Redentore in Venice, from which Tel (011) 2338 4640/2835.
where the unforgettable it also derives its name. Consecrated Open 10am–5pm Tue–Sun.
“Beating Retreat” ceremony in 1931, the cathedral formed an 6 India Gate Closed Mon & public hols. & 8
takes place each year on 29 integral element of the plan for = m ∑ ngmaindia.gov.in
Map 5 B2.
January (see p45). the imperial capital complex, and
Rising impressively from was built as the main Anglican At the eastern end of Rajpath, Jaipur House, the former
Rashtrapati Bhavan seen through Lutyens’s ornate iron gates
1 Rashtrapati rises 55 m (180 ft). Within are

the levelled top of Raisina Hill
are the two virtually identical
Secretariat buildings, designed
church for senior British officials in
New Delhi. Today, it is the diocese
of the Bishop of the Church of
the 9-m (30-ft) wide India Gate
was built to commemorate
the Indian and British
residence of the Jaipur maharajas,
is one of India’s largest
museums of modern
A suggested route for a walk
Bhavan courtyards, banqueting halls, state by Herbert Baker and known Northern India. Among the many soldiers who died in art. Its vast collection
Map 4 E2. Tel (011) 2301 5321.

Open 9am–4pm Fri–Sun.
apartments and private living
quarters. The pièce de résistance
is the Durbar Hall, where all
as the North and South Blocks.
These long classical edifices
house the Home and Finance
memorial tablets inside the
church, there is one in honour
of its architect.
World War I and
those who fell in
battle in the North-
includes graphics,
paintings and
sculptures dating
is shown in red.
Closed Mon–Thu. & 8 phone
important Indian state and ministries and the Ministry of West Frontier from the mid-19th
or book online to visit. ∑ president
ceremonial occasions are held. Foreign Affairs. The stately Province and the century to the
ofindia.nic.in. Change of Guard
Ceremony: Tel (011) 2301 3287.
Situated beneath the dome and Central Hall of the North Block Third Afghan War. present day. The
Apr–Oct: 8am; Nov–Mar: 10am forming the centre-piece of the (to the left, if facing Vijay An eternal flame galleries display
Sat only. Kitchen Museum: “H”-shaped building, this circular Chowk) is open to the public. burns in memory of works of British
Tel (011) 2301 2960. Open As for hall was originally the Throne Sited to the north of Vijay unknown soldiers landscape painters
tour. Mughal Gardens: Open Feb– Room and contains the two gold Chowk, Baker’s circular Sansad who died in the such as the Daniells,
Mar. Closed Mon. and crimson thrones Lutyens Bhavan (Parliament House) was 1971 Indo-Pakistan India Gate and Indian artists
designed for the vice-roy and a later addition following the war. Facing India such as the Tagores,
Designed by Edwin Lutyens vicereine. The Kitchen Museum Montagu-Chelmsford Reforms Gate is the sandstone canopy Jamini Roy, Amrita Shergill and
(see p72) to be the focal point showcases items used to cook, of 1919, to house the Legislative where King George V’s statue Raja Ravi Varma. Works of
of New Delhi during British serve and dine at the Rashtrapati Assembly. The Constitution of was installed after his death in contemporary artists such as
3 Detailed information
rule, the house built for the Bhavan, through the pre- and India was drafted here in the 1936. The statue is now at MF Husain, Ram Kumar, KG
viceroy, which is today the post-Independence periods. early days of Independence. Coronation Park (see p107). Subramanyam and Anjolie Ela
President of India’s official To the west of the grounds Today, both the Rajya Sabha Around India Gate are the Menon are also seen here.
residence, stands at the are the formal Mughal (Upper House) and the Lok stately homes of erstwhile Reproductions of paintings
crest of Raisina Hill. This Jaipur Column, Gardens with water-
20th-century architectural Rashtrapati Bhavan courses and fountains
masterpiece covers an built on three levels,
Sabha (House of the People)
meet here when Parliament
is in session. The Lok Sabha’s
The Neo-Classical Cathedral Church of the
Redemption
Indian princes, including
Republic Day Parade

are sold at the gallery shop.
The sights in Delhi are
area of 4.5 acres (2 ha). The cupola ending with Lutyens’ often boisterous debates take
of its copper and sandstone dome “butterfly garden”. place in the Central Hall.
4 Rajpath
Map 5 A2. National Archives:
Indians love parades and ever since 1950, when India became
a republic, the Republic Day parade on 26 January has always
attracted large crowds despite the often chilly weather. The
described individually.
Useful addresses, telephone
Tel (011) 2338 4797. Open 9:30am– president, the prime
6:30pm Mon–Sat. Closed Sun & minister and other
public hols. Indira Gandhi National dignitaries watch
Centre for the Arts: Tel (011) 2338 as soldiers in dashing
numbers, opening hours and

8105. Open 9:30am–5:30pm Mon–Fri. uniforms from the many
regiments and
This 3-km- (2-mile-) long squadrons of the Army,
avenue, used for parades and Navy and Air Force
march smartly past.
lined with canals and fountains
along its lovely lawns, is very
popular with Delhi residents
Brightly dressed
schoolchildren, civil
defence services Republic Day Parade
other practical information
on steamy summer evenings. personnel and others
The National Archives,
situated at the intersection
with Janpath, houses a major
quick-step down the grand vistas of Rajpath to the rousing
percussion of military bands. Most popular are the Camel
Corps and the inventive floats representing each state of
are also provided. The key
collection of state records and the country. A ceremonial fly-past by the Indian Air Force
Sansad Bhavan (Parliament House), where the Constitution of India was drafted
private papers. Opposite is the
Indira Gandhi National Centre
signals the end of the parade.
to the symbols used is on
the back flap of the book.
HOW TO USE THIS GUIDE 7
BEYOND DELHI AREA BY AREA 141
NORTH OF DELHI
Lying between the Ganges and Yamuna rivers, this agriculturally
1 Introduction
prosperous region is held to be the cradle of Indian civilization.
Beyond Delhi
Its historical and mythological past extends from the ancient brick
cities of the Indus Valley and the early Aryan settlements to the
later Muslim and European forts and cities. Each culture has
enriched the region and contributed to its remarkable diversity. The landscape, history
This vast plain, from about the second To most Indians, however, this is the sacred and character of each Area by Area
millennium on, has remained one of territory of the Mahabharata (see p145), where
India’s most densely populated areas.
As time went on, ancient fortified city
states developed into medieval walled
gods and epic heroes fought a legendary
battle at Kurukshetra and where Krishna
(see pp166–7) expounded the famous
region is outlined here, Apart from Delhi, the region has
towns which contained prosperous
agricultural lands and flourishing markets.
Many of these are today important
Bhagavad Gita. The development of
ideas that led to the later compilation
of the Vedas and Upanishads, the
showing how the area been divided into three areas,
industrial centres. Since the area has had
such a diverse history, its architectural
remains are an eclectic mixture of styles
bedrock of Hindu philosophy and
ethics, are believed to have taken
place here as well. Panipat, the site
has developed over the each of which has a separate
so that ancient brick structures, Mughal
monuments and colonial churches rub
of three decisive battles that changed
the history of North India, lies close by. centuries and what it has
shoulders with modern factories. To the northeast and northwest lie the
chapter. The most interesting
To the north are the pilgrim towns of
Haridwar and Rishikesh, where the Ganges,
now forgotten towns of Narnaul, Hansi and
Sardhana, associated with the medieval to offer to the visitor today.
India’s most holy river, enters the plains.
With the splendid backdrop of the Shivalik
Hills, this area, rich in flora and fauna, offers
Tughlaq and Sur dynasties, and European
freebooters and nabobs such as Skinner,
Reinhardt and his wife, Begum Samroo.
cities, towns and villages,
exciting places for adventure sports such
as white-water rafting.
Meerut, the epicentre of the Indian Mutiny,
is now a busy market and trading centre. and other places to visit are
numbered on a Regional Map.
184 BEYOND DELHI AREA BY AREA JAIPUR AND ENVIRONS 185
Exploring Jaipur and Environs
2 Regional Map
Getting Around
Jaipur’s airport is at Sanganer (see p286), and two
This historically rich territory is centred around the old superfast trains (the Pink City Express and Shatabdi
capital of Amber and the “newer” city of Jaipur with its Express) connect the city to Delhi. Air-conditioned luxury
palace, observatory, temples and bazaars and impressive
modern buildings. To Jaipur’s north are the attractive
Samode palace and Shekhawati areas, while to its
coaches from Delhi to Jaipur are run by Rajasthan Tourism
(see p291). The rest of the region is best explored by road.
The Palace on Wheels and Royal Rajasthan on Wheels
This shows the road network
(see p289) offer luxury rail tours for well-heeled tourists who
northeast is the wooded area of the Aravallis, where
Alwar, a former princely state, and the Sariska National
Park are situated. To the southwest, past the textile
Churu
Lutu
Chirawa
Bagar
wish to savour the trip through the desert in royal comfort.
Delhi
and gives an illustrated
towns of Sanganer and Bagru, are the religious
sites of Ajmer and Pushkar. Southeast of Jaipur
lies Chaksu, a pilgrim centre, and Tonk, once the
Bikaner
Fatehpur
Mandawa
Jhunjhunu
Dumru Khetri Narnaul

overview of the whole region.
SH
site of a powerful medieval kingdom, beyond

All interesting places to visit
Dundlodh Tijara
EK OUR
Maonda Bahror
which is the spectacular tiger sanctuary of Tarla
A sacred tank at Galta
T
HA
Ranthambhore, nestling beneath the grand Lachhmangarh

Nawalgarh Kishangarh
WA
ramparts of a historic medieval fort. Udaipur Jindoli
are numbered and there are

TI
Kot Putli
Nim Ka
Thana Bansur
Sikar Pragpura
Khandela ALWAR
Thoi
also useful tips on getting to,

SILISERH
Bosana BAIRAT Milakpur
Palsana Ringas
Malakhera
Shahpura Mathura
RAJASTHAN Sariska SARISKA NP
Kuchaman
Ramgarh
CHOMU
SAMODE
Partabgarh
BHANGARH
RAJGARH
Agra
and around, the region by
MAKRANA
SAMBHAR
SALT LAKE
Bheslana
Phulera JAIPUR
AMBER
Ramgarh
Basi
Dausa
Mahwa
Sakrai
Maota Lake in front of Amber Palace
car and public transport.
A roadside tea stall Toda Bhim
BAGRU Sights at a Glance
Gurha
Roopangarh SANGANER Tunga 1 Jaipur (see pp186–203)
Dudu Nandauti Hindaun 2 Amber (see pp204–7)
Bari 3 Sanganer
Key KISHANGARH
Phagi CHAKSU 4 Bagru
Highway Lalsot
Major road
Minor road PUSHKAR
AJMER
Arain
Sewa
Nimera
Banwara
Hingonia
Mandaori
Gangapur
Karauli
5 Alwar (see pp210–11)
6 Siliserh
7 Rajgarh
Each area can be quickly
Ganor
Railroad
State border
Nasirabad
Kaser
Malpura
Nawai
Bonli
RANTHAMBHORE Sapotra
8 Sariska National Park
(see pp214–15)
9 Bairat
identified by its colour coding,
NATIONAL PARK
0 kilometres 25 Beawar
Bandanwara
Sarwar
Junia
Toda Raisingh
TONK
Jhonpra
SAWAI
Khandhar
0 Bhangarh
q Chomu
w Samode
shown on the inside front cover.
Kekri MADHOPUR
0 miles 25 r Sambhar Salt Lake
Udaipur t Makrana
Uniara
Behraonda
Nagar y Kishangarh
Devli u Pushkar (see pp220–21)
i Ajmer (see pp222–5)
Kota INDERGARH o Chaksu
p Tonk
a Sawai Madhopur
s Ranthambhore National Park
(see pp228–9)
d Indergarh
Tours
Pushkar’s spectacular cattle fair in progress Printed textiles drying in the sun at Sanganer e Shekhawati
186 BEYOND DELHI AREA BY AREA For keys to symbols see back flap JAIPUR 187
1 Jaipur Y Talkatora
N of Jai Niwas Bagh. Open daily. s
later filled in and developed
as a residential area.
VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
A labyrinth of fascinating bazaars, opulent The Talkatora is an artificial Practical Information

palaces and historic sights, Jaipur offers a tank that existed before Jaipur  Chaugan Stadium 261 km (162 miles) from Delhi
3 Detailed information was built. This may have been Brahmpuri: Open 5am–8pm daily. on NH8. * 3,073,500. n RTDC,
chance to see the medieval alongside the Swagatam Complex (0141) 220
one of the reasons why this This large open area near the
modern. On its colourful streets, camels jostle site was chosen for the new City Palace derives its name 0595. Rajasthan Tourism, MI Rd,
for space with motorbikes, and turbaned village city. When excavated, it was from chaugan, an ancient Persian (0141) 511 0598. ( Mon–Sat.
All the important towns elders rub shoulders with youngsters in jeans.
Often called the Pink City because its
prominent buildings are washed with this
surrounded on three sides by
a lake known as Rajamal ka
Talab, making it look like a
form of polo played with a curved
stick. In the past, this area was
used for festival processions,
_ Kite Flying (mid-Jan), Elephant
Festival (Feb–Mar), Gangaur
(Mar–Apr), Teej (Jul–Aug).
talkatora, literally a “bowl in wrestling matches, as well as Transport
and other places to visit colour, Jaipur’s old walled area has the City
Palace Museum, a medieval astronomical
Govind Dev Temple, dedicated to Krishna
observatory, and bazaars that sell everything from precious channels and fountains. Towards
a lake”. Sawai Jai Singh II was
particularly fond of this rather
secluded spot and used
elephant and lion fights. The
Jal Mahal,
GAITOR
k Sanganer. £ @ Sindhi Camp.
are described individually.

jewellery to camel skin shoes. Recent additions include a the north of the sight is Badal to breed crocodiles here. Jaigarh &
Amber Fort
maharajas and nobility watched
multi-arts centre, yet the city’s focal point is still the myriad- Mahal, a five-arched hunting The original lake was from the pavilions of Chini ki Burj
windowed pink Hawa Mahal, the Palace of Winds. pavilion on the banks of the RAMGARH (which still retains some of the
Talkatora. Its ceilings still bear Chaugan old blue and white tilework),
They are listed in order,

Stadium Talkatora
faint traces of the cloud Joriwar Moti Burj, Chatar ki Burj and
Jai Niwas Singh Gate
(badal) patterns. Shyam ki Burj, all located here.
R A S LO N
Bagh
AAR
TA
E City Palace Museum

WA
to him. Jai Singh then moved Chaugan is not played any more,
RAS NSHI
JH
O
AZ
ROTW
ROO
TA
D
See pp192–5. to the Chandra Mahal, at the OA but the stadium is the venue for
MU
RI B
A AR
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KA
D A
following the numbering on DR I K AT

BAG
AN Temple RA
AAR
opposite end of the garden,

GAU
the famous Elephant Festival

LAL
BAZ
ICH CHAND AAR
KA
NT
KA POLE City Palace
 Govind Dev Temple V
BAZ
GAN
and installed the image as the

JAI
PAI J AY
TH CH
Museum held at the time of Holi (see p42).
CO L L E C T O R
AN
HAL
Jaleb Chowk, behind City Palace. guardian deity of Jaipur’s DPO

D
Inter-state
RD
TA
LE B Jantar
OA
Bus Terminal AZA Hawa THE

ROAD
A
RAS
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Open 5–11am, 6–8pm daily. rulers. Devotees R Mantar
A
AS R
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Mahal
the Regional Map. Within each

R
D
_ Holi (Mar), Janmashtami N PINK CITY
LO N
AD
KA
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are allowed only RO

HAW
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NA AR
A B
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(Jul–Aug), Annakut (Oct–Nov). AR
AZ
AZ
a brief glimpse of AAR
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Jaipur Railway
S ATG
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K A LYA
SA RAM
GHO
Station
JAN
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The presiding deity of this their god seven Jami GAN

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Masjid ZA
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unusual temple is the flute- times a day,
town or city, there is detailed

AAR
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AAR
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MA IRA
playing Krishna (also known and on special MIR
BAZ
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as Govind Dev). This image, festivals such IL R
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originally from the Govindeoji as Janmashtami AJM Ajmeri BA

BAZ PU
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information on important
RO AN
Temple in Brindavan (see p166), (see p43). A New

M
AD
M
A
L Gate
LV
G H AT
was brought to Amber in the AJMER

TE
DAHAG
Zoo (Birds) Sanganeri

I YA
ASH
PA OK Gate
late 17th century to save it Y Jai MAR
MA
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PR Zoo (Mammals
A
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from the iconoclastic zeal of Niwas Bagh ITH

RD
SARO J I N I & Reptiles)

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buildings and other sights.

SA
RA M Govt Central
RD
Aurangzeb. It is believed that Open 6am– J R Museum

Rani ka Bagh,
A mahout and his caparisoned elephant
A
AGRA
VIR
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10pm daily. AD
this temple was once a garden at a festival
HA
Ram
MA
Raj Mahal S TAT U E Niwas

pavilion called Suraj Mahal, Just behind the Palace
EL
AD
CIRCLE
HOSP Bagh
ITAL
RO
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where Sawai Jai Singh II lived temple is the

G
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AR
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The Building of Jaipur

RI
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MA AR
RD
while his dream-city Jaipur was 18th-century Jai Niwas

M
GA
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SMS
LA
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being built. Legend has it that Bagh, planned as a Sawai Jai Singh II, a brilliant statesman, scholar
DA
DO
TI
Hospital
SIN
EH
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one night, the king awoke from private leisure ground
L N
and patron of the arts, ruled for over 40

TI
DH
AN
BH MA IST
MO
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AW
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RG IR
his sleep to find himself in for the ladies of the years and was awarded the
W
RA
For all top sights, a Visitors’ Checklist A

M NI S
AHA
AG
the presence of Krishna who royal household. Inspired AR IN Museum of title of “Sawai” (“one-and-a-quarter”),
A
W
G GH
BH
JAW
Indology
SA
demanded that his devasthan by the classic Mughal charbagh, a metaphor for one who is extra-
AMBEDKAR NA
(“divine residence”) be returned it has features such as water CIRCLE RA
IN S
INGH RD
ordinary, by Mughal emperor
provides the practical information you Government

House
Sanganer Airport
Rambagh
Palace Hotel
Jawahar Kala Kendra
& Moti Doongri Palace
Muhammad Shah when he was just
11 years old. Along with Bengali scholar
and engineer, Vidyadhar Chakravarty,
15km (9 miles)
Jai Singh supervised the building of a new
will need to plan your visit.
SANGANER
capital south of Amber and named
Sights at a Glance it Jaipur (“city of victory”). Work started
Sawai Jai Singh II
1 City Palace Museum in 1727 and took six years to complete.
(r.1700–43)
2 Govind Dev Temple Surrounded by a crenellated wall
3 Jai Niwas Bagh 0 metres 500 pierced by seven gates, Jaipur is one of
4 Talkatora
North India’s finest examples of a planned urban city. Its grid of nine
0 yards 500
rectangular sectors, believed to represent the nine cosmic divisions
5 Chaugan Stadium
of the universe, is actually based on a geometric and pragmatic
6 Tripolia Bazaar plan with a system of main streets, intersected by spacious market
7 Jantar Mantar squares. Jai Singh encouraged traders and artists to settle here,
Key
8 Hawa Mahal giving tax incentives to merchants to ensure economic prosperity.
A view of the walled city of Jaipur 9 Govt Central Museum Street-by-Street area
For keys to symbols see back flap
158 BEYOND DELHI AREA BY AREA TA J M A H A L 159
Taj Mahal VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
One of the world’s most famous buildings, the Taj Main Practical Information
Mahal commemorates both the Mughal emperor entrance Taj Mahal. Tel (0562) 233 0498.
Open 6am–7pm Sun–Thu.
Shah Jahan, and Mumtaz Mahal, his favourite wife. The Dome Closed Fri. & = _ Taj
Its perfect proportions and exquisite craftsmanship The 44-m (144-ft) double dome Mahotsav (18–27 Feb). Museum:
have been described as “a prayer, a vision, a dream, is capped with a finial. Open 10am–5pm Sun–Thu.
a poem, a wonder.” This sublime garden-tomb, an image Closed public hols. &
of the Islamic garden of paradise, cost nearly 41 million
rupees and 500 kilos of gold. Around 20,000 workers
laboured for almost 22 years to complete it in 1653.
Story boxes explore
. Marble Screen
The filigree screen
related topics.
delicately carved
from a single block
of marble was
meant to veil
the area around
the royal tombs. The Lotus Pool
Named after its lotus-shaped fountain spouts,
the pool reflects the tomb. Almost every visitor
is photographed sitting on the marble bench here.
Pishtaq
Recessed arches
provide depth while
their inlaid panels
reflect the changing
light to give the tomb
a mystical aura.
. Pietra Dura
Inspired by the paradise garden,
intricately carved floral designs inlaid
with precious stones embellish the
austere white marble surface to give
it the look of a bejewelled casket.
Taj Mahal
4 The region’s top sights
These are given two or more
full pages. Historic buildings
1 Main Tomb
2
1 3 2 Masjid (mosque)
3 Mehmankhana
(guesthouse)
4 Charbagh
are dissected to reveal their
KEY
1 Plinth
4
5 Gateway
interiors. The most interesting

2 Four minarets, each 40 m
River
Yamuna
(131 ft) high and crowned
by a chhatri, frame the tomb,
highlighting the perfect
Calligraphic Panels
The size of the Koranic Key
towns or city centres are
. Tomb Chamber symmetry of the complex.
shown in a bird’s-eye view,

verses increases as the arch 5
Mumtaz Mahal’s cenotaph, raised on a platform, 3 The Charbagh was irrigated by gets higher, creating the Central illustration
is placed next to Shah Jahan’s. The actual graves, the waters of the River Jamuna. subtle optical illusion of a Charbagh
in a dark crypt below, are closed to the public. uniformly flowing script.
with sights picked out

and described.
INTRODUCING
DELHI
AGRA & JAIPUR
Great Days in Delhi,

Agra & Jaipur 10–15
Putting Delhi, Agra
& Jaipur on the Map 16–19
A Portrait of Delhi,
Through the Year 42–45
The History of Delhi,
10 INTRODUCING DELHI, AGRA & JAIPUR
GREAT DAYS IN DELHI,

AGRA & JAIPUR
Known as the Golden Triangle, this circuit has a will help you plan your stay without missing
bewildering array of things to do and see. The out on any of the essential experiences. There
cities offer a fascinating window into the culture, are two- and three-day tours that outline the
heritage and heart of India, including the best main attractions. The price guides include
Mughal architecture, amazing cuisines and cost of travel, food and admission fees. Pick,
exquisite art and handicrafts. These itineraries combine and follow your favourite tours.
Museums and
Shopping in Delhi
Two Adults allow at least
₹5,000
•
Take a short historical
walk to the National
Museum
•
Enjoy an al fresco lunch
at Lodi Gardens
•
Discover the Crafts
Museum and the fine
shops in Khan Market
Morning
The main gateway to Humayun’s Tomb, Delhi Start the day with a walk down
majestic Rajpath (see p75), New
A Family Day Out is the Nehru Planetarium Delhi’s main ceremonial street, to
in Delhi (see p82). A dome-shaped India Gate (see p75). The lawns
screen and a sky theatre here are a great vantage point to
Family of 4 allow at least hold live and taped shows view the magnificent sweep of
₹5,000 on astronomy, with a Carl Zeiss Lutyens’s capital complex. A brisk
•
Visit the Rail Museum Spaceflight master projector walk to Janpath will bring you to
and Nehru Planetarium to view the sky. You can also the National Museum (see pp76–9).
•
Shop at the Santushti see the historic module, Soyuz Highlights include objects from
Shopping Complex T-10, which carried Rakesh the Indus Valley Civilization,
Sharma, India’s first astronaut, miniature paintings and the Indo-
•
Explore Humayun’s Tomb to space in 1984. Chinese Buddhist art sections.
Afternoon
Morning Take a lunch break at Basil
Start the day by viewing and Thyme at the nearby
vintage trains at the Rail Santushti Shopping Complex
Museum (see p108). A toy (p122), where some of the city’s
train takes visitors around best boutiques provide a
and, on some days, the old tempting distraction. After a
Patiala State Steam Monorail delicious meal and
is steamed up as well. A bit of shopping, head for
must-see is the Fairy Queen, Humayun’s Tomb (see p87).
manufactured in 1855 and Set in the centre of a stylised
listed in the Guinness Book of garden, India’s first great
Records as the world’s oldest Mughal garden tomb is
working locomotive. Next, visit a tranquil place. Pause to
the Nehru Memorial Museum examine the fine trellis-work
and Library (see p82), once of the stone screens. The
the official residence of India’s lawns provide space for
first prime minister, Pandit children to run around and
Jawaharlal Nehru, and now enjoy themselves after a India Gate, surrounded by lawns, a pleasant
a museum. Within its grounds morning spent indoors. picnic spot
Miniature painting of a Rajput prince, surrounded by female attendants in a garden pavilion
G R E AT D AY S I N D E L H I , A G R A & J A I P U R 11
A Day in Jaipur

₹8,000
•
Take an elephant ride
to the dramatic Rajput
fort-palace of Amber
•
Palace-hop in Jaipur
•
Grab lunch at a
heritage hotel
•
Visit a traditional
Indian bazaar
Morning
Begin your day with a trip to the
dramatic 16th-century hill fort of
Amber (see pp204–5). An elephant
ride takes you to the complex, with
courtyards, private gardens and
Taj Mahal at sunrise, a sublime experience pillared apartments. Back in Jaipur,
a city of palaces, start palace-
A short taxi ride from here will bring day to visit the Taj as the after- hopping by first going to the City
you to Lodi Gardens (see p83) for noon sun heats the marble Palace (see pp192–3), a part of
a delicious al fresco lunch at Lodi and makes it difficult to walk which still houses the erstwhile
Garden Restaurant (see p250). barefoot (mandatory here). royal family. Close by is the Jantar
Nothing can top this experience, Mantar (see pp196–7), still used to
Afternoon so break off for lunch to recover calculate astronomical events.
After lunch, visit the Crafts your breath. Finally, visit Hawa Mahal (see p190),
Museum (see pp90–91), to see a whimsical façade of windows
an unusual art collection. Open Afternoon and quite unlike any other palace.
courtyards with shady trees Head for Itmad-ud-Daulah’s
provide good resting places Tomb (see pp162–3) to see Afternoon
for children and the elderly. the superb pietra dura interiors A leisurely lunch at the Rambagh
End your day at lively Khan and the delicate marble Palace Hotel (see p199) comes
Market (see p83), exploring the screens, that almost rival those with all the trappings of a royal
excellent bookshops, boutiques of the Taj. The last lap of the day feast, including splendidly attired
and cafés to be found there. must belong to historic Agra waiters. However, don’t miss out
Fort (see p154). Shah Jahan on an afternoon of shopping at the
was imprisoned by his son lively bazaars around Bari Chaupar
A Day in Agra in the fort’s Musamman Burj. (see pp188–9) for brightly printed
He spent his last days gazing textiles, hand-made paper and
Two Adults allow at least lovingly at the Taj, across the silver jewellery. Also check out
₹5,000 river. You can stand at the same Johari Bazaar’s jewellery shops,
•
View the sunrise over window to say your final good- showcasing the famous kundan
the Taj Mahal bye to the Taj. and precious stone work.
•
Discover the glories
of the Itmad-ud-
Daulah Tomb
•
Say goodbye to the Taj,
Shah Jahan style
Morning
Try and reach Agra the evening
before so that you can watch
the sun rise over the Taj Mahal
(see pp158–9) – the changing
colours of the marble make for
an unforgettable experience.
It is also the best time of the Elephants waiting for visitors outside Amber Fort, Jaipur
Exhibits at the National Gallery of Modern Art
Next, visit the nearby National the Red Fort (pp98–9), where
Three Days in Delhi Museum (pp76–9), which you can wrap up your Old
has a great collection of historic Delhi adventure with a sound-
Two Adults allow at least antiquities on display. For a and-light show. Visit nearby
₹5,000 more contemporary perspective Connaught Place (p80) for
•
View the antiquities at of India, pop into the National dinner – there are plenty
the National Museum Gallery of Modern Art (p75). of options, varying from the
•
Watch the Son et Lumière Don’t miss out on the gallery’s more traditional to fusion,
at the Red Fort stunning journey through Asian and European.
Indian art, titled In the Seeds of The pretty colonnaded
•
Climb to the top of the Time, which includes works by streets make for a good
Qutb Minar eminent artists such as Amrita walk after dinner.
•
Explore Hauz Khas Village Shergill and Jamini Roy.
•
Experience Bollywood at Day 2
the Kingdom of Dreams Afternoon Take a cycle Morning Spend your morning
rickshaw tour of Chandni at the Qutb Minar (pp116–17).
Chowk (94–7), and explore Visit the complex early, before
the network of streets that the tourists arrive, and enjoy
Day 1 take you to the heart of Old a peaceful stroll around the
Morning Begin the day with Delhi. Catch a glimpse of the ancient monuments. The most
a stroll around India Gate beautiful Naughara street, prominent feature of the
(p75). Designed by the British which is lined with old, brightly- complex is the stunning, five-
architect Edwin Lutyens, the painted havelis (mansions). On storeyed Victory Tower. The
monument commemorates your way, stop by the jalebiwalla tower was built with materials
the Indian soldiers who for a taste of traditional sweets from ransacked Hindu temples,
died during World War I. in Chandni Chowk. Then, visit and the architecture reflects
From here, take a walk along the peaceful Jami Masjid a fascinating cross of Hindu
Rajpath (p75), the city’s main (p96), one of Shah Jahan’s finest and Islamic styles. If you have
ceremonial street, towards architectural wonders. Afterwards, time, visit the nearby village
the parliament buildings. head out of Chandni Chowk to of Mehrauli (p117), which
has an array of beautiful
monuments as well.
Afternoon Head north

towards Hauz Khas (p110).
Here you can enjoy lunch at one
of the unconventional eateries
in Hauz Khas Village (p242),
a bustling neighbourhood,
popular with designers and
artists, but also one that houses
the ruins of the oldest madarsa
(university) in New Delhi.
After lunch, take a stroll in the
lovely Deer Park. The Delhi Art
Gallery, which has a great
collection of contemporary
The Jami Masjid, one of Delhi’s largest mosques art, is located here as well.
There are many private galleries, tickets for the show in advance).
boutiques, coffee shops and tea Described as the carnival
rooms around the area. If you of India, this all-singing and
browse through the eccentric dancing ensemble gives insight
stores, you can find vintage into India’s other great love –
Bollywood movie posters, funky cinema. The interior of the
souvenirs and classic kurtas Kingdom of Dreams complex
(Indian shirts). Later, take a short offers a glimpse of every
drive to the Baha’i House of region in India. From Goan
Worship (p119), better known architecture, with its vividly-
as the Lotus temple. Completed painted buildings, to ornate
in 1986, the temple is shaped sculptures reminiscent of
like a lotus, and designed in Khajuraho in Madhya Pradesh,
a contemporary fashion. The the auditorium is a sight to
Baha’i faith emphasizes on behold. You can sample
monotheism, and is dedicated traditional foods from every
to the spiritual unity of all races, region – buttermilk from
religions and castes. Devote the Himachal Pradesh, delicious
evening to the Lodi Gardens Bara Gumbad or the “big dome” at the snacks from Gujarat, and spicy
(p83), a popular sunset spot. Lodi Gardens vindaloo (curry) from Goa.
This green oasis is usually
crowded with people, walking over the country. There is much To extend your trip…
and running, during all hours to buy in this market – from a Take a four-hour drive from
of the day. There are several variety of handicrafts to shawls, Delhi to Alwar (pp210–11),
monuments within the park jewellery, lamps, and much a city that offers a totally
that can be explored, such more. The market offers hassle different experience of the
as the tomb of Sikander Lodi. free shopping. Sample food region. There are plenty of
Have dinner at the Lodi Garden from states as diverse as Kashmir majestic fort hotels with
Restaurant (p250), or head to and Goa. The Rajasthani stall commanding views and
the nearby Khan Market (p83) has particularly good kulfi fabulous suites. The City
for drinks, dinner and some (ice cream) and delicious Palace (p210), built in the
retail therapy. kejsangri (desert beans). 18th century, gives visitors
a view of beautiful Rajput
Day 3 Afternoon After lunch, make a architecture. The Vinai Vilas
Morning Start with a trip quick visit to Humayan’s Tomb Mahal within the palace has
to the National Rail Museum (p87). This majestic mausoleum stunning, ornate balconies
(pp108–9), which offers insight belongs to the second Mughal and intricate stone carvings.
into India’s extensive rail emperor, Humayun, and is an The City Palace Museum
network. Tour the area on architectural marvel of the (p210) has a fine collection
the toy train, which takes you period. Afterwards, catch the of Indian miniature paintings.
around the park. Next, head Delhi metro to Gurgaon. Get Enjoy the view of the
to Dilli Haat (p109), which is off at the IFFCO metro station countryside around this
themed like a village market for a Bollywood-style show at elegant property.
and features artisans from all the Kingdom of Dreams (book
Colourful handicrafts on display at the Dilli Haat

Two Days in Agra

₹8,000
•
Discover the history
of the Taj Mahal
•
Take a boat ride
near the Agra Fort
•
Travel to the ancient
city of Fatehpur Sikri
•
Visit the renowned tomb
of Akbar in Sikandra
Day 1 The beautifully carved sandstone pillars of the palace of Fatehpur Sikri
Morning The best time to
visit the Taj Mahal (pp158–61) palace, Machchhi Bhawan (p154) of Agra. His tomb is a marvellous
is early in the morning. It is ideal and the Musamman Burj (p154), symmetrical structure, set in
to arrive an evening prior to your the tower where Shah Jahan a beautiful garden, and the
visit, and get a timely start the was later imprisoned. It is also room has wonderful acoustics.
next day. Famously described by possible to take a boat along the Make sure you experiment
Rabindranath Tagore as “a solitary river for splendid views of the Taj. with sound in the burial chamber,
tear suspended on the cheek and ask your guide for more
of time”, the Taj is a magnificent Day 2 information on the use of
sight to behold at dawn. Explore Morning Start off with a short these acoustics. End the
the chambers and the gardens. drive from Agra to the deserted day with a walk through
The calligraphic panels and the city of Fatehpur Sikri (pp174–7). the bazaars (pp259–61) of
jewelled marble patterns are Built by Akbar in 1571, it served Agra, where you can shop for
exquisite. Unwind over lunch at as his capital for 14 years. How- nick-nacks. To enjoy good food
nearby Dasprakash (p254). ever, the lack of an adequate and live instrumental music, have
supply of water led to its eventual dinner at Esphahan (p254)
Afternoon Spend the after- abandonment. The city has since at the Oberoi Amarvilas.
noon exploring the incredible been restored and today, it is
red arches of Agra Fort (p154). an enchanting sight. Visit the To extend your trip…
Located across the Yamuna River, Buland Darwaza (p177), and The Keoladeo Ghana
the fort has an arrangement of the marvellous Tomb of Sheikh National Park (p172–3) is
halls, galleries and courtyards, Salim Chishti (p177), where a great stopover between
and the Taj Mahal can be viewed many passersby tie knots of Agra and Jaipur. Ride a
from almost everywhere. There thread and make wishes. Get an bicycle through the bird
is much to learn and see here – early start to avoid the crowds. sanctuary, or take a walk
from the emperor Shah Jahan’s in the park. Travel further to
private mosque, Mina Masjid Afternoon Akbar himself Mathura (p165), and discover
(p154), and the grape garden, is buried at Sikandra (p164), the Krishna temples.
Anguri Bagh (p154), to the fish a small village on the outskirts
Akbar’s tomb at Sikandra, Agra

Next, explore the twisting bazaars the textile traditions of the

Two Days in Jaipur around the palace. Taste the local city can visit Sanganer
kachoris (round balls of dough, (p208), a bustling Jaipur
Two Adults allow at least stuffed with lentils and spices), suburb, and Bagru (p208),
₹6,000 and lassi (whipped yoghurt shake) a village that specializes in
•
Explore the collections at at the popular lassiwala. Visitors traditional textile printing.
the City Palace Museum will find a lane dedicated
•
See the detailed jali work to wedding paraphernalia, Afternoon After lunch, head
at Hawa Mahal a jewellery market, numerous to the famous Jantar Mantar
shops that sell cloth, and almost (p196–7), the largest ancient
•
Ride an elephant everything else imaginable. observatory in Jaipur, with
up to Amber Fort There are a few charming 16 monumental instruments
•
View the sunset from old havelis scattered within installed to calculate the
the fort of Nahargarh the walled city as well. In the changes of season and time.
evening, make your way to The observatory was built by
Chokhi Dhani (p256) for a the well-known astronomer
typical village experience in Sawai Jai Singh II, who believed
Jaipur. This quaint, themed that predictions would be more
village offers puppet shows, accurate if the size of each
head massages, and rides on instrument was bigger. Wind
camels and elephants. Enjoy up the day with a visit to the
a delicious traditional dinner fort of Nahargarh (p202), where
while seated on rustic mats. you can catch the sunset, along
with wonderous views of Jaipur.
Day 2 There is a little restaurant within
Morning Begin the day the walls of the fort, where
with a tour of Amber Fort visitors can enjoy a meal.
(pp204–6), one of the most
exquisite fort palaces in To extend your trip…
Rajasthan. The fort is a short Travel north of Jaipur to
drive from Jaipur, and visitors Shekhawati (pp216–17),
usually take an elephant ride famous for its painted havelis.
The ornamental entrance to Chandra Mahal up the steep climb to the Located close to each other,
at the Jaipur City Palace complex. Check out the ornate the small towns of Mandawa
glass palace, Sheesh Mahal (p217), Nawalgarh (p217)
Day 1 (p206), and the captivating and Sikar (p217) have
Morning Located in the heart temple of goddess Kali, the beautiful restored forts
of Jaipur is the City Palace Shila Devi Temple (p206). with murals, which attract
(pp192–5), which today houses an The views across the valley many visitors. Many of
impressive collection of textiles, are incredible, and there are these fort-palaces have
weaponry and miniature Mughal a few boutiques within the been converted into hotels,
paintings. Visit the museum to fort where visitors can do and are a wonderful way
appreciate the grand blend of a little shopping. Later, walk to experience the heritage.
Rajput and Mughal architecture, to the nearby Anokhi Museum Do not forget to visit the
the role of the maharaja, and of Handblock Print, where you beautiful Ranthambhore
the rich heritage of the area. can discover the rich history of National Park (pp228–9),
At the Chandra Mahal (p194), craftsmanship and handblock where you may even be able
have a look at the delicate marble printing in India. Grab a cup of to view the elusive Bengal
work and floral depictions, coffee while you view the exhibits. tiger. Book in advance.
embedded with precious stones. Those further interested in
Enjoy a traditional Rajasthani
lunch at MI Road.
Afternoon Head north to

Hawa Mahal (p190), the
elegant “Palace of Winds” in
the Old City. The palace has
an intricately-designed façade,
with lovely jali work (ornately-
carved stone lattice) on the
windows. The initial purpose of
these carvings was to allow the
women of the harem to watch
the parades without being seen. Panoramic view of the splendid Amber Fort, Jaipur
Putting Delhi, Agra &

Jaipur on the Map I nd
us
The Delhi, Agra and Jaipur region lies
in the heart of North India. It covers an
area of about 114, 000 sq km (44, 000 Sh
Wular Lake ay
sq miles) and has a population of over o k
Srinagar
23 million. Delhi is the capital of India, Leh
while Jaipur is the capital of Rajasthan. JAMMU &
Che K A S HM I R Ngari
na Pang-gong
Agra is a major district headquarters Tso
b
in the state of Uttar Pradesh. Both Delhi Tso Moriri
and Jaipur have international airports, Jammu
Kullu
while Agra is serviced by domestic
flights. The region also has good road Amritsar HIMACHAL
PRADESH
and railway connections, with Agra
about three hours and Jaipur about PUNJAB
Shimla
four by train from Delhi. Chandigarh
Manasarovar
Mussoorie Lake
Dehra Dun
Yamuna UTTARAKHAND
HARYANA Nainital
Ga nges
PAKISTAN
Bikaner Delhi
UTTAR
PRADESH
Jaisalmer RAJASTHAN Agra
Jaipur Lucknow G
Ajmer l
Jodhpur ba Kanpur
am
Ch Gwalior
in
Lu
Jhansi Allahabad
Kota
Khajuraho
Udaipur
GUJARAT
Bhuj M A DHY A P R A D E SH
Gandhinagar
Bhopal
Kandla Ahmedabad
Jamnagar Jabalpur
Rajkot Vadodara Indore
C
Narmad a
Bhavnagar
Tapti
I N D I A
Surat Raipur
Diu Nagpur Durg
Ajanta
Nasik
MAHARASHTRA
Ellora Aurangabad
Mumbai Ahmadnagar Jagdalpur
Pune
Nizamabad
Karimnagar
Satara Bidar
Warangal
Solapur
God
Hyderabad av
ANDHRA
ari
PRADESH
KARNATAKA na
Panaji Krish
PUTTING DELHI, AGRA & JAIPUR ON THE MAP 17
Putting India on the Map

Key KAZAKHSTAN
MONGOLIA
Delhi, Agra and Jaipur region

UZBEKISTAN
National highway KYRGYZSTAN
TURKMENISTAN
Major road TAJIKISTAN
International border AFGHANISTAN

IRAN
State border C H I N A
Delhi
PAKISTAN
Disputed border
UAE INDIA
SAUDI
ARABIA MYANMAR
Yanhuxiang
LAOS
OMAN
THAILAND
VIETNAM
Arabian CAMBODIA
Sea
Xiongbaxiang
SRI
LANKA
MALDIVES
M A L AY S I A
Indian Ocean INDONESIA
C H I N A
Tibet Lhasa
Tsangpo N O R T H E A ST
ST A T E S
N E P A L
Ziro
SIKKIM Thimphu Dibrugarh
Kathmandu Itanagar
Gangtok BHUTAN
orakhpur Raxaul Jorhat
Bagdogra Tezpur
Dimapur
Guwahati
Kohima
a
Brahmaputr
Patna Shillong
Varanasi Imphal
B IH AR
Silchar
So n
Gaya BANGLADESH
Tamu
JHARKHAND Aizawl
Shantiniketan Dhaka Agartala Kale Kalewa
Ranchi WEST
HHATTIS- BENGAL MYANMAR
GARH Kolkata
Haldia
ODISHA Ma
ha
n a di
Sittwe
Bhubaneswar
Puri
Port Blair
Kyaukpyu
0 kilometres 200
Visakhapatnam
0 miles 200
The external boundaries of India as shown

on this map are neither correct nor authentic.
Delhi City Centre and Greater Delhi

SH
Some of Delhi’s most impressive buildings can be seen in this area. YA
M A PR
NAYA BAZAAR
The sights described in this book are grouped within three areas, Sadar A SAD
Bazaar
each of which can be explored by foot. Vijay Chowk is the vantage
point for the grand sweep of Raj buildings grouped on Raisina Hill. KHARI BAOLI
Q U TA B
ROAD
BA L L I M
To the north, the magnificent Jami Masjid, with its busy hive of
LA
L
lanes, was once the heart of the Mughal empire and is still the
KU
AR
AN
AN
ROA
focus of Old Delhi. The past and present mingle here and yet
BA
ZA
AR
preserve their own space and identity. To the east, the medieval
RD
quarter around the dargah of the Sufi Nizamuddin Auliya leads
along Mathura Road to the ruined Purana Qila. This ancient site
has interesting origins, going back to a distant mythological past.
New
C HELM SFOR D R O A D
Delhi
AD
AD
PA A R RO
B A ZA
RO
NC MAIN
AD
HK
RO
ND
UI
NT
AN
RD
NA
SA
G
KA
RK Ashram
RO
BA
AR
HIB
Marg
VE
AD
M
SA
A CHOW
VI
LA
IR
R
NG
DI
D
AN
BA
)
(IN
N
Rajiv
MA
G
SH A HEED BHAG AT
BHAI VIR SINGH MG
M
SING H MAR G Chowk
RK
CON
AM
TU
BA
HR
MG R
U S AKH
NA
KA Shivaji UG
AS
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BA SIN AD MB
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A
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BA
SIN TO
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R D AS
RA
JAI
BA
SA
GA
AS H
HA
M
M
OK
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BIS AR
RD
J A N PAT H
Vijay Chowk (see p74), at the base of Raisina Hill, Patel Janpath
MG
TA D R G
HI
AH
Chowk
LK
NORTH AVE
SH
MG
surrounded by government offices AT RO E

NT
MG
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CHURCH ROAD DR RAJENDRA PRASAD RD

TERESA
MUGHAL Central Secretariat

RAFI AHMED
GARDENS
VIJAY
CHOWK R A J PAT H R A J PAT H
MA N S IN G H RO
National
Museum
AV EN UE
Udhyog
R
D ALH O U SI E RD MAULANA AZAD RD

HE
TH Bhawan MO
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OT
GA R
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MG
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KR ON M
SOUTH
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Greater Delhi Panipat RO

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Old EN R
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Delhi MU BA
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TU GHL UQ R D
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Race
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RO
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SA
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MAX MUELLER
RA
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The
JU
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una
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H LU
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New
RO
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Delhi 24 G A RD E N S
NH
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Delhi
MG
Cantonment
ROAD
Hazrat LO D I
Indira Gandhi Nizamuddin
International
Airport Lajpat
Nagar
NH
2
NH 8
Vasant Siri
Vihar Fort
Agra
Mahipalpur Mehrauli
0 kilometres 8
0 miles 8 Tughlakabad
Chhatarpur

PUTTING DELHI, AGRA & JAIPUR ON THE MAP 19
Key
Major sight
RI
NG
MUKHERJI MA RO
RG
A
D
Chandni
Chowk
CH ANDN I CHO WK
C H AN D N I
M A H AT M A
NA
Red Fort
N E TA
I
CH O W K
SA
RA
K
Chawri Bazaar
JI
RI
ZAAR
RI BA
NG
AW
CH CH
SU
GA
SI UR
TA I WAL
BH
I
ND
RA
RO
GA
ASH
M
HI
AN
LI
BA
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SAR
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BA
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MA R G
AR
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CH
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AS I
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AF
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TL
ALI
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AB
RO
AR
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TA J AW A H A R L A L N
G EHRU MARG
T SINGH MG
RD ORE
AD
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BAHA DUR SHAH
MIRDARD M ARG
R ANJEE
ZAFA R MG
RING
Shivaji
Bridge KO
DE TL
JA
EN A
RA
DA
ROAD
MARG
HA
YA
L
MA
UP
AD
Barakhamba Rd HY Jami Masjid (see p96), the city’s main mosque
AY
A
MG near Chandni Chowk
Mandi
House Tilak Bridge
SIKA NDR A RD
MARG
M AT H U R A
RIN
Pragati
G
Maidan
G
AR
P R A GATI
COPERNICUS
M A IDA N
Indraprastha
K
LA
Pragati
ROA
ROAD
Maidan
TI
NA
RA
PU A RD
D
Crafts
QIL Museum
BHAIRON MA R
G
MATHURA
SH
ER
SH
A H RD
AD AN
MA
RO JAH
DR
ROAD
HA
AH
ZA
SH
TM
KIR
G
M
PANDARA
I Purana Qila (see p88), Delhi’s oldest historical site, now an integral
ROAD
HU
Khan A RT
BH
SS
NATI O NAL part of the city

GA
Market
AI N
M ZO O LO GI CAL
IA
ARCHBISHOP MAKA R I
ND
AN
PARK
M
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RA
HI
AR
B
SU
MAHARISHI RAM
MAR
DE LHI GOL F
COURSE
MA
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TH
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AN MG
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Humayun's
UR
Tomb
G
D
ROA
KI S A R A I R D
LO D I
AB
HARSHA RD
Nizamuddin
RO
AR
Station
AD
RA
HIM
KH
A
BA N
R ISBT
RO P U
Sarai Kale
A
AD L
Khan
LA
H
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F LY O V E
0 metres 800
0 yards 800 Buddha Jayanti Park (see p108), created on the

Ridge in northwest Delhi
INTRODUCING DELHI, AGRA & JAIPUR 21
A PORTRAIT OF DELHI,
AGRA & JAIPUR
The Delhi, Agra and Jaipur region lies at the geographical heart of
North India. Its strategic location along the north-south and east-west
routes has given it a focal position in Indian history and many great
empires have been ruled from here. What we see today is a dynamic
blend of the old and the new, a proudly traditional social structure
within a modern liberalized economy.
This landlocked region is enclosed it was the Aryan settlements in the

by mountains to the north, the desert next millennium that provided the
and the forested Aravallis to the west. region with its philosophical moorings,
To the east are the agriculturally rich epic literature, such as the Ramayana
riverine plains, with vast fields of and Mahabharata, and its early Hindu
sugarcane, wheat, mustard and lentils. kingdoms. In the first and second
Southwards, these flat plains dramatically centuries, the area was the centre
metamorphose into the earth pillars of of a Buddhist empire when the
the Chambal ravines, a rugged landscape Kushana emperors who ruled from
once inhabited by fierce bandits. Invaders, Taxila (now in Pakistan) made Mathura
entering the sub-continent from the moun- their second capital. After the decline
tain passes of the northwestern frontiers, of the great Hindu and Buddhist empires,
conquered this region centuries ago powerful Rajput rulers seized control
and made it their home. of parts of North India. Many of the
magnificent forts from which their
The Legacy of the Past feudal kingdoms were ruled can
The earliest civilization in this region still be seen today.
was the Harappan culture in the Religion has always been the
second millennium BC. However, cultural link between the epochs,
Men in colourful turbans at the village square

A group of musicians at the Diwan-i-Khas in Jaipur’s City Palace
Cenotaphs of the Bharatpur kings at Kusum Sarovar near Brindavan
and by the 13th century, Hinduism power of the British East India
had been influenced by the Bhakti Company. In 1858, the East India
Movement which stressed the need Company’s territories in India were
for a personal god. This resulted in the transferred to the British Crown,
Krishna cult, centred around Mathura and the country settled down to
and Brindavan – places associated with a 90-year span of Pax Britannica.
the youth of this popular god. Even as The legacy of the British Raj lives
the Bhakti Movement flourished, invaders on in modern India’s administrative
from Afghanistan and Central Asia and educational systems, and English
conquered the north. Delhi, and later is today the common language of
Agra, became the capitals of the communication between India’s
Muslim sultans. The cross-fertilization different linguistic regions and states.
of indigenous and Islamic cultures In 1947, British rule came to an
bred a unique hybrid that influenced end and India became an independent
art, architecture, music and cuisine, nation. Since then, the country has faced
reaching its zenith with the Mughals. the challenge of building industries,
The 19th century saw the decline of and tackling the social problems of
the Mughal empire and the growing illiteracy, poverty and the caste
system. As the population of India
raced towards one billion, these
problems became more pressing.
So, in the 1990s, India adopted
an open-market economy, adding
yet another dimension of change
to a land that is constantly on
the move.
People and Culture

The capital of India, New Delhi, is
known as a city of migrants. After the
Open-air classes at a village school near Neemrana violent Partition of India and Pakistan
A PORTRAIT OF DELHI, AGRA & JAIPUR 23
in 1947, millions of people, mainly

from West Punjab, flocked here in
search of a new life. Since then,
there has been a continuing influx
of people from all over India. The
second most populous city in the
world after Tokyo, Delhi has doubled
its population since 1990 to 25 million.
The majority of its citizens have
settled here primarily for economic
reasons – the average wage here is
twice that of the country as a whole.
This mega-city nevertheless
retains a small-town friendliness
in its different neighbourhoods.
Life still centres around the family,
even though the joint family system
is breaking down here, as is the Bullock carts transporting rural goods
case in all big Indian cities. Beyond
the family is the larger world of in interesting combinations.
the regional community which Different levels of development are
plays a significant role in the city’s evident in Delhi, Agra and Jaipur.
social and cultural life. Diaspora But in all three cities, with the
groups very often come together liberalized economy bringing
for auspicious occasions such in a sudden flood of consumer
as marriages or festivals, with goods, and cable television
which the Indian calendar is channels beaming foreign
punctuated. Its mixed population cultures into their homes, the
has made Delhi a resolutely lifestyles and expectations of
cosmopolitan city where Hindus, the people are rapidly changing.
Muslims, Christians and Sikhs live A fashion model What makes the region so
side by side. Yet, each community interesting is that contrasts often
has retained its distinct cultural exist here in perfect harmony – a bullock
identity, and the city is less a melting cart plods placidly beside the latest luxury
pot than a thali (plate) whose offerings car; weather forecasts are made both
may either be savoured singularly or by satellite imaging and astrological
calculations;
and jeans-clad
youngsters
eating pizza in
fast food joints
are just as much
at ease in a sari
or dhoti, sitting
cross-legged on
the floor at home,
to participate
in traditional
ceremonies
A religious procession in Jaipur moving along in traditional splendour or rituals.
Landscape and Wildlife Indian Trees

The Delhi, Agra and Jaipur region lies at the heart of The region’s rich variety of trees
northern India and covers a wide ecological zone, flanked has local species as well as
by the Himalayas to the north and the ravines of the River some of recent import. Some
are sacred, others are
Chambal to the south. To the west are the Aravalli mountain valued for their Banyan
range and the Thar Desert, and to the east stretch the healing qualities. leaves
riverine plains watered by the Yamuna and the Chambal.
Forests once covered much of this area but, with growing
urbanization, have now been reduced to a few pockets
around the national parks. These are the habitats of
many prized species, like the endangered tiger.
Sub-Himalayan Region Dry Deciduous Forests

The Indian pine (chir) and sal (Shorea robusta) This ecological zone covers the
once formed thick forests that covered this arid and semi-arid tracts along
area, but few remain today. However, there the Aravallis. The mixed vegetation
are still areas with sufficient forest cover of scrub and deciduous trees
to support a varied wildlife. comprises acacias, cassia and
dhak (Butea monosperma),
Indian elephants are cacti and wild grasses.
smaller than the African
species and are found
on the lower Himalayan Sambar, India’s largest
slopes. These gentle, deer, is crowned with
intelligent animals impressive antlers.
are easy to train
and domesticate. Tiger, the national
animal, is now a
protected species.
Cheetal, the graceful Indian Loss of forest cover
spotted deer, moves in herds today has brought
in the grassland areas. it to the brink
of extinction.
Monkeys of two Crested serpent eagle, with its

types, the rhesus underwing pattern of black and
and the langur, white bands, is a large raptor often
thrive here. seen in the Ranthambhore forests.
Ashoka (Saraca indica), one Pipal (Ficus religiosa), a hardy tree

of India’s five sacred trees, is that grows anywhere, is
extolled in Indian literature. also the sacred Bodhi
tree under which the
Buddha attained
enlightenment in
Bodh Gaya.
Kadamba
(Anthocephalus
Neem (Azadirachta indica). cadamba) is a tall,
This large, shade-giving tree majestic tree
has an extraordinary range of associated with
medicinal, antiseptic and Krishna and
disinfectant properties. Brindavan.
Wetlands Riverine Areas

In the southwest are shallow inland lakes, These lie to the south and east along the
marshes and swamps that have been formed Yamuna and Chambal rivers. The southern
from subterranean artesian wells. This is the area is marked by desolate ravines, formed by
habitat of otters and a wide variety of resident erosion and covered with tufts of wiry grass,
and migratory birds who feed on fish but to the east the rich alluvial plains form a
and aquatic plants. thriving agricultural belt. The rivers support
a rich aquatic wildlife.
Painted stork, with its
black and pink
plumage, keeps
its long beak
immersed in
water, probing Gharial (Gavialis gangeticus) is a species
the sediment at the of crocodile found in the Ganges and its
bottom for food. tributaries. It is named after the pitcher-
like (ghara) hump on its long, lean snout.
Darter or snake bird

boasts dark, glossy plumage.
Large flocks can be found King cobra is the world’s
in marshy areas, largest venomous
spearing fish snake. This lethal
with their reptile has a
sharp beaks characteristic mark
and then on its hood and is
swallowing considered to be one of
them. Shiva’s sacred creatures.
Religions
India is a mosaic of different religions, varying from the
ancient animistic beliefs of the tribal communities to the
rigid orthodoxies of the Hindu caste system. The majority
of India’s population are Hindus, while around 138 million
(13 per cent) are Muslims. Several other religions, such as
Sikhism, Buddhism, Jainism, Zoroastrianism, Judaism and
Christianity, also flourish. Jawaharlal Nehru (see p82) saw
a unity in this diversity, and the Constitution of India
declares it to be a secular republic, where the state has
no official religion and all faiths can be freely practised.
The traditional family

Hinduism structure was that of a
The bedrock of Hinduism joint family presided over
constitutes the four Vedas by its patriarch. This is now A sufi mystic on a carpet outside
and the Upanishads, which fast disappearing in urban a dargah (shrine)
are a holistic compilation of areas. Yet, sanskara, traditional
knowledge, philosophy and values, are still instilled into it gained prominence in
ethics. Yet, Hinduism is not a children, and complicated rites the north only after the 12th
religion of written precepts, but mark each stage of orthodox century, when it was declared
a way of life that has Hindu life. There is also an the state religion under the
evolved organically aspect of Hinduism medieval Muslim rulers.
over the past which shuns idol- Today, Muslims are India’s
5,000 years. worship, and prefers second largest religious
In practice, to concentrate on community, despite a large
Hindus worship a larger philosophical exodus to Pakistan after the
huge pantheon of issues. Sadhus, traumatic Partition of 1947
gods and goddesses who wear saffron (see pp62–3). Muslims can be
(see pp28–9). Socially, to indicate their broadly divided into two sects,
they can be divided retreat from the the Sunnis and the Shias. The
into four castes – the The sacred feet material world, are latter believe that Prophet
upper caste Brahmins of Vishnu its most visible Mohammed’s cousin Ali and
(priests), the Kshatriyas practitioners. They his descendents are the true
(warriors), the Vaishyas hold a most respected position imams. Traditional Muslim
(merchants and traders), in Hindu society. education, based on the
and the lowest caste, Sudras Koran, is still imparted by
(workers). The caste system the clergy in madrasas near
envisioned society as an Islam mosques, which are central
organic whole with each Islam was introduced into to the entire community.
part or caste performing Western India in the 8th In India, the Friday public
a vital function. century by Arab traders, but prayers, led by the local imam,
are only open to men, and
nearly all Muslim places of
worship follow strict rules
of segregation.
Sufism is a less orthodox
mystic Islamic order. Its
teachings emphasize direct
experience of god, and
Sufis believe that mystical
ecstasy can be attained even
through music and dance.
Sufi saints like Nizamuddin
Auliya (see p86) attracted many
converts from Hinduism, and
the fusion of the two religious
traditions led to a flowering
Pundits dressed in saffron clothes, conducting yagnas of poetry, music and art.
by absorbing some dialects,

Sikhism practices and rituals to make
Sikhism is a reformist religion it easier for local worshippers
founded by Guru Nanak in to follow them.
the 15th century. Eschewing
idol worship, rituals and the
caste system, it believes in a Other Religions
formless god. The Sikh, with Apart from these four major
his characteristic turban, is easy groups, India has other smaller
to identify. He is supposed to though distinct religious
abide by the five “k”s’: kesh communities. Buddhists are
(long hair), kachha (underpants), Church services are often conducted in followers of Gautam Buddha
kirpan (small sword), kangha local dialects who lived and preached the
(comb) and kara (bracelet). gospel of non-violence and
The Sikhs follow the teachings emperor Akbar (see pp56–7) peace. From India, Buddhism
of ten gurus that are contained invited Jesuit priests to spread to other countries in
in their holy book, the Adi religious discussions held in Asia but, ironically, it has now
Granth, kept in the Golden Fatehpur Sikri (see pp174–5). nearly vanished in the land
Temple at Amritsar (Punjab). With the coming of the East of its birth. The 14th Dalai
Religious persecution by India Company, Protestant Lama, the spiritual leader of
the later Mughals led the missionaries spread across the Tibetan Buddhists,
tenth guru, Gobind Singh, to the country, setting up now lives in India with
reorganize the community in educational institutions his followers in exile and
1699 as a military order called and hospitals in the is a widely respected
the Khalsa, based on the 18th and 19th figure. Jains, the
principles of sangat centuries. Many followers of
(congregation), simran are still run Mahavira,
(meditation), kirtan (hymn by dedicated are a pacific
singing), langar and pangat workers. They A golden Buddha statue and non-
(sharing and partaking of also involved violent
food in a common kitchen). themselves with reform community who respect life in
movements and influenced every form, and observe rigid
the government to take fasts and self-denial. They are
measures against practices divided into the Svetambaras
such as sati (see p52). Marriages (dressed in white) and the
between Indians and the Digambaras (who shun
Europeans who came led to clothing). The Parsis are
the birth of the Anglo-Indian followers of Zoroaster and
community. During the Raj came from Persia between
(see pp60–61), the railways and the 8th and the 9th century.
many of the subordinate civil A small community, they
services were run by them. have nevertheless played
Indian Christians believe that a significant role in Indian
the apostle St Thomas brought industry and are known for
the religion to South India in their philanthropy. The first
the 1st century AD. Today, Jews came to India in about
Sikh priest reciting verses from the Adi church services have been 562 BC and now live mainly
Granth in the Golden Temple, Amritsar Indianized to a large extent in Mumbai and Cochin.
Christianity
The rise of Christianity in
this region dates to the late
15th century when Catholic
missionaries travelled to India
in the wake of Portuguese
traders. About this time,
Christian Armenian
communities also settled
in Mughal India, procuring
a licence to trade. There is
evidence that the Mughal Jain nuns cover their mouths to avoid swallowing insects, in respect of all life forms
The Pantheon of Gods

and Goddesses
The great pantheon of Hindu gods and goddesses
is a bewildering array, ranging from anthropomorphic
symbols and shapes to exotic half-human, half-animal
forms. Each god has a personal vahana (vehicle) and
symbols of power. Although community worship takes
place in temples, especially on festivals, for most Hindus,
the home with its own shrine and personal deities is Lakshmi, the goddess of
where the daily puja (prayer) is conducted. wealth, is also the consort of
Shesh Nag is the
Vishnu. Her vahana is an owl.
hundred-headed
leviathan on whose
coils Vishnu reclines.
Narada, the sage,

accompanies
Vishnu.
Ganesha,
remover of
obstacles.
Saraswati, the goddess of

learning and music, is the
consort of Brahma and has
a swan as her vahana. Seated
on a lotus, with a garland of
white flowers, she is seen as
the embodiment of purity.
Hanuman, the
monkey god, is a
faithful attendant
of Lord Rama. Vishnu, the Preserver, floats on
Kshirsagar (the sacred ocean),
the source of all life.
Religious Symbols Kamal (“lotus”) Chakra

is a Vaishnavite (“wheel”) is
symbol for purity. a universal
symbol of the
wheel of life.
Om, a symbol of Trishul

the primal sound, (“trident”) Shankh
is recited to start is a Shaivite (“conch shell”) is
all religious symbol of a Vaishnavite symbol
ceremonies. ascetism. of the life-giving ocean.
Rama (right), the epitome of virtue,

was Vishnu’s seventh avatara
(incarnation), and
Krishna (left), the
embodiment of love,
was the eighth.
Vishnu is said to
assume these
avataras to save the
Ganesha, the Hanuman the monkey world from destruction.
elephant-headed son god (see p201), is The last avatara, Kalki,
of Shiva, is invoked invoked by those will fashion a new world
at the start of any in need of courage when this one
auspicious task. and fortitude. reaches the end
of its time.
Brahma sits on a lotus
attached to Vishnu’s navel. Shiva lives atop
Mount Kailash. The
Nandi, the bull, is
River Ganges flows
Shiva’s vehicle and
from his matted locks.
is always present at
Shiva temples.
Garuda, the half

eagle, is Vishnu’s
vehicle on his
travels through
the cosmos.
Parvati lives in the

Himalayan hills with
Shiva. This gentle
daughter of the
mountains is
worshipped in many
forms, which
collectively
represent the Devi
(goddess) cult.
Durga rides a tiger with

her deadly arsenal of
weapons and destroys
evil, in the form of
the buffalo-demon
The Holy Trinity Mahishasura.
She is the fierce
A popular calendar art depiction of the
persona of the
Holy Trinity, that comprises Brahma gentle Parvati.
the Creator, Vishnu the Preserver,
and Shiva the Destroyer. Vishnu
mediates between Brahma and
Shiva to preserve life. The world
was created when the ocean was
churned by the gods and demons
(see p49) to extract the divine
nectar (amrit). The present age
(Kaliyuga) is only one stage of
the unending cycle of life. Kali, wearing a garland of
skulls, rampages through
creation, annihilating evil.
Along with Durga, she is the
patron goddess of many Rajput
clans who lived by the sword.
Architecture: A Brief History

In North India, monumental architecture followed historical
and political change. The wide variety of styles that emerged
were executed in a distinctly “Indian” way, influenced by climate
and local building traditions. Sadly, few buildings before the
12th century survived the ravages of time, war and climate, but
the region is rich in medieval remains, of which the Taj Mahal is
the centrepiece. An interesting feature is the mingling of Hindu
and Islamic styles, which blends the sensuous beauty of temple
sculpture with the austere grandeur of Islamic architecture.
Gardens, fountains, screened arches and shaded interiors
are some features used for keeping buildings cool. Carved niche at Agra Fort
Early Indian Architecture (Up to 12th Century) The shikhara is

The temple was the social a pointed arch
and economic focus of a over the sanctum.
town. Early Hindu temples,
built on a square base,
follow sacred building
rules. The deity lies
within the sanctum, The mandapa is
Carved frieze on shikhara a hall in front of
and the outer surface the sanctum.
is profusely decorated.
Garbhagriha, the
womb-like inner
sanctum sanctorum.
The entrance
is spanned
by a square
Piled stone stone lintel,
blocks raise the carved with
temple’s height sacred images.
Teli ka Mandir (9th century) at Gwalior

(see p178) is a rare example of a North
Indian temple of that time.
Sultanate Architecture (13th to 15th Centuries)

Islamic arches
Techniques for constructing true are often trimmed
arches and domes were learnt by The dome is with a Hindu lotus
Indian masons from the Muslims crowned with bud fringe.
after the 12th century. Mortar, a finial.
another significant technology
transfer, made it possible to build
A sandstone and high structures. Hindu carving
marble panel skills added a new element to the
Islamic architectural lexicon.
Geometric
ornamentation is
an Islamic feature.
Detail of a geometric panel
Alai Darwaza (c.1311) in Delhi, with one of

the oldest surviving domes, is one of the
gems of early Islamic architecture (see p116).
Mughal Architecture (16th to Late 18th Centuries)

Mughal buildings awe the viewer and assert the
exalted status of their imperial patron. Whether The chhatri is adapted
built of red sandstone or marble, symmetry, from Rajput architecture.
grandeur and landscaping are some common
features. Inlay work, decorative jaalis and cusped The pishtaq
arches give these buildings an ethereal grace is a recessed
arch niche
that offsets their massive size. within a frame.
Minarets give
symmetry and grace
to the building.
Jaali is
extensively used
for privacy and
ventilation.
Decorative
panels are inlaid
with precious
stones.
Decorative panel on façade Gateway of Akbar’s tomb at Sikandra (see p164)
Colonial Architecture (19th to Early 20th Centuries)

The European classical style was introduced during the
British Raj. A later development was the Indo-Saracenic
style, a marriage of the Victorian Gothic with Indian
decorative elements, visible in 19th-century universities,
municipal offices and railway stations. New Delhi, built
by Lutyens between 1912–31 (see p72),
marks the end of this phase.
Neo-Classical frontage of Hyderabad House,
Balustraded New Delhi (see p75)
terraces Clock tower
Colonnaded
Portico
verandahs
Ajmer’s Mayo College, built in the Indo-Saracenic style in 1875 (see p223)
Bungalows
An architectural legacy of the Raj,
originally designed to house Europeans
living in remote outposts, bungalows have
broad, covered verandahs, a front porch
and a balustraded roof. The term was a Government bungalow in New Delhi (see p73)
corruption of “Bangla”, or Bengal,
for its basic structure was derived from the indigenous Bengali rural hut. Until 1947, few bungalows
outside towns had running water or electricity but their high ceilings and shaded interiors kept
them dark and cool in summer. However, when Herbert Baker (see p72) designed a bungalow for
New Delhi’s mandarins, its unhappy occupants christened his airless edifice “Baker’s Oven”.
Architectural Styles
Some of India’s finest forts and palaces lie in this region. Forts often served both as
defensive buildings and as self-sufficient walled cities, built along natural outcrops or near
rivers. Palaces were either part of a fort complex, or individual royal residences with public
and private spaces separated by gardens and courtyards. Later, during the Raj, fortified
palaces gave way to stately mansions inspired by European models. The beautiful garden
tombs, of which the Taj is the most famous example, were a Mughal innovation. In contrast
to these are rural houses that blend into the landscape. These eco-friendly structures, based
on indigenous building skills, are well insulated, and both cheap and easy to build.
Forts
Most Mughal forts, built of red sandstone with
marble trimmings, contained a city complex
with private and public areas and were seats Ramparts have pierced
of imperial power. Rajput forts, like Amber (see holes for cannons.
pp204–5) and Gwalior (see p178), on the other
hand, follow a different plan and their solid
bastions were built primarily for self-defence. The burj acted as
a watchtower.
Foundation inscription from

the Red Fort
Lahore Gate is
named after the
direction it faced.
Red Fort at Delhi (see pp98–9)
Palaces
Some of the region’s most A grand flight of
The bangaldar roof
spectacular palaces date to steps leads to the The simple
is crowned with
the 19th century in a style gorgeous interior. exterior conceals
decorative spikes.
that imitated English stately a rich interior.
homes. The older, medieval
palaces nestle within forts
and had separate quarters
for men (mardana) and
women (zenana) with
landscaped gardens and
private mosques or temples.
Samode Palace, built in the 19th century and now a heritage hotel
(see pp236–7), has fabulously gilded and mirrored rooms. It is built in
the traditional design but has period furniture rather than the usual
Detail from a mirrored room cushions and floor coverings used in older palaces.
Glossary of Terms
The Garden Tomb Baoli Underground stepwell,
The charbagh (see p171) is a such as Ugrasen’s Baoli (see p80).
terraced garden that surrounds
the tomb to give its austere lines Burj Residential or fortificatory tower;
a soft focus. The Taj Mahal, set at also bastion.
the edge of one, is the most
Chajja Overhanging
famous example of this style.
eaves or cornices
to protect
buildings
The dome Arched from the
surmounts the cloisters lead sun and rain.
central space. to the crypt.
Chhatri Open
square or Chhatri
Humayun’s tomb octagonal pavilion,
(see p87) is one of literally an umbrella.
the earliest Mughal
garden tombs, Diwan-i-Aam Hall of
which were set Public Audience.
on a raised plinth
within a charbagh. Diwan-i-Khas Hall
of Private
Other features
Audience.
include a private
mosque and crypts Gumbad/
for other royal graves. gumbaz Dome,
Gumbad often crowned
with a finial; the
Traditional Houses Thatched roofs
term is also used for a
Mud walls are keep the interiors
Indian villagers reinforced with cool and shaded. mausoleum.
usually live in simple straw and cowdung.
houses made of local Ritual paintings Jharokha
brighten mud walls. Overhanging oriel
material, often mud
window supported
and thatch. They have on brackets; some
cool, shaded interiors were used for the
and are brightly official appearances
decorated on the of the ruler.
outside. Building
materials come from Masjid Mosque.
Jharokha
the land and are
Mihrab Arched niche
renewed annually
facing Mecca in a mosque.
at Diwali (see p41). A rural Indian house at Mandawa (see p217)
Minar Free-standing
tower such as the Qutb
Havelis Minar (see p116).
The terrace gave an
The haveli, a multi-storeyed mansion for airy overview of the
wealthy merchant families, was usually Mohalla Quarter of town
surroundings.
inhabited by members
built around one or more courtyards which
Covered of one caste.
formed a focal point for the domestic activity
verandahs
of the joint family. Shekhawati’s painted separated living Namazgah Space near
havelis (see pp216–17) are examples of areas into smaller mosque for celebration
this architectural style. private units. of major Muslim
Minar festivals.
Qila Castle, fortress, citadel.
Sheesh Mahal Chamber

profusely decorated with
mirror mosaic; glass palace.
Stambha Stately pillar, post or

column.
Stupa Tumulus, burial or

Haveli of the Bhartiya family, Shekhawati region reliquary mound. Stambha
Music, Dance and Theatre

India’s performing arts are simultaneously modes of
worship and a joyous celebration of life. Music and dance
originated in the temples, gradually acquiring a secular,
more sensuous character as royal patrons founded
individual schools (gharanas). Two prominent classical Qawwalis and bhajans are
forms in this region are Kathak and Hindustani music. devotional songs that go back
to medieval Sufi and Bhakti
The artiste creates a mood (rasa) which invites the cults. Sung intensely to arouse
audience to participate in it so as to make the mystical ecstasy, they celebrate
performance a mutually shared experience. the power of divine love.
Hands are used in stylized

Raslila, a folk variation mudras, symbolic
of Kathak, narrates movements that
the life of Lord Krishna. follow the Natya
Shastra, a classic
Traditionally, the
treatise on the
Ramlila (below) performing arts.
and the Raslila
featured
young boys.
Lehenga, a long
skirt worn over
tight pyjamas,
accentuates the
swirling movement
of the dancer.
Ramlila enacts the story of the epic Ramayana

in a cycle of ten episodic folk plays during
the Dussehra festival (see p41).
Hindustani Music Late Pandit Ravi

The origins of Hindustani music date to about 3000 Shankar, one of India’s
foremost sitar players,
BC and the Sama Veda (see p311). The raga (melodic
introduced classical
mode) and tala (rhythmic cycle) are the foundation
music to the West.
of Indian classical music, of which the Dhrupad and
the Khayal are two major vocal styles. Indian Amjad Ali Khan belongs
classical music has no formal notational score, to a famous family
giving artistes a wide scope to elaborate the mood of sarod players,
of a raga, each with its own set of notes. To who developed
preserve individuality, knowledge was passed the rabab, a
down orally from teacher to pupil through schools medieval lute
called gharanas. The Gwalior gharana (see p178) is from Central Asia,
said to be the oldest one in the region. to its present form.
Nine rasas (moods) are

mentioned in the 4th-century
treatise Natya Shastra. From
the erotic, comic and pathetic
to the odious, marvellous
and quiescent, rasa covers
every mood and expression,
whether in music or painting.
This 17th-century Ragamala
painting (see pp36–7) depicts
the mood of the morning
Raga Todi.
Rapid body
movements
keep time with
Nautch Girl was the pejorative
the beat of the title given to dancing girls in
accompanying the 19th century when Kathak
percussionist. became mere entertainment.
Gorgeous jewellery and the

Ghungroos are brass colour red on the hands and
bells that aid the feet make the intricacies of
rhythmic beat. Foot the dance easy to see.
stamping controls and
varies their sound.
Kathak
This North Indian classical dance
form, which received lavish
patronage in the court of
Jaipur, derives from the
epic tales (kathas)
narrated by balladeers.
A typical Kathak
performance is a
blend of complex
footwork and facial
expressions (abhinaya) to enact
an episode, often from Krishna’s life.
Shiv Kumar Sharma popularized

the santoor, an Indian stringed
instrument, by being the first to
use it to play classical music.
Zakir Hussain
plays the tabla, a pair Contemporary theatre draws on classical
of drums that Sanskrit and folk drama (above). Avant-garde
provide percussion street plays are popular with fringe and protest
to most music and theatre groups. The National School of Drama
dance performances. (see p124) often produces Indian adaptations
of classics, such as King Lear and Macbeth.
Painting
Two distinct schools of painting, Rajput and Mughal,
emerged in 16th-century North India. The meteoric
growth and popularity of miniature painting was due
to the introduction of paper as well as the lavish patronage
of Muslim and Rajput rulers. The Mughals encouraged
Persian miniature painters to settle in India where they
came into contact with indigenous traditions. A fusion Jain palm leaf manuscripts,
of the two styles under the rulers Akbar, Jahangir and such as this piece (c.1439), use
Shah Jahan led to a burst of artistic activity when court bright primary colours. Their
painters, such as Mansur, produced folios of birds, flowers, large-eyed human figures and
narrative depiction of themes
royal portraits and illustrated manuscripts. As Mughal influenced early Rajput art.
patronage declined in the 18th century, other regional
centres of art developed in North India. Monsters symbolize the threats
to Krishna at birth.
Early Mughal paintings were

pictorial narratives of historical
events and literary texts. This leaf
from a 16th-century Babur Nama
shows Babur crossing the River Son.
Mughal landscapes are rendered
realistically, unlike the more
romantic Rajput allegories.
Space is divided
into units, each
dealing with a
separate episode
of the story.
Ragamalas are sets

of paintings, strung like
Rajput paintings are a garland, that depict
known for their bright the mood of individual
colours and stylized ragas (see p34). This
figures. Classical texts 17th-century Ragini
and religious figures Dev-Gandhari, an early
are recurrent subjects, morning raga, has
such as this 18th- dainty figures, and the
century page from the delicate floral border
Rasikapriya romance that was a hallmark
of the Bundi School. of Mughal paintings.
Pahari painting emerged

from the hill (pahari) states of
the western Himalayas, where
many artists went in search of
work after the decline of Mughal
patronage. Raja Sansar Chand of
Kangra, a patron of this style, can
be seen in this late 18th-century
Pahari painting.
Nature is depicted in Narrative progression Human faces are

metaphorical terms, as shows the growth of drawn in profile and
in the snake-like ripples Krishna from infancy space lacks
of lightning. to boyhood. perspective.
Colours and
pigments were
extracted from
precious stones
and plants.
The Company School
flourished in the colonial
period. This portrait of King
Edward VII and Queen
Alexandra, attired in Indian
clothes and ornaments, was
painted by a local artist as a
specially commissioned work.
Rajput Miniatures
Rajput ateliers were named after their patron
courts (see p219), each with a distinctive style,
such as this 18th-century Mewar miniature,
Krshna Revealing his Divinity as Visnu to
his Parents. Rajput paintings have a narrative
theme – a court episode or a mythological
tale. Unlike Mughal paintings, their treatment
of space and the natural world is poetic rather
than realisitic and evokes a musical mood or
rasa (see p34). Baramasa (cycle of seasons)
and Ragamala (garland of ragas) paintings
are famous examples of this romantic style.
Contemporary Indian Art

A nationalist poet, musician, philosopher and educationalist, Rabindranath
Tagore (d.1941) pioneered the 19th-century Bengal Renaissance art
movement, which was a step towards the modernist impulse in Indian
art. He drew heavily on the rich mythic content of folk art. Later, Amrita
Shergill (d.1941) brought a European style to Indian themes and scenes.
Contemporary Indian art evolved from the work of these and other seminal
artists. Yet it retained an Indian identity even when experimenting with
fashionable European styles. Modern Indian artists have taken inspiration
from Tantric symbols, mythology and miniature paintings to produce
a vibrant art style which has tried to retain the richness of its folk and
classical art forms even as they work with different media and materials. Head Study, Rabindranath Tagore
Indian Design
Indian design has evolved out of a very close bond
between the artist and his craft, in which the skill of
the hand is regarded as a sacred gift, passed down from
father to son in an unbroken line. This has ensured a design
tradition that is both a living art form as well as a means
of fulfilling the everyday needs of the community, be they
Geometric designs, or
sacred or functional. Freely enriched by the traditions of rangolis, form the base of
other races and cultures, India’s artistic heritage is renowned traditional decoration.
throughout the world for its vibrancy and creativity.
Mud and thatch are
regarded as sacred
media, being the gift
of Mother Earth.
The rounded
shape of the Pottery has a 5,000-year-old history
pot has not (see pp48–9) making it one of the
changed since world’s oldest skills. The potter’s
2500 BC.
wheel produces cheap, eco-
friendly objects of daily use.
The wheel or chakra is

regarded as a symbol
of the eternal circle of
life and death. Lime wash applied on the
mud surface adds colour
and repels pests.
The living space

is embellished with
surface decorations
ranging from relief
carvings to mirror-work.
Whether a mud hut
or palace, the Indian
home is the origin
of most forms of art.
Colour
The colours of Indian design are taken from nature, with names
to match. The five shades of white are lyrically compared to the
clouds when the rain is spent, the August moon, conch shell, jasmine
flower and the surf of the sea. Indigo, madder and turmeric are valued
for their dyes, and the crushed flowers of the flame of the forest
(Butea monosperma) yield a soft yellow colour still used in rural India
for playing Holi (see p40). Each colour has a ritual significance as well:
red is auspicious, celebratory and associated with weddings and
festivals, saffron symbolizes renunciation, yellow is worn during
the spring festival of Vasant, and green in the monsoon. The Indian
dyer (right) uses plants and roots for extracting colour. A dyer at work
Animal and flower motifs can be seen

everywhere. The most elegant floral patterns
were perfected in Mughal and Rajput painting
(see pp36–7), while the popular lotus and
The
peacock
peacock motifs are inherent to Buddhist and
is a popular Hindu temple iconography. Worked in a variety
symbol of of forms these motifs are most visible in textiles,
royalty. carpets, painting, jewellery, ceramics and
zardozi (see p157).
The lotus
is associated
with grace
The poppy, the
and purity. iris, narcissus and
tulip are textile
Paisley motifs are motifs inspired
stylized representa- by Mughal art.
tions of the mango
and cypress.
Marble inlay can be traced
to Mughal pietra dura
(see pp160–61). Agra still has
families of craftsmen whose
ancestors worked at the
Mughal court.
Precious stones Floral patterns,

such as amethyst, inspired by the
lapis, carnelian and Islamic paradise
jade are inlaid by garden concept,
hand on marble. are common.
Home and Family

The earliest art objects were those needed for
everyday life. Emerging from the home and its daily
rituals, the shape and form of articles was based on
religious symbols which ensured their survival down
the ages. With time, sophisticated materials and
techniques learnt from royal courts enhanced
design consciousness, resulting in a more
exclusive range of decorative art.
Wall paintings
are often inspired
by nature.
Flame of Form and function are

the forest Spices equally important in Indian
design, endowing even
everyday utility objects
with beauty. As architectural
skills developed over
the centuries, basic forms
and materials became more
sophisticated. This graceful
Saffron turban A vermilion-daubed shrine trellised stone window is an
example of this change.
Festivals in India streets, sprinkling coloured water

and powder (gulal) on each
Indians love celebrations. Festivals are both religious and other. This lively festival was
social events, where ritual fasting and joyful feasting often especially dear to Lord Krishna.
go hand in hand. Hindu festivals usually follow the lunar
calendar and both the full moon (purnima) and the new Vasant (Mar–May)
moon (pradosh) are considered auspicious. Some fairs and The Hindu year begins with
festivities are connected to the pantheon of gods and Vasant (spring). Nine days of
goddesses, others to ancient pastoral, fertility or martial fasting (navaratris) precede
rites. Muslim festivals, too, are determined by the new moon. the birth of Rama (see p29) on
This means that the dates of festivals vary from year to year. Ramnavami. During this period,
most households prepare
special vegetarian foods, which
Shishir (Jan–Mar) On the tenth and final day, are cooked in ghee (clarified
This is the most auspicious impressive processions of butter) without garlic or onions.
period in the Indian calendar. tazias (replicas of his tomb) Muslims celebrate Milad-ul-
Lohri and Makar Sankranti are taken out and young boys Nabi, the birthday of the Prophet
follow one another in early and men, dressed in black, in March. The pastoral festival of
January. The former is observed flagellate themselves Baisakhi on 13 April heralds the
mainly by Punjabis as the in a frenzy of religious harvest season in North India,
height of winter, and the fervour. The occurence of and is celebrated with singing
latter, confined to Jaipur, this festival varies, depend- and dancing. Later in the month
marks the movement ing on the beginning comes Shitala Ashtami, a
of the sun from the of the lunar calendar. Rajasthani folk festival to com-
equator to the In February, devotees memorate Shitala Devi, goddess
Tropic of Capricorn. of Shiva observe of smallpox and a manifestation
The wind usually Shivaratri, or the night of Durga. A religious fair that is
changes direction of his celestial wedding attended by many villagers
on this day and to Parvati. Holi, one of .is held at the Chaksu temple
colourful kites the most important (see p226). Christians celebrate
fill the sky. Hindu festivals in this Good Friday, to commemorate
Vasant Panchami, A child enjoying the region, takes place on the crucifixion of Christ, and
towards the end festivities of Holi a full-moon night, and Easter, the resurrection of
of January, is said is celebrated as the end Christ, at this time as well.
to be the first day of spring. Shia of winter, usually in March. On
Muslims also observe Muharram, the eve of Holi, bonfires are lit
a ten-day period of mourning and an effigy of the demon Grishma (May–Jun)
for the martyrdom of the Holika is burnt to signify the As the heat intensifies,
Prophet’s grandson, Hazrat triumph of good over evil. The the festival season comes
Imam Hussain, at Karbala (Iraq). next day, people swarm the to a halt. The most sacred
Holi celebrations in the villages of Brajbhumi, near Mathura

of Buddhist festivals, Buddha

Jayanti or Buddha Purnima
is celebrated (see p42).
Varsha (Jul–Sep)
With the monsoon comes
Janmashtami, the birth of
Lord Krishna on a moonless
night. Celebrations reach
their peak at midnight, while
the day is given to fasting.
The Urs, one of the biggest
Muslim fairs in the subcontinent, Muslim pilgrims gathered at the Urs in Ajmer
takes place in Ajmer. It is held
over 13 days at the dargah of fireworks to be set alight the festival of lights, marks
the great Sufi saint Moinuddin on the last day, Vijaya Dashami. Rama’s joyous entry into
Chishti (see pp224–5). Onam Dussehra is preceded by Ayodhya when the town
heralds the harvest season the navaratri fasts. Bengalis was lit with lamps to greet
in Kerala, and falls between celebrate this period as Durga him. It also heralds the Hindu
August and September. Puja, when grand marquees New Year when old accounts
Ganesh Chaturthi is a (pandals) are erected over are closed. Hindus believe
10-day event in honour of images of the goddess Durga. that Lakshmi, the goddess
the birth of Lord Ganesha. In October, Id-ul-Fitr marks of wealth, visits her devotees
It is marked by ceremonious the end of Ramadan or on that night, so houses are
processions of Ganesha’s idols. Ramzan, the month of fasting painted, sweets exchanged,
for Muslims, commemorating and a profusion of melas
the period when the Prophet encourages wild spending
received the message of the on homes and clothes.
Koran from Allah. The actual Bhai Duj, two days later,
day of celebration varies is a family festival in honour
according to the sighting of brothers, who give gifts
of the new moon. A special to their sisters.
namaaz is held at Delhi’s Another festival soon after
Jami Masjid. This festival is Diwali is Govardhan Puja
also called Mithi (sweet) Id, or Annakut, celebrated in
as sewian, a delicacy made both Rajasthan and Mathura.
with sweetened vermicelli, It commemorates the day
is prepared in celebration. Lord Krishna lifted the
Govardhan
hillock on his
Painting of Dussehra effigies that Hemant (Nov–Jan) little finger to
will later be set alight The onset of the winter season protect the
ushers in cool days and a large area from a
Sharad (Sep–Oct) number of festivals. Diwali, or deluge sent
This season of festivals begins by an irate Indra,
with Dussehra. For ten days, the god of rain.
Ramlilas (see p34) are held On the full moon A parrot-shaped
and fairs organized to celebrate after Diwali, Sikhs paper kite
the legend of Rama. These celebrate Guru
dramatize episodes from the Purab, the birthday of Guru
Ramayana: the exile of Rama, Nanak, the founder of Sikhism.
his brother Lakshman and In Rajasthan, the Pushkar Fair
wife Sita. Her abduction by (see pp220–21) attracts throngs
the demon-king Ravana of of tourists as well as pilgrims
Lanka and the epic battle for and herdsmen. Christmas
her rescue glorifies the monkey and New Year, now national
god, Hanuman, who helped festivals, are celebrated with
Rama defeat Ravana and return flair all over the country.
in triumph to Ayodhya. Huge At this time, restaurants fill
effigies of Ravana, his brother A variety of Diwali crackers are available and brightly-lit streets bustle
and his son are stuffed with at pavement stalls during the festival with throngs of busy shoppers.
DELHI, AGRA & JAIPUR

THROUGH THE YEAR
Three definite seasons, the summer, communities. Some follow the changing
monsoon and winter, with a brief but seasons and mark pastoral occasions,
glorious spring and autumn, span while others celebrate anniversaries and
the year in the region. The calendar is events of national importance such as the
filled with festivals and fairs celebrated Republic Day (see p75). Most cultural
by each of the diverse religious or local shows are held during the winter.
Summer (Mar–Jun)
From mid-March until June
the North Indian plains
experience a hot and dry
summer. The temperatures
in March and April can be mild
and variable, but by May and
June the heat builds up to a
crescendo with the mercury
rising up to 46° C (114° F).
This is a signal for many
residents to move to the
Himalayan hill stations. Those
who stay back remain indoors Procession of Buddhist lamas on Buddha Jayanti
and only venture out after
sunset. Most festivities, too, symbolize Hindu-Muslim Bejewelled images of the
come to a halt at this point. unity. Its origins date to the goddess are carried through
Holi (Mar). This exuberant late-17th century when local the city, escorted by bullock-
festival of colour marks the leaders decided to merge drawn chariots, bands of
end of winter. In and around festivities held concurrently musicians and women
Brindavan (see p166), Holi at both shrines. Today, this singing hymns. Shankarlal
celebrations last two weeks. is more a fun-filled carnival Sangeet Sammelan (Mar),
Elephant Festival (Mar), than a religious event (see Delhi. This is the capital’s
Jaipur. Around Holi, 60 p87). Jahan e Khusrau (Mar), oldest classical vocal and
decorated elephants parade Delhi. The three-day instrumental music festival.
through the streets bearing international Sufi music Baisakhi (13 Apr). On this day
revellers who throw colour at festival is one of the city’s Gobind Singh, the last Sikh
one another. Elephant polo most eagerly awaited events. guru, founded the Khalsa, the
matches are also held at Performances are held at “Holy Army of the Pure”. Gala
Chaugan Stadium. Humayun’s tomb. ITC Sangeet processions, dancing
Nauchandi Mela (Mar), Sammelan (Mar), Delhi and feasting mark the
Meerut. Held around (sometimes held in Calcutta). occasion. It also signals the
the shrine of a Muslim This important Hindustani onset of summer and the
saint and a temple, classical music event, start of the harvest season.
this fair has come to sponsored by a major Indian Urs (Apr), Delhi. For three days
industrial house, devotees of the Sufi saint
Elephant attracts music- Nizamuddin Auliya (see p86)
Festival lovers from far celebrate his birth anniversary
and wide. with night-long qawwalis and
Gangaur a funfair. Buddha Jayanti
Festival (May), Delhi. The Buddha’s
(Mar/Apr), birth, his attaining
Jaipur. For enlightenment, and his death
18 days, all fell on the full moon of the
new brides fourth lunar month. Prayer
and young girls meetings are held at Delhi’s
worship Gauri, one of the Buddha Jayanti Park. National
manifestations of Parvati, Film Festival (Jul), Delhi.
the consort of Shiva. During this two-week-long
DELHI, AGRA & JAIPUR THROUGH THE YEAR 43
Average Daily Hours of Sunshine Sunshine Chart

Ranging from balmy
Hours to fiercely hot, North India
12
has sunshine through the
10 year. To those unaccustomed
to tropical weather, even
8
the winter afternoons of
6 this region may be uncom-
4
fortably warm. Sun hats,
dark glasses, sunblock
2 and several glasses a
0 day of mineral water are
Jan Feb Mar Apr May Jun Jul Aug Sep Oct Nov Dec highly recommended.
festival, regional films from

India, that have won awards
and acclaim, are screened at
the large Siri Fort Auditorium.
Summer Theatre Festival
(May/Jun), Delhi. A theatre
festival is organized by the
National School of Drama.
Monsoon (Jul–Aug)
July, August and most of
September are hot and humid
with intermittent showers.
All newspapers eagerly report
the progress of the southwest
monsoon and though rainfall is
scanty in the region, this season Popular belief maintains that a dancing peacock heralds the much-awaited monsoon
is celebrated for its magical
transformation of the earth. Raksha Bandhan (full moon in are performed, and in Delhi,
Mango Festival (early Jul), Delhi. Aug). Young girls tie sacred there are shows of Krishna
Held at the peak of the threads (rakhis) on their brothers’ Katha, a dance-drama on the
mango season, over wrists as a token of love, and Krishna story.
1,000 varieties of receive in exchange gifts and a
delicious mangoes promise of everlasting protection. National Holidays
grown in North Janmashtami (Aug). Krishna’s
India are on birth is celebrated all over Republic Day (26 Jan)
view at the India. In Brindavan, Raslilas Independence Day (15 Aug)
Talkatora Gandhi Jayanti (2 Oct)
Stadium.
Teej (Aug), Public Holidays
Jaipur. Young Shivaratri (Feb)
Shehnai player girls, dressed Holi (Mar)
at Teej in green, sing Id-ul-Zuha (Mar)
songs and play
on specially erected swings. Good Friday (Apr)
This joyous event venerates Baisakhi (13 April)
Parvati, the goddess of marital Ramnavami (Apr)
harmony. It also heralds Mahavir Jayanti (Apr/May)
the advent of the much
Buddha Jayanti (May)
awaited monsoon.
Independence Day (15 Aug). Milad-ul-Nabi (May/Jun)
This is a national holiday, Janmashtami (Aug)
commemorating India’s Dussehra (Oct)
freedom from British rule
Diwali (Oct/Nov)
in 1947. The Prime Minister
addresses the nation from Guru Purab (Nov)
the ramparts of the historic Public gathering for the Prime Minister’s Christmas (25 Dec)
Red Fort in Delhi. speech on Independence Day, Red Fort
Average Monthly Rainfall

Rainfall Chart
MM Inches
200 8
Apart from local showers,
this region receives its rain
160 mostly during the south-
6
west monsoon, which lasts
120 from July to September.
4 The landscape turns lush
80 green but the humidity,
2 sometimes as high as
40
90 per cent, makes this the
0 0 wrong season for travelling
Jan Feb Mar Apr May Jun Jul Aug Sep Oct Nov Dec in the plains of North India.
Dussehra (Oct). A nine-day balloons dot the sky.

Winter (Oct–Feb) festival enacting episodes from Tansen Festival (Nov), Gwalior.
This is the perfect season when the Ramayana depicting Rama’s Classical singers pay homage
the monsoon has cleared the battle against Ravana. The tenth to the famous Indian musician,
dust haze and the days begin day, Vijaya Dashami, celebrates Tansen, Mughal emperor Akbar’s
to grow cooler. The onset of Rama’s defeat of Ravana, and favourite court musician.
winter also marks the sowing huge effigies of the demon-king, Chrysanthemum Show (1st week
of winter crops such as mustard. his brother and son are burnt. Dec), Delhi. The YWCA organizes
The chill in the air is at its worst In Delhi, the Shriram Bharatiya a display of exquisite blooms.
between mid-December and Kala Kendra’s month-long Kathak Utsav (Dec), Delhi.
mid-January, and though dance-drama Exponents of this
temperatures often fall encapsulates the North Indian
below 3° C (37° F), much-loved epic. dance
the days are Diwali (Oct/Nov). form enthrall
sunny. Spring Oil lamps illuminate audiences
is the main each home to with their
season for commemorate artistry.
weddings, Rama’s return to The Prithvi
parades, picnics, Ayodhya after 14 years Theatre Festival
polo and cricket of exile. Sweets are (Dec), Delhi. Mumbai-
matches, flower exchanged and fire- based group, formed in
shows and crackers are lit in exuberant memory of Prithviraj Kapoor,
various other celebration. During hosts a theatre fest
cultural events. this period every A hot-air balloon at in collaboration with
Cricket, the Gandhi Jayanti locality holds the Balloon Mela Max Mueller Bhavan
national obsession (2 Oct). Mahatma Diwali melas. and the National
Gandhi’s birth- Parampara Festival (Nov), Delhi School of Drama. Christmas (25
day is widely celebrated as and Hyderabad. Dec). A public holiday,
a national holiday. A cultural event for lovers Christmas is celebrated all over
Phoolwalon ki Sair (early Oct), of classical music and dance and is an occasion for everyone
Delhi. A colourful procession of involving some of the country’s to shop, feast and party.
floral banners and fans from the leading artistes. New Year’s Eve (31 Dec).
Jogmaya Temple and the Sufi Pushkar Fair (Nov), Pushkar. All hotels and clubs organize
shrine of Qutbuddin Bakhtiyar Asia’s largest camel and cattle New Year’s Eve balls.
Kaki culminates at Jahaz Mahal fair takes place in this pilgrim Lohri (13 Jan). Bonfires are
in Mehrauli (see pp114–15). town (see pp220–21). lit amidst song and dance
Music and poetry recitations India International Trade Fair to mark the height of winter.
(mushairas) are also held. (14–21 Nov), Delhi.
The IIC Experience (mid Oct), Pragati Maidan hosts
Delhi. Organized by the India this event for Indian
International Centre, the festival industry, exhibiting
celebrates world music, dance, goods manufactured
theatre, film, literature and locally and abroad.
special cuisine. Cultural events
Qutb Festival (Oct), Delhi. A feast are also held in
of Indian classical music and dance, the grounds.
organized by Delhi Tourism, Balloon Mela (Nov),
is held against the dramatic Delhi. A large number
backdrop of the Qutb Minar. of brightly lined hot-air Cars displayed at the India International Trade Fair
DELHI, AGRA & JAIPUR THROUGH THE YEAR 45
Average Monthly Temperature

Temperature Chart
°C °F This region is hot and
30 90 dry throughout the
25 80 year, barring October
to February. The mercury
20 70
begins to rise from March,
15 60 and by May heat wave
conditions prevail with hot
10 50
and dusty gusts of the loo
5 40 winds. By the end of June,
0 30 however, dark clouds signal
Jan Feb Mar Apr May Jun Jul Aug Sep Oct Nov Dec the onset of the monsoon.
from Statesman House

to embark on a 20-km
(12-mile) journey. Their
owners often dress up
in period costumes.
Vasant Panchami (Feb).
A spring festival when
crops ripen and nature is
in full bloom. People wear
yellow and worship Saraswati.
Taj Mahotsav (18–27 Feb),
Agra. A ten-day cultural fiesta
of music and dance in the
vicinity of the Taj Mahal.
The event showcases India’s
Bagpipers at the Beating Retreat ceremony vibrant arts, crafts and cuisines.
Shivaratri (Feb). Night-long
Makar Sankranti (14 Jan), 11th-century historic site celebrations mark the wedding
Jaipur. Kites are flown to on the outskirts of the capital. of Shiva on the 14th day of
celebrate the return of International Yoga Week a lunar fortnight. Offerings
the sun from the equator (Feb–Mar), Rishikesh. On the are made to Shiva, and an
to the Tropic of Capricorn. banks of the Ganges, scholars all-day fasting ritual is followed.
Jaipur Literature Festival and students from all over Kathak Bindadin Mahotsav
(mid Jan) Jaipur. Originally, the world participate in (Feb), Delhi. A five-day dance
a part of the Jaipur Heritage yoga classes and seminars. festival organized by the
International Festival, it is Vintage Car Rally (Feb), Delhi. Kathak Kendra.
considered to be the biggest The Statesman newspaper Dhrupad Festival (Feb), Delhi.
literature festival in Asia. organizes this event when Leading exponents of this
Republic Day (26 Jan). vintage cars, or the “grand ancient musical tradition
A national holiday. Pomp and old ladies”, are flagged off present a series of recitals.
pageantry mark India’s birth
as an independent republic.
In Delhi, a colourful military
parade is held at Rajpath.
Beating Retreat (29 Jan),
Delhi. A moving ceremony
that recalls the end of the
day’s battle when armies
retreated to their camps.
There is a grand display of
regimental bands performing
against the spectacular back-
drop of North and South Blocks.
As the sun sets, a bugle sounds
the retreat, fireworks are lit and
fairylights outline the buildings.
Surajkund Crafts Mela
(1–14 Feb), Surajkund. This
handicrafts fair is held at an Vintage cars prove their mettle on an uphill road outside Delhi
INTRODUCING DELHI, AGRA & JAIPUR 47
THE HISTORY OF DELHI,

AGRA & JAIPUR
North Indian society sprang from the wide the first major Islamic kingdom in the
plains of the Indus and Ganges rivers, sites region. Later, with the coming of the
of continuous human settlement since Mughals in 1526, North India underwent
about 2500 BC, when a sophisticated urban a process of social and political change
culture flourished along the Indus Valley. that lasted nearly 300 years, as a vibrant
After 600 BC, powerful empires such as the Indo-Islamic cultural fusion took place.
Mauryas, Kushanas and Guptas presided Imperial centralization under the Mughals
over the rise of Buddhism and Hinduism, brought peace and prosperity in its wake,
two major religions that emerged from while art and architecture scaled new
North India. heights of excellence.
Overland trade with Central Asia and the The rise of the British East India
Far East invited conquest and settlement as Company in the 18th century, after
well. Interestingly, India is a derivative of the decline of the Mughals, was the
“Indoi”, a Greek word given to people who start of 200 years of British rule in India.
lived across the River Sindhu, or Indus. From The colonial period, which also marks
1500 BC on, North India was home to immi- the political unification of the subcontinent,
grants. These included the Aryans, Greeks ended in 1947 when India became indepen-
and Parthians, Scythians, Huns and Mongols. dent. Today a mature democracy, India is
An important development took place trying to tackle poverty and illiteracy with
in AD 1192 when Muhammad Ghori economic and political reform in this
displaced the Rajputs from Delhi to found rapidly expanding nation.
A 16th-century Portuguese map of India, locating trading bases in the county

Royal procession, a mid-19th-century mural in the Moti Mahal, Gwalior
Early Civilizations
Indian civilization first flourished between 2500 and
s
du
Ga
1500 BC in the Harappan settlements along the River Indus. I n Mathura ng
es
These sophisticated urban settlements, with an underground
drainage system and well laid out streets, were spread over an
area much larger than either ancient Egypt or Mesopotamia.
The reasons for the decline of this early civilization are still
unclear, but by 1500 BC, the Aryans, who had entered India
through the passes of the Hindu Kush, had settled down in Early Civilizations
northwest India. Sacred texts such as the Rig Veda record Extent of Indus Valley Civilization
aspects of their culture. By 600 BC, with the gradual adoption Extent of Aryan settlements
of widespread crop cultivation, several new urban sites had
emerged in the Ganges Valley. Many of these were capitals
of independent kingdoms, and some cities of that age, such
as Mathura, Patna and Varanasi, still exist.
Copper Harpoon (c.1500 BC)

Copper and bronze implements for farming and
hunting were used in the Indo-Gangetic valley.
Burial urn from a

Harappan site.
Indus Seal (Tree)

Over 2,000 steatite seals have
been found in the Indus Valley,
each with an emblem and a
script that has still not been
fully deciphered.
Platter (c.800 BC)

A Painted Grey Ware
platter from the
Ganges Valley
area. Austere
and functional,
such objects were
made of baked clay.
Early Stone Age relics

Palm leaf manuscript
1500 BC Aryans 1000–600 BC Later Vedic extract from the
migrate to Age. Painted Grey Ware Mahabharata
6000–1000 BC Neolithic or northwest India and iron used
New Stone Age
8000 BC 6000 1000 900
2500–1500 BC Harappan 950 BC

8000–4000 BC 1000 BC Iron
culture flourishes along Mahabharata war
Mesolithic or discovered
the Indus Valley supposed to have
Intermediate been fought
Stone Age 1800–800 BC Regional farming 1600–1000 BC Period of
communities emerge the Rig Veda
THE HISTORY OF DELHI, AGRA & JAIPUR 49
Beliefs and Ideas Where to See

Sacred Rig Vedic hymns, composed Harappan Artifacts
by the Aryans in praise of Nature and
various gods, were later absorbed The finest collection of Indus
into Hinduism. Several Hindu Valley artifacts, arranged chrono-
gods and rituals, even the caste logically, is in New
system (see p26), can be traced Delhi’s National
to Aryan beliefs. Museum
(see pp 76–9).
Some archae-
Harappan dice at the ological finds,
National Museum especially
Painted Grey
Ware from the site of Indraprastha
This toy cart Toy animals testify mentioned in the epic
indicates the use to the Harappan
Mahabharata, are lodged
of the wheel. artisan’s skill.
in a small museum in Delhi’s
Purana Qila itself (see p88). The
state museums at Kurukshetra
(see p144) and Mathura (see
p165) have a good collection
of statues and archaeological
finds excavated from this region.
Baked clay was used

by the Harappans to
shape various objects
such as this anteater.
Grain was stored in

wide-mouthed jars.
Harappan Culture
The Indus Valley (or Harappan) The Origin of Life
Civilization (2500–1500 BC) had an An 18th-century painting
efficient system of government based on depicting the popular Hindu
trade and a thriving agricultural economy. myth that life was created
Worshippers of a mother goddess and when the divine nectar (amrit),
trees, they used water for ritual practice. hidden in the Ocean of Milk,
These Harappan artifacts are in the was won by the gods from
National Museum. the demons (see p29).
600 BC Rise of cities such

as Mathura and Varanasi in 468 BC 315 BC Megasthenes,
Mahavira, 327–325 BC Greek ambassador to
the Ganges Valley
founder of Alexander the India, writes social
486 BC Death of Great in India
Jainism, dies treatise, Indika
the Buddha
600 500 400 300
491–461 BC Reign of 424–321 BC

Ajatshatru, King of Magadha Nanda dynasty 321 BC Accession
of Chandragupta,
600 BC Upanishads, early founder of the
philosophical texts Mauryan dynasty
Indo-Greek coins
Ancient Empires
Under the Mauryan Emperor Ashoka, North India saw its
first large-scale empire. Contact with Central Asia, which
began around 200 BC, determined crucial political alliances
after the Mauryas, and by the 1st century AD, the Kushanas
from Central Asia had an empire that extended as far as the
Ganges Valley. This period also saw the rise and spread of
Buddhism. In the 4th century, the Gupta kings presided over
the flowering of classical Sanskrit at the hands of writers such Early Empires
as Kalidasa. The emergence of the Holy Trinity (see pp28–9) Mauryan Empire
and temple worship also date from the Gupta Age. Kushana Empire
Gupta Empire
Buddhism Speckled red

A peaceful, sandstone was
non-violent extensively used
religion, its in Mathura art.
message of
tolerance and
social equality
won Buddhism
many followers,
among them
the Mauryan
emperor Ashoka. The human form,
sensuously carved,
Its rise had a
has expressive lines.
profound impact The gold ornaments
on social, political and elaborate hair styles
and cultural life. of the figures reflect the
court fashions of the age.
Ashokan Edict
(3rd century BC)
Considered valuable
historical records, such
rock edicts, installed
throughout his kingdom,
proclaim Ashoka’s ethical
code (dhamma) as well
as important events.
273–232 BC
180–165 BC Foundation
Ashoka’s reign of Indo-Greek empire AD 78–110 Reign of
261 BC Battle of Kalinga by Demetrius Kushana king Kanishka;
80 BC Maues, Shaka king
leads Ashoka to Fourth Buddhist Council 2nd-century Buddhist
in northwest India
embrace Buddhism held in Kashmir begging bowl
200 BC 100 BC AD 1 AD 100 200
185 BC 165–130 BC Menander I, AD 20–46

Accession of Indo-Greek king, rules over Gondophernes, Indo- 150 Rudradaman, the Shaka
Sungas in the northwest Parthian king in Taxila; king in West India; first Sanskrit
Magadha St Thomas comes to inscription on imperishable
Mauryan sculpture South India material dates from his reign
Kanishka (AD 78–144)

This famous Kushana king came from Where to See
Central Asia (as the boots and cloak of Ancient Art
his headless statue reveal) to control
a large part of North India. Another The Government
great patron of Buddhism, his reign Museum, Mathura
presided over its spread to China, (see p165) and the
Central Asia and Afghanistan, National Museum,
along the famous Silk Route. New Delhi (see pp76–9)
have fine collections
of Mauryan, Kushana,
Gupta and Sunga
sculptures. The
Northern Ridge
(see p107) and
Yakshas and yakshis, male
Feroze Shah Kotla
and female nature spirits, as (see p101) have Sunga pillar,
well as the foliage behind well-preserved National
them, represent fertility and Ashokan pillars. Museum
an abundance of life. Their
presence highlights the mood
of revelery and fecundity.
Greek features like

curly hair and sharp
noses distinguish
Gandhara sculpture.
Vasantasena, a courtesan,
slumped in a drunken state,
is helped to her feet.
Gandhara
Sculpture
After the 1st
century AD, a
Mathura School of Art distinct Hellenistic
style first emerged in Gandhara in
Between the 1 st and 6th centuries
the northwest. The Buddha was
AD, a renowned school of art now depicted in a sublime human
flourished at Mathura (see p165). form, rather than through symbols
Statues of Jain, Buddhist and such as the lotus and chakra, with
Hindu divinities, with remarkably expressions that recall classical
expressive faces, were produced Greek sculpture.
along with secular art such as this
dramatic 2nd-century Kushana
panel, The Drunken Courtesan.
Iron pillar
300–399 Ramayana, Mahabharata 500–527 Hun control
compiled. Bhagavad Gita written over North India 630–44 Hiuen
Tsang, a Chinese
375–415 Reign of 399–414 Chinese Buddhist scholar,
Chandragupta II traveller Fa Hsien travels in India
in India
300 400 500 600 700
335 Accession 476 Birth of Aryabhatta,

606–47 Harsha’s reign 18th-century painting
of Samudragupta the astronomer
319–20 Accession of of the 4th-century
Chandragupta I, and 712 Arab conquest Gupta erotic treatise,
Gold coin of Kamasutra
establishment of the Samudragupta of Sind
Gupta dynasty
Rajput Dynasties
Rajput clans rose to prominence in North India from Delhi
TOMARS
CHAUHANS
the late 7th century. Claiming a high caste warrior status Sambhar KACHHAWAHAS
CHANDELLAS
(kshatriya), they traced their lineage to the sun and moon PARAMARS
to firmly establish their legitimacy, and ruled over North,

West and Central India. After losing Delhi and Kannauj to
the Muslims, they confined their activities to the western
region, now Rajasthan, where rival clans fought for supremacy.
Widely renowned for their loyalty and valour, most Rajput Locator Map
clans were welcomed as allies by Mughal rulers. Extent of Rajput Kingdoms
Turbans indicate the

home, region and status
of a person.
Prithviraj Chauhan of Ajmer

The last Rajput ruler of Delhi, he was
defeated in 1192 by Muhammad
Ghori. The Qutb Minar and a mosque
were built over his citadel, Rai Pithora.
Pageantry was a vital

part of the Rajput
concept of kingship.
Sacred Beliefs
Rajput kings were patrons
of Hinduism and worshipped
martial gods such as Hanuman Sati Sites
(see p201) and Shakti. They Hand imprints mark the sites where
were also prolific builders women immolated themselves by
of beautiful temples. jumping into their husband’s funeral
pyre. This cruel practice, called sati,
was made illegal in 1829.
736 Dhilika (Delhi)

is founded by the
Rajput Tomaras 800–1036 The
Gurjara-Pratiharas
760 The Palas rule over
rule over Kannauj
Bengal and Bihar
750 775 800
800 Shankaracharya,
11th-century copper the Hindu philosopher,
plate inscriptions challenges Buddhism
of a Rajput king, and Jainism
A Rajput court dress
Raja Chachuka
Man Singh I of Amber

This loyal Mughal ally, one of
the “nine jewels” (navaratna)
of Akbar’s court, was among
the first Rajputs to befriend
the Mughals. Such alliances
paved the way for peace
in North India and a fusion
of Hindu and Islamic
cultures, especially
in architecture.
Rajput Art
Rajput rulers were great patrons of architecture and
painting. This unusual 18th-century miniature from
Jaipur shows Rajput women playing polo (see p199).
Palanquins, such as this
fanciful one, were carried by
a retinue of clansmen during
ceremonial processions.
Where to See
Rajput India
Amber (see pp204–5)
The ruler and the jungle fort at
epitomizes Ranthambhore (see pp228–
the best of
Rajput chivalry
9) are some famous Rajput
and valour. forts in this region. The
museum inside the City
Palace, Jaipur (see pp192–3)
and Alwar (see p210) display
private collections. The
National Museum, New
Delhi, also has a wide
display of Rajput miniature
Weapons are an paintings (see pp36–7),
essential part of sculpture and jewellery.
a Rajput’s attire.
A Royal Procession
Rajput princes enjoyed a divine status in the eyes
of their clan. Rajputana, literally the land of
princes, once had some 21 kingdoms ruled by
rival clans which included the Sisodias of Mewar,
Kachhawahas of Amber and Jaipur, Rathors of
Marwar and Bikaner, Haras of Kota and Bundi,
Amber Fort (see pp204–5)
Chauhans of Ajmer, and Bhattis of Jaisalmer.
973–1192 The Chahamanas 974–1238 The Solankis rule

883–1026 The Hindu of Sakambhari rule Anhilwad in Gujarat
Shahis rule over Kabul over Ajmer, Rajasthan
and the Punjab
875 900 925 950 975
916–1202 The Chandellas rule over 974–1233 The Paramars

Bundelkhand and build the Khajuraho rule Dhar in Central India
temples in Central India
Phad, a Rajput folk 10th-century Khajuraho
painting temple
The Delhi Sultans

The fabulous wealth of India attracted Arab traders and
raiders, such as Mahmud of Ghazni. A slave general of
Muhammad Ghori, called Qutbuddin Aibak, established
himself in North India and founded the Mamluk (Slave)
Dynasty. Followed by the Khiljis, Tughlaqs, Sayyids and
Lodis, these Muslim rulers, called the Sultans of Delhi,
established an empire that survived into the early
16th century and changed the cultural and urban Coming of Islam
milieu of much of the subcontinent by introducing Empire of Mamluks (1236)
new technologies and customs. Empire of Tughlaqs (1335)
Ceramic Tiles
Jamali Kamali
(see p115) has
fine examples of
this Islamic art.
Qutbuddin Aibak
built the first storey of
the Qutb Minar and a
mosque to proclaim his
victory over the Rajputs.
Illustrated Koran (17th century)
The noble Islamic art of calligraphy was
introduced by Muslim rulers and used to
embellish royal decrees, manuscripts and
copies of the Koran, as well as buildings.
Quwwat-ul-Islam,
which means
“Might of Islam”,
was the first
congregational
mosque in Delhi.
Madrasa
and tomb of
Alauddin Khilji
Persian Wheel
The water wheel came in the wake of Muslim
rule. Its simple technology is still used in rural
areas to draw underground water for irrigation.
1000–1027 Mahmud of 1206–10 Reign of Qutbuddin Aibak, founder of the

Ghazni makes 17 raids, Mamluk Dynasty. Erects the Qutb Minar
carries back loot 1221 Mongol invasion
of northwest India led
1175–1192 Invasion of Muhammad Ghori
by Genghis Khan
1050 1100 1150 1200 1250
1266–87 Reign of
1210–36 Reign of Balban
1192 Defeat of Prithviraj Iltutmish
Chauhan in Second Battle 1236–40 Reign of
of Tarain at the hands of Razia, first woman
Sultanate weaponry
Muhammad Ghori ruler of Delhi
Where to See the

Feroze Shah
Tughlaq added Delhi Sultanate
the topmost
storeys in 1368. The Mehrauli area (see pp114–17),
Hauz Khas (see p110), Tughlaqabad
(see p118), Feroze Shah Kotla
(see p101), Purana Qila (see p88)
and Lodi Gardens (see p83)
show the various architectural
styles of the Sultanate. The
Iltutmish, Qutbuddin’s National Museum (see pp76–9)
successor, built has a fine collection of artifacts
the second and dating to this period.
third storeys.
Nizamuddin Auliya
Mystic sages called Sufis were
Alai Darwaza was among the immigrants from
built by Alauddin Central Asia. This 17th-century
Khilji in 1311. miniature shows Nizamuddin
Auliya (see p86) with the poet
Amir Khusrau. Together, they
raised metaphysical love,
poetry and music to the
level of divine worship. Begumpuri Masjid (see p113)
Music
Amir Khusrau, poet
and musician, is said to
have introduced the
multi-stringed sitar and
the raga style to North
Indian music.
The Qutb Minar

In 1193, Qutbuddin Aibak built the
Qutb Minar (see p116) and a mosque
to announce the advent of the Muslim
sultans. This 19th-century lithograph
shows a part of the Qutb complex that
was built over the remains of an earlier
Rajput citadel at Mehrauli (see pp114–15).
1288–93 Venetian traveller

Marco Polo visits South India 1414–51 Sayyids
of Delhi
1296–1316 Reign of
Alauddin Khilji, great general,
builder and administrator
1300 1350 1400 1450
1320–1414 Tughlaqs Tughlaq coin 1398 Timur the Lame’s

rule Delhi invasion of Delhi 1451–1526 Rule
1302 New capital built at Siri of Lodis, last of
Delhi’s Sultans
1290–1320 Khiljis rule Delhi Bara Gumbad, a 15th-century Lodi tomb
The Great Mughals

The Mughals, like the Ottomans of Turkey, the Safavids of Delhi
Iran and the Tudors of England, were one of the greatest Fatehpur
Sikri
Agra
medieval dynasties. For over 200 years they held firm

political control over the subcontinent, establishing a stable
administrative system and a rich pluralistic culture blending
the best of Hindu and Islamic traditions. Great patrons of art
and architecture, they also encouraged the translation of
Sanskrit texts into Persian. Markets and cities flourished Mughal Empire
under them, making India famous. Mughal Empire at the end of
the 17th century
Hierarchy of nobles
depended on the rank
given by the emperor.
Buland Darwaza at Fatehpur Sikri

Erected to celebrate Akbar’s victory over Gujarat
Rajput princes were
in 1572–3, Buland Darwaza (see p177) is part of often loyal Mughal
the great Mughal architectural legacy that still supporters. Shah
dominates the region. Jahan’s grandmother
was a Rajput princess.
Mughal Art
A ruby-studded ceremonial
gold spoon, Jahangir’s
jade wine cup, a gold
enamelled glass hookah
base and Mughal miniature
paintings (see pp36–7) offer
vivid glimpses of the Mughals’
extravagant patronage of art.
1526 Babur defeats 1540–55 Sur Sultans rule

Ibrahim Lodi at Panipat 1539 Sher Shah in Delhi
Sur defeats
Babur, the first Humayun 1556 Death of Humayun.
Mughal emperor at Chausa Accession of his son Akbar Jahangir
1525 1550 1575 1600
1530 Death of Babur.

1571–85 Fatehpur
His son Humayun 1572
Humayun’s Sikri built
succeeds him
1605 Death of Akbar.
Tomb built
Akbar the Great at Delhi His son Jahangir
succeeds him
Order and Symmetry

The “taming of the land” Where to See
that took place under the
Mughal India
Mughals, whether it was
their landscaped gardens Fatehpur Sikri
or their system of justice (see pp174–6)
and revenue settlement, and the Taj Mahal
was founded on this (see pp158–61)
dual principle. are among the
finest examples
of Mughal
architecture in this
region. The Mughal
area around Delhi’s necklace
Red Fort (see pp98–9)
also has several Mughal relics.
Important collections of Mughal
Shah Jahan art, manuscripts, coins, jewellery,
with his son in costumes and armoury are
the foreground
receiving a gift housed in both the National
from a noble. Museum, Delhi (see pp76–9)
and the City Palace Museum,
Jaipur (see pp192–3).
Diwan-i-Khas
was used for special
audience with
the emperor and
his advisors. Military Organization
All senior administrators
Court robes and (mansabdars) maintained an
turbans indicated armed retinue (sawars)
status and religion. and rank (zat)
determined salary.
A railing
separated the
imperial circle
from lower
state officials.
Shah Jahan’s Court

The splendour of the Mughal court is illustrated
in this 17th-century painting of Shah Jahan among
his nobles, grouped in strict hierarchical order round
the throne. Mughal emperors, seated in an elevated
alcove, used glittering court rituals to display their
supreme political position as they took stock of
the state affairs from their officials.
1638–48 Shah Jahan builds new

1628 Tomb of capital at Shahjahanabad, Delhi
Itimad-ud-Daulah
1707 Death of Aurangzeb,
built by Nur Jahan 1659 Aurangzeb
at Agra crowned emperor the last Great Mughal
1625 1650 1675 1700 1725
1652 Taj Mahal

completed Aurangzeb
1627 Accession of Shah Jahan

The Taj Mahal
European Traders, Colonizers

and Mercenaries Delhi
Meerut
Lucknow
Kanpur
Crippled by the sack of Delhi in 1739 by Nadir Shah of Amjhera
Barrackpore
Singhbhum
Persia, Mughal power declined rapidly. This was exploited
Shorapur
by petty rulers, European mercenaries, and the British East
Nargund
India Company, set up in the 1690s to trade in spices and
cotton. Its commercial success led to the rise of the Company
as a political power, which ushered in some social reforms and
The Indian Mutiny of 1857
new power equations. Yet, the social instability engendered by
Areas where British
the Company’s unpopular trade and political practices erupted administration was disputed
in the Indian Mutiny or Great Revolt of 1857. Site of major revolt in 1857
British officer
killing a rebel leader
at Fatehpur.
The Decline of the Mughals

Nadir Shah’s plunder of Delhi (see p96) was the signal
for the rise of the Jats and Marathas. Suraj Mal Jat
(see p170) filled Bharatpur Fort, seen above, with
looted Mughal treasures.
Sepoys mutinied against animal

grease on bullets as it violated
religious taboos.
Economic Exploitation
A 19th-century lithograph Indian rebels led by
shows the impoverishment disgruntled princes
ultimately lost the war.
of cotton ginners as cheap
English mill-made cloth
flooded the Indian market.
1757 Clive’s victory at

the Battle of Plassey
Nadir Shah’s establishes political 1761 Ahmad Shah Abdali
battle axe supremacy of the defeats Marathas in the
Company in Bengal Third Battle of Panipat
1750 1775
1739 A Maratha
Nadir Shah invades Delhi 1764 soldier
Battle of Buxar gives the 1771
Company the Diwani of Marathas occupy Delhi
Bengal and the right to 1770
collect revenue Great Bengal Famine
A Nabob and his Concubines

A corruption of nawab, this name
described officials who made huge
fortunes from the East India Company’s
cotton and spice trade in India. Many
adopted the feudal lifestyles of the
Indian princes as this 19th-century
painting shows.
Palanquins transported
rebel princes and gentlefolk Indian Sepoys
The plains of North to the scene of battle. The Company’s commercial interests
India were the main were protected by its military
battle areas. establishment, which employed
Indian foot soldiers called sepoys.
Where to See
European India
Sardhana (see p146) has a
cathedral built by Begum
Samroo, the Indian wife of
Walter Reinhardt, a European
mercenary. Meerut’s church,
where the first shots of the
sepoy mutiny were fired,
survives in mint condition
(see p146). The cantonments
in Meerut and Agra, the
Agra cemetery (see p156)
and St James’s Church in Delhi
(see p105) are other sites that
go back to the time of the
Indian Mutiny.
Sepoys Rebelling at Fatehpoor

This lithograph of a pitched battle during the Mutiny
show sepoys and Indian leaders being tackled by the
Company’s troops. The Indian Mutiny or Great Revolt
of 1857 was seen as India’s first war of independence
from colonial rule by some nationalists as it shook the
foundation of the East India Company’s rule in India. Sardhana Cathedral (see p146)
1784 William Jones elected first president

of the Asiatic Society of Bengal
1857–8 The Indian Mutiny
1803 Delhi captured by the British
1829 Sati abolished 1853 First railway from
Bombay to Thana
1800 1825 1850
1856 Annexation
1835 Company strikes its own coins of Oudh leads
omitting Mughal emperor’s name to wide public
Queen Victoria’s head on a outrage against
Company coin Oudh’s Nawab the Company
Wajid Ali Shah
Pax Britannica
The foundation of British rule, or the Raj, was laid only after Delhi
the Indian Mutiny, which truly revealed the unpopularity of RAJPUTANA
Jaipur
Gwalior
Calcutta
the East India Company. An Act of Parliament in 1858 brought
its rule to a close and its Indian territories became part of Bombay
Britain’s empire. India was now ruled directly by the Crown Madras
through a viceroy. Though the Raj was unabashedly Victorian

and conservative, and its raison d’être was economic profit
and political control, its abiding legacy was the political British India
unification of the subcontinent, and the introduction of British territory, 1858
modern Western education, a centralized civil administration
and judicial system, along with a wide network of railways
and postal services.
Northern Gate of
the Jami Masjid.
Indian attendants in
viceregal livery re-enact
a Mughal procession.
The Steel Frame

Some 2,000 British officers ruled over
a subcontinent of 300 million people.
The paternalistic civil service brought
order and justice even to remote outposts.
Memsahib with her Tailor

Despite the climate, the English
clung to their own dress styles.
Children were sent
“home” to study,
and a large Indian
staff enabled a
luxurious lifestyle.
1859 Withdrawal of Doctrine of Lapse, Lord Dalhousie, author of

Lord Canning, the a major cause of the 1857 revolt the notorious Doctrine
first Viceroy of Lapse (see p311)
1861 Indian
Council Act
1875
1876 Victoria proclaims herself

1865 Telegraphic
1858 Victoria Empress of India
proclaims Lord communication is
Canning first established with Europe 1877 Lytton’s Delhi
Viceroy of India Durbar
Raj Cuisine
While kebabs, curry
and rice became
a part of British
culinary preference,
Westernized Indians
took to drinking
tea and nibbling
biscuits. An early
20th-century biscuit
tin label reflects this
exchange of tastes.
A Sahib Travelling
A vast rail network was set up by the British to
facilitate commerce and travel. This lithograph
of first-class travel, a privilege of “whites only”,
is from the 19th century.
Caparisoned
Where to See British India
elephants carry Crowds line the streets to Raisina Hill and the surrounding
the new rulers. see the grand spectacle. area (see pp72–3), Agra’s St John’s
College (see p156), and Mayo College
(see p223) in Ajmer are examples
of colonial architecture. Delhi’s
Coronation Memorial (see p107)
and the University area (see p107)
are other sites with a Raj connection.
Detail of India Gate (see p75)
The Durbar, 1903

This painting of Curzon’s Delhi
Durbar (1903), held to celebrate
the coronation of Edward VII,
shows a procession winding
through the historic streets of
Delhi. Held periodically, such
assemblies announced both
the grandeur and the political
might of British rule in India.
1878 Vernacular 1899 Lord Curzon

Press Act becomes Viceroy
1905 Partition of Bengal
1885 Indian by Lord Curzon causes
National Congress national outrage
founded
1900
1883–4 Illbert Bill

controversy
1878–80 Second Lord Curzon, Viceroy 1904 Ancient Monuments
Anglo-Afghan War 1899–1905 Preservation Act
The Freedom Movement

The founding of the Indian National Congress in 1885 gave Amritsar
Delhi
Indians a platform from which to demand freedom from Chauri Chaura
Champaran
foreign rule. Their ideology was provided by Gandhi, whose Dandi Calcutta
message of non-violence and economic self-reliance gave Bombay
them moral confidence, and united castes and communities Madras
under a common cause. At first the movement for freedom

was ruthlessly suppressed, but by the 1930s it became too
large for the British to handle. Finally, weakened by World Freedom Movement
War II and under growing international pressure, England • Major towns associated with
the Freedom Movement
granted India formal independence in 1947.
Huge crowds turned

out to register their support.
Gandhi united castes
Khadi, homespun cloth,
and communities as
was worn as a statement
never before.
of patriotism.
Round Table Conference (1931) The police

The British tried to work out a settlement dogged public
with Gandhi, accompanied by formidable assemblies, often
brutally beating
campaigner and poet, Sarojini Naidu. the audience.
The Cellular Jail,

Andaman Islands
Hundreds of freedom
fighters were shipped
here by the British.
Many were hanged,
some died of diseases
such as malaria. Now
a national monument,
the jail’s is known as
Kala Pani (“black
waters”), a name
recalling its dark past.
Rabindranath Tagore
1913 Rabindranath 1914 Canada refuses Indians
Tagore wins the Nobel aboard the ship Kamagata Maru
1907 Congress splits Prize for Literature permission to land
at Surat between the
moderates and extremists 1915 Home Rule League
started by Annie Besant
1910 1920
1917 Gandhi takes up the cause of indigo

farmers at Champaran, Bihar
1906 Muslim League formed at Dacca
1919 Police fires at unarmed crowd at
1908 Tilak, a prominent nationalist, Jallianwala Bagh in Amritsar, Punjab
sentenced to six years transportation on
charges of sedition 1920 Non-cooperation Movement launched by Gandhi
New Delhi
New Delhi was Where to See the
declared the Raj’s
capital in 1911. This
Freedom Movement
early photo shows The National Archives (see
Parliament House, p75) and the Gandhi Smriti
then the Legislative (see p82) have a permanent
Assembly building. exhibition on the Freedom
Movement. Panels on this
theme are also displayed at
the Jawahar Pavilion in Pragati
Maidan (see p89). Teen Murti
House (see p82) offers a
view of Nehru’s life.
Nehru and Jinnah
Gandhi delivered Prominent lawyers who
his powerful mes-
joined Gandhi’s national
sage of freedom at
public meetings. movement, they enjoyed
an iconic status in India Gandhi Samadhi, Rajghat
and Pakistan after (see p101)
Independence.
The Partition (1947)

A huge displacement of people across
the borders took place at the division of the
subcontinent into India and Pakistan, leading
to an eruption of violent communal riots.
Mahatma Gandhi
Called Mahatma (“great spirit”), MK Gandhi
returned to India from South Africa in 1915
as a protest against apartheid. He travelled
across the subcontinent, launching a moral
crusade that encouraged non-violent Civil
Disobedience against colonial rule.
1930–32 Gandhi leads Subhash Chandra Bose and

the Dandi Salt members of the Indian 1948 Assassination of
March and Civil National Army Mahatma Gandhi
Disobedience
1940 Muslim League adopts the
Movement
Pakistan Resolution
1930 1940
1942 Quit India

Movement 1947 India attains
1939 Resignation of
the Congress Independence
Ministers Nehru is sworn in as the first Prime
Bungalow designed for a new capital at Delhi in the 1930s Minister by Lord Mountbatten
India Today 1,000 million

India celebrated 68 years of independence in 2015.
Nehru, the first prime minister, laid the foundations for 700 million
a modern nation state with a democratic, secular polity, a
strong industrial base and a planned economy, with non-
400 million
alignment as the keystone of its foreign policy. India’s
1.2 billion people speak 22 languages, and though many
of them are illiterate and unemployed, a vigorous and free
2001 2011
press and electoral system ensure that their interests and 1941 1961 1981
rights are safeguarded and well represented. The three Population Figures
major national political parties are the Congress, the Growth of population
Aam Aadmi Party (Common Man’s Party), and the more

right-wing Bharatiya Janata Party (Indian People’s Party). New Delhi was built
between 1911 and 1933
by Lutyens and Baker.
Rural India
More than half the
country’s population
lives in its villages.
An adult literacy
programme is
under way to
educate the
disadvantaged,
particularly women.
The Nehru Family

Jawaharlal Nehru is
seen here with his
daughter Indira Gandhi
(who was not related
to Mahatma Gandhi),
The Indian flag
and her son Rajiv is a tricolour of
Gandhi. All three were saffron, white and
prime ministers of India. green, with a chakra
Rajiv’s Italian-born widow, (wheel) in the centre.
Sonia, now heads the
Congress Party.
1971 War with Pakistan,

birth of Bangladesh 1984 Indira Gandhi
1952 First General Election assassinated. Her son
1964 Death of 1977 Janata Party, the Rajiv Gandhi succeeds
1953 Mount Everest scaled by Jawaharlal Nehru, first non-Congress her as prime minister
Hillary and Tenzing first prime minister coalition, takes power
1960 1965 1970 1975 1980 1985

1962 India- 1966 Indira Gandhi 1980 Indira Gandhi 1982 India sends
China War becomes prime returns as prime scientific team to
minister minister Antarctica
1955 Bandung Conference 1974 First
on Non-Alignment 1965 War with nuclear test, 1975 Indira Gandhi declares the
1950 India becomes a Republic Pakistan Pokhran unpopular Emergency
Cricket
Introduced by the
British, this game
is now a national
obsession. Recently
retired Sachin
Tendulkar, the “little
master”, is regarded by
many as the greatest
batsman since
Donald Bradman.
Industrial Development
Nehru, the architect of the country’s industrial base,
hailed factories as the new temples of modern India.
India is now a major industrial power with a huge
workforce of skilled workers.
The Indian Army is one of South Block and its

the largest in the world. twin, North Block,
were designed to
flank Raisina Hill.
Protest Rallies
India’s vibrant democracy expresses itself
through popular protest (dharna) in which
women figure prominently. The Narmada
Bachao activists, seen here, have mobilized
women and displaced tribal people against
the World Bank-funded Narmada Dam.
Contemporary Literature
India has a rich writing
tradition in all languages.
The White Tiger, written by
Aravind Adiga (right), won
the Man Booker Prize in
The Republic Day Parade 2008. The Lives of
Others, by Neel
A magnificent parade on 26 January celebrates Mukherjee, was
the day when India became a republic in 1950. shortlisted for the
A colourful flypast, folk dances and floats display Man Booker in
its pluralistic society, and the president, as head of 2014, as was The
the republic, takes the salute at Rajpath. Lowland, by
Jhumpa Lahiri,
the year before.
A woman casts her vote

1998 The right-wing Bharatiya Janta Party (BJP) comes to power for
1990 VP Singh becomes prime the first time; AB Vajpayee becomes prime minister
minister; announcement of
reservation for backward classes 2007 Prathiba Patil elected as first 2010 Delhi hosts the
female president of India Commonwealth Games
1990 1995 2000 2005 2010 2015 2020

1992 Destruction of Babri Masjid 2001 2004 Manmohan Singh 2014 BJP’s Narendra
in the state of Uttar Pradesh Earthquake elected prime minister; Modi sworn in
leads to communal riots in Gujarat UPA government in power as India’s 15th
1991 Rajiv Gandhi assassinated; Prime Minister
New Liberalization Policy under 1999 Conflict with Pakistan over Kashmir at Kargil; 13th
Prime Minister Narasimha Rao General Elections re-elect a BJP-led government
DELHI
AREA BY AREA
Delhi at a Glance 68–69

New Delhi 70–83
Nizamuddin to Purana Qila 84–91
Old Delhi 92–101
Further Afield 102–119
Day Trips from Delhi 120–121
Shopping in Delhi 122–123
Entertainment in Delhi 124–125
Delhi Street Finder 126–135
68 DELHI AREA BY AREA
Delhi at a Glance
Situated along the Yamuna river, Delhi was built
by the British in the 1930s and is the youngest of
several historic cities that have occupied this site.
Now a noisy and chaotic metropolis of 25 million
people and a mélange of shanty settlements and
smart colonies, it is still dotted with the remains
of its interesting past. There are museums and
art galleries with impressive collections, and
its shops offer a tempting array of handicrafts.
Delhi is a major cultural centre of the country CHAND NI CHOW K
with music, dance and art events held
throughout the year. The Jami
Masjid (see p96)
Q U TA
is the largest
Connaught Place congregational
B
(see p80), was built mosque in OLD DELHI
RO A D
in the 1930s as the Asia with lively (See pp92–101)
business centre bazaars in the AS
AF
of New Delhi, surrounding lanes. AL
CHE LMS F O R D R O A D
I
ROA
in concentric D
AD
circles round a
PA
NC
RO
HK
central park. Its UI
ND
AN
stately colonnaded
NA
RO
AD
KA
corridors contain
VE
shops and offices.
VI
MG
GH
SIN
K
RA
G
A
KA
AR
KH
BA
M
ST
BA
UR
AD
BA
NS
SA
MARG
GA
TA
AS
HO NEW DELHI
ND
L K (See pp70–83)
KA
HI
TO
RA RO
COPERNICUS
MG
N T AD
CE RO
ES AD
CR
A
DR RAJENDRA PRASAD RD
TERES
R AJPATH
Rashtrapati Bhavan (see p74)

AD
MO
ER
TIL
RO
TH
is the official residence of the AL

N
O
President of India. Called Viceroy’s

HA
M
NE
HR
JA
House in colonial times, it was U

AH
M
designed by Edwin Lutyens and
SH
G
JA N PAT H
TE
EN
occupies the crest of Raisina Hill. M A D
UR RO
Its forecourt is the venue for TI
M B AR
G AK
colourful state pageantry.
AD
AD
O
BR
RO
G ZE
R AN
AU
AJ
IR
HV
The National Museum

IT
(see pp76–9) houses the

PR
LO D I
most comprehensive RO AD
LO DI
collection of antiquities
in the country. This
2nd-century Sunga
panel of a grieving
woman is part of a
stunning section on sculpture
from various periods and places.
The beautiful 27-petalled Lotus Temple, better known as the Baha’i House of Worship
D E L H I AT A G L A N C E 69
RI
NG
RO
A
D
Red Fort (see pp98–9), an impressive fort-palace

MAHATM A
built by Shah Jahan, was the seat of Mughal

NETA
power. After the Indian Mutiny of 1857, the

JI
British converted it into a garrison and it

was stripped of many precious treasures.
SU
RIN
GA
BHA
ND
G
HI
RO
SH
AD
MA R G
MARG
JAW AHA RLA L NEH

RU MAR G
RING
The Crafts
Museum
ROAD
(see pp90–91)
complex offers an
insight into India’s
cultural, craft and
rural traditions. The
museum exhibits
textiles, folk art and
M AT H U R A
objects of everyday
RG
RIN
MA
use in terracotta,
G
metal and wood.

AK
TIL
ROAD
ROA
D
0 kilometres 1
0 miles 1
MA
H AT
MA
DR
ZA
GA
KI
NIZAMUDDIN TO
ND
RH
HI
U
PURANA QILA
SS
AI
(See pp84–91)
MA
N
M
RG
AR
G
M
AT
HU
RA
ROAD
RO
AD
Humayun’s Tomb (see p87) is where the second

Mughal emperor Humayun is buried. This garden
tomb with its imposing double dome is
considered by many to be the first great
Mughal mausoleum in this region.
DELHI AREA BY AREA 71
NEW DELHI
The British built New Delhi, between 1911 processional avenue leading to India
and 1931, to be the showcase of the Empire. Gate, is now Rajpath, where every
On Independence, this grand imperial capital 26 January the Republic Day Parade
became the official and bureaucratic centre is held (see p75). The National Museum
of the new Indian nation. Today, the former is on Janpath. To the north are Connaught
Viceroy’s House is the president’s residence, Place, the Birla Mandir and the cultural
and ministers and civil servants live nearby in complex at Mandi House. Despite strict
spacious bungalows along the tree-lined security restrictions, New Delhi is the
avenues. Kingsway, the east-west city’s most impressive area.
Sights at a Glance
Historic Buildings, Streets and Plazas Gardens Restaurants pp250–52
1 Rashtrapati Bhavan t Lodi Gardens 1 Big Chill
2 Vijay Chowk Shops and Markets 2 Daniell’s Tavern
4 Rajpath 3 Dhaba
0 Connaught Place
6 India Gate 4 Elan
y Khan Market
Churches and Temples 5 Khan Chacha
Theatres and Art Galleries 6 Kwality
3 Cathedral Church of Redemption
8 Mandi House Complex 7 Latitude 28
q Lakshmi Narayan Mandir
8 Lodi Garden Restaurant
Museums 9 Pind Balluchi
5 National Museum 10 Saravana Bhavan
7 National Gallery of Modern Art 11 Sevilla
e Nehru Memorial Museum and Library 12 Smokehouse Bar & Grill
r Gandhi Smriti 13 Spice Route
Monuments 14 The Shim Tur
15 Triveni Tea Terrace
9 Ugrasen’s Baoli
C HEL M SF O R D R D
New
Delhi 16 Varq
w Jantar Mantar PA R ROA
D
N BAZAA 17 Veda
CH MAIN
KU 18 Wasabi
IA
N
RG
MA
RK Ashram RO
Marg AD
CHO
IRA
IR
Shivaji D
BHAI VIR SINGH MG
ND
Bridge EEN
W
D
MA
(IN
K)
SHAH EED BHAG AT DA

MG
SI N GH M AR G Rajiv Chowk YA
CON
UP L
AM
AD
U B
S
KA AU
HR
Shivaji C HYA
CIR
N
LI G HTRA A
AK
AS
Stadium
BA AR RO KHA Barakhamba Rd YA M
A
RI
KA
KH MG AD M B G
HN
RO
BA H
MG
AD A
ST
BA SING
IS
Tilak
KR
Mandi
UR
Bridge
LSTOY MG
AD
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House S I KAN D R
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See also Street Finder LO D I
maps 1, 2, 5
The memorial at India Gate, bedecked with flowers on Navy Day For keys to symbols see back flap
Street-by-Street: Around Vijay Chowk

The barren, treeless grounds around Raisina Hill were selected
as the site of the new capital city. Now a well-guarded verdant
area, it houses India’s president, ministers and officials, as well
as its Parliament and ministries. Imperial hierarchical conventions,
both spatial and political, laid down by the British are still followed,
so that even today, Indian ministers and officials live in spacious
bungalows on broad tree-shaded avenues around Rashtrapati
Bhavan where no high-rise buildings are allowed. From Vijay 2 . Vijay Chowk
Chowk, Lutyens’s grand central vista lies ahead – large trees A pair of red sandstone
and fountains line the lawns of Rajpath up to India Gate, obelisk-shaped fountains
flank this forecourt that
the Canopy and the National Stadium at the far end. overlooks a grand vista.
Sansad Bhavan is
also known as
North Block has Parliament House.
an imposing
Central Hall
which is open
to the public.
D
A
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R
IE
S
U
O
The Iron Gates L
H
Copied from a pair A
D
Lutyens saw in
Chiswick, England,
these are held by
highly ornamental
sandstone gateposts.
TH
Rashtrapati Bhavan lies

YA
to the west of them.

G
A
RA
J
M
Edwin Landseer Lutyens

A
RG
Architect Edwin Landseer Lutyens

(1869–1944), President of the Royal
Academy from 1938 to 1944, was
commissioned to design India’s
new capital in 1911. With Herbert
Baker, his colleague, it took him
20 years to build the city in a
unique style that combined
Building the Secretariats on Western Classicism with Indian
rocky scrubland decorative motifs. The result is
classical in form and English in
manner with Neo-Mughal gardens and grand vistas meeting at
verdant roundabouts. Delayed by World War I and quarrels
between Baker and Lutyens, spiralling costs met by Indian . South Block
revenues led Mahatma Gandhi to term it a “white elephant”. The Prime Minister’s Office and the
Ironically, the British lived here for only 16 years. Defence Ministry are located within
this block, a high security zone.
NEW DELHI 73
OLD DELHI
NEW DELHI
NIZA
MUDDIN
TO
PURANA
QILA
Locator Map
See Street Finder map 4
Sunehri Bagh
This gently curving street leads to a picturesque
roundabout with a simple 18th-century mosque
built by a pir called Sayyid Sahib. Shady trees are Roundabout
a standard feature of all Lutyens’s avenues. Beautifully
landscaped road
intersections are a
Udyog haven for workers
Bhavan during lunch.
Vayu Bhavan
India Gate
MOTILAL NEHRU MARG

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A
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Statue of Kamaraj
Kumarasami Kamaraj
was Congress Party
President (1963–7).
0 metres 25
0 yards 25
. Bungalow-lined Avenues
Strict building bylaws preserve the original
Key
architecture of the colonial bungalows in
the tree-lined avenues of this area. Suggested route
2 Vijay Chowk
Map 4 F2. N Block: Open 9am–6pm
Mon–Fri. Sansad Bhavan: Open 11am–
5pm Tue–Sat. Visit is subject to
Parliament not being in session.
The area where Rajpath meets

Raisina Hill, known as Vijay
Chowk, was planned as a
commanding approach to
the Viceroy’s House. This is
where the unforgettable
“Beating Retreat” ceremony
takes place each year on 29
January (see p45).
Rising impressively from
Rashtrapati Bhavan seen through Lutyens’s ornate iron gates the levelled top of Raisina Hill
are the two virtually identical
1 Rashtrapati rises 55 m (180 ft). Within are Secretariat buildings, designed
Bhavan courtyards, banqueting halls, state by Herbert Baker and known
apartments and private living as the North and South Blocks.
Map 4 E2. Tel (011) 2301 5321. quarters. The pièce de résistance These long classical edifices
Open 9am–4pm Fri–Sun. is the Durbar Hall, where all house the Home and Finance
Closed Mon–Thu. & 8 phone
important Indian state and ministries and the Ministry of
or book online to visit. ∑ president
ceremonial occasions are held. Foreign Affairs. The stately
ofindia.nic.in. Change of Guard
Ceremony: Tel (011) 2301 3287.
Situated beneath the dome and Central Hall of the North Block
Apr–Oct: 8am; Nov–Mar: 10am forming the centre-piece of the (to the left, if facing Vijay
Sat only. Kitchen Museum: “H”-shaped building, this circular Chowk) is open to the public.
Tel (011) 2301 2960. Open As for hall was originally the Throne Sited to the north of Vijay
tour. Mughal Gardens: Open Feb– Room and contains the two gold Chowk, Baker’s circular Sansad
Mar. Closed Mon. and crimson thrones Lutyens Bhavan (Parliament House) was
designed for the vice-roy and a later addition following the
Designed by Edwin Lutyens vicereine. The Kitchen Museum Montagu-Chelmsford Reforms
(see p72) to be the focal point showcases items used to cook, of 1919, to house the Legislative
of New Delhi during British serve and dine at the Rashtrapati Assembly. The Constitution of
rule, the house built for the Bhavan, through the pre- and India was drafted here in the
viceroy, which is today the post-Independence periods. early days of Independence.
President of India’s official To the west of the grounds Today, both the Rajya Sabha
residence, stands at the are the formal Mughal (Upper House) and the Lok
crest of Raisina Hill. This Jaipur Column, Gardens with water- Sabha (House of the People)
20th-century architectural Rashtrapati Bhavan courses and fountains meet here when Parliament
masterpiece covers an built on three levels, is in session. The Lok Sabha’s
area of 4.5 acres (2 ha). The cupola ending with Lutyens’ often boisterous debates take
of its copper and sandstone dome “butterfly garden”. place in the Central Hall.
Sansad Bhavan (Parliament House), where the Constitution of India was drafted
NEW DELHI 75
3 Cathedral Church for the Arts (IGNCA), with an Hyderabad House where official
of the Redemption archive of rare manuscripts. state banquets are held, and
It holds many national and Jaipur, Bikaner, Patiala and
1 Church Rd, North Avenue. Map 4 E1.
international exhibitions Baroda Houses.
Tel (011) 2309 4229. Open 8am–noon;
4–6pm daily.
and symposia.
Henry Alexander Medd 7 National Gallery

(1892–1977), the architect of 5 National Museum of Modern Art
this magnificent church, was See pp76–9. Jaipur House, Dr Zakir Hussain
inspired by Palladio’s church of Marg, near India Gate. Map 5 C2.
II Redentore in Venice, from which Tel (011) 2338 4640/2835.
it also derives its name. Consecrated Open 10am–5pm Tue–Sun.
in 1931, the cathedral formed an 6 India Gate Closed Mon & public hols. & 8
integral element of the plan for = m ∑ ngmaindia.gov.in
Map 5 B2.
the imperial capital complex, and
was built as the main Anglican At the eastern end of Rajpath, Jaipur House, the former
church for senior British officials in the 9-m (30-ft) wide India Gate residence of the Jaipur maharajas,
New Delhi. Today, it is the diocese was built to commemorate is one of India’s largest
of the Bishop of the Church of the Indian and British museums of modern
Northern India. Among the many soldiers who died in art. Its vast collection
memorial tablets inside the World War I and includes graphics,
church, there is one in honour those who fell in paintings and
of its architect. battle in the North- sculptures dating
West Frontier from the mid-19th
Province and the century to the
Third Afghan War. present day. The
An eternal flame galleries display
burns in memory of works of British
unknown soldiers landscape painters
who died in the such as the Daniells,
1971 Indo-Pakistan India Gate and Indian artists
war. Facing India such as the Tagores,
Gate is the sandstone canopy Jamini Roy, Amrita Shergill and
where King George V’s statue Raja Ravi Varma. Works of
was installed after his death in contemporary artists such as
1936. The statue is now at MF Husain, Ram Kumar, KG
Coronation Park (see p107). Subramanyam and Anjolie Ela
Around India Gate are the Menon are also seen here.
stately homes of erstwhile Reproductions of paintings
Indian princes, including are sold at the gallery shop.
The Neo-Classical Cathedral Church of the
Redemption
Republic Day Parade
Indians love parades and ever since 1950, when India became
4 Rajpath a republic, the Republic Day parade on 26 January has always
Map 5 A2. National Archives: attracted large crowds despite the often chilly weather. The
Tel (011) 2338 4797. Open 9:30am– president, the prime
6:30pm Mon–Sat. Closed Sun & minister and other
public hols. Indira Gandhi National dignitaries watch
Centre for the Arts: Tel (011) 2338 as soldiers in dashing
8105. Open 9:30am–5:30pm Mon–Fri. uniforms from the many
regiments and
This 3-km- (2-mile-) long squadrons of the Army,
avenue, used for parades and Navy and Air Force
march smartly past.
lined with canals and fountains
Brightly dressed
along its lovely lawns, is very schoolchildren, civil
popular with Delhi residents defence services Republic Day Parade
on steamy summer evenings. personnel and others
The National Archives, quick-step down the grand vistas of Rajpath to the rousing
situated at the intersection percussion of military bands. Most popular are the Camel
with Janpath, houses a major Corps and the inventive floats representing each state of
collection of state records and the country. A ceremonial fly-past by the Indian Air Force
private papers. Opposite is the signals the end of the parade.
Indira Gandhi National Centre
5 National Museum
Five millennia of Indian history can be explored at
the National Museum, with a collection of more than
200,000 pieces of Indian art. The nucleus collection of
about 1,000 artifacts was sent to London in the winter
of 1948–9 for an exhibition at the Royal Academy. After
its return, it was housed in the Durbar Hall of Rashtrapati
Bhavan until the present building was complete in 1960.
The collection of Indus Valley relics and Central Asian treasures
from the Silk Route is considered among the finest in the . Dara Shikoh’s
world. Some sections of the museum are undergoing Marriage Procession
An 18th-century Mughal
renovation and exhibits may not be on display. miniature painting in gold
and natural pigments.
. Nataraja Maritime Heritage Gallery

This 12th-century
Chola statue
of the cosmic The Coins and Indian
dance of Lord Scripts Gallery has on
Shiva is the display an impressive
centrepiece of collection of coins and
the museum’s the evolution of the
South Indian Indian script.
bronzes.
Ground floor
. Kubera
A rare example of
a Hindu god shown
as a 2nd-century
Kushana (see pp50–51)
Library
grandee with marked
Central Asian features
is among a large
collection of
Mathura Art.
Harappan Civilization
Gallery
The Serindian Collection

Almost 700 years after the Silk
Route fell into disuse, Sir Aurel Entrance
Stein, a British archaeologist, led
a series of expeditions (1900–16) Audio-visual room
to uncover its treasures. On view
at the National Museum, Stein’s
Central Asian collection of Terracotta Mask
the artifacts he found in the This unusual human
Taklamakan Desert has silk mask made of terracotta
paintings, Buddhist manuscripts dates back to 2700 BC,
Silk painting, and valuable records of life and was unearthed
7th–8th century along this ancient trade route. in Mohenjodaro in
the early 20th century.
N AT I O N A L M U S E U M 77
Tribal Lifestyle Aurangzeb’s Sword VISITORS’ CHECKLIST

Gallery The personal sword
of the Mughal emperor Practical Information
Aurangzeb, crafted Janpath, Rajpath Rd Area, Central
in 1675 in the Indo- Secretariat. Map 5 A2. Tel (011) 2379
Persian style, 2775. Open 10am–5pm Tue–Sun.
has quotations Closed Mon & public hols. & extra
from the Koran charges. 9 811:30am, 2:30pm,
inscribed on it. 4pm. = - m e Film shows,
lectures, presentations and
special exhibitions. ∑ national
museumindia.gov.in
Transport
q Central Secretariat, Udyog
Bhawan. @ 501, 521, 522, 526,
531, 580, 615.
Ethnic Art Gallery

The Tribal Lifestyles of Northeast
India Gallery showcases tribal
costumes, personal adornments
and wood carvings.
Gold Brocade
This pretty 18th-
century purple silk
Baluchari sari is
Copper Plates embellished
Gallery with motifs in
gold thread.
Second floor
. Illuminated Koran
First floor A superb example of the elegant
Islamic art of calligraphy, this
gilded 18th-century Koran is
one of a collection that also has
a 8th-century Koran in the ancient
Kufic script. The latter is among
the oldest of its kind in the world.
Key to Floorplan
Ancient & Medieval Sculptures
Chola Bronzes, Jewellery,
Wood Carving
Gallery Guide
Buddhist Art, Decorative Art
The collection is displayed on three floors, grouped
Central Asian Antiquities, according to theme, epoch and style. The central
Indian Manuscripts and
Coins, Wall Paintings foyer itself has a display of sculptures from various
Early Man parts of the country. The museum also has a library
and auditorium where film shows and lectures are
Pre-Columbian and Western Art
regularly held. Information on these is published in the
Ajanta Paintings, newspapers, and material regarding catalogues and
Thanjavur Paintings, Indian
Miniature Paintings souvenirs can be found at the ticket office in the foyer.
Textiles, Arms and Armour, The display is changed from time to time for variety,
Musical Instruments and special exhibitions are also held.
Exploring the National Bronzes

Museum Collection Indian bronzes, executed
through the cire perdue or
Spread over three floors radiating from an octagonal “lost wax” process as an
courtyard, the museum has 30 galleries (some closed alternative to stone temple
for renovation or devoted to temporary exhibitions). sculptures, developed
The impressive collection includes sculpture, in South India under
the Chola and Pallava
paintings, jewellery, decorative arts and textiles.
dynasties. Idols made of
These represent the finest examples of each bronze, an alloy of eight
style and period from all over the country. metals with copper as the
base, were less weighty
than stone and could
Indus Valley Culture Ancient and either be worshipped
Excavations in the 1920s at Medieval Sculpture at home or taken out
Harappa and Mohenjodaro Six galleries on the for festive processions.
(now in Pakistan) revealed ground floor trace the The gallery’s collection
the remains of a sophisticated growth of Indian sculpture covers 600 years (5th–11th
urban culture that existed over 1,500 years. Among centuries). The pride
between 2500–1500 BC along the earliest pieces is a of place belongs to
the Indus Valley (see pp48–9). rare terracotta fertility a 10th-century Chola
The museum’s collection goddess from Mathura Nataraja, the name
of relics from these sites is dating to the 3rd century Devi, 15th-century given to the Lord
among the finest in the world. BC. From Amaravati in bronze of Dance, Shiva. This
Although the Indus copper Andhra Pradesh (1st shows him dancing
and bronze instruments are century AD), is a superb the Chaturatandava, a classic
less opulent than the later sculpted panel depicting representation of his cosmic
Mesopotamian and Egyptian its now vanished reliquary dance of life and death. The
ones, other items, such as mound (stupa). The circle of flames that surrounds
the figure of a dancing girl 2nd-century AD Kushana the dancer represents the
and a headless female torso, frieze of Vasantasena, an entire cosmos.
show enormous artistic skill. inebriated courtesan Another 11th-century Chola
Also on display are soap- (see pp50–51), is an amusing bronze, Kaliyamardan Krishna,
stone seals, used perhaps by comment on court life, while is a superb study of the balance
merchants and officials, whose the splendid collection of and poise of the young Lord
pictographic script remains Gandhara art, with its marked Krishna as he dances on the
undeciphered. Particularly Hellenistic style, shows the hood of the five-headed
notable is the display of Harappan evolution of the human form serpent, Kaliya, holding
pottery which ranges from in North Indian sculpture after his tail in triumph.
functional items such as pots the 1st century. Its delicately
to charming toys, beads, draped statues are the first
necklaces and weights. representations of the Buddha Manuscripts and
in human Wall Paintings
form. After the Among the wealth of rare
great stone- manuscripts in the museum
carved Hindu are the Bustan-e-sadi (1502),
temples and one of the few dated and
images of the illustrated manuscripts of pre-
Gupta period Mughal India. Leaves from the
(3rd–5th 16th-century Babur Nama, a
centuries), biography of the first Mughal
regional styles emperor, illustrate the style of
emerged in early Mughal painting. A Rig
the south Veda Samita (1514) and a
and the east. beautiful 18th-century cloth
Successive scroll of the Bhagvat Purana
galleries trace are also part of this collection.
sculptural Also on display is an
developments unparalleled Hunting Scene
of the Pallava, (c.1810) from the Kota School
Chalukya and of Painting, salvaged from the
the Hoysala Jhala Jhalim Singh Haveli in
2nd-century Jain votive plaque from Mathura dynasties. Kota, Rajasthan.
N AT I O N A L M U S E U M 79
Decorative Arts
The immense variety of
India’s decorative arts fills
two adjoining galleries. Even
everyday objects, such as a
19th-century silver rosewater
sprinkler from Delhi, or a
hookah base enamelled
in blue and green from
18th-century Rajasthan
have individual flourishes.
Court patronage ensured that
artists fashioned innumerable Durga Killing Demon Raktabija, Malwa, c.1640
objets d’art to delight royal
whims. Thus, floral arabesques timeless relationship. There are
adorn a 17th-century Mughal also hunting scenes from Kota Textiles, Arms and
degcha (cooking pot). Daintily where the depiction of nature Armour, Musical
carved ivory statues and artifacts is real and vibrant. Court Instruments
and elegant Hyderabad bidri painters at Mewar produced The textile collection displays
ware, delicately inlaid with silver, detailed depictions of a a selection of Indian weaving
are also on display. variety of royal pursuits techniques, including the world
ranging from court activities famous gold and silk brocades
to recreation and leisure. of Varanasi from the Mughal
Basholi paintings period; ikat and tie-and-dye from
with their bold and Andhra Pradesh and Gujarat; and
intense colours, and 19th-century kantha embroidery
delicate portraits from from Bengal in intricate hemstitch.
Guler are part of the Also worth noting is a hand-
large collection of embroidered rumal from
Pahari paintings from Golconda dating to 1640.
the northern hill states. The Arms and Armour
An 18th-century bidri Deccani art from Hyderabad, Gallery has the 18th-century
ware jewel box a fusion of the Islamic idiom painted rhinohide shield of
with indigenous styles, the Rajput king, Maharana
produced masterpieces Sangram Singh.
Indian Miniatures such as A Picnic Party (early The Musical Instruments
Over 350 paintings from a 18th century). Also on display Gallery has some artifacts
large collection of 18,000 are are later provincial schools that that are over 200 years old,
on display in the new miniature developed after the Mughals, including an ivory inlaid
gallery. There are some Mughal as well as Company art, tanpura (a stringed instrument)
masterpieces from the Jahangir produced for the British from the 18th century. The
and Shah Jahan period, from the mid-18th century. core collection was donated
including the famous Jahangir by Sharan Rani, a famous
Holding the Picture of Madonna sarod player.
(c.1620) and Camel Fight Central Asian Antiquities
(c.1615–20). Insightful portraits Sir Aurel Stein’s collection of
of the Mughal rulers Babur, treasures (see p76) discovered
Jahangir, Shah Jahan, and from the legendary Silk Route
other court personalities such in Chinese Turkestan comprises
as Tansen, the legendary court this invaluable section.
musician of Akbar’s time, bring Included are paintings on
Mughal history to life. silk (3rd century) and a
Also on view are a selection 10th-century caravan scene
of Ragamala series depicting on paper from Dun-huang
the mood of each raga. The in China that re-create the
Rajasthani miniatures illustrate romance of those times.
Hindu mythological themes, Fragments of another fabu-
particularly the devotional love lous silk painting, Ladies in a
between Krishna and Radha. Garden, from Astana, show
The Kishangarh paintings, Boat lovely-looking women in
of Love and Radha and Krishna, elaborate coiffures with
both mid-18th century, bring impressive gold filigree pins, An intricately-woven, 17th-century
lyricism and beauty to this lounging among blossoms. jamawar shawl
8 Mandi House 0 Connaught Place

Complex Map 1 C4. Shops: Open 10:30am–9pm
Mon–Sat (timings for individual shops
Map 2 D5. Triveni Kala Sangam:
may vary). Closed Sun & public hols.
205 Tansen Marg. Tel (011) 2371
8833. Open 9:30am–5pm Mon–Sat. Robert Tor Russell, one of New
Closed public hols. = - Rabindra
Delhi’s architects, designed this
Bhavan: 35 Ferozeshah Rd. Tel (011)
imperial plaza named after the
2338 6626. Kamani Auditorium:
Copernicus Marg. Tel (011) 4350 3351.
Duke of Connaught, an uncle
Sri Ram Centre: Safdar Hashmi Marg. of King George V. Noble
Tel (011) 2371 4307. = - National Palladian archways and stuccoed
School of Drama: 1 Bhagwan Das Rd. colonnades deliberately recalled
Tel (011) 2338 9402. For Tickets: the very English terraces of
see Entertainment: pp124–5. The historic stepwell, Ugrasen ki Baoli, Cheltenham and Bath; and
located in the heart of New Delhi when the first shops raised
Mandi House, once the their shutters in 1931, they had
palace of the ruler of a small 9 Ugrasen ki Baoli names such as “Empire Stores”
principality in Himachal Off Hailey Rd, Vakil Lane, Connaught
to distinguish them from the
Pradesh and today the offices Place. Map 2 D5. local shops selling Indian goods
of the state-owned television in shopping areas like Gole
centre, lends its name to this This stepwell (see p33) is reached Market and Chandni Chowk.
cultural complex encircling by turning left on Hailey Road Today there are as many offices
a roundabout. into a narrow lane without a sign- as shops in the central circle,
Triveni Kala Sangam’s post just before the Consulate officially renamed Rajiv Chowk.
various art galleries hold General of Malta. (The outer circle is
regular contemporary art A little way along now Indira Chowk.)
exhibitions. A pleasant on the right are the The shops are
open-air auditorium here remains of an old an eclectic mix
stages dance and theatre stone wall; the baoli of travel agencies,
performances. Well-known is behind it and can banks, outlets for
artistes and writers can often be entered through several leading
be glimpsed in the popular a narrow buttressed international
café, and there is also a gateway, usually Mirror-work skirts on sale at brands and the
bookshop specializing in locked, but the Janpath, Connaught Place ubiquitous gift
Indian arts publications. chowkidar will open kiosks. Though
The state-sponsored arts the gate. With 103 red-stone Connaught Place has, in recent
complex, Rabindra Bhavan, steps and a series of arches years, lost out to other local
houses the three national supported by columns, this is markets, its shaded arcades
academies of literature one of Delhi’s finest stepwells. Its offer a pleasant atmosphere to
(Sahitya Akademi), fine architectural features suggest a stroll in and to browse through
arts and sculpture (Lalit Kala 15th-century date, though pop- the pavement book stalls.
Akademi), and the performing ular myth holds that it was built in There are many restaurants
arts (Sangeet Natak Akademi) the 14th century by Raja Ugrasen, also located here, as well as
in separate wings. All have an ancestor of the mercantile a number of cinema halls.
libraries and display galleries Aggarwal community, to provide The central lawns, earlier
which also sell reproductions water and shelter for travellers. a venue for street theatre,
and postcards. The Lalit Kala
is the site of the international
Triennale exhibition in which
painters and sculptors from
more than 30 countries
participate. Exhibitions of
photography, graphics and
ceramics are also held here.
Kamani Auditorium,
the Sri Ram Centre and
the National School of
Drama host theatrical,
classical music and dance
events in their auditorium.
The latter two have their
own repertory companies
which stage plays in many
regional languages. Connaught Place, the British-built shopping complex in New Delhi
NEW DELHI 81
The brick and plaster astronomical instruments in Jantar Mantar
shoe-shine boys and self-styled contemporary Indian w Jantar Mantar

“ear cleaners”, have made way temple architecture. Parliament Street, Connaught Place.
for the Delhi Metro. The popular Approached by a flight of Map 1 C5. Open 6am–5pm daily.
Central Park features an marble stairs, the main shrine Tel (011) 2336 5358.
amphitheatre, 21 fountains has images of Vishnu and
and flowered lawns. Nearby his consort, Lakshmi. It is Sawai Jai Singh II of Jaipur built
popular shopping centres surmounted by ochre and this observatory in 1724 when
include the state emporia maroon shikharas (temple commissioned by the then
at Baba Kharak Singh Marg towers). Subsidiary shrines Mughal emperor Muhammad
and the stalls along Janpath. dedicated to Radha-Krishna, Shah. A keen astronomer, the
Hanuman, Shiva and Durga maharaja felt that the existing
(see pp28–9) are set around instruments were not accurate
q Lakshmi the courtyard. On the walls enough to calculate the eclipses
Narayan Mandir are quotations from Hindu and planetary positions required
Near Gole Market, Mandir Marg,
scriptures, often with English to set the timings of his pujas
Connaught Place. Map 1 A4. ^ translations. They are also and other sacred rituals. He
decorated with paintings from erected new observatories
The prominent industrialist the Mahabharata (see p145) here, and in four other towns,
GD Birla built this temple and Ramayana (see p41). including Jaipur (see pp196–7)
dedicated to Lakshmi Narayan Surrounded by a peaceful with instruments that were
in 1938. Mahatma Gandhi park with a pleasant marble sufficiently large and fixed to the
attended its first puja as this pavilion on one side and a site to be both exact and not
was among the country’s large dharamshala (resthouse) prone to vibration. The instruments
first temples that had on the other, this popular are the Samrat Yantra, a right-
no caste restrictions. temple is a good angled triangle whose hypotenuse
Popularly known place to visit as it is parallel to the earth’s axis. This
as Birla Mandir, it is spotlessly clean is, in fact, a gigantic sundial, and
is a fairly typical and very well- there are two brick quadrants
example of maintained. on either side which measure
its shadow. The others are the
Jai Prakash Yantra, Jai Singh’s
invention, which, among other
functions, verifies the time of
the spring equinox; the Ram
Yantra which reads the altitude
of the sun; and the Misra Yantra,
a group of instruments for a
variety of purposes. Today, the
observatory lies obsolete, in
the centre of a pleasant park,
The popular Lakshmi Narayan Mandir surrounded by high-rises.
The Nehru Memorial Museum and Library at Teen Murti Bhavan
e Nehru Memorial but two future ones as well: r Gandhi Smriti

Museum and his daughter, Indira Gandhi, 5, Tees January Marg. Map 4 F3.
and grandson, Rajiv. Both
Library mother and son were
Tel (011) 2301 2843/1480.
Open 10am–5pm Tue–Sun.
Teen Murti Marg. Map 4 E3. Tel (011) assassinated (see pp64–5). ^ = Closed Mon & public hols.
2301 7587. Museum: Open 9am– The extensive grounds
6:30pm Tue–Sun. Closed public hols. are home to the Nehru On 30 January 1948, at 11am,
Nehru Planetarium: Tel (011) 2301 Planetarium and the square, Nathuram Godse assassinated
4504/2994. & Shows: 11:30am, three-arched Kushak Mahal, Mahatma Gandhi as he was
1:30pm, 3pm, 4pm. Closed Mon a 14th-century hunting lodge going to his daily prayer
& public hols. built by the Tughlaq sultan, meeting in the gardens of
Jawaharlal Nehru lived in this Feroze Shah (see p101). this house, once the residence
house, then called Teen Murti On the roundabout, in front of the Birla family (see p81).
Bhavan, while he was India’s of the house, is the memorial A simple sandstone pillar
first prime minister (1947–64). known as Teen Murti (“three marks the spot.
On his death, the house was statues”), dedicated to the men Now a museum commem-
converted into a national of the Indian regiments who orating Gandhi’s life and final
memorial comprising a died in World War I. It was from hours, Gandhi Smriti offers
Museum and a library for this landmark that the house an ambience reflecting
research scholars. derived its name. Gandhi’s philosophy of
Originally the residence of lofty political principles
the Commander-in-Chief wand down to earth common
of British Forces in India and sense. A series of appealing
located directly south of dioramas, made up of dolls in
Rashtrapati Bhavan, the glass cabinets, tell the story of
house was designed by Robert his eventful life through such
Tor Russell, the architect of defining moments as bidding
Connaught Place and the farewell to his parents while
Eastern and Western Courts going to England and the
on Janpath. Its design follows death of Kasturba, his
the established Lutyens-style beloved wife. The rooms
classicism with a teak-panelled where he used to stay when
interior and vaulted reception in Delhi are memorably
rooms. Nehru’s bedroom and austere and convey a sense
study, still exactly as he left of his history. In the garden,
them, are an austere centre footsteps cast in red sand-
in a grand house. Especially stone lead to the site of his
interesting are the bookshelves final martyrdom.
containing Nehru’s large private The museum complex
collection, an eclectic mix of has shops selling inexpensive
English classics, Left Book editions of Gandhi’s writings as
Club editions and treatises well as items made from khadi,
on the Cold War. the simple homespun cloth
This home has a special he always wore, and which
place in modern Indian history became one of the important
as it once housed not just the Teen Murti memorial, built in memory of symbols of the Freedom
incumbent prime minister, the lives lost during World War I Movement (see pp62–3).
NEW DELHI 83
t Lodi Gardens is Bahlol Lodi’s tomb. The Market, is in honour of the

Map 5 A4. Open sunrise–sunset daily.
tomb of Muhammad Shah prominent Pathan nationalist
(r.1434–44), the third ruler of the and social reformer, Dr Khan
Lodi Gardens, located in the Sayyid dynasty, is said to Sahib, the brother of Khan
heart of residential New Delhi, be the oldest in the garden. Abdul Gaffar Khan, the “Frontier
was built at the behest of Lady The dome of this octagonal Gandhi”. Both men were revered
Willingdon, the Vicereine, in structure is surrounded by for their role in the struggle for
1936. Although it was originally chhatris, and jaalis once filled independence among the warlike
the site of two villages, the the spaces between the pillars. tribes of the North-West Frontier
inhabitants shifted elsewhere, The graves inside are said to Province (now in Pakistan).
and lawns and pathways were be those of the sultan himself This popular market is much
laid out around the tombs and some of the most favoured frequented by Indians and
belonging to the 15th-century nobles of his court. foreigners alike. There is a wide
Sayyid and Lodi dynasties. Inside, Today, with its tree-lined range of Indian and Western
the bridge called Athpula, pathways and well-kept lawns merchandise on offer here, from
literally “eight piers”, near the and flower beds, the park acts crockery, cakes and dog leashes
entrance on South End Road, is as a “green lung” for the people to boutiques selling exquisite
said to date from the 17th century. of Delhi. It is one of the city’s jewellery and designer clothes.
To the west of it are the ramparts most picturesque parks and There are also traditional
of the tomb of Sikandar Lodi a favourite haunt of joggers, sari shops, as well as Anokhi
(r.1489–1517) which enclose an yoga-enthusiasts and families (see p122), selling blockprinted
octagonal tomb at the centre of who come linen and garments in both
some rather overgrown gardens. here to picnic on Western and Indian styles.
Inside it, traces of turquoise weekends. Vendors There are a number
tilework and calligraphy are selling balloons, of excellent places
just about visible. ice-creams and to buy shoes, as
To the south of Sikandar Lodi’s snacks from well as good
Tomb are the Bara Gumbad handcarts are bookshops –
(“big dome”) and Sheesh popular with Bahri & Sons,
Gumbad (“glazed dome”). children. Full Circle and
The names of the nobles Muhammad Shah’s Tomb Faqir Chand’s,
buried within have long been one of the
forgotten, but the Bara Gumbad y Khan Market oldest shops in the market. Its
is an imposing structure with Subramaniam Bharti Marg. Map 5 B3.
other charming features are the
an attached mosque built in Shops: Open 10:30am–8pm Mon–Sat. groceries and the colourful
1494, and a mehmankhana Closed Sun. flower shops. A number of cafés
(guesthouse). The Sheesh such as Coffee Bean & Tea Leaf,
Gumbad derives its name from This market was built in the Café Turtle and Market Café are
the glazed turquoise tiles that early 1940s to serve the needs located here for shoppers in
still cling to its outer walls along of the British forces living in the search of a quick snack, as well
with blue calligraphic panels. hurriedly constructed barracks as Delhi’s popular delicatessen,
Recent research claims that this at Lodi Estate. Its name, Khan Sugar & Spice.
Athpula, the 17th-century bridge near the entrance to Lodi Gardens on South End Road
NIZAMUDDIN
TO PURANA QILA
The Nizamuddin area, named after the Mughal emperor. In this neighbourhood, the
famous 14th-century Sufi saint, Nizamuddin medieval and modern co-exist harmoniously.
Auliya, is bisected by Mathura Road and Busy Mathura Road swirls past the Subz Burj
has a clearly visible split personality. East tomb with its blue-tiled dome, today a traffic
Nizamuddin is the quieter half, with island. Humayun’s Tomb and the Sundar
Humayun’s Tomb (see p87) resting peacefully Horticulture Nursery are to the west. Further
at the centre of a Persian garden. West north is the up-market residential colony of
Nizamuddin, the old Muslim quarter around Sundar Nagar with antique shops, Delhi Zoo
the saint’s dargah, is a lively basti which still and Purana Qila, the “old fort”(see p88). The
retains its medieval character. This important crumbling battlements of the fort overlook
pilgrim centre also has the graves of famous the Crafts Museum, the small shrine of Matka
poets such as Amir Khusrau and Mirza Ghalib, Pir, a Sufi saint, and the exhibition grounds of
as well as the tombs of Jahanara, the Pragati Maidan. To the east stands the Khair-
daughter of Emperor Shah Jahan, and the ul-Manazil Mosque, built by Maham Anga
dilettante Muhammad Shah Rangila, a later in the mid-16th century.
Sights at a Glance Restaurants p251

Historic Site 1 Three Sixty Degree
1 Nizamuddin Complex
Tomb
RIN
2 Humayun’s Tomb p87 Pragati

Maidan
M AT H U R A
Monuments
3 Purana Qila Indraprastha
4 Khair-ul-Manazil Mosque
ROA
Museums Pragati
Maidan
ROAD
5 Crafts Museum pp90–91

Exhibition Grounds
6 Pragati Maidan B HAIRON M A R G
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See also Street Finder map 6 Y OVER
A group of women praying at the Nizamuddin Dargah, Delhi For keys to symbols see back flap
1 Nizamuddin Across the western side of

Complex the open courtyard is the red
sandstone Jama’t Khana Mosque,
Old Nizamuddin Bazaar, Nizamuddin
built in 1325. To its north is
East. Map 6 D5. Dargah: Open daily.
Qawwali: 6:30pm Thu. _ Urs (Apr).
a baoli (stepwell), secretly
excavated while Tughlaqabad
This medieval settlement, (see p118) was being built
or basti, is named after Sheikh because Ghiyasuddin Tughlaq
Hazrat Nizamuddin Auliya, had banned all building
whose grave and hospice activities elsewhere. Legend
are located here. Nizamuddin has it that labourers worked
belonged to a fraternity of here at night with the help of
Sufi mystics, the Chishtiyas Congregational area at the dargah of lamps lit, not by oil, but water
(see p311), respected for their Hazrat Nizamuddin Auliya blessed by Nasiruddin,
austerity, piety and disdain for Nizamuddin’s successor (see
politics and material desires. His his disciples with qawwalis and p112). The mid-16th-century
daily assemblies drew both the offerings of chadors. tomb of Atgah Khan, Akbar’s
rich and the poor, who believed A winding alley leads to minister and the husband of
that he was a “friend of God” the saint’s grave. It is crowded one of his wet nurses, who was
and so a master who would with mendicants and lined with murdered by Adham Khan (see
intercede on their behalf on stalls selling flowers and p117), is to the north. An open
Judgement Day. Nizamuddin chadors, polychrome marble pavilion, the
died in 1325 but his disciples clocks and prints of Chaunsath Khamba
call him a zinda pir, a living Mecca. The main (“64 pillars”), is close
spirit, who heeds their pleas congregational area is by. Just outside is an
and alleviates their misery. a marble pavilion enclosure containing
The Urs (see p42) is held (rebuilt in 1562) the simple grave
on the anniversary of his birth where, every of Mirza Ghalib
and death, and celebrated by Thursday evening, Tomb of the famous poet (1797–1869). One
devotees sing songs Mirza Ghalib of the greatest poets
of worship composed of his time, Ghalib
by the celebrated Persian poet, wrote in both Urdu and
Amir Khusrau (1253–1325). Persian, and his verses are
Women are denied entry still recited today. Nearby
beyond the outer verandah but is the Ghalib Academy,
may peer through jaalis into the a repository of paintings
small, dark chamber where the and manuscripts.
saint’s grave lies draped with a Always crowded,
rose petal-strewn cloth and the basti preserves with
where imams continuously miraculous serenity, the
recite verses from the Koran. legend of this pir, who was
The complex also contains the called “a king without throne
graves of several eminent or crown, with kings in need
Colourful stalls lining the alley leading to disciples, such as Jahanara of the dust of his feet” by
Nizamuddin’s dargah Begum and Amir Khusrau. his disciple, Amir Khusrau.
Nizamuddin Complex India

Gate
In this historic necropolis,

many of the pir’s disciples,
such as Amir Khusrau and
•
Jahanara Begum, Shah LO DI Sabz Burj
ROAD •
Jahan’s favourite daughter, • Isa Khan’s Fort Humayun’s

Lodi Mirza Ghalib’s Tomb Ghalib •
Gardens Arab ki Tomb
are buried close to their Academy
•
•
Sarai •
•
Chausanth Khamba Barber’s Tomb
master. Jahanara’s epitaph
Hazrat Nizamuddin
echoes her master’s •
Aulia Dargah
teachings: “Let naught
MA
cover my grave save the •

TH
Atgah Khan’s
LA
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green grass, for grass well Tomb

LA
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LA
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the grave of the lowly”. 0 metres 300
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0 yards 300 PU
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Temple
NIZAMUDDIN TO PURANA QILA 87
2 Humayun’s Tomb VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
Humayun, the second Mughal emperor (see p88), is Practical Information

buried in this tomb, the first great example of a Mughal Off Mathura Rd. Map 6 D4. Tel (011)
2435 5275. Open sunrise–sunset
garden tomb and inspiration for several later monuments, daily. & extra charges.
such as the incomparable Taj Mahal. Built in 1565 by the
Transport
Persian architect Mirak Mirza Ghiyas, it was commissioned q JLN Stadium.
by Humayun’s senior widow, Haji Begum. Often called
“a dormitory of the House of Timur”, the graves of its
chambers include Humayun’s wives and Dara Shikoh, Shah
Jahan’s scholarly son. Also in the complex are the
Afsarwala Tomb, the octagonal tomb and mosque of
Isa Khan, a noble at Sher Shah’s court, and the tomb
of Humayun’s favourite barber. The Arab ki Sarai
housed the Persian masons who built the tomb.
The tomb as seen from the entrance

The Dome
This imposing white marble double dome
is a complete half-sphere, and is surmounted
by a finial with a crescent in the Persian style.
Later Mughal finials, such as the one at
the Taj Mahal, used a lotus.
Geometric designs
inlaid on panels
Jaalis
Such fine trellis
work in stone later
became a signature
Mughal feature.
The Tomb Chamber

The imposing plinth is decorated The plain white marble sarcophagus stands on
with red sandstone arches and consists a simple black and white marble platform.
of multiple chambers, a departure from The grave itself lies in the rather dark,
the single chamber of previous tombs. bat-filled basement below.
3 Purana Qila The single-domed Qila-i-Kuhna

Mosque, built by Sher Shah in
Mathura Rd, near Delhi Zoo. Map 6 1541, is an excellent example of
D2. Tel (011) 2435 4260. q Pragati
a pre-Mughal design. Its prayer
Maidan. Open sunrise–sunset daily.
hall inside has five elegant arched
Museum: Tel (011) 2435 5387.
Open 10am–5pm Sat–Thu. Closed Fri.
niches or mihrabs set in its
& 8 Organized by Delhi Heritage western wall. Marble in shades
Walks, call 92125 34868 for of red, white and slate is used
more information. for the calligraphic inscriptions
and marks a transition from Lodi
Purana Qila, literally “old fort”, to Mughal architecture. A second
stands on an ancient mound. storey provided space for female
Excavations near its eastern courtiers to pray, while the arched
wall reveal that the site has The fort of Purana Qila and its lake, where doorway on the left wall, framed
been continuously occupied visitors paddle boat by ornate jharokhas, was reserved
since 1000 BC. It is also believed for members of the royal family.
to be the place where lake to the west facing busy The Sher Mandal stands to
Indraprastha, the Pandava Mathura Road is all that remains the south of the mosque. This
capital mentioned in the epic, today. The present fort entrance, double-storeyed octagonal tower
the Mahabharata (see p145), an imposing red sandstone of red sandstone was built by
once stood. It was here that gate on the western wall Sher Shah and was used as a
Humayun, the second Mughal called the Bara Darwaza, library by Humayun after he
emperor, began to construct is one of the three recaptured the fort. The
his city, Dinpanah (“Asylum principal gates of tower is topped by an
of Faith”), just four years after Shergarh. Its double- octagonal chhatri,
his father Babur established storeyed façade, supported by eight
the Mughal dynasty in 1526 surmounted by pillars and decorated
(see pp56–7). However, his reign chhatris and with white marble.
was short-lived and, in 1540, approached by Inside, there are rem-
he was dispossessed of his a steep ramp, still nants of the decorative
kingdom by the ambitious displays traces of plasterwork and traces
Afghan chieftain, Sher Shah Suri tiles and carved foliage. of the stone shelving
(r.1540–45). When Sher Shah took Humayun’s Gate, on where, presumably,
possession of the citadel, he the southern wall, has Chhatri with decorative the emperor’s books
strengthened its fortifications, an inscription bearing tilework were placed. This was
added several new structures Sher Shah’s name and also the tragic spot
and renamed it Shergarh. After the date 950 AH (1543–4). To where, on 24 January 1556, on
his death, his successors were the north, the Taliqi Darwaza hearing the muezzin’s call, the
defeated by Humayun who (the so-called “forbidden gate”) devout Humayun hurried to kneel
recaptured his domains in 1555. has carved reliefs, and across on the stairs, missed his footing
Today, of the many palaces, the road is the red sandstone and tumbled to his death. His
barracks and houses that Lal Darwaza, or Sher Shah Gate, tomb can be seen from the south-
once existed, only Sher Shah’s one of the entrances to the town- ern gate. Purana Qila flourished
mosque and the building said ship that grew around the fort. as the sixth city of Delhi (see p111)
to be Humayun’s library remain. and traces of walls still stand in
The Yamuna once flowed the area. There is a small Museum
on the fort’s eastern side and at the entrance displaying items
formed a natural moat: a small excavated from the site.
Sher Shah’s mosque at Purana Qila

those by Charles Correa,

Achyut Kanvinde and Satish
Grover. All the Indian states
have pavilions spread across the
fair’s extensive grounds, linked
by 16 km (10 miles) of roads.
A large number of exhibitions
are held here throughout the
year and cover products
ranging from arts and crafts,
textiles, electronics, jewellery
and automobiles to photo-
graphy, mining equipment
and food products. Every year
the World Book Fair and the
The single dome surmounting the prayer hall at Khair-ul-Manazil India International Trade Fair
(see p44) are held, drawing
4 Khair-ul-Manazil India Trade Promotion a great deal of international
Mathura Rd, near Purana Qila.
Organization. The work of interest. Both fairs are extremely
Map 5 C2. Open sunrise–sunset. some of India’s most eminent popular with local people
architects can be seen here. as well as overseas visitors.
This mosque, “the most Raj Rewal has designed the The National Science Centre
auspicious of houses”, was Hall of Nations and Industries (see p267) is located within
constructed in 1561 by Akbar’s while the World Trade Centre is the grounds of Pragati Maidan.
influential wet nurse, Maham by Joseph Allen Stein. Among It puts on shows for children as
Anga, and a courtier, Shiha- other notable buildings are well as adults.
bu’d-Din Ahmed Khan. An
imposing, double-storeyed
red sandstone gateway leads
into a large courtyard ringed
by cloisters, two storeys high,
one of which was used as a
madrasa. The prayer hall with
its five-arched openings is
topped by a single dome.
Above the central archway,
a marble inscription mentions
Maham Anga’s and Shiha-bu’d-
Din’s names. Inside, the central
mihrab is decorated with bands
of blue and green calligraphy.
Maham Anga is buried in
Mehrauli with her son, Adham
Khan (see p117), who was
executed by Akbar. A view of the Pragati Maidan complex, designed by Raj Rewal
5 Crafts Museum Matka Pir

See pp90–91. Rows of matkas (earthenware pots) line the entrance to the shrine of
Matka Pir, a Sufi saint. According to legend, a man and his wife came
to the saint to seek his help for the birth of a son. Being poor, they
could only offer a humble pot of dal and jaggery. The saint asked
6 Pragati Maidan them to place the pot in the courtyard and leave the rest to God. A
year later, their wish fulfilled, they
Mathura Rd. Map 6 D1. Tel (011) returned with another pot, a
2337 1540. Fax (011) 2337 1492/3. tradition that has continued since
Open 10am–5:30pm daily. & - 0 then. The dargah stands on a
National Science Centre: Tel (011) 2337 ridge overlooking Mathura Road,
1893. Open 10am–5pm daily. & with nearby shops selling matkas,
roasted grams, jaggery and dal.
India’s largest exhibition centre, The biryani served here is famous
covering nearly 150 acres (61 – the chefs trace their origins to
ha), Pragati Maidan is the venue the Delhi Sultanate era. The saint’s
for numerous exhibitions and powers still attract many pilgrims. The shrine of the Sufi saint, Matka Pir
trade fairs organized by the
5 Crafts Museum
For centuries, Indian craftsmen, such as potters and
weavers, masons and carvers, have created a range
of objects for everyday use that are both beautiful
and practical. A unique project was started in 1956 to
promote indigenous artisans by displaying their work
in one place, and by the early 1980s, over 20,000 Wooden ritual mask
objects had been collected. This was the core around of Bhima
which grew India’s first Crafts Museum.
. Bandhini Odhni
This exquisite veil is the work of the
Khatri community in Bhuj, Gujarat.
In tie-and-dye (bandhini), grains are
used to set the pattern. Threads
are tied around them and the
cloth dyed in different colours.
Key
Gallery of Aristocratic Arts
Gallery of Ritual Arts
Gallery of Folk and Tribal Cultures
Collection of Handicrafts
Gallery of Textiles
Administration Block Saranga
Temporary Exhibition Gallery Amphitheatre
Visual Store
Gallery Guide
The museum’s display is spread over two floors
Crafts Demonstration Area of the complex, divided into separate areas by
Artisans from all over India set courtyards that also double up as exhibition
up workshops each month spaces. A large open area is designated for live
(barring the monsoon) to art displays by visiting artisans each month,
display their skill to visitors. except during the rainy season.
Mukhalinga
A rare, late 19th-
century brass
Practical Information
and silver phallic
Bhairon Marg, Pragati Maidan.
image (linga)
Map 6 D2. Tel (011) 2337 1887.
with a human
face (mukha).
Closed Mon, public hols. & = -
Crafts demonstration: Open 10am–
6pm daily. Closed Jul–Sep.
∑ nationalcraftsmuseum.nic.in
. Charakku
These enormous, circular vessels
are cast of an alloy known as bell
metal. They are still used in Kerala
for wedding feasts or at temples
for making payasam (a type of rice
pudding) for devotees during festivals.
Kalamkari panel
This traditional hand-painted textile
from Andhra Pradesh depicts
a female deity with 12 arms.
. Bhuta Figure
These life-sized wooden
figures were made
200 years ago as part
of the Bhuta cult of
spirit worship in
the southern state
of Karnataka.
Library
Entrance
Jain shrine
This 18th-century wooden
shrine from Gujarat once
belonged to a wealthy
Shvetambara Jain family. Lota, Crafts Museum Shop
It features elaborate wood Located on the premises of the
carvings of elephants, Crafts Museum, the shop sells a
celestial musicians and wide selection of fine Indian folk
the Goddess Laxmi. crafts and textiles.
OLD DELHI
What is known as Old Delhi today was orig- called galis and katras, of the walled city.
inally the Mughal capital of Shahjahanabad, In 1739, the Persian freebooter Nadir Shah
built by Shah Jahan when he moved the came to plunder the city of Shahjahanabad
imperial court from Agra to Delhi. Construc- and left a bleeding ruin behind him. The final
tion began in 1638, and ten years later the deathblow was, however, dealt when the
Red Fort, Jami Masjid, Chandni Chowk and British troops moved into the Red Fort after
the surrounding residential and mercantile the Mutiny of 1857, turning it into a military
quarters were ready for occupation. garrison, while a railway line cut the walled
The city was surrounded by a rubble wall city in half. Yet, the spirit of the place has
pierced by 14 gates of which three – Delhi, survived all these vicissitudes and its busy
Turkman and Ajmeri – survive. An elegant, galis continue to support a vibrant life.
mannered lifestyle flourished, enriched Modernity has brought a new urgency
by the courtiers and merchants, artists and to the pace of the traditional traders
poets who lived in the lanes and quarters, who still live and operate from here.
Sights at a Glance Restaurants p251

Mosques Monuments 1 Chor Bizarre
2 Karim’s
1 Jami Masjid 3 Red Fort pp98–9
6 Zinat-ul Masjid 8 Feroze Shah Kotla
Historic Streets and Sites Memorial
2 Chandni Chowk 7 Rajghat
4 Ajmeri Gate
5 Turkman Gate
SH
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NAYA BAZAAR
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Sadar D MUKHERJI M RO
Bazaar ARG AD
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Chandni
Chowk
KHARI BAOLI
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M A H AT M A
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EHRU MARG
AHARAJA RANJEET
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0 metres 750
0 yards 750
See also Street Finder
maps 1, 2
A view of Old Delhi from the Masjid-i Jahān-Numā, or the Jami Masjid For keys to symbols see back flap
Street-by-Street: Chandni Chowk

Now a busy commercial centre, Chandni Chowk was once
a grand processional thoroughfare that led from the Red Fort to
Jami Masjid. When it was laid out in 1648 by Jahanara Begum,
Shah Jahan’s favourite daughter, a canal ran down the centre
of the tree-lined stately avenue. Chandni Chowk, or the “silvery,
moonlit square”, was then lined with merchants’ shops and the
Sisganj Gurudwara
grand residences or havelis of noblemen and merchants. Guru Tegh Bahadur,
the ninth Sikh guru,
Sunehri Masjid was beheaded at this
The “Golden Mosque”, with site. The gurudwara
three gilt domes, was built marks the site of
in 1722. On 22 March 1739, his martyrdom.
Nadir Shah stood on its roof
to watch the massacre of
Delhi’s citizens.
WK
HO
I C
N DN
A
CH
Fatehpuri Masjid
(built in 1650)
R
BAZAA
KINARI
DA
Nai Sarak RI
BA
KA
LA
N
N
IYA
UL
. Kinari Bazaar A R G
C ZA
Tightly packed stalls sell all H BA
manner of glittering gold E
L
and silver trimmings such P
U
as braids, tinsel garlands R
I
and turbans for weddings
and festivals.
Shiv Temple
Karim’s
Tucked away in a lane to the
south of Jami Masjid is Delhi’s
most authentic Mughlai
eatery (see p251). Named after
a legendary 19th-century
Key
chef, the restaurant is now
run by his descendants. Suggested route
OLD DELHI 95
OLD
DELHI
NEW
DELHI NIZAMUDDIN
TO
PURANA
QILA
Locator Map
. Lahore Gate See Street Finder map 2
This imposing red sandstone
gateway is the main entrance to
the Red Fort. The Prime Minister
addresses the Independence
Day rally here.
N
ET
A
JI
SU
BH
A
SH
M
A
RG
ES
P
LA Dariba Kalan
N
A Gold and silver ornaments
D
E are sold in this lane. Gulab
R
O Singh’s famous attar shop
A
D (see p123) is located here.
Charity box at the Bird

Hospital on Netaji
Subhash Marg
Govt Girls Senior

Secondary School
Karim’s
0 metres
1 . Jami Masjid
25
India’s largest mosque stands on a mound. Its two
0 yards 25 slender minarets flank three marble domes.
commerce mix happily

together. All along its length
are shrines sacred to various
communities. The first is the
Digamber Jain Mandir. Next
to it is the Bird Hospital for sick
and wounded birds. Loud
chants, clanging bells and calls
of vendors selling flowers and
vermilion powder surround the
Gauri Shankar Mandir, dedicated
to Shiva and Parvati, which has
a linga said to be 800 years old.
Jami Masjid, built by Shah Jahan, the largest mosque in India Still further, close to the Sisganj
Gurudwara, is the Kotwali
1 Jami Masjid prayer leader echoed the imam’s (police station), the scene of
Off Netaji Subhash Marg. Map 2 E2.
words and actions for worshippers British reprisal after 1857 (see
q Chawri Bazaar. Open 7am–12pm too far from the pulpit. p59). Nearly a century before,
& 1:30–6:30pm daily. Closed for non- Three imposing black another gruesome spectacle
Muslims during prayer time & after and white marble domes took place nearby when
5pm. Extra charges for photography. surmount the enormous one afternoon in 1739,
prayer hall, and two the Persian chieftain
This grand mosque, built in minarets frame the great Nadir Shah stood on
1656 by the Emperor Shah central arch. From the the roof of the Sunehri
Jahan on a natural rocky top of the southern Masjid and watched his
outcrop, took six years and minaret, a steep climb of men kill nearly 30,000
5,000 workmen to construct at 20 minutes, there are remark- of Delhi’s citizens.
the cost of nearly a million able views of the roof-line The actual Moonlit Square
rupees. A magnificent flight of of Old Delhi giving way (Chandni Chowk) is the
red sandstone steps leads to the to the high-rises of open space in front
great arched entrances where, New Delhi. Women Swami Shraddhanand’s statue, of the very British
in Aurangzeb’s time, horses were require a male escort Chandni Chowk Town Hall, now the
sold and jugglers performed. Today, to enter the minaret. Hardayal Library.
sweet-sellers, shoe-minders and Just behind it is the Mahatma
beggars mill around here. The Gandhi Park, which was called
huge 28 m (300 ft) square 2 Chandni Chowk Begum Bagh in Mughal times.
courtyard accommodates up to Map 2 D2. q Chandni Chowk. Further down, and commanding
20,000 people at prayer times, the end of this charming
especially during Friday prayers Once Shahjahanabad’s most quarter, stands the Fatehpuri
and on Id, when it looks like a elegant boulevard, this wide Masjid, constructed in 1650
sea of worshippers. Next to the avenue extending from the Red by Fatehpuri Begum, one of
ablution tank in the centre is the Fort to Fatehpuri Masjid, is still Emperor Shah Jahan’s wives.
dikka platform where, before the heart of Old Delhi, where Nearby are the spice markets
loudspeakers took over, a second both religious activity and of Khari Baoli.
Chandni Chowk, a vibrant centre of commerce and religious activity

OLD DELHI 97
Bazaars of Old Delhi

Old Delhi’s bazaars are legendary. An English visitor to these bazaars, over a hundred
years ago, wrote in praise of the “Cashmere shawls, gold and silver embroidery, jewellery,
enamels and carpets” to be found here. Today, the great wholesale katras of Chandni
Chowk and Jami Masjid still retain that souk-like quality. Their narrow streets are lined
with shops whose goods spill out onto the pavement; and shopping still means vigorous
bargaining for a bewildering array of goods.
Khari Baoli is Asia’s biggest Katra Neel is reminiscent of

spice market. It spills across Middle Eastern souks. The tiny
this street which derives its shops sell a wide variety of
name from a stepwell that textiles, such as brocades from
no longer exists. Varanasi, silk, cotton and voile.
RG
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MU
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OAD
AD
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Lajpat Rai Kinari Bazaar
SE
JI
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Market
specializes in tinsel
N
SH Y Chowk
RO
MAHATMA
accessories, and
SU
AD
CHU
GANDHI PARK attracts trousseau

BH
RCH
shoppers.
DA
Katra Town
AS
K
RIB
Neel Hall
M IS
OW
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Sisganj
H
C H Kinari
SI O N
Gurudwara
ES
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Bazaar AR
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Chunnamal
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Haveli Meena
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AD
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A T N
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RA H E A
K A S AN
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PU
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SA Jami
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A Masjid
LI
AR K
GA
KH
IW R
LA AL A
L A G A
KU N A Z
AN LI A
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BA
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0 metres 500
A JM
Dariba Kalan is
0 yards 500 the jewellers’ lane
where artisans have
worked for over
two centuries.
Churiwali Gali
has garlands of
Nai Sarak is very glass bangles
popular among strung along rods
students as school to match every
and college Chawri Bazaar has sari or lehenga.
textbooks and every conceivable It is popularly
stationery are variety of paper, called the “lane of
sold on this street. sold here by weight. bangle-sellers”.
3 Red Fort
Red sandstone battlements give this imperial citadel its
name, Red Fort (Lal Qila). Commissioned by Shah Jahan
in 1639, it took nine years to build and was the seat
of Mughal power until 1857, when the last emperor,
Bahadur Shah Zafar, was dethroned and exiled. Lahore
Gate, one of the fort’s six gateways, leads on to the
covered bazaar of Chatta Chowk, where brocades and Detail of a Gilded Pillar
jewels were once sold. Beyond this lies the Naqqar The Mughal love of opulence is
Khana, from where musicians played three times a day. visible in the lavish use of marble
and gold in the fort.
Moti Masjid
Named after the pearly
sheen of its marble,
the tiny “pearl mosque”
was added by Emperor
Aurangzeb in 1659.
. Hamams
The royal bath has three
enclosures. The first provided
hot vapour baths, the second
sprayed rose-scented water
through sculpted fountains, and
the third contained cold water.
. Diwan-i-Aam
The emperor gave daily audiences
to all his subjects in this 60-pillared
hall. The intricately carved throne
canopy stands on a platform,
while the low marble bench
was for the chief minister (wazir).
OLD DELHI 99
. Diwan-i-Khas VISITORS’ CHECKLIST

The legendary Peacock
Throne, one of Shah Jahan’s
seven jewelled thrones,
Netaji Subhash Marg, Chandni
was housed in this exclusive
Chowk. Map 2 D2. Tel (011) 2327
pavilion where the emperor
7705. Open 6am–7pm daily. &
met his most trusted nobles. - = Son et Lumière: Feb–Apr
The walls and pillars were
& Sep–Oct: 8:30pm; May–Aug:
once inlaid with gems and
9pm; Nov–Jan: 7:30pm. &
the ceiling was of silver
Closed Mon. Museum:
inlaid with precious stones.
Khas Mahal
The royal apartments were
divided by the “Stream of
Paradise”. The emperor’s
prayer room (Tasbih Khana)
was flanked by his sleeping
chamber (Khwabgah) and
sitting room (Baithak). This
overlooked the Yamuna river
and led to a balcony where
he appeared before his
subjects at sunrise.
Rang Mahal
Inside these gilded chambers,
once exclusively for women, is an inlaid
marble fountain shaped like an open lotus.
10 9 87 5 6
The Red Fort
1 Delhi Gate
14 2 Lahore Gate
3 Naqqar Khana
11 4 Diwan-i-Aam
13 12 4
5 Rang Mahal
3 6 Moti Mahal
1 7 Khas Mahal
8 Diwan-i-Khas
9 Hamams
10 Shah Burj (Tower)
11 Sawan (Pavilion)
12 Bhadon (Pavilion)
13 Zafar Mahal
2 14 Moti Masjid
Key 0 metres 200
Area illustrated above 0 yards 200

4 Ajmeri Gate 5 Turkman Gate

Ajmeri Gate Rd. q New Delhi. Asaf Ali Rd. Map 2 D3. q New Delhi.
Map 1 C3.
The solid, square-shaped, red
This is one of the 14 gates that sandstone Turkman Gate stands
once encircled Shahjahanabad. in splendid isolation among the
Having survived more than 300 modern high-rise buildings of
years, it stands in the midst of busy Asaf Ali Road. It marked
the city’s congested commercial the southern boundary of
centre. Diagonally opposite Shahjahanabad and was
Ajmeri Gate is Ghazi-ud-Din’s named after a Muslim pir,
Tomb and Madrasa. Ghazi-ud- Hazrat Shah Turkman Bayabani,
Din Khan was an eminent whose 13th-century tomb and
courtier during the reign of dargah stand to the east. The
the sixth Mughal emperor serpentine lanes behind the
Aurangzeb, and his son, Mir Ghazi-ud-Din’s madrasa, built in the gateway are home to two
Qamar-ud-Din, established late 17th century medieval monuments. Kalan
the dynasty that were to rule Masjid (“black mosque”), in the
the southern state of Hyderabad while striped towels hang from Bulbulekhan area, was built in
until Independence in 1947. the hostel balconies where 1387 by Khan-i-Jahan Junan
The imposing, red sandstone glorious silks may once have Shah, Feroze Shah Tughlaq’s
madrasa has several arcades billowed. Until recently, the prime minister. This is one of
and a mosque on its western esteemed Delhi College, now the seven mosques he built in
side. Founded in the late 17th the Zakir Husain College, was Delhi; the others are at Khirkee
century, this was at one time also located on the premises. and Begumpuri (see p113). A
Delhi’s foremost madrasa and A cycle-rickshaw from short walk away lies what is
after 1824 came to be known Ajmeri Gate will take you past believed to be the grave of
as the Anglo-Arabic School. tiny shops to the teeming lanes Sultana Razia Delhi’s only
English classes were held of Lal Kuan Bazaar where the medieval woman ruler (see
here, and British teachers also Zinat Mahal is situated. Built in pp54–5). Her brief reign was
introduced mathematics and 1846, this was the eponymous bedevilled by revolts and she
science texts to students, which home of the favourite wife was killed at Karnal in 1240
were then translated into Urdu. of the last Mughal emperor while fleeing from Delhi. Her
Ghazi-ud-Din’s grave is in a Bahadur Shah Zafar. Today, it plain rubble-stone grave lies
marble enclosure at the mosque’s houses a school, lawyers’ offices open to the sky in a cramped
southern end. Athough this and shops. The original façade enclosure amidst houses and
complex is surrounded by was wonderfully carved and shops. The atelier of the last
today’s urban congestion, it still arcaded with an oriel window. practising craftsman of Delhi’s
performs the noble function it The beautiful verse by Bahadur blue pottery, Hazarilal, is
was meant to. The three-domed Shah Zafar that was inscribed situated in the congested alleys
mosque is in regular use and over the arched gateway can of Hauz Suiwalan, located
students crisscross the courtyard, still be seen. behind Turkman Gate.
Auto-rickshaws parked outside the Mughal Turkman Gate

OLD DELHI 101
6 Zinat-ul Masjid
Ansari Rd, Daryaganj. Map 2 F3.
q Kashmiri Gate. Open 10am–
5pm daily.
This mosque was built in 1707

by Princess Zinat-un-Nissa Begum,
one of Emperor Aurangzeb’s
daughters. The gracefully
proportioned red sandstone
mosque has a spacious courtyard
built over a series of basement
rooms. Its seven-arched prayer
hall is surmounted by three
domes, with alternating stripes Zinat-ul Masjid, also known as the Ghata or “Cloud” Mosque
of black and white marble. The
locals who worship here have across the road is the Gandhi one time Delhi’s largest mosque
a more lyrical name for it, the National Museum, crammed where as legend says, Timur the
Ghata (“Cloud”) Mosque, with memorabilia connected Lame, the Mongol conqueror
because its striped domes with Gandhi’s life, including who sacked Delhi in 1398,
simulate the monsoon sky. his letters and diaries. A framed came to say his Friday prayers.
plaque on the stairs explains Next to the Jami Masjid is a
his simple philosophy: “Non- rubble pyramidal structure
violence is the pitting of one’s topped by one of the Mauryan
whole soul against the will of emperor Ashoka’s polished
the tyrant… it is then possible stone pillars (see pp50–51),
for a single individual to defy brought from the Punjab
the might of an unjust empire.” and installed here in 1356 by
Feroze Shah. It was from the
inscriptions on this pillar that
8 Feroze James Prinsep, the Oriental
Shah Kotla linguist, deciphered the Brahmi
Rajghat, cremation ground of Bahadur Shah Zafar Marg. Map 2 F4. script, a forerunner of the
Mahatma Gandhi modern Devanagari, in 1837.
Only some ramparts and ruined Khuni Darwaza (the
7 Rajghat structures remain of Feroze “bloodstained gate”), opposite
Mahatma Gandhi Rd. Map 2 F3.
Shah Kotla, the palace complex the Indian Express Building, was
Open 6am–7pm daily. Prayer of Ferozabad, Delhi’s fifth city built by Sher Shah Sur as one
meetings: 5pm Fri. National Gandhi erected by that indefatigable of the gates to his city (see p88).
Museum: Tel (011) 2331 0168. builder, Feroze Shah Tughlaq This was where Lieutenant
Open 9:30am–5:30pm Tue–Sun. (see p111). Entry is from the Hodson shot Bahadur Shah
Closed Mon & public hols. Film gate next to the Indian Express Zafar’s sons after the Mutiny
shows: 4–5pm Sat & Sun. Building. Towards the very end of 1857 was quashed. Across
of the walled enclosure stand the road is Delhi’s main cricket
Rajghat, India’s most revered the partial ruins of the Jami stadium, named after the palace
symbol of nationalism, is the site Masjid. Roofless, with only the complex, where world-class test
of Mahatma Gandhi’s cremation. rear wall still extant, this was at matches are held.
A sombre black granite platform
inscribed with his last words Hey
Ram (“Oh God”) now stands
here. The only splash of colour
comes from the garlands of
orange marigolds draped over
it. Devotees sing bhajans and
the steady beat of the dholak
lends the scene a dolorous
melancholy. All visiting heads of
state are taken to this samadhi
(“memorial”) to lay wreaths in
memory of the “Father of the
Nation”. On Gandhi’s birthday (2
Oct) and death anniversary (30
Jan), the nation’s leaders gather
here for prayer meetings. Just The Ashokan Pillar at Feroze Shah Kotla
FURTHER AFIELD
There is much to see and explore beyond is a more recent addition, with many affluent
the city centre. An undulating wooded area, suburbs, smart residential colonies, shops,
the Ridge, sweeps across Delhi from the cinemas and restaurants. Further south,
southwest to the north. The north contains the historic Mehrauli Archaeological Park
the university campus and Civil Lines, an encompasses 19th-century hunting lodges,
orderly civilian enclave created by the British, tombs, pavilions and the towering Qutb
and the west houses the army Cantonment. Minar. This picturesque area was the site
South Delhi, juxtaposed between the old of Delhi’s first city, Qila Rai Pithora, built
cities of Siri, Jahanpanah and Tughlaqabad, around Lal Kot, a Tomar Rajput fortress.
Sights at a Glance
Historic Buildings and Sites Tombs
2 Old Delhi GPO w Safdarjung’s Tomb
5 Civil Lines s Sultan Ghari
8 Delhi University
0 Delhi Cantonment Markets
t Hauz Khas e Dilli Haat 0 kilometres 3
y Siri Fort
0 miles 3
u Chiragh Delhi
i Khirkee
o Jahanpanah
p Mehrauli Archaeological Park pp114–17
d Tughlaqabad
Temples, Churches and Mosques

1 St James’s Church
r Moth ki Masjid Sights Outside Panipat
f Kalkaji Temple
the Centre
NH
g Baha’i House of Worship

1
Cemeteries
3 Nicholson Cemetery RO
H TA
KR
OA
PA D
Parks and Gardens TE Red
L
RO Fort
4 Qudsia Gardens A D
7 Northern Ridge
una
TO
9 The Ridge DA
AD
Ya m
PU O
Connaught
R
G
R
AR
Monuments Place
MAHA
M
M
6 Coronation Memorial
RA
TM A
TA
MA
A
India
G
Museums ND Gate 24
DE
HI M
G NH
VAN
q National Rail Museum

a Sanskriti
G
TI M
AN
AY
AJ
ARN
SW
RING ROAD
ARG
Delhi
Airport
NH
BINDO M
Key
RD
ELA
Delhi city centre

D
AUR
Agra
AN
Highway OUTER R ING RO A D

M
ON
Major road
LS
NE
Minor road
MEH
RAU
LI B
AD ARP
UR
R O AD
5 km Jaipur Surajkund
The 4th-century iron pillar at the Qutub Complex, Mehrauli For keys to symbols see back flap
Street-by-Street: Around Kashmiri Gate

Delhi’s Kashmiri Gate area resonates with memories of the
mutiny of 1857. Many of the dramatic events between the months
of May and September took place on the short stretch between
Kashmiri Gate and the Old Delhi General Post Office (GPO). In
the 1920s, this was also a favourite watering hole of the British
residents living in nearby Civil Lines. Then the street was lined
with smart shops and restaurants, few of which survive now.
Shop Façades
The grand old shops are
now shabby and derelict.
3 Nicholson
. Kashmiri Gate Cemetery
The Mughals used to
set off from this gate
to spend the summer
in Kashmir. In 1857, it
was the scene of a bitter
battle and a plaque on the
western side honours “the
engineers and miners who died NICHOLSON RD
while clearing the gate for British
forces on September 14, 1857”. AD
RO
R CH
C HU
K MARG
LO
T
H
IA
N
R AMLAL CHANHO
R
O
A
D
Fakr-ul-Masjid
The domes and minarets of this small
mosque rise above the rows of shops AR
ZA
and offices along this busy street. Local BA
residents come here to worship every Friday. RA
BA
Key
Suggested route
Old Hindu
College
0 metres
Old St Stephen’s
50
College
0 yards 50
FURTHER AFIELD 105
1 St James’s Church
Lothian Rd, Mori Gate. q Kashmiri
1. St James’s Church Gate. Open 8am–noon; 2–5pm daily.
Delhi’s oldest and most Services: 9am Sun.
historic church, consecrated
in 1836, is an impressive A tablet in the church founded
edifice, painted yellow by Colonel James Skinner
and white. explains: “This church is
erected at the sole expense of
Colonel James Skinner” in fulfil-
ment of a vow made on the
Northern
battlefield. Built at the cost of
Railways Office Rs 80,000, the church (now the
This Indo-Saracenic oldest in Delhi) is in the shape
fantasy was once the of a Greek cross, surmounted
residence of the British by an imposing eight-leafed
Commissioner, William dome. The two stained-glass
Fraser, one of Skinner’s windows were installed in the
closest friends. 1860s. Skinner died at Hansi
(see p144). A marble tablet, in
front of the altar, marks his
simple grave.
CH
UR
CH
RO
AD
The imposing Old Delhi

General Post Office
2 Old Delhi GPO

Netaji Subhash Marg, Priyadarshini
Colony, Lothian Rd. q Kashmiri Gate.
Open 10am–6pm Mon–Fri (until
5pm Sat). Closed Sun.
To the south of Kashmiri Gate

is the Old Delhi General Post
Dara Shikoh’s Office, an old fashioned establish-
library ment caught in a time warp. This
stucco-fronted colonial edifice
2 Old Delhi GPO
is significant because it faces a
traffic island on which stand two
structures dating to the Indian
James Skinner Mutiny of 1857. The Telegraph
One of the Empire’s most swashbuckling Memorial is a memorial obelisk
adventurers, Skinner was the son of a Scotsman dedicated to the officers of
and a Rajput. Rejected by the British Army the Telegraph Department.
because of his mixed parentage, he raised his The inscription on it honours the
own cavalry regiment, Skinner’s Horse, whose telegraph operators, Brendish and
flamboyant yellow uniforms gave rise to the Pilkington, who flashed news of
name Yellow Boys. His troops fought with the Indian Mutiny to the British
distinction and are still part of the Indian Army. garrison at Ambala. Nearby lies
On his death he was honoured the ruined British Magazine.
as a Commander of the Order of the Bath. It was blown up by a Captain
James Skinner His descendants still live on an estate Willoughby on 11 May 1857 to
(1778–1841) in Mussoorie, Uttar Pradesh. prevent it from falling into the
hands of the rebelling sepoys.
5 Civil Lines
Bounded by Shamnath Marg and
Mahatma Gandhi Marg. q Civil Lines.
Old Delhi’s Civil Lines

were inhabited by the British
civilian population while the
Cantonment (see p108) was
the military enclave. They lived
in spacious bungalows, shopped
at the Exchange Stores, dined at
Maidens Hotel and worshipped
at St James’s Church. The old
“temporary” Secretariat (built
in 1912) is also located here
Graves at Nicholson Cemetery on Mahatma Gandhi Marg.
This long white building with
3 Nicholson chowkidar and a donation to its two towers, where the
Cemetery the Church of North India will former Legislative Assembly
be welcome. Monkeys are once sat, also housed the offices
Club Rd, Lala Hardev Sahai rampant in the cemetery of the Delhi Administration
Marg, Civil Lines. q Kashmiri Gate. and are dangerous if teased. at one time. When the British
Open 6am–6pm daily.
moved into New Delhi,
In the renovated walled established Indian professional
cemetery named after him, 4 Qudsia Gardens and merchant families settled
surrounded by traffic and Railway Colony, Shamnath Marg,
here. Several old bungalows
overlooked by the Inter State Civil Lines. q Kashmiri Gate. have been redeveloped as
Bus Terminus (ISBT), lies the Open sunrise–sunset daily. modern blocks of flats, yet
flamboyant Brigadier General some areas, such as Rajpur
John Nicholson, the British Qudsia Begum, the dancing Road, still retain their
commander. The head-stone on girl who became the wife of essential colonial character.
his grave, which is to the right Emperor Muhammad Shah To the east of Civil Lines,
of the entrance, records that he (r.1719–48), laid out these near the Delhi-Chandigarh
“led the assault on Delhi but fell gardens in around 1748, and bypass, is Metcalfe House, a
mortally wounded and died 3rd although the Inter State Bus sprawling mansion built in the
September 1857, aged 35”. The Terminus and the Tourist Park 1830s by Sir Thomas Metcalfe,
surrounding graves belong to now occupy much of the Delhi’s eccentric British Resident
others like him who died at the original site, the imposing from 1835–53. This house, once
time of the Indian Mutiny, gateway still stands. The rest of the hub of British social life, can
between 10 May and 30 the present park is more modern be seen from the highway.
September 1857. The saddest with a children’s playground and It is now owned by the
are the tiny graves of children, a rather formidable statue of Defence Ministry and not
such as the headless angel the great Rajput king, Maharana open to the public.
mourning over Alfred and Ida Pratap. North of the gardens
Scott’s little daughter: “We gave is the children’s home run by
her back to bloom in heaven”. Mother Teresa’s Missionaries
To enter the cemetery, knock of Charity, where abandoned
on the gate and the chowkidar children are cared for.
will open it. There are no
entrance charges, but a small
tip (10–20 rupees) to the
White-plastered façade of the Oberoi Maidens Hotel in the Civil Lines area
FURTHER AFIELD 107
visible. Feroze Shah also had a

large hunting estate here where
he built a lodge called Kushak-i-
Shikar, a mosque, as well as a
double-storeyed mansion, the
Pir Ghaib, now in the grounds of
the Hindu Rao Hospital (enter
the main gate and turn right at
the Cardiac Unit). The name, Pir
Ghaib, derives from the tale of a
resident pir who, one day,
simply vanished (ghaib) while
meditating at this site. A
cenotaph in one of the rooms
marks the spot.
Statues of former viceroys in the Coronation Durbar site
6 Coronation 7 The Northern

Memorial Ridge
KB Hedgewar Rd, S of NH1 Bypass. Rani Jhansi Rd, Ridge Rd, Magazine
Tel (011) 2462 9365. q Vishwa Rd. Open sunrise–sunset.
Vidyalaya. Open sunrise–sunset.
The northern end of the Ridge
This was the site of the Royal is a forested park cut through
Durbar held in 1911 to proclaim by Ridge Road and Rani Jhansi
the accession of George V as Road, with the small clearing of
King Emperor of India. A red Bara Hindu Rao in the middle.
sandstone obelisk records that This area still resounds with
the King Emperor proclaimed memories of 1857. It was
his coronation to the “governors, around Flagstaff Tower, to the
princes and peoples of India” far north, that British women
(in that order) and “received and children took shelter before
their dutiful homage”. He also they were evacuated to Karnal Students unwind on the front lawns of
announced the transfer of the near Panipat (see p144). St Stephen’s College
capital from Calcutta to Delhi The Mutiny Memorial
and two days later laid the (known locally as Ajitgarh), at 8 Delhi University
foundation stones for the the southern end, is a red Vishwavidyalaya Marg.
new city (see pp72–3). On sandstone Victorian Gothic q Vishwa Vidyalaya.
12 December 1911, more than spire built by the British to
100,000 people thronged the commemorate “the soldiers, The university area runs parallel
site where the King Emperor and British and native … who were to the Northern Ridge, and
Queen Empress sat beneath a killed” in 1857, and lists colleges dot the vast campus.
golden dome mounted on a separately the names of Arguably the most attractive
crimson canopy. Today, the those who died. At the of these is St Stephen’s College,
site is a flat, dusty and forlorn entrance is a plaque, dated designed by Walter George in
spot, and ranged round in a 1972, which points out: “The 1938. With its long corridors
pathetic semi-circle are enemy of the inscriptions built in quartzite and its well-
statues of former viceroys, were those who fought kept gardens, it has some
evicted from their perches bravely for national deliberately cultivated Oxbridge
in the city to make way for liberation in 1857”. There associations. At one time this
later Indian leaders. These are panoramic views was one of India’s premier
include Lords Hardinge of Old Delhi from the institutions, with renowned
and Willingdon platform at the base scholars such as the historian
(distinguished for of the tower. Percival Spear on its staff. The
their role in the Nearby is a office of the Vice Chancellor
construction of 3rd-century was once the guesthouse for
New Delhi). Coronation Memorial Ashokan Pillar, British officials. It was here,
Towering over one of the two in what is now the registrar’s
them all is the 22 m (73 ft) statue Feroze Shah Tughlaq (see p101) office, that the young Lord Louis
of the King Emperor himself, brought from Meerut in 1356. Mountbatten proposed to,
draped in his Durbar robes, Faint inscriptions in Brahmi, and was accepted by, Edwina
which was removed from the extolling the virtues of Ashley. A plaque celebrates the
canopy at India Gate (see p75) practising dhamma (the event. They eventually became
and installed here in the 1960s. Buddhist Way of Truth), are still India’s last viceroy and vicereine.
and a 39 m (128 ft) tower, the

lines between the bricks being
the only ornamentation. Within
is a stark classical interior with
a plaque in honour of the
architect and a haunting tablet
in memory of the three children
of Private Spier who died within
days of each other at Abbottabad
(now in Pakistan) in 1938. If
the church is locked, contact
the Presbyter-in-Charge who
lives in the adjacent cottage.
A short distance from
Dhaula Kuan Circle is the
Image of the Buddha installed at Buddha Jayanti Park Commonwealth War Graves
Cemetery where lie the
9 The Ridge 0 Delhi Cantonment Commonwealth soldiers
Upper Ridge Rd. q Central Secretariat. Bounded by NH8, MG Rd and Sadar
and airmen who died on
Open sunrise–sunset. Buddha Jayanti Bazaar Marg. q Dhaula Kuan. St Martin’s the Eastern Front in World War II.
Park: Open 5am–7pm daily. Church: Church Rd. Tel (011) 2569 A monument at the entrance
4632. Commonwealth War Graves proudly declares: “Their Name
Delhi’s Ridge, the last outcrop Cemetery: Brar Square. Tel (011) 2569 Liveth Evermore”. The graves
of the Aravalli Hills extending 1958. Open 7:45am–5pm daily. 7 are set in neat rows with
northwards from Rajasthan, runs matching headstones; only
from southwest to northeast. The cantonment in Delhi the regimental insignia and
The area was originally was planned by John Begg biblical texts are different.
developed by Feroze Shah and built by the Military Every Remembrance Day
Tughlaq, some 600 years Works Department (11 Nov), wreaths are laid
ago as his hunting resort. in the 1930s. With its at the Memorial Column,
He erected many lodges, straight roads, neat, followed by a short prayer.
the ruins of which can whitewashed walls,
still be seen here and well-clipped hedges,
towards the northern end parade ground and q National
of the Ridge (see p107). shooting-range, it Rail Museum
This green belt epitomizes the quint-
Shanti Path, Chanakyapuri.
of undulating, rocky essential spit and q Race Course. Tel (011) 2688 1816.
terrain is covered by polish of the military. Open 9:30am–5:30pm Tue–Sun.
dense scrub forest Memorial tablet, The garrison Closed 1:30–2:30pm & public hols.
consisting mainly of Church of St Martin’s Church of St Martin’s, & extra for video and train rides. =
laburnum (Cassia fistula), probably the most
kikar (Acacia arabica) and flame original modern church in India’s railway network gives
of the forest (Butea monosperma) India, was designed by Lutyens’s rise to astonishing statistics. It
trees, interspersed with bright close associate, Arthur Gordon has a route length of 65,436 km
splashes of bougainvillea. Shoosmith (1888–1974). (40,660 miles) and tracks that
A large portion in the Consecrated in 1931 and built cover 115,000 km (71,458 miles).
southwest is now the Buddha from three and a half million There are about 7,150 stations,
Jayanti Park, a peaceful, well- bricks, it rises straight-walled 12,617 passenger trains, and
manicured enclave, criss-crossed with small, recessed windows 7,421 goods trains that run
with paved paths. Pipal (Ficus
religiosa) trees abound, and
on a small ornamental island
is a simple sandstone pavilion
shading the large gilt-covered
statue of the Buddha, installed
by the 14th Dalai Lama in
October 1993. An inscription
nearby quotes the Dalai Lama:
“Human beings have the
capacity to bequeathe to future
generations a world that is truly
human”. Every May, Buddhist
monks and devotees celebrate
Buddha Jayanti (see p42) here. The War Graves Cemetery
FURTHER AFIELD 109
every day. The railways employ w Safdarjung’s

1.6 million people, while 23 Tomb
million passengers travel by
Aurobindo Marg. q Jor Bagh.
train each day and eat 6 million
Tel (011) 2336 3607. Open sunrise–
meals through the journey.
sunset. & extra charges for
This museum encapsulates
video photography.
the history of Indian railways.
Steam locomotive enthusiasts This is the last of Delhi’s garden
will appreciate the collection tombs and was built in 1754
that traces the development for Safdarjung, the powerful
of the Indian railways from 1849, prime minister of Muhammad
when the first 34 km (21 miles) Shah, the emperor between
of railway between Bombay 1719–48. Marble was allegedly
(now Mumbai) and Kalyan stripped from the tomb of
was planned. The wealth of Abdur Rahim Khan-i-Khanan
memorabilia on display inside in Nizamuddin (see p86) to
includes the skull of an elephant construct this rather florid Shops selling traditional items of clothing
which collided with a mail train example of late Mughal at Dilli Haat
at Golkara in 1894, and a architecture. Approached
realistic model of an 1868 first- by an ornate gateway, the e Dilli Haat
class passenger coach with top storey of which houses Laxmi Bai Nagar, Aurobindo Marg.
separate compartments the Archaeological Survey of q INA. Tel (011) 462 9365.
for accompanying servants. India’s library, the tomb, with Open 11am–10pm daily. &
Outside, are several retired its exaggerated onion-shaped
steam locomotives built in dome, stands in a charbagh This lively bazaar retains all
Manchester, Glasgow and cut by water channels. the trappings of a traditional
Darlington in the late 19th Its red and buff stone façade Indian village market, with
century, and the splendid is extensively ornamented acres of landscaped gardens,
salon that carried the Prince with well-preserved plaster handicraft shops and regional
of Wales (later King Edward VII) carving, and the central food stalls. Everything you
on his travels during the 1876 chamber itself is unusually can imagine can be found
Royal Durbar. light and airy with some at Dilli Haat – readymade
A “toy train” offers rides fine stone inlay work set garments, spices, bags, brass
around the compound, and the into the floor. artifacts, jewellery, shawls,
shop sells model locomotives, pottery, and much more.
ranging from ₹1,000 to 3,000. Diplomats, out-of-town
shoppers and locals patronize
this market for its reasonable
prices and variety of products.
Often, themed bazaars are
organized during festivals,
such as Teej, Diwali, or the
Mango festival. The items
are produced by artisans
who purchase a spot in the
market on a 15-day rotation
basis. In the process, there is
always something unique to
A steam engine at the National Rail Museum discover here.
There are about 17 food
stalls, each representing a
Cantonment Towns different state in India. Run
After the 1860s, over 170 cantonments by their respective tourism
(pronounced “cantoonment”) were built authorities, the stalls offer
on the outskirts of major towns to impress delicious authentic dishes
Indians with the seriousness of British military from distant and diverse
might. Each was a self-contained world, with regions, such as Tamil Nadu,
symmetrical rows of barracks, finely graded Manipur and Kashmir. If you
bungalows, clubs and regimental messes, are lucky, you may even
bazaars, hospitals and churches. Military experience a state-organized
hierarchies, too, were rigidly followed. cultural event, complete with
Even after Independence, the military is Indian cavalry officer, puppet shows, dances,
mostly stationed in cantonment areas. pre-World War II regional cuisine, paintings,
and much shopping.
r Moth ki Masjid Feroze Shah Tughlaq’s reign. teachers’ burial mounds.

Behind South Extension, Part II.
In 1352, the sultan constructed The tomb of Feroze Shah
a number of buildings on the lies at one end of the madrasa.
Built in 1505 by Miyan Bhuwa, banks of Hauz Khas, the large Wine-red painted plaster
Sikander Lodi’s prime minister, tank (now dry) excavated by calligraphy decorates the
the design of this graceful red Alauddin Khilji for his city of interior of the austere tomb.
sandstone structure with Siri (see p112). Contemporary The complex is best viewed
its five-arched, accounts claim in the afternoon when sunlight
three-domed that Feroze Shah filters through the jaalis carved
prayer hall was was a prolific into the linteled archway, to
developed further builder, and cover the graves of the sultan,
in later Mughal during his his sons and grandson with
mosques. Over 37-year reign delicate star-shaped shadows.
the central arch he constructed East of Hauz Khas, off
is a fine jharokha Detail of Moth ki Masjid an astounding Aurobindo Marg, is a small
with traces of the 40 mosques, rubble-built tapering structure
original plaster decoration. 200 towns, 100 public baths called Chor Minar (“tower
The red sandstone gateway and about 30 reservoirs. of thieves”) with a staircase,
and the ornate decorations Among the buildings here now locked, leading to the top.
on the mosque’s façade are are a madrasa, Feroze Shah’s This dates to the 14th-century
also noteworthy. It is said tomb and the ruins of a small Khilji period and its walls,
that Sikander Lodi gave Miyan mosque at the extreme north pockmarked with holes, are
Bhuwa a moth (lentil seed) of the complex. The double said to have held the severed
which reaped him such rich storeyed madrasa was built heads of thieves to deter
returns that he was able to so that the tank and lower others from crime.
endow this mosque. Sadly, he storey were at the same level, Close by, to the northwest, is
annoyed Sikander’s successor, while the upper floor was the Nili Masjid (“blue mosque”),
Ibrahim Lodi (r.1517–26), who at ground level. Refreshing named after the blue tiles
had him put to death. breezes across the water above its chhajja. The inscription
must have once cooled the on the central of its three arches
theological discussions held reveals that it was built in 1505
t Hauz Khas there by scholars. The low by one Kasumbhil, the nurse
W of Aurobindo Marg. q Hauz Khas.
domes, colonnades and of the son of the governor of
jharokhas relieve the severity Delhi. Nearby is an Idgah,
Beyond the boutiques, art of its façade, while plaster whose remaining long wall
galleries and restaurants that carvings and deep niches for is carved with 11 mihrabs and
have taken over the former books embellish the interior. an inscription proclaiming that
village of Hauz Khas, are the The chhatris in the entrance it was built in 1404–5 by Iqbal
medieval monuments from forecourt are said to cover the Khan, a Tughlaq noble.
The double-storeyed madrasa at Hauz Khas

FURTHER AFIELD 111
The Seven Cities of Delhi

Delhi’s famous “seven cities” range from the 12th-century Qila Rai Pithora, built
by Prithviraj Chauhan (see p52), to the imperial Shahjahanabad, constructed in
the 17th century. Each of these cities comprised the settlements that grew around
the forts and palaces erected by powerful sultans with territorial ambitions. As the
Sultanate was consolidated, the rulers moved their capitals from those defensively
situated in the rocky outcrops of the Aravallis, northwards towards the open plains
by the banks of the Yamuna. Today, Delhi is an amalgam of medieval citadels,
palaces, tombs and mosques, and a spreading, modern concrete jungle.
Ferozabad, stretching north

from Hauz Khas to the banks
of the Yamuna, is Delhi’s fifth
city built by Feroze Shah
Tughlaq (r.1351–88).
Shahjahanabad was Delhi’s Shahjahanabad

seventh city, built between
1638 and 1649 by Shah Jahan
who shifted the Mughal capital
here from Agra (see pp154–5). Ferozabad
Purana Qila
Siri, Delhi’s second city,
can still be seen near the
Siri Fort Auditorium and
the adjacent village of
Shahpur Jat (see p112).
The once prosperous
city of Siri was built by
Alauddin Khilji in 1303. Purana Qila, the
citadel (see p88) of
Delhi’s sixth city, was
built by Humayun.
It was captured and
occupied by the Afghan
Siri chieftain, Sher Shah
Sur (r.1540–45) who
Jahanpanah
called it Shergarh.
Qila Rai Pithora
Tughlaqabad
Jahanpanah was built

by Muhammad-bin-
Tughlaq (r.1325–51)
as a walled enclosure
to link Qila Rai Pithora
and Siri. The ruined Qila Rai Pithora was the first of Tughlaqabad, a dramatic fortress
battlements of Delhi’s Delhi’s seven cities, built by the (see p118) on the foothills of the
fourth city stand near Chauhans in about 1180. In 1192, Aravallis, was Delhi’s third city, built
Chiragh (see p112). it was captured by Qutbuddin during Ghiyasuddin Tughlaq’s
Aibak who established his capital four-year reign (1321–5).
here (see pp114–5).
village lanes, past rows

of tailoring establishments
(including one specializing
in burqas) and shops
selling varieties of mithai
(“sweetmeats”), chadors, flower
garlands and other religious
offerings. Some ruined havelis,
which must have once been
very beautiful, also line the
street. A huge arched door-
way leads to the dargah,
a quieter and simpler shrine
than that of Hazrat Nizamuddin.
Shaded by trees, the tomb
Ruins of Siri, Delhi’s second city built by Alauddin Khilji is set in a 12-pillared square
chamber, enclosed by jaali
y Siri Fort u Chiragh Delhi screens and surmounted
Asiad Village Complex, August Kranti Bordered by Outer Ring Rd & LB
by a large plastered dome
Marg, Siri Fort Rd. Siri Fort Auditorium: Shastri Marg. q Green Park. rising from an octagonal drum.
Tel (011) 2649 3370/9397. q Green Park. Small domed turrets stand at
The dargah of the Sufi saint the four corners. The roof inside
Some crumbling ramparts Nasiruddin Mahmud (died has been embellished with fine
are all that remain of Alauddin 1356), who succeeded Hazrat painted plaster carvings set with
Khilji’s 14th-century city of Siri Nizamuddin Auliya (see p86) mirrors, clearly a recent addition.
(see p111). The ruins of mosques as spiritual leader of the Chishti Within the enclosure are several
and tombs can be found in the sect, lies in the once secluded smaller mosques and halls,
adjoining village of Shahpur Jat, village of Chiragh Delhi. added over the years for
today a shopper’s paradise with This saint, known as Raushan religious discourses.
many up-market boutiques, Chiragh-i-Dehlvi (“illuminated At the far end from the
offices and a few art galleries. lamp of Delhi”), was buried gateway is a partially ruined
Siri Fort is commonly associated here and the village that grew tomb that is locally claimed
with the Siri Fort Auditorium around his tomb was named to be that of Bahlol Lodi
which regularly hosts concerts after him. Muhammad-bin- (r. 1451–89), the founder of
and film festivals. It is directly Tughlaq, the sultan at that the Lodi dynasty. The chhajja
adjacent to the Asian Games time, built the original village has collapsed, but the square
Village complex where there walls in the 14th century. chamber is still surmounted
are speciality restaurants The shrine itself is small and by five domes, the central
serving Indian, Chinese should be approached on foot being the largest. The arches
and Mexican cuisine. through the narrow, congested have engraved inscriptions.
Women devotees worshipping at Chiragh Delhi

FURTHER AFIELD 113
Covered corridors with arches in the 14th-century Begumpuri Mosque, Jahanpanah
i Khirkee was found unsuitable for large o Jahanpanah

N of Press Enclave Marg.
congregations, so this design S of Panchsheel Park. q Hauz Khas.
q Malaviya Nagar. was never repeated.
Satpula (“seven-arches”), In the heart of Jahanpanah,
The village adjacent to Chiragh the dam and stone weir built Muhammad-bin-Tughlaq’s
Delhi is called “Khirkee” after by Muhammad-bin-Tughlaq capital, stands Begumpuri
the huge mosque built by in 1326, is located just down Mosque, also built by Khan-
Feroze Shah the same road. i-Jahan Junan Shah. (When
Tughlaq’s prime It formed part asking for directions, it is
minister, Khan-i- of the reservoir advisable to specifically ask for
Jahan Junan Shah which was used the old mosque, as a new one is
(see p100) in the for irrigation, and located nearby.) Built on a high
mid-14th century. the grooves, plinth with massive, typically
Standing today in meant for sliding Tughlaq walls, the mosque has
a declivity and the shutters that a single imposing doorway at
surrounded by regulate the flow the head of a flight of stairs
village houses, is of water, can still leading into the vast rectangular
the unusual two- be seen on courtyard which is surrounded
storeyed Khirkee the seven arches. by arched cloisters, surmounted
(“windows”) Detail of an arched window The weir also by 44 small domes. The prayer
Mosque. It has with jaali, Khirkee Mosque formed a portion hall has 24 arched openings,
a sombre fortress- of the fortified wall the central one surmounted
like appearance with bastions enclosing the city of Jahanpanah by a large dome. It is said that
on all four corners, and its (see p111). Its upper storey in times of need, this mosque
severe façade is broken by was used as a madrasa during also functioned as a treasury,
rows of arched windows Muhammad-bin-Tughlaq’s time. granary and meeting place.
that are covered by Nearby, to the north, is the
portcullis-like jaalis palace of Bijay Mandal, a
which give the derelict, brooding octagonal
mosque its name. structure rising from a high plinth.
Built on a high It is worth climbing the broken
plinth, flights of stone-cut stairs to the upper
stairs lead up to platform to get a sense of its
imposing gateways size. According to the famed
on the north, south 14th-century Arab traveller, Ibn
and east sides. The Batuta, it was from these very
inner courtyard is bastions that Muhammad-bin-
partly covered, its Tughlaq held public audience
roof supported by and reviewed his troops. Later,
monolithic stone in the early 16th century, the
pillars, and crowned palace is believed to have been
by nine sets of nine used as a residence by Sheikh
small domes. Only Hasan Tahir, a much revered
four courtyards saint who visited Delhi during
remain open to the the reign of Sikandar Lodi.
sky. This was the first Panoramic views of the city
example of this type of Delhi, extending from the
of mosque design. Qutb Minar to Humayun’s
But the division of Tomb and beyond, can be
open space by pillars The fortress-like Khirkee Mosque seen from its upper platform.
p Mehrauli Archaeological Park

Best known for the Qutb Minar, a World Heritage monument,
Mehrauli was built over Rajput territories known as Lal Kot and
Qila Rai Pithora. In 1193, Qutbuddin Aibak made this the centre
of the Sultanate of Delhi and by the 13th century a small village,
Mehrauli, had grown around the shrine of the Sufi saint, Qutb
Sahib. Later, Mughal princes came to Mehrauli to hunt and
some 19th-century British officials built weekend houses here,
attracted by its orchards, ponds and abundant game (shikar).
It is still a popular weekend retreat for Delhi’s rich and famous. Dargah Qutb Sahib
This 13th-century dargah
is still a pilgrimage point.
. Jahaz Mahal
Venue of the
Phoolwalon ki Sair
(see p44), this square
pleasure pavilion,
built during the
Lodi era (1451–1526),
seems to float on the
Hauz-i-Shamsi tank.
KEY
1 Bagichi Masjid
2 Jharna (waterfall) was so-called
because after the monsoon, water
from the Hauz-i-Shamsi would flow
over an embankment into a garden.
3 Hauz-i-Shamsi is a large reservoir
built in 1230 by Iltutmish, who is
supposed to have been guided to
this site by the Prophet in a dream.
4 Zafar Mahal is a palace
named after the nom de plume Madhi Masjid
of the last Mughal emperor, Surrounded by bastions and
Bahadur Shah Zafar. a high wall, this fortress-like
mosque has a large open
5 Mehrauli village courtyard and a three-
6 Dilkusha arched, profusely
ornamented prayer hall.
M E H R A U L I A R C H A E O LO G I C A L PA R K 115
Anuvrat Marg, Mehrauli.
Open 8am–7pm daily. = m 0
_ Phoolwalon ki Sair (early Oct).
Transport
q Qutb Minar.
Adham Khan’s Tomb
Built by Akbar in the 16th century,
this was rescued from decay by Lord . Qutb Minar
Curzon (see p61). The Qutb (Arabic for pole or axis)
area saw the advent of Islamic rule
in India. The world’s highest brick
minaret, this is the focus of an early
Islamic complex (see p116).
0 metres 250
0 yards 250
New Delhi
Rajon ki Baoli
This dramatic three-
storeyed stepwell was also
called Sukhi Baoli (dry well).
Nearby is the five-storeyed
Gandhak ki Baoli, named
after its strong sulphur
(gandhak) smell. These
baolis once supplied
fresh water to the area.
Balban’s Tomb
Balban’s 13th-century tomb
lies in a square rubble-built
chamber, open to the sky.
. Jamali-Kamali Mosque and Tomb

The tomb of Jamali (the court poet during the
late Lodi and early Mughal age) is inscribed with
some of his verses. Its well-preserved interior
has coloured tiles and richly decorated painted
plasterwork. The second grave is unidentified but
is widely believed to be that of his brother, Kamali.
The Qutb Complex

The Qutb Minar towers over this historic area where Qutbuddin
Aibak laid the foundation of the Delhi Sultanate (see pp54–5).
In 1193, he built the Quwwat-ul-Islam (“the might of Islam”)
Mosque and the Qutb Minar to announce the advent of the
Muslim sultans. Later, Iltutmish, Alauddin Khilji and Feroze Shah
Tughlaq added other buildings, bringing in a new architectural
style (see p30). The fusion of decorative Hindu panels and Islamic Iron Pillar
domes and arches shows the mingling of two cultures. This 4th-century pillar,
originally made as a flagstaff
in Vishnu’s honour, is a tribute
to ancient Indian metallurgy.
Alauddin Khilji’s Iltutmish’s

Tomb Tomb
Qutb Minar
The five-storeyed Victory Tower
started by Qutbuddin Aibak
was completed by his
successor, Iltutmish.
Carved Panels
Panels, carved with
inscriptions from
the Koran, embellish
the gateway.
Alai Darwaza
This gateway to the complex, erected in
1311 by Alauddin Khilji, is one of the earliest
buildings in India to employ the Islamic
principles of arched construction (see p30).
Imam Zamin’s Tomb

M E H R A U L I A R C H A E O LO G I C A L PA R K 117
Mehrauli, Delhi-Gurgaon Rd.
Tel (011) 2336 5358. Open 5:30am–
7pm daily. & _ Qutb Festival
(Oct–Nov). 8 = 0
Transport
q Qutb Minar.
Dargah Qutb Sahib, shrine of the Sufi saint Qutbuddin Bakhtiyar “Kaki”
Exploring Mehrauli structure standing on a high

Clustered round the dargah of platform. This is believed to be
Qutb Sahib, Mehrauli the last of the octagonal
became a sylvan retreat for tombs built in Delhi and its
the later Mughals and top shaded colonnades are
officials of the East India much favoured by local
Company. Its medieval youth for their siestas.
bazaar survives despite Medallion with Adham Khan, the son of
its recent conversion calligraphy Akbar’s wet nurse,
into boutiques and cafés, Maham Anga (see p89),
Iltutmish’s Tomb popular with Delhi’s “smart set”. was considered a foster-brother
Built in 1235 by Iltutmish of the emperor. In 1562, Adham
himself, its dome has  Dargah Qutb Sahib Khan killed a rival, Atgah Khan,
vanished. The interior is Open 4am–3pm daily. the husband of another wet
carved with geometric and In the heart of the Mehrauli nurse (see p86). A furious Akbar
calligraphic patterns. bazaar, lies the dargah of a Sufi ordered Adham Khan’s execution,
saint called Qutbuddin Bakhtiyar but was so moved by the death
or “Kaki”, after the small sugared of his mother, Maham Anga, 40
cakes (kaki) he was fed when he days later, that he had a tomb
fasted. It has been rebuilt several built for both mother and son.
times since his death in 1235, By far the largest building
To Entrance so that today many mosques, here, the tomb is locally
tanks and chambers surround known as the bhulbhulaiyan
it, among them the lovely Moti (maze) because of the narrow
Masjid (“pearl mosque”) built in passages concealed within
1709. A domed marble pavilion its walls. In the 1800s, the
contains his grave, which women British used the tomb as a
may only view through the rest-house, police station and
marble jaalis. A royal necropolis residence for minor officials.
in the same area has the graves
of some later Mughal kings, such
as Bahadur Shah I (1707–12) and
Akbar II (1806–37). The dargah
and the Jogmaya Temple
are the starting point for the
Phoolwalon ki Sair (see p44),
the procession of flower-sellers
which began in the 1720s as
a floral tribute to the Mughal
emperor. Revived by Nehru
after 1947, it is now an
important cultural event.
Quwwat-ul-Islam Mosque  Adham Khan’s Tomb

Hindu motifs, such as Open sunrise–sunset daily.
tasselled ropes and bells, are Near the bus terminus, at the
clearly visible on the carved approach to Mehrauli village, A sunlit corridor in the tomb of Adham
pillars of this mosque. is an imposing, single-domed Khan, the son of Maham Anga
s Sultan Ghari d Tughlaqabad

C-9, Vasant Kunj, off Mahipalpur- Off Mehrauli-Badarpur Rd. q Saket.
Mehrauli Rd. q Chattarpur. Open 5:30am–7pm daily. &
Open daily. &
This spectacular fortress, built
Sultan Ghari was the first Islamic by Ghiyasuddin Tughlaq in the
tomb to be built in Delhi and 14th century (see p111), was
among the earliest in India. completed in just four years.
The ruler of the Slave dynasty, The quality of its construction
Iltutmish, erected this tomb in was influenced by building
1231 for his eldest son and heir, techniques in Multan where
Nasiruddin Muhammad, who Ghiyasuddin had served as
was killed in battle. Today, its governor. It was so sturdy that
Rural huts and terracotta pots at the fortress-like exterior appears the rubble-built walls clinging
Sanskriti Museum out of place in the midst of one to the shape of the hill, survive
of Delhi’s largest residential intact all along the 6.5 km (4 mile)
a Sanskriti complexes, Vasant Kunj. Inside perimeter. To the right of the
Anandgram, Mehrauli-Gurgaon Rd.
is a raised courtyard, and the main entrance is the citadel
Tel (011) 2652 7077. q Arjangarh. tomb itself is an octagonal from which rise the ruins of
Open 10am–5pm Tue–Sun. platform, forming the roof the Vijay Mandal (“tower
Closed Mon & public hols. of the crypt (ghar) below. of victory”). To the left
Like many monuments is a rectangular area
This unusual museum is set of this early medieval where arches are
amidst beautifully landscaped period, Sultan Ghari all that remain
spacious grounds where exhibits was constructed of a complex of
are displayed both in the garden from pillars and palaces and halls.
and in specially constructed stones taken from Beyond these,
rural huts. The collection, too, temples nearby. houses were
is equally unusual. It is devoted Fragments of Ghiyasuddin Tughlaq’s Tomb once laid out
to traditional objects of everyday these are visible in in a neat grid
use, exquisitely crafted by an the surrounding colonnades, pattern. Legend has it that when
unknown, unsung, rural artisan. which may have once housed a Ghiyasuddin tried to prevent
OP Jain, whose personal madrasa. The mihrab on the west the building of the baoli at
collections gave birth to this side has some fine calligraphic Hazrat Nizamuddin Auliya’s
museum, has donated exquisite decoration and, interestingly, dargah (see p86), the saint
combs, nutcrackers, lamps, there is a marble yonipatta, the cursed him by saying that one
foot-scrubbers and kitchenware. base of a Shiva linga (see p311) day only jackals and the Gujjar
Terracotta objects from all over embedded in the floor. tribe would inhabit his capital.
India are also on display. The The tomb, located on the road Perhaps the saint forgot to add
pots are especially dazzling, from Andheria More to Delhi tourists and monkeys to that list!
particularly as their production Airport, is reached after turning A good view of the fort and
techniques have not changed left from the Spinal Injuries Centre of the adjoining smaller fort of
for centuries. and taking the next left after that. Adilabad is possible from the
The crumbling ramparts of Tughlaqabad Fort

FURTHER AFIELD 119
The lotus-domed Baha’i House of Worship, one of Delhi’s most spectacular sights
walls. Adilabad was built f Kalkaji Temple Legend has it that a farmer, on
by Muhammad-bin-Tughlaq Block 9, Lotus Temple Rd, Nehru Place.
discovering that his cow regularly
(r.1325–51), who is believed q Kalkaji Mandir. Open 6am–10pm offered her milk to the goddess,
to have killed his father daily. _ Navaratri (Mar–Apr & Sep–Oct). built this temple in her name.
Ghiyasuddin by contriving
to have a gateway collapse This temple is a good place to
on him. They are both buried see Hinduism in bustling, popular g Baha’i House
in Ghiyasuddin’s Tomb, joined practice. It is approached through of Worship
to the Tughlaqabad Fort by a a narrow winding alley, lined with Bahapur, Kalkaji. Tel (011) 2644 4029.
causeway that crossed the stalls selling laminated religious Open Apr–Sep: 9am–7pm Tue–Sun;
dammed waters of a lake. prints, bangles, sindur (vermilion Oct–Mar: 9am–5:30pm Tue–Sun.
The tomb was the first in India powder) and fruit, while devotional Closed Mon & public hols. Prayer
to be built with sloping walls, a hymns blast from rival cassette services: 10am, noon, 3pm & 5pm.
design that was repeated in all stalls. The 12-domed temple,
subsequent Tughlaq architecture. with a heavily decorated pillared Just opposite the Kalkaji Temple
Its severe red sandstone walls, pavilion, was built in the mid-18th is the Baha’i House of Worship,
relieved by white marble inlay, century on an older site by Raja a world where silence and order
are surmounted by a white Kedarnath, prime minister of prevails. The arresting shape of its
marble dome. The red sandstone Emperor Akbar II. Thereafter, many unfurling 27-petalled white marble
kalasha (urn) which crowns it and contemporary additions, financed lotus has given it its more popular
the lintel spanning the arched by rich merchants, have been name, the Lotus Temple. The
opening, decorated with a lotus made. The goddess Kali or Kalka, edifice, circled by nine pools and
bud fringe, are both influenced draped in silks, sits under silver 27 acres (92 ha) of green manicured
by Hindu architecture. umbrellas and a marble canopy. lawns, is one of Delhi’s most
innovative modern structures.
The Baha’i sect originated in
Persia and this temple was
designed by the Iranian architect,
Fariborz Sahba. Construction
began in 1980 and was com-
pleted in 1986. Inside, the lofty
auditorium can seat 1,300 and all
are welcome to meditate there
and attend the daily 15-minute
services. Concerts with a social
message are held here often.
There is an Information Centre as
well, designed for those interested
to learn about the faith. The temple
looks spectacular after dark when
the lighting gives the marble
Inside the Kalkaji Temple panels a luminous, ethereal quality.
1 Sultanpur
Day Trips from Delhi Bird Sanctuary
If you want a break from the hustle and bustle of Delhi
46 km (27 miles) W of Delhi. n Haryana
and wish to explore the surrounding countryside, there Tourism, Chanderlok Building, Janpath,
are several interesting sights to visit, all within a 50-km Delhi, (011) 2332 4911. q Huda City
(30-mile) radius of the city. The lake at Sultanpur is a haven Centre. Open sunrise–sunset Wed–
for migratory birds in winter, and in Pataudi is a beautiful Mon. Closed Tue. - & = O
palace which belongs to its cricket-loving nawabs, now open This sanctuary, a two-hour
to tourists. Surajkund, with its vast medieval reservoir, is the drive from Delhi, has been
venue of a popular crafts fair held every February. All these developed around a low-
excursions take about eight hours. Since they are not lying marshy area that is dry
in summer, but fills up during
particularly easy to reach by public transport, it is best to
the monsoon to form a shallow
hire a car and driver for the day, which can be organized lake (jheel). Sultanpur is at
by your hotel or local taxi rank and is relatively inexpensive. its best in the winter when
this shallow sheet of water
provides a haven for
NH1
Rohtak
Yam
NH
10
migratory birds.
Several pleasant walks,
una
Bahadurgarh
Rampur including a paved pathway
New NH24
Jhajjar Delhi
which runs around the small
Indira Gandhi
Ghaziabad lake, allow visitors to explore the
International
Airport 35-km (22-mile) area, while
the many hides or machans,
Gurgaon Faridabad mounted on stilts, provide a
good view of the birdlife on
NH2
the lake. The Sarus crane, the

Ballabhgarh
8 world’s tallest flying bird, breeds
NH Sohna
Rewari in the mud spits covered with
Palwal reeds that rise above the waters.
Often, on late winter evenings,
large, noisy flocks of demoiselle
cranes descend on the lake.
Jaipur Agra
The other birds that visit the
lake include egrets, herons,
Sights at a Glance Key kingfishers, pelicans and
1 Sultanpur Bird Sanctuary City centre painted storks.
2 Pataudi National highway The rolling tree-shaded lawns,
3 Surajkund Major road
home to herds of friendly deer,
have beautifully sited picnic
Minor road
spots. The sanctuary shop has
0 kilometres 50
a good selection of books and
0 miles 25 posters on Indian birdlife.
Sultanpur, home to a variety of deer and many migratory birds

FURTHER AFIELD 121
2 Pataudi
60 km (37 miles) S of Delhi. Ibrahim
Kothi: 0 Advance reservations are
essential. Tel (011) 4666 1666.
The two-hour drive to Pataudi

is a pleasant one, particularly
after crossing Gurgaon when
the road runs through open
wheat fields and occasional
villages. Pataudi, a typical
North Indian town with a
tangle of narrow lanes and
a congested bazaar, is famous
for its cricket-playing nawabs
who claim descent from a Elegant interior of Ibrahim Kothi
16th-century Afghan noble.
The old palace, built about chandeliers and chintz 3 Surajkund
200 years ago, is now derelict, furnishings. The walls are 21 km (13 miles) S of Delhi. n Haryana
but still retains its romantic lined with portraits and Tourism, Chanderlok Building, Janpath,
charm. The new palace, sepia photographs of the Delhi, (011) 2332 4911. & - s
known as Ibrahim Kothi, present nawab’s ancestors.
was built in 1939. The elegant One is of his father as a King Surajpal of the Rajput
white, double-storeyed member of the famous Tomar dynasty (see p52), hero
building, set amidst 10 acres “bodyline” English cricket of many legends, built this
(4 ha) of flowering gardens, team which toured Australia reservoir some time in the
has deep, pillared verandahs in the 1930s. late 10th or early 11th century.
and is surmounted by a small A section of this palace An embankment of stone
dome. The well-maintained has now been refurbished terraces was built round a
interior includes polished and is run as a hotel; perfect pool which trapped rain water
parquet floors, pink Venetian for a truly royal holiday. running down from the hills.
A sun temple is thought to
have stood on the western
side. Tomar Rajputs trace their
descent from the sun, hence
the name: suraj (sun) kund
(pool). Today, the embankment
is more or less intact, though
there is no trace of the temple
and the pool itself is none too
clean. The nearby artificial lake is
picturesque and is best enjoyed
Ibrahim Kothi at Pataudi from the paddle or rowing
boats on hire. You might even
glimpse a pale green water
Surajkund Crafts Mela snake swimming alongside.
For two weeks in early February, Surajkund comes alive with About 2 km (1.5 miles) to
the sounds and colours of one of India’s largest arts and crafts the west is Anangpur Dam
fairs. Craftsmen and artisans from every part of the country sell built by the Tomar king,
their wares at a specially created village, under thatched canopies Anangpal. A rather impressive
decorated with rangoli. Here, mirrorwork from Gujarat, painted quartzite stone stucture, it
puppets from Jaipur, fanciful bell-metal beasts from Orissa and blocks a narrow ravine to
Madhubani paintings from Bihar can be found at a wide range create an artificial lake. The
of prices. There are balloon
dam is reached on foot, but
sellers and food stalls to give
it is an extremely brambly
the mela a carnival air, while
folk dancers and musicians and rocky walk and best
in colourful costumes avoided in rainy weather.
weave in and out of the This area is a popular picnic
crowds. The evenings, spot for Delhi’s residents.
given over to folk theatre, Haryana Tourism and the
dance and music Delhi Transport Corporation
performances, attract A performance by folk singers at the run special daily buses to
huge crowds. Surajkund Crafts Mela Surajkund during the annual
crafts mela (see p45).
SHOPPING IN DELHI
The hallmark of shopping in Delhi is vegetables, fruits and traditional
the fabulous variety of styles, merchandise handicrafts to designer clothes and
and markets. Besides Connaught Place, the latest imported electronic items.
almost every residential colony boasts Be prepared to bargain where required,
a market. Old, established shops and even a small success will make your
bazaars co-exist happily with glitzy high- shopping spree in Delhi a complete
end boutiques and department stores, and satisfying experience. For practical
and one can buy anything from seasonal information, see page 258.
Shops and Markets Antiques, Carpets

New Delhi’s main shopping and Shawls
centres are in Connaught Genuine antiques are rare to
Place and Janpath where come by and cannot be taken
the Central Cottage Industries out of the country unless
offers an exciting and varied certified by the ASI (see p273).
range of textiles, jewellery However, hotel shops, Sundar
and souvenirs at fixed and Nagar and the Crafts Museum
reasonable prices. Indian Shop stock excellent
handicrafts and handlooms reproductions of miniature
are available at the state paintings, woodcarving and
emporia on Baba Kharak Singh bronzes made by artisans today.
Marg, Dilli Haat and the Crafts Contemporary silverware is
Museum Shop (see available at Cooke
pp90–91). & Kelvey and
In the north is Ravissant. For
Chandni Chowk (see Afghan and Kashmiri A selection of cotton dhurries from Fabindia
p97), the traditional carpets and shawls, on display
market, while to the such as the paisley
south are Khan Market, jamawar and pashmina, Textiles and Quilts
Sundar Nagar and Silver fruit bowl the best outlets are Indian silks and cotton are
Santushti. The old urban Cottage Industries and famous throughout the world.
villages of Hauz Khas, Shahpur The Carpet Cellar. Cottage Industries and the state
Jat and Mehrauli have trendy emporia have a good selection
boutiques where shoppers of textiles from different parts of
can explore a variety of Jewellery India. Fabindia, The Shop, Tulsi,
designer clothes. The South Superb pieces of traditional Cottons and Anokhi are fine
Extension, Lajpat Nagar and jewellery, such as kundan and places to shop for good quality
Sarojini Nagar markets are meenakari, are available at ready-made garments, linen
popular with local shoppers. Bharany’s. The best places for and light cotton quilts, while
The five-star hotels, too, have silver jewellery are Dariba Kalan, Shyam Ahuja sells dhurries
shopping arcades that sell in Chandni Chowk, and Sundar and linen. The best selection
carefully-selected goods. Nagar market. of designer clothes and
accessories is available
at Abraham & Thakore.
Leather
Leather goods, in particular
shoes and bags, are found in
most major shopping areas
such as Connaught Place, Khan
Market and South Extension.
For quality hand-made shoes
and jackets, the Chinese-
owned outlets, such as John
Brothers, still set the standards
for comfort and durability.
For trendier goods there is
Da Milano, which has
Brass and copper vessels and other objects on sale, Sundar Nagar market several branches.
SHOPPING IN DELHI 123
Handicrafts and Gifts

Indian handicrafts are available
at the state emporia, specifically
Kamala, the Crafts Museum
Shop and Dilli Haat on Aurobindro
Marg. Tibet House has
thangkas, carpets, woollen
shawls and jackets. The Neemrana
Shop and Good Earth have
a good selection of gift items,
such as candles, handmade
paper products and artifacts
in ceramics, wood and metal.
Embroidered textiles sold on Janpath

Books, Music and
Newspapers second-hand books is held on Market. Good Earth (see
Every local market has stalls the pavements of Daryaganj Handicrafts and Gifts) also
selling newspapers, magazines, where it is possible to pick sells Amritam, its own
CDs and bestsellers. The largest up interesting bargains. aromatheraphy brand.
number of books and music Spices, dry and fresh seasonal
shops are in South Extension, fruit are found at INA Market
Khan Market and Vasant Vihar. Speciality Shops while Steak House and the
Tekson’s Bookshop and Full In Chandni Chowk’s Dariba Gourmet Shoppe at The Oberoi
Circle stock a wide variety Kalan is Gulab Singh Johari (see p238) stock a wide variety
of books by international Mal, a marvellous old-fashioned of cheese, cold cuts, breads
publishing houses. Motilal shop where one can test Indian and pasteries. Indian tea, from
Banarsidas in Old Delhi perfumes from lovely cutglass the gardens of Assam and
specializes in books on bottles. Herbal cosmetics by Darjeeling, can be found
Indology. Every Sunday, Kama and Forest Essentials are at various outlets in Khan
a bazaar selling old and found in their outlets at Khan Market and at Aapki Pasand.
DIRECTORY
Antiques, Carpets Textiles Leather Books, Music
and Shawls and Quilts and Newspapers
Da Milano
Cooke & Kelvey Abraham & Thakore 39–B, Khan Market. Full Circle
3, Scindia House, India 4, Nelson Mandela Marg, Map 5 B3. Khan Market.
Connaught Lane, Janpath. DLF Emporium, Vasant Tel (011) 4175 1755. Map 5 B3.
Map 1 C5. Kunj. Tel (011) 4606 0995. John Brothers Tel (011) 2465 5641.
Tel (011) 2331 4095. Anokhi 216, Competent House, Motilal Banarsidas
32, Khan Market. Map 5 B3. F-Block, Connaught
Cottage Industries Jawahar Nagar.
Tel (011) 2460 3423. Place. Map 1 C4.
Jawahar Vypar Bhawan, Tel (011) 2385 8335.
Tel (011) 2331 6158.
Janpath. Map 1 C5. Cottons Tekson’s Bookshop
Tel (011) 2332 0439. N-Block Market, Handicrafts South Extension Market.
Crafts Museum Shop Greater Kailash I. and Gifts Tel (011) 4164 6505.
Pragati Maidan. Map 6 D2. Tel (011) 4163 5108.
Good Earth Speciality Shops
Tel (011) 2337 1887. Fabindia Santushti. Map 4 E4.
Ravissant N-Block Market, Tel (011) 2410 0108. Aapki Pasand
50–51, Commercial Greater Kailash I.
Kamala 15, Netaji Subhash
Complex, New Friends Tel (011) 4669 3725/23.
Rajiv Gandhi Handicrafts Marg. Map 2 E3.
Colony. Tel (011) 2683 7278. Shyam Ahuja Bhavan, Baba Kharak Tel (011) 2326 0373.
Santushti. Map 4 E4. Singh Marg. Map 1 B5.
The Carpet Cellar Tel (011) 2467 0112. Gulab Singh
1, Anand Lok, August Kranti Tel (011) 6596 9600.
Johri Mal
Marg. Tel (011) 4164 1777. The Shop 320, Dariba Kalan,
10, Regal Building, The Neemrana Shop
Sansad Marg, Connaught 26–A, Khan Market. Chandni Chowk.
Jewellery Place. Map 1 C5. Map 5 B3. Map 2 E2.
Tel (011) 2334 0971. Tel (011) 4358 7183. Tel (011) 2327 1345.
Bharany’s
14, Sundar Nagar Tulsi Tibet House Steak House
Market. Map 6 D3. Santushti. Map 4 E4. Lodi Rd. Map 5 B5. Jor Bagh Mkt.
Tel (011) 2435 8528. Tel (011) 2687 0339. Tel (011) 2461 1515. Tel (011) 2461 1129.
ENTERTAINMENT IN DELHI
Delhi, as the capital of India, has a rich a culturally conservative city, jazz, theatre
and varied cultural life, mainly because and rock concerts are frequent, and there
the government has, over the last 50 years are several good bars and night clubs.
or more, consciously promoted a revival The city’s cultural calendar livens up
of traditional art forms. As a result, dancers, between October and March when the
musicians and folk artistes from all over India season is in full swing. The number of events
deem it an honour to perform here before multiply as all major festivals of music, dance,
discerning audiences. Although Delhi is still theatre and cinema are held at this time.
and richness of classical Films

dance and music. Delhi plays host to an
Performances by the best international film festival
exponents of the major which is held in January
dance styles of Bharata of every even year at the Siri
Natyam, Kathak, Odissi Fort complex. Tickets can be
and Kathakali take place obtained from the box office.
in the high season. The same Other film festivals, organized
is true of concerts of by the Directorate of Film
Hindustani and Carnatic Festivals, are held here as
music, the two major streams well. These are mainly regional
of classical music. During Indian cinema and foreign films
the season, shows are held that are not usually screened on
mainly at Siri Fort Auditorium the commercial circuit.
and Kamani Auditorium. Documentary films, presenting
Triveni Kala Sangam and the the works of up-and-coming
India Habitat Centre have filmmakers, are screened at
performances all the year the India International Centre,
round. The state-run Indian Max Mueller Bhavan and the
View of the India International Centre, Council for Cultural Relations British Council. Many foreign
New Delhi also organizes shows cultural centres, like the
at Azad Bhavan and Alliance Française and
Entertainment Guides the FICCI auditorium. the French Cultural Centre
and Tickets Colourful folk dances from also have regular film shows.
All newspapers list the all over India can be seen Popular Indian and foreign
day’s entertainment on their during the annual Trade Fair films are screened at the many
engagements page. Other at Pragati Maidan (see p89). cinema halls dotted all over
useful sources of information the city. Among the better-
on events, restaurants, sports equipped halls are 3C’s, PVR
and related activities are the Theatre Saket, PVR Priya, PVR Plaza
weekly Delhi Diary, the online The main theatre repertory and DT Cinemas. All daily
Time Out Delhi and the monthly company is the National
magazine First City. School of Drama which
At several venues in the presents plays in its own
city, such as the India Inter- open air auditorium and
national Centre (see Lectures at Kamani Auditorium nearby.
and Discussions), entry is In 1999, the company began
free. At others, such as the a National Theatre Festival,
Indian Council for Cultural to be held every May–Jun.
Relations, it is by invitation. Its performances are in Hindi
Tickets for selected music and Urdu and include works
festivals and theatre, however, by contemporary Indian and
are advertised and sold at Western playwrights.
certain bookshops or at the Several amateur theatre
box office. A useful website groups perform in both
is www.delhievents.com. Hindi and English, contributing
to a hectic theatre season in
the winter. The main venues
Music and Dance are Shri Ram Centre, Kamani,
Delhi is a fantastic place and the India Habitat Centre Shubha Mudgal, a well-known
to experience the full range (see Music and Dance). classical singer
E N T E R TA I N M E N T I N D E L H I 125
newspapers carry details of Delhi. The National Gallery

film shows. The tickets should of Modern Art (see p75)
be bought well in advance and the National Museum
as cinema, both Indian and (see pp76–9) both regularly
foreign, continues to be a major organize major exhibitions.
form of popular entertainment.
Lectures and Discussions

Exhibitions Lectures, discussions and
The number of art galleries seminars covering a wide
continues to grow in response range of subjects, such as
to an increased interest in international and current Lavish interiors of Rick’s bar at the
contemporary Indian art. affairs, wildlife and ecology, Taj Mahal Hotel
Regular exhibitions present mountaineering and Indian
the work of painters, sculptors culture are regularly held at Nightlife
and photographers. Certain the India International Delhi’s nightlife is particularly
well known galleries such Centre. These are announced lively. The five-star hotels house
as Art Heritage and others in the daily newspapers most of the better bars and
located at Triveni Kala Sangam, and are open to all. Other clubs, such as Club Bar, Olive
India Habitat Centre, India venues where such Bar & Restaurant, Rick’s,
International Centre and programmes are held are Agni and Aura. These are
Max Mueller Bhavan are in the Indira Gandhi National popular with the young
the city centre. Others, Centre for the Arts (IGNCA), crowd, especially on Saturday
such as Vadehra Art British Council and the India nights. Q’Ba offers live music
Gallery, are in South Habitat Centre. on weekends.
DIRECTORY
Music and Dance Films Exhibitions Nightlife
Indian Council for 3C’s Art Heritage Agni
Cultural Relations 15, Feroze Gandhi Marg, Triveni Kala Sangam. The Park, Sansad Marg.
Azad Bhavan, IP Estate. Lajpat Nagar III. Map 2 D5. Map 1 C5.
Map 1 C4. Tel (011) 2984 7846. Tel (011) 2371 9470. Tel (011) 2374 3000.
Tel (011) 2337 9309.
British Council National Gallery Aura
India Habitat Centre 17, Kasturba Gandhi of Modern Art Claridge’s Hotel.
Lodi Rd. Map 5 B5. Marg. Map 1 C5. Jaipur House, Dr Zakir Map 5 A3.
Tel (011) 2468 2001. Tel (011) 2371 0111. Hussain Marg, India Gate. Tel (011) 3955 5082.
Kamani Auditorium Map 5 C2. Club Bar
DT Cinemas
Copernicus Marg. Tel (011) 2338 4640. The Oberoi, Dr Zakir
Saket & Vasant Kunj.
Map 2 D5. Tel (011) 2614 0000. National Museum Hussain Marg.
Tel (011) 4350 3351. Janpath. Map 6 D4.
French Cultural Tel (011) 2436 3030.
Pragati Maidan Map 5 A2.
Centre
Map 6 D1. Tel (011) 2379 2775. Olive Bar &
2, Aurangzeb Rd.
Tel (011) 2337 1540. Restaurant
Map 5 A3. Vadehra Art Gallery
One Style Mile, Haveli 6,
Siri Fort Auditorium Tel (011) 3041 0000. D-178, Okhla Phase 1.
Kalka Das Marg, Mehrauli.
Asian Village Complex. Tel (011) 6547 4005.
Max Mueller Bhavan Tel (011) 2957 4444.
Tel (011) 2649 3370.
3, Kasturba Gandhi Marg. Lectures and Q’Ba
Triveni Kala Sangam Map 2 D5.
205, Tansen Marg.
Discussions E-42 & E-43, Inner Circle,
Tel (011) 2347 1100. Connaught Place.
Map 2 D5. India International
PVR Plaza Map 1 C4.
Tel (011) 2371 8833. Centre
H Block, Connaught Place. Tel (011) 4517 3333.
40, Lodi Estate,
Theatre Map 1 C4.
Max Mueller Marg. Rick’s
Tel (011) 4760 4200. Taj Mahal Hotel.
National School Map 5 A4.
Map 5 B3.
of Drama PVR Priya Tel (011) 2461 9431.
Tel (011) 2302 6162.
Bahawalpur House. 61, Community Centre,
Indira Gandhi
Map 2 E5. Basant Lok, Vasant Vihar.
National Centre
Tel (011) 2338 9402. Tel (011) 4760 4300.
for the Arts
Shri Ram Centre PVR Saket 1, CV Mess, Janpath.
Mandi House. Map 2 D5. Community Centre, Saket. Map 5 A4.
Tel (011) 2371 4307. Tel (011) 4710 4000. Tel (011) 2338 3895.
DELHI STREET FINDER

Delhi is a confusing city to get around. the names have changed or are known
New Delhi and the adjoining Nizamuddin by more than one name. Connaught Place
to Purana Qila area are fairly well marked out, is officially known as Rajiv Gandhi Chowk,
whereas Old Delhi is a maze of narrow lanes Connaught Circus is Indira Gandhi Chowk
(galis) and bylanes. The city has extended far and Sansad Marg is also known as Parliament
beyond the main city centre, in keeping with Street. The Street Finder covers the city
its burgeoning population, and the vast com- centre area and lists the major sights, hotels,
plexes of residential housing add to the restaurants, shops and entertainment venues.
confusion of getting around. Navigating the The Further Afield map is on page 103
city’s roads and streets (margs) is challenging. and covers the area north, west and
Signposts are often hard to find and most of south of the city centre.
0 kilometres 1
0 miles 1
N E TA
Q UT A B
MAH AT M A
JI S
U
ROAD
BH
AS H M A R G
G A N D H I M AR G
Old Delhi
Shops at the entrance to the Dargah
at Nizamuddin PA
NC
HK
UI A
N
RD
M AT H U R A
T
EN
AD
C
ES
RO
ON CR
GE
R A J PAT H
RID
New Delhi
GD
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R
PE
IN
Yam
UP
L
ZA
IL
W
KI
G
u
AR
na
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er
PA
SS
AI
AR Purana Qila
H
RD
PA T
SA
MG
TI
ROAD
AN
LO D I
RI
NG
SH
RO
AD
Key
Major sight Police station
Place of interest Temple
Other buildings Gurudwara
Railway station Church
Metro station Mosque
Bus terminus Tomb Scale of maps 1-6
Tourist information Railway line 0 metres 500
Hospital 0 yards 500
View of Rajpath from Vijay Chowk, New Delhi

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Tourist Home
M AT H U
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RK
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RO
ICA
RA
AD
Market L
PA
GE
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BR
RO
AD
ROAD
M A
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MU
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H A
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SUNDAR
WALA BURJ
A
The
Oberoi
LAL
RAJIV GANDHI
MARG
GUID ES SMRITI VAN
& MILLENNIUM
THE CHARBAGH
SCO U T INDRAPRASTHA
S
AT
BAH
AR PARK
BH BU HALIMA’S
G A
Subz Burj Humayun's

GARDEN
Tomb
A DU R SH AS
The Barber’s Nila Gumbad

Mirza Afsarwala Tomb
N D
Ghalib's Mosque and

Tomb Isa Khan's Tomb I SARAI ROAD
A B K
Tomb AR
Hazrat Nizamuddin
H I
Aulia Dargah Afsar Wala

M
Masjid
AT
A RG HAR SHA LANE

D I M
ROAD
ROA
RL
H UIZAH
WA Hazrat
MU
L
NA
N I Z A MU D D IN M Nizamuddin
T
M A
RI
R AROAD
NI ZAMUD D I N EAS T
HARSHA
ISBT Sarai
WES T
ROAD
Kale Khan
R G
RA
O VER H
LY BA F IM
RA
PUL B
K
LA H A
H
SARAI
RA
A
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PU
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D LL
ra A
KALE KHAN
AD
JANGPURA
R
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O
BI
RB
RO
A
AL
A
Baha'i
D
RO
D House of
AD
Agra Worship
Jangpura
134 DELHI STREET FINDER
Street Finder Index

A C F Indira Gandhi Sports
Complex 2 F4
Afsar Wala Masjid 6 D5 Canadian High Faiz Road 1 A2
Indraprastha Hotel 5 A1
Ajmeri Gate 1 C3 Commission 3 C5 Fatehpuri Masjid 1 C1
Indraprastha Marg 2 F5
Ajmeri Gate Road 2 D2 Canning Lane 5 A1 Feroze Shah Kotla 2 F4
Inner Circle
Akbar Road 4 F3 Canning Road 5 B1 Feroze Shah Kotla
(Rajiv Chowk) 1 C4
continues 5 B2 Cathedral Church of the Cricket Ground 2 F4
Intercontinental Hotel 2 D5
American Embassy 3 C4 Redemption 4 E1 Fire Brigade Lane 2 D4
Irish Embassy 4 F5
Amrita Shergill Lane 5 A4 Cemetery (Prithviraj Ferozeshah Road 5 A1
Isa Khan’s Tomb 6 D4
Amrita Shergill Marg 5 A4 Road) 5 B3 First Avenue 5 A5
ISBT Sarai Kale Khan 6 F5
Ansari Road 2 F3 Central Golf Link Road 5 B4 Fourth Avenue 5 B5
Italian Embassy 3 C5
Appu Ghar 6 D1 Central Ridge Reserved French Embassy 3 C4
Arab ki Sarai Road 6 E5 Forest 3 A2
Arakshan Road 1 B3 Central Secretariat 4 E2 J
Aram Bagh Road 1 A3 Centre Point 1 C5 G Jahangir Road 2 D4
Archaeological Museum 2 F2 Chamelian Road 1 A1 Jai Prakash Narain
Archaeological Survey Chanakyapuri 3 C4 Gali Halwai Wali 1 B3
Hospital 2 E4
of India 5 A2 Chanakyapuri Railway Gali Safru 2 D3
Jai Singh Marg 1 B5
Archbishop Makarios Station 3 A5 Gandharva
Jain Mandir Marg 1 B4
Marg 5 C3 Chandni Chowk 2 D2 Mahavidyalaya 2 E5
Jain Temple 2 E1
Arya Nagar Road 1 B3 Chandni Chowk Road 2 D1 Gandhi Memorial
Jami Masjid 2 E2
Arya Samaj Road 2 D3 Chandragupta Marg 3 C5 Museum 2 F4
Jangpura 6 D5
Arya Samaj Temple 1 A4 Chawri Bazaar 2 D2 Gandhi Peace
Janpath 1 C5
Arya School Lane 1 B5 Chel Puri 2 D2 Foundation 2 E5
continues 5 A1
Asaf Ali Road 2 E3 Chelmsford Road 1 C4 Gandhi Smriti 4 F3
Jantar Mantar 1 C5
Ashok Hotel 4 D4 Chhatta Chowk 2 E1 Gauri Shankar Temple 2 E1
Japanese Embassy 4 D5
Ashok Road 1 B5 Children’s Park 5 B2 Gautam Road 1 A1
Jaswant Singh Road 5 B1
continues 5 A1 Chitragupta Road 1 B3 German Embassy 3 C5
Ghata Masjid Road 2 F3 Jawaharlal Nehru Marg 2 D3
Ashoka Pillar 2 F4 Church Mission Marg 1 C1 Jawaharlal Nehru
Australian Embassy 4 D4 Church Road 4 E1 Gole Dak Khana 1 A5
Gole Market 1 A4 Stadium 5 C5
Austrian Embassy 3C4 Churi Wali Gali 2 D2 Jawaharlal Nehru
Aurangzeb Road 4 F4 Claridges Hotel 5 A3 Golf Course 4 F5
Golf Links 5 B4 Stadium Marg 5 C5
continues 5 A4 College Lane 2 E5 Jhandewalan Road 1 B2
Govind Ballabh Pant
Aurobindo Marg 4 F5 Connaught Circus Jheel Park 3 A5
Hospital 2 E4
(Indira Chowk) 1 C5 Jor Bagh Colony Road 5 A5
Guru Nanak Eye
Connaught Lane 1 C5
B Connaught Place 1 C4
Hospital 2 E4 Jor Bagh Road 5 A5
Gurudwara Rakabganj Judah Hymn Hall 5 B3
Baba Kharak Singh Marg 1 B5 Copernicus Lane 5 B1 Jukaso Inn 6 D3
Road 4 E1
Babar Road 2 D5 Copernicus Marg 5 C1
continues 4 F1
Bahadurgarh Road 1 B1 Crafts Museum 6 D2
Bahadur Shah Cross Road 2 3 C4
Gymkhana Club 4 E4 K
Zafar Marg 2 E4 Cross Road 3 3 C4 Kalan Masjid 2 D3
Bal Bhavan 2 E4 Cross Road 4 3 C4 H Kali Bari Lane 1 A5
Balli Maran 2 D1 Kali Bari Road 1 A5
Hailey Lane 2 D5
Balmiki Temple 1 A3
Bangla Sahib Gurudwara 1 B5
D Hailey Road 2 D5 Kali Das Road 2 F3
Hamilton Road 2 D1 Kamal Ataturk Marg 4 E4
Bangla Sahib Lane 1 B5 Dalhousie Road 4 E2 Kamani Auditorium 2 D5
Hamsadhwani Theatre 6 D1
Bangla Sahib Road 1 B4 continues 4 F2 Kamaraj Lane 4 F3
Hans Bhavan 2 F5
Bara Gumbad 5 A4 Dandi March Statue 4 D2 Hans Plaza 2 D5 Kamaraj Road 4 F2
Bara Hindu Rao Road 1 B1 Dariba Kalan Road 2 E1 Hanuman Road 1 B5 Kasturba Gandhi Marg 1 C5
Barakhamba Lane 2 D5 Darbari Lal Marg 1 B3 Harsha Lane 6 E5 continues 5 B1
Barakhamba Road 2 D5 Dayanand Road 2 F3 Harsha Road 6 E5 Kasturba Hospital 2 E2
Bardoloi Marg 4 D3 Deen Dayal Upadhyaya Hazrat Nizamuddin Kasturba Hospital Marg 2 E2
Baroda House 5 B1 Marg 2 D4 Aulia Dargah 6 D5 Katra Bariyan 1 C1
Basant Road 1 B4 Delhi Flying Club 4 F5 HC Sen Road 2 D1 Kautilya Marg 4 D3
Bazaar Chitli Qabar 2 E3 Delhi Gate 2 E3 Hindi Park 2 F3 Kedar Nath Lane 2 F3
Bengali Market 2 D5 Delhi Golf Club 2 E3 Hoshiar Singh Marg 1 B1 Khair-ul-Manazil 5 C2
Benito Juarez Marg 3 A5 Delhi Golf Course 5 C4 Host Inn 1 C4 Khajoori Marg 1 A2
Beriwari Gali 2 D3 Delhi High Court 5 C2 Hotel Broadway 2 E3 Khan Market 5 B3
Bhagwan Das Road 5 C1 Delhi Main Railway Hotel Diplomat 4 D3 Khari Baoli Road 1 C1
Bhagwan Mahavir Station 2 D1 Hotel Janpath 5 A1 Khas Mahal 2 F1
Vanasthali 3 B3 Delhi Riding Club 4 E4 Hotel Marina 1 C4 Khuni Darwaza 2 E4
Bhai Vir Singh Lane 1 A5 Desh Bandhu Gupta Humayun Road 5 B3 Kotla Marg 2 E4
Bhai Vir Singh Marg 1 A5 Road 1 B3 Humayun’s Tomb 6 E4 Krishi Bhavan 4 F2
Bhairon Marg 6 D2 continues 1 A2 Hyderabad House 5 B1 Krishna Menon Lane 4 F3
Bharat Scouts & Dharam Marg 3 C3 Krishna Menon Marg 4 F3
Guides Marg 6 D4 Diwan-i-Aam 2 F1 Kushak Road 4 E3
Bharatram Road 2 F3 Diwan-i-Khas 2 F1
I
Bhavbhuti Marg 1 C3 Dr Ambedkar Stadium 2 F4
Bhisham Pitamah Marg 5 B5 Dr Rajendra Prasad Lane 5 A1
Idgah Road
Imperial Hotel
1 B2
1 C5
L
Bird Hospital 2 E2 Dr Rajendra Prasad Road 5 A1 India Gate 5 B2 Lady Hardinge Hospital 1 B4
Boating Lake 6 D2 Dr Zakir Hussain Marg 5 C3 India Habitat Centre 5 B5 Lahori Gate 1 C1
BR Mehta Lane 5 B1 Dupleix Road 4 F3 India International Centre 5 A4 Lajpat Rai Market 2 E1
Brassey Avenue 4 E2 Indian Airlines Office 4 F1 Lakshmi Narayan
Bridge of Boats Indian Express Office 2 F4 Temple (Birla Mandir) 1 A4
(Nov–June) 6 E1 Lal Bahadur Shastri
British High Commission 4 D4
E Indira Chowk
Indira Gandhi National
1 C4
Marg 6 D5
Buddha Jayanti Park 3 B2 Electric Crematorium 2 F1 Centre for Arts 5 A1 Lal Bahadur Shastri Smriti 5 A2
Bulgarian Embassy 3 C4 Esplanade Road 2 E2 Indira Gandhi Smriti 4 F4 Lal Kuan Bazaar 1 C2
DELHI STREET FINDER 135
Lal Kuan Bazaar Road 1 C2 Naya Bans Gali 1 C1 Ramakrishna Mission 1 B3 Supreme Court 5 C1
Lambi Gali 1 C2 Naya Bazaar 1 C1 Ramdwara Road 1 B4 Swedish Embassy 3 C4
La Sagrita Tourist Home 6 D3 Nyaya Marg 3 C5 Ramlila Grounds 2 D3
Le Meridien 5 A1 Nehru Memorial Museum Rang Mahal 2 F1
Link Road 1 A3 and Library 4 E3 Rani Jhansi Road 1 A2
T
Lodi Estate 5 B4 Rashtrapati Bhavan 4 E2 Tagore Road 2 D3
Nehru Park 4 D5
Lodi Gardens 5 A4
Nehru Planetarium 4 E3 Red Cross Road 4 F1 Taj Mahal Hotel 5 B3
Lodi Road 5 A5
Netaji Subhash Marg 2 E2 Red Cross Society 4 F1 Taj Palace Hotel 3 A4
continues 5 C4
Lok Sabha Marg 4 F1 New Delhi 4 E2 Red Fort 2 E2 Talkatora Road 4 E1
New Delhi Railway Reserve Bank of India 4 F1 Talkatora Gardens 4 D1
Station 1 C3 Ring Road 2 E1 Tansen Marg 2 D5
continues 6 E2 Teen Murti Lane 4 E4
M New Rohtak Road 1 A2
Russian Embassy 3 C4 Teen Murti Marg 4 E3
Nirman Bhavan 5 A2
Madrasa of Ghazi-ud- The Ambassador 5 B3
Nirulas 1 C4
din Khan 1 C3
Mahadev Road 4 F1
Niti Marg 4 D4 S The Connaught 1 B4
continues 4 D5 The Oberoi 6D4
Maharaja Aggarsain Road 1 B1 Sacred Heart Cathedral 1 A5
Nizamuddin Bridge 6 F3 The Park 1 B5
Maharaja Ranjeet Singh Sadar Bazaar 1 B1
Nizamuddin East 6 E5 Thyagaraja Marg 4 E2
Marg 2 D4 Sadar Bazaar Railway
Maharani Guest House 6 D3 Tibet House 5 B5
Nizamuddin Railway Station 1 C1
Maharishi Balmiki Marg 1 A1 Tilak Bridge Railway
Station 6 E5 Sadar Thana Marg 1 B2
Maharishi Raman Marg 5 B4 Station 2 E5
Nizamuddin West 6 D5 Safdar Hashmi Marg 2 E5
Mahatma Gandhi Marg 2 F2 Tilak Marg 5 C1
North Avenue 4 E1 Safdarjung Aerodrome 4 E5
continues 3 A5 Times of India Office 2 F4
continues 6 E4 North Block 4 E2 Safdarjung Lane 4 F4
Todarmal Lane 2 D5
Mahatma Gandhi Park 2 D1 Safdarjung Road 4 F4
Todarmal Road 2 E5
Mahatma Jyoti Rao P Safdarjung’s Tomb
Salimgarh Fort
4 F5
2 F1
Tolstoy Marg 1 C5
Phule Road 5 C1
Town Hall 2 D1
Mahawat Khan Road 2 E5 Padam Singh Marg 2 F2 Samata Sthal 2 F3
Main Bazaar Road 1 B3 Triveni Kala Sangam 2 D5
Paharganj 1 B3 San Martin Road 3 B5
Malcha Mahal 3 C2 Tughlaq Crescent 4 F4
Palika Bazaar 1 C5 Sansad Marg 4 F1
Malcha Marg 3 C3 Tughlaq Road 4 F4
Panchkuian Road 1 B4 Santushti Complex 4 E4
Mandi House 2 E5 Turkman Bazaar Road 2 D3
Panchsheel Marg 3 C4 Sardar Patel Marg 3 C3
Mandir Marg 1 A1 Turkman Gate 2 D3
continues 4 D4 Sardar Patel Railway
Mandir Marg 1 A4 Turkman Road 2 D4
Pandara Market 5 B2 Station 3 A4
Mansingh Road 5 B2
Masjid Fakrula Beg Gali 1 C2 Pandara Park 5 C3 Satya Marg 3 C5
Mata Sundari Lane 2 E4 Pandara Road 5 B3 continues 4 D5 U
Mata Sundari Road 2 D4 Scindia Road 1 A4
Pandit Pant Marg 4 E1 Udyog Bhavan 4 F2
Mathura Road 5 C1 Second Avenue 5 A5
Parliament House 4 F1 Ugrasen’s Baoli 2 D5
continues 6 D3 Service Road 3 C5
Parliament Street 1 B5 Upper Ridge Road 3 A3
Matka Pir 6 D2 Shah Burj 2 F1
Maulana Azad Patiala House 5 C1 Urdu Ghar Marg 2 E4
Shah Jahan Road 5 B3
Medical College 2 E4 Peshwa Road 1 A4
Shaheed Bhagat Singh
Polo Ground 4 E5
Maulana Azad Road
Maulana Azad’s Tomb
5 A2
2 E2 Pragati Maidan 6 D1
Marg 1 B4 V
Shahi Idgah 1 A2
Max Mueller Marg 5 B4 President’s Estate 4 D2 Shakti Sthal 2 F3 Vakil Lane 2 D5
Medical Association Road 2 F3 Prince Polonia 1 B3 Vallabhacharya Marg 1 A3
Shakuntalam Theatre 6 D1
Meena Bazaar 2 E2 Prithviraj Lane 5 B3 Vande Mataram Marg 3 B1
Shankar Marg 1 B2
Middle Circle 1 C4 Vardman Marg 5 B5
Prithviraj Road 5 A4 Shanti Path 3 C5
Minto Road 2 D3
PTI (Press Trust of India) 4 F1 continues 4 D4 Vayu Bhavan 4 F2
Mirdard Marg 2 E4
Purana Qila 6 D2 Shanti Vana 2 F2 Vigyan Bhavan 5 A2
Mirza Ghalib’s Tomb 6 D4
More Sarai Road 2 D1 Purana Qila Road 5 C2 Shanti Vana Marg 2 E2 Vijay Chowk 4 F2
Moti Masjid 2 F1 Shastri Bhavan 5 A2 Vijay Ghat 2 F1
Motia Khan Park 1 A2 Shershah Road 5 C2 Vikas Marg 2 F4
Motilal Nehru Marg 5 A3
Q Shraddhanand Marg 1 C2 Vinay Marg 4 D5
Motilal Nehru Place 5 A3 Qutab Road 1 C2 Shringar Theatre 6 D1 Vishwa Yuvak Kendra 4 D3
Mughal Gardens 4 D2 Shroff Eye Hospital 2 F3 Vivekanand Road 1 C4
Muhammad Shah Shyama Prasad
Lodi’s Tomb 5 A5 R
Mumtaz Mahal 2 F2
Mukherji Marg 1 C1 W
Rabindra Bhavan 2 D5 Sikandar Lodi’s Tomb 5 A4
Murli Marg 6 E5
Race Course 4 E4 Sikandra Road 2 E5 War Memorial Arch 5 B2
Race Course Road 4 E4 Simon Bolivar Marg 3 B3 Welcomgroup Maurya
N Rafi Ahmed Kidwai Sisganj Gurudwara 2 D2 Sheraton 3 B4
Nai Sarak 2 D2 Sitaram Bazaar 2 D3 Willingdon Crescent 4 D1
Marg 4 F2
Nalwa Road 6 D5 Sitaram Bazaar Road 2 D2 continues 4 D3
Rahim Khan Road 6 E5
National Archives 5 A2 Smriti Vatika 3 B5 Windsor Place 5 A1
Rail Bhavan 4 F2
National Gallery of South Avenue 4 E3
Raisina Road 4 F1
Modern Art 5 C2
National Museum 5 A2 continues 5 A1
South Block
South End Lane
4 E2
5 A4
Y
National Rail Museum 3 C5 Rajaji Marg 4 E3 Yamuna River 6 F2
Sri Ram Centre 2 E5
National Rose Garden 3 C5 Rajdoot Marg 3 C3 Yashwant Place 4 D5
State Emporia Complex 1 B5
NSD (National School Rajghat 2 F3 Yorks 1 C4
Subz Burj 6 D4
of Drama) 2 E5 Rajguru Marg 1 B3 Subramaniam Bharti YMCA Tourist Hostel 1 B5
National Science Centre 6 D2 Rajpath 5 A2
National Stadium 5 C2 Marg 5 B3 YWCA 1 B5
Rajya Sabha Marg 4 F1 Sultan Razia’s Tomb 2 D3 YWCA Guest House 1 B5
National Zoological Park 6 D3
Natural History Museum 2 D5 Ram Manohar Lohia Sundar Nagar Market 6 D3
Hospital 1 A5 Sundar Nursery 6 D4
Naubat Khana
Nawab Road
2 E2
1 B1 Ramakrishna Ashram Sunehri Bagh Road 4 F3
Z
Naya Bans Bazaar 1 C1 Marg 1 A4 Sunehri Masjid 2 D1 Zinat-ul-Masjid 2 F3
BEYOND DELHI
AREA BY AREA
Beyond Delhi at a Glance 138–139

North of Delhi 140–149
Agra and Around 150–181
Jaipur and Environs 182–229
138 BEYOND DELHI AREA BY AREA
Beyond Delhi at a Glance

The region surrounding Delhi is bounded by
the snow-capped Himalayas in the north
and the ravines of the River Chambal in the
south. The rich alluvial plains of the Ganges
and Yamuna lie at its heart, and to the west
are the Aravalli Range and Thar Desert. The
Rajputs and Mughals enriched the area with
architectural gems of which the finest are in
and around Agra and Jaipur. Mighty fortresses,
luxurious palaces, mosques, tombs and temples Alwar (see pp210–11), a former princely
are what draw tourists to the Delhi, Agra and state, is dominated by a large hilltop fort,
at the base of which lie elegant palaces,
Jaipur region. Away from the cities are wildlife cenotaphs and gardens. Alwar is also a
sanctuaries, and to the north are rivers, ideal convenient base to explore forgotten
for white-water rafting and adventure sports. forts and cities in and around the Sariska
National Park.
Hisar
Ajmer (see pp222–3) is best Sikar

Alwar
known for the shrine of the Sufi
saint Khwaja Moinuddin Chishti
and the ancient and stately Adhai
Din ka Jhopra. The pilgrim city of
Pushkar, where the annual camel
fair is held, is a short distance away. Jaipur
JAIPUR AND
Ajmer ENVIRONS
(See pp182–229)
0 kilometres 100
50
Tonk
0 miles
Jaipur (see pp186–203),

was built by Sawai Jai
Singh II in the early
1700s. In 1949 it became
the capital of Rajasthan.
A popular tourist destination,
it is visited for its historic
palaces, observatory,
hilltop forts, palace-hotels
and tempting markets.
Panoramic view of the city from Nahargarh Fort, Jaipur
B E YO N D D E L H I AT A G L A N C E 139
Haridwar (see p148),

one of North India’s
holiest cities, stands
on the banks of the
Ganges as it descends
to the plains. The
Kumbh Mela is held
here every 12 years.
Dehra Dun
Haridwar
Roorkee
Panipat
NORTH OF
DELHI
(See pp140–49) Roorkee (see p147), a small town on the way to
Haridwar, lies in the heart of a rich horticultural
belt. Its famous Engineering College, established
DELHI
in 1847, is housed in an elegant colonial building.
Mathura
Agra
Gwalior Agra (see pp154–63), the imperial Mughal capital

during the 16th and 17th centuries, is best known
for the Taj Mahal, built by Shah Jahan for his favourite
AGRA AND AROUND wife, Mumtaz Mahal. Other Mughal monuments can
(See pp150–81) be seen within and outside the city.
Jhansi
Orchha
Orchha (see pp180–81),

the early capital of
the Bundela kings, is
picturesquely situated
on the banks of the
Betwa. Its temples,
palaces and cenotaphs
are breathtaking.
NORTH OF DELHI
Lying between the Ganges and Yamuna rivers, this agriculturally
prosperous region is held to be the cradle of Indian civilization.
Its historical and mythological past extends from the ancient brick
cities of the Indus Valley and the early Aryan settlements to the
later Muslim and European forts and cities. Each culture has
enriched the region and contributed to its remarkable diversity.
This vast plain, from about the second To most Indians, however, this is the sacred
millennium on, has remained one of territory of the Mahabharata (see p145), where
India’s most densely populated areas. gods and epic heroes fought a legendary
As time went on, ancient fortified city battle at Kurukshetra and where Krishna
states developed into medieval walled (see pp166–7) expounded the famous
towns which contained prosperous Bhagavad Gita. The development of
agricultural lands and flourishing markets. ideas that led to the later compilation
Many of these are today important of the Vedas and Upanishads, the
industrial centres. Since the area has had bedrock of Hindu philosophy and
such a diverse history, its architectural ethics, are believed to have taken
remains are an eclectic mixture of styles place here as well. Panipat, the site
so that ancient brick structures, Mughal of three decisive battles that changed
monuments and colonial churches rub the history of North India, lies close by.
shoulders with modern factories. To the northeast and northwest lie the
To the north are the pilgrim towns of now forgotten towns of Narnaul, Hansi and
Haridwar and Rishikesh, where the Ganges, Sardhana, associated with the medieval
India’s most holy river, enters the plains. Tughlaq and Sur dynasties, and European
With the splendid backdrop of the Shivalik freebooters and nabobs such as Skinner,
Hills, this area, rich in flora and fauna, offers Reinhardt and his wife, Begum Samroo.
exciting places for adventure sports such Meerut, the epicentre of the Indian Mutiny,
as white-water rafting. is now a busy market and trading centre.
Roadside stalls selling religious paraphernalia, a common sight outside temples

Crowds gather for a ritual bath in the Ganges, Haridwar
Exploring North of Delhi

Outside of Delhi, the landscape changes dramatically. The
way to Haridwar, at the foothills of the Himalayas, is lined
with mango and litchi orchards. The canal network around
Roorkee sustains an agriculturally prosperous rural region.
On the other hand, the busy Grand Trunk Road that
leads beyond Panipat and Kurukshetra all the way to the
Punjab, has always been an important artery of trade and
commerce. Rolling fields of paddy and wheat are dotted
with electricity pylons that service this important industrial
belt. Yet the odd kos minar (milestone pillar) and medieval
St Andrew’s Church at Roorkee
fort recall another age when this was the scene of
important battles and the road to the north. Amritsar
Ambala
Sahabad
Guhla
Pehowa KURUKSHETRA
Nilu Kheri
Kaithal
Ratiya Tohana Pundri
Ujhana Karnal
Nasang
Gharaunda
Babura Narwana Asandh
Sirsa Un
Fatehabad Uklana
Munak
Nikuran Kairana
Agroha Safidon
Barwala PANIPAT
Jind
Israna
HARYANA Chharprauli
Hissar Gohana
HANSI Julana
Sonipat
Bhatgaon
Maham Baghpat
Getting Around Kharkhauda
Rohtak
This area is well served by roads, including the famous
Bawana
Grand Trunk Road (now National Highway 1). There are Kalanaur
good tourist lay-bys with clean toilets and cafés along it. Bahadurgarh
The high-speed Shatabdi Express between New Delhi
Chuchakwas Jhajjar New Delhi
railway station and Dehra Dun, as well as the overnight
Mussoorie Express to Haridwar, are other ways to reach Najafgarh
Haridwar. The Kalka–New Delhi Shatabdi Express
Mahrauli
stops at Ambala from where a taxi can be taken to Khosla
Kurukshetra. Taxis and tourist buses also ply at regular Gurgaon
intervals between New Delhi and Haridwar, and New Mahendragarh Pataudi
Delhi and Chandigarh. Sohna
Rewari
Bawal Nuh
NARNAUL
Key Bhadas
Jaipur
Highway
Major road Firozpur
Minor road
Railroad
State border

NORTH OF DELHI 143
Grazing sheep tended by Gujjar tribesmen near Panipat
Dehra Dun
Brahmapuri Devaprayag
Yamunanagar
a RISHIKESH
un A LO HE
m NG T
G A N GES
Ya
Sarsawa Fatahpur
HARIDWAR
SAHARANPUR
Pathri
U T TA R A K H A N D
Rampur
Lansdowne
Gangoh ROORKEE
) Kotdwara
Deoband es
Jalalabad ng
Ga
(
Ganga
Bubana Najibabad
Kalan
Bohpa
Nagina
Muzaffarnagar
Jansath Bijnor
Dhampur
Burhana Jaspur
Khatauli
UTTAR PRADESH
Baraut SARDHANA Candpur Nurpur
Mawana
Binauli
MEERUT
Modinagar Garhmuktesar
Muradnagar
Moradabad
Hapur
Gan
Ghaziabad
Gulavthi Siyana
ga (
Dadri
Tranquil canal waters near Sardhana
G
an g
Sikandarabad
e
)
s
Faridabad Sights at a Glance

Bulandshahr
Ballabgarh Anupshahr 1 Narnaul
Khurja 2 Hansi
Yamun a
3 Panipat
Bareilly
Palwal 4 Kurukshetra
Aligarh 5 Meerut
6 Sardhana
7 Saharanpur
Hodal 8 Roorkee
9 Haridwar
Agra 0 Rishikesh
0 kilometres 50 Tour
0 miles 25 q Along the Ganges
1 Narnaul
Narnaul district. 132 km (82 miles) SW
of Delhi. Road map C3.
Believed to have been founded

by the Pandava Sahdev, the
town of Narnaul is historically
significant as the birthplace of
the great ruler Sher Shah Sur
(see p88) whose grandfather,
Ibrahim Shah Sur, is buried here
in a magnificent Afghan-style
mausoleum. The Jal Mahal
(“water palace”), situated in Qalandar Shah’s dargah at Panipat, built 700 years ago
what was once an artificial lake
built by Shah Quli Khan in 1591, 3 Panipat 4 Kurukshetra
is a Mughal-style structure; so Panipat district. 85 km (53 miles) N of Kurukshetra district.175 km (109 miles)
is the Birbal ka Chatta, with Delhi on NH1. Road map C2. _ Urs N of Delhi on NH1. Road map C1.
its projecting balconies and of Qalander Shah (Jan–Feb). _ Gita Jayanti (Nov–Dec).
pavilions. In the town’s old Krishna Museum: Tel (017) 4429 1288.
section are some magnificent, On the flat, dusty plains of Open 10am–5pm daily. & ^
but neglected, havelis with Panipat, three decisive battles
murals in the Shekhawati were fought that changed the Linked with 360 legendary
style (see p216). course of Indian history. The sites of the Mahabharata, this
Mughal empire (see pp56–7) strategic plain was ruled by
was established in 1526 after the Kuru tribe in the later Vedic
2 Hansi Babur defeated the Delhi period. The 18-day epic battle
Hisar district. 137 km (85 miles) NW
sultan, Ibrahim Lodi, and was between the Pandavas and
of Delhi. Road map C2. consolidated 30 years later when Kauravas was fought on this
his grandson Akbar triumphed “field of righteousness”. The town
This nondescript town is over Sher Shah’s general in 1556. of Kurukshetra is also the start
associated with two Finally, in 1761, the of a pilgrimage circuit of 128 km
soldiers of fortune. At the Marathas, the Mughal (80 miles) undertaken during the
end of the 18th century, emperor’s military arm, solar eclipse and at Gita Jayanti
the Irish adventurer, were routed by an Afghan in November or December,
George Thomas, invader, Ahmad Shah when lighted clay lamps are
repaired the city’s Abdali, paving the way for set afloat on the sacred waters
defensive wall, the British (see pp58–9). of the tanks during a ceremony
remodelled the ruined Today, Panipat is a busy called the deepdan.
fort and made it town well known The main bathing tanks are the
his headquarters. Memorial of the Third for its furnishing Brahmasar, with a small temple on
Some 30 years later, Battle of Panipat fabrics and carpets. an island, and the smaller, more
Colonel James Skinner The 700-year-old sacred Sannahit Sarovar, lined
(see p105) of Skinner’s Horse, built Sufi dargah of Qalandar Shah with ghats and temples. Hindus
a large mansion (now derelict) is situated here. On its outskirts believe that a dip here during
here where he spent his last are kos minars (milestones) the solar eclipse is very sacred
years. The town is scattered with indicating that Panipat was for it is when the twin planets,
monuments dating to the 12th part of the Grand Trunk Road the malefic Rahu and Ketu, try to
century, including the shrine (see p164). swallow the sun to spread terror
called Char Qutbs, a Sufi dargah in the world. However, the sun
of the Chishtiya order, and the defeats their machinations, so,
19th-century tomb of Begum after a holy dip, pilgrims donate
Skinner, one of Skinner’s 12 food equal to their body weight
Indian wives. as thanks-giving. The last solar
eclipse of the 20th century
Environs occurred in August 1999, and
Hissar, 26 km (16 miles) west of the first of the new millennium,
Hansi, was the favourite retreat was on 31 May 2003. The latest
of Feroze Shah Tughlaq (see p101). took place on 21 May 2012.
He built palaces and forts here, The Krishna Museum and
now in ruins. An oddity from Gita Research Centre has a large
that time is an edifice called collection that brings out the
the Jahaz, so named as it Sacred tank on the Sannahit Sarovar pervasiveness of the Krishna
resembles a ship. in Kurukshetra cult in Indian art.
NORTH OF DELHI 145
The Mahabharata
Considered an inexhaustible fund of knowledge and ideas, the Mahabharata
is about an eponymous battle between the Pandavas and Kauravas. Said to be
first narrated by a sage, Ved Vyas, the epic was written down only between the 6th
and 7th centuries BC. Eight times the length of the Iliad and Odyssey put together,
the subtle moral subtext of its legends and stories codifies notions of theology
and statecraft that inspired rulers down the ages.
The Bhagavad Gita, a later insertion of 700 stanzas, records the sermon that was
given by the divine charioteer, Lord Krishna, to the Pandava prince Arjuna on the epic
battlefield of Kurukshetra. It extols the virtues of performing one’s moral duty without
seeking reward, and condones the use of violence against injustice. Its philosophy of
righteous living and the importance of one’s dharma (duty, calling) continues to guide
the lives of millions of Indians. In the 1990s, a television serial on the Mahabharata
became so popular that life came to a virtual standstill when it was transmitted.
The battle is an allegory for Folk art often uses the epic as Krishna is seen as the divine
the war between right and a theme. This patachitra from charioteer who steers the mind
wrong. The epic’s didactic Eastern India is used as a visual (chariot) and five senses (the five
tone made it an authoritative aid by minstrels, while ganjifa horses that pull Arjuna’s chariot) to
manual on moral rules and playing cards similarly use follow the right path through life.
righteous conduct. Arjuna as the icon for a king.
The Battle of the Mahabharata at Kurukshetra

The kingdom of Hastinapur and Queen Draupadi were lost by the
five Pandavas when their evil cousins, the Kauravas, tricked them in
a game of dice. After a long exile, the Pandavas, though outnumbered
by the hundred Kauravas, were led by Krishna to victory in the Battle
of the Mahabharata.
Arjuna, the skilled archer, shoots the Lord Krishna gives the sermon of the Gita
eye of a fish reflected in water. This act to Arjuna on the battlefield of Kurukshetra.
won him the hand of Draupadi and As the charioteer of the Pandavas in the
the envy of the Kaurava princes. war, this god plays a crucial role in the epic.
come to India to seek their

fortunes in the mid-18th
century (see pp58–9).
Reinhardt deserted the
French army in 1750 and
organized a band of fierce,
well-trained mercenaries who
fought for various local chiefs.
Called “Sombre” or “Samroo”
for his swarthy complexion,
he settled in Sardhana on
land gifted by Najaf Khan, a
nobleman of Delhi. Reinhardt
was succeeded by his wife,
A cantonment house in Meerut Begum Samroo, a formidable
and wily lady who converted
5 Meerut with sprawling gardens along to Catholicism in 1781. She was
Meerut district. 72 km (44 miles) NE
its length. The cantonment’s known throughout the region
of Delhi on NH24. Road map D2. Neo-Classical St John’s Church as the only Roman Catholic
* 1,300,000. ( Mon. _ Nauchandi (1822), where British residents “queen” in India, as she led her
Mela (Mar). had gathered for refuge when husband’s troops until her death
the revolt broke out, was the in 1836. Her military skills,
An eminent commercial and scene of a bloody massacre matched by her piety and
administrative town, Meerut that fateful May day. Memorial philanthropy, made her popular
is better known as the place tablets with their names and with the locals, who still respect
where the sepoys first mutinied histories lie inside. The old Central her memory.
on 10 May 1857, igniting the Jail, associated with the worst Begum Samroo’s palace, the
Indian Mutiny (see pp58–9). excesses of the Mutiny and its grand Dilkusha Kothi, with its
Today, this bustling town swirls aftermath, is now converted impressive hallway, is situated
around architectural monuments into a public park. within a garden of almost 75
dating to the 11th and 12th acres (30 ha). It now houses a
centuries, such as the Jami Masjid charity school and orphanage.
(1019), Salar Masa-ud Ghazi’s 6 Sardhana The Cathedral nearby has a white
maqbara (1194), the tomb of Meerut district. 85 km (57 miles) NE
marble altar inlaid with semi-
Makhdum Shah Wilayat and of Delhi. Road map D2. _ Feast of precious stones and a Carrara
the maqbara of Shah Pir (1620). Our Lady of Graces (2nd Sun of Nov). marble monument to the Begum
Meerut’s colonial heritage is, & (to Cathedral). 8 sculpted by Tadolini of Rome.
however, preserved in its Now raised to the status of a
manicured cantonment to the Surrounded by a network basilica, this is still an important
north of the old city. This is one of canals, Sardhana has a centre for Catholics. Both the
of the country’s best-planned history inextricably linked palace and cathedral were built
cantonments with a broad, tree- with two flamboyant European between 1822 and 1834 in a
lined mall or main road and adventurers, Walter Reinhardt hybrid colonial style. The city
colonial bungalows (see p31) and George Thomas, who had is famous for its cloth industry.
The classical façade of Dilkusha Kothi at Sardhana

NORTH OF DELHI 147
7 Saharanpur
Saharanpur district.165 km (103 miles)
NE of Delhi on NH24. Road map D1.
* 700,000.
Saharanpur was founded

in 1340 during the reign of
Muhammad-bin-Tughlaq
(see p111). During the Mughal
period it was a popular summer
resort for nobles attracted by its
cool climate and plentiful game.
Many of the gardens that were
laid out over 200 years ago,
such as the Company Bagh Stone lion at the head of the aqueduct in Roorkee
in the centre of town, were
transformed into nurseries and 8 Roorkee institution. The pleasantly
botanical gardens in the 19th Haridwar district. 198 km (123 miles)
sited campus, located within
century, laying the foundation from Delhi on Delhi–Haridwar Rd. wooded areas, has several
for the town’s eventual growth Road map D1. _ Roorkee Flower acclaimed research institutions.
into an renowned horticultural Show (Mar). Some of the structures from the
centre. Today, Saharanpur is colonial period are exceptional,
one of North India’s largest An illustrious university and such as the Church of St John
producers of luscious mangoes, cantonment town, this was the Baptist (1852), with beautiful
while the sprawling Government originally a sleepy village on stained-glass windows. The
Botanical Gardens, on its the banks of the River Solani. town is also renowned for high
outskirts, is an important It gained significance when quality replicas of 18th- and
centre for research on the the Ganga Canal Workshop 19th-century engineering
medicinal properties of plants. was set up in 1843 as part and survey equipment.
Within the old city, highly of the massive Ganga Canal
skilled artisans craft items Irrigation Project. This trans-
of intricately carved furniture, formed the surrounding
ornamental screens, panels arid region into the highly
and trays, brass-inlaid with productive agricultural area of
traditional geometric and today. To the north of the town
floral designs. Some of the is a magnificent brick aqueduct,
finest examples of Saharanpur’s marked with two enormous
woodcraft can be seen in stone lions. It was considered
St Thomas’s Church. Also of a major engineering feat of the
interest are the old Jami Masjid 19th century, and carries the
(1530), Zabita Khan’s Mosque water of the Ganga Canal over
(1779) and the old Rohilla Fort the River Solani. The Thomson
in Nawabganj. Civil Engineering College,
now the Indian Institute of
Technology (IIT) Roorkee, was
established in 1847 and is the Interior of IIT Roorkee, one of India’s
country’s oldest technical premier engineering institutes
Mango
The mango, or aam, is the best-loved fruit
of the country. The Mughal emperor Babur
called it the “finest fruit of Hindostan.”
Hundreds of varieties, with exotic names
and pedigrees, are available from May to
July, before the monsoon arrives. While
ripe mango is savoured for its sweet pulp,
the raw fruit is also valued for its medicinal
properties, as well as its sharp tang, and is
made into pickles and chutneys eaten through
the year. The popular design motif of the paisley Langra mangoes
is derived from the shape of its fruit, and mango
leaves, considered auspicious, are used as buntings
Saharanpur’s Botanical Gardens, a at festive occasions.
repository of rare plants
idols. The most popular items

with the pilgrims, however,
are the jars and canisters sold
here. These are used for a vital
part of Hindu worship – to carry
back water from the Ganges
(Gangajal), which, the faithful
believe, remains ever fresh.
0 Rishikesh
Haridwar district. 238 km (148 miles)
N of Delhi. Road map: D1. * 102,000.
n GMVN Tourist Office, Muni-
ki-Reti (0135) 243 0799/0372.
_ International Yoga Week (Feb).
Pilgrims taking a dip in the holy Ganges at Haridwar
This twin city of Haridwar,
9 Haridwar of the river. The main ghat, situated at the confluence
Har-ki-Pauri, is named after a of the Chandrabhaga and
Haridwar district. 214 km (133 miles)
N of Delhi. Road map: D1. * 310, 500. supposed imprint of Vishnu’s the Ganges, is the start of the
n GMVN Tourist Office, Rahi Motel feet there. Hundreds attend the holy Char Dham pilgrim route
(0133) 422 6430/8686. @ Railway Rd. daily evening aarti at this ghat, to the Himalayas. Muni-ki-Reti
_ Kumbh Mela (every 12 years; when leaf boats are filled with (literally “sand of the sages”),
Feb–Mar); Ardh Kumbha Mela (every flowers, lit with lamps and set lies upstream from the Triveni
6 years; Feb–Mar); Haridwar Festival adrift on the Ganges. Further Ghat and is believed to be a
(Oct); Dusshera (Oct–Nov). south, a ropeway connects the blessed site since ancient sages
town to the Mansa Devi Temple meditated here. It has several
The Ganges, India’s holiest river, across the river with a panoramic famous ashrams, such as the
descends from the Himalayas to view of Haridwar. South of Sivanand, Purnanand and
the plains at Haridwar. This gives the town, the famous Gurukul Shanti Kunj ashrams, which
the town such a unique status Kangri University is renowned offer courses to those interested
that a pilgrimage to Haridwar is as a centre of Vedic knowledge, in India’s ancient knowledge
every devout Hindu’s dream. where students are taught systems. Maharishi Mahesh
Remarkably bare of ancient in the traditional oral style. Yogi, a cult figure during the
monuments, Haridwar’s most It also has a section displaying 1960s, when the Beatles
famous “sight” and a constant archaeological exhibits. were his followers, also
point of reference is the Ganges A good way to experience has an ashram here.
and its numerous bathing Haridwar’s ambience, which Rishikesh is a popular
ghats, tanks and temples. has changed little since ancient destination for adventure
These bustling sites of ritual times, is to stroll along the sports such as river rafting,
Hindu practices, performed riverside bazaar, lined with rappelling and kayaking
by pilgrims for the salvation stalls full of ritual paraphernalia (see p269). Eco-rafting and
of their ancestors and for their – small mounds of vermilion eco-camping are also preva-
own expiation, demonstrate powder, coconuts wrapped in lent here since the increase
their deep faith in the power red and gold cloth, and brass in environmental awareness.
Kumbh Mela
According to Hindu mythology, four drops of the immortal
nectar (amrit) wrestled by the gods from the demons, spilled over
Haridwar, Allahabad, Ujjain and Nasik. A Kumbh Mela is held once
every 12 years by rotation at these venues in Magh (Feb–Mar), when
the sun transits from Pisces to Aries, and when Jupiter is in the sign
of Aquarius (Kumbh in Hindu astrology). Hindus believe that they
can imbibe the immortal amrit and wash away their sins by bathing
in the Ganges at this propitious time. The mela is regarded as the largest
congregation of human beings in one place anywhere in the world,
when millions come for a holy dip, and to attend the seminars, discourses
and debates held in the camps of leading Hindu sages and theologians.
Haridwar’s last Kumbh Mela, held in 2010, attracted over ten million
people. A smaller celebration, called the Ardh Kumbh (half-Kumbh), Pilgrims thronging the ghats at the
is held every six years. Kumbh Mela
NORTH OF DELHI 149
q River Tour Along

the Ganges
From September to April, the Ganges, swollen by the
monsoon rains of the upper catchment areas, becomes
a torrent gushing over the rocky boulders as it hurtles
out of the mountains to the plains. This is the time when
a few stretches of rapids, where the flow is rough but safe,
become a popular circuit for enthusiasts of white-water
rafting (see p269). Only organized tours, run by certified
experts, are allowed. For the less adventurous, a driving tour
offers a panorama of this valley of the sages whose ashrams The Ganges flowing serenely through a
forested valley
nestle in the surrounding forests along the holy river.
2 Marine Drive
This campsite is
named after a Devaprayag
Bombay prome-
nade famous for
its views. The Wall
J
J
1 Kaudiyala
The starting point
J
of the river tour, Three Blind Mice

it has scenic camp-
sites on the river bank. Gange
s
Golf Course
3 Shivpuri
The beautiful Glasshouse
on the Ganges (see p239)
offers a spectacular
view of the river and the
surrounding countryside.
4 Brahmapuri
An ashram, one of many Key
along the Ganges, is Tour route
located here.
Roads
River
5 Lakshman Jhula
A modern suspension
bridge replaced the old
rope bridge in 1929. This Tips for River Rafters
leads to the quieter east Length: 36 km (22 miles).
bank of Rishikesh where Stopping-off points: White-
most ashrams are situated. water rafting can be done in
leisurely stages, over two days,
with a night halt at the Kaudiyala
6 Rishikesh Camp. Stopover points are
An ancient spiritual centre, provided at Marine Drive, Shiv-
Rishikesh is serenely located puri and Brahmapuri. However,
0 kilometres 10
on the banks of the Ganges a shorter tour of the same stretch
amid lush, wooded hills. 0 miles 5 can also be covered in one day.

AGRA AND AROUND

Agra was the imperial capital of the Mughal court
during the 16th and 17th centuries, before it was shifted
to Delhi. The Mughals were prolific builders and nowhere
is this more evident than in the picturesque riverine region
along the Yamuna which is the backdrop for its palaces,
tombs, forts and gardens. Three of these, the Taj Mahal,
the Agra Fort and Akbar’s abandoned capital of Fatehpur
Sikri, have been declared World Heritage Sites by UNESCO.
The imperial Mughal highway which still After the decline of the Mughals, some
runs south along the Yamuna between of the more ambitious bandits declared
Delhi and Agra is a link to the region’s themselves kings and built for themselves
historical past. The rich pastoral and small, but powerful kingdoms with
agricultural land around Brindavan, the magnificent fortresses in this harsh
supposed homeland of Krishna (see p166), area. Their architecture, which is a happy
was the main axis of the Mughal empire. amalgam of traditional Hindu with
The outer fringes of this area, formed by Muslim building styles, can be seen
Mathura, Bharatpur and Deeg, have in Datia, Orchha and Deeg.
wetlands that attract many rare migratory Itinerant poets and musicians in
birds, such as the Siberian crane, who this area still sing of daring kings and
come each winter to the World Heritage queens such as Laxmibai, the Rani of
Site of the Keoladeo Ghana National Park. Jhansi. Her spirited resistance to the
As one goes further west and south, the British forces during the Indian Mutiny
greens and gold of the Yamuna lands give of 1857 made her a popular icon during
way to the scrub and ravines along the the Freedom Movement. Close by lies
River Chambal. This is the centre of the Gwalior. This significant princely state
subcontinent: hot, dusty and vast. These has a magnificent fort that goes back
awesome ravines were the preferred habitat to the 3rd century, and splendid palaces
of robbers and dacoits (armed bandits). built by its Scindia rulers.
Marble filigree screen surrounding the tombs at the Taj Mahal, Agra
Red sandstone architecture of the Jahangiri Mahal, Agra Fort
Exploring Agra and Around

Agra lies in the centre of a rich and varied cultural territory.
At one end of this region are the pastoral fields around the
River Yamuna, and at the other, the stark and awesome ravines
Delhi
of the River Chambal. Between these two rivers are a number
of towns, monuments and sanctuaries, making this one of Kosi
the most popular travel circuits in North India. In mythology, BR
AJB
HUM
Mathura was the sacred territory of Krishna (see p165) TOUR I
while in history, it was the centre of an influential Buddhist BRINDAVAN
kingdom, and the imperial Mughal highway ran through it. Govardhan
Later, Jat, Rajput and Bundela kings built forts and palaces in DEEG
nearby Bharatpur, Deeg, Jhansi, Datia and Orchha. Thus, this MATHURA
region contains some of the best examples of Indian art and BHARATPUR
architecture, while the wetlands around Bharatpur provide
a natural habitat for a range of wildlife and migratory birds. KEOLADEO
GHANA NP
Jaipur FATEHPUR
SIKRI
Bayana
Jogner
BARI
RAJASTHAN
l
ba
am
Ch
Sabalgarh
Cows near Brindavan, where they enjoy sacred status Birpur

Bijaipur
Sawai
Madhopur
Jakhoda Burda
Sheopur
Khankar
Goras
MADHYA
Pohri
Shivpuri
Kolaras
Key
Highway
Badarwas
Major road
Guna
Minor road
Railroad
State border
0 kilometres 50
0 miles 25
A Mughal kos minar on the Grand Trunk Road

AGRA AND AROUND 153
Atrauli
Khair Bareilly
Aligarh
Akrabad
Kasganj
Iglas Sikandra Rao
Hathras U T TA R
Raya PRADESH Etah
Sadabad Jalesar Temples and bathing ghats along the Yamuna at Mathura
Umargarh
SIKANDRA Etmadpur Mainpuri
AGRA Bhongaon
Shikohabad
Fatehabad Karhal Getting Around

Shamsabad
The best way to explore this region
is by car. The National Highway (NH2)
Cham
bal
which runs from Delhi to Agra goes
DHOLPUR Etawah through Mathura. A network of smaller
Ambah
Kanpur roads links the region beyond Mathura
and Brindavan. Except in patches,
Bhind
particularly after the monsoon, these
Mahgawan
Morena are generally in a good condition.
Nurabad Once in Mathura, a boat trip along the
Gohad Yamuna is a good way to see the ghats.
Jora Lahar The Keoladeo Ghana Sanctuary provides
GWALIOR
tourists with cycle-rickshaws and guides
Mau on payment. The area is also well
BU
serviced by trains, including the high

Seondha
N
speed Shatabdi Express, which goes from

D
Ghatigaon Bhander Delhi to Bhopal via Gwalior and Jhansi

EL
Lucknow
and the Taj Express between Delhi and
KH
Mohana Dabra
Agra. Several trains pass through Jhansi,
AN
Garaja Bhander
from where easy car trips can be made
D
DATIA to Datia and Orchha. Agra and Gwalior

Behgama
TO
also have domestic airports.

a Gursarai
w
UR
PRADESH
t
Be
Jhansi
Tahrauli
Karera
Sights at a Glance
1 Agra pp154–63
Amola ORCHHA 2 Sikandra
Mau Ranipur Karara 3 Mathura
4 Brindavan
Pichor
6 Deeg
Nowgong
Jatara 7 Bharatpur
Ranod
Lalitpur 8 Keoladeo Ghana National Park
pp172–3
Isagarh 9 Fatehpur Sikri pp174–7
0 Dholpur
Tikamgarh q Bari
w Gwalior
e Datia
t Orchha pp180–81
Tours
5 Brajbhumi
r Bundelkhand

1 Agra
Agra was the imperial Mughal capital during the 16th and
17th centuries. It was from here that the emperors Akbar,
Jahangir and Shah Jahan governed their vast empire. The
city flourished under their patronage, attracting artisans
from Persia and Central Asia, and also from other parts of
India, who built luxurious forts, mausoleums and gardens.
Agra’s strategic location on the banks of the Yamuna as well
as on the Grand Trunk Road linking eastern India with the west,
made it a trading station, visited by merchants and travellers
from all over the world. With the decline of the Mughals, Agra
was captured by the Jats, the Marathas, and finally the British.
P Agra Fort says, in Nur Jahan’s time used

Open 6am–6pm daily. & to be filled with thousands Entrance to the beautiful Jahangir Mahal,
Situated on the west bank of rose petals so that the built during the reign of Akabr
of the Yamuna, Agra Fort was empress could bathe in
built by Akbar between 1565 its scented waters. where Shah Jahan, imprisoned
and 1573. Its imposing red Along the riverfront are by his son Aurangzeb, spent the
sandstone ramparts form a the Khas Mahal, an elegant last years of his life. Mina Masjid
crescent along the riverfront, marble hall with an exuberantly (“gem mosque”), probably the
and encompass an enormous painted ceiling, characteristic smallest in the world and
complex of courtly buildings, of Shah Jahan’s style of the emperor’s private
ranging in style from the early architecture, and two mosque, is nearby.
eclecticism of Akbar to the golden pavilions with To the side of
sublime elegance of Shah typical bangaldar roofs Musamman Burj is
Jahan. The barracks to the (see p311). These the Diwan-i-Khas,
north are 19th-century British pavilions were a lavishly decorated
additions. A deep moat, once supposedly open hall where
filled with water from the associated with the the emperor met
Yamuna, surrounds the fort. princesses Jahanara Musamman Burj his court. Two
The impressive Amar Singh and Roshanara, and thrones, in white
Gate to the south leads into the have narrow niches where marble and black slate, were
fort. To its right is the so-called jewels could be concealed. placed on the terrace for the
Jahangir Mahal, the only major Facing them is Anguri Bagh emperor to watch elephant
palace in the fort that dates (“grape garden”) with its lily- fights below. Opposite is
from Akbar’s reign. This complex pools and candle-niches. The the Machchhi Bhavan (“fish
arrangement of halls, courtyards Sheesh Mahal and royal baths house”), once a magnificent
and galleries with dungeons are to the northeast near the water palace. To its west is the
below was the zenana or the gloriously inlaid Musamman Diwan-i-Aam, an arcaded hall
main harem building. In front Burj, the double-storeyed within a large courtyard. Its
of Jahangir Mahal is a large octagonal tower with clear throne-alcove of inlaid marble
marble pool which, as legend views of the Taj. This was provided a sumptuous setting
for the fabled Peacock Throne.
To the northwest is the graceful
Nagina Masjid (“jewel mosque”)
built by Shah Jahan for his
harem, and the Moti Masjid
(“pearl mosque”).
Beyond is the Meena Bazaar,
the fort’s shopping centre,
overlooked by a fine marble
balcony where, according to
legend, the lovely Mumtaz
Mahal first met Shah Jahan.
The bazaar street led directly
to Delhi Gate, the original
entrance, and to the Jami
Masjid in the old city. Both the
gate and bazaar street are now
Colonnaded arches of the Diwan-i-Aam closed to the general public.
AGRA AND AROUND 155
Agra district. 223 km (139 miles)
SE of Delhi. Road map: D3.
* 3,600,000. n UPTDC Taj Rd,
(0562) 222 6431; Government
of India Tourist Office, 191 Mall
Rd, (0562) 222 6368. _ Kailash
Fair (Aug–Sep).
Transport
~ Kheria 16 km (10 miles).
£ Agra Cantonment (0562) 242
1039/139; Raja ki Mandi (0562)
Jami Masjid, built by Shah Jahan’s favourite daughter Jahanara 285 4477; Agra Fort (0562) 296
0457. @ Idgah (0562) 242 0324.
U Jami Masjid pattern dominate this section
Open daily. of the town. The eastern
A magnificently proportioned courtyard wing was demolished alleys can be a rewarding
building in the heart of by the British in 1857 experience, offering glimpses
the medieval town, (see pp58–9). Of interest of a close-knit way of life
the “Friday Mosque” are the tank with its reminiscent of Mughal Agra.
was sponsored by shahi chirag (“royal This is also the city’s crafts and
Shah Jahan’s favourite stove”) for heating trade centre, where a vast array
daughter, Jahanara water within the of products such as jewellery,
Begum, who also courtyard, and the zari embroidery, dhurries, sweets,
commissioned a separate prayer shoes and kites are available.
number of other A detail of the minaret chamber for ladies. Some of the main bazaars are
buildings and gardens, Johri Bazaar, Kinari Bazaar, Kaserat
including the canal that once Environs Bazaar and Kashmiri Bazaar. The
ran down Chandni Chowk in The area around Jami Masjid was quieter back lanes such as Panni
Delhi (see pp94–5). Built in 1648, a vibrant meeting place, famous Gali have fine buildings with
the mosque’s sandstone and for its kebab houses and lively decorative upper storeys and
marble domes with their bazaars. A stroll or rickshaw ride imposing gateways to secluded
distinctive zigzag chevron through the network of narrow courtyards and craft workshops.
Agra City Centre

1 Agra Fort Roman Catholic
Cemetery
CH
2 Jami Masjid
HIL
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4 St John’s College
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Exploring Agra: The Outer Sights

Agra’s European legacy dates back to the reign of Akbar,
when the first Jesuit missionaries from Portuguese-governed
Goa visited his court to participate in religious debates.
This marked the advent of Christianity in North India, and
paved the way for future European traffic in the region.
In the 18th and 19th centuries this was a great cosmopolitan
centre where priests and scholars, merchants and mercenaries
employed by the Scindias of Gwalior (see p178), lived, traded
or set up schools, colleges and impressive churches.
The red sandstone tomb built in memory
of John Hessing
5 Roman Catholic Cemetery

Dayal Bagh Rd, opp Civil Courts, off
National Highway 2. Open daily.
Towards the north of the
town is the Roman Catholic
Cemetery, the oldest European
graveyard in North India. It was
established in the 17th century
by an Armenian merchant,
Khoja Mortenepus, on a piece
Auto-rickshaws parked outside the Fort Railway Station of land purchased from the
church as the burial ground
P Agra Fort Railway Station P St John’s College for Agra’s large Armenian
Tel (0562) 132/135. NH2 (Drummond Rd/Mahatma trading community.
This memorable colonial Gandhi Rd). Tel (0562) 324 7846. A number of Islamic-style
building was constructed St John’s College, started gravestones, with inscriptions
in 1891 as a stopover for by the Church Missionary in Armenian, survive today,
colonial tourists visiting Society, has been described and include the graves of the
Agra’s monuments. The as “an astounding mixture of cannon expert, Shah Nazar
octagonal bazaar chowk the antiquarian, the scholarly Khan, and Khoja Mortenepus
that originally connected and the symbolic”. It consists himself. The cemetery also
the Delhi Gate and Agra Fort of a group of red sandstone contains tombs of European
to the old city and the Jami buildings, including a hall missionaries, traders, and
Masjid was demolished, and and library, arranged around adventurers such as Walter
the many-towered station with a quadrangle, all designed Reinhardt (see p146).
its French château-style slate- in a quasi-Fatehpur Sikri style One of the oldest tombs
roofed platforms was built in by Sir Samuel Swinton Jacob belongs to the English
its place. This is still one of (see p198). The building was merchant John Mildenhall
Agra’s most frequently-used inaugurated in 1914 by the (d.1614), envoy of Elizabeth I,
stations; the other two are viceroy, Lord Hardinge, and who arrived at the Mughal court
located in the cantonment it remains one of the region’s in 1603 seeking permission to
and at Raja ki Mandi. highly lauded institutions. trade. Other interesting graves
St John’s College, designed by Sir Samuel Swinton Jacob

AGRA AND AROUND 157
P Firoz Khan
Khwajasara’s Tomb
S of Agra, on Gwalior Rd. Open daily.
A signpost on the Gwalior
Road indicates the turning
to this unusual 17th-century
octagonal tomb, standing
on the edge of a lake. This
is where Firoz Khan, eunuch
and custodian of Shah Jahan’s
palace harem, is buried. The red
sandstone structure stands on
a high plinth and has a gateway
attached to the main building.
St George’s Church in Agra Cantonment Steps lead to the upper storey
where a central pavilion
include those of a Venetian public buildings, churches, containing the cenotaph is
doctor, Bernardino Maffi, and cemeteries and bungalows in located. Highly stylized stone
Geronimo Veroneo (once a medley of styles dating from carvings decorate the surface.
wrongly regarded by some the British days. St George’s Interestingly, unlike other
as the architect of the Taj). Church (1826), a yellow ochre buildings of the period, there
Near the chapel is the tall plastered building, visible even is an absence of calligraphic
obelisk marking the grave of the from the Taj, is a typical example inscriptions. If the tomb is
four children of General Perron, of the North Indian cantonment closed, the chowkidar from
French commander of Scindia’s style of architecture. JT Boileau, the village will open the gate.
forces. Another Frenchman, a the architect, also built the
member of the Bourbon family Christ Church in Shimla.
and kinsman of Henry IV of France, Havelock Memorial Church
is also buried at this site. (1873), constructed in a “trim
The largest and most Classical style”, commemorates
impressive grave is that of one of the British generals of
John Hessing (d.1803) who the 1857 mutiny. Queen Mary’s
first ventured out east as a Library and the Central Post
soldier with the Dutch East India Office are other buildings in
Company at Kandy (Sri Lanka). the area.
He came to India in 1763 and Structures such as the Agra
joined the service of the Nizam Club, once the hub of British
of Hyderabad in the south, cantonment social life, and
before moving northwards to be the hybrid Indo-Saracenic
a mercenary with Scindia’s forces. government Circuit House,
His red sandstone tombstone, which used to accommodate
interestingly modelled on the officials of the Raj, are also The central pavilion where Firoz Khan
lines of the Taj Mahal, was built located in the cantonment. is buried
by a local architect.
One of the tombs, in memory
of Father Santos, is enclosed by Gold Thread and Bead Zardozi
a trellis frame where Hindus and Agra’s flourishing local craft tradition of elaborate gold thread and
Muslims tie threads, praying for bead embroidery is known as zardozi. This technique was Central
the fulfillment of their wishes. Asian in origin and came to the region with the Mughal emperors.
To its south, on Wazirpura Local craftsmen in the old city added further refinements to create
Road, is the Roman Catholic garments and accessories for the Imperial court. However, with the
Cathedral, constructed in the decline of court patronage, the skill languished and almost vanished.
18th century at the expense It owes its recent revival to encouragement from contemporary
of Walter Reinhardt. An old, fashion designers. The
derelict church from Akbar’s delicate stitches and
complicated patterns
time stands next to it.
in genuine gold thread
and coloured beads
P Cantonment
are now widely used
Bounded by Mahatma Gandhi Rd, for both traditional
Grand Parade Rd and the Mall Rd. and contemporary
The pleasant, tree-shaded army garments and accessories,
cantonment area, with its own including shawls and
railway station and orderly scarves, bags and shoes. Detail of a zari-embroidered textile
avenues, has many interesting
Taj Mahal
One of the world’s most famous buildings, the Taj
Mahal commemorates both the Mughal emperor
Shah Jahan, and Mumtaz Mahal, his favourite wife. The Dome
Its perfect proportions and exquisite craftsmanship The 44-m (144-ft) double dome
have been described as “a prayer, a vision, a dream, is capped with a finial.
a poem, a wonder.” This sublime garden-tomb, an image
of the Islamic garden of paradise, cost nearly 41 million
rupees and 500 kilos of gold. Around 20,000 workers
laboured for almost 22 years to complete it in 1653.
. Marble Screen
The filigree screen
delicately carved
from a single block
of marble was
meant to veil
the area around
the royal tombs.
KEY
1 Plinth
2 Four minarets, each 40 m
(131 ft) high and crowned
River by a chhatri, frame the tomb,
Yamuna highlighting the perfect
. Tomb Chamber symmetry of the complex.
Mumtaz Mahal’s cenotaph, raised on a platform, 3 The Charbagh was irrigated by
is placed next to Shah Jahan’s. The actual graves, the waters of the River Jamuna.
in a dark crypt below, are closed to the public.
TA J M A H A L 159
Main Practical Information

entrance Taj Mahal. Tel (0562) 233 0498.
Closed Fri. & = _ Taj
Mahotsav (18–27 Feb). Museum:
Closed public hols. &
The Lotus Pool

Named after its lotus-shaped fountain spouts,
the pool reflects the tomb. Almost every visitor
is photographed sitting on the marble bench here.
Pishtaq
Recessed arches
provide depth while
their inlaid panels
reflect the changing
light to give the tomb
a mystical aura.
. Pietra Dura
Inspired by the paradise garden,
intricately carved floral designs inlaid
with precious stones embellish the
austere white marble surface to give
it the look of a bejewelled casket.
Taj Mahal
1 Main Tomb
2 2 Masjid (mosque)
1 3
3 Mehmankhana
(guesthouse)
4 Charbagh
5 Gateway
Calligraphic Panels
The size of the Koranic Key
verses increases as the arch 5
gets higher, creating the Central illustration
subtle optical illusion of a Charbagh
uniformly flowing script.
Decorative Elements of the Taj

It is widely believed that the Taj Mahal was designed
to represent an earthly replica of one of the houses of
paradise. Its impeccable marble facing, embellished by
a remarkable use of exquisite surface design, is a splendid
showcase for the refined aesthetic that reached its height
during Shah Jahan’s reign. Described as “one of the most
elegant and harmonious buildings in the world”, the Taj
indeed manifests the wealth and luxury of Mughal art as
seen in architecture and garden design, painting, jewellery,
Detail of the marble screen with an inlaid
calligraphy, textiles, carpet-weaving and furniture.
chrysanthemum
Pietra Dura
The Mughals were great naturalists
who believed that flowers were the
“symbols of the divine realm”. In the
Taj, pietra dura has been extensively
used to translate naturalistic forms into
decorative patterns that complement
the majesty of its architecture.
Flowers such as the

tulip, lily, iris, poppy
and narcissus were
depicted as sprays
or arabesque patterns.
Stones of varying
degrees of colour
were used to create
the shaded effects.
White marble, black slate and yellow, red and grey

Inlaid marble above the mosque’s central arch sandstone are used for decoration
Pietra Dura Craftsmanship

The Florentine technique of pietra dura is said to have been
imported by Jahangir and developed in Agra
as pachikari. Minute slivers of precious and
semi-precious stones, such as carnelian,
lapis lazuli, turquoise and malachite,
were arranged in complex stylized floral
designs into a marble base. Even today,
artisans in the old city maintain pattern
books containing the intricate motifs
used on the Taj and can still
A contemporary inlaid re-create 17th-century designs
marble platter in contemporary pieces. A single flower often had more than 35
variations of carnelian
TA J M A H A L 161
Carved Relief Work

Decorative panels of flowering plants, foliage
and vases are realistically carved on the lower
portions of the walls. While the pietra dura
adds colour to the pristine white marble these
highlight the texture of the polished marble
and sandstone surface.
Floral sprays,
carved in relief on
the marble and
sandstone dado
levels, are framed
with pietra dura and
stone inlay borders.
The profusion of
floral motifs in the
Taj symbolizes
the central
paradise theme.
Jaali patterns on the

octagonal perforated
screen surrounding the
cenotaphs are a complex
combination of the floral
and geometric. The
filtered light captures
the intricate designs
and casts mosaic-like
shadows on the tombs.
Calligraphy
Inlaid calligraphy in black marble was used as a
form of ornamentation on undecorated surfaces.
The exquisitely detailed panels of inscriptions of
Koranic passages, which line the recessed arches
like banners, were designed by the Persian
calligrapher, Amanat Khan.
Exploring the Itimad-ud-Daulah’s Tomb

East Bank Described as a “jewel box in marble”, the small, elegant
The picturesque east bank of garden tomb of Mirza Ghiyath Beg, entitled Itimad-ud-
the Yamuna is dotted with the Daulah, the “Lord Treasurer” of the Mughal empire, was
remains of gardens, palaces, built over a period of six years from 1622 by his daughter
pavilions and the exquisite
tomb of Itimad-ud-Daulah.
Nur Jahan, Jahangir’s favourite wife. This tomb is a combi-
North of Itimad-ud-Daulah is nation of white marble, coloured mosaic, stone inlay and
Chini ka Rauza (literally, “China lattice work. Stylistically too, this is the most innovative
tomb” after its tiled exterior), 17th-century Mughal building and marks the transition
built by Afzal Khan, a poet- from the robust, red sandstone architecture of Akbar
scholar from Shiraz who was
to the sensuous refinement of Shah Jahan’s Taj Mahal.
Shah Jahan’s prime minister.
This large square structure is
Persian in style, and at one
time its surface was covered
with glazed tiles from Lahore
and Multan, interspersed with
calligraphic panels in graceful
Naskh characters. The burial
chamber within has painted
stucco plaster design that once
must have complemented
the tiled exterior.
Further upriver is the quiet,
tree-shaded Rambagh or Aram
Bagh (“garden of rest”). This is Upper Pavilion
said to be the first Mughal The replica tombs of
garden laid out by Babur, the Itimad-ud-Daulah and
founder of the Mughal dynasty, his wife are located in
in 1526 (see p171), and his the marble-screened
temporary burial place before upper pavilion.
his body was taken to Kabul to
be interred. The spacious walled
garden, divided by walkways
leading to a raised terrace with
open pavilions overlooking the
river, was further developed by
Nur Jahan.
 Chini ka Rauza
1 km (less than a mile) N of Itimad-
ud-Daulah. Open 6am–6pm daily.
Y Rambagh
3 km (2 miles) N of Itimad-ud-Daulah,
Etmadpur. Open 6am–5pm daily. & Mosaic Patterns
Panels of geometric designs
created by inlaid coloured
stones decorate the dado
level of the tomb.
KEY
1 Tapering pinnacles with lotus

mouldings crown the minarets.
2 The dome with its canopy-like . Marble Screens
shape is different from the Perforated marble screens
conventional domes of this period. with complex ornamental
3 The marble latticed balustrade patterns are carved out of
Riverside pavilion at Rambagh a single slab of marble.
AGRA 163
E bank of Yamuna. 8 km
(4 miles) upstream from the
Taj Mahal. Tel (0562) 228 0030.
Open sunrise–sunset daily. &
The Tomb
The square two-storeyed tomb stands
in the centre of a charbagh. At the
four corners of the low platform
are four squat attached minarets.
. Tomb Chamber
The roof has incised,
painted and gilded
stucco and stalactite
patterns. The yellow
marble caskets appear
to have been carved
out of wood.
Chhatri
Each minaret is
crowned by an
open-pillared,
domed chhatri.
. Pietra Dura
Entrance The polished marble
surface is covered with
stone inlay, the first time
this technique was
extensively used in
Mughal architecture.
Painted Floral Patterns

Niches with painted floral bouquets,
fruit, trees and wine decanters
embellish the interior of the central
chamber of the main tomb.
respect on entry. Just outside

the complex is the Kanch
Mahal, a double-storeyed red
sandstone mansion with an
ornamented façade, fretted
balconies and inlaid mosaic
work. Further down, on
Mathura Road, is Mariam
Zamani’s Tomb, where one
of Akbar’s wives is buried
in a square building set on
a high plinth within a small
garden. It was used as an
The entrance to Akbar’s mausoleum at Sikandra orphanage by the Church
Missionary Society in 1812.
2 Sikandra tomb of Akbar’s father, the A church has been constructed
Agra district. 8 km (5 miles) NW
second Mughal emperor, in the compound. Further
of Agra on NH2. Road map: D2. @ Humayun, at Delhi (see p87). along the Agra–Delhi highway
Akbar’s Mausoleum: Open 7am– The first three storeys of this is Guru-ka-Tal, a unique
5:15pm daily. & = 8 _ Urs majestic, four-tiered compo- example of the many tanks
at Akbar’s tomb (mid-Oct). sition comprise red constructed
sandstone pavilions. by Jahangir
The Mughal Emperor Akbar Above them is an for collecting
is buried in this small village exquisite marble- rainwater. Broad
on the outskirts of Agra. Named screened terrace flights of steps
after Sikander Lodi, one of the enclosing the lead down to
last of the Delhi sultans (see replica tomb, which the water. The
pp54–5), this was a pleasant is profusely carved reservoir is now
garden suburb during Agra’s with floral and part of a guru-
golden age. It is widely believed arabesque designs, Detail of a panel on the entrance dwara complex
that Akbar designed and started Chinese cloud gateway at Sikandra dedicated to the
the construction of his own patterns, and the 99 ninth Sikh guru,
mausoleum which, after his names of Allah. The upper levels, Tegh Bahadur (see p94).
death, was modified and earlier accessible through
completed by his son and special permission, are now Environs
successor, Jahangir. The result closed due to security reasons. About 4 km (2 miles) south of
is this impressive, perfectly The actual tomb is within a Sikandra stands a lifesize red
symmetrical complex with domed sepulchre in the heart sandstone horse on the spot
the tomb located in the centre of the building, illuminated by where Akbar’s favourite steed
of a vast, walled garden. shafts of light from an arched supposedly died. Located
The main gateway (see p31) window. A low door at the end opposite, is the gateway of
to the south is a magnificent of the ramp ensures that every Kachi-ki-Sarai, a historic rest
red sandstone structure with visitor bows his head with house along this route.
a colossal central arch, finished
with an exuberant polychrome
mosaic of inlaid white marble, The Grand Trunk Road
black slate and coloured stones. The Grand Trunk Road, Rudyard Kipling’s
On each corner of the gateway “stately corridor” that linked Calcutta in
are four graceful marble the east with Kabul in the northwest, was
minarets, considered to be laid out by Sher Shah Sur (see p88) in the
forerunners of those found later 16th century. In those days, it resounded
on the Taj Mahal (see pp158–9). with the movement of armies on campaign,
The garden, where deer and in times of peace, with the pomp and
and monkeys frolic, is a typical pageantry that accompanied the Mughal
emperors as their court moved from
charbagh (see p171). The wide
Agra to Delhi.
sweep of stone causeways A roadside dhaba
This is still one of Asia’s great roads and
leading to the tomb divides North India’s premier highway. Some of the
the area into four quadrants, ancient shade-giving trees still stand, but the old caravanserais are
each with its own fountain and now in ruins. Instead, at frequent intervals along the highway, there
sunken pond, fruit trees and are dhabas for long- distance travellers, especially lorry-drivers, to
bushes, now a derelict tangle. stop for a cheap and filling meal of dal and roti, washed down with
The main tomb is a distinct glasses of hot tea or cooling lassi, and to snatch a quick nap on
departure from the conven- string cots thoughtfully provided by the owner.
tional domed structure of the
AGRA AND AROUND 165
Vishram Ghat at Mathura where every evening at sunset oil lamps are floated on the river
3 Mathura of the Sacred Heart, built in exquisite pieces. These include

Mathura district. 62 km (39 miles)
1860 in the army cantonment. a perfectly preserved Standing
NW of Agra on NH2. Road map: D3. It combines Western elements Buddha, the famous headless
* 330,500. £ @ n Old Bus with details taken from local statue of the great Kushana king
Stand, Mathura. _ Holi (Feb–Mar), temple architecture. Kanishka, as well as a huge
Hariyali Teej (July), Janmashtami Mathura’s ancient history collection of carved columns,
(Aug–Sep), Annakut (Sep–Oct), predates the better railings and fragments of
Kansa Vadha (Sep). known legend of Krishna. narrative panels, excavated
From about the 5th from nearby archaeological
Mathura, on the west bank century BC until the 4th sites, depicting court
of the Yamuna, is where the century AD, the city scenes and religious
story of Krishna begins. A dark, prospered as imagery.
cell-like room in the complex a major centre of Also on view are
of the rather modern Sri Krishna Buddhism. Under the artifacts from the other
Janmabhoomi Temple, on the powerful Kushana and centres of Buddhist art,
periphery of the city, is revered Gupta dynasties, it was such as Gandhara (now
as the birthplace of one of India’s renowned throughout in Pakistan), showing
most popular gods. Further the ancient world as Graeco-Roman influences
away, along the riverfront, the North India’s cultural after Alexander’s invasion
city’s 25 ghats form a splendid capital. During this period of the northwest. There are
network of temples, pavilions, the Mathura School of Art A religious icon also sections on terracotta
trees and steps leading to the flourished (see pp50–51), from Mathura pottery and figurines
water. Teeming with colourful and superb pieces of dating from the 2nd–1st
shops selling traditional items, sculpture, made from the centuries BC, coins and medieval
such as its delicious pedas distinctive local white-flecked stone, brass and metal objects.
(milk sweets), this is the heart red sandstone, were carved
of the town. by artisans in workshops here E Government Museum
The evening aarti, when small and exported to far off places. Dampier Nagar. Tel (0565) 250 0847.
oil lamps are floated on the river, The Government Museum Open 10:30am–4:30pm Tue–Sun.
is performed at Vishram Ghat, collection highlights the Mathura Closed Mon, second Sun of month
where legend says Krishna rested School of Art and has some & public hols. &
after he killed the tyrant Kamsa.
Close by is the Sati Burj, a red
sandstone pavilion built in the
1570s, and Kans Qila, the site
of the old fort where Sawai Jai
Singh II of Jaipur constructed
one of his five observatories
(see pp196–7).
The Jami Masjid, with
its striking tile-work, and a
number of other interesting
buildings with elaborately
carved façades, lie behind the
riverfront. A charming oddity
is the Roman Catholic Church A boat carrying pilgrims along the Yamuna
4 Brindavan
Mathura district. 68 km (42 miles)
NW of Agra off NH2. Road map D3.
* 63,000. @ n Old Bus Stand,
Mathura. _ Holi (Feb–Mar), Rath
ka Mela (Mar), Hariyali Teej (Jul),
Janmashtami (Aug–Sep). ( daily.
Situated along the River

Yamuna, Brindavan (literally,
“forest of fragrant basil”)
became an important pilgrim
centre after the early 16th
century, when Chaitanya
Mahaprabhu, a Vaishnava saint Pilgrims on the chaurasi kos ki yatra
from Bengal, revived the Krishna
cult. He encouraged Bengali flower garlands and milk originally a seven-storeyed
devotees, especially widows, to sweets called pedas, believed structure built in 1590 by
settle here in ashrams endowed to have been loved by Krishna. Raja Man Singh I of Amber.
by wealthy Hindu merchants. All this gives the feeling that The presiding deity is now
However, the town’s mythic the people of Brindavan live in Jaipur (see p186). Across
origins are much older, as in an enchanted time warp. this temple is the 19th-century
devout Hindus believe that the This charming phenomenon Sri Ranganathji, an imposing
young Lord Krishna once lived is best seen in Brindavan’s Dravidian-style temple with
here as a humble cowherd with numerous temples and ghats, a gold-plated ritual pillar and a
his foster parents. So “his” cows built by the Hindu kings of fascinating museum of temple
still have the run of the streets Amber, Bharatpur and Orchha treasures. Beyond these, and
and his name is continuously and by rich merchants. The within the narrow streets of
chanted in prayer halls. Stalls edge of the old town has the the old town, are the sacred
outside temples sell elaborate historic Govindeoji Temple, walled groves of Seva Kunj,
Delhi
5 Brajbhumi Driving Tour Kosi
This was the
Devotees believe that the area around Braj treasure-house
of Krishna’s foster
is composed of sacred mandalas (circuits) father, Nand.
that map the idyllic pastoral landscape of
Krishna’s early life. Divided by the Yamuna,
this tour partly follows the chaurasi kos ki
yatra, a traditional pilgrimage of about 300
km (186 miles), undertaken around the
Janmashtami celebrations.
4 Barsana
With its 17th-century
Ladliji temple, Barsana
is believed to be the
home of Radha.
5 Nandgaon
Krishna lived here
with foster parents 3 Govardhan
Nand and Yashoda This pilgrim town has grown around the
after his escape hill that legend says Krishna lifted on his
from Gokul and finger to shield the people of Braj from
the evil Kamsa. torrential rain. Nearby is Kusum Sarovar.
AGRA AND AROUND 167
linked with the Raslila dance 6 Deeg

of the region (see p34). Bharatpur district. 98 km (61 miles)
The Shahji Temple with NW of Agra on NH2. Road map D3.
its spiral columns, lies on the n RTDC Hotel Saras, Agra Rd,
way to Nidhivana where Swami Bharatpur (05644) 22 3790. _ Holi
Haridas, the guru of Tansen (Feb–Mar), Rath ka Mela (Mar).
(see p178), developed the classic
musical tradition of Dhrupad in Once the capital of the Jat
the 16th century. kings of Bharatpur (see p170),
Other notable temples are Deeg rose to prominence
the Madan Mohan Temple, after the decline of the Mughal
built in 1580 with local red empire in the 18th century.
sandstone, Its square fort, a massive
on a hill next to edifice, has mud and rubble
the river. A little walls which are buttressed
further are the by 12 bastions and a shallow
popular Banke Gopuram of the South Indian- style moat. The fortified town
Bihari Temple, Ranganathji Temple outside the fort once had
which can be grand mansions, lush gardens
approached the Brindavan Research and pools, but these now lie
A Vaishanavite from the main Institute, on the outskirts of unkempt and forlorn. Deeg’s
sadhu bazaar street, the town, are recent additions Raja Suraj Mal and his son,
and the to the town’s skyline. Jawahir Singh, were also
16th-century Jugal Kishore At Holi and Janmashtami builders of lavish pleasure
Temple, adjoining the main (see pp40–41), Brindavan is palaces. Of these, the most
pilgrim route to the ghats. a riot of colour and dance remarkable is the Water
The Gopinath and Radha as people celebrate the god Palace (see pp168–9), built in
Raman temples are located who still enchants them and celebration of the monsoon.
close to each other near Keshi where his lila (divine sport) This was a favourite summer
Ghat. The ISKCON Temple and is still a living presence. retreat of the Bharatpur kings.
Tips for Drivers

Key Length: 105 km (65 miles).
Stopping-off points: Brindavan
Tour route has good hotels and restaurants
Roads and is the ideal base for the
tour. Both Radhakund and
Rivers
Barsana have UPSTDC tourist
bungalows, and Govardhan
2 Radhakund
and Kosi have petrol stations.
Said to be Radha’s personal
However, private transport will
bathing pool, it has a special
be a more convenient way
sanctity for her devotees. 0 kilometres 5
to explore this region.
0 miles 2
una The Krishna Cult

m
Ya
A peacock feather, a flute and the

colour blue announce the presence
of Krishna. Named after his dark skin,
this most human of gods still haunts
the glades and forests along the Yamuna.
A naughty child who was passionately
fond of milk and butter, Krishna is also
1 Brindavan
the charming flute-player whose
An important
flirtatious dalliance with Radha is a
pilgrim centre,
metaphor for the complex metaphysics
it is separated
Sanjhi, Brindavan’s paper of temporal and spiritual love, widely
from Mathura
celebrated in art and literature.
by the River stencil craft
Yamuna.
Deeg Water Palace

The magic of the monsoon and the traditions of music and dance
associated with it inspired the Bharatpur kings to build a romantic
“water palace” at their summer capital, Deeg. A lyrical composition
of sandstone and marble pavilions, gardens and pools, this late
18th-century marvel, built by Raja Suraj Mal, used a number of Nand Bhavan
innovative special effects that simulated monsoon showers, even Huge terracotta water pitchers
producing rainbows. The skilful cooling system drew water from placed inside its innovative
a huge reservoir that originally took two days to fill. The coloured double roof insulated its interior
against the heat of summer.
fountain-jets are now played only during the Jawahar Mela.
. Sawan Pavilion
Shaped like an upturned boat,
its ingenious water system created
a semi-circle of falling water.
Mughal
Marble Swing
This was a part
of Suraj Mal’s
war booty, now
placed in front
of Gopal Bhavan.
KEY
1 Bhadon Pavilion
2 Gopal Sagar Tank
3 Rup Sagar Tank
4 Kishan Bhavan
5 The roof-level reservoir had
water drawn to it from four wells.
Pipes led from holes in its sides . Gopal Bhavan
to supply the chutes and fountains This elegant complex is flanked by the boat-shaped Sawan-Bhadon
with a continuous stream of water. pavilions. Its numerous overhanging kiosks and balconies are
6 Charbagh reflected in Gopal Sagar from which it seems to rise. The interior
still retains the original furnishings and objets d’art of this palace.
DEEG 169
Bharatpur district. 95 km (59 miles)
NW of Agra. Road map D3.
Open 9:30am–5:30pm daily.
. Keshav Bhavan Closed Fri, the day after Holi (Mar).
Heavy lithic balls were placed on the roof here. When water _ Jawahar Mela (Sep). ( Mon. &
gushed up the hollow pillars and pipes inside the arches, the
balls rolled on the roof to produce “thunder”. Transport
@
Lotus Quoins
Placed at each corner
of the plinth, these
urns were inspired
by Mughal designs.
Suraj Bhavan
A pillared, secluded pavilion with
a splendid view of the charbagh,
it was part of the zenana enclosure.
Monsoon Architecture
In the dry areas of North India, light and wind
direction guided architecture. Underground rooms,
water channels, fountains, latticed screens, terrazzo
floors and open courtyards were devices to keep
homes cool before the advent of electricity. The
Sawan-Bhadon pavilions at Deeg, named after
the months of the monsoon (July–August),
are an architectural style inspired by the rainy
season. Built to savour the thunder and rain of the
Coloured water fountains at Deeg monsoon, such pavilions adorned forts and palaces.
7 Bharatpur
Bharatpur district. 55 km (34 miles) W
of Agra. Road map D3. * 2,552,600.
n opp RTDC Hotel Saras Circle, Agra
Rd (05644) 22 2542. @ _ Jaswant
Mela (Oct).
Most famous for its bird

sanctuary, the kingdom
of Bharatpur, on the eastern
edge of Rajasthan, came
into prominence during the
declining years of the Mughal
Empire. It was founded by the
fearless Jats, a community
of landowners. Their most The State museum at Lohagarh fort, Bharatpur
remarkable leader was Raja
Suraj Mal (r.1724–63), who moats. Most of the outermost other two palaces were
in 1733 captured and fortified ramparts have disintegrated, located around the Katcheri
the city of Bharatpur, thereby but the inner ones are intact (court) Bagh, and now house
laying the foundations of his and are distinguished by two the State Museum, where
capital. This powerful ruler towers, the Jawahar Burj and a rare collection of 1st- and
defied the reigning Mughal Fateh Burj, built to mark 2nd-century stone carvings
emperor, stormed Delhi and successive Jat victories over and terracotta toys from nearby
Agra and brought home the the Mughals and the British. The excavations can be seen.
massive gates of Agra Fort Victory Column at Jawahar An interesting sunken
and installed them at his own Burj carries hamam is close by.
fort at Deeg’s Water Palace an inscription with the In 1818, Bharatpur
(see pp168–9), near Bharatpur. genealogy of the Jat became the first
A prolific builder as well, he kings. Both its north Rajput state to sign
used the loot from Mughal and south gates were a treaty of alliance
buildings, including a swing part of the loot from with the British East
(now in Deeg), to embellish the imperial Mughal India Company.
the forts and palaces he built capital at Delhi. A later maharaja was
throughout his kingdom. Three palaces were a keen collector of
In the centre of the town is built in the fort by Rolls Royce cars, which
Lohagarh (“iron fort”), which the rustic Jats in a Figure of Krishna, he converted for use
withstood repeated attacks surprisingly fine mix State Museum on tiger and duck.
by the Marathas and the British of Mughal and Rajput
until it was finally captured by stylistic detail. The royal P State Museum
Lord Lake in 1805. When built, apartments, in Mahal Khas, Near Nehru Park. Tel (05644) 22 8185.
it was a masterpiece of had unusual octagonal Open 9:45am–5:15pm Tue–Sun.
construction with massive chambers in the corners with Closed Mon. & extra charges.
double ramparts made of solid colourful painted walls, but
packed mud and rubble that these are now the site of a
were surrounded by impressive pharmaceutical college. The 8 Keoladeo Ghana
National Park
See pp172–3.
9 Fatehpur Sikri
See pp174–7.
0 Dholpur
Dholpur district. 54 km (34 miles)
S of Agra. Road map D3. * 130,200.
n Bharatpur, (05644) 22 2542. @
Situated on the banks of the

River Chambal, the small town
of Dholpur was strategically
The moat and ramparts of Lohagarh located on the route from Delhi
AGRA AND AROUND 171
The lakeside temples of Machkund near Dholpur
to the Deccan, making it Environs q Bari

the target of invading armies. Dholpur town is a convenient Dholpur district. 84 km (68 miles) SW
In 1504, Sikandar Lodi set up base to explore a number of of Agra. Road map D4. n Bharatpur,
camp here for a month on his fascinating neighbouring (05644) 22 2542. @
march against Gwalior. Some sites. Machkund (3 km/2 miles
20 years later, Babur made this west), has over 100 temples The site of an old 100-acre
a royal domain of his new empire. along its lake. Its waters are (40 ha) garden once so dense
The ruined Shergarh Fort, said said to heal all skin that sunlight could not
to be 1,000 years old, is in diseases. Damoh, a reach the ground, Bari
Dholpur and so is a modest popular picnic spot, was where Emperor
19th-century palace (closed has 76 waterfalls. Talab Shah Jahan built a
to the public) which can only Shahi (40 km/25 miles) number of pleasure
be seen through an ironwork has the remains of pavilions. Located
railing. The palace has a number hunting lodges nearby is the Vana
of art deco rooms covered with developed by the Vihar Ram Sagar
European tiles. Dholpur is today Jat rulers of Dholpur Wildlife Reserve, home
associated with the beige- for their numerous to crocodiles, sambhar,
coloured sandstone quarried European guests. wild boar and several
nearby, used in buildings all Off the beaten track is species of migratory
over Rajasthan and made Jhor (16km/10 miles), bird. Remains of an
famous by Lutyens, who where in 1978, Babur’s old fort built by Feroze
used it for the building 400-year-old Lotus Shah Jahan’s palace Shah Tughlaq can also
of New Delhi (see pp72–3). Garden was discovered. gate, Bari be seen here.
Babur and the Paradise Garden

The concept of the Paradise Garden, the hallmark of Mughal
landscape design, was introduced by the first Great Mughal, Babur.
Yearning for the natural beauty of Ferghana, his homeland in Central
Asia, he recreated the Persian paradise garden based on Islamic
geometric and metaphysical concepts of design.
The charbagh was an enclosed garden divided into four
quarters, representing the four quarters of life, by a system of raised
walkways, sunken groves and water channels. Water was the central
element, for it was regarded by the rulers of Central Asian desert king-
doms as the source of life. The intersecting water channels met at a
focal point which contained a pavilion for the emperor, seen as a
representative of God on earth.
The Mughals used their gardens as living spaces, and also as settings
for their garden tombs (see p33). The Jhor garden of paradise, sometimes
referred to as the Lotus Garden, was laid out in 1527, barely a year
after Babur invaded India. Three water channels, Babur’s hot bath,
The Garden of Fidelity in the a tank and a pavilion are all that remain of the original garden, which
Babur Nama once covered several acres (2 ha).
8 Keoladeo Ghana National Park

A World Heritage Site regarded as one of the world’s
most important bird sanctuaries, Keoladeo Ghana derives
its name from a Shiva temple (Keoladeo) within a dense
(ghana) forest. This once-arid scrubland was first developed
by the Bharatpur rulers in the mid-18th century by diverting
the waters of a nearby irrigation canal to create a private
Bharatpur’s wetlands, which hold
duck reserve. Extravagant shooting parties for viceroys and one of the world’s finest heronries
other royal guests were held here, and horrifying numbers
of birds were shot in a single day. Today, the park spreads
over 29 sq km (11 sq miles) of wetlands, and attracts a wide Jaipur
variety of migrant and water birds who fly in each winter
from places as distant as Siberia. Keoladeo’s dry area has
Forest Lodge .
a mixed deciduous and scrub vegetation and is home to
many mammals such as the nilgai antelope.
.
Shanti
Kutir
J
Mrig
Sapanmari
Tal
Ramnagar
Lala Pyare
Around the Park ka Kund
Expert boatmen navigate the wetlands and point
out bird colonies. Bicycles and cycle-rickshaws are
also available for touring the forest paths.
Birds,
Resident and J
al
an
Migrant
aC
an
The park attracts

iks
Ch
over 375 bird

species belonging
to 56 families. Key
Egrets, darter Motorway Aghapur
cormorants,
Main road
The male Sarus crane dances to attract his mate grey herons and
storks hatch nearly Minor road
30,000 chicks every year. The park’s most eagerly awaited Park boundary
visitor, the Siberian crane, is now an endangered species. Other Walk/cycle trail
birds include the peregrine falcon, steppe eagle, garganery teal,
Marshland
snake bird and the white ibis. Among the large variety of storks
are the open-bill stork, the painted stork and the black-necked
stork, considered to be the world’s tallest stork. When standing KEY
on its coral-coloured legs, the bird
rises to a height of 2 m (6 ft), with a 1 Dry scrubland provides good
wing spread of 2.5 m (8 ft). The grazing for many species of deer
Sarus crane, a symbol of and cattle.
fidelity in Indian mythology,
2 A stone plaque near the temple
woos its partner for life with records the number of past bird shoots.
an elaborate mating dance. Baby cormorants
AGRA AND AROUND 173
Bharatpur district. 52 km
(32 miles) SW of Agra.
Road map D3. n RTDC,
opposite Hotel Saras Circle, Agra
Rd, Bharatpur, (05644) 22 2542.
Open 6am–6pm daily. & 8 -
Bharatpur
0 = m s Bicycles and cycle-
City
rickshaws available to rent.
Painted Storks Transport

@ near Anah Rd, off NH11.
Between July and October, the trees become
nesting sites for nearly 5,000 pairs of these birds
named after their colourful beaks and plumage
which is “painted” with black bands.
Jatoli Agra
0 kilometres 1 Turtle
0 miles 1 Other species thriving here include turtles, otters,
foxes and reptiles such as the rock python.
Nilgai (Blue Bull)

The largest of all Asiatic
antelopes, these avid
crop grazers are protected
against hunting because of
Ghasola their resemblance to the
Kadam holy cow. Their broad backs
Kunj offer comfortable resting
Keoladeo places for birds.
Temple
Man
Sarovar
Python
point
Hans White-throated Kingfisher
Sarovar
One of the most commonly sighted
birds in the park, the vividly-
coloured kingfisher is usually
found near the ponds, lakes
and marshlands, perched
on branches of trees,
waiting for its prey.
Koladahar
Bahnera
l
na
Barpur Ca
na
ksa
Chi
Naswaria
Nesting
Darapur With the arrival of the
monsoon (late June),
thousands of birds set up
nesting colonies. As many as 60
noisy nests on one tree may be
seen during this season.
9 Fatehpur Sikri
Built by Mughal Emperor Akbar in 1571 in honour of the
famous Sufi saint, Salim Chishti, Fatehpur Sikri was the
Mughal capital for 14 years. An example of a Mughal
walled city with defined private and public areas and
imposing gateways, its architecture, a blend of Hindu
and Islamic styles, reflects Akbar’s secular vision as well
Pillar in the Diwan-i-Khas
as his style of governance. After the city was abandoned, The central axis of Akbar’s court,
some say for lack of water, many of its treasures were supported by carved brackets,
plundered. It owes its present state of preservation to was inspired by Gujarat buildings.
the initial efforts of Lord Curzon (see p61), a legendary
conservationist.
Jami Masjid
Khwabgah
The emperor’s private
sleeping quarters, this
“chamber of dreams”
with murals and Persian
calligraphy has an
ingenious ventilating
shaft near his bed.
Entrance
. Turkish Sultana’s House

The elaborate dado panels and
delicately sculpted walls of this
ornate sandstone pavilion make Diwan-i-Aam
the stone seem like wood. It is This large courtyard with an elaborate pavilion was originally
topped with an unusual stone draped with rich tapestries and used for public hearings,
roof with imitation clay tiles. receptions and celebrations.
FAT E H P U R S I K R I 175
. Panch Mahal VISITORS’ CHECKLIST

A five-storeyed open
sandstone pavilion, it Practical Information
overlooks the Pachisi Agra district. 37 km (23 miles)
Court, where Akbar’s W of Agra. Road map D3.
queens savoured the n UPTDC, 64 Taj Rd, Agra,
cool evening breezes. (0562) 222 6431. Open 7am–
Its decorative screens 7pm daily. & 8 =
were probably
stolen after the city
was abandoned.
Jodha Bai’s Birbal’s

Palace House
. Diwan-i-Khas
Perhaps a debating
chamber, the real
function of this unique
structure is still unknown.
Ankh Michauli
Sometimes identified as the treasury,
this building has mythical guardian
beasts carved on its stone struts. Its
name means “blind man’s buff”.
Plan of Fatehpur Sikri

Fatehpur Sikri’s royal complex
contains the private and public
spaces of Akbar’s court, which
included the harem and the
KEY treasury. The adjoining sacred
complex containing the Jami
1 Abdar Khana Masjid, Salim Chishti’s tomb
2 Anoop Talao or pool is and the Buland Darwaza, are
associated with Akbar’s legendary separated from the royal quarters
court musician Tansen who, it is by the Badshahi Darwaza, an
said, could light oil lamps with exclusive royal gateway.
the magic of his voice.
3 Haram Sara complex Key
4 Maryam’s House Area illustrated above
5 Pachisi Court is named after Other buildings
a ludo-like game played here by
Sacred complex (Jami Masjid)
the ladies of the harem.
Exploring Fatehpur Sikri

The principal buildings of the imperial palace complex,
clustered on a series of terraces along the sandstone
ridge, formed the core of Akbar’s city. Stylistically, they
marked the absorption of Gujarat into the Mughal Empire
and reveal a successful synthesis of pre-Islamic, Hindu and
Jain architecture (as in the carved brackets) with the elegant
domes and arches of Islamic buildings. The concentric
terraces clearly divide the public spaces from the private
royal quarters. The buildings, mostly in Akbar’s favourite red
sandstone, were quarried from the ridge on which they stand.
Stone “tusks” at the Hiran Minar, a
memorial to Akbar’s favourite elephant
of Jodha Bai’s palace, has

spectacular carving on the
exterior and interior of its
unusual layout. Beyond this lies
a large colonnaded enclosure
surrounded by cells, meant
probably for the servants of
the harem, and the royal stables.
The Hathi Pol and Sangin
Burj, the original gateways
to the harem, lead to the
outermost periphery of the
palace complex. This was laid
out in concentric circles around
the inner citadel and is made
up of ancillary structures, such
Aerial view of Fatehpur Sikri as the caravanserais, the domed
hamams and waterworks.
Even today, the access to the the Diwan-i-Khas is the Pachisi The Hiran Minar (“deer tower”),
city that was Akbar’s capital is Court, named after the central believed to be a memorial to
provided by a straight road open space that resembles Akbar’s favourite elephant,
he built, then lined with exotic the board game of pachisi, was probably an akash deep
bazaars. It leads visitors through similar to ludo. (“heavenly light”) with lamps
the Agra Gate to the triple- The Haram Sara, or harem suspended from stone “tusks”
arched Naubat Khana, where complex, was a maze of to guide visitors.
the emperor’s entry used to be interconnected buildings
announced by a roll of drums. beyond Maryam’s House
The imperial palace complex is or Sunehra Makan (“golden
entered from the west through house”), named after its rich
the Naubat Khana and opens frescoes and gilding. The
into the spacious cloistered massive and austere exterior
courtyard of the Diwan-i-Aam, of the harem leads to Jodha
where Akbar gave public audiences. Bai’s Palace, a large inner
A passage behind it leads into courtyard, surrounded by
the so-called “inner citadel” pavilions decorated with
which contains the Diwan-i-Khas, azure glazed tiles on the
Khwabgah and Anoop Talao, roof. A screened viaduct,
along with the the treasuries and presumably for privacy,
the Abdar Khana where water connected the palace to
and fruit for the royal household the Hawa Mahal facing a
were stored. It also contains small formal garden. The
the curiously named Turkish Nagina Masjid, adjoining
Sultana’s House. Though the garden, was the royal
probably built for one of ladies’ private mosque.
Akbar’s wives, the identity of The two-storeyed pavilion
the “Turkish Sultana” is unclear. popularly said to be Birbal’s
The great courtyard in front of House, situated to the east Entrance to Birbal’s House
FAT E H P U R S I K R I 177
Jami Masjid
This grand open mosque towers over the city
of Fatehpur Sikri and was the model for several
Mughal mosques. Flanked by arched cloisters,
its vast namazgah has monumental gates to the
east and south. However, the spiritual focus of
the complex is the tomb and hermitage of the
Sufi mystic, Salim Chishti, as popular today as
it was in the days of its Mughal patrons.
Tomb of Sheikh Salim Chishti
Exquisite marble serpentine brackets and
almost transparent screens surround the
inner tomb which has a mother-of-pearl
canopy inlaid with sandalwood.
Badshahi Darwaza
Akbar used the
steep steps of this
royal gateway to
enter the complex.
Hujra The view of the
Symmetrically flanking the main mosque, this pair sacred mosque,
of identical cloistered prayer rooms has flat-roofed directly across,
pillared galleries that run round the complex. greeted his entry.
Corridors
Making a Wish in Chishti’s Tomb

Ever since Akbar’s childlessness was ended by the remarkable
prediction of Salim Chishti in 1568, the saint’s tomb has become
the haunt of those in search of a
miracle. The dargah, lavishly endowed
by both Akbar and his son Jahangir,
Buland Darwaza attracts crowds of supplicants who
Erected by Akbar, the huge 54 m make a wish, tie a small cotton thread
(177 ft) gateway later inspired on the screen around the tomb, and
other lofty gates. Young boys go back confident that the saint will A thread tied to a screen in
dive from its ramparts into the make it come true. Chishti’s tomb
pool below to fish for coins.
The strikingly ornamental façade of Gwalior Fort
w Gwalior tile patterns, is considered the most E Archaeological Museum

remarkable example of an early Open 10am–5pm Sat–Thu.
Gwalior district. 118km (73 miles) Closed Fri & public hols. &
S of Agra on NH3. Road map D4. Hindu palace. In the city below
* 1,100,000. n Tansen Residency, the fort, the 19th-century Italian T Jai Vilas Palace
6-A, MG Rd, (0751) 223 4557. @ @ palazzo-style Jai Vilas Palace S of Fort. Open 10am–5pm Tue–Sun.
_ Tansen Music Festival (Oct–Nov). houses the Scindia Museum. Closed Wed & public hols. & ^
Famous for a magnificent crystal
This royal seat of the Scindias staircase and furniture, its vast
is dominated by the massive Durbar Hall has Venetian
Gwalior Fort. The chandeliers that weigh
interior owes some of its three tons. A silver model
finest features to the train, laden with brandy
Tomar musician-king, and cigars, once used
Man Singh (r. 1486– to serve guests at the
1517). Near the ornate spectacular royal feasts
Hindola Gate, one of held here.
three gateways located Other notable sights The Datia Palace, built in 1620, displays
near the old city, is the are the tombs of Tansen fine architectural complexity
romantic Gujari Mahal and Muhammad Ghaus,
(1510) built by Man Frieze in as well as early temples e Datia
Singh for his tribal wife, Gwalior fort such as Teli ka Mandir Datia district. 187 km (116 miles)
the beautiful (see p30) and the Sas- S of Agra. Road map D4.
Mrignayani. It now houses the Bahu ka Mandir. * 90,600. n UPTDC, Hotel
outstanding Archaeological Veerangana, Shivpuri Rd, Jhansi,
Museum. His main palace, the T Gwalior Fort (0517) 244 2402. @
Man Mandir, with an amazing Open 8am–6pm daily. Son et Lumière:
variety of ornamental glazed 8:30pm daily. & The main focus of this ghostly
town is the five-storeyed Datia
Palace, an outstanding building
Gwalior Gharana of Music of great structural complexity.
The Gwalior Gharana is one Built by the Bundela king Bir
of the oldest schools of North Singh Deo in 1620, its sinister
Indian classical music. Its greatest underground chambers still
achievement was the adaptation exude an eerie ambience.
of folk music into the orthodox The finely painted royal
Dhrupad mode, a contribution of apartments within the main
Raja Man Singh and Mrignayani,
courtyard are connected to
whose tribal music wove a spell
on the king. This form was given the galleries around them by
lively expression by Gwalior-born double-storeyed bridges.
Tansen, Akbar’s court musician, Another important historic
who developed a range of lyrical building is the later Rajgarh
Akbar, Tansen and Guru Ramdas new ragas (see p34). Palace, which offers a panoramic
view of the entire walled town.
AGRA AND AROUND 179
r A Tour of Bundelkhand
Gwalior and the adjoining region of Bundelkhand, named
after the Bundela Rajputs, make up a culturally distinctive
area in Central India. Innumerable forts and monuments,
situated in a boulder-strewn landscape of great beauty,
still echo with stories of the valour and pageantry of the
Bundela Rajput courts, and warriors such as the Rani of
Jhansi. The area’s glorious history and refined cultural
traditions are reflected in the architectural treasures of
1 Gwalior The capital city
Gwalior, the magical, medieval town of Orchha, and the
of many great dynasties
hilltop temples of Sonagiri. since its origins in the 1st
century AD, Gwalior is the
most splendid of the
2 Pawaya Agra
“gateways” to the
The remains of an Bundelkhand region.
ancient fort can be
seen in this capital
of the Nag kings (3rd
century AD) from the 3 Sonagiri
highway at Dabra. This impeccably
maintained complex
of 77 Jain temples
is approached
through a thriving
Dabra nd pilgrim settlement.
Si
4 Datia
This erstwhile Bundela
capital surrounded
by numerous small
lakes, has scenically Bundelkhand
located palaces
on hillocks.
a
tw
Be
Key
Tour route
Other roads Lalitpur
Rivers 5 Jhansi
The town is best
known for its impressive
0 kilometres 20
fort and the heroic Rani
6 Orchha Laxmi Bai, who died
0 miles 10 leading her troops in
The temples, cenotaphs and
tiered palaces here are perfect the 1857 Indian Mutiny.
Tips for Drivers examples of Bundelkhand
architecture (see pp180–81).
Length: 120 km (75 miles).
Stopping-off points: Gwalior,
Sonagiri, Datia, Jhansi, Taragram,
Orchha. After Gwalior, there is a 7 Taragram
petrol pump at Dabra on NH3. Its fascinating
Accommodation in the form handmade paper
of state tourism hotel and factory is an
guesthouses is available at interesting
Gwalior, Jhansi and Orchha. experimental
Local buses run between centre aimed at
the major stops. upgrading local
craftsmanship.
Jahangiri Mahal
Named after the Mughal emperor Jahangir, who spent
one night here with his Bundela ally Bir Singh Deo, this
is an excellent example of Rajput Bundela architecture.
The many-layered palace has 132 chambers off and above the
central courtyard and an almost equal number of subterranean
rooms. The square sandstone palace is extravagantly embellished
with lapis lazuli tiles, graceful chhatris and ornate jaali screens.
The palace also has a modest museum.
The 16th-century Chaturbhuj Temple

at Orchha Chhatris
These give a delicate and airy feel
r Orchha to the roofline of the palace.
Tikamgarh district. 238 km (148 miles)
S of Agra. Road map E5. n MPTDC,
Sheesh Mahal; (07680) 252 624.
_ Ramnavami (Mar–Apr),
Dussehra (Sep–Oct).
Orchha is dramatically positioned

on a rocky island, enclosed by a
loop of the River Betwa. Founded
in 1531, it was the capital of the
Bundela kings until 1783, when
it was abandoned in favour
of Tikamgarh.
Crumbling palaces, pavilions,
hamams, walls and gates,
connected to the town with an
impressive 14-arched causeway,
are all that remain today. Three
main palaces, Raj Mahal (1591),
Jahangiri Mahal (1598) and
Rai Praveen Mahal are massed
symmetrically together. Rai
Praveen Mahal was named
after a royal paramour and
Jahangiri Mahal after the
Mughal prince who spent
a mere night here.
There are three beautiful
temples in the old town, the
Ram Raja, the Chaturbhuj and
the Laxminarayan. A unique
blend of fort and temple styles,
the Chaturbhuj Temple,
dedicated to Vishnu, has huge
arcaded halls for massed
singing and a soaring spire
towering over the area.
Lying along the Kanchana Ghat
of the Betwa are 14 hauntingly
beautiful chhatris of the Orchha Entrance
rulers. Along with the many sati
pillars in Jahangiri Mahal’s
museum, these are reminders . Entrance Gateway
of Orchha’s feudal past when The impressively fringed entry gate,
sati queens jumped into their flanked by stone elephants, offers a
husband’s funeral pyres. good view of River Betwa.
AGRA AND AROUND 181
Palace Complex.
Open 8am–6pm daily.
Closed public hols. n MPTDC,
Sheesh Mahal. & 8 0 m
Museum: Open 10am–5pm.
. Screened Corridor
A screened corridor runs round the fourth level
which has eight pavilions with lavishly painted
interiors, separated by courts.
Glazed Tilework
Geometric lapis motifs
decorate the outer
façade at the
upper levels.
Plan of Orchha
The fortified town of Orchha
encloses three major palaces
and ruined ancillary structures.
KEY
1 Jahangiri Mahal 3
1 Carved niches line the
outer walls. 2 Sheesh Mahal
3 Raj Mahal
2 Jahangir’s bedroom 2
4 Rai Praveen Mahal 1
3 Fortified bastions protect
5 Hamam 6
the palace.
6 Stable
4 The central courtyard can be 5
viewed from each part of the palace Key 4
and has a small museum in a set of
rooms that run along it. Area illustrated above
JAIPUR AND ENVIRONS

The Jaipur region of Rajasthan lies on the eastern fringes of
the Thar Desert, a semi-arid land cut southwest to northeast by
the craggy Aravalli Hills. Studded with hilltop and jungle forts,
the region offers valleys and plains that glitter with palaces
and pavilions, pleasure gardens and temples. Once ruled
by proud Rajput princes, this territory is still sustained by
memories of a feudal past that is kept alive by its splendid
architectural remains and deep-rooted traditional culture.
At the end of the 11th century, the alliances paved the way for peace
Kachhawahas of Jaipur established their in the region. The result was a cultural
kingdom at Amber. In the region around it and social synthesis which produced
lay other Rajput kingdoms – the Chauhan some outstanding art and architecture.
stronghold of Ajmer that would soon fall The British also followed this policy of
to Muslim forces, and the massive Rathore appeasement and offered the princes
jungle fort of Ranthambhore, which would military protection in return for their
later become a Mughal preserve. By the loyalty. The rule of the princely states
18th century the fierce feudal lords of ended when, after Independence, they
Shekhawati would become vassals of were incorporated into the modern
Amber-Jaipur, while Jat kings would rule Indian state of Rajasthan, with Jaipur
over Bharatpur, the only non-Rajput as the administrative capital.
kingdom in the area. But despite democracy, the Rajput
The early Rajput states engaged in feudal tradition, with its code of loyalty
bitter internecine clan wars, but with to the local chieftain, and immense pride
the rise of the Delhi sultans (see pp54–5), in their past, remains alive. This is perhaps
their energies were directed at keeping what has preserved the extraordinary
their lands safe from the marauding culture of the region, so that for many
Muslim troops. Finally, under the Mughal it still remains the romantic land of forts,
emperor Akbar, military and matrimonial palaces and kings it was in medieval times.
Devotees at the sacred ghats of Pushkar

Women in bright saris by the Hawa Mahal, or “Palace of the Winds”, Jaipur
Exploring Jaipur and Environs

This historically rich territory is centred around the old
capital of Amber and the “newer” city of Jaipur with its
palace, observatory, temples and bazaars and impressive
modern buildings. To Jaipur’s north are the attractive
Samode palace and Shekhawati areas, while to its
northeast is the wooded area of the Aravallis, where Chirawa
Alwar, a former princely state, and the Sariska National Churu
Lutu Bagar
Park are situated. To the southwest, past the textile
towns of Sanganer and Bagru, are the religious Jhunjhunu
Bikaner
sites of Ajmer and Pushkar. Southeast of Jaipur Mandawa
Dumru Khetri
lies Chaksu, a pilgrim centre, and Tonk, once the Fatehpur
SH
site of a powerful medieval kingdom, beyond Dundlodh
EK OUR
Maonda
which is the spectacular tiger sanctuary of Tarla
T
HA
Ranthambhore, nestling beneath the grand Lachhmangarh
Nawalgarh
WA
ramparts of a historic medieval fort. Udaipur
TI
Nim Ka
Thana
Sikar
Khandela
Thoi
Bosana
Palsana Ringas
RAJASTHAN
SAMODE
Ramgarh
CHOMU
Kuchaman
Bheslana
MAKRANA
SAMBHAR JAIPUR
SALT LAKE Phulera
A roadside tea stall
BAGRU
Roopangarh SANGANER
Dudu
Key KISHANGARH
Phagi
Highway Sewa
Major road
AJMER Nimera
Minor road PUSHKAR Arain Banwara
Railroad Ganor
Kaser
State border
Nasirabad Malpura
Junia
TONK
Bandanwara
0 kilometres 25 Beawar Sarwar Toda Raisingh
Kekri
0 miles 25
Udaipur
Nagar
Devli
Kota
Pushkar’s spectacular cattle fair in progress

JAIPUR AND ENVIRONS 185
Getting Around
Jaipur’s airport is at Sanganer (see p286), and two
superfast trains (the Pink City Express and Shatabdi
Express) connect the city to Delhi. Air-conditioned luxury
coaches from Delhi to Jaipur are run by Rajasthan Tourism
(see p291). The rest of the region is best explored by road.
The Palace on Wheels and Royal Rajasthan on Wheels
(see p289) offer luxury rail tours for well-heeled tourists who
wish to savour the trip through the desert in royal comfort.
Delhi
Narnaul
Tijara
Bahror
A sacred tank at Galta
Kishangarh
Jindoli
Kot Putli
Bansur
Pragpura
ALWAR
SILISERH
BAIRAT Milakpur
Malakhera
Shahpura Mathura
Sariska
SARISKA NP
Partabgarh
RAJGARH
BHANGARH
Agra
Mahwa
AMBER Maota Lake in front of Amber Palace
Ramgarh Dausa Sakrai
Basi
Toda Bhim
Sights at a Glance
Gurha
Tunga 1 Jaipur (see pp186–203)
Nandauti Hindaun 2 Amber (see pp204–7)

Bari 3 Sanganer
CHAKSU 4 Bagru
Lalsot
5 Alwar (see pp210–11)
Gangapur
Hingonia
Mandaori
Karauli 6 Siliserh
7 Rajgarh
Nawai 8 Sariska National Park
Bonli
(see pp214–15)
RANTHAMBHORE Sapotra 9 Bairat
NATIONAL PARK 0 Bhangarh
Jhonpra Khandhar q Chomu
SAWAI w Samode
MADHOPUR
r Sambhar Salt Lake
Uniara t Makrana
Behraonda
y Kishangarh
u Pushkar (see pp220–21)
i Ajmer (see pp222–5)
INDERGARH o Chaksu
p Tonk
a Sawai Madhopur
(see pp228–9)
d Indergarh
Tours
Printed textiles drying in the sun at Sanganer e Shekhawati

1 Jaipur
A labyrinth of fascinating bazaars, opulent
palaces and historic sights, Jaipur offers a
chance to see the medieval alongside the
modern. On its colourful streets, camels jostle
for space with motorbikes, and turbaned village
elders rub shoulders with youngsters in jeans.
Often called the Pink City because its
prominent buildings are washed with this
colour, Jaipur’s old walled area has the City
Govind Dev Temple, dedicated to Krishna
Palace Museum, a medieval astronomical
observatory, and bazaars that sell everything from precious channels and fountains. Towards
jewellery to camel skin shoes. Recent additions include a the north of the sight is Badal
multi-arts centre, yet the city’s focal point is still the myriad- Mahal, a five-arched hunting
windowed pink Hawa Mahal, the Palace of Winds. pavilion on the banks of the
Talkatora. Its ceilings still bear
faint traces of the cloud
(badal) patterns.
E City Palace Museum to him. Jai Singh then moved JH
O
ROTW
See pp192–5. to the Chandra Mahal, at the AD A AR
A RO D A
R
ND
opposite end of the garden, N T ICH
A
CHAND
KA POLE
 Govind Dev Temple and installed the image as the VI
PA J A
THY
CO L L E C T O R
Jaleb Chowk, behind City Palace. guardian deity of Jaipur’s Inter-state
RD
Bus Terminal
ROAD
Open 5–11am, 6–8pm daily. rulers. Devotees
A
R
D
N
_ Holi (Mar), Janmashtami are allowed only N R
OA
D
A
VA M
H
AT E
TIO C
S TA
NA AR
(Jul–Aug), Annakut (Oct–Nov). a brief glimpse of Jaipur Railway S AR

SA G
N
SA
TH
Station
The presiding deity of this their god seven
I L
unusual temple is the flute- times a day, GOP

I NA
TH
MA
playing Krishna (also known and on special MIR
ZA I RG
SMA
as Govind Dev). This image, festivals such I L RO
A D
R OAD
originally from the Govindeoji as Janmashtami AJM
ER
RG
RO AN
Temple in Brindavan (see p166), (see p43). A
M
AD
M
AL
was brought to Amber in the AJMER L

TE
VI
DAHAG
YA
PA
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MA
late 17th century to save it

S
R
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RG
from the iconoclastic zeal of Niwas Bagh ITH

RD
VI SARO J I N I
SA
M
RD
RA
Aurangzeb. It is believed that Open 6am– J R
A
IR
OA
RG
AV
this temple was once a garden 10pm daily. D

AH
Raj Mahal
M
S TAT U E
pavilion called Suraj Mahal, Just behind the Palace
EL
CIRCLE
H O SP
ITA L
R G PAT
where Sawai Jai Singh II lived temple is the

G
AR
MA AR
RD
while his dream-city Jaipur was 18th-century Jai Niwas

M
RD
K
LA
S
SA
being built. Legend has it that Bagh, planned as a

DA
TI
YU Central Park
one night, the king awoke from private leisure ground D
AN
BH MA HIST
AW RG IR
his sleep to find himself in for the ladies of the
W
A
M NI S
AG
the presence of Krishna who royal household. Inspired AR IN

G GH
BH
demanded that his devasthan by the classic Mughal charbagh, AMBEDKAR

(“divine residence”) be returned it has features such as water CIRCLE
Government Rambagh
House Palace Hotel
Sanganer Airport
15km (9 miles)
SANGANER
Sights at a Glance
1 City Palace Museum
2 Govind Dev Temple
3 Jai Niwas Bagh
4 Talkatora
5 Chaugan Stadium
6 Tripolia Bazaar
7 Jantar Mantar
8 Hawa Mahal
A view of the walled city of Jaipur 9 Govt Central Museum
JAIPUR 187
Y Talkatora later filled in and developed VISITORS’ CHECKLIST

N of Jai Niwas Bagh. Open daily. s as a residential area.
The Talkatora is an artificial Practical Information
tank that existed before Jaipur  Chaugan Stadium 261 km (162 miles) from Delhi
was built. This may have been Brahmpuri: Open 5am–8pm daily. on NH8. * 3,073,500. n RTDC,
one of the reasons why this This large open area near the Swagatam Complex (0141) 220
site was chosen for the new City Palace derives its name 0595. Rajasthan Tourism, MI Rd,
city. When excavated, it was from chaugan, an ancient Persian (0141) 511 0598. ( Mon–Sat.
_ Kite Flying (mid-Jan), Elephant
surrounded on three sides by form of polo played with a curved
Festival (Feb–Mar), Gangaur
a lake known as Rajamal ka stick. In the past, this area was
(Mar–Apr), Teej (Jul–Aug).
Talab, making it look like a used for festival processions,
talkatora, literally a “bowl in wrestling matches, as well as Transport
a lake”. Sawai Jai Singh II was elephant and lion fights. The k Sanganer. £ @ Sindhi Camp.
particularly fond of this rather
Jal Mahal,
secluded spot and used GAITOR
to breed crocodiles here. Jaigarh &
Amber Fort
maharajas and nobility watched
The original lake was from the pavilions of Chini ki Burj
RAMGARH (which still retains some of the
Chaugan old blue and white tilework),
Stadium Talkatora
Joriwar Moti Burj, Chatar ki Burj and
Jai Niwas Singh Gate
Shyam ki Burj, all located here.
R A S LO N
Bagh
AAR
TA
WA
Chaugan is not played any more,

RAS NSHI
AZ
ROO
TA
but the stadium is the venue for

RI B
MU
Govind Dev MOT

KA
I KA
BAG
Temple T RA
AAR
GAU
the famous Elephant Festival

LAL
BAZ
AAR
KA
City Palace
BAZ
GAN
JAI
CH
Museum held at the time of Holi (see p42).
AN
HAL
DPO
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TA
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AZ AAR Hawa THE
A
RAS
Mantar
AS R
A M
Mahal
PINK CITY
LO N
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HAW
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TRIP
JI K
OLI
K A E WA
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Jami GAN
POL
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Masjid Z
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BAZ
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BAZ
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BAZ
ARI
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B A ZH R U
AJA
JOH
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Ajmeri BA
BAZ PU
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Gate AAR
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New
Gate
GHA
ASH Zoo (Birds) Sanganeri

OK Gate
MAR
G
Zoo (Mammals
& Reptiles)
Sisodia
Govt Central Rani ka Bagh,
Museum AGRA A mahout and his caparisoned elephant
Ram at a festival
Niwas
AD
Bagh
RO
ROA
D
D
RD
The Building of Jaipur

RI
ROA
GA
GH
ON
SMS
RU
Sawai Jai Singh II, a brilliant statesman, scholar

DO
Hospital
SIN
EH
L N
and patron of the arts, ruled for over 40

TI
MO
M
RLA
years and was awarded the

RA
AHA
I
Museum of title of “Sawai” (“one-and-a-quarter”),

A
W
JAW
Indology
SA
a metaphor for one who is extra-

NA
RA
IN S
INGH RD
ordinary, by Mughal emperor
Muhammad Shah when he was just
Jawahar Kala Kendra
& Moti Doongri Palace
11 years old. Along with Bengali scholar
and engineer, Vidyadhar Chakravarty,
Jai Singh supervised the building of a new
capital south of Amber and named
it Jaipur (“city of victory”). Work started
Sawai Jai Singh II
in 1727 and took six years to complete.
(r.1700–43)
Surrounded by a crenellated wall
0 metres 500 pierced by seven gates, Jaipur is one of
North India’s finest examples of a planned urban city. Its grid of nine
0 yards 500
rectangular sectors, believed to represent the nine cosmic divisions
of the universe, is actually based on a geometric and pragmatic
plan with a system of main streets, intersected by spacious market
Key
squares. Jai Singh encouraged traders and artists to settle here,
giving tax incentives to merchants to ensure economic prosperity.
Street-by-Street area

Street-by-Street: Around Badi Chaupar

The Badi Chaupar (“large square”) is at one end of the
colourful Tripolia Bazaar. There have been few changes
to the original 18th-century plan of streets and squares.
Narrow pedestrian lanes branch out of the main streets
where artisans fashion puppets, silver jewellery, and
other local crafts in tiny workshops. Behind are the
havelis of eminent citizens, some now used as schools,
shops and offices. The area is a hub of activity, rich
with pungent smells and vibrant colours, with temple
bells adding to the cacophony of street sounds. Gangaur Festival
A colourful procession of bullock carts
marks Gangaur festivities in spring.
Ishwar Lat City Palace

Ishwari Singh built
this tower in 1749
to commemorate
his victory over
his stepbrother,
Madho Singh I. . Jantar Mantar
Jai Singh II’s observatory
of astronomical instruments
looks like a set of futuristic Tripolia Gate
sculptures (see pp196–7).
I A
O L
R I P
T
M
A
N
IH
Chandpol
A
R
O
N
N
AT
Chhoti Chaupar
A
A
N
(“small square”)
R
IY
leads to Kishanpol
S
O
T
A
N
Bazaar, famous
for its shops
KA
K
selling rose-,
RA
I S
saffron-, almond-
ST
and vetiver-
H
A
A
flavoured sherbets.
N
P O
L
B
A
Z A
Maharaja Arts College

A
R
Flower Sellers Lac Bangles

Marigolds and other flowers made into Maniharon ka Rasta is
garlands sell briskly as offerings to beloved full of tiny workshops
deities in temples and roadside shrines. of lac bangle-makers.
JAIPUR 189
. Hawa Mahal
An unfamiliar rear view of the Hawa Mahal, seen
from the City Palace. . Johari Bazaar
Badi Chaupar Vegetable sellers sit at one end of this
street where the big gem dealers also
have their offices and shops.
Surajpol
JO
H
A
R
IB
A R A
Z
Z A A
B A A
R
C
H
A
U
R
A
ST
A
RA
R
A
KA
S
T
I
A
J
P AL
GO 0 metres 100
0 yards 100
Key
Tarkeshwar Suggested route

Temple
Jami Masjid
Tall minarets define the “Friday
Mosque”, its three storeys
fronted by arched screens.
Pottery Shop
Large terracotta urns, pots of all sizes, bells, statues,
foot-scrapers and oil lamps made by traditional
craftsmen are sold here.
P Hawa Mahal
Sireh Deori Bazaar. Tel (0141)
261 8862. Open 9am–5pm
daily. Closed Holi & public hols.
& 8 9 extra charges.
A whimsical addition to
Rajasthan’s rich architectural
vocabulary, the fanciful Hawa
Mahal or “Palace of Winds” was
erected in 1799 by the aesthete
Sawai Pratap Singh (r.1778–
1803). Its ornate façade has
become an icon for the city, a
tiered baroque-like composition Façade of Hawa Mahal
of projecting windows and
balconies with perforated P Tripolia Bazaar (slippers) and feather-light
screens. Though five storeys To the south of the City Palace cotton quilts. In the centre of
high it is just one room deep, is one of the walled city’s this lively commercial artery
with walls no thicker than 20 busiest streets and bazaars. stands the majestic Tripolia
cm (8 inches). Built of lime and The shops here mainly sell (“triple-arched”) Gate.
mortar and painted pink, this an enormous range of metal Constructed in 1734, this was
structure was so designed to goods and kitchenware. The once the main entrance to the
enable the purdahed ladies of pavements outside the shops palace and on festive occasions,
the harem to watch unnoticed attractively display utensils crowds watched the royal
the colourful street scenes and in brass, copper, entourage of
state processions on Sireh aluminium and the maharaja
Deori Bazaar below. Visitors steel as well and his nobles
are permitted to climb up as crowbars, (thakurs), clad
the winding ramp to the top. chisels and in ceremonial
Pratap Singh was a poet, other assorted robes, seated
composer and patron of the hardware. on elephants
arts. A devotee of Krishna, he Sometimes, and horses, pass
dedicated the Hawa Mahal to handicrafts, Detail of a painted gate through this
him, and many believe that plastic and impressive gate.
when seen from afar, the paper products, such as the Today, its use is confined to
building looks like the mukut traditional red cloth-bound members of the royal family and
(crown) that often adorns bahi khathas (account books) their special guests, and a guard
Lord Krishna’s head. still used by merchants and on duty reminds visitors that
A gateway towards the west moneylenders, are also laid this is not a public thoroughfare.
leads into the complex and to out. At Badi Chaupar, towards A short distance from Tripolia
the administrative offices and the end of the street, are Gate, towards the east, is the
the Archaeological Museum. flower-sellers with baskets full well-maintained Nawab Saheb
of fragrant roses, marigolds, ki Haveli, named after Nawab
E Archaeological Museum tuberoses and jasmine, and Faiz Ali Khan, Ram Singh II’s
Tripolia Bazaar. Open 9am–5:30pm. shops selling silver jewellery, (see p198) prime minister.
Closed Fri & public hols. & hand-embroidered jootis This 18th-century mansion was
once the residence of Vidyadhar
Chakravarty (see p187), who is
believed to have chosen this site
to supervise the building of the
new city of Jaipur. Its enclosed
terrace offers some marvellous
views of the city. Other havelis
of eminent citizens can be seen
in the narrow alleys off the main
street. Some of these gracious
old buildings are still occupied
by descendants of the original
owners, others have been
rented out to schools, shops
and offices.
P Nawab Saheb ki Haveli

A view of Tripolia Gate with Ishwari Singh’s victory tower seen in the distance Open 10am–6pm daily. &
JAIPUR 191
Jewellery
Be it the fabulous emeralds and rubies sported by former maharajas and their queens
or the splendid silver and bone ornaments worn by peasants, jewellery is an integral
part of Rajasthani culture. Even camels, horses and elephants are adorned with specially
designed anklets and necklaces. Jaipur is one of the largest ornament-making centres
in India, and meenakari (enamelling) and kundankari (inlaying) are two traditional
techniques for which it is most famous. In the 16th century, Man Singh I (see p53), influ-
enced by the prevailing fashions of the Mughal court, brought the first five Sikh enamel
workers from Lahore to his state. Since then, generations of highly skilled jewellers have
lived and worked here. Jaipur caters to every taste, from chunky silver ornaments to
elegant designs intricately set in gold with precious stones.
Sarpech, the cypress-

A jewelled trinket box shaped turban
with a kundankari ornament, was a
lid has the lower fashion statement
portion worked introduced by the
in fine meenakari Mughal emperors in
with traditional the early 17th century
floral patterns in to display their finest
red, blue, green gems. Rajput rulers,
and white. impressed by Mughal
flamboyance, sported
dazzling ornaments
like this piece of
enamelled gold
set with emeralds,
rubies, diamonds
and sapphires
with a pearl drop.
The skill of setting stones can be seen

in the crowded alleys of Haldiyon ka
Raasta, Jadiyon ka Raasta and Gopalji
ka Raasta. An inherited art, the trade of
jewellery is in the hands of artisans’ guilds.
Meenakari embellishes the obverse side of

kundan jewellery, for the Rajasthani love of
adornment decrees that even the non-visible
back of a piece of jewellery, which touches the
wearer’s skin, must be as beautiful as the front.
Jaipur is now a centre of

lapidary, specializing in
Kundankari uses a highly refined gold as the cutting of emeralds
the base, which is then inlaid with lac and and diamonds that come
set with precious and semi-precious stones from Africa, South
to provide the colour and design. Purified America, and parts of
gold wire outlines the design and also India. Gem-cutters learn their
conceals the lac background. skill by cutting garnets.
City Palace Museum

Occupying the heart of Jai Singh II’s city, the City Palace has
been home to the rulers of Jaipur since the first half of the
18th century. The sprawling complex is a superb blend of
Rajput and Mughal architecture, with open, airy Mughal-style
public buildings leading to private apartments. The opulence
and exquisite craftsmanship is a tribute both to the wealth of
the former maharajas and their lavish patronage of the arts.
Today, the complex is open to the public as the Maharaja
Sawai Man Singh II Museum, popularly known as the City
Palace Museum. The beautiful Chandra Mahal, once the
residence of the maharaja, is also open to visitors. . Pritam Chowk
The “Court of the Beloved”
has four delicately painted
doorways representing
the seasons.
Sileh Khana
The erstwhile armoury houses
the museum’s collection of
weapons, some lavishly
decorated, and is
considered among
the finest in India.
. Mubarak Mahal
This sandstone “Welcome Palace”
was built in 1900 by Madho Singh II
to receive guests, hence the name.
It is now the costume and textile gallery.
KEY . Rajendra Pol

Flanking the
1 Crafts demonstration area
gateway are two
2 Riddhi-Siddhi Pol large elephants,
3 Shops
each carved
from a single
4 Transport gallery block of marble.
5 Ticket counter
C I T Y PA L A C E M U S E U M 193
Chandra Mahal VISITORS’ CHECKLIST

Each floor
of this seven- Practical Information
storeyed palace is City Palace Complex. Tel (0141)
extravagantly 408 8888. Open 9am–5pm daily.
decorated and has Closed public hols. & (including
a specific name use of audio guide). 8 - =
according to its m Director’s permission needed
function. The top to see Ram Singh II’s Reserve
floor affords great Collection of photos.
city views.
. Silver Urns
Two giant silver urns in
the Diwan-i-Khas, listed in
the Guinness Book as the
largest silver vessels in the
world, carried sacred Ganges
water for Madho Singh II’s
visit to London in 1901.
Sabha Niwas
Sparkling glass mirrors embellished
with intricate designs are among the
many stunning features in the
Entrance Durbar Hall (audience hall).
The City Palace

8 9 1 Mubarak Mahal
10 2 Crafts Demonstration Area
7 6 5 3 Sileh Khana
11
3 4 4 Rajendra Pol
5 Diwan-i-Khas
2 1 6 Riddhi-Siddhi Pol Key
7 Pritam Chowk Building area
8 Chandra Mahal
9 Shops
10 Transport Gallery
0 metres 200
11 Sabha Niwas
(Durbar Hall) 0 yards 200
Exploring the City Palace Museum Shobha Niwas (House of Beauty),

which also has exquisite blue
The Maharaja Sawai Man Singh II Museum provides tiles and gold leaf. The fifth floor,
a splendid introduction to the arts and crafts and the Chhavi Niwas (Hall of Images), is
courtly pomp and ceremony of Jaipur in the old days. decorated with blue-and-white
painted floral designs and was
In their long reign, which spanned almost a thousand the maharaja’s retreat during
years, the Kachhawaha rulers amassed a fabulous collection the rainy season. Sri Niwas
of treasures – rare manuscripts, miniature paintings, carpets, (Shining Hall), the sixth floor,
textiles, costumes and weaponry, palanquins and chariots. offers mirrored ceilings and
These are some of the royal and historical memorabilia rows of double columns
through which there are
displayed here. Initially a private collection open only
magnificent views of the hills
to select visitors and dignitaries, in 1959 it was formally and city. Finally, the top-floor,
declared a state museum that is open to the public. Mukut Niwas (House of the
Crown), is an open marble
pavilion affording panoramic
views of the walled city.
Textiles and
Costumes Gallery
A glittering collection of textiles
and costumes from the royal
toshakhana (treasure house)
is displayed on the ground floor
of Mubarak Mahal. Also known
as the Welcome Palace, this was
a reception centre for visiting
dignitaries. On view here are
rich brocades, known as
kimkhabs, from Surat,
The palatial interior of the Chandra Mahal Aurangabad and Varanasi,
exquisitely embroidered and
The second floor, Suhk Niwas handloom-woven shawls from
Chandra Mahal (Hall of Pleasure), has an open Kashmir, embroidered silks,
The beautiful Chandra Mahal terrace. Possibly built in honour embossed velvets and light,
(Moon Palace) or Satkhana of Sawai Jai Singh’s beloved gossamer muslins typical of
Mahal (Seven Storied Palace) queen, Sukh Kanwar, it is Dhaka (today in Bangladesh),
is located in the north-west decorated with colourful floral which collectively represent
of the vast City Palace. It was designs and Mughal miniatures. India’s great textile tradition.
planned and built by Jaipur’s Rang Mandir (Temple of Colour), The expert and refined crafts-
chief architect Vidhyadhar the third floor, is embellished manship that existed in Jaipur
Chakravorty for Maharaja with mirrors in the walls, pillars almost three centuries ago is
Sawai Jai Singh II (see p187), and ceilings, as is the fourth floor, visible in the wide variety of
and was completed in 1734. hand-blockprinted textiles from
Each of the seven floors is nearby Sanganer and tie-and-
luxuriously decorated with dye (bandhini) pieces specially
paintings, floral decorations, produced by the printers and
tiling and mirrors. The ground dyers from the palace
and first floors of the palace workshops. Equally breathtaking
house the extensive art is the incredible range of well-
collection of the Maharaja preserved royal garments.
Sawai Man Singh II Museum. Dazzling gathered skirts and
Artworks include life-sized long, flowing veils (odhnis),
portraits of Jaipur rulers by decorated with delicate zari
the German artist AH Muller (gold thread embroidery) and
(1878–1952) and miniatures gota (gold or silver frill), worn
of the Rajasthani, Persian and by the ladies of the court, vie
Mughal schools. Enamelware, for attention with the brocaded
weaponry, carpets, and dresses robes, waistbands (patkas),
and costumes worn by former pyjamas and turbans that
royals of Jaipur complete One of the rare Mughal miniatures in the comprised the male attire.
the collection. Chandra Mahal The most striking of these
C I T Y PA L A C E M U S E U M 195
royal robes is the enormous maharajas for formal durbars

pale pink atamsukh (“comfort (royal courts), ceremonies and
of the soul”) of Sawai Madho receptions. The hall housed an
Singh I (r.1750–68), who was art gallery for many years, but a
2 m (7 ft) tall and 1.23 m conservation programme
(4 ft) in girth, and has restored its
weighed 230 kg former status and
(500 lbs)! This sparkling decor.
long, quilted Visitors now
cloak-like robe, have the sense
worn usually by of a real durbar
men in winter, is as it used to be
embossed with gold A tissue ghaghara, early when Sawai Man
work. There is also a 20th century Singh II, Jaipur’s last
rare gold-brocaded maharajah, would
velvet throne cover, bearing seal hold his public audiences here.
marks that date to 1605, and an The last durbar took place in
intricately woven gold and silk March 1949.
circular thal-posh (dish-cover). Entrance to the Sileh Khana arms gallery,
The lattice screens that flanked by field guns
run round the balcony here Arms Gallery
once enabled royal ladies This gallery, known as the engraved with hunting scenes,
and their retinues to watch Sileh Khana, is located near images of gods and goddesses,
the proceedings of the durbar the Mubarak Mahal. Some of or topped with the heads of
hall without being seen. the exhibits, displayed under exotic birds and animals.
exuberantly painted ceilings, Among the swords on display
are reputed to be the finest is one belonging to Raja Man
Sabha Niwas examples of weapons used Singh I (r.1590–1619)
(Durbar Hall) in medieval India and are weighing about 5 kg (11
Leading from the Mubarak a tribute to the Rajput lbs). Another, made by
Mahal is a magnificent gateway warrior’s worship of Abdullah Isfahani, bears
with a brass door that opens arms. Whether specially the emblem of the Shah
into a stately courtyard and commissioned, or of Persia. There are two
the fascinating Sabha Niwas acquired by the swords of Jahangir and
(Hall of Public Audience). maharajas, the weapons Shah Jahan and also
Also sometimes referred to in the royal armoury were Akbar’s gold-encrusted
as Diwan-e-Aam, it was built both lethal and exquisitely helmet, shaped like a
during the reign of Maharaja crafted. On view are turban. A fascinating
Sawai Pratap Singh (1778–1803), a range of swords, section displays
a period that saw great develop- daggers and katars, Diamond-studded gunpowder
ment in local architectural and a dual-edged blade dagger with pistols containers, some
building skills. with a grip handle, made of ivory,
The spacious, richly decorated which would have been worn others decorated with mother-
assembly hall is built on a raised hitched to the waistband. Some of-pearl inlay on shell.
platform supported by are of green or white jade and The gallery’s collection also
artistically dressed marble are carved, while others are contains such gut-wrenching
columns. It was used by the studded with jewels. Hilts are exhibits as a lotus-shaped steel
mace belonging to Jai Singh I.
When rammed into the enemy’s
stomach, it would spring into a
deadly fan of sharp spikes and
disembowel the victim.
Transport Gallery
A comparatively recent addition
is the Transport Gallery situated
near the Art Gallery. It exhibits
palanquins, chariots, ikkas,
buggies and carriages from
the old Buggi Khana which
fell into disuse after the motor
car became popular with
Fragment of a 16th-century Persian carpet the maharajas.
Jantar Mantar
Of the five observatories built by Sawai Jai Singh II,
the one in Jaipur is the largest and best preserved; the
others are in Delhi (see p81), Ujjain, Mathura and Varanasi.
A keen astronomer himself, Jai Singh was aware of the latest
astronomical studies in the world, and was most inspired
by the work of Mirza Ulugh Beg, the astronomer-king of
Samarkand. Built between 1728 and 1734, this observatory Narivalaya Yantra
resembles a giant sculptural composition of 16 instruments Inclined at 27°, these
and has been described as “the most realistic and logical represent the two hemi-
landscape in stone”. Some of the instruments are still used to spheres and are sundials
that calculate time by
forecast how hot the summer months will be, the expected following the solar cycle.
date of arrival, duration and intensity of the monsoon, and
the possibility of floods and famine.
Unnatansha Yantra
was used to determine
the positions of stars and
planets at any time of day
or night.
Laghu Samrat Yantra

This “small sundial” is constructed on
Latitude 27° North (Jaipur’s latitude)
and calculates Jaipur’s local time up
to an accuracy of 20 seconds.
City Palace
Museum
Entrance
Chakra Yantra
A brass tube passes through
the centre of two circular
metal instruments through
which the angle of stars and
planets from the equator can . Ram Yantra
be observed. Vertical columns support an equal number of horizontal slabs
in two identical stone structures that comprise this instrument.
The readings from these determine the celestial arc from
horizon to zenith, as well as the altitude of the sun.
JAIPUR 197
Chandni Chowk, outside City Palace.
Tel (0141) 261 0494. Open 9am–
5pm daily. Closed Holi & public
hols. & 8 9 extra charges.
m Son et Lumière: 6:30pm daily.
Jantar Mantar
The complex of stone and metal instruments was
repaired with the addition of marble inlay
by Madho Singh II in 1901.
. Samrat Yantra
Jai Singh believed that gigantic
instruments would give more
accurate results. This 27-m (90-ft)
high sundial forecasts the crop
prospects for the year.
Hawa Mahal
Rashivalaya Yantra
This is composed of 12 pieces, each of
which represents a sign of the zodiac and
so faces a different angle and constellation.
This unique yantra is still used by astrologers
to make accurate horoscopes.
. Jai Prakash Yantra

Two sunken hemispheres map out the heavens. This instrument is
believed by some historians to have been invented by Jai Singh
himself to verify the accuracy of all the others in the observatory.
South of the Walled City such as a map of India painted

on a grain of rice, a copy of
By the end of the 19th century, Jaipur had spread far Rajasthan’s oldest newspaper
beyond the boundaries established by Sawai Jai Singh II. (1856), and letters written, incred-
Much of the area outside the walled city was developed ibly, on a single strand of hair.
by the enlightened ruler, Sawai Ram Singh II (r.1835–80). P Moti Doongri
This able administrator also modernized the city by adding Jawaharlal Nehru Marg. Open 5am–
many civic amenities such as good roads, street lighting 1:30pm & 4:30–9:30pm daily.
and running water. As Jaipur expanded, it incorporated Moti Doongri owes its florid
the pleasure palaces and hunting lodges existing on exterior to Sawai Man Singh II,
who converted the old fort of
its outskirts. The still-gracious city we see today is
Shankargarh into a palace and
a harmonious blend of the old and the new. added turrets in the style of
a Scottish castle. In 1940 he
married the beautiful Princess
Gayatri Devi of Cooch Behar,
and this palace with its
modernized interior became
the venue for glittering parties
hosted by the glamorous
couple for their wide circle
of friends. After his death in
1970, the maharani, by then
The Indo-Saracenic-style Government Central Museum (Albert Hall) a Member of Parliament, lived
here for some years to keep in
E Government world’s largest Persian garden touch with her constituency.
Central Museum carpets (1632), is housed in The palace, a private property,
Ram Niwas Bagh. Tel (0141) 257 0099. the Durbar Hall. is perched on a low hillock,
Open 9:45am–5:15pm Sun–Tue. & with only its ramparts and the
9 extra charges. - m E Museum of Indology tall spire of an ancient Shiva
Designed by Sir Samuel Swinton Nilambara, Prachaya Vidya Path, temple visible from the road.
Jacob, Albert Hall or the 24 Gangwal Park, Malviya Nagar. At the foot of Moti Doongri
Government Central Museum Tel (0141) 260 7455. Open 10am– is the white marble Lakshmi
was commissioned by Sawai 5pm daily. & 8 ^ Narayan Temple. This generously
Ram Singh II to honour the visit The large mansion of the endowed building was erected
of Albert, the Prince of Wales, reputed scholar, Acharya RC in 1988 on a piece of land sold
in 1886. Swinton Jacob had Sharma “Vyakul”, is now home to by the Jaipur royal family for
perfected the Indo-Saracenic a privately owned museum that a token sum to the Birlas, a
style of architecture, a hybrid displays his unusual personal powerful industrial family.
form that combined modern collection. Among the exhibits Though the sale was disputed
European with traditional Indian are impressive displays of maps, and created a huge uproar
elements to create a highly coins, manuscripts, textiles and in the local press, the temple
ornamental style used for many jewellery, fossils, gems and is now a popular place
public buildings during the Raj. clocks. The museum’s charm, of worship, admired for
This grand multi-layered however, lies in its idiosyncrasies, its carvings.
building, with its domes,
parapets and balustrades, is
located in the centre of the
Ram Niwas Gardens. Its ground
floor displays decorative shields
and embossed salvers in Jaipur’s
famed metalware, life-sized
models of rural scenes, good
examples of Jaipur’s glazed
pottery, and even an Egyptian
mummy. The first floor has a fine
collection of Mughal and Rajput
miniature paintings. Other
items on display include wood
carvings, lacquer work, ivory
pieces, jewellery, textiles and
pottery objects. The museum’s
greatest treasure, one of the Lakshmi Narayan Temple, a white marble addition to the Pink City
in the history of Jaipur. Built

in 1739 for Sawai Jai Singh II’s
favourite queen, Chandra
Kumari Ranawatji, it was used
as a summer resort by the ladies
of the court. In 1821, it was then
declared the official home of
the British Resident in Jaipur.
However, the most glamorous
and memorable phase of its
colourful history dates to the
time when Man Singh II and
Gayatri Devi moved here from
Rambagh Palace in 1956.
The luxurious interior of Rambagh Palace Among the celebrities they
entertained were Prince Philip,
P Statue Circle royal playground with squash a polo player like Man Singh,
Bhagwan Das Rd. and tennis courts, a polo field and Jackie Kennedy.
This popular landmark is a and indoor swimming pool. In
traffic roundabout, circling 1933 it was selected as the
an imposing white marble official residence of Madho
statue of Sawai Jai Singh II, Singh’s adopted son and heir,
commissioned by the Sawai Man Singh II, who invited
Jai Singh Benevolent Trust. Hammonds of London
It was installed in 1968 to re-do the interiors,
and is now a lunch-hour adding a red and gold
recreation spot for Chinese room, black
office workers and marble bathrooms and Jawahar Kala Kendra, a centre that
for evening joggers. fabulous Lalique crystal promotes art and culture
Facing the statue to the chandeliers, fountains
left is the Birla and an illuminated E Jawahar Kala Kendra
Planetarium. The dining table. Jawaharlal Nehru Marg. Tel (0141) 270
complex comprises two Surrounded by 6560. Open 7am–10pm daily. - m
modern buildings: the fairy-tale gardens, Designed by Indian architect
science museum with this was the perfect Charles Correa in 1993, this
an auditorium, and the Statue of Sawai Jai setting for Man Singh remarkable building offers
planetarium. The main Singh II and his wife. Rambagh tribute to contemporary Indian
entrance of the building became the official design. Imaginatively patterned
is a replica of Amber Fort’s residence of the Head of State after the famous grid system of
Ganesh Pol (see p205). of the new Rajasthan Union in the city, each of the nine
Exhibitions and sales of 1949, and a hotel in 1957. squares or courts houses a
Rajasthani handicrafts mahal named after a planet.
are held here periodically. P Raj Mahal Palace Each mahal displays selected
Sardar Patel Marg. Tel (0141) 414 3000. exhibits of textiles, handicrafts
E Birla Planetarium 0 open to non-residents. and weaponry, while in the
Statue Circle, Prithviraj Rd. Now a grand heritage hotel, centre there is a grand open-
Open 11am–8pm daily. this 18th-century palace, less air plaza where performances
Tel (0141) 238 5094. & ^ opulent than the Rambagh of traditional Rajasthani music
Palace, occupies a special place and dance are also held.
P Rambagh Palace
Bhawani Singh Rd. Tel (0141) 221
1919. 0 open to non-residents. Polo – A Royal Game
The Rambagh Palace, now a Polo, said to be Central Asian in origin, was brought
splendid hotel (see p241), has to India by the Muslim conquerors. Its requirement
had a colourful past. From its of superior cavalry skills made it a popular sport
modest origins in 1835 as a among Rajput royalty and the army. Man Singh II
small, four-roomed garden was a dashing polo player and formed the
pavilion for Ram Singh II’s wet Jaipur polo team and club in the 1930s.
nurse, it was used as a hunting Ironically, he died in England in 1970,
lodge after she died in 1856. playing the game he loved so well.
Later, when Ram Singh II’s son, Jaipur is still a well-known venue, and
Madho Singh II, returned from distinguished visitors such as Prince A Jaipur polo
England, he transformed it with Philip and Prince Charles have played polo here. player in action
the help of Swinton Jacob into a
Beyond Jaipur: East of jasmine, where peacocks

dance amid the spray of
Enclosing a narrow valley, a parallel range of hills runs fountains and gurgling water
along Jaipur’s eastern periphery from Sanganer in the channels. The interiors are
south up to Amber and beyond. This combination of rocky decorated with lively murals
depicting episodes from
terrain and thickly wooded slopes provided an attractive Krishna’s life, hunting scenes
environment for the rulers and nobility who built temples, and polo matches, mythical
garden pavilions and palaces here for themselves. The area beasts and heroic events.
is also known for its wildlife, particularly monkeys, after Behind the gardens, temples
whom the valley is fittingly named the Valley of Monkeys. coated in the yellow wash
that is used throughout
the compound are open for
can purchase peanuts to worship at midday and in the
feed to the monkeys at the early evening. Not surprisingly,
temple gate, but should be this enchanting place has
prepared to be mobbed. become a popular set location
The macaques are bold and for Indian films.
aggressive, but the langurs
are not so persistent. Environs
Opposite Sisodia Rani ka Bagh
Y Sisodia Rani ka Bagh is Vidyadhar ka Bagh, a small
Purana Ghat. 6 km (4 miles) E of and beautiful 18th-century garden
Jaipur on Agra Rd. Tel (0141) 232 1534. laid out in the valley between
A sacred tank at Galta, whose waters Open 8am–5pm daily. Son et Lumière: two hills. Designed along the
are said to have healing powers 5–8pm (additional charge). & lines of a Mughal garden with
This terraced garden was laid fountains, shady trees and
P Galta out in the 18th century for flowerbeds, it is dedicated to
10 km (6 miles) E of Jaipur on Agra Rd. Sawai Jai Singh II’s second the courtier traditionally credited
The picturesque Galta gorge wife, a Sisodia princess from with designing Jaipur (see p187).
plunges down the hillside Udaipur. The marriage was one An evening visit to the renovated
to join the Jaipur–Agra road. of convenience, to foster better garden is particularly magical
A great sage, called Galav, is relations between the two because the bases of the
supposed to have lived and powerful princely states, and surrounding hills are lit up,
performed penance here. one of the conditions was that illuminating the garden
Deep within the gorge is Galta the new queen’s son would against the night sky.
Kund, an 18th-century religious succeed to the Jaipur throne.
site with two main temples To escape the ensuing and  Ghat ke Balaji
dedicated to Ram and Vishnu; inevitable palace intrigues, 6 km (4 miles) N of Sisodia
the Achariyon ki Haveli; and a the queen decided to shift Rani ka Bagh towards Galta.
number of smaller shrines and to a more private home Tel (0141) 268 0964.
now derelict buildings. High on outside the walled city. Behind Sisodia gardens, a double
the ridge is the Surya Temple. Her little double-storeyed flight of steps ends in a pair of
At different levels are sacred palace is surrounded by tall gateways leading to a small
tanks, fed throughout the year beautiful gardens artfully temple dedicated to the popular
by natural spring water flowing planted with fragrant bushes monkey-god Hanuman (also
from a rock resembling a cow’s
mouth. The water is said to
have curative powers. The two
baradaris on either side of
the complex have fairly well-
preserved frescoes depicting
legends from Krishna’s life,
including a ceiling profusely
painted with gorgeous lotus
blooms; others depict the
maharaja playing polo.
From the summit there are
spectacular views of Jaipur,
but do beware of monkeys in
search of food. More than 5,000
monkeys live here, attracting
tourists who watch them splash
about in the water tanks. Visitors Sisodia Rani ka Bagh, laid out as a formal Mughal charbagh
Elegant chhatris of deserted buildings lining the Ghat ki Guni road
known as Balaji). This endearing the Jaipur court created a tranquil Kachhawahas. It was built
deity is cherished by the local summer retreat in this valley, by the dynasty’s founder,
people who treat him with tender when the area would bustle with Duleh Rai (r.1093–1135),
care, and in winter wrap his image the constant coming and going after he defeated the local
in a muffler and quilt to keep him of aristocracy. Now, the deserted Meenas by attacking them
warm. The monkeys that inhabit havelis, temples and bathing ghats on a Diwali night when
the area are equally well looked are all that remain of this once they were forbidden to
after. Every evening at 4pm, a exclusive resort. On either side carry weapons.
charming ritual takes place when, of the road are dense rows of A lake created here in
to the call of the priests, hordes of niched façades perforated by tiny the 19th century was once
silver grey langurs with black faces windows and arched chhatris, Jaipur’s main source of
and long tails descend on the elegant eaves and domes, while drinking water but has
temple for a meal specially among the ruins and winding been dry for several years
cooked for them. Then, swishing alleys, a number of tea-stalls and due to insufficient rainfall.
their tails, they head back to the little shops selling trinkets and On its northern bank is
valley that bears their name. souvenirs have sprung up. Ramgarh Lodge, an elegant
hunting lodge built in 1931
P Ghat ki Guni P Ramgarh for the Jaipur royal family.
6 km (4 miles) E of Jaipur on Agra Rd. 40 km (25 miles) E of Jaipur. It is now a pleasing heritage
In the 18th and 19th centuries Ramgarh is the site of one of hotel and makes a relaxing
the ministers and dignitaries of the earliest fortresses of the retreat from Jaipur.
Hanuman – The Monkey God

A much loved figure in the pantheon of Hindu gods (see pp28–9),
Hanuman appears wherever Rama is worshipped. In the Ramayana
(see p41), this loyal trooper and his monkey army play a crucial role
in the defeat of Ravana and the rescue of Sita. To this day, warriors,
acrobats and wrestlers regard him as their patron deity. The cult
of Hanuman as a martial god and protector is so widespread that
even a simple stone daubed with orange vermilion paste (sindur)
signals his presence.
Yet, he has another more loveable side which widens the circle
of his devotees. They believe this fearless warrior, who set Lanka afire
and decimated Ravana’s army, is ignorant of his own miraculous powers.
Not only can he cure disease and exorcise evil spirits; he can cure infertility
because his celibacy gives him that power. Others believe he also knows
the secrets of yoga and the finer points of music and Sanskrit grammar. By
combining the might of a martial god with the endearing qualities of the
Hanuman statue monkey he resembles, Hanuman becomes a link between
warrior princes and simple peasants.
Beyond Jaipur: North Nahar Singh. Fortunately, this

haveli has survived the ravages
Towering above Jaipur are the two dramatic fortresses of time and is partly occupied.
of Nahargarh and Jaigarh that guard the approach from A portion is now a protected
the north to both Amber and the new capital of Jaipur. monument to preserve the
superb frescoes decorating
Today, they recall a bygone age when warrior clans fought the walls and ceilings of the
for supremacy. The surrounding rocky terrain also has the living rooms. These lively
remains of fortified walls, temples and shrines, havelis and paintings depict gods and
the ornate marble cenotaphs of the Kachhawaha kings. goddesses, courtly scenes
and festival processions. One
also portrays life on the different
P Nahargarh which the ladies of the court floors of the seven-storeyed
9 km (5 miles) NW of Jaipur on could view the city. Its walls Chandra Mahal (see pp192–3).
Amber Rd. Tel (0141) 513 4038. and pillars are an outstanding
Open 10am–5:30pm daily. example of arayish, a plaster- P Gaitor
Closed public hols. & - m work technique that is hand- Brahmpuri. Open 10am–5:30pm
The forbidding hill-top fort of polished with a piece of agate Mon–Sat. Closed Sun & public hols.
Nahargarh (“tiger fort”) stands to produce a marble finish. The marble cenotaphs of the
in what was once a densely Kachhawaha kings are
forested area. The fierce Meena P Pundarik ki Haveli enclosed in a walled
tribe ruled this region until Shastri Chowk, Brahmpuri. garden just below
they were defeated by the Tel (0141) 513 4038. Nahargarh Fort.
Kachhawahas. Legend says Open 8am–5pm daily. Sawai Jai Singh II
that this was the site of the m^ chose this to
cenotaph of Nahar Singh, Lying to the east be the new
a martyred Rathore warrior, of Nahargarh, on cremation site
and when Sawai Jai Singh II the way to Gaitor, after Amber
ordered that its fortifications is the Brahmpuri was abandoned
be strengthened to defend the area where the (see p207).
newly-built Jaipur, the warrior’s grand havelis of Ornate, carved
spirit resisted all construction the pundits and Maharani ki Chhatri pillars support the
until a priest performed tantric scholars of the marble chhatris
rites. Successive rulers further Jaipur court once stood. erected over the platforms
expanded the fort. Madho Singh One mansion was the residence where the maharajas were
II added a lavish palace called of Pandit Ratnakar Pundarik, cremated. One of the most
Madhavendra Bhavan for his a Brahmin courtier during the impressive cenotaphs is that
nine queens. Laid out in a maze reign of Sawai Jai Singh II who, of Jai Singh II himself. It has
of terraces and courtyards, it has it is said, conducted the puja 20 marble pillars, carved with
a cool, airy upper chamber from that appeased the spirit of mythological scenes and
One of the exquisite, well preserved murals at Pundarik ki Haveli

of a sharp ridge for 3 km (2 miles)

from north to south. Located
within the fort is one of the
world’s few surviving cannon
foundries. Its most prized
possession is the monumental
Jai Van, cast in 1720 and believed
to be the world’s largest cannon
on wheels. Its 6-m (20-ft) long
barrel has fine carvings of
elephants, birds and flowers.
Ironically, despite its impressive
size, the cannon remained a
The picturesque Jal Mahal during the monsoon work of art and was never fired.
An interesting sight is the
topped by a white marble dome. Environs massive Diva Burj, a tower on
Another is that of Sawai Ram Sawai Jai Singh II performed whose uppermost seventh
Singh II, with stone pillars and a number of Vedic yagnas on storey a huge oil lamp would
dome panels carved with images the western banks of Man be lit on the king’s birthday and
of Hindu deities and scenes from Sagar. Dating to that period during Diwali, until the top two
Krishna’s life. There is another are traces of a Yagna Stambha storeys were struck down by
sandstone and marble chhatri (“pillar”) where he performed lightning. The fort has two
in memory of Madho Singh II. a horse sacrifice, and the Kala temples and a large palace
The most recent cenotaph was Hanumanji, a temple dedicated complex built over 200 years
erected in 1997 in memory of to the popular monkey god. by different rulers. Located here
Jagat Singh, the only son of Sawai To the north of Jal Mahal is are the Subhat Niwas (audience
Man Singh II and Gayatri Devi. the splendidly restored Kanak hall), the profusely painted
Vrindavan Temple, dedicated Aram Mandir (an airy pleasure
Environs to Krishna, where the image of pavilion), the residential Laxmi
The chhatris of the official wives Govind Dev (see Niwas with baths, and a small
of the Jaipur kings are located p186) was theatre for music,
in a separate enclosure called lodged before it dance and
Maharani ki Chhatri, outside the was taken to puppet shows.
Jorawar Singh Gate of the walled the City Palace. The fort’s
city, on the road to Amber. Set in This picturesque intricate
a pleasant garden, the complex complex, with its system of
with its cupolas and carved well-landscaped collecting and
pillars was restored in 1995. gardens, fountains The famous Jai Van storing rainwater
and pavilions, makes in huge tanks
P Maharani ki Chhatri a popular picnic spot. located in the courtyard is
Amber Rd. Open 9am–4:30pm daily. unique. Legend has it that Man
Closed public hols. & P Jaigarh Singh I’s vast treasure, amassed
Amber Rd. Tel (0141) 267 1848. during his military campaigns,
P Jal Mahal Open 9am–4:30pm. was hidden within these tanks.
Amber Rd, opp Trident Hotel. Closed public hols. & In 1976, the government carried
Open restricted entry. Legendary Jaigarh, the “victory out a massive but unsuccessful
During the monsoon when fort”, watches over the old capital hunt, to the extent of draining
water fills the Man Sagar lake, of Amber, its great, crenellated the water tanks in hope of
the Jal Mahal or “water palace” outer walls delineating the edge locating this legendary trove.
seems to float serenely on
the calm waters of the lake.
Built in the mid-18th century
by Madho Singh I, it was based
on the Lake Palace at Udaipur
where the king spent his
childhood. Later it was used
as a lodge for duck shooting
parties, and even today, a large
number of waterbirds can be
sighted here. A terrace garden
is enclosed by arched passages,
and at each corner is a semi-
octagonal tower capped by
an elegant cupola. The ramparts of Jaigarh Fort, a feat of military engineering
2 Amber Fort
The fort palace of Amber was the Kachhawaha
citadel until 1727, when their capital moved to Jaipur.
However, successive rulers continued to come here on
all important occasions to seek the blessings of the family
deity, Shila Devi. The citadel was established in 1592 by
Man Singh I on the remains of an earlier 11th-century fort,
but various buildings added by Jai Singh I (r.1621–67)
constitute its magnificent centrepiece.
Elephant ride on the cobbled pathway

to the fort
. Sheesh Mahal
The flame of a single candle,
reflected in the tiny mirrors
embedded in this chamber,
transforms it into a starlit sky.
Jas Mandir
This hall of private audience has latticed
windows, a floral ceiling of elegant alabaster
relief work and glass inlay. A marble screen here
overlooks the Maota Lake and wafts in cool air.
Location of KEY
Amber Fort
Protected by 1 Jai Mandir
Jaigarh Fort, the
2 Aram Bagh, the pleasure garden.
massive ramparts
of Amber Fort 3 Sukh Niwas
follow the 4 Diwan-i-Aam
contours of a
natural ridge. 5 Sattais Katcheri
AMBER 205
Jaipur district. 11 km (6 miles)
N of Jaipur. Road map C3.
Tel (0141) 253 0293.
Open 9:30am–4:30pm daily.
Closed public hols. & 8=-
Son et Lumiere: 7:30pm daily.
. Ganesh Pol
The shimmering three-storeyed
gateway built in 1640 leads to the
private apartments, connected by
the screened upper-most level
for ladies in purdah.
. Shila Devi Temple

Behind this wall is the
temple dedicated
to Shila Devi.
Plan of Amber Fort

Key
3 2
Area illustrated above
7 Man Singh’s palace
Jaleb Chowk
9 8 5
4
6 1
1 Suraj Pol 4 Diwan-i-Aam 6 Sheesh Mahal

0 metres 100
2 Chand Pol 5 Ganesh Pol 7 Sukh Niwas
0 yards 100
3 Shila Devi 6 Jai Mandir 8 Baradari
Temple 6 Jas Mandir 9 Zenana
Exploring Amber (the Old Capital) The magnificent Ganesh Pol is

a beautifully painted gateway
Crowning the crest of a hill, Amber Fort offers a view of Maota to three private palaces built
Lake, two formal gardens, and the historic old town at the around an enclosed Mughal-
base of the hill, dotted with the remains of an older capital style garden (see p171), Aram
Bagh. Each of these pleasure-
before it shifted to the precincts of the fort. Some of the old palaces has some special feature.
havelis and numerous temples here are well-preserved, while Sukh Niwas has doors carved
stepwells and lakes point to the existence of a self sufficient from fragrant sandalwood, and
township where the Mughal emperor Akbar stopped by on water cascades over marble
his annual pilgrimage. chutes to cool the interior. The
marble Jai Mandir, at the other
end of the garden, contains the
superb Sheesh Mahal studded
with mirrors. The adjoining
Jas Mandir has a marble screen
across its eastern façade that
overlooks the Maota Lake.
The lake, which provided water
to the fort, is surrounded by two
exquisite gardens. The Kesar
Kyari Bagh has star-shaped
flower beds once planted with
saffron (kesar) flowers, while
Dilaram Bagh, built in 1568 as
a resting place for Emperor Akbar
on his way to Ajmer, is a clever
pun on the name of its architect,
Sattais Katcheri, where the revenue records were written Dilaram (“heart’s ease”). A small
archaeological museum is
The Fort Complex the Kachhawaha family deity, located near Dilaram Bagh.
The main entrance to the a stone (shila) goddess Kali, The furthermost end of the
historic Amber Fort is through brought here by Man Singh I fort, which was also its oldest
the imposing Suraj Pol (“sun from Bengal in 1604. The section, was converted into the
gate”), so called because it temple has ornately carved Zenana (“women’s quarters”)
faces the direction of the rising silver doors presented by the by Man Singh I to house his
sun, the Kachhawaha family second wife of the last maharaja 12 wives and concubines. The
emblem. This gate leads into in 1939, silver oil lamps and apartments bear the distinct
a huge flagged courtyard, grand pillars of green marble stamp of Mughal zenana
Jaleb Chowk, literally, “the square carved to look like banana trees. architecture, with screens
where elephants and horses are The next courtyard has the and covered balconies for
tethered”. Originally the fort’s Diwan-i-Aam, the space for the protection and purdah
parade ground, its central area public audience. Near it are of the royal ladies. Faint
is surrounded on three sides by 27 (sattais) airy colonnades, traces of frescoes are still visible
guard rooms. A flight of steps called the Sattais Katcheri, on the walls. In the centre of
leads to the Shila Devi Temple, where scribes once sat to the courtyard is a colonnaded
which contains the image of record revenue petitions. pavilion called the Baradari.
Kesar Kyari Bagh, named after rare saffron flowers once planted in its star-shaped flower beds
AMBER 207
Bharmal ki Chhatri, the old cenotaphs of the Kachhawaha rulers
The Township Mahadev Temple, dedicated souvenir shops. Further along

The Chand Pol (“moon gate”), to a manifestation of Shiva. this road, to the north, stands
directly opposite Suraj Pol, One of the oldest temples the Akbari Mosque, built by
leads to the old town outside here, it now stands 3 m (10 ft) Emperor Akbar in 1569 on
the fort. The Narsimha Temple, below ground level and is one of the spots where he
built in the early 15th century said to be slowly sinking. stopped to pray on his way
by the Kachhawaha king North of the to Ajmer (see pp222–3).
Narsingh Dev, is the Ambikeshwar Temple The basic structure of the
first of many on this is Panna Mian ka mosque remains intact
route. The temple Kund, built in the even though it has been
itself is only a small 17th century by a often repaired.
part of a derelict eunuch Panna Mian, Further westwards down
palace complex a leading figure at this road is Bharmal ki Chhatri,
which was the site the court of Raja Jai a walled enclosure containing
of past coronations Singh I. From here, a group of memorials. This was
before the Amber there is a cobbled the old cremation site for the
rulers abandoned Marble carving in path winding rulers of Amber until a new
it for the fort. Narsimha Temple eastwards past spot was established at Gaitor
East of this lies the further ruins and (see pp202–3) after the capital
beautiful Jagat Shiromani out through Kheri Gate, one moved from Amber to Jaipur.
Temple, erected in the early of the old gates of Amber,
17th century by Man Singh I leading to a popular picnic
in memory of his eldest son, spot called Sagar, with its
Jagat Singh. A remarkable two terraced lakes. These
toran (carved lintel) adorns the were once important sources
doorway of the temple which of water supply during times of
has images of Vishnu, Radha siege. Located in a depression
and Krishna. Legend says that formed by the surrounding
the Krishna image was brought hills, just behind Jaigarh Fort,
here in the 16th century by the the site still bears traces of an
saint-poetess Mira Bai, famous elaborate water transport
for her devotion to Lord Krishna, system in which elephants
from Chittorgarh, her home were used to carry water
in southern Rajasthan. up to the fort.
Situated further east is the These monuments lie to the
Sanghi Jutharam Temple which west of the main Jaipur–Delhi
at one time had a beautiful highway that cuts across the
12-sided well, a small garden town. The main market and
and several chambers. It is now the Amber bus stand are also
protected by the Archaeological located along this road, which
Survey of India (ASI). To its north- is now almost entirely occupied Steps criss-crossing down to the water in
east lies the Ambikeshwar by tiny wayside eateries and the partly restored Panna Mian ka Kund
4 Bagru
Jaipur district. 32 km (20 miles) SW
of Jaipur past Sanganer on Ajmer Rd.
Road map C3. @ ( daily.
The small village of Bagru is

yet another traditional textile
printing centre. Unlike the
refined prints of Sanganer,
Bagru’s are bolder and more
earthy, and originally had a
limited colour palette of red
and black. The indigo, yellow
and green that we see today
are later additions. The origins
of blockprinting in Bagru date
back some 300 years, when the
Marble statue of a Jain tirthankara at Sanganer’s Sanghiji Temple first few printing families were
brought to this village by the
3 Sanganer pottery, inspired by Persian and then thakur of Bagru, an
Jaipur district. 16 km (10 miles) SW of
Chinese blue and white tiles, so important fiefdom of the Jaipur
Jaipur. Road map C3. k ( daily. popular at the Mughal court. kings. Over time, more printers
Tucked away in the old walled settled here, lured by state
Two ornate triple-arched town is an impressive 11th-century patronage as well as the
gateways lead into Sanganer, Jain temple. The Sanghiji abundant supply of water,
a colourful town Temple was so essential for printing.
renowned for its probably built Bagru’s printers (chhipas)
blockprinted by a Jain trader supplied the fabric that was
cotton textiles. with additional used by the local farming
According to local donations from communities as both stitched
lore this tradition the town’s and unstitched garments.
of blockprinting other wealthy As the demand for blockprinted
goes back to the merchants. textiles increased, their clientele
16th century when Like other became more varied and
Sanga, one of the Frieze at Sanghiji Temple Jain temples their range of products more
18 sons of Prithviraj, found else- diversified. Yet, in many ways,
the Kachhawaha ruler of Amber, where in Rajasthan, this too little has changed and this is
re-established the town. Printers is lavishly decorated with one of the few places to see
from nearby villages were asked ornate stone carvings that the printing process at work.
to migrate to this new include images of all the Craftsmen still follow the
settlement to develop a range 24 Jain tirthankaras (saints) and traditional methods of resist-
of textiles for the Jaipur court. a beautiful statue of Mahavira, printing, blockprinting and
It was Sanganer’s river, with its the founder of Jainism, in the bleaching, and though the use
mineral powers of fixing the innermost sanctuary. of synthetic dyes has crept in,
colours of the dyes, that gave Sanganer is now a busy suburb some colours, such as black and
this printing village its fame of Jaipur city and the location of yellow, are still extracted from
and wealth. Today, the town its airport. vegetable and mineral matter.
resounds with the thud of
printing, as craftsmen work in
their sheds amidst bolts of cloth,
dye-soaked pads and wooden
blocks. Most of the printers and
dyers in the town belong to a
guild with retail outlets that sell
reasonably priced fabric, tailored
linen and accessories.
Sanganer is also a centre of
handmade paper, a spin-off
from textile printing, and
Jaipur’s famous Blue Pottery
(see p260). Raja Man Singh I of
Amber (see p53) set up the first
workshops here to produce this
special type of hand-painted Faded wall paintings outside the palace at Bagru
Blockprinted Textiles
Delicate flowers and foliage, paisleys, birds and animals on a white background are
Sanganer’s typical motifs. Handed down from father to son, these designs were inspired
by the flower studies of miniature paintings (see pp36–7) and Mughal pietra dura motifs
(see pp160–61). Blockprinting can be seen in the workshops of the city’s Chhipa Mohalla,
where each stage of this ancient technique, from chiselling intricate patterns on wooden
blocks, to dyeing the fabric in huge copper vats on wood-fed fires, and printing, is all
done by hand. In the more complex designs, a single motif may use up to ten different
colours with as many blocks, each with a different design. In the final stage, swathes of
printed cloth are spread on riverbanks or hung on huge frames to dry under the sky.
Sanganeri motifs of stylized flowers (phool) and leaves (buti)

in soft colours recreate a field of dainty flowers.
Textile printing is done with
wooden blocks. These are
dipped in dye to print the cloth
stretched across a low stool.
Earlier, colours were extracted Wooden printing
from vegetable and mineral blocks are carved by
matter. Pomegranate rinds, hand with popular
saffron, madder root, turmeric design motifs.
and the indigo plant were some Traditional designs
natural sources. Chemicals have have today been
now replaced some natural dyes. enlivened by inputs
from modern Indian
fashion designers.
Handmade Paper
The Kagazi Mohalla, the
Bagru’s floral, colony of papermakers,
figurative and geo- recycles scraps of cloth
metric motifs are and silk thread to produce
printed on a coarse an impressive range of
cotton cloth that is decorative and functional
made into blouses paper products. Fabric is first
and gathered skirts converted into pulp and then
worn by local women. flattened on a wire mesh. The
However, in recent thin sheets of paper are finally
years, these earthy peeled off and hung up to dry.
prints have become These craftsmen jealously
popular in urban preserve their trade secrets Sheets of handmade
centres too. and seldom marry outsiders. paper hung to dry
5 Alwar
Situated between Mughal and Rajput territories, Alwar’s
place in history was manipulated by its rulers who made
shrewd alliances to gain political leverage. Alwar’s growth
from a vassal state of the Kachhawaha kings to a significant
Rajput state came about after Pratap Singh captured the
fort of Bala Qila in 1775. Later, as the British cultivated it
as a friendly base in Rajputana, there followed a burst of
architectural extravagance that went along with a lavish
round of tiger shoots, as its rulers tried to rival the glittering
lifestyle of their cousins in Jaipur. Today, Alwar is a dusty
provincial town with some remarkable monuments, mostly
visited by tourists on their way to the Sariska National Park.
City Palace version of the rare and precious From the Gulistan, an 18th-century
Near Collectorate. Gulistan of the great Persian Mughal manuscript, City Palace Museum
Open 10am–4:30pm. poet Sa’adi, as well as the Babur
A stunning profusion of Nama or “Memoirs of Babur” E City Palace Museum
architectural features marks this (1530). The awesome armoury Open 10am–4:30pm. Closed Fri
palace, with Rajput bangaldar display includes the swords of & public hols. & ^
eaves and elegant chhatris Mohammed Ghori, Akbar and T Moosi Maharani ki Chhatri
alongside Mughal floral tracery Aurangzeb, and a macabre coil Open 10am–4:30pm. Closed Fri &
and jaalis. Built in 1793, the called nagphas, used for public hols. & Shoes not allowed.
palace is now largely occupied strangling enemies. The first
by the District Collectorate room contains a silver dining T Bala Qila
and Police Headquarters, so table with dividers, through Open daily. Written permission
it is best viewed from the which moving metal shoals is needed from the office of the
large central courtyard. A of swimming fish can be seen. Superintendent of Police, City Palace.
stairway flanked by two Behind the palace, across a Perched on a steep hill above
marble kiosks leads from magnificent kund, is the the city, easily accessible by car,
here to the Durbar Hall and cenotaph of Maharaja the Bala Qila was originally a
Sheesh Mahal, where special Bakhtawar Singh (r.1791– 10th-century mud fort. Several
entry permission is required. 1815). It is locally known as additions were made to it by the
A door on the right of the Moosi Maharani ki Chhatri Jats and Mughals (Babur is said
courtyard leads to the City after his mistress who to have spent a night here) until
Palace Museum, spread performed sati here it was finally captured in 1775 by
over three halls of the Dagger, City when he died. One of Pratap Singh of Alwar. Now a
upper storey. These Palace Museum Rajasthan’s most elegant police wireless station, this
contain some treasures monuments, blending sprawling fort was defended by
of the erstwhile rulers, such brown sandstone and white 66 large and small towers. The
as their famed collection of marble, its carved pavilion has frescoed palace within, the
miniature paintings of the domed arches with exquisite Nikumbh Mahal, was named
Alwar, Jaipur and Mughal floral tracery, and ceilings after its first occupants, the
schools. The 7,000 rare adorned with fading gold leaf Nikumbh Rajputs. The entire city
manuscripts in Persian, Arabic, paintings of mythological can be seen from the fort’s exten-
Urdu and Sanskrit include an characters and sive ramparts, which give an idea
illuminated Koran, a courtly scenes. of its scale and of the engineering
skills that went into its building.
Also visible are the ruins of Salim
Mahal, named after Jahangir
(Salim), who was exiled here after
he plotted to kill Abu’l Fazl, Akbar’s
official biographer and one of
the “nine gems” of his court.
Y Company Bagh
Vivekanand Marg. Open 6am–6pm.
A lovely garden when it was laid
out in 1868, the Company Bagh
The elegant marble pavilion at Moosi Maharani ki Chhatri is now a shadow of its former
Alwar district. 150 km (93 miles)
NE of Jaipur. Road map C3.
* 315,300. n TRC, near
Railway Station, Alwar, (0144) 234
7348; Paryatan Bhavan, MI Road,
Jaipur, (0141) 511 0595. ( daily.
_ Jagannathji Fair (Mar–Apr),
Laldas Mela (May), Sawan Teej
(Jul–Aug), Diwali (Oct–Nov).
Transport
£ Nehru Marg. @ Manu Marg.
The aqueduct which brought water from Siliserh to the Company Bagh
self. It was originally named after five-storeyed monument, palace-fortress to the south
Alwar’s British ally and protector, constructed in 1647. Dominated of the Company Bagh blown
the East India Company. Later, by an enormous dome, its walls up because it offended his
it was christened Purjan Vihar and ceiling have raised plaster sensibilities. Vijay Mandir was
by Maharaja Jai Singh. An reliefs, and fine calligraphic his last official residence and
enchanting greenhouse here inscriptions can be seen on he lived here for many years.
is named “Simla”, because it the first floor. A school now The former ruling family still
reminded the maharaja of the occupies the tomb’s compound. occupies it and reserves the
British summer capital in North right of admission to it.
India. A 3-km (2-mile) long Environs Alwar is full of apocryphal
aqueduct, made of solid stone To the north of Alwar, located stories of Jai Singh’s strange
masonry, brought water from a at the edge of Vijay Sagar tastes. His Bugatti cars were
reservoir at Siliserh to this garden. Lake, is the 105-roomed Vijay “buried” after he tired of
Mandir Palace, built to look them, and he once famously
 Fateh Jang’s Tomb like an anchored ship by Jai ordered a custom-made
Near Alwar Railway Station. Singh (r.1892–1937). A great gold Lancaster car that
Open 9:30am–4:30pm. builder of palaces, the eccen- resembled the King of
The tomb of Fateh Jang, one tric Jai Singh had the famous England’s coronation
of Shah Jahan’s ministers, is a 100-roomed Moti Doongri coach, minus the horses!
Alwar Town Map

KISHANGARH
1 Bala Qila
Bala Qila
2 City Palace Complex
3 Company Bagh
4 Fateh Jang’s Tomb MANGLANSAR
CIRCLE
RG
Moosi
Shiva
RAGHU MA
Maharani
ki Chhatri Temple
NEHRU MARG
City Palace
Complex New Tej
Theatre
B H A G AT
BAJA SINGH
JA B Clock
AZA AR R CIRCLE J AY
D Tower MARG
MA NGA L MA Fateh Jang’s

RG
Bus Tomb
MANU MARG
Station
Company
Bagh
Railway
Station
NANGALI
CIRCLE
DELHI
V I N AY M A R G
NEHRU MARG
G
GHU MAR
Phool
Bagh
RA
0 kilometres 1
0 miles 1
JAIPUR

6 Siliserh
Alwar district. 13 km (8 miles) SW
of Alwar. Road map C3. n Tourist
Office, opposite Railway Station,
Alwar, (0144) 234 7348. @
This enchanting spot is midway

between Alwar and Sariska
National Park (see pp214–15).
The 10.5 sq km (4 sq miles)
Siliserh Lake, in a valley
bounded by low forested hills, is
still the main reservoir supplying
water to Alwar and the Rajgarh Fort, once the capital of the Alwar kings
surrounding area. Perched on a
hillock overlooking the lake is 7 Rajgarh however, with its once beautiful
the water palace built in 1845 Alwar district. 35 km (22 miles) S of
Sheesh Mahal, frescoed walls
by the king of Alwar, Vinay Alwar. Road map C3. n Tourist and secret passages, was main-
Singh, for his beautiful wife, a Office, opposite Railway Station, tained as a summer residence,
local village girl, so that she Alwar, (0144) 234 7348. @ Miter Vihar but over time it fell into disuse
could be near her family home. Colony, (0144) 2334984. £ Sadulpur. until finally it was abandoned.
This once-grand palace is now a The town, too, at the foot of
hotel and an ideal place for a Overlooking a picturesque the hill, wears a desolate look.
quiet getaway, as the only valley, with green fields and
sounds one hears are those citrus groves, is the grand hilltop
made by cormorants, ducks and fort of Rajgarh, the old capital 8 Sariska National
other waterbirds. Pathways lead of the Alwar rulers. Built by the Park
up the foothills and around the founder of the dynasty, Pratap
lake where the remains of old Singh, in the mid-18th century, See pp214–15.
cenotaphs still stand. From the its status as the capital was brief,
palace’s open terrace there are and in 1775, when Pratap Singh
wonderful views of the sun captured Bala Qila (see p210), the 9 Bairat
setting over the lake. court moved to Alwar. The fort, Alwar district. 64 km (40 miles) SW
of Alwar. Road map C3. n Tourist
Office, opposite Railway Station,
Alwar, (0144) 234 7348. @
Nowhere is the age and majesty

of the Aravalli Hills as apparent
in the region as it is at Bairat.
The striking topography of
giant rocks, variously textured
and shaped, provides a dramatic
backdrop for an excavated,
ancient archaeological site that
dates back to the 3rd century
BC. One of the cities along the
main north-south trade route,
this was a major Buddhist
centre. A rock edict of Emperor
Ashoka (273–232 BC) was
found here, and at one end
of the village, off a dirt track,
high on a hillock locally known
as Bijak ki Pahadi, are the
remnants of a Buddhist
monastery and circular
temple. It is believed to be
India’s oldest free-standing
structure. Historians have
identified it as a chaitya hall
or chapel which was once
supported by 26 octagonal
Siliserh Palace, built on a hillock overlooking the lake wooden columns.
Bairat’s history, however,

goes back to the time of
the Mahabharata (around
the 9th century BC), when
this land formed part of a
kingdom comprising much
of eastern Rajasthan, and was
ruled by King Virat from his
capital of Viratnagar (present
Bairat). It was here that the
Pandavas (see p145) spent the
13th year of their exile. Locals
believe that one of the Pandava
brothers, the mighty Bhim, lived
at Bhim ki Doongri (“Bhim’s
hillock”), and that Arjuna created Remains of the circular temple dating to the Buddhist period, Bairat
the River Banganga when he
struck an arrow into the earth. 0 Bhangarh Singh, the younger brother of
King Virat joined the Pandavas Alwar district. 56 km (35 miles) S of
Amber’s Raja Man Singh I (see
in the battle at Kurukshetra, Sariska via Thana Gazi. Road map C3. p53), Bhangarh, also known
and his daughter married n Tourist Office, opposite Railway as the “City of Ten Thousand
Arjuna’s son, Abhimanyu. Station, Alwar, (0144) 234 7348. @ Homes”, exemplifies the
On the other side of town, hierarchy of traditional
near the rock edict, is an early A bumpy ride from Sariska will town planning.
17th-century garden mansion take you to the abandoned city A colonnaded stone path-
dating to Jahangir’s reign. of Bhangarh, a fascinating site way lined with market kiosks,
Within the compound is a Jain said to be a Kachhawaha clan stables or residences leads
temple, and just outside is the citadel before Amber. Local to the inner sanctum at the
charming 16th-century hunting legend says that the place was foot of the hills, where a ruined
lodge where Akbar camped } deserted when cursed by an palace, derisively called
on his way to Ajmer. Locally evil magician, and many of its Randiyon ka Mahal (“palace
known as the Chhatri, structures were transported to of the prostitutes”) remains,
it was built on a the new capital, overlooking the Someshwar
raised platform, Ajabgarh. Built in Temple, still in use. Three
with five well- the early 17th other temples dot the
sculpted pavilions. century by Madho sprawling site, of which the
Mangala Devi Temple, with
a corbelled dome and finely
carved exterior, is by far the
most imposing.
Environs
On the road to Bhangarh
is Ajabgarh, built by Madho
Singh’s grandson as a new
settlement for the people of
Bhangarh. Part of the old town
is under water, but a fort and
Carved bracket from the Mangala Devi Temple, Bhangarh some ruins may still be seen.
The Pandavas in Exile

The great epic, the Mahabharata (see p145), describes how, after losing
the Pandava kingdom and wife Draupadi to the wicked Kauravas at a
game of dice, Prince Yudhishthira, along with his brothers, Bhim, Arjuna,
Nakul and Sahdev, were banished to 13 years of exile. The last year was
the most crucial and had to be spent in complete anonymity for, if
recognized, it meant another 12 years of exile. Forced to accept these
rigid terms, the Pandavas roamed the country, spending their 13th year
in disguise at the court of King Virat. The story of the Pandavas, their exile
and the final battle are important components of the land’s folklore,
while sites such as Kurukshetra (see p144), associated with their The five Pandava brothers, from a
adventures, are venerated pilgrim spots. popular TV serial
8 Sariska National Park

Designated a tiger reserve under Project Tiger (see p227)
in 1979, the park sprawls over 800 sq km (308 sq miles)
with a core area of 480 sq km (185 sq miles). The Aravallis
branch out at Sariska, forming low plateaux and valleys
that harbour a wide spectrum of wildlife in the dry jungles.
Formerly the private hunting ground of Alwar State, Sariska
owes a debt to the strict game and protection laws laid
down by its conservation-conscious rulers, which preserved
its natural habitat and wildlife. A 17th-century fortress and
Langur Monkeys
several ancient temple ruins, such as the Pandupol Temple, These black-faced primates
also lie within the park. with long tails are known
as Hanuman langurs.
Sariska Palace
An elegant 19th-
century hunting lodge
of the Alwar rulers, this
palace, now a luxury
hotel, has a collection
Ba
of vintage photographs
ra
of past hunts, and
Na
la
period furnishings.
Sariska
Bharthari
Jaipur Bandipol
Thanaghazi Karnawas
Udainath Kankwadi
Entrance
J
Kalighati
Endangered Species
Rampant poaching in the past years has depleted the
park’s tiger population. Approximately five remain.
Tehla
Water Holes
To combat the chronic
shortage of water in
the region, the Forest
Department has laid out
a series of water holes at
Pandupol, Bandipol, Slopka,
Kalighati and Talvriksha.
These make good vantage
points to view wildlife,
especially at sunset, when
herds of animals flock to
them to quench their thirst.
Flora
The dry deciduous forests
of Sariska come to life during
the brief spring and early
Alwar district. 103 km (22 miles)
summer when the flowering
NE of Jaipur. Road map C3.
dhak (Butea monosperma)
n Field Director, Project Tiger
and laburnum bloom. The
Sanctuary, Sariska (0144) 284
date palm begins to bear
1333. Open 6–10am, 3–6pm.
fruit, while berries, locally
Closed Jul–Sep. & extra for
known as kair (Capparis
personal vehicles or jeeps.
decidua) appear
8-0
on the bushes.
Transport
@ Alwar.
Alwar
Jackal
Jackals and hyenas often lead trackers to a tiger kill.
Along with panthers and jungle cats, these carnivores
feed on the many species of deer, nilgai or blue bull,
wild boar and porcupine in the forest.
0 kilometres 5
0 miles 2
Pandupol
J
J Umri
Slopka
Cheetal
The gentle cheetal or spotted
deer, like the sambar, is
commonly seen at the park’s
water holes, or resting under
the trees. The other deer
species, the chowsingha (four-
horned antelope), is specific
to Sariska and can be seen
around Pandupol.
Key
Major road
Minor road Grey Partridge
The hides at Kalighati and Slopka are ideal for observing the
Park border park’s birdlife, such as the crested serpent eagle, the great
Trails Indian horned owl, wood-peckers, kingfishers and partridge.
q Chomu
Jaipur district. 32 km (20 miles) NW
of Jaipur. Road map C3. n Paryatan
Bhawan, Khasa Kothi Hotel Campus,
MI Rd, Jaipur, (0141) 511 0598. ( daily.
The small town of Chomu links

Jaipur with the Shekhawati
region. Traces of a grander past
are visible in its once impressive
fort, handsome havelis and
stepwells. But Chomu’s charm
lies in its rural ambience, where
bullocks and camels plough the
fields, and the unique four-
pillared well is the main source
of water. In the market, tractor
spare parts and tubewell pump- The fairy tale Samode Palace, a luxurious retreat set amidst rugged hills
sets vie for attention with hand-
carts spilling over with mounds powerful noble of the Jaipur represent the best of the Jaipur
of cucumbers and ber (Zizyphus state, this jewel-like palace style and are said to rival those
mauritiana), a berry for which nestles among the hills below at Jaipur’s Chandra Mahal (see
the region is famous. an older hill fort. pp192–3) and Tonk’s Sunehri
A flight of stairs leads up to a Kothi (see p226). The palace is
massive gateway and into the now a luxury hotel (see p241),
w Samode palace. Its simple exterior is but non-guests can pay an
Jaipur district. 42 km (26 miles) NW
highly deceptive for, surround- entrance fee to see it.
of Jaipur. Road map C3. n Paryatan ing the vast central courtyard, A short distance away is
Bhawan, Khasa Kothi Hotel Campus, are spacious rooms on three Samode Bagh where the more
MI Rd, Jaipur, (0141) 511 0598. ( daily. levels. Of these, the chambers adventurous can stay in one of
_ Gangaur festival (Mar–Apr). on the uppermost level are the the 50 deluxe tents pitched in
most opulent. The Durbar Hall, the formal garden. Other points
Samode’s romantic palace, Sheesh Mahal and Sultan Mahal of interest are the abandoned
immortalized in films such as are embellished with dazzling old fort at the end of a strenuous
The Far Pavilions, is the main mirrorwork and elaborate walk up 376 steps, and the
reason why this minor Rajput murals that depict courtly life, quaint little village where a
hamlet is now a luxurious hunting scenes and religious wide variety of local handicrafts
tourist destination. Erected in themes, along with floral and such as lac bangles and jootis
the late 19th century by a geometric motifs. The murals (slippers) are available.
The Painted Havelis of Shekhawati

In the many little towns of Shekhawati are the ancestral homes
of some of India’s leading industrialist families, such as the
Birlas, Dalmias and Goenkas. These sprawling old havelis with
their exuberantly frescoed walls (see p33) were built between
the late 18th and early 20th centuries by the local Marwari
merchants who had migrated to
the port-cities of Bombay and
Calcutta to seek their fortunes. A “pop art” view of Rajput chieftains
Their interaction with the British
and exposure to modern urban and industrial trends influenced
their lifestyles, and their homes reflected the new ideas they
brought back with them, as well as their newfound wealth and
social status.
The style and content of the Shekhawati frescoes are a telling
comment on the urbanization of a traditional genre. The local artists
still followed the one-dimensional realism of traditional Indian
painting (see pp36–7), but juxtaposed among the gods, goddesses
and martial heroes are images from a changing world. In their
celebration of contemporary “pop” themes, the frescoes of British
ladies, top-hatted gentlemen, brass bands and soldiers, trains, motor
cars, aeroplanes, gramophones and telephones, symbolize the
The entrance to Biyani Haveli, Sikar emerging industrial society of the late 19th century.
e A Tour of Shekhawati
Northeast of Jaipur, situated along the old camel caravan
trade route, lies Shekhawati, or the “garden of Shekha”,
named after Rao Shekha, a fiercely independent ruler
who consolidated the region in the 15th century. Today,
the region resembles a vast open-air museum full of
frescoed mansions. A network of excellent roads through
semi-arid scrubland connects most towns and villages
where the painted havelis of India’s leading merchant
families stand today in ghostly splendour.
Gods and goddesses frolic on the wall of
Biyani Haveli, Sikar
4 Mandawa
The fort-palace is
now a charming hotel
and a convenient base
from which to visit the
neighbouring towns.
3 Fatehpur
This picturesque mid-15th
century town is best known for the
Singhania, Goenka and Jalan havelis.
Jhunjhunu
Key
Tour route Mukundgarh
Roads 5 Dundlod
Its fort-palace
Rivers and two splendid
Goenka havelis
are worth a visit.
0 kilometres 20
0 miles 10 6 Nawalgarh
The Poddar and the
Aath (“eight”) havelis
2 Lachhmangarh are renowned for
This 19th-century town is their frescoes.
based on Jaipur’s grid plan.
The Char Chowk (“four
coutyards”) Haveli, owned by
the Ganeriwala family, is said to
be the grandest in the region.
Nagaur
Tips for Drivers Jaipur
Length: 111 km (69 miles).

Stopping-off points: Mandawa,
Dundlod, Mukundgarh, Fatehpur
and Nawalgarh have good hotels.
Petrol pumps are at regular
intervals on the main road.
Apart from NH11, the lesser roads
towards Jhunjhunu are poor, but
there are roadside eateries at 1 Sikar
intervals selling mineral water, Sikar’s charm lies in
hot and cold drinks and snacks. its havelis, bazaars
and rural ambience.
r Sambhar by evaporation, drawing up

Salt Lake salt from underground deposits.
The little township that has
Jaipur district. 70 km (44 miles)
grown around the lake survives
NE of Ajmer. Road map B3. @
_ Shakambri Mata Mela (Oct).
on the extraction and packaging
of salt. Men, women and even
Sambhar Lake is among the children can be seen working
six crucial sites in India away at the countless trenches
designated by the World Wide and mounds that are spread
Fund for Nature (WWF) as a across the ghostly-white terrain.
wetland of international This has now become a highly
importance. This vast inland commercial business, and
saline lake spreads over an though only one state-owned
area of roughly 230 sq km company has the monopoly,
(89 sq miles) and is fed by there has been an
four river streams. unprecedented growth Marble quarrying at Makrana, a stone-
During November and in the numbers of private quarrying centre in the region
December, several manufacturers. Many
species bunds (small dams) and produce the highly-prized,
of migratory bird, have been illegally luminous white marble that
especially flamingoes, constructed in the was used to build the Taj Mahal
can be seen here. catchment area to (see pp158–9). Quarrying began
A number of retain rainwater for several centuries ago, and
local legends are Flamingoes in flight over small-scale traditional open-pit methods
connected with the Sambhar Lake operations. This has are still used to excavate the
lake’s origin, and a affected not only the stone. The demand for good
Shiva temple and two sacred flow of water into the lake but quality marble has not lessened,
tanks dedicated to mythological has also put a considerable and nearly 50,000 tons are
princesses are an indication of strain on its ecosystem. mined annually and transported
the lake’s antiquity. The place, throughout the country.
however, came into The town is also a good place
prominence after t Makrana to pick up gifts and souvenirs.
it was noticed by Babur in the Nagaur district. 80 km (50 miles) N Many small workshops have
16th century. Since then, it has of Ajmer. Road map B3. * 95,000. sprung up where artisans carve
been a major source of salt for n Khadim Hotel, Ajmer. ( daily. statues, pillars, vases, lamps and
the country. One of the reasons other objects for local sale and
for this is that after a good Great slabs of hewn marble export. Objects are also sent to
monsoon, the water level can indicate that Makrana is a highly Agra where marble inlayers
rise by up to 1 m (3 ft), but over commercial stone-quarrying recreate the same delicate floral
winter, the lake turns brackish centre. The quarries stretch over patterns as seen in the Taj Mahal
due to capillary action caused a distance of 20 km (12 miles) (see pp160–61).
Salt packaging at Sambhar Salt Lake

Phool Mahal Palace in a picturesque setting
y Kishangarh The old city is certainly worth the region is famous. The Phool
Ajmer district. 30 km (19 miles) NE
exploring as it remains much Mahal, a privately-owned
of Ajmer on NH 8. Road map B4. as it was in the past. The narrow palace which is now a heritage
* 155,000. n Khadim Hotel, Ajmer. streets are lined with havelis, hotel (see p241), has an idyllic
some of which have been setting on the banks of a
Of all Rajputana’s princely states, converted into shops, and on lake that attracts a variety of
this was the smallest. It was the pavements are vendors waterbirds. Shady balconies,
established in the early 17th selling all kinds of merchandise, courtyard gardens and brass
century by Kishan Singh, a Rathore including red chillies for which doors flanked by paintings
prince from Jodhpur, on lands hint at its past glory.
near Ajmer. The king’s sister was
one of Jahangir’s wives, a privilege T Phool Mahal
that gave him a special status at Tel (01463) 24 7405/7505.
the Mughal court. An obvious
outcome of this proximity was Environs
that the Kishangarh kings tried The 17th-century Roopangarh
to emulate the cultured lifestyle Fort, 25 km (15 miles) from
of the Mughal emperors, and Kishangarh, was once the
when the arts lost imperial capital of the state. Among
patronage under the leadership the riches of this splendid
of the austere Aurangzeb, this tiny heritage hotel is a rare
state became a haven for several Roopangarh Fort, built in the 17th century, collection of the famous
migrant miniature painters. now a charming heritage hotel Kishangarh miniatures.
The Kishangarh School (1735–70)

In the mid-17th century, many miniature painters left the
imperial atelier and moved to the Rajput, Central Indian
and Punjab hill states, where each court evolved its own
distinct regional style. Kishangarh’s School of Painting
flourished under the reign of Raja Sawant Singh (r.1748–64)
who was a mystic, poet and Krishna devotee. His talented
court painter, Nihal Chand, immortalized the love story of
the king and his court singer in lyrical, romantic paintings
where they are portrayed as Radha and Krishna. They are
often surrounded by animals and birds, also in pairs,
celebrating the union of the gods. The most famous
painting is the portrait of Bani Thani, as the court singer
was known. She is depicted in profile with a sharp nose
and very elongated eyes and tapering wrist and
fingers. This highly stylized form of portraiture
became the hallmark of the Kishangarh School. Portrait of Bani Thani
u Street-by-Street: Pushkar
A peaceful pilgrim town of lakes and 400 temples, Pushkar
derives its name from pushpa (flower) and kar (hand) after a
legend that says that its lakes were created from the petals that
fell from the divine hands of Brahma, the Creator (see pp28–9).
Today, life revolves around its lakeside ghats, temples and
vibrant, colourful bazaars, and it is this harmonious mix of
the spiritual and commercial that draws people to Pushkar.
Villagers at the Fair

Hundreds of thousands of
Dhanna Bhagat people, camels and cattle
Residential area Temple attend the annual fair, said to
be one of Asia’s largest.
0 metres 100
0 yards 100
SA
D
A
R
BA
ZA
A
R
To Savitri Temple
RG
A
Badi Ganeshji
. Brahma Temple
M
Temple
A
This is one of the few temples in India

M
A
dedicated to Brahma who, as myth says,

KR
was cursed by his wife Savitri when, in her

RI
absence, he invited Gayatri, a tribal girl,

PA
to take her place in an important ritual.
Parshuram Temple
Pushkar Lake
On top of a hill, by
the sacred lake at
Puskhar, is the
temple of Savitri.
Across the lake, on
Key
another hill, is the
Suggested route Gayatri Temple.
Ajmer district. 144 km (89 miles)
SW of Jaipur. Road map B4.
* 15,000. ( 9am–8pm daily.
_ Pushkar fair (Nov). No eggs,
meat or alcohol available/
allowed. n RTDC, Hotel Sarovar,
Pushkar Lake, (0145) 277 2040.
Transport
@ RTDC, Hotel Sarovar, Pushkar Camel race at the Pushkar fair
Lake, (0145) 277 2040.
Rangaji Temple Pushkar Mela
This temple is conspicuous for its In the Hindu month of
South Indian style of architecture. Kartik (Nov), ten days after
Its gopuram (pagoda) towers over Diwali, this quiet town and
the area. The temple is not open its environs come alive as
to foreign visitors. the much-anticipated annual
cattle fair gets going. Several
campsites and temporary
Digambar Jain tents suddenly appear to
Dharamshala accommodate the thousands
Mosque of pilgrims, tourists and
Women at Sadar Bazaar villagers who come here
with herds of cattle, horses
and camels to participate
To Ajmer bus stop
in this spectacular event.
To th Pushkar has always been
e fai
r gro the region’s main cattle market
und
for local herdsmen and farmers
buying and selling camels
and indigenous breeds of
cattle. Over the years, this
AR To trade in livestock has
BAZA S un increased in volume and
SADAR set
po has become one of Asia’s
int
largest cattle fairs.
In the vast, specially-built
amphitheatre that lies on the
outskirts of the town, camel,
horse and donkey races and
contests take place amid lusty
cheers from a huge audience.
A festive funfair atmosphere
prevails over Pushkar during
the Mela’s two-week duration.
Chhatri Giant ferris wheels and open-
air theatres offer amusement,
while food and souvenir stalls
do brisk business. In the
evenings, people huddle
round campfires, listening
to the haunting strains of
Rajasthani folk ballads.
The fair reaches a crescendo
on the night of the full moon
(purnima), when pilgrims take
a dip in the holy lake. At dusk,
during the mesmerizing
. Ghats deepdan ceremony, hundreds
Pushkar has 52 ghats. Devout Hindus make at least one of clay lamps on leaf boats
pilgrimage to Pushkar and bathe at the holy ghats to wash are lit and set afloat in a
away their sins and thereby earn themselves salvation. magical tableau.
i Ajmer structure is an exquisite seven-

arched screen in front of the
Famous throughout the subcontinent as the holiest Muslim many-pillared hall. Each arch
pilgrim centre after Mecca, Ajmer’s prominence in history is different from the next, and
is connected to the dargah of a Sufi saint, Khwaja Moinuddin every column is ornamented
with delicate engravings and
Chishti. The Mughals made Ajmer the provincial capital of calligraphic inscriptions in both
their territories in Rajputana, and it was here that Sir Thomas Kufic and Tughra (early Arabic
Roe, the first British ambassador, presented his credentials scripts). The sheer exuberance
to Jahangir in 1615. Although the dargah is still its most of the decoration and ingenious
important landmark, Ajmer is also known for its proximity use of materials led Cunningham,
the first Director-General of the
to another famous pilgrimage centre, Pushkar. The town
Archaeological Survey of India,
is framed by undulating hillocks dotted with evocative to describe it as “one of the
ruins. The picturesque environs of Anasagar Lake with noblest buildings the world
charming pavilions, are popular with picnickers. has produced”.
E Government
P Taragarh Fort Museum Ajmer
Taragarh Rd. Tel (0145) 262 7426. Near bus stand. Tel (0145) 262 0637.
Open sunrise–sunset daily. Open 10am–4:30pm daily.
The rugged, sprawling 7th-century Closed public hols. &
“Star Fort” occupies the summit Akbar’s fort and palace was the
of Beetli Hill. A series of five first seat of Mughal power in
gateways lead into this once- Rajasthan and was later used by
impregnable citadel, said to be the British as an arsenal. On the
the earliest hill fort in the country. orders of Viceroy Lord Curzon, it
Many ruined buildings lie within was converted into a museum in
it, among which are a mosque, 1908. Formerly known as the
still in use, and the shrine of Miran Rajputana Museum, its varied
Sayyid Hussain, a 12th-century collection highlights sculpture
governor of the fort. The later The Dargah Sharif dome rising above the and other antiquities gathered
structures were added by the surrounding houses from sites all over Rajasthan. The
British whose troops occupied most impressive exhibits are the
the fort in the 19th century. religious fair held during the sculptures dating from the 4th to
Urs in the 18th century. Like 12th centuries, of which the most
 Dargah Sharif the Quwwat-ul-Islam mosque at remarkable are the four-armed
See pp224–5. Delhi’s Qutb complex (see p117), Vishnu seated on Garuda, and a
also built at the same time, pillars door-frame from the ancient site
T Adhai Din ka Jhonpra and fragments from nearby of Baghera, depicting the ten
N of Dargah Sharif, Nalla Bazaar. Hindu and Jain temples were avataras of Vishnu. Other important
Open 10am–4:30pm. Closed Mon used for its construction. displays include antique coins,
& public hols. The mosque itself, said to have inscriptions, copper plates,
This impressive complex of been built over a demolished paintings and weapons.
pillared cloisters is all that remains Jain college, stands on a platform
of a mosque built around AD 1198 cut out of the hillside, with ten  Nasiyan Temple
by the ruler of the Slave dynasty, shallow domes supported by Anok Chowk, Prithviraj Marg.
Qutbuddin Aibak. Some say that 124 columns. The glory of the Open summer: 8am–5pm;
the mosque’s name, which winter: 8:30am–5pm daily. &
means “a hut of two-and-a-half Built in the 19th century,
days”, indicates the time taken to the “Red Temple” in the
build it. However, it is more likely heart of Ajmer is a
that it refers to the duration of a
The exquisitely carved seven-arched façade of the Adhai Din ka Jhonpra

AJMER 223
Ajmer district. 135 kilometres
(112 miles SW of Jaipur).
Road map B4. * 543,000.
n RTDC Hotel Khadim,
(0145) 262 7426. _ Urs (July).
Transport
@ Near Hotel Khadim.
£ Station Rd.
~ Sanganer.
The Aravalli Range, picturesquely framing the Anasagar Lake
fine example of a Jain religious Prithviraj Chauhan. Charmed by princes, the school’s main
building. Just behind the main its scenic beauty, Jahangir laid building, designed by Charles
temple (closed to non-Jains) out a garden, Daulat Bagh, Mant, is a jewel of Indo-Saracenic
is the double-storeyed Svarna and Shah Jahan built the architecture (see p31). Its early
Nagari Hall. It is elaborately marble pleasure pavilions. students were allowed to live
decorated with coloured glass Overlooking this popular in their individual “houses”
mosaics, and large gilded picnic spot is a grand with English private tutors
wooden figures re-create colonial building, now and family retainers.
scenes from Jain mythology, the Circuit House, where Some, such as the prince
such as the birth and life of the British Resident of Alwar, would ride to
Rishabhdeva, the first Jain once lived. school after vacations
tirthankar (saint). on an elephant. After
P Mayo College 1947, commoners
P Anasagar Lake Shrinagar Rd. Tel (0145) 266 were allowed entry,
Circular Rd. Open 7am–10pm. 1286. Can visit with Lord Mayo and today, along with
This tranquil lake to the north Principal’s permission. its girls’ section, Mayo is
of the city is named after Anaji Set up in 1875 by Lord Mayo as rated as one of India’s best
(r.1135–50), the grandfather of an “Eton of the East” for Rajput public schools.
Ajmer Town Map

1 Dargah Sharif
AN
2 Adhai Din ka Jhonpra

A SA
3 Goverment Museum
G
AR L
Ajmer
I NK R O
AD T OD 4 Nasiyan Temple
RO A RMA
LR
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GA
O 5 Anasagar Lake
AD
HA
AD
Anasagar Lake
6 Mayo College
LO
JAIPUR
PUSHKAR SA
DAULAT BAG
Daulat V ITR
I A D
Bagh I RO
G
L 'S
UR
R
CO IP
LLE JA
Merwara State
G
Azad Park
E
PU
Bus Stand
H RO
Estate D
RD
OA
RR
SH
PU
IR
AD
AR
K
CU
I
RO
JA
AD
LA
Pushkar
AD
Nasiyan AJM
Bus Stand ER
PR
R
RO
Temple BY
PA
RO
ITH
SS
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Goverment HW
VI
HE
Delhi Gate
AD
Y
RA
Museum
TC
J
Ajmer
BAZAR ROAD
KU
MA
DARGAH
Daulat
RG
Khana
STAT I O N R
AD
NALA BAZAR RO
Adhai Din Ajmer Junction
CI
ka Jhonpra
K A W A N D AS P U R A
RC
Dargah Khwaja
ULAR R O A
Sharif Muin-ud-din- Beechla

Tank
OAD
Chishti Dargah
SHRINAG
D
AR RO
AD
Taragarh Fort
Mayo
0 metres 800 College
0 yards 800

Dargah Sharif
A revered Muslim pilgrim centre since the 12th century,
the Dargah Sharif contains the tomb of the famous Sufi
saint Khwaja Moinuddin Chishti (1143–1236), popularly
called Garib Nawaz, or “protector of the poor”. Reputed to
possess miraculous powers, the saint draws people of every
faith to his dargah to seek favours and blessings. It is said
that the saint entered his cell to pray in seclusion until his
death on the sixth day. Each year, six days in the seventh
lunar month (October) are marked as his Urs (death
anniversary celebrations). Over the years, the saint’s . Mehfil Khana
Built in 1888 by the fabulously
royal devotees built grand extensions to the tomb, wealthy Nizam of Hyderabad, this is
so that today the dargah complex, teeming with the venue for all-night qawwalis.
pilgrims and tourists, is virtually a township in itself.
. Shahjahani Masjid
Emperor Shah Jahan built this marble
mosque. The Mughals made many such
generous endowments.
Qawwali Singers
Qawwalis (see p34), always sung by a
group, are specially composed to sing
the saint’s praises in front of his tomb.
. Mazar Sharif
Chishti’s tomb, begun during the
saint’s lifetime by Iltutmish, was
KEY
completed in the 16th century by
Emperor Humayun. Later Mughal 1 Ibadat Khana (prayer hall)
princes added to it. A marble dome
surmounts the simple brick tomb, 2 Nizam Gate
enclosed by a silver railing and 3 Shahjahani Gate
a marble lattice screen.
AJMER 225
Akbar’s Mosque
Akbar, Chishti’s most illustrious
devotee, walked from Agra to
Ajmer twice: once for enabling
Ajmer district. 141 km (87 miles)
his conquest of Chittor, and again
SW of Jaipur. Road map B4.
after the birth of his heir, Prince
n RTDC TO Hotel Khadim
Salim, the future Jahangir.
(0145) 262 7426. Open daily.
_ Urs (July). =
Pilgrims
People of every faith come
to seek favours and bring
flowers and chadors as
thanksgiving offerings.
Dargah Bazaar
Buland Darwaza
This imposing entrance
doorway was
erected by one of
the Khilji rulers. A
flag is hoisted over
its ramparts to mark the
start of the Urs ceremony
held each October.
Dargah Bazaar
The long road that lies
outside the Nizam Gate,
the main entrance to the
Degs complex, is the location
Two enormous degs (iron cauldrons), one of a bustling market.
nearly 10 ft (3 m) in diameter, are used Colourful stalls and
during the Urs for cooking a special rice kiosks sell baskets of
pudding, tabarrukh. After they have been rose petals as well as
emptied, professional divers “loot” the degs chadors for devotees
by jumping in and scooping out the dregs. to offer at the dargah.
Raj-style bungalows that were

once the homes of the British
Resident and his entourage.
The nawabs were dedicated
patrons of art and literature. In
the late 19th century, the third
ruler established a grand centre
of Islamic art, now known as
the Maulana Abul Kalam Azad
Arabic and Persian Research
Institute. Its collection of rare
Arabic and Persian manuscripts
includes several illuminated
Korans, such as Aurangzeb’s
Alamgiri Koran Sharif and the
Koran-e-Kamal, prepared on the
A 15th-century manuscript, Arabic and Persian Research Institute, Tonk orders of Shah Jahan. There are
also translations of the epics, the
o Chaksu p Tonk Ramayana and the Mahabharata,
Jaipur district. 43 km (27 miles) Tonk district. 96 km (60 miles) S of
inscribed in exquisite Persian as
S of Jaipur on NH12. Road map C4. Jaipur on NH12. Road map C4. well as Arabic calligraphy.
* 35,000. @ _ Shitala Ashtami * 1,422,000. @ ( daily.
(Mar–Apr). _ Id (Feb–Mar). P Sunehri Kothi
Partially operational. Enquire at MAKA
This sleepy little village on The small principality of Tonk, Arabic & Persian Research Institute.
the road from Jaipur towards the only Muslim kingdom in P MAKA Arabic and
Sawai Madhopur is known Rajasthan, was created by the Persian Research Institute
for its small white temple British in the early 19th century Near new bus stand.
dedicated to Shitala Mata, the to appease the powerful Pathan Open 10am–5pm Mon–Sat.
goddess who wards off disease, warlord, Amir Khan. The legacy Closed Sun. Tel (01432) 24 7389.
especially smallpox. A hundred of its nawabs is evident
steps lead to the shrine, around throughout the old city. They
which devotees gather for a constructed the imposing Jami a Sawai Madhopur
gossip session after propitiating Masjid, as well as a number of Sawai Madhopur district.
the deity. Shitala Mata is much fine painted mansions, of which 172 km (107 miles) SE of Jaipur.
venerated in parts of rural the Sunehri Kothi (“golden Road map C4. * 121,000. @
Rajasthan where many diseases mansion”), built in 1824 by ( Mon–Sat. _ Shivaratri (Feb),
are still fatal. Every year in March Amir Khan in the old palace Ganesha Chaturthi (Aug–Sep).
or April a fair is held here, which complex, is the most spectacular.
attracts a large number of Magnificent enamelled mirror- An important railway
pilgrims. Food is cooked a work and gilded stucco cover junction and entry point to
day before Ashtami, the eighth the walls and ceilings of its the Ranthambhore National
and most auspicious day after jewel-like interior, the windows Park, Sawai Madhopur is named
the new moon, and offered are fitted with stained-glass and after its founder Sawai Madho
cold to the goddess to the floors beautifully painted. Singh I (r.1750–68). The historic
ensure her protection. The old city also has many 10th-century Ranthambhore
A cart stands outside a village hut on the outskirts of Sawai Madhopur

A rooftop view of the distant Indergarh Fort
Fort (now in the park), a strategic s Ranthambhore huddled beneath the ramparts
point on the main route to National Park of a picturesque hill fort which
Central India, was the scene of is clearly visible from the flat
many terrible battles between See pp228–9. rooftops of houses where, in
its Rajput chieftains and the summer, people sleep at night.
invading armies from Delhi Though dilapidated, some fort
and Agra. The fort was attacked d Indergarh areas still bear traces of
by Alauddin Khilji (see pp54–5) Kota district. 52 km (33 miles) S of
exquisite murals depicting
and later by Akbar in 1569. This Sawai Madhopur. Road map C4. colourful court scenes and
later battle has been glorified Indergarh Fort: Open 8am–5pm daily, legends. Indergarh’s two main
in Mughal miniatures and bards on request to the caretaker who lives temples, one dedicated to
have sung about the heroic below the fort. Donation optional. Bijasan Mata (a form of Durga)
deeds of its Rajput defenders. and the other to Kuanwalji
The fort was eventually This small town, founded (Lord Shiva), are popular places
handed over to the Amber by Raja Indrasal in 1605, lies of worship for pilgrims.
kings (see pp204–5). This jungle
fort, despite its ruined state, looks
daunting. Its massive gateways, Tale of the Tiger
ramparts and bastions make The tiger plays a major role
entry a tricky affair. Within in Indian myth, as a symbol
it is an 8th-century temple of supreme power, kingship
dedicated to Ganesha, whose and manhood. In Puranic legend
priest receives sacks of letters, it is Durga, the fearsome goddess
sometimes addressed simply to with ten arms, who rides a tiger and
“Shri Ganesha, Ranthambhore”, defeats the invincible buffalo-headed
especially during the marriage demon, Mahishasura. Yet, for all its
season, in order to invoke the aura of strength and power, the tiger
deity’s blessings. Clumps of grass, is a vulnerable creature today.
tied together by newly- Statistics claim that at the turn Durga riding a tiger, detail of a
weds for luck, are also seen of the 20th century, India’s tiger miniature painting
population was about 40,000, but
along the way to the fort temple.
by 1972, the figure had dropped to
roughly 1,800. This was when a special Task Force of the Indian
Environs Board for Wildlife constituted Project Tiger to address the alarming
About 37 km (24 miles) issue of dwindling tiger populations across the country. In the first
west of Sawai Madhopur year of Project Tiger, nine wildlife sanctuaries were declared tiger
is the sprawling Uniara Palace. reserves, one of them being Ranthambhore.
Further towards Tonk, past There are now 27 Project Tiger Reserves, and the number of
Hathi Bhata, a life-sized tigers has grown substantially, though persistent habitat destruction,
elephant carved out of a single illegal poaching and trading of tiger parts for medicinal and other
rock, is the picturesque Kakod derivatives in many Far Eastern countries continue to threaten
Fort. East of Sawai Madhopur, the life of this supreme predator.
is the vast Mansarovar Lake.

This park lies in the shadow of the Aravalli and Vindhya
mountain ranges and covers a core area of 400 sq km
(155 sq miles). Its razor-sharp ridges, deep boulder-filled
gorges, lakes and jungle are the habitat of carnivores such
as the caracal, panther, jackal and hyena, as well as species
of deer, and a rich variety of resident and migratory birds.
The most famous resident, however, is the endangered
tiger, and it is a unique experience to catch glimpses of
this majestic and fascinating animal. Like other parks in
Rajbagh
the region, this was originally the Jaipur state’s hunting Ruined pavilions stand
grounds and became a Project Tiger Reserve in 1973. on the banks of Rajbagh
Talao, one of the three
lakes in the park.
Ranthambhore Fort
The park derives its name from this great Rajput
jungle fort that is 1,000 years old and stands at Dausa
a height of 215 m (705 ft).
a
rd
ka
La
Malik
Talao
Padam Rajbagh
Talao Talao
Ranthambhore Jogi Mahal

Jaipur Fort
ley
Sawai
al
rV
Madhopur
pu
Tonk
ha
La
y
Sambar Stag le
al
Large herds of sambar t iV
ha
are seen around the lakes, lg
Na
wallowing in the water,
swimming and feeding on
aquatic plants, unperturbed
by jeeps and visitors. Mumbai
Man Sarovar
Banyan Tree
India’s second-largest
banyan tree (Ficus
bengalensis) lies in
the grounds of Jogi
Mahal. Its several 0 kilometres 5
spreading branches are
all supported by roots. 0 miles 2
Sawai Madhopur district.
130 km (81 miles) SE of Jaipur.
Road map C4. Tel 92127 77223/
Delhi 77225. n RTDC Hotel Vinayak,
Sawai Madhopur, (07462) 22
1333. Open Oct–Jun. Timings
vary, check website. Closed Jul–
Sep. & 8 = The Dastkari Kendra,
Tiger opposite Kutalpura village on way
Sighting the park’s main to Kundera. No walking. Only jeeps
predator is a matter of hired at Hotel Vinayak (which gives
chance, but traces of its permits) are allowed inside the park.
activities are often seen. ∑ ranthamborenationalpark.com
Transport
@ Sawai Madhopur.
Ban
as
Indian Roller Bird

This is one of the many
bird species found in the
park. The others include birds
of prey such as the crested
serpent eagle and Bonelli’s
eagle, and many species of
pigeons, flycatchers, storks
and waterbirds.
J
y
lle
Va Semli Valley
Lakarda
J Galai Sagar
Khandhar
J Fort
Lahapur
Marsh Crocodiles
Muggers, or marsh crocodiles, are commonly seen
submerged in water or basking on the shores of the
lakes. Ungulates are their main prey, and sometimes one
can glimpse a crocodile dragging the carcass of a deer
into the water. The monitor lizard and python are
some of the other reptiles found in the park.
Khatola
Sloth Bear
Key
This shaggy bear with
short hind legs and a
Major road long muzzle emerges
Park border at dusk to feed. During
the day it shelters in
Trails the rocky outcrops
and is difficult to sight.
TRAVELLERS’
NEEDS
Where to Stay 232–241

Where to Eat and Drink 242–257
Shops and Markets 258–263
Entertainment 264–265
Sports and Outdoor
Activities 266–269
232 TRAVELLERS’ NEEDS
WHERE TO STAY
Popularly known as the Golden triangle, leading Indian chains, to guesthouses and
the Delhi, Agra and Jaipur region receives the youth hostels. In addition, there are state-run
largest number of tourists in India. Naturally, tourist hotels, with comfortable board and
this area has a wide range of places to stay, lodging at reasonable rates. On the more exotic
though prices, particularly in Delhi and Agra, side are the grand old palaces and lovingly
can be higher than the rest of the country. restored havelis of the region which re-create
Jaipur and the rest of Rajasthan offers a huge the lavish lifestyles of former rulers and aristo-
variety of accommodation with a lot of cracy. For the budget traveller, there is a choice
competitively priced heritage and boutique of ashrams and small guest-houses, sometimes
options. The choice of accommodation with extremely basic facilities. For more
available throughout the region ranges from information on places to stay in this region,
upmarket luxury hotels run by international or refer to the detailed listings on pages 238–41.
Hotel Chains, Grading a wide range of

and Facilities services such as
At the top end of the range are a resident doctor,
the five-star deluxe hotels which shopping arcades
provide luxurious accommoda- and patisseries,
tion for the international visitor. banqueting halls, a
Many of these are part of national 24-hour coffee shop,
chains, such as Oberoi, ITC bars and gourmet
Hotels and Taj Group, or of restaurants. For the
international groups such as the business traveller,
Sheraton and Radisson. there are business
Below them are the four- and and conference
three-star hotels, guesthouses centres equipped
and tourist lodges, some of with computers for
which may offer additional personal use and High tea service at Jaipur’s Rambagh Palace (see p241)
facilities, such as a pool or tennis access to the Internet.
court. International television Desk jacks and modems are regular palmist, tarot card reader or
channels are generally available provided for personal computers astrologer. Even in the lower-priced
though some heritage and laptops. Wi-Fi is widely hotels and in older properties,
properties may not have available, although not always bathrooms are usually in Western
televisions at all. In Agra and free (strangely Wi-Fi is more style. Room service, safe deposits
Jaipur, palaces, bungalows and likely to be free in cheaper and daily laundry are standard
havelis have been converted accommodation). in more expensive places. The
into heritage hotels, which have Additional facilities include reception desk can advise on
been tastefully decorated and beauty parlours and fitness centres, tours, and large hotels have
furnished in traditional style. swimming pools and tennis travel agencies on the premises.
The hotels run by the large courts. The front desk can often
international and national chains make bookings for golf and other
are fully air-conditioned and offer activities. Some hotels even have a Luxury Hotels
India has many award-winning
luxury hotels which match
the best in the world in their
elegance, professional services,
and wide range of facilities.
Architecturally, many of
them have cleverly combined
traditional Indian and modern
design, while their interiors are
sumptuously decorated with
the best of Indian crafts and
textiles. A number of these
hotels are renowned for their
gourmet restaurants, stunning
spas and expansive grounds,
such as the Imperial in Delhi
Agra’s ITC Mughal, renowned for its innovative architecture (see p240) or Amarvilas in Agra.
Lavish interiors of award-winning restaurant, Spice Route, at The Imperial (see p238)
W H E R E TO S TAY 233
Heritage Hotels Budget Hotels and

Several palaces and stately homes, Tourist Lodges
particularly in Rajasthan, have been Budget hotels are usually found
restored and converted into hotels. in the older sections of cities,
These come under the banner near the railway and bus stations.
of Heritage Hotels Association You can also stay with families
of India. There is an amazing under the Paying Guest Scheme.
variety of these lovingly restored You can find short-term paying
palaces and haveli mansions in guest accommodation in Delhi
this region. These are classified through the Delhi Tourism Office
as grand, classic and ordinary, (see p275) or your travel agent.
and are priced accordingly. In Agra, the tourist information
counter at the railway station can Basic and typical dharamshala
supply addresses, and in Jaipur, in Haridwar
Middle-range Hotels Rajasthan Tourism (RTDC) has
These are three- and four-star an official and comprehensive list departments, and the national
establishments that may lack the of families under a good Paying India Tourism Development
stylish decor, slickness and range Guest Scheme administered by Corporation’s (ITDC) Ashok
of facilities of five-star hotels. them. There are many home- Group, make travelling to lesser-
Though smaller in size they are stays in this region and while known places easier. The rates are
always comfortable, clean and some offer only basic facilities, reasonable, and there is a choice
well-serviced. The rooms are there are other more opulent of dormitories as well as double
generally air-conditioned with versions. They also offer great rooms with attached bathrooms.
attached baths that have hot and food and often cookery classes.
cold running water. Some are Munjeeta Travel, based in the
surrounded by extensive gardens United Kingdom, can organize Guesthouses
and may even have cafés and Homestay Tours across India. The term “guesthouse” can be
business centres. Dharamshalas and ashrams are a misnomer. Both mid-range
Boutique hotels have also rest houses for pilgrims run by and budget hotels can have
become fashionable and are religious trusts, but anyone can “guesthouse” appended to their
quite welcoming. They offer stay, as in the International name, and so the prices and the
excellent accommodation; some Rest House in Brindavan, or services can vary enormously. If
are small chains, while many are Ramakrishna Mission and Sri you opt for a lower priced one,
independently operated. The Aurobindo Ashram in Delhi do make it a point to inspect
middle-range category also (see p235), provided the rules the room before checking in,
includes establishments that can of the place are strictly followed. especially the bathroom, which
be classified as great value and They charge absurdly low rates. may contain an Indian-style
offer modern and comfortable In cities, dharamshalas in the toilet. The better guesthouses
rooms. They are a reliable option older sections may have dubious all have air-conditioning and
and come equipped with most standards of hygiene, and the attached baths with Western
modern conveniences. Certain facilities can amount to a bare toilets. Many even offer service
hotels can be classified as rural room with no bedding, shared apartments with modern
retreats and offer guests a chance with others, along with the amenities. In Jaipur, some families
to immerse themselves in the local bathroom. The rates in Delhi have converted all or part of their
life of the region. Many of these are higher than in the rest of the large havelis into guesthouses,
hotels have unique settings and region. The wide network of providing meals on order.
have received local certifications for tourist “bungalows” or lodges
environmentally sensitive practices. established by state tourism
Youth Hostels
There is a network of youth hostels
across India, including the YWCA
and YMCA (see p275). They offer
very low rates, although the
YMCA’s are pricier with better
facilities and are found only in
selected cities. Though it is not
necessary to be a member of
Youth Hostel International to
gain entry, during the busy
season its members do get priority
and always get lower rates. Rooms
and dormitories are both usually
available, and the rules of the
Luxurious and spacious club room at Claridges, New Delhi (see p238) hostel must be respected.
National Parks and

Camping Sites
The national parks have
several places to stay in, but no
dedicated camping sites. At the
Pushkar fair grounds, Rajasthan
Tourism sets up a Tourist Village
on a large campsite and offers
cottages and tents during the
Pushkar season. A few hotels in
Rajasthan have fixed Rajasthani
tents which are extremely
luxurious. In Uttar Pradesh, apart
from private operators like award-
winning Aquaterra, there are river A view of the main swimming pool at the Rajvilas Hotel in Jaipur (see p241)
rafting campsites on the River
Ganges run by GMVN Rishikesh. from time to time. Sometimes, your room, and special
foreigners have to pay the dollar pay channels on television
room rate, plus any additional (you should read the screen
Prices and Discounts taxes on the listed price. This or your room service folder
Rates vary between cities, with is payable in foreign currency before pressing the remote).
Delhi and Agra being the most or in rupees. Hotels usually charge extra for
expensive, and the small town transport to and from the hotel.
hotels being very cheap at When telephoning, it is cheaper
times. The five-star luxury and Taxes to use the pay phones in the
the palace or heritage hotels Although the government has lobby or at outside STD booths
are at the top end of the scale abolished the 10 per cent hotel (see p284).
(although with the plethora of expenditure tax on rooms, it does
palaces in Rajasthan you can levy a luxury tax which varies from
find one to suit most budgets). state to state, from 5 to 20 per Booking, Checking In
Those run by the state tourism cent. Expect to pay luxury tax on and Out
development corporations the published tariff for fare on It is a good idea to make hotel
can vary from state to state, discounted rooms. VAT, about bookings well in advance,
with Delhi being the most 12.5 per cent in most states, has especially for the peak October
expensive. Prices at the guest- replaced the sales tax on food to March tourist season when
houses swing from high to low. and beverages. many conferences and cultural
Most hotels offer discounts festivals take place. You can email
during the low season from or telephone your requirements,
April to September. This can Hidden Extras but do insist that you are sent a
bring the original rates down Services for which you written confirmation. Check-out
by almost 50 per cent at times. may be charged extra could time is usually noon, though at
Every October, hotels raise their include bottles of mineral smaller establishments they are
rates by a nominal percentage. water, breakfast (although not so particular and calculate by
Various taxes are charged, over this is often included), laundry, the day. Before checking out, do
and above the listed rates, as extra bedding, telephone calls, study your bills carefully and
notified by the government emails and faxes, the mini bar in retain all the receipts. Most hotels
will take a copy of your passport
on arrival so it is a good idea to
have photocopies on you if you
do not want to part company
with your passport for any
period of time. There are often
extensive forms to be filled in
on check-in too.
Touts
At the airport or railway station
you may be besieged by touts
(see p259), many of whom
also operate as taxi and three-
wheeler drivers, who insist
on taking you to hotels where
Picturesque surroundings of the Glasshouse on the Ganges in Rishikesh (see p239) they get a commission. The best
solution is to have prior bookings.

Failing this, the tourism counter
at the airport or station will help
you find a place suitable to your
needs. If touts continue to pester
you, speak to the nearest
policeman. You may be told that
your hotel is full, burned down
or that there is a riot in that area –
be prepared to be persistent with
taxi or rickshaw drivers.
Facilities for Children Aesthetic living room of the grand presidential suite at Taj Palace, Delhi (see p238)
The staff at hotels are usually very
good with children. Many hotels levels within them, with no backpackers to business
will willingly add an extra bed for ramp or lifts for easy movement. travellers, and across as wide a
a child in your room at a small Do check out these facilities price range as possible for their
extra charge. Very few provide before making your bookings. excellent facilities, good location
baby-sitting services; you and usually great value. They
should check at the front desk, have been listed according to
but usually parents are expected Tipping region for your convenience
to look after their children. Most Tips are expected even though and will provide excellent
hotels do not have any special there may be a service charge accommodation and facilities
facilities for children. on bills. The amounts are at the based on your budget.
discretion of the guest, starting The hotels have broadly been
with ₹10 for car parking divided into seven categories:
Travellers with Disabilities attendants, slightly more for a Luxury, Heritage, Great Value,
Only the newer and fancier porter, and 10 per cent of the Boutique, Rural Retreat,
hotels make an effort to total bill for waiters. Some hotels Tourist Lodge and Guesthouse.
provide ramps, special lifts have a tip box in the lobby. Throughout our listings, we have
and wheelchairs for disabled marked recommended hotels as
travellers. However, you can DK Choice. These establishments
always seek the help of the staff. Recommended Hotels have been highlighted in
Many of the older hotels, The many hotels featured in recognition of an exceptional
especially in Rajasthan, which this guide have been selected feature – a stunning location,
are converted from palaces and keeping in mind a broad notable history, great ambience
private mansions, have several spectrum of travellers, from or outstanding value.
DIRECTORY
Hotel Chains Taj Group Tel (01483) 77 3331. Sri Aurobindo
Taj Mahal, Mansingh Rd, ∑ munjeetatravel.com Ashram
Ashok Group Delhi. Map 5 B3. Aurobindo Marg, Delhi.
Scope Complex, Core-8, 7 Tel (011) 2302 6162. RTDC
Tel (011) 2656 7863.
Lodhi Rd, Delhi. ∑ tajhotels.com Govt Hostel, MI Rd, ∑ sriaurobin-
Tel (011) 2436 0303. Oberoi Group Jaipur. Tel (0141) 237 1641.
∑ theashokgroup.com doashram.net
The Oberoi, Dr Zakir Hussain Swagatam Tourist
Marg, Delhi.Map 6 D4. Campus.
ITC Hotels Tel (011) 2389 0606. National
ITC Maurya, Sardar Patel ∑ oberoihotels.com Tel (0141) 511 0598. Parks and
Marg, New Delhi. Camping Sites
Tel (011) 2611 2233. Heritage Hotels Dharamshalas
∑ itchotels.in Aquaterra
Heritage Hotels and Ashrams Adventures
Sheraton Association of India S–507, Greater Kailash II,
Mandawa Haveli, Sansar International
District Centre, Saket, Delhi. Tel (011) 2921
New Delhi. Chandra Rd, Jaipur. Rest House
Tel (0141) 237 1194. Shri Krishna-Balaram 2641. ∑ aquaterra.in
Tel (011) 4266 1122.
∑ starwoodhotels. ∑ indianheritage Temple, Brindavan. GMVN Tourist Office
com/sheraton hotels.com
Tel (0565) 254 0021. Muni-ki-Reti, Rishikesh.
Radisson Paying Guest Ramakrishna Mission Tel (0135) 243 0799.
Accommodation Ramakrishna Ashram ∑ gmvni.com
National Highway 8,
Mahipalpur Rd, Delhi. Munjeeta Travel Marg, Delhi. Tourist Village
Tel (011) 2677 9191. 12 Cavendish Rd, Woking, Tel (011) 2358 7110. Pushkar.
∑ radissonblu.com Surrey GU22 OEP, UK. ∑ rkmdelhi.org Tel (0145) 277 3074.
Heritage Hotels
The title “heritage hotel” is given to some palaces and
havelis that have been discreetly modernized to meet
the needs of international travellers and run as high-
class hotels. Fitted with modern plumbing and air-
conditioning and with facilities such as swimming
pools and tennis courts, such hotels take care that
their history, architecture and innate elegance are Neemrana Fort Palace, Neemrana
suitably highlighted. The interiors display old sepia Built in 1464, this fort was one of
photographs, memorabilia and exquisite furniture India’s first heritage hotels. Meticulously
tended by a caring staff, often old family retainers. restored to recreate the original plan
and architecture, its interior is an eclectic
The high tariffs of such hotels are compensated for by blend of traditional design and its
their special ambience. modern interpretations (see p241).
Castle Mandawa, Mandawa

This mid-18th century fortress
is now a charming heritage hotel
and an ideal base to explore the Hisar
painted havelis of Shekhawati.
Live entertainment by Rajasthani
folk dancers and musicians, and
camel rides are some of its
attractions (see p241).
Mandawa
Neemrana
Sikar
Alwar
Samode Palace, Samode Samode

All the grandeur of royal Jaipur
Rajasthan is visible in this
opulent painted palace.
Its magnificent Durbar Pushkar JAIPUR AND
Hall and Sheesh Mahal are ENVIRONS
Ajmer
now reception areas where
guests can dine (see p241).
Tonk Sawai Madhopur
Hotel Pushkar Palace, Pushkar

The lake-side palace, once the property of the
Maharaja of Kishangarh, is now a popular hotel Narain Niwas Palace, Jaipur
in this temple town. Its location is ideal for views Surrounded by sprawling gardens
of the bathing ghats, the rugged Aravalli Hills and mango orchards, this traditional
and the town’s 400 temples. palace was built in 1928.
The Hill Fort, Kesroli

This seven-turreted fort is
believed to be 600 years old.
Built on top of a small hillock,
it commands a splendid view
from its high ramparts and
is a perfect base from which
to visit neighbouring sites
and sanctuaries.
Dehra Dun
0 kilometres 100
0 miles 50
Panipat
NORTH OF
DELHI
DELHI
Laxmi Vilas Palace, Bharatpur Located near the

Keoladeo National Park, the palace was built in 1899
for the women of the royal family. The architecture
is a mix of Mughal and Rajput styles. Spacious airy
Mathura rooms are furnished with period furniture and the
courtyards are decorated with colourful frescoes.
Agra
Bharatpur
Gwalior
AGRA AND AROUND
Jhansi
Usha Kiran Palace, Gwalior

The Maharaja of Gwalior’s official guesthouse is now
a pleasant hotel with an old-world charm (see p240).
Where to Stay
Claridges  Price Guide
Delhi Luxury Map 5 A3 Prices are based on one night's stay in
12 Aurangzeb Rd high season for a standard double room,
New Delhi Tel (011) 3955 5000 inclusive of service charges and taxes.
Prince Polonia  ∑ claridges.com  up to 4000
Great Value Map 1 B3 Stylish rooms at this slightly old-  4000 to 10000
 over 10000
2325–26 Tilak Gali, off Main world hotel. Outdoor pool and
Bazaar Paharganj an array of dining options.
Tel (011) 4762 6600 The Park 
∑ hotelprincepolonia.com ITC Maurya  Boutique Map 1 C5
Situated in a busy backpacker area Luxury Map 3 B4 15 Parliament Street
conveniently close to Connaught Diplomatic Enclave, Sardar Patel Tel (011) 2374 3000
Place. Modern facilities, free Wi- Marg ∑ theparkhotels.com
Fi, and a rooftop swimming pool. Tel (011) 2611 2233 Close to the historic Jantar Mantar,
∑ itchotels.in the hotel has an array of stylish
YWCA Blue Triangle  Premier hotel that has an exquisite rooms and good restaurants.
Great Value Map 1 B5 art collection and smart rooms. Rejuvenate at the spa or the pool.
Ashoka Rd, Connaught Place Favoured choice for state guests
Tel (011) 2336 0133 and foreign dignitaries. Enjoy fine Vivanta by Taj 
∑ ywcaofdelhi.org dining at the popular Dum Pukht. Luxury Map 5 B3
Clean, basic rooms and a friendly, Sujan Singh Park, Subramania
safe atmosphere. Recommended Maiden's  Bharti Marg
by young, female travellers. Heritage Tel (011)6626 1000
7 Sham Nath Marg, Old Delhi ∑ vivantabytaj.com
YWCA International  Tel (011) 2397 5464 At a stone’s throw away from Lodi
Great Value Map 1 B5 ∑ maidenshotels.com Gardens and Khan Market, this
10 Parliament Street Established in 1903, this is one of hotel has smart decor, great
Tel (011) 2334 5235 Delhi’s oldest hotels with classic style restaurants and a lovely pool.
∑ ywcaindia.org and great views of the Delhi Ridge.
Comfortable, basic rooms at this
centrally located hostel. Good for Taj Palace  Nizamuddin
solo women travellers. Luxury Map 3 A4 B Nineteen 
Diplomatic Enclave, Sardar Patel Boutique Map 6 E5
Jyoti Mahal  Marg B–19 Nizamuddin East
Boutique Map 1 B3 Tel (011)2 611 0202 Tel (011) 4182 5500
2488–90 Nalwa Street, Chuna ∑ tajhotels.com ∑ bnineteen.com
Mandi, off Main Bazaar, Paharganj A beautiful location and elegant Set against Humayun Tomb, this
Tel (011) 2358 0523 rooms complemented with modern lovely B&B has comfortable rooms
∑ jyotimahal.net facilities. A lovely place for high tea. and facilitates access to kitchen.
Excellent heritage-style property
in a central location. Stylish decor The Lodhi 
and a lovely rooftop restaurant. DK Choice Luxury
The Imperial  Lodhi Road Map 5 C4
Master Bed & Breakfast  Luxury Map 1 C5 Tel (0124) 465 3333
Boutique 1 Janpath (close to ∑ thelodhi.com
R–500 New Rajender Nagar Connaught Place) Formerly the Aman, this opulent
Tel (011) 2874 1089 Tel (011)2334 1234 property has rooms with private
∑ master-guesthouse.com ∑ theimperialindia.com plunge pools and balconies.
A delightful option with just three Experience a graceful confluence
stylish rooms and lovely com- of the colonial heritage and the
munal areas. Delicious breakfast. magnificence of modern Delhi
at this hotel. Designed as a part
Palace Heights  of Lutyen’s vision of Delhi, this
Great Value Map 1 C5 elegant hotel has hosted Gandhi
D26–28 Connaught Place and Nehru while they discussed
Tel (011)4546 0000 issues related to India’s indepen-
∑ palaceheights.com dence. Today it offers evocative
This plush property, at an enviable charm, nostalgic decor, award-
location in the heart of Connaught winning restaurants, world-class
Place, offers stylish rooms and a spa and every modern amenity.
good restaurant, Zaffran.
Ahuja Residency  The Oberoi 

Guesthouse Map 5 B4 Luxury Map 6 D4
193 Golf Links Dr Zakir Hussain Marg
Tel (011) 2461 1027 Tel (011) 2389 0606
∑ ahujaresidency.com ∑ oberoihotels.com
Stylish, spacious rooms with Impressive hotel with views of the
modern amenities. Also offers Delhi Golf Course and Humayun’s Elegant decor of the bar, InSomnia, at
service apartments across Delhi. Tomb. Fantastic Sunday brunch. Vivanta by Taj, Delhi
Old Delhi
Hotel Broadway 
Heritage Map 2 E3
4/15A Asaf Ali Rd (Near Delhi Gate)
Tel (011) 4366 3600
∑ hotelbroadwaydelhi.com
Stylish, with old-world charm and
themed restaurants. Organizes
heritage walks of Old Delhi.
South Delhi
Tree of Life B&B 
Guesthouse
D–193, Saket A spacious and exquisite room at The Imperial, Delhi
Tel 981 027 7699
∑ tree-of-life.in RISHIKESH: Rainforest House 
Close to the Saket metro station North of Delhi Rural Retreat
and the Qutb Minar, this B&B offers HARIDWAR: Teerth  Badrinath Rd, Brahmpuri
comfort and modern amenities. Great Value Tel 800 677 9298
Subhash Ghat, Har-ki-Pauri ∑ rainforest-house.com
Amarya Villa  Tel (0133) 422 5211 Beautiful, quiet oasis with stylish
Boutique ∑ hotelteerth.com rooms and a lovely café serving
A–2/20, Safdarjung Enclave Basic accommodation close to the classic Italian and local cuisine.
Tel (011) 4103 6184 Ganges, with rooms offering views
∑ amaryagroup.com of the main ghat, Har-ki-Pauri. RISHIKESH: Ananda 
Stylish three-storey villa offers nine Luxury
spacious rooms, each themed on HARIDWAR: Haveli Hari Narendra Nagar, Tehri Garhwal
one of nine auspicious gemstones Ganga  Tel (0124) 451 6650
or navratna. Pretty terrace garden. Luxury ∑ anandaspa.com
Pilibhit House, 21 Ramghat Try this award-winning spa-resort
The Manor  Tel (0133) 426 5207 with great views, for ayurvedic
Luxury ∑ havelihariganga.com and holistic treatments.
77 Friends Colony West Right on the river, a lovely hotel
Tel (011) 4323 5151 with option for yoga on the ghats. RISHIKESH: Glasshouse on the
∑ themanordelhi.com Ganges 
Charming hotel with lovely grounds. RISHIKESH: Bhandari Swiss Heritage
Acclaimed fine-dining restaurant, Cottage  23rd Milestone Badrinath Rd,
Indian Accent. Modern amenities. Great Value Gular-Dogi
High Bank, Tapovan Bypass Rd Tel 941 207 6420
The Rose  Tel (0135) 243 2939 ∑ neemranahotels.com
Boutique ∑ bhandariswisscottage.com Exclusive resort with classic rooms
T–40 Hauz Khas Village Picturesque views across the river and a private beach. Garden with
Tel (011) 6450 0001 and valley. Basic rooms with a tropical plants and rare birds.
∑ therosenewdelhi.com verandah and a good restaurant.
Homely yet modern hotel with
contemporary decor, lovely café RISHIKESH: Divine Ganga
and an art gallery. Lively ambience. Cottages  Agra and Around
Rural Retreat AGRA: Amar Yatri Niwas 
Tapovan, Laxman Jhula Tourist Lodge
Tel (0135) 244 2175 181/1, Tourist Complex Area,
Further Afield ∑ divinegangacottage.com Fatehabad Rd,
The Leela Ambience Renovated rooms with great views Tel (0562) 223 3030
Gurgaon  and a charming garden restaurant. ∑ amaryatriniwas.com
Luxury This hotel offers spacious rooms
Ambience Island, Gurgaon and an on-site café and restaurant.
Tel (0124) 477 1234 DK Choice
∑ theleela.com RISHIKESH: Camp Silver AGRA: Mayur Tourist Complex 
Elegant property featuring fully Sands  Tourist Lodge
serviced rooms and residences, Rural Retreat Fatehabad Rd
award-winning restaurants, pool Beach no. 12, Badrinath Rd Tel (0562) 403 2310
and spa. Next to Ambience Mall. Tel (011) 2921 2760 ∑ mayurcomplex.com
∑ aquaterra.in Little cottages with lawns and a
Tikli Bottom  A perfect place to relax, swimming pool. Basic amenities.
Rural Retreat rejuvenate and be one with
Tikli Bottom, Gairatpur Bas, Gurgaon nature. Tented camps on the AGRA: Hotel Taj Plaza 
Tel 931 337 0853 river bank with campfire and Great Value
∑ tiklibottom.com delicious food. Enjoy white-water Taj East Gate Rd
Lutyens-style four-bedroom rafting and adventure sports Tel (0562) 694 1550
haveli, surrounded by farmland. with one of the most acclaimed ∑ tajplaza.in
Food is sourced from the adventure companies in India. Comfortable rooms with great
organic farm; pool facilities. rooftop views of the Taj Mahal.
For more information on types of hotels see page 235
BHARATPUR: Birder’s Inn  GWALIOR: Usha Kiran

Boutique Palace 
Bird Sanctuary Rd Heritage
Tel (0564) 422 7346 Jayendraganj Lashkar
∑ birdersinn.com Tel (0751) 244 4000
Nestled close to the Keoladeo ∑ tajhotels.com
National Park, this renovated lodge Housed in a century-old palace,
has stylish rooms and lush gardens. this regal property has an array of
stylish rooms and a lovely spa.
BHARATPUR: Chandra Mahal
Palace  MATHURA: Abhinanden 
Heritage Great Value
Peharsar, Jaipur–Agra Rd Goverdhan Chauraha NH 2
Tel (011) 2506 6241 Tel 976 086 6595
∑ heritagehotelsofindia.com ∑ hotelabhinandan.com
Well-appointed rooms with Comfortable hotel with spacious
antique furniture and interiors rooms and contemporary decor.
Lush interiors of a room at Usha Kiran inspired by Mughal architecture. Modern amenities.
Palace, Gwalior
BHARATPUR: Royal Farm  ORCHHA: Orchha Homestay 
AGRA: Howard Plaza  Rural Retreat Rural Retreat
Great Value Village Barso, Fatehpur Sikri Rd Lakshmi Mandir Rd, Ganj Mohalla
Fatehabad Rd Tel 941 431 5457 Tel 999 338 5405
Tel (0562) 404 8600 ∑ royalguesthousebharatpur.com ∑ orchha.org
∑ howardplazaagra.com Comfortable homestay owned by Five simple and comfortable
A range of rooms with modern naturalists working at Keoladeo rooms, offering an opportunity to
amenities including gym, pool, Park. Food with ingredients from live with locals and gain a unique
spa and good on-site restaurant. organic garden. Guesthouse also. cultural experience. Homely meals.
Cycle tours and walks on request.
BRINDAVAN: Bhaktivedanta
DK Choice Ashrama & MVT Guest House  ORCHHA: Sheesh Mahal
AGRA: Amarvilas  Guesthouse MPTDC 
Luxury Bhaktivedanta Swami Marg Heritage
Taj East Gate Rd Raman-Reti Jahangir Mahal,
Tel (0562) 223 1515 Tel 999 772 5666 Tel (0768) 025 2624
∑ oberoihotels.com ∑ mvtindia.com ∑ heritagehotelsofindia.com
Elegant rooms with private Ideally located behind the famous Government-run property, offers
balconies and glorious views of ISKCON temple, simple and lovely rooms with a combination
the iconic Taj Mahal. Rich decor comfortable rooms at this retreat of old-world charm and modern
inspired by the Taj. Unwind at with manicured lawns. facilities. On-site restaurant.
the spa, relax by the pool, and
dine at two acclaimed restaurants. DHOLPUR: Raj Niwas
Palace 
Heritage Jaipur and Environs
AGRA: Grand Imperial  Dholpur AJMER: Heritage Haveli Inn 
Heritage Tel 766 5002 151 Guesthouse
MG Rd ∑ dholpurpalace.com Kutchery Rd
Tel (0562) 225 1190 Grand red sandstone palace Tel (0145) 262 1607
∑ hotelgrandimperial.com with lavish interiors, luxurious ∑ haveliheritageinn.com
Well-appointed rooms with four- rooms and manicured gardens. Housed in a 150-year-old building,
poster beds. Vintage decor this friendly B&B has a range of
inspired by the Mughal era. FATEHPUR SIKRI: Goverdhan rooms; home-cooked food.
Tourist Complex 
AGRA: ITC Mughal  Tourist Lodge ALWAR: Dadhikar Fort 
Luxury Shahcoolie, Fatehpur Sikri Heritage
Fatehabad Rd Tel (05613) 282 643 Dadhikar Village
Tel (0562) 402 1700 ∑ fatehpursikriviews.com Tel 995 044 9900
∑ itchotels.in Well-equipped rooms set around ∑ dadhikarhotels.com
Award-winning hotel set in a beautiful, central garden. Enjoy Perched on a hilltop, this stunning
verdant gardens. Opulent scenic views and food at the fort with elegant rooms provides
property with charming rooms multi-cuisine restaurant. the perfect getaway from hectic
and excellent service. city life. Traditional local cuisine.
GWALIOR: Deo Bagh
BHARATPUR: Bharatpur Hotel  CHURU: Malji Ka Kamra 
Ashoka - Forest  Heritage Heritage
Tourist Lodge Opposite Janaktal, Agra–Mumbai Behind Jain Market, Churu,
Inside Keoladeo National Park Highway Shekhawati
Tel (0564) 422 2722 Tel (0751) 282 0357 Tel (01562) 25 4514
∑ forestlodgebharatpur.com ∑ neemranahotels.com ∑ maljikakamra.com
Experience nature from this sylvan Luxurious property with opulent Renovated 20th-century haveli,
retreat in the bird sanctuary. Rooms rooms and exquisite interiors. with magnificent rooms and
with balconies. Row boats to get Serene ambience and magnificent stunning frescoes. Traditional
you closer to nature and birds. views of Char Bagh and Nau Bagh. cuisine and grand sunset views.
Key to Price Guide see page 238
JAIPUR: Hotel Pearl Palace  JAIPUR: Samode Haveli  NEEMRANA: Neemrana
Great Value Luxury Fort Palace 
51 Hathroi Fort, Hari Kishan Gangapole Luxury
Somani Marg Tel (0141) 263 2407 Neemrana Village, 122nd Milestone,
Tel (0141) 237 3700 ∑ samode.com Delhi–Jaipur Highway
∑ hotelpearlpalace.com Aesthetic rooms and heritage Tel (01494) 24 6007
A range of rooms with intricate suites with lavish decor. Charming ∑ neemranahotels.com
artwork, and modern amenities. garden views. State-of-the-art spa. Relax at the luxurious rooms with
Friendly service; rooftop restaurant. unique themes or be adventurous
JAIPUR: The Farm  with camel rides and zip-lining.
JAIPUR: Diggi Palace  Boutique
Heritage Pritvisinghpura, Dhankiya Rd, Bad ke PUSHKAR: Inn Seventh Heaven 
Diggi House, Shivaji Marg, C-Scheme balaji, Ajmer highway Boutique
Tel (0141) 237 3091 Tel 982 802 3030 Next to Mali ka Mandir, Chotti Basti
∑ hoteldiggipalace.com ∑ thefarmjaipur.com Tel (0145) 510 5455
Spacious rooms with a blend of Charming rooms with eclectic art ∑ inn-seventh-heaven.com
old-world charm and modern decor and quirky design features Restored ancient haveli with
luxury. Hosts the famous Jaipur such as tables made from Enfield beautiful themed rooms and
Literary Festival. Cookery courses. motorbikes. Large grounds. fantastic rooftop restaurant.
JAIPUR: Mosaic Guest House  KISHANGARH: Phool Mahal SAMODE: Samode Palace 
Rural Retreat Palace  Heritage
Siyaram Ki Doongri, Amber Heritage Samode Village, Tehsil Chomu
Tel (0141) 253 0031 Phool Mahal Palace Tel (01423) 240 014
∑ mosaicsguesthouse.com Tel (01463) 24 7405 ∑ samode.com
Beautiful guesthouse adorned ∑ royalkishangarh.com Upscale property that blends
with mosaic artwork by the French With the majestic Kishangarh Fort traditional decor and modern
owner. Rooftop lounge with grand as the backdrop, comfortable luxury. Beautiful rooms and suites.
views of the Amber Fort. rooms; striking frescoes.
SARISKA: Sariska Tiger Camp 
JAIPUR: Pratap Bhavan B&B  Rural Retreat
Guesthouse DK Choice Village Dhawala, Jaipur Rd
A–4 Pratap Bhawan, Jamnalal Bajaj MANDAWA: Mandawa Tel (0144) 288 5311
Marg, C-scheme Haveli  ∑ sariskatigercamp.com
Tel 982 907 4354 Heritage A good option for the family, this
∑ pratapbhawan.com Near Sonthaliya Gate, Mandawa hotel offers comfortable rooms,
Lovely homestay with traditional Tel (0141) 237 4112 grounds and swimming pool.
decor and modern facilities. Wild- ∑ mandawahotels.com
life photography tours and walks Beautifully restored haveli with SAWAI MADHOPUR:
can be organised by the owners. incredible frescoes, combining Ranthambhore Bagh 
old-world charm and modern Rural Retreat
JAIPUR: Umaid Bhawan  facilities. Rooms are lavishly Ranthambhore Rd
Boutique designed. Central courtyard and Tel 823 9166 777
D1–2A, behind Collectorate, a good option for rooftop dining. ∑ ranthambhorebagh.com
(Via) Bank Rd, Bani Park Enjoy splendid views of the Run by a wildlife photographer;
Tel (0141) 231 6184 Nahargarh Fort from the terrace. offers both rooms and luxury
∑ umaidbhawan.com tents. Fantastic campfire dinners.
Elegant hotel with exquisitely
painted interiors and traditional NAWALGARH: Apani Dhani  SAWAI MADHOPUR: Sher
handicrafts. Rooftop restaurant Rural Retreat Bagh 
and courtyard swimming pool. Old Jhunjhunu Rd, Nawalgarh, Luxury
Shekhawati Sherpur–Khiljipur Village
JAIPUR: Rajvilas  Tel (01594) 22 2239 Tel 746 225 2120
Luxury ∑ apanidhani.com ∑ sujanluxury.com
Oberoi Rajvilas Relax at this ecolodge with Unwind in wilderness at this
Tel (0141) 268 0101 comfortable rooms. Winner of tented safari camp. Pool,
∑ oberoihotels.com 2013 Responsible Tourism Award. campfire and jungle spa.
Sprawling, large, royal resort
in a beautiful fort setting.
Magnificent suites, luxury tents
and landscaped gardens.
JAIPUR: Rambagh Palace 

Heritage
Bhawani Singh Rd
Tel (0141) 238 5700
∑ tajhotels.com
Relax and unwind at this palatial
hotel, embodying opulence and
a sense of history. A range of
beautifully appointed rooms with
unique themes. Rejuvenate at
the regal Jiva Spa. The magnificent Rambagh Palace, Jaipur
For more information on types of hotels see page 235
WHERE TO EAT AND DRINK

The unique flavours of Indian food depend different from what is cooked at home. The
heavily on the imaginative blend of spices search for new culinary experiences has led
and the use of fresh ingredients. Once, to the proliferation of excellent speciality
availability of local fruits and vegetables restaurants, as well as fast food and pizza
dictated menus in restaurants, which meant parlours. These newer, fancier, and more
that a standard restaurant would offer a cosmopolitan establishments have added to
seasonally-changing choice of Mughlai the eating-out scene, but traditional Indian
preparations and a smattering of colonial food, such as succulent kebabs, rich aromatic
fare, such as roast lamb with mint sauce, curries, or even the simple dal and roti served
fried fish, and vegetables au gratin. Today, at dhabas, still remain popular. The listings
eating habits, especially in Delhi, have become of restaurants on pages 250–57 are organized
much more sophisticated, and most Indians, by area to help visitors choose where and
when they dine out, prefer food that is quite what kind of food they wish to eat.
gutta curry (curry made with

yoghurt). Delhi and Agra have
many restaurants that serve
delicious Mughlai or Punjabi
meals, prepared using
traditional age-old recipes.
Coffee Shops
All big hotels have 24-hour
coffee shops where guests can
get snacks and light meals.
Western coffee shop chains
such as Costa Coffee and
Coffee bars and fast food outlets in Connaught Place, New Delhi Starbucks can be found around
Delhi. At busy market places,
Restaurants or early meals are best had at there are also coffee shop-like
There is an array of eateries in the 24-hour coffee shops found cafés that are open from 10am
Delhi, ranging from snack bars inside the hotels. to midnight, offering a variety of
in markets to speciality refreshments and simple multi-
restaurants in luxury hotels. cuisine dishes that may range
Every commercial area has Speciality Restaurants from Indian to Indianized
mobile vans which offer low- Upmarket restaurants that Western and Chinese. It is safer
priced sandwiches, burgers and specialize in international to order the more common
Indian-style Chinese chowmein cuisines such as Japanese, dishes, and to avoid the fish and
and soups. South Indian eating Italian and Spanish are prawns specials.
places are widespread and immensely popular, particularly
good value for money with a in Delhi. Most of these
wide choice of dishes. Other restaurants are in luxury hotels,
places specialize in North Indian though a few independent
tandoori meats and fish. Many ones are located in places such
of the American fast food giants, as the Hauz Khas Village and
such as Pizza Hut, McDonald’s Greater Kailash in Delhi. Diva,
and Dominos are firm favourites run by gastronome Ritu Dalmia,
in the capital. Agra and Jaipur is one such restaurant. It serves
also have a wide range of excellent Italian fare. The prices
restaurants where good quality may be a bit steep, but the
international cuisine is served. food and stylish ambience are
The five-star hotels here house worth it. Visitors can also find
some exceptional fine-dining authentic Tibetan and
restaurants. Most places are Mediterranean food in select
open from 11am to midnight. It places. Most restaurants in
is a good idea to book in Jaipur serve traditional
advance for the popular Rajasthani dishes such as the A light prosciutto starter at Diva in Greater
gourmet restaurants. Late hour kej sangari (desert beans) or Kailash, New Delhi
W H E R E TO E AT A N D D R I N K 243
Prices and Tipping

Prices are fixed everywhere,
even at roadside stalls. At luxury
hotels, the rates are high and
there are added taxes, but
eating at most restaurants and
coffee shops is generally
affordable, and at the roadside
stalls, it is quite cheap. The
prices are always listed on the
menu and diners should cross-
check the figures on the bill.
Waiters do expect to be tipped,
and ten per cent of the bill is an
Breakfast on the ramparts of Kesroli Fort appropriate amount.
Roadside and Market meant to advise pure

Food Stalls vegetarians. Cake shops also Recommended
The roadside food stalls or advertise eggless cakes. In the Restaurants
dhabas offer a typical Indian holy cities of Haridwar, Rishikesh Delhi, Agra and Jaipur offer an
meal, which includes a couple and Pushkar, restaurants will not impressive range of cuisines,
of basic curries, usually serve eggs, meat and alcohol. from Italian and Mediterranean
vegetarian, and hot rotis. to Japanese and Korean.
However, it should be kept in Traditional Indian fare includes
mind that the dishes are made Alcohol North Indian as well as South
to suit an Indian palate, which There are strict restrictions on Indian dishes that have rich,
prefers spicy food; when serving alcohol in the Delhi, flavourful curries and soft, fluffy
ordering, insist that the meal be Agra, and Jaipur region, and whole-grain breads. Modern or
made without the spices. It is only restaurants and hotels contemporary Indian cooking
advisable to eat at stalls that with a liquor permit are experiments with the old, classic
appear to have a rapid turnover, allowed to serve alcoholic recipes to create innovative,
as the food will be freshly drinks, though there are liquor delectable food. The following
cooked. For health precautions, shops in all cities. A few places listings place restaurants in six
see page 281. Visitors could also are licensed to serve only beer. geographical areas: New Delhi,
try the local savoury and sweet Larger hotels have their own Old Delhi, South Delhi, North of
shops that serve an assortment bars and sell both “Indian-Made Delhi, Agra and Around, and
of fried snacks such as potato Foreign Liquor” (whisky, rum, Jaipur and Environs, and they
and flour fingerlings, spiced gin, vodka and beer), as well as have been carefully selected to
nuts and delicious, syrupy many foreign brands. Drinking cater to all tastes and preferences.
sweets. Kulfi (Indian ice cream) one’s own liquor in a restaurant The specially recommended
and the regional specialities of is not permitted. Selling and restaurants, marked as DK Choice,
Rajasthan such as pyaaz kachori buying alcohol on the 1st and stand out for the unique
(fried pastry filled with spiced 7th of each month, national experience they offer– either
onions) are also recommended. holidays and notified election the superb cuisine, a delightful
Most Indian cities have become days is also prohibited and ambience, excellent value, or a
quite tourist friendly, with food these are hence, “dry days”. combination of these.
stalls offering a variety of
Western-style soups and salads,
as well as baked delicacies.
The majority of the menus
are written in English.
Vegetarian Food
Most roadside food stalls in
India are strictly vegetarian.
Delhi, Agra and Jaipur have
excellent vegetarian restaurants,
which include the ubiquitous
South Indian eateries that offer
vegetarian thalis. Some of them
display signs that read: “Cooked
in pure ghee” or “Cooked in ghee
made from cow’s milk” which is A roadside stall selling popular street food in Agra
The Flavours of Delhi, Agra and Jaipur

This region’s traditional food is renowned for its range. Delhi’s
finest flavours are preserved in Mughlai cuisine and a long
heritage of vegetarian fare. Jaipur and Agra are famous for
spicy snack foods, made fragrant with cloves, cardamom and
pepper, with spice levels toned down for the faint-hearted.
Tandoori food (see pp246–7), still considered a culinary upstart
by traditionalists, is increasingly popular today. The wide
variety of delicately flavoured milk sweets must also be
Bayleaves, cinnamon, cardamom, cumin,
tasted to experience the full talents of the region’s cooks.
cloves and turmeric
way here to savour the it. No visitor to Delhi should

authentic Mughlai dishes, miss the colours and smells of
still cooked in huge brass pots its fruit and vegetable markets.
over wood fires. Often tucked Vendors sing out bargain
away in smoky warrens, these prices to tempt buyers, while
modest places are an essential keeping a sharp eye out for
part of the authentic Delhi competitors. For centuries,
culinary experience. Spices the Indian street stalls have
are ground fresh each day and provided the raw materials for
their heady smells float out gifted cooks. Spices are an
as they are lovingly cooked. integral part of the culinary
Stuffed bread (paratha) is tradition and each region has
another Old Delhi speciality – its own secret combinations
Fresh local produce on a stall in a Delhi it even has a lane named after and recipes.
vegetable market
Naan Lachcha Paratha
Missi Roti Poori
Delhi Garlic Naan
Delhi, with its wide variety of
Indian and foreign residents,
offers food from virtually every
part of India, as well as abroad.
However, its unique culinary Bhatura
heritage is preserved in ancient
recipes, handed down through
generations of chefs and
served in the Old City’s Lachcha Paratha
eateries. Even prime ministers Pudina (with mint)
are known to have made their A small selection from the vast range of Indian breads
Regional Dishes and Specialities

Most of the food in this region is classified as
vegetarian or non-vegetarian and, broadly, it
reflects the traditional Hindu and Muslim
culinary styles. Curried or dry vegetables
are served with a range of breads.
Found throughout the region, the aloo
poori, along with the paratha, appears
at breakfast or a main meal. Mutton
(which can mean goat meat too in
India) and chicken form the core of
Mughlai food, often served in curried
Mint and chillies stews such as korma and rogan josh.
Stewed lentils, called dal, are the staple comfort Poori are puffy, deep-fried
food throughout North India and are eaten with rice or bread. breads, served with spicy
Milk is the main ingredient of desserts, often dressed temptingly potato (aloo) or other
with delicate silver sheets and slivers of nuts. vegetable, curried or dry.
in huge woks from morning to

night and served on leaf plates.
Lal maas, a rich, red mutton
dish, is the region’s signature
offering, along with the
vegetarian gatta curry. Millet
breads (bajra rotis), served with
chutneys, local vegetables and
berries, are another speciality.
Curds, set overnight in clay
vessels, are churned with sugar
and cardamom to make a frothy
drink called lassi. This is often
served in delicate terracotta
cups which, like leaf plates,
Fiery red chillies being dried before being ground into powder reflect ancient practices that
helped to conserve precious
Agra Jaipur water in a desert region.
In Agra, almost every neighbour- Be prepared to have your
hood or market has a halwai palate tickled with robust BAZAAR FOOD
shop. This is the Indian version flavours when you eat in Jaipur.
of a deli, except that you will Rajasthani food, vegetarian or The sizzle of ghee on hot griddles,
only find vegetarian food and not, is robust and highly spiced. the splutter of spices as they are
sweets here. It is possible to Fresh batches of the round added and the aromas of food
get a full meal, served on a onion masala kachauri are fried cooked lovingly in huge vats
and pans are traditional bazaar
thali, or just a savoury snack.
wiles to tempt customers. As for
A typical thali meal will
curries, there is a bewildering
include dal, curried potatoes,
variety to choose from: from the
pumpkin and other seasonal
rich red of the mutton korma,
vegetables. Pooris and rice are served with a range of breads,
eaten with the curried or dry to the turmeric based karhi with
vegetables, along with raita, yellow dumplings, served with
chutneys and pickles, served rice. Food courts with a range of
in small bowls. Thalis are regional and traditional cuisines
modestly priced. have sprung up close to these
Halwai shops are rather bazaars and attract customers
sophisticated now: levels all day. Food may be washed
of hygiene have improved, down with hot, sweet, milky
and bottled water is available. masala chai (tea flavoured
Service is prompt and orders with cinnamon, cardamom
are yelled across to the kitchen, Bazaar vendor cooking samosas in and ginger).
usually situated at the back. a tawa (wok)
Korma is fragrant with Dal combines lentils with Gulab Jamun may be served
cardamom and cloves. This a heady mix of onions, garlic hot or cold. These syrupy little
rich, creamy curry is eaten with and spices. It is considered dough balls are often topped
either Indian bread or rice. India’s “soul food”. with ice cream.
The Flavours of the Tandoor

A wood-fired clay oven, the tandoor, is used all over Western
Asia. Its entry into the mainstream of Indian cooking began
with the arrival of Punjabi refugees at the time of Partition
(see pp62–3). Meats or vegetables are marinated in a spiced
yoghurt mixture, then speared onto long skewers and slowly
cooked in the tandoor until the outer skin is crisp and smoky.
Tandoori breads are rolled by hand, flung up in the air to stretch, Raita, a cooling yoghurt salad dip
deftly caught and then fired in the tandoor. Tandoori cuisine
is undoubtedly the most popular “finger food” of this region.
Barra Kebab features
Murg Tikka is a spicy cube robustly flavoured
(tikka) of chargrilled lamb chops
boneless chicken
Mughlai Kebab is
minced lamb spiced
in the Mughlai style
Seekh Kebab, uses spicy

Tandoori Murgh, a whole Reshmi Kebab, made minced lamb, and is named
spring chicken (murgh), is with minced chicken, gets after the skewer (seekh)
the original tandoori delicacy its name from being as
smooth as silk (resham)
ON THE TANDOORI MENU

Achari Murg: chicken kebabs in Galouti Kebab: richly spiced, finely Lehsuni Murg Tikka: garlicky
a strong pickle (achar) marinade. minced mutton patties that melt in (lehsun) chicken kebabs.
Achari Paneer Tikka: cottage the mouth. However, the pepper Machli Tikka Ajwani: fish (machi)
cheese (paneer) chunks in a sharp in them has a slow fuse so take care. kebab flavoured with the oregano-
pickle (achar) marinade go well Hariyali Murg: grilled spring like herb ajwain.
with a chilled beer. chicken in a green marinade, Malai Makai Seekh: creamy
Afghani Murg: grilled chicken often featuring coriander. sweetcorn (makai) kebabs,
basted with butter and spices. Kakori Kebab: cardamom- served chargrilled on skewers.
Bharwan Tamatar: tomatoes flavoured soft kebabs originally Mutton Chop Adrakhi: ginger
(tamatar) stuffed with a spicy devised for a toothless nawab (adrak) features in this dish.
potato filling. This squishy dish by the royal chef of Kakori.
Paneer Pudina Tikka: cottage
must be eaten in one bite. Kalmi Kebab: chicken twists with cheese kebab flavoured with
Boti Kebab: chunks of mutton, soft buttery marinade. mint (pudina).
grilled medium-rare. Kathal Kebab: often called a Pasanda: boneless, flattened
Dahi ka Kebab: the base of this vegetarian lamb substitute, this lamb in a cardamom-based
delectable melt-in-the-mouth jackfruit kebab tastes like a mutton marinade. Garnished with
kebab is strained curds (dahi). shami kebab. roasted almonds and sultanas.
Pickles and Chutneys

No Indian meal is complete without accompanying
relishes, set in small bowls alongside the main meal.
Raw mango pickle is a favourite, the tender fruit mixed
with spices and mustard oil. Raw mango is also a base
for spicy chutneys with fresh coriander, mint and
chillies. Among other popular chutney bases are red
tomatoes and garlic. Pickled shallots are often served
with tandoori platters. Shredded ginger, pickled in
lime juice, turns pink with time and aids digestion. Mango, mint and tomato chutneys, among the many
Sweet pickles are flavoured with cloves. varieties that accompany a meal
Tandoori Gobhi is spiced florets

of cauliflower (gobhi) lightly grilled
in the tandoor
Paneer Tikka, delicately

grilled chunks of cottage
cheese (paneer)
Tandoori Sabzi feature

assorted skewered, grilled
Hariyali Kebabs are green
vegetables (sabzi) Bharwan Aloo are potatoes (hara) kebabs made of
Bharwan Simla Mirch are (aloo) that are scooped out lentils and spinach
barbecued green and red and stuffed with a spicy
peppers (simla mirch) with filling, then grilled
a spicy potato stuffing
Sabzi Seekh Kebab: served Tandoori Jhinga: marinated

on skewers, this is a vegetarian jumbo prawns (jhinga) garnished
(sabzi) variation of the popular with pomegranate seeds.
seekh kebab.
Tangri Kebab: chicken
Seekh Kebab Roll: A soft rumali drumstick kebabs.
(handkerchief ) bread is rolled round
Tandoori Khumb: Kashmiri
a seekh kebab, spiced with mint
mushrooms (khumb) are spiced
chutney and onion rings.
and grilled to a creamy bite.
Shami Kebab: finely minced meat,
stuffed with chopped onions, ginger Tandoori Pomfret: a whole
and fresh coriander. Raisins may marinated fish, served with onion
be added. rings, lemon and mint chutney.
Tandoori Bater: marinated quails Tandoori Raan: grilled leg of
(bater) skewered and chargrilled. lamb, marinated in spiced
yoghurt dressing.
Tandoori Bhindi: tender
whole okra (bhindi), smeared Tandoori Salad: features
Tandoori chef with a whole leg of lamb in tandoori marinade and grilled seasonal vegetables such as
(raan) for the oven to a crunchy finish. peppers, tomatoes and lotus root.
A Glossary of Typical curry with almonds and

cashew nuts.
Indian Food Nargisi Kofta
The Mughlai version of
The essence of traditional Indian food lies in the infinite Scotch Eggs – hard-boiled
variations in the blending and combination of a variety eggs covered in minced meat
of spices. Chillies need not be used and, in fact, are often and served in a spicy sauce.
Murg Mussallan
regarded as the inputs of a poor cook who uses them A masala
to camouflage the lack of subtlety in his seasonings. roast chicken,
A typical menu in the region includes meat, sometimes
lentils, vegetables and tandoori dishes, stuffed
accompanied by rice and rotis. Street food is with hard-
boiled eggs.
extremely popular with locals, and consists
Korma
of savoury snacks, eaten through the day. Braised meat
or chicken cooked
on a slow fire with
Snacks Pakora yoghurt and spices.
Sweet and savoury snacks are an Vegetables or Rogan josh, a meat dish Nihari
important part of the Indian diet. cottage cheese fried Stewed lamb shanks,
Aloo Tikki in gramflour batter. usually cooked all night over
Stuffed potato cutlet Samosa embers. It is eaten for breakfast
cooked on a griddle. Deep-fried pastry during the month of Ramadan.
Chaat triangles filled with Rogan Josh
The most popular items spiced potato and peas. Cubes of mutton cooked
are papri, made of Tikkas with red chillies and spices.
fritters, chickpeas, Marinated and char- Saag Gosht
potatoes, yoghurt and grilled small chunks of Meat cooked with spinach.
spicy sauces; and chicken, mutton, fish
golguppas, puffed flour and cottage cheese.
crisps filled with cumin- The burra kebab is
spiced water and meat with bone from
chickpeas. the rib, prepared
Idli and Dosa in the same way.
Popular South Indian Skewered tikkas Red chilli
steamed rice cakes and Curry leaves and
crisp pancakes, served with Main Non-Vegetarian Dishes masur dal
coconut curry and a spicy Often spicy and rich, these
lentil curry, are a national are among the most delicious Vegetarian Dishes
breakfast favourite. examples of Indian cuisine. Traditionally, only seasonal
Jalebi Bhuna Gosht vegetables (sabzi) were used,
Crisp, golden coils of flour A dry meat curry, stir-fried limiting the choice of dishes.
batter dipped in a rose- slowly till tender. Aloo Gobhi
flavoured syrup. Butter Chicken Potatoes (aloo) cooked with
Tandoori chicken cauliflower (gobhi) and ginger.
with a rich tomato Aloo Methi
and butter sauce. Browned potatoes and
Dal Gosht fenugreek (methi) leaves.
Meat with lentils. Baingan ka Bharta
Dil Bahar Dopiaza Smoked aubergine puréed
A spicy mutton stew with onions and tomatoes.
in a thick sauce made Bhindi Piaz
with onions. Okra and onions (seasonal).
Kadhai Murg Dum Aloo
Chicken curry stir-fried Potatoes with yoghurt and
in a wok. spices cooked over low heat.
Kofta Gatta Curry
Meatballs in broth. Gramflour dumplings in a
Lal maas delicate, aromatic sauce.
A Rajasthani mutton Kadhi
dish cooked with red Fried gramflour dumplings
The chaat-wallah’s variety of savouries served in chillies. A variation is cooked in a yoghurt and
mouth-watering combinations safed maas, a “white” gramflour-thickened sauce.
Sweets
Sweets are mainly milk-based.
Gajar ka Halwa
Grated carrots cooked
in milk and sugar and
browned with pistachios
and almonds.
Gulab Jamun
Deep-fried milk and flour
dumplings in a thick syrup.
Kulfi
Hand-churned ice-cream
flavoured with pistachios.
Phirni A Mughlai riceflour
A streetside restaurant specializing in parathas pudding, flavoured
with saffron (kesar).
Kair Sangri a special curry Rabri
Small local berries cooked with powder. Thickened milk and
spinach-like leaves. sugar garnished
Khumb-matar Curry Breads with nuts.
A mushroom and pea curry. Common breads Rasmalai
Malai Kofta cooked on a A flatter version
Cottage cheese dumplings in a griddle are the of the rasgulla (paneer
thick tomato gravy. chapati, paper-thin Gajar ka Halwa balls in a thin syrup)
Masala Baingan roomali roti and paratha. in a mildly flavoured
Stuffed aubergines (eggplants) Pooris are deep fried, while creamy sauce.
braised in oil. tandoori breads include the
Paneer tandoori and khastha roti and naan.
Paneer (cottage cheese), an Drinks
all time favourite, is cooked Elaichi Chai
in a variety of combinations. Rice Cardamom-flavoured tea.
Palak paneer is with spinach, Biryanis and pulaos are eaten Lassi
and matar paneer with peas. with raitas (whipped yoghurt Whipped yoghurt shake.
Paneer Makhani mixed with onions, tomatoes, Nimbu Pani
Cottage cheese in a tomato coriander and green chillies), Fresh, sweetened or salted lime
and butter sauce. and a wide range of pickles juice with water or soda.
Sarson ka Saag and chutneys. Panna
Mustard leaves cooked in milk Biryani Peeled raw mango boiled,
and served in a puréed form Mutton or chicken korma puréed, and mixed in water
with butter. is layered with rice, cooked with salt, sugar and cumin.
on a slow charcoal fire, and Sherbet
flavoured with saffron. A flavoured sweet drink.
Lentils Navratan Pulao
Dal, a lentil curry, is Rice cooked with nine types
the staple meal. of vegetables. Paan
Masur and Yakhni Pulao Betel leaf packed with areca
moong are Rice and mutton cooked in nut, lime (catechu) paste, and
two varieties. stock flavoured with aniseed other ingredients such as
Chhola and whole spices. cardamoms and cloves.
Bhatura
Chickpeas
thickly coated
Chhola Bhatura with a spicy
sauce eaten with
a puffed, deep-fried bread
(poori).
Dal Makhani
Unhulled dal cooked
in cream and butter.
Rajma Curry
A red kidney-bean curry.
Sambhar
A South Indian speciality
made with arhar dal and Paan, a good digestive, can be made to suit individual tastes
Where to Eat and Drink

Daniell's Tavern  Price Guide
Delhi North Indian Map 1 C5 The price ranges are for a meal for one,
The Imperial, 1, Janpath including tax and service charges but
New Delhi Tel (011) 4111 6634 not alcohol.
The Shim Tur  The menu here charts the  under 300
 300 to 900
Korean Map 1 B3 culinary expedition of a British
 over 900
3 F, Navrang Guest House, Tooti Galli, explorer duo in 18th-century
Main Bazaar, Paharganj India. Try their East India Fish
Tel 981 038 6717 Curry and the Railway Chicken. Sevilla 
The rustic restaurant serves Spanish Map 5 A3
simple home-made style food. Dhaba  The Claridges, 12, near Lodi Rd,
Try their kimbap (sushi) or the DIY North Indian Map 5 A3 Aurangzeb Rd
fried pork. Their alcoholic The Claridge’s, 12, Aurangzeb Rd Tel (011) 3955 5082
beverage, Soju, is quite popular. Tel (011) 3955 5082 Authentic Spanish food in a
In kitschy interiors that recreate beautiful outdoor setting with
Kwality  popular roadside eateries, the individual gazebos. Try the paella
North Indian Map 1 C5 restaurant serves outstanding valencia (a rice dish with meat
7 Regal Building, Connaught Place traditional Punjabi and tandoori and vegetables).
Tel (011) 2374 3352 dishes. The chef’s special thali and
Serves North Indian fare such as balti meat are must-haves. Spice Route 
tandoori rotis and kebabs. Their Asian Map 1 C5
chhola bhatura (spicy chickpeas) Elan  The Imperial, Janpath
is a crowd favourite. Multi-cuisine Map 5 B4 Tel (011) 4111 6605
The Lodhi, Lodi Rd The ornate interiors resemble
Saravana Bhavan  Tel (011) 4363 3333 those of a South Indian temple.
South Indian Vegetarian Map 1 C5 Serves an eclectic mix of flavours The varied dishes on the menu
46 Janpath from around the world. The represent the original course of
Tel (011) 2331 6060 Mediterranean and Southeast spices from Kerela through Sri
Very popular South Indian diner Asian dishes are excellent and Lanka, Thailand and Vietnam.
that serves great thalis and dosas. the contemporary courtyard
The mini tiffin, with a little bit of setting makes a great place to Varq 
everything, is fantastic. enjoy a glass of good wine. Contemporary Indian Map 5 B3
The Taj Mahal Hotel, 1, Mansingh Rd
Triveni Tea Terrace  Latitude 28  Tel (011) 6656 6162
Snacks Map 2 D5 Multi-cuisine Map 5 B3 Traditional Indian recipes but
205, Opposite FICCI, Mandi House 9, 2nd Floor, Khan Market with a contemporary twist. Try
Tel 981 011 8115 Closed Sunday Tel (011) 2462 1013 their signature dishes such as
Part of a cultural and arts Fresh salads and great fish dishes; Varqui Crab, apricot kebabs,
complex, serves delicious dishes a great place to break for a and Baileys rabdi.
such as palak paneer and kebabs leisurely lunch while shopping.
in a peaceful, arty setting. Veda 
Lodi Garden Restaurant  North Indian Map 1 C4
Big Chill  Mediterranean Map 5 A5 H27, Outer Circle, Connaught Place
Multi-cuisine Map 5 B3 Opposite Mausam Bhawan, Near Tel (011) 4151 3535
68A Khan Market Gate 1, Lodi Rd With plush red velvet decor and
Tel (011) 4175 7588 Tel (011) 3310 5163 sparkling crystal chandeliers, the
Famous for their range of The garden restaurant, lit with ambience dominates the dining
cakes and milkshakes such as colourful lanterns, is enchanting. experience here, but the food is
Mississippi Mud Pie and Malted Their rosemary and thyme good too. Their signature dal
Oreo Shake. The vast menu also quinoa and home-made fig ice Veda, chicken makhani and dahi
includes pizzas and lasagne. cream are highly recommended. ke kebabs are recommended.
Khan Chacha 
North Indian Map 5 B3
50, First floor, Khan Market
Tel (011) 2463 3242
Savour scrumptious tandoori
food – kebabs, tikkas and roomali
rolls. Try the chicken tikka roll
and the mutton seekh. Expect
long queues.
Pind Balluchi 
North Indian Map 1 C5
13 Regal Building, Connaught Place
Tel (011) 4372 0507
Colourful, rustic interiors and a
wide selection of hearty Punjabi
dishes. The kebabs are succulent
and fresh. The elegant interiors of Varq
Wasabi 
Japanese Map 5 B3
Taj Mahal Hotel, 1 Man Singh Rd
Tel (011) 6651 3585
Watch the chefs perform the
elaborate knifework of the
Teppanyaki style of cooking. All
ingredients are fresh and are
flown in from Tokyo daily. The
food is excellent and there is a
wonderful sake bar that offers
an impressive collection of
Japanese sakes.
Nizamuddin
Three Sixty Degree  Kitschy decor of the Japanese restaurant, Wasabi
Multi-cuisine Map 6 D4
The Oberoi, Dr Zakir Hussain Marg Oh! Calcutta  TLR – The Living Room 
Tel (011) 2436 3030 Bengali Map 2 D5 Multi-cuisine
In addition to their renowned Ground Floor, International Trade 31, Hauz Khas Village
Sunday brunch, Three Sixty Towers, E Block, Nehru Place Tel (011) 4608 0544
Degree is popular for its delicious Tel (011) 3040 2415 Spread over three floors, this is
Japanese food and wood-fired Acclaimed Bengali restaurant an excellent place for a relaxed
pizzas. The service is excellent. that serves authentic kosha lunch. In the evenings, the
mangsho (a traditional spicy restaurant comes alive as a bar
mutton dish) – a must-try. Their with live music and other events.
Old Delhi fish fry is also quite popular.
Karim's  Yeti 
North Indian Map 6 D5 Tibetan/Nepalese
16, Gali Kababian, Jama Masjid DK Choice 2nd Floor, 50A Hauz Khas Village
Tel (011) 2326 4981 Park Balluchi  Tel (011) 4067 8649
An institution in Old Delhi, North Indian Map 1 B3 This simple, comfortable
Karim’s has been serving tasty Inside Deer Park, near Hauz restaurant serves well-prepared
Mughlai kebabs and juicy Khas Village specialties from the high
tandoori raan (leg of lamb) for Tel (011) 2685 9369 Himalayas – momos, thukpa and
over 100 years. The Chicken Located amid the lush greenery sukuti sadeko (buffalo jerky).
Jahangiri is also recommended. of the Deer Park, Park Balluchi
serves classic North Indian food Bukhara 
Chor Bizarre  such as tikkas and kebabs. Their North Indian Map 3 B4
North Indian Map 2 E3 signature dishes include the ITC Maurya, Diplomatic Enclave,
Hotel Broadway, 4/15A Asaf Ali Rd popular dal Balluchi and Sardar Patel Marg
Tel (011) 4366 3600 tandoori gulnar (marinated Tel (011) 4621 5125
Eclectically designed restaurant cauliflower florets slowly Rated amongst the best tandoori
that serves authentic, flavoursome cooked in the tandoor). The restaurants, with a lively open
Kashmiri food. Try the delicious staff is friendly and efficient. kitchen that serves rich, bold
gushtaba (spiced meat balls flavours. The dal Bukhara is
cooked in yoghurt). very popular.
Sagar Ratna 
South Indian Diva 
South Delhi 18, Defence Colony Market Italian
Naivedyam  Tel (011) 2433 3658 M-8A, M Block Market,
South Indian Famed for enormous 1 m- (4 ft-) Greater Kailash II
1, Hauz Khas Village long family dosas, Sagar Ratna is Tel (011) 3310 6265
Tel (011) 2696 0426 an excellent place to get the true Award-winning restaurant that
Offers delicious, reasonably- taste of South India. The serves scrumptious Italian fare
priced South Indian dishes. The restaurant serves great along with an excellent
thali and the rasam vadai are vegetarian thalis and authentic collection of wines. The menu
recommended, as is a close look South Indian filter coffee. changes seasonally.
at the exquisite wall paintings.
Tamura  Dum Pukht 
Elma's  Japanese North Indian Map 3 B4
Multi-cuisine S16 Uphar Commercial Complex, ITC Maurya, Diplomatic Enclave,
31, 2nd floor, Hauz Khas Village Green Park Extension Market Sardar Patel Marg
Tel (011) 2652 1020 Tel (011) 2653 5769 Tel (011) 3310 5108
Furnished with big, comfortable Apart from the regular sushi Pristine marble interiors in a
armchairs, Elma's is perfect for dishes, Tamura serves lesser- magnificent gold and blue decor,
those in need of a laid-back known Japanese fare such as complement the traditional
repast. The extensive menu salmon rice in Japanese tea and slow-cooked courtly cuisine. Try
includes mezze platters and lamb sweet pork in vegetable stew. It the Shahi Nehari (stewed lamb
roulade, but the highlight is their also has a well-stocked bar. shanks with spices), Dum Phukt
indulgent array of cakes such as There is another branch in New biryani and the kheer (rice pudding).
red velvet and apple crumble. Friends Colony. Reservation recommended.
For more information on types of restaurants see page 243
Guppy by ai 
Japanese Map 5 B5
28, Main Market, Lodi Colony
Tel (011) 3310 7928
Run by the renowned Olive Bar &
Kitchen group, the restaurant
serves outstanding Japanese
food in an Animé-style setting.
Their Mushroom Suimono soup,
California rolls, garlic fried rice
and flambéd blueberry crêpes
are highly recommended.
DK Choice
Indian Accent 
Contemporary Indian
The Manor, 77 Friends Colony West
Tel (011) 4323 5151
Try the award-winning chef
Manish Mehrotra’s inventive
dishes such as tandoori bacon
prawns with wasabi cream,
chicken tikka quesadillas and Beautiful diya trees at Indian Accent
butter chicken kulcha. Or opt
for the chef’s tasting menu for a include signature dishes such Swagath 
broader experience of modern as the pan-seared sea bass or Multi-cuisine
Indian cuisine – old classics wood-fired pizzas. 14, Defence Colony Market
with an experimental twist. Tel (011) 2433 0930
Tables are only available at Nanking  Serves some of the most
7pm and 9:45pm. There is Asian delicious regional dishes from
live music on Saturdays. 6C, Local Shopping Complex, Tamil Nadu and Mangalore in the
Vasant Kunj capital and is best known for its
Tel (011) 2613 8939 seafood. Other cuisines such as
Kainoosh  Friendly restaurant, well-known Chinese and Continental also
Contemporary Indian for its dim sums, fried corn feature on the menu.
122–124 DLF Promenade Mall, curd and sticky spare ribs.
Vasant Kunj The kung pao chicken is Thai High 
Tel (011) 3310 6161 absolutely delicious. Asian
Feast on enormous thalis that 1091/1, Ambawatta Complex,
include nutmeg-infused lamb Olive at the Qutub  Kalkadass Marg, Mehrauli
kofta and cardamom-saffron Mediterranean Tel (011) 2664 4289
chicken. It also has a great bar, One Style Mile, Haveli 6, Mehrauli Offers a wide range of tempting
Keya, right next door. Tel 981 023 5472 Thai dishes. Try the signature Thai
Situated in the shadow of High chicken and yam phak krob
La Piazza  the Qutub Minar, the rustic (crispy vegetables in a tangy sauce).
Italian restaurant serves perfectly Diners can sit outside and admire a
Hyatt Regency Delhi, Ring Rd, Bhikaji grilled bass, seafood risotto beautiful view of the Qutub Minar.
Cama Place and blue cheese gnocchi.
Tel (011) 6677 1338 The Great Kabab Factory 
Sunday brunch is very popular. Orient Express  North Indian
The wide-ranging, tempting Continental Map 3 A4 1st Floor, MGF Metropolitan
choices on the à la carte menu Taj Palace Hotel, Diplomatic Enclave Mall, Saket
Tel (011) 2611 0202 Tel (011) 3310 6148
A 5-star dining experience Serves an extraordinary 160
themed on the legendary train varieties of succulent kebabs,
that transverses Europe. The including quite a few vegetarian
restaurant is ornately styled as options as well. They have
a railway carriage to create just branches in Connaught Place,
the right ambience. The menu Noida and Mahipalpur.
reflects the cuisine of the various
regions the train journeys The Kylin Experience 
through. Dinner only. Asian
24 Basant Lok, Vasant Vihar
Smokehouse Bar & Grill  Tel 958 200 1010
Multi-cuisine Map 5 B3 Try the generous sushi platter,
17, First Floor, Khan Market Indonesian gado-gado (mixed
Tel (011) 3310 5615 vegetable salad with peanut
Offers a wide array of meat and sauce dressing) and asparagus
seafood dishes. Guests can gorge tempura rolls with the finest
on juicy tenderloin and lamb Japanese sake. The earthy
The ornatly designed dining room patties or crunchy prawn skewers. interiors have a number
at Kainoosh Also has a branch in Hauz Khas. of nice, cosy nooks.
Rishikesh: Ishan  Rishikesh: Royal Café 

North of Delhi Multi-cuisine Multi-cuisine
Haridwar: Ahaar 
Lakshman Jhula Laxman Jhula, Near Laxman Moorti,
Indian Tel (0135) 249 192 Tel (0135) 244 2778
Kulri Bazaar Mal Rd, Survey Colony Ishan is a popular travellers’ A popular rooftop restaurant that
Tel 983 757 2655 hangout with extensive menu serves a variety of vegetarian
Offers delicious northern options. The spinach lasagna, in burgers, Tibetan momos
favourites such as Sarson ka Saag particular, is scrumptious. and pancakes.
and dal Makhani, as well as good
Rishikesh: New Bhandari Swiss Rishikesh: Sanskriti Vedic 
South Indian food.
Cottage  Indian
Haridwar: Mid-Way Resort  Multi-cuisine Near Shivanand Hospital, Ramjhulla,
Multi-cuisine High Bank Area, Bypass Rd, opposite Shivanand Ashram
Raiwala, Haridwar–Rishikesh Rd Shivanand Nagar, Tapovan Tel (0135) 244 2444
Tel 976 000 0929 Tel (0135) 243 5322 The organic vegatarian menu
A perfect stop-off between The cottage serves great food – here has been designed
Haridwar and Rishikesh, Mid-Way from signature dishes such as according to the principles of
Resort offers a wide range of tofu steaks with mushroom Ayurveda and offers healthy,
dishes. The bar here has an sauce to the usual travellers’ nourishing dishes. Guests can
excellent collection of wines. favourites of hummus and also choose vegan, gluten-free
lasagne. and dairy-free meals.
Haridwar: Shivalik 
Multi-cuisine Rishikesh: Pyramid Café  Rishikesh: Tattva 
Hotel Shivalik, Lalita Rao Bridge, Multi-cuisine Multi-cuisine
Railway Rd Kirmola/Laxman Jhula, Opposite the Pundir's Organic Store, Tapovan
Tel (0133) 422 6868 Post Office Tel (0135) 243 4798
This hotel diner specializes in Tel 805 782 5597 A rooftop restaurant that serves
authentic Gujarati food. Also Popular café that serves a range healthy, organic produce. They
serves North Indian, Chinese and of home-made jams, tofu, have a great shop for travellers
Continental fare. hummus, as well as freshly- which sells miso, tofu, granola,
brewed Kerala coffee and organic herbal teas and yoga mats.
Haridwar: Haveli Hari cocoa beans. They have live
Ganga  music and DJ evenings. Rishikesh: Holywater 
Multi-cuisine Multi-cuisine
21, Pilibhit House, Ramghat Hotel Ganga Kinare, 237
Tel (0133) 426 5207 DK Choice Virbhadra Rd
Inspired by the flavours of India, Rishikesh: Ramana's Organic Tel 901 554 4000
Southeast Asia and Europe, the Restaurant  Holywater has lovely outdoor
food here is fresh and delicious. Multi-cuisine seating that takes advantage of
The Haveli also has a rooftop café Close to Divine Ganga the river-side location. The indoor
that offers a beautiful view of the Cottages, Tapovan dining space has an elegant
Ganges river. Tel 901 275 4681 decor. Excellent vegetarian food.
Closed Monsoon
Rishikesh: Chotiwala  Popular dishes include different Rishikesh: Glasshouse on
Indian kinds of pasta and momos. A the Ganges 
Swarg Ashram, across lovely organic garden provides Multi-cuisine
Shivanand Jhula the ingredients for fresh, delicious Glasshouse on the Ganges, 23rd
Tel (0135) 243 4070 salads. Proceeds from the café Milestone, Badrinath Rd
Established in 1958, Chotiwala is go to the Ramana’s Garden Tel 941 207 6420
an institution in Rishikesh. Their Children’s Home, a shelter for Sit on the scenic banks and enjoy
special thali and aloo poori are children at risk. You can attend a picturesque view of the river.
highly recommended. cookery classes at the café or North Indian cuisine with a
volunteer at the shelter. smattering of Italian, Chinese
Rishikesh: Devraj Coffee and Continental dishes.
Corner 
Multi-cuisine
Opposite Laxman Jhula
Tel (0135) 244 2089
This restaurant serves healthy
vegetarian fare. Try their
signature dishes such as brown
bread with yak cheese and
aubergine lasagne. They have a
quaint little bookshop next door.
Rishikesh: Green 
Italian
Swarg Ashram
Tel (0135) 243 1242
Serves a wide variety of
wholesome lasagne and pizzas. A
fairly reliable free Wi-Fi connection
is also available. View of Chotiwala, a popular eatery in Rishikesh
Agra: Peshawri 

North Indian
ITC Mughal, Fatehabad Rd
Tel (0562) 402 1700
The award-winning restaurant
features a variety of delectable
dishes cooked in the tandoor.
The dal Bukhara, their signature
dish, is simply divine. Chicken
khurchan with roomali rotis is
also recommended.
Bharatpur: Hotel Pelican 

Multi-cuisine
Hotel Pelican, Near Keoladeo
National Park, Bird Sanctuary Rd
Tel 941 424 7066
A perfect choice for bird-
watchers; Pelican has a rooftop
The exquisitely furnished Bellevue at Oberoi Amarvilas restaurant that offers a
panoramic view of the beautiful
as it allows a diverse sampling of bird sanctuary. The portions are
Agra and Around beautifully prepared food from large and the food, delicious.
Agra: Dasaprakash  around the world. It has an
South Indian inviting ambience is inviting and Bharatpur:
18/163A/6, Minto Rd, Vibhav Nagar the service is excellent. Bharatpur Ashoka 
Tel (0562) 401 6123 Multi-cuisine
Excellent vegetarian restaurant Agra: Bellevue  Hotel Bharatpur Ashoka, Forest
that offers delicious dosas, thalis Multi-cuisine Lodge, Inside Keoladeo National Park
and a wide range of chutneys. The Oberoi Amarvilas, Taj East Gate Tel (0564) 422 2722
Tel (0562) 223 1515 Surrounded by lush green trees
Agra: Pinch of Spice  With an extensive à la carte inside the national park, this is an
Multi-cuisine menu and a huge buffet, diners idyllic spot to have a leisurely
1076/2, Fatehabad Rd, Tajganj are completely spoilt for choice. lunch or dinner. The restaurant
Tel (0562) 404 5353 Luxurious interiors in vibrant blue serves Continental, Chinese and
Try the rogan josh (lamb cooked provide the perfect backdrop. regional delicacies.
in aromatic spices and butter) or
any dish from the tandoor. The Agra: Dawat-e-Nawab  Bharatpur: The Spoonbill 
buffet is quite popular. North Indian North Indian
Radisson Blu, Taj East Gate Near Tourist Reception Centre
Agra: Pizza Hut  Tel (0562) 405 5555 Tel (0564) 422 3 571
Italian Definitive fine dining – an Popular restaurant at a
8, Handicraft Nagar, Fatehabad Rd extravagant six-course meal convenient location; a stone’s
Tel (0562) 406 4051 in a resplendent setting. Try throw from the Keoladeo
The fast-food chain offers Indian- the special mutton biryani with National Park. Serves good,
style pizzas with flavoursome one of their delicious gravies. hearty meals and hosts
tandoori paneer or chicken traditional dance performances
topppings, in addition to the in the evenings.
usual offerings. DK Choice
Agra: Esphahan 
Agra: Zorba the Buddha  North Indian
Vegetarian The Oberoi Amarvilas,
E-19, Shopping Arcade, Sadar Bazaar Taj East Gate
Tel (0562) 222 6091 Tel (0562) 223 1515
A popular restaurant – try their Enjoy the delicately flavoured
delicious paneer dishes and the cuisine of Mughal India while
malai kofta. listening to live instrumental
traditional music. The restaurant
Agra: Al Fresco  is softly lit and has an elegant,
Italian earthy decor. As it is extremely
Trident Hotel, Fatehabad Rd popular, Esphahan has two
Tel (0562) 223 5000 seperate seating timings in the
Savour succulent grilled meats evening – 6:30pm and 9:30pm.
and super thin-crust pizzas that
are seasoned with fresh herbs
from their own kitchen garden. Agra: Jhankar 
North Indian
Agra: Bano  The Gateway Hotel, Fatehabad Rd
Multi-cuisine Tel (0562) 660 2000
ITC Mughal, Fatehabad Rd Serves excellent kebabs and a
Tel (0562) 402 1700 wide range of vegetarian dishes.
The breakfast and the lunch The atmosphere is lively with The regal setting of Daawat-e-Nawab,
buffet here is immensely popular regular music and dance events. Radisson Blu Agra
Bharatpur: The Sunbird  Orchha: Betwa Resort 

Multi-cuisine Multi-cuisine
Near Bird Sanctuary Entrance Gate The Orchha Resort, Kanchanghat,
Tel (0564) 422 5701 District Tikamgarh
A mix of good North Indian fare Tel (0768) 025 2222
along with other cuisines. Their Serves a variety of Indian, Chinese
lunchtime buffet is fairly popular. and Continental cuisine. Diners
There is an outdoor seating area can opt to sit outdoors and enjoy
as well. a beautiful view.
Fatehpur Sikri: Gulistan Orchha: Kaleva 

Tourist Complex  Multi-cuisine
Multi-cuisine The Orchha Resort, Kanchanghat,
UPSTDC, Gulistan Tourist Complex District Tikamgarh
Tel (05613) 282 490 Tel (0768) 025 2222
North Indian is the primary Choose from a wide selection
cuisine here, though some of regional specialities as well
Continental classics also feature as international favourites. There
on the menu. The dining room is also an excellent vegetarian
is pleasant and spacious. buffet. Cultural performances Scenic view of the Orchha Cenotaphs
enliven the evenings. from Kaleva
Gwalior: Kwality 
Multi-cuisine Orchha: Sheesh Mahal 
Captain Upmanyu Singh Marg, North Indian Alwar: Peppers 
Behind SP Office, City Centre MPTDC Sheesh Mahal, Multi-cuisine
Tel (0751) 241 0456 Jahangir Palace Near Delhi Public School, Alwar City
Even though it serves a variety of Tel (0768) 025 2624 Tel 988 749 0946
cuisines, Kwality is renowned for The majestic dining room in this Enjoy Chinese and Continental
its Mughlai dishes and rich North heritage fort serves an excellent dishes in a beautiful outdoor
Indian food. buffet and also presents an setting that is surrounded by lush
extensive à la carte menu. green trees and hills. Serves only
Gwalior: Volga  vegetarian food.
North Indian
Jayendraganj, Shinde Ki Chhawani Alwar: Hill Fort Kesroli 
Tel (0751) 408 7100 Jaipur and Environs Multi-cuisine
Their dal makhani and butter Ajmer: Bhola Hotel  Village Kesroli, Near MIA Post-Office
chicken is very popular. The Vegetarian Tel 982 949 9901
restaurant is well-liked by Agra Gate, Station Rd Live puppet shows entertain
locals and tourists alike. Tel (0145) 243 2844 guests dining in this lovely
Serves reasonably priced, courtyard restaurant. The buffet
Gwalior: Yellow Chilli  flavourful vegetarian fare from and an à la carte menu offer
Multi-cuisine the tandoor. Their vegetarian plenty delectable of choices.
Ground Floor, Alaknanda Towers 2, thali is one of the best in the city
Plot No C-8, City Centre Jaipur: Copper Chimney 
Tel (0751) 406 5000 Ajmer: Honeydew  Multi-cuisine
The perfect place to relish Multi-cuisine Maya Mansion, Opposite GPO,
delectable dishes from different Near KEM Resthouse, Station Rd MI Road
parts of India – try the crispy Tel (0145) 262 2498 Tel (0141) 237 2275
Amritsari machchli (fish) from One of the most popular Generous servings of tasty North
Punjab, Chowringhee chili restaurants in the city, it is Indian fare and some regional
chicken from Calcutta and rich renowned for its tandoor dishes dishes such as the Rajasthani
dum aloo curry from Kashmir. and Chinese sizzlers. The staff is mutton and the delicately spiced
courteous and attentive. gutta curries.
Gwalior: Silver Saloon 
North Indian
Usha Kiran Palace Hotel,
Jayendraganj Lashkar
Tel (0751) 244 4000
Traditional recipes from the
royal kitchens to tempt your
palate and live perfomances
of classical music to create
the perfect ambience at
this courtyard restaurant.
Meerut: Alfa 
Multi-cuisine
Bombay Bazaar, near
Hanuman Chowk
Tel (0121) 266 0532
Try the North Indian dishes,
such as the tikkas prepared with
mustard or paneer butter masala. The airy courtyard of Silver Saloon
kebabs. The menu also offers The restaurant only serves

equally good vegetarian kebab vegetarian fare. Prior booking
options, as well as North Indian is advisable.
classics such as dal makhani and
the sweet gulab jamuns. Jaipur: Jaipur Baking
Company 
Multi-cuisine
DK Choice Jaipur Marriott, Ashram Marg, Near
Jaipur: Chokhi Dhani  Jawahar Circle
Vegetarian Tel (0141) 456 7777
Chokhi Dhani Village Resort, 12 A delicatessen and bakery that
Mile, Tonk Rd offers great cakes and muffins.
Tel (0141) 516 5000 They serve gourmet sandwiches,
Serves a mouthwatering range burgers and savoury pastries too.
of traditional Rajasthani dishes
such as desert beans and Jaipur: LMB 
yoghurt pakoda curry. The resort Vegetarian
has eight beautiful dining areas 100, Johari Bazaar, Pink City
that showcase different styles of Tel (0141) 400 1616
A delectable spread of North Indian dishes dining in Rajasthan. The meals The highlight of the restaurant
at Peacock restaurant are usually accompanied by is its wide array of sweets. It also
puppet shows and live music. serve scrumptious chat. The
Jaipur: Indian Coffee House  Dine at the Chokhi Dhani to Raj Kachori, aloo tikki and badam
South Indian really experience the culture (almond) milk are recommended.
Near Ajmeri Gate, MI Rd of Rajasthan. LMB is very popular and, hence,
Tel (0141) 236 2024 quite busy.
This coffee house has been a
popular meeting place in the city Jaipur: Dasaprakash  Jaipur: Nahargarh Fort
for decades and is famous for its South Indian Restaurant 
filter coffee and delicious South 5, Kamal Mansion, MI Rd North Indian
Indian fare. Tel (0141) 237 1313 Nahargarh Fort
Centrally located, this popular Tel (0141) 514 8044
Jaipur: Special Lassiwala  restaurant chain serves paper Enjoy magnificent view of the
Snacks thin dosas, flavourful sambhar Jaipur countryside while dining
315, MI Rd and amazing thalis. The fried rice at the fort’s rooftop restaurant.
Tel 966 718 8811 idlis served with mint chutney The food here is delicious and
There are several establishments and crispy vadas with sambhar the menu offers good mocktails.
in the city with the same name, are also recommended.
but the original Lassiwala is Jaipur: Natraj 
situtated right next to an alley Jaipur: Diggi Palace  North Indian
and serves sweet and salty Multi-cuisine Panch Batti, MI Road
lassi (yoghurt shake). It is Diggi House, Shivaji Marg, C-Scheme Tel (0141) 237 5804
worth getting there early in Tel (0141) 237 3091 One of the oldest restaurants in
the day, before they run out. The beautiful restaurant at this the city. The Rajasthani thali here
quaint palace hotel is surrrounded truly showcases the cuisine of
Jaipur: Peacock  by lovely gardens. The flavours the state – hearty, rich and spicy.
Multi-cuisine reflect the quality of ingredients They also have a good in-house
Hotel Pearl Palace, 51, Hathroi Fort – most grown organically at the sweet shop.
Tel (0141) 237 3700 owner's farm. Offers cookery
The restaurant serves excellent courses as well. Jaipur: Niro's 
North Indian dishes. The rooftop Multi-cuisine
dining area, covered with a Jaipur: Four Seasons  Panch Batti, MI Road
peacock canopy, has a beautiful North Indian Tel (0141) 331 9372
view of the Hathroi Fort. D-43, A2, Subhash Marg, C-Scheme A local favourite, the restaurant is
Tel (0141) 331 9277 considered a landmark on the
Jaipur: Anokhi  The traditional Indian dishes bustling MI Road. Serves
Café such as dum aloo and dal outstanding North Indian and
C11, 2nd Floor, Prithviraj Rd, C-Scheme makhani are absolutely delicious. Chinese cuisine.
Tel (0141) 400 7245
Closed Public Holidays
An extension of Anokhi’s flagship
showroom, the café serves a
variety of fresh, healthy salads,
pizzas and sandwiches. Their
French press organic coffee is
a favourite among tourists.
Jaipur: Barbeque Nation 

North Indian
City Plex 1, Ashram Marg, Tonk Rd
Tel (0141) 313 8001
This popular restaurant serves
incredible chicken and mutton The lovely garden restaurant at Diggi Palace
Jaipur: Baluchi 

Pan Indian
The Lalit, Jagatpura Rd,
Malviya Nagar
Tel (0141) 331 9237
Specialises in marinaded meats
and artisanal breads, baked in an
iron tandoor rather than the
usual clay one.
Jaipur: Marble Arch 

Multi-cuisine
Jai Mahal Palace, Civil Lines
Tel (0141) 660 1023
The breakfast buffet has a wide
selection of English, French and
Indian dishes. The staff is friendly
and attentive.
Jaipur: Samode Haveli 

Rajasthani
Gangapole The spacious and earthy interiors of Baluchi
Tel (0141) 263 2407
The authentic flavours of regional Pushkar: Derby’s Café  a variety of vegetable stews and
Rajasthani cuisine vie with the Vegetarian brown rice. Their banana-honey
ambience to define the dining Hotel U-Turn, Vahara Ghat, bread is excellent.
experience here. The exquisite Chotti Basti
hand-painted murals and Tel 992 873 7798 Pushkar: Om Shiva 
beautiful frescoes in the dining The rooftop café has an amazing Multi-cuisine
hall are breathtaking. view of the Pushkar lake and the Town Centre
Vahara ghat. Serves tasty Indian Tel (0145) 277 2647
Mandawa: Castle and Italian cuisine. In addition to its great-value
Mandawa  buffet, the Italian food at this
Multi-cuisine Pushkar: Funky Monkey garden restaurant is very popular.
Mandawa Village, Jhunjhunu Cafe 
Tel (01592) 223 124 Café/ Bakery Pushkar: Sixth Sense 
Live music and dance shows Mahadev Chowk, Chotti Basti Multi-cuisine
complement the excellent buffet Tel 982 987 3439 Inn Seventh Heaven, Next to Mali Ka
of Indian and Continental dishes. This cosy little café is immensely Mandir, Chotti Basti
There are three beautiful dining popular with tourists. It serves Tel (0145) 510 5455
areas – the terrace, an indoor delicious pancakes, sandwiches Serves a delectable range of
dining hall and a verandah bar. and shakes. Their decadent pizzas, waffles and thalis, as well
home-made chocolate banana as large selection of fresh garden
Nawalgarh: Apani Dhani  bread is simply divine. salads. The dishes are served via
Vegetarian an ingenious pulley system at
Old Jhunjhunu Rd Pushkar: Honey & Spice  this rooftop restaurant.
Tel (01594) 222 239 Vegetarian
The restaurant offers healthy, Laxmi Market, Old Rangji Templer Pushkar: Tibetan Kitchen 
home-made vegetarian dishes. Tel 941 324 7156 Tibetan
Most of the ingredients are This popular restaurant serves Near Dadudura Temple, Chotti Basti
sourced from Apani Dhani’s delicious, healthy dishes such as Tel (0145) 510 51745
organic gardens. They also Known for its mix vegetable
conduct cookery classes. thentuk (noodles) and momos,
this restaurant is an excellent
Nawalgarh: Jharoka  place to try authentic Tibetan
North Indian cuisine. The yak cheese special
Grand Haveli, Bawri Gate, Jhunjhunu with the mint nana (mocktail)
Tel (01594) 225 301 is outstanding.
Choose to sit in an elegant
dining room or a lovely outdoor Pushkar: Pink Floyd Cafe 
seating area in the courtyard. Multi-cuisine
Jharoka serves tasty regional Chotti Basti, near Marwar Bus Stand
dishes and North Indian fare. Tel 982 807 2591
The lovely rooftop restaurant
Nawalgarh: Thikana  is run by ardent Pink Floyd
Rajasthani fans and is a great place for
Hotel Heritage Thikana, music lovers to relax. The
Near Bawri Gate ambience is friendly and
Tel (01594) 222 152 relaxed with classic Pink Floyd
Feast on traditional home- music plaing in the background.
cooked Rajasthani delicacies. The menu offers a variety of
The fresh produce comes The serene ambience at Marble Arch, dishes – the cheese omlette
from their own farm. Jai Mahal Palace is recommended.
SHOPS AND MARKETS

The colourful markets of the region carry street stalls and bazaars that offer glimpses
a vast and exciting range of handicrafts. of local colour, and where bargaining is a
The government-run state emporia are way of life. Delhi has some of the region’s
well stocked with merchandise at fixed most elegant shops (see pp122–3), but the
and reasonable rates. Shopping arcades charming bazars of Jaipur and Agra offer
of larger hotels cater to travellers who are visitors a chance to actually observe skilful
hard-pressed for time, though their more craftsmen at work. In the smaller towns
sophisticated boutiques are usually pricier. beyond the main cities, local crafts are often
For the more adventurous, there are the sold in quaint village stores or on the roadside.
Delhi, each locality has its

own weekly holiday. Shopping
centres in the New Delhi area
are closed on Sundays, but in
South Delhi and Karol Bagh,
the closing days are Monday
or Tuesday. By law all shops are
required to remain closed on
the main national holidays, Bright glass and plastic bangles can be
that is Republic Day (26 Jan), found at any bazaar in Delhi
Independence Day (15 Aug)
and Mahatma Gandhi’s birthday Bargaining
(Martyr’s Day, 2 Oct). Bargaining is an essential part
of the shopping experience
Pavement hawkers selling fruits and in India, and at the smaller
vegetables in Jaipur How to Pay markets, prices are quoted with
The rupee (₹) is accepted the expectation that customers
Opening Hours everywhere. The bigger will haggle. Some of the most
Most shops usually open at stores accept international familiar scenes at all bazaars
10am and shut by 7:30pm, credit cards such as VISA, are those of local shoppers
though the smaller markets MasterCard, American Express indulging in long and often
keep longer hours and many and Diners, and usually display acrimonious discussions with
24-hour shops are opening up. signs prominently inside the shopkeepers about price and
The government-run emporia shops. But they are still not very quality. Most shopkeepers are
close an hour earlier. Food common in the smaller shops tourist savvy today and will
markets open at dawn and stay and towns, and it is always usually quote a higher price
open until late evening, while sensible to keep some cash to foreigners. The best way to
the temporary bazaars that handy when travelling. Traveller’s check out prices is to browse
spring up at different localities cheques can be encashed at through a fixed-price shop like
on festivals or particular week local branches of the State Bank a government emporium.
days stay open until late at of India (see p282), but again, this This will also give you an idea
night. In Jaipur and Agra, the facility may not be available in of quality. However, the price
closing day is Sunday, but in the smaller towns. you offer to pay should be
realistic and not so low that
you miss out on a good
purchase altogether. If this
price is still not accepted
by the shopkeeper, an old
and usually very effective
bargaining tactic is to walk
away feigning indifference.
All the bigger and fancier
shops and boutiques, retail
outlets of manufacturers and
the government emporia have
fixed prices with no scope for
bargaining. Increasingly, in fact,
more shops are tagging their
goods with labels that clearly
Connaught Place shopping complex, Delhi indicate item prices.
SHOPS AND MARKETS 259
Touts equipment and clothes to pots

In the larger markets that and pans. The bazaars in Agra
are frequented by tourists, and Jaipur were originally craft
persistent touts can be a guilds and some still specialize
problem. Ignore the offers in specific local crafts such as
of fantastic bargains because textiles, jewellery, marble inlay
the prices you pay are often and leatherwork, where you
suspect. Also beware of polite can watch the craftsmen at
young men inviting you home work, admire their skills and
for a cup of tea because “home” buy directly from them.
will be a shop down the lane.
Tourist buses will of course stop
at their selected shops but you
don’t have to buy anything from
them. Try to shop for expensive
A stall selling multicoloured paper kites things at big shops with price
in Jaipur tags on their goods and beware
of of shops with “government-
Rights and Refunds approved” boards as these are
By law all shops are obliged usually private enterprises.
to give you a receipt or cash
memo for all purchases. When
buying, insist on getting one to Bazaars
which sales tax, generally seven A visit to a traditional Indian bazaar
or ten per cent of the total cost, is worth it for the experience rather
has been added. Often the than the actual shopping. These
shopkeeper will say that lively places offer
you can save on the tax fantastic bargains and A streetside stall where bargaining skills
if you do not take a a colourful are essential
receipt, but do insist atmosphere. Most
on one nevertheless. bazaars are located in Government Emporia
Refunds or the the heart The central government and
exchange of damaged Delicately inlaid of the old cities, where the state governments all run
goods are impossible marble narrow lanes are lined shops selling handicrafts and
without one and it is with rows of shops handloom textiles that are
absolutely essential for the selling a variety of merchandise, special to their region or state.
more expensive purchases. from car spare-parts, machinery, The prices are fixed and the
Bigger shops can be fussy cooking utensils and provisions products genuine. Rajasthali,
about taking back goods but to textiles and jewellery. the Rajasthan emporium,
you can talk to the manager Vegetables and other fresh concentrates on handicrafts
if absolutely necessary. produce are sold on the from Jaipur. While Delhi is a
If the shop is going to roadside. Most cities also have centre for emporia from all
ship your purchases, make weekly bazaars, and rural India the states, neither Agra nor
sure that you know all the has seasonal haats that travel Jaipur offer the same range
costs involved, including from village to village for the of regional products. October
taxes. Also, insist that all the local people to shop for is a good time for bargains
paperwork is done correctly everything from agricultural and discounts.
and you have copies of it all.
If you wish you can also ship
the larger purchases yourself
through the international
courier services (see p284).
Antiques
Antiques and art objects that
are more than 100 years old
cannot be taken out of the
country. If in doubt about your
purchases, consult the office
of the Archaeological Survey of
India (see p272). You should also
get a certificate from the shop
stating the age of the artifact. Roadsides flooded with colourful, seasonal fruit
of handmade leather goods,

from jootis and bags to saddles
and wallets, while in furniture,
there is a dazzling choice of
carved and painted tables,
chairs, screens, wall brackets,
candle-holders and lamp stands.
Jaipur was a centre of
miniature painting, and artists
now sell perfect reproductions
at a fraction of the price of
originals. Both the religious
pichhwai and the narrative phad
cloth paintings make wonderful
wall hangings. Blue pottery is
another of Jaipur’s traditional
Anokhi, Jaipur, combining traditional designs with modern-day use crafts, using delicate Persian,
Turkish and Indian designs on
Shopping in Agra inlay work ranging from tables vases, door-knobs and tiles.
The exquisite pietra dura work at and screens to boxes and ashtrays.
the Taj Mahal is still practised in
Agra by descendants of Around Jaipur
craftsmen who worked on the Shopping in Jaipur Both Sanganer and Bagru
historic monument. Replicas Jaipur is truly a shopper’s (see p208) are famous for their
of the delicate semi-precious paradise. The range of textiles blockprinted textiles dyed in
stone inlay designs are found on and handicrafts available here vegetable colours. In Rajasthan
marble and alabaster boxes and includes an irresistible selection every village has its own
bowls, tabletops, chessboards of fabrics (embroidered, block- artisans. The cobblers produce
and trays readily available in printed, tie-and-dyed), brightly decorated
Agra’s bazaars. Large wall panels as well as ready-made sandals and bags,
and ornate sofa backs can be garments. Rolls of potters mould clay into
made to order and shipped colourful quilts in light delightful terracotta
directly abroad. Plain marble, layered cotton, but bowls and plates, and
red sandstone and soapstone surprisingly warm, are the woodcarver will
items are also popular. Another piled high on streetside have wide-eyed
beautiful craft is zardozi shops, and government puppets hanging on
embroidery done on silk or emporia and larger the walls of his
velvet with gold and silver shops stock the beautiful Jaipur blue pottery workshop. The village
thread and sequins to create Mughal designed markets teem with
dress material, bags, jackets woollen carpets that are made brightly dressed men and
and shoes. in Jaipur. The city is known for women responding to the
Agra is renowned for its its jewellery which ranges from cajoling and loud calls of hawkers.
shoe industry. The designs folk designs in silver to the Among the traditional metal
are somewhat basic, but the elegant and more pricey gold cooking pots and modern
shoes are sturdy and certainly jewellery in meenakari and clothes made of synthetic fabric,
worth their price. kundan work (see p191). there are toys and trinkets, lacquer
You can also shop for cotton There is also a wide variety bangles and silver jewellery.
dhurries woven in modern or
traditional designs.
North of Delhi
Smaller towns near Delhi
have their own craft specialities.
There are several weaving
centres producing pile carpets
which are sent to Delhi and
other cities to be sold. Panipat
is famous for its attractive
cotton floor coverings and
woven home furnishings.
In Saharanpur, you will find
all kinds of woodcarved items
in intricate designs and brass Weaving a carpet on a traditional pit-loom
DIRECTORY
Government Textiles Paintings and Shoes
Emporia Objets D’art
Anokhi Bharat Boot House
Handloom House C 11, 2nd Floor, Juneja Art Gallery 87, Johari Bazaar, near
21, MI Rd, Jaipur. KK Square, Prithviraj 6–7, Ground Floor, LMB Hotel, Jaipur.
Tel (0141) 236 5331. Rd, Jaipur. Lakshmi Complex, Tel (0141) 257 7914.
Tel (0141) 400 7244. MI Rd, Jaipur.
Khadi Ghar Mojari
Tel (0141) 403 4964.
MI Rd, Jaipur. Cottons Bhawani Villa, Gulab Path,
Tel (0141) 237 3745. Hari Bhawan, Jacob Rd, Saurashtra Chomu House, Jaipur.
Civil Lines, Jaipur. Oriental Arts Tel (0141) 237 7037.
Oswal Emporium
Tel (0141) 222 3870. 3–4, Opposite Ayurveda
30, Munoro Rd, Sadar
College, Inside Zoravar Marble Inlay
Bazaar, Agra. Naika Singh Gate, Amer Rd.
Tel (0562) 222 5711. Tholia Building, Tel (0141) 263 0242. Akbar International
Rajasthali MI Rd, Jaipur. 289, Fatehabad Rd, Agra.
Tel (0141) 236 2664. Shree Ganpati Arts
MI Rd, opposite Ajmeri Tel (0562) 233 0076.
S-17, Golimar Garden,
Gate, Jaipur. Ratan Textiles Amer Rd, Jaipur. Ganesi Lal
Tel (0141) 510 3329. Shop No. 5, Shalimar Tel (0141) 267 2212. International
Rajasthan State Bagh, Chitrakoot Clarks Shiraz, Agra.
Ajmer Rd, Tagore Ved Pal Sharma
Handloom Dev. Tel (0562) 222 6114.
Nagar, Jaipur. Banno
Corp. Ltd. Shop No. 1401,
Gulab Path, Chomu Tel (0141) 222 2526 UP Handicrafts
Chanakya Marg, Complex
House, Jaipur. Shilpi Handicrafts Subhas Chowk, Jaipur. Handicrafts Nagar,
Tel (0141) 237 1109. Near Siliberi, Sanganer. Tel (0141) 260 3450. Fatehabad Road,
Tel (0141) 273 1106.
Jewellery Blue Pottery
Taj Ganj, Agra.
Soma Shop Tel (0562) 233 3167.
Amrapali 5, Jacob Rd, Civil Neerja International
Tholia Building, Panch Lines, Jaipur. Anand Bhawan, Jacob Rd, Bazaars
Batti, MI Rd, Jaipur. Tel (0141) 222 2778. Civil Lines, Jaipur.
Tel (0141) 237 7940. Agra
Tel (0141) 411 2609
Embroidered Johari Bazaar
Bhuramal
Textiles Handmade Paper Cotton dhurries.
Rajmal Surana
Kinari Bazaar
Johari Bazaar, Jaipur.
Indian Crafts Salim’s Paper Jewellery and zari work.
Tel (0141) 257 0429.
Gallery Gramodyog Rd, Sanganer. Taj Ganj
Dwarka’s Fatehabad Rd, Agra. Tel (0141) 273 0222. Marble inlay.
61 B, Sardar Patel Marg, Tel (0562) 223 0336.
C Scheme, Jaipur. Books, Tea Jaipur
Thar Inc. and Spices Johari Bazaar,
Tel (0141) 236 9798.
65, Mathur Vaishya Gopalji ka Rasta,
Gem Palace Nagar, Tonk Rd, Books Corner Haldiyon ka Rasta
MI Rd, Jaipur. Sanganer, Jaipur. Shop No. 82, Jewellery and
Tel (0141) 237 4175. Tel (0141) 272 1913. MI Road, Jaipur. tie-and-dye textiles.
Tel (0141) 236 6323. Khajanewalon ka Rasta
Koh-i-Noor
41, MG Rd, Agra.
Carpets and Marble carving.
Bookwise
Tel (0562) 246 0855.
Dhurries Mall 21, MI Rd, Jaipur. Kishanpol Bazaar
Ambika Exports Tel (0141) 236 4755. Tie-and-dye textiles.
Munshi
Naila House, Moti Maniharon ka Rasta
Ganeshi Lal Grah Sangrah
Doongri Rd, Jaipur. Lac bangles.
& Son Dept Store
Tel (0141) 261 5059. Nehru Bazaar
9, MG Rd, Agra. Khasa Kothi Circle,
Embroidered jootis.
Tel (0562) 233 0168. Jaipur Rugs Villa Station Rd, Jaipur.
Ramganj Bazaar
G 250, Mansarovar Tel (0141) 220 3600.
Silver Mountain Shoes.
Shop No. 141, Industrial Area, Maharaja Exports
Mirza Islam Rd, Jaipur. Tel (0141) Fatehabad Rd,
Jaipur. Tel (0141) 239 8948. Near MG Tower, Agra.
400 1603. Tel (05612) 400 5622.
Kanu Carpet
Surana Jewellers Factory Saroj Handicrafts
B 7E, Surana Enclave, 8/166/E, Purani and Arts
Sawai Ramsingh Rd, Mandi, Fatehabad Rd, A-2, Tilak Marg, C-Scheme,
Jaipur. Taj Ganj, Agra. Nandanam Apts, Jaipur.
Tel (0141) 237 2544. Tel (0562) 233 1307. Tel (0141) 511 0927.
What to Buy
The bazaars, markets and boutiques of Delhi, Agra and Jaipur
showcase the wide range of the region’s arts and crafts. In
many places shoppers have the joy of watching artisans at
work and buying directly from them. The quality can vary,
but the range is unbelievable, from exotic, aromatic spices
to ceramics and handicrafts, carpets, textiles and jewellery.
There are also elegant contemporary interpretations of
traditional design.
Jewelled and enamelled
armband
Jewellery
Antique and jewellery shops stock
exquisite pieces of gem-encrusted
kundan and enamelled
meenakari jewellery. Also
available are the silver
ornaments worn by
local men and women.
Silver anklets, bracelet and armband
Hand-crafted
cutlery
A pencil holder
A goblet in
mixed metal
Metal
Bronze and brass objects of
everyday use, such as pots,
lamps or boxes, are widely
available along with an Silver fan
exciting range of artifacts in (pankha)
silver and other metals created Brass pots
by contemporary designers. (lotas)
Pottery
Abundant earthenware vessels
and toys made by local potters
can be seen stacked along the
roadside. Commonly found are
a sophisticated range of
patterned tableware from
Khurja, and Jaipur’s famous
Door-knobs blue pottery.
Terracotta
votive figure
Jaipur blue pottery jar A folk

Tiles with with lid animal in
floral motifs terracotta
Textiles
Blockprints and silk and cotton woven
textiles in a dazzling choice of colours
and designs can be bought by the yard
or ready-made garments, scarves and
saris. Floor coverings are either the thick
pile carpets or the colourful cotton
dhurries used in Indian homes.
Pile carpet with floral design
Window Scarves by
blinds Abraham
& Thakore
Light-weight
cotton quilts
Herbal Products
Traditional natural remedies have been
re-invented to suit the contemporary need
for eco-friendly cosmetics, soothing oils and
lotions, tea and joss sticks (incense).
Joss sticks
(agarbatti)
Traditional perfumes
(attar)
Ayurvedic cosmetics
Soap
Natural Rosewater
Herbal tea
Handmade
Handicrafts paper box
Materials such as
handmade paper,
leather, stone and
wood are used to
make decorative and
functional objects
such as shoes, plates, Embroidered
boxes and puppets. slippers
ENTERTAINMENT
Except for Delhi, which offers a wide range during the peak season. One reason for
of cultural entertainment round the year this is that most Indians prefer to spend their
(see pp124–5), options in most other cities evenings or holidays with the family. As outings
are often restricted to the cultural fare offered invariably include children, the cinema is a
by the hotels. Although both Agra and Jaipur favourite, while religious festivals, which offer
have a strong tradition of folk and classical free entertainment, are also popular. However,
performing arts, these can only be seen dining out is a rising fad among the urban elite.
Information Sources Classical Music

Your travel agent is the best and Dance
source of information on what Kathak and Hindustani music
is happening, where and when. (see pp34–5) flourished in this
Otherwise, calendars of cultural region, patronized first by the
events are available from the Mughals, and later by the
tourist offices and also at hotels. regional courts. In an attempt
Local newspapers also list daily to revive these traditional art
events and advertise major forms, classical dance and music
cultural festivals, such as the festivals are now held regularly
Taj Mahotsav (see p45). Small in the cities during the peak
tourist-oriented local publications, tourist season sponsored by
such as Jaipur Vision, available at various cultural organizations.
book shops and hotel receptions, Among auditoria, the Sur Sadan
also carry listings of cinemas, in Agra, and the Ravindra Manch
restaurants and bars, swimming in Jaipur, are the most popular
pools and shops. venues, while on special
occasions, well-known dancers
also perform before the main
Booking Tickets deity of the Govind Dev Temple
All the larger hotels in the in Jaipur. In Mathura and
region have regular evening Brindavan the religious festivals
performances of classical of Holi and Janmashtami also
music and dance in their main attract classical dancers and A Rajasthani folk dancer, dressed in a
restaurants. The dinner cover singers. The devotional Sufi traditional costume
charge usually includes the qawwali, originally based on
performance. But if a show the classical raga idiom (see p34), are a daily ritual, while during
at a theatre or hall is announced, is now a popular concert form. the Urs festivities, special all-
the tickets are available at the However, the best places to night soirées are held.
venue and your hotel or travel hear authentic qawwalis are
agent will be able to book at the Sufi shrines at Ajmer
them for you. and Fatehpur Sikri where they Folk Theatre, Music
and Dance
Few areas in this region
can match the colour and
vibrancy of Rajasthan’s
indigenous folk forms. Sadly,
folk theatre and itinerant
storytellers like the phad bards
are fast losing their audiences
and can often only be seen in
smaller places. Yet, since Jaipur
is the capital state, some of the
best bards and dancers come
here to perform at urban
centres such as the Jawahar
Kala Kendra. The ghumar
dance, performed by women
during religious festivals and
weddings, and the kalbelia or
snake dance of a nomadic tribe
The bhopa musicians performing round a campfire can be seen at hotel shows.
E N T E R TA I N M E N T 265
Folk singers, such as the

bhopas, the Manganiyars
or Langas, come regularly
to the Pushkar Fair and smaller
towns, attracting people with
their rich and expressive
repertoire of folk ballads.
During the Janmashtami
festival (Aug–Sep) the Raslila,
an enactment of the story of
Lord Krishna (see p34), is held
in the Brajbhumi area of
Brindavan and Mathura (see
p165). Local Ramlila’s are staged Box office at a popular multiplex
all over North India during
Dussehra (Oct–Nov) (see p41). Cinema lauding the directors’
These folk productions, often Cinema is still the country’s sensitive portrayal of incidents
loud and melodramatic, most popular form of entertain- that more mainstream cinema
have a unique vivacity ment. Even the smallest town may consider inconsequential.
and charm. has a theatre screening the A visit to the local cinema
latest Hindi blockbuster. Jaipur’s will give you an insight
Raj Mandir, actually a theatre into Indian culture and the
Puppet Shows hall with a flamboyantly kitschy most frequented form of
Puppetry is a strong folk interior, also screens World popular entertainment.
tradition practised by the Cup cricket matches. Indian
Bhatt pastoral community in films are a fantastic mix of
Rajasthan. String puppets, called action and romance, song Nightlife and Bars
kathputlis, play out heroic stories and dance, shot in fabulous Except for the five-star hotels,
of popular folk and legendary sets and locales. The films range options for nightlife in Agra and
characters. The romance of from the crass to the brilliant. Jaipur are limited. The luxury
Dhola and Maru, royal lovers Though art films have won hotels all have their own bars
who were separated only a few many international awards, and where there is a good choice of
weeks after they were betrothed directors such as Satyajit Ray are both local and foreign liquors
but finally reunited, is one of the considered among the world’s and the atmosphere is pleasant.
most popular puppet shows. best, their films are rarely shown A few other places in both cities
The riveting performances of commercially. Nonetheless, a are licensed to have bars. The
these travelling puppeteers is select audience continues to choice of spirits is limited but
seen at every fair and festival. remain loyal to these films, the atmosphere is lively.
DIRECTORY
Performing Welcomgroup Inox Bars
Art Centres Rajputana Crystal Palm Mall, C Scheme,
Palace Sheraton Cheeta
Sardar Patel Marg, Jaipur.
Birla Auditorium Palace Rd, Jaipur. Hotel Jaipur Ashok, Jaipur.
Tel (0141) 511 7299.
Statue Circle, Jaipur. Tel (0141) 510 0100. Tel (0141) 220 4491.
Tel (0141) 238 5224. Raj Mandir Polo Bar
Cinemas C 16, Bhagwan Das Rd, Rambagh Palace, Bhawani
Jawahar Kala Kendra Panch Batti, Jaipur. Singh Rd, Jaipur.
Jawaharlal Nehru Big Cinema
Tel (0141) 237 4694. Tel (0141) 238 5700.
Marg, Jaipur. Agra: TDI Mall, Phase 1,
Taj Nagri Scheme, Agra. Sanjay Talkies Rajwada Library Bar
Tel (0141) 270 6560.
Tel 936 810 3619. Sanjay Place, Rajvilas, Jaipur.
Ram Niwas Bagh Jaipur: B 6, Central Spine, Civil Court, Agra. Tel (0141) 268 0101.
Behind Central Vidhyadhar Nagar. Tel (0562) 285 0384. Rana Sanga
Museum, Jaipur. Tel 931 410 6185.
Shree Roof Top Bar
Tel (0141) 256 5244. Entertainment Mansingh Palace, Jaipur.
National Highway 2,
Paradise Tel (0141) 237 8771.
Ravindra Manch Byepass Rd, Agra.
Jawahar Circle, Jaipur.
JN Marg, Jaipur. Tel (0562) 285 3737.
Tel (0141) 512 7591.
Tel (0141) 261 9061.
Golcha Chandra Space 1-2-3
Sur Sadan Mahal City Plaza, Bani Park,
Mahatma Gandhi Rd, Near New Gate, Jaipur. Jaipur. Tel (0141)
Agra. Tel (0562) 285 4498. Tel (0141) 257 7011. 220 8444.
SPORTS AND
OUTDOOR ACTIVITIES
Previously, only the traditional sports such while the tumultous mountain streams
as cricket and polo provided visitors with above Rishikesh are ideal for white-water
opportunities for participating in outdoor rafting and kayaking. A camel or horse
activities. But today, the tourism industry safari is a good way to experience the
offers a vast diversity of choices for specialist haunting beauty of the Rajasthan desert,
holidays. For sports lovers, the main cities, and wildlife enthusiasts can visit the national
especially Delhi and Jaipur, offer clubs and parks for tiger-spotting and birdwatching.
grounds for golf, tennis, swimming and For those wishing to delve deeper into the
riding. Those in search of adventure can mystique of the region, there are centres
explore the foothills of the Himalayas and for yoga and meditation, naturopathy
the Aravallis by trekking or rock climbing, and spiritual studies.
Spectator Sports great demand, even though

Cricket has emerged as the the more important matches
main national sport and, no are broadcast on the national
matter where you travel, you network and sports channels.
will see men and boys playing Indian football is yet to reach
cricket. India hosted the 2011 international standards, and
World Cup and won the tour- world-class matches are rarely
nament, an event that further held in the country. However,
fuelled the passion for the game passions run high at the
and its players, who enjoy a Ambedkar Stadium in Delhi
celebrity status equal to film where national tournaments
stars. Each year, several are held, and a view from
international teams come the stands can be a very
to India to play test and one- enjoyable experience on
day matches in various cities. a sunny winter afternoon. A swimming tournament at the 2010
The scenic Feroze Shah Kotla Commonwealth Games, New Delhi
ground in Delhi is a major
venue for the Indian Premier Tennis and Swimming international acclaim, there is a
League which is based on In Delhi, the Lawn Tennis heightened interest in the sport.
similar lines as European foot- Association maintains some However, because of the scarcity
ball leagues, and has captured excellent tennis courts. So do of public tennis courts they are
the imagination of the country’s some of the city’s clubs and often booked in advance and the
cricket enthusiasts. In Jaipur, sports complexes. In Jaipur, best option for a quick game is
the Sawai Mansingh Stadium the main tennis courts are at at your own hotel’s tennis court.
is the main ground where the Jai Club, just off Mirza Come summer and all clubs,
the sport is played. Ismail (MI) Road. Both these sports centres and five-star
Advertisements for national cities are venues for the Davis hotels in the region open their
and international matches Cup matches. With such great swimming pools. The most
appear well in advance in all the Indian tennis players as Mahesh easily accessible to visitors
newspapers, and tickets (usually Bhupathi, Leander Paes and are in the five-star hotels,
on sale ten days earlier), are in Rohan Bopanna enjoying usually with attached saunas
and a gym. Non-residents can
take temporary membership
or pay a fee to use hotel pools.
Golf
All major cities have well-
maintained golf courses. In
Delhi, the oldest and most
prestigious course is at the
Delhi Golf Club, located next
to The Oberoi Hotel. This 27-hole
course, creatively developed
The open-air Jawaharlal Nehru Stadium, New Delhi around a cluster of beautiful
SPORTS AND OUTDOOR ACTIVITIES 267
medieval pavilions, hosts many

international tournaments in
the winter season. Military
cantonments, both here and
at Agra, have their own golf
courses. Just outside Delhi, the
Classic Golf Resort is publicized
as a weekend getaway, but is
open to golfers through the
week. In Jaipur, the Rambagh
Palace Hotel has its own golf
course and offers golf sets on
hire for residents to play on the
premises. Most golf clubs offer
temporary membership to
visitors for a fee. Teeing off at a scenic golf course, Jaipur
the Rajasthan Polo Club near camping along the way.

Riding the Rambagh Palace Hotel. Camel safaris, organized
Both Delhi and the Jaipur Ramgarh and Dundlod are by travel agents from Jaipur,
area have excellent riding major polo centres, where the and by most heritage hotels,
clubs which non-members game is also taught. In March, especially in Kishangarh (see
may use for a nominal fee. visitors may see some traditional p219), Mandawa and Nawalgarh
The Delhi Riding Club has elephant polo at Jaipur’s (see p241), promise unexpected
a stable full of well-groomed Chaugan Stadium. glimpses of desert life and a
horses for hire. In Shekhawati, first-hand acquaintance with
the heritage Dunlod Fort has the ship of the desert. Prices
a polo ground, organizes Heli-tourism vary, depending on the duration
horse safaris and teaches Helicopter package trips are a of the safari. Camping out in the
equestrian skills. new departure for the tourism desert is a romantic experience,
industry in India. Apart from especially at night around a camp-
the transport by helicopter, fire with your camel driver
they include lodging, meals relating thrilling stories of
and sight-seeing. Heli-getaways desert lovers and villains.
in the region, organized by Elephant and horse safaris can
Deccan Aviation for those who also be organized for groups
can afford it and are strapped through private travel agents.
for time, so far include Agra,
Jaipur-Sariska, and Jaipur-
Ranthambhore. From Delhi, Children’s Activities
World Expeditions India Delhi offers much to amuse
organizes heli-skiing in winter, children, beginning with a
and also cycling tours. sprawling Zoo. The National
Science Centre and the Nehru
Visitors enjoying a horse safari at the Planetarium organize special
Dunlod Fort in Shekhawati, Rajasthan Jeep and Desert Safari shows for children on certain
An adventurous way to see events, such as eclipses. The Rail
Polo the countryside is by safari. Museum is also a great hit with
Polo was once the preserve For wildlife sanctuaries, jeep children, and offers rides on
of royalty and the army, and safaris are common, with a special toy train.
the Jaipur maharajas used to
personally lead their teams
to tournaments abroad.
Corporate sponsorship has
now revived interest in the
game, and a major attraction is
the gaiety, pomp and glamour
attached to it. Winter is the main
polo season in Delhi and Jaipur.
Most tournaments in Delhi are
played at the polo grounds
adjacent to the Race Course
on Kamal Ataturk Road, and in
Jaipur, matches are played at Experiencing desert life on a camel safari in Rajasthan
There are three main national also practised and taught at

parks in Rajasthan. Ranthambhore many centres, such as the
(see pp228–9) and Sariska Ayurveda Kendra Clinic.
(see pp214–15) are known In Delhi, the Kairali Health
for their tiger populations, Resort specializes in ayur vedic
while birdwatchers will find oil massages. Pranic healing,
many exotic inhabitants a method that channels positive
at Bharatpur’s forces through the chakras or
Keoladeo Ghana energy centres in the body, is
(see pp172–3). Tours taught at the
can be arranged Aurobindo
through Rajasthan Ashram.
Tourism. Near Those who
Delhi are are interested
smaller in Buddhist
A man rock climbing in the hills sanctuaries such philosophy will
of Rajasthan as the Sultanpur A yoga asana find information
Sanctuary (see p120). on this area of
Camping, Trekking The World Wide Fund for study in Tibet House and
and Rock Climbing Nature, India (WWF), at the Tushita Mahayana
The Himalayan foothills above with its headquarters in Delhi, Meditation Centre.
Rishikesh have ideal locations has an active programme The Vipassana Sadhana
for camping, trekking and rock of activities, such as camps, Sansthan can provide details
climbing. As most of Rajasthan’s film shows and seminars. of courses in vipassana, an
forts nestle in the craggy slopes old and efficacious form of
of hillsides, they also offer meditation, while astrology
excellent opportunities for Cultural Studies and palmistry are taught at
rock climbing and exploring Yoga and meditation are taught the Bharatiya Vidya Bhavan.
the neighbouring countryside. at ashrams found in most cities. Triveni Kala Sangam (see p80)
Just beyond South Delhi, near In Delhi, at the Sivananda Yoga holds short courses in classical
Sohna in Gurgaon, Vedanta Nataraja singing, dance and in painting.
there are many Centre there is a Crafts skills can be studied at
attractive hiking good programme the Crafts Museum. Some travel
trails. The best all year round. agencies have devised special
source of The best centres interest tours on subjects such
information on are, however, found as architecture, traditional crafts
these activities is in Rishikesh, where and spiritualism, and can draw
the Indian Logo of a yoga centre some of the best up itineraries and organize tours
Mountaineering in Rishikesh gurus conduct to suit individual choices. These
Federation, and courses of yoga agencies have government
private operators, such as and Hindu philosophy all recognition and are members
Milestones and Outdoor year round, and an International of international organizations.
Adventures (see p235), who Yoga Festival is held here every A “Gourmet Journey through
specialize in organizing treks. year (see p45). Naturopathy and India” is one such tour on
Most organizers can provide ayurveda, two Indian systems the agenda of Indo Asia
reliable guides, as well as that rely on the healing powers Tours who engage specialists
campsite equipment such as of natural foods and herbs, are as their consultants.
tents and sleeping bags, though
you may feel more comfortable
taking your own things. The
best time for this activity is in
the summer months from April
to June, and after the monsoon
from October to early December,
before the weather gets too cold.
Ecotourism
This relatively new concept
in tourism, which combines
various aspects of nature
study along with participation
in conservation activities, is
steadily gaining ground in India. Trekking in the Himalayan foothills
SPORTS AND OUTDOOR ACTIVITIES 269
and professionally trained Water Sports

private groups, such as Ramgarh lake (see p201)
Outdoor Adventures (see p235) near Jaipur, where some
and Himalayan River Runners. events of the 1984 Asian
All the required equipment – Games were held, is being
tents, rafts, life-saving jackets developed by Rajasthan
and helmets – is supplied, Tourism as a venue for
as well as meals. water sports with facilities
for parasailing, water-skiing
and wind surfing. Currently,
Fishing you can hire rowing, pedal
Fishing is permitted in many and motor boats for a ride
River rafters relaxing on the banks of the region’s rivers and lakes. on the lake. Also, in and around
of the Ganges But you must obtain a licence Delhi a number of man-made
to do so from the designated lakes have facilities for boating
Kayaking and local authority on site. In Delhi, and water sports.
River Rafting the Okhla Barrage, as
Just north of Rishikesh, a series well as the nearby
of rapids on the Ganges as it Surajkund and
rushes down the mountains Badkhal lakes,
make for excellent kayaking are popular with
and river rafting (see p149) amateur anglers.
opportunities. A normal trip Further north, where
stretches over three days as hill streams join the
participants are carefully Chandrabhaga and
introduced to the intensity the Ganges, par-
of the rapids. The best time ticularly above
for rafting and kayaking is Haridwar and
from September to April, Rishikesh, the rivers
when campsites are set up on yield a good catch
the pristine beaches along the of the local variety of
river both by the Uttar Pradesh carp and other fish,
State Government (see p273), though rarely trout. White-water rafting on the River Ganges
DIRECTORY
Sports Children’s Cultural Studies Vipassana Sadhana
Activities Sansthan
Classic Golf Resort Aurobindo Ashram Village Bhatti, opposite
NH8 (to Gurgaon), National Off Aurobindo Marg, Radha Saomi Satsang,
Distt Gurgaon. Science Centre Delhi. Tel (011) 2656 7863. Chatterpur Temple
Tel (0124) 237 8849. Bhairon Marg, Pragati Rd, Delhi.
Ayurveda Tel (011) 2645 2772.
Maidan, Delhi. Map 6 D1. Kendra Clinic
Delhi Golf Club
Zakir Hussain Marg, Tel (011) 2337 1893. Rishikesh.
∑ nscdelhi.org Tel (0135) 243 0626.
River Rafting
Delhi. Map 5 C4.
Tel (011) 2430 7100. Nehru Planetarium Indo Asia Tours Himalayan River
∑ delhigolfclub.org Teen Murti House, Delhi. 56, Insititutional Area, Runners
Sector 44, Gurgaon. 101, Ashirvad Building,
Map 4 E3.
Delhi Riding Club Tel (0124) 453 4500/600.
Green Park, Delhi.
Safdarjung Rd, Delhi. Tel (011) 2301 4504. Tel (011) 2685 2602.
Map 4 F5. Kairali Health Resort ∑ hrrindia.com
Tel (011) 2301 1891. Camping D 120, Andheria More, World Expeditions
Jai Club
and Trekking Mehrauli, Delhi. India
Tel (011) 6566 4447. G-1, MG Bhavan,
Mahaveer Marg, Indian ∑ kairali.com Madangir, Delhi.
C Scheme, Jaipur. Mountaineering
Tel (0141) 237 2321/22. Sivananda Tel (011) 4164 9358.
Federation
Benito Juarez Road, Delhi. Yoga Vedanta
Rajasthan Polo Club Nataraja Centre
Ambedkar Circle, Near Tel (011) 2411 7935.
∑ indmount.org A 41, Kailash
Rambagh Palace, Jaipur. Colony, Delhi.
Tel (0141) 222 7375. Tel (011) 3206 9070.
Ecotourism ∑ sivananda.org.in
Heli-Tourism
WWF India Tushita Mahayana
Deccan Aviation 172-B, Lodhi Estate, Delhi. Meditation Centre
G-11, Haus Khas Market, Map 5 A4. 9, Padmini Enclave, Delhi.
Delhi. Tel (011) 2652 0036. Tel (011) 4150 4815. Tel (011) 2651 3400.
SURVIVAL
GUIDE
Practical Information 272–285

Travel Information 286–295
272 SUR VIVAL GUIDE
PRACTICAL INFORMATION
India’s most popular travel route, via the and Uttar Pradesh. There are innumerable
three cities of Delhi, Agra and Jaipur, receives travel agencies in these cities but it is wise
the majority of the 5 million tourists who to approach a reputable one when booking
visit the country annually. Because of this, your accommodation, travel tickets and
the range of transport, accommodation and sightseeing tours. It is also sensible to plan
information offered in these cities is among and book in advance if you wish to make
the best in India. The government-run a visit in the winter, since this is the peak
Incredible India tourist department has a tourist season. The more remote areas
centrally located office in Delhi and many are still not equipped to cater to the
overseas branches. You can also get up-to- international traveller who may be used
date visitor information at the local state to better banking facilities or prefer to
tourist departments of Delhi, Rajasthan pay by credit card.
uncomfortable. Climate and least two months to elapse

rainfall charts can be found between visits or seek special
on pages 42–5. dispensation from an Indian
Embassy or High Commission for
earlier admission into the country.
Visas and Passports
All visitors from outside India
need a visa to enter the country. Customs Information
There are three types of tourist When entering India, visitors are
visa available from Indian Consular allowed upto 950 ml of alcohol
Offices around the world: the and 200 cigarettes duty-free.
15-day single/double entry In case the value of an item
visa, the 90-day, or the longer exceeds the duty-free allowance,
multiple entry visa for six months. duty shall be calculated on the
Getting a visa extension excess amount. If you are
beyond 15 days is a complicated carrying more than US$10,000
procedure. First, you must collect in cash, you are expected to
an extension form from the fill in the Currency Declaration
Visitors in local attire enjoying a rural Ministry of Home Affairs office, Form at the airport, to be
festival in Rajasthan then fill it in and submit it to a certified by a Customs official.
Foreigners’ Regional Registration Antiques over a hundred years
When to Go Office (FRRO), where it will be old and wildlife products, such as
The finest weather for travelling processed. Finally, you must go animal pelts, shahtoosh shawls or
in north India is from October back to the Ministry of Home ivory cannot be taken out of the
to March. This coincides with Affairs to receive the visa extension. country. Contact the Ministry
an abundance of festivals and Note that if you intend to of Environment & Forests or
cultural events, especially re-enter India on a multiple entry the Archaeological Survey
from October to December visa, you must allow a period of at of India (ASI) for more details.
(see pp44–5). Though it can
get quite cold at night during
December and January, the days
are crisp and sunny. The brief
spring of February and March
is beautiful, with the flowers
in full bloom.
Before you travel it is worth
thinking about the extremes of
Indian weather. It is best to avoid
the Indian summer, from April
to June, when the region is
unbearably hot, dry and dusty.
The bad weather is compounded
by frequent power cuts. From
July to September it is monsoon
season. The humidity accentuates
the heat, making travel very Brightly coloured blossoms adorning a Delhi roundabout
Indira Gandhi International Airport, Delhi
P R A C T I C A L I N F O R M AT I O N 273
The trafficking of narcotics often a modest amount, Language

and psychotropic substances although admission to World There are many regional
is punishable by imprisonment. Heritage Sites costs more. If you languages spoken in India.
are carrying a camera or video In the northern region, both
camera you might have to pay Hindi and English are used as
an additional charge to use it. official languages. In the cities,
Most places of worship do not English is spoken by the majority
have any admission fee but of people, especially by those
usually have a donation box. who deal with tourists – taxi
drivers and guides – and in hotels,
shops and offices. However, it
Visa stamped on a tourist passport Opening Hours is useful and appreciated if you
upon arrival All banks and government know a few basic phrases in
offices are closed on three Hindi, the colloquial language
Embassies and national holidays: Republic of the region (see p312). Road
Consulates Day (26 Jan), Independence signs and numbers are written
Most countries have diplomatic Day (15 Aug) and Gandhi Jayanti in both English and Hindi.
missions in Delhi, but none in (2 Oct) (see p43). Markets are
Jaipur or Agra. Consular officials also closed on these days. Each
can reissue passports and help year an up-to-date holiday list is
in case of theft, imprisonment, issued by the Indian government,
hospitalization or other such which includes all major religious
emergencies (see pp278–9). Con- festivals. Bear in mind that the
tact details for some embassies dates for these festivals vary
are listed on page 275. according to the lunar calendar.
Keep an updated holiday list
handy before planning your
Tourist Information trip. Certain religious holidays
The Incredible India tourist offices are termed “restricted”, so while Sign for an auto-rickshaw stand, in both
offer insightful information on sites may be open, most staff Hindi and English
travel throughout India. The may be on leave.
counter in the arrival hall of Delhi’s Monuments and museums Public Conveniences
Indira Gandhi International Airport are generally open from 10am It is best to use the facilities
is an ideal place to get practical to 6pm, and are closed on in hotels and restaurants.
help when first entering the Mondays and public holidays. Most hotels will allow non-
country. However, for more reliable Opening times for shops are residents to use their toilets.
and detailed advice on Agra, Jaipur usually from 10am to 7:30pm, Wayside toilets have poor
and Delhi go to the respective while tourist and convenience hygiene and should be
state tourism departments of Uttar stores remain open much later. avoided. However, those
Pradesh, Rajasthan and Delhi Many malls are open on public known as Sulabh Shauchalayas
Tourism. The staff are helpful holidays, offering most items at (provided by the local council),
and can give plenty of tips on discounted prices. In Agra and are clean, easy to spot on
what to see and how to get Jaipur all markets are closed main city roads and charge
around. They also offer an on Sundays, whereas in Delhi a nominal amount for use.
accommodation booking service. they shut on different days They are of the Indian
Tourist brochures and maps are depending on the market. squatting variety and can be
usually distributed free of charge. difficult to use if you are not
At popular sights, amateur used to them. It is a good idea
guides swarm around travellers to carry spare toilet paper as
hoping to be hired. You should it may not be provided.
ignore them and look for
English-speaking guides
wearing a badge that certifies Travelling with Children
government tourist department Child-minding services for
approval. All tourist offices, travellers are rare, but children
travel agents and hotels can can accompany their parents
arrange a certified expert for to most places around India.
you at a fixed hourly rate. Remember to protect children
(and adults) against the fierce
sun, and make sure they drink
Admission Prices only mineral water. Most
Most museums, historical reputable restaurants have
monuments and wildlife parks Tourist bargaining with a vendor in a high-chairs available for
charge an entrance fee. This is marketplace kids as well.
274 SUR VIVAL GUIDE
Gay and Lesbian to do so. When hiring a car or a

Travellers taxi, get the hotel to make the
Homosexuality is still booking for you. Hitchhiking is
not widely accepted not advisable under any
in India, although circumstances. A confident
there is a burgeoning attitude, common sense and
gay scene in the wariness can help women
major metropolitan travellers tackle problems that
cities. Overt displays arise from travelling alone.
of public affection
or provocative dress
are frowned upon What to Take
regardless of Pack clothes that are suitable
sexuality. For more for the climatic conditions
Itmad-Ud-Daulah’s Tomb, Agra information on the (see p272). At the peak of winter
local gay and lesbian you will require warm clothes –
Travellers with scene, visit www.gaydelhi.org. a jacket or a thick pullover, socks
Special Needs and warm trousers, especially
Facilities for the disabled are still during the early hours of the
not well developed in public Women Travellers day and at night. For autumn
buildings and places of interest, Women, both Indian and and spring, pack light woollens
as ramps or rails are seldom foreign, face a certain amount and clothes in natural fibres that
provided. However, airports and of unwanted attention from are easy to wash. In summer,
all main railway stations have men in north India, even though only loose cotton clothes are
available ramps and escalators, “eve-teasing” is a punishable comfortable. Indian-made,
and porters to carry your offence. When travelling alone, ready-to-wear outfits for men
luggage. Pavements are difficult women can face problems – and women are available
to negotiate in a wheelchair as from being stared at, to more everywhere. Choose easy-to-
they are often bumpy. Only select active harassment such as remove footwear as you will
hotels are equipped to suit the suggestive comments and have to take off your shoes
needs of the disabled traveller, unwanted body contact on buses while visiting places of worship.
although the staff will usually be and in other crowded places. A first-aid kit is a must
helpful. It is advisable to check Such uncivilized behaviour is (see p280). It is advisable to
with the hotel for specific facilities unacceptable, but unfortunately, carry some personal medication
before you make any bookings. it is still up to women to take to avoid any health hazards,
certain precautions. Avoid although pharmacies stock
wearing clothes that can be most things (see p278). Bring
Student and thought of as provocative in an umbrella or a light raincoat,
Senior Travellers public places, though they can and a torch should be packed
In general, older people are be safely worn indoors. Ignore for unexpected and sometimes
accorded great respect in India. men lounging at street corners, lengthy power cuts.
While most tourist attractions and if their attention gets
don’t offer discounts for senior offensive, swiftly walk away or
travellers, discounted fares are head towards a member of the Time
available for travel on Indian police force, if there is one nearby. In spite of its size, India has
Railways. Visit a tourist Beware of men who try to draw only one standard time. It is
information centre for you into a conversation. Threaten 5.5 hours ahead of Greenwich
more details (see p273). to call the police if they continue Mean Time (GMT), 4.5 hours
For students and young
travellers, all three cities have
branches of the Youth Hostels
Association of India (YHAI).
Though it is not necessary to
be a member of the association
to book a room, members do
get priority and cheaper rates.
In Delhi, the Vishwa Yuvak
Kendra and YMCA provide
institutional but comfortable
accommodation. Apart from
these hostels, plenty of other
cheap options are available. Do
not leave money and important
documents in your room. Visitors enjoying a camel ride at the Pushkar fair
behind Australian Eastern Conversions of pollution and rubbish. These

Standard Time, and 10.5 The metric system is most measures include compressed
hours ahead of US Eastern commonly used in India. natural gas (CNG)-propelled
Standard Time. public transport (see p286) and
For all official work, the Imperial to Metric banning the use of polythene
Western Gregorian calendar is 1 inch = 2.5 centimetres bags – although some of these
used in India. This avoids the 1 foot = 30 centimetres laws are not widely practiced.
confusion of traditional calendars, 1 mile = 1.6 kilometres Separating garbage into
that vary based on religions and 1 ounce = 28 grams recyclable, non-recyclables
regions. For example, at the 1 pound = 454 grams and biodegradable waste is
Millennium, the official Indian 1 pint = 0.6 litres also observed in the city.
calendar (Saka era), had reached 1 gallon = 4.5 litres In Agra and Jaipur, environ-
only 1922, whereas the old mental consciousness is still
Hindu calendar, which follows Metric to Imperial in the latent stage, with little in
the Samvat era, reads 2057. 1 centimetre = 0.4 inches the way of responsible tourism
1 metre = 3 feet 3 inches outside the national parks that
1 kilometre = 0.6 miles surround Jaipur. In these nature
Electricity 1 gram = 0.04 ounces reserves there are strict rules and
The electrical current is 1 kilogram = 2.2 pounds regulations to uphold the parks
220–240 volts, 50 Hz. Supply 1 litre = 1.8 pints natural beauty and habitats.
is erratic during summer when Tourists can help by disposing
power cuts can last for hours. of their waste carefully and insist
Triple round-pin sockets are the Responsible Tourism on eco-friendly vehicles and
norm but adaptors for other India’s response to the concept services from tour agencies. Visitors
varieties, and transformers of eco-tourism varies widely are discouraged from taking plastic
needed for some appliances, from state to state. Delhi has bags and disposable containers into
are available at large markets. seen steady growth in heritage areas. Tourists can also
Do bring along a power surge environmental awareness. do their bit by using bags made
cable to protect your laptop Several proposals have been of calico, or a similar reusable
against voltage fluctuations. introduced to reduce the level material, when shopping.
DIRECTORY
Visas and Passports Delhi. Map 5 A5. Tel (011) 2331 5322. Student and
Tel (011) 2436 0605. ∑ delhitourism.nic.in Senior Travellers
Foreigners’ Regional ∑ moef.nic.in
Registration Office Incredible India Vishwa Yuvak Kendra
Agra: 16 Idgah Colony. Embassies and Agra: The Mall. Agra: Sanjay Place, MG Rd.
Tel (0562) 236 7563. Consulates Tel (0562) 222 6378. Tel (0562) 285 4462.
Delhi: 8, East Block, RK Delhi: 88, Janpath. Delhi: 1, Circular Rd,
Puram Sector I. Australia Teen Murti Marg,
Map I C5.
Tel (011) 2671 1443. Tel (011) 4139 9900. Chanakyapuri. Map 4 D3.
Tel (011) 2332 0008.
Jaipur: Police Headquarters, ∑ india.embassy. gov.au Tel (011) 2301 3631.
Jaipur: State Hotel,
Behind Hawa Mahal. Ireland Jaipur: Bhagwan Das Rd.
Tel (0141) 261 8508. Khasa Kothi.
Tel (011) 4940 3200. Tel (0141) 274 0515.
Tel (0141) 237 2200.
Ministry of ∑ irelandinindia.com YHAI
∑ incredibleindia.org
Home Affairs Agra: Youth Hostel Agra,
New Zealand
North Block, Central
Tel (011) 4688 3170.
Rajasthan Tourism Hotel Chanakya,
Secretariat, Mansingh Rd, Delhi: Bikaner House, Shamshabad Rd.
∑ nzembassy. com/india
Delhi. Map 4 E2. Shahjahan Rd. Map 5 B2. Tel (0562) 223 0959.
Tel (011) 2309 2011. United Kingdom Tel (011) 2338 9525. Delhi: International
∑ mha.nic.in Tel (011) 2419 2100.
Youth Hostel, 5, Nyaya
Jaipur: TRC Govt Hostel,
∑ ukinindia.fco.gov.uk
MI Road. Tel (0141) 511 0598. Marg, Chanakyapuri.
Customs USA Tel (011) 2611 0250.
Information ∑ rajasthantourism.
Tel (011) 2419 8000. gov.in Jaipur: Youth Hostel
Archaeological ∑ newdelhi. Jaipur, D 81, Shiv Hira
Survey of India usembassy.gov Uttar Pradesh Tourism Path, C Scheme, Chomu
Janpath, Delhi. Map 5 A2. Agra: 64 Taj Rd. House Circle.
Tel (011) 2301 3574. Tourist Tel (0562) 222 6431. Tel (0141) 236 1971.
∑ asi.nic.in Information Delhi: Chandralok ∑ yhaindia.org
Ministry of Delhi Tourism Building, 36 Janpath. YMCA

Environment & Forests N 36, Middle Circle, Map I C5. Jai Singh Rd, Delhi.
Paryavaran Bhavan CGO Connaught Place. Tel (011) 2371 1296. Map 1B5.
Complex, Lodi Road, Map I C5. ∑ up-tourism.com Tel (011) 2374 6035.
276 SUR VIVAL GUIDE
Etiquette
Friendly and easy-going by nature, Indians consider hospitality
intrinsic to their culture and religion. Guests are treated with
immense courtesy, and people on the street will go out of their
way to help you. If you need any guidance on issues regarding
fares, rates or directions, feel free to ask around. Don’t be afraid
of haggling, bargaining is a normal practise in India. As there
are diverse religions, castes and social hierarchies in the region,
it is advisable to address everyone with respect without
making allusions to their religious, ethnic or regional group.
Public display of affection, like kissing, is frowned upon.
Customs and rules of etiquette still follow traditional Indian
norms, except in very Westernized sections of urban society. Devotees with their heads covered in a
place of worship
Greeting People In many Indian families, it is a with friends and sometimes

The most common form of polite gesture to touch the feet even strangers is part of the
Indian greeting is the namaskar of elders while greeting them. revered Indian culture.
or namaste (pronounced As a mark of respect, elders Your head is considered to be
“namastey”), which is used are never addressed by the spiritual centre of your body.
when meeting or parting. their first names. However, When an elder touches the head
The palms are pressed a courteous greeting of a younger person it is seen
together, raised in any form will be as a form of blessing. Feet are
towards the face, and acknowledged. considered to be the lowliest
the head is bent Personal questions part of the body and shoes are
slightly forward. about subjects that might treated as unclean. In most
Greetings and otherwise sound intrusive, traditional Indian homes, you
gestures may vary such as one’s salary or will be asked to remove them
with religion or Namaskar, the traditional relationship with one’s before you enter the house.
regional group. greeting in-laws, are usually not At gatherings where the seating
Muslims raise their considered offensive in is on the floor, try to sit with your
right hand towards the forehead Indian society. Instead, it is often feet crossed and not stretched
with the words adaab or salaam seen as a friendly gesture. out before you. When food is
alaikum or simply salaam. offered to you, it should be
In north India, “ji” usually accepted with your right hand.
follows the name as a term Body Language
of respect. On the first meeting, Indians tend to shake their
however, it is best to address heads a lot while talking and Places of Worship
someone formally with a Mr what might seem to be a Every major religion of the world
or Mrs or even Madam before negative shake is actually a sign of is practised in India. The three
their name. The use of first agreement, especially the head cities have several gurudwaras,
names is a sign of familiarity. wobble. They often talk loudly temples, mosques, churches and,
The Western handshake is and gesticulate with their hands, in Delhi, a synagogue, holding
commonly used, though Indian which should not be misunder- regular services. The etiquette
women still prefer to greet stood as a sign of aggression. differs in the places of worship
visitors with a namaskar. Having lengthy conversations of each religion but everywhere
a simple decorum is expected.
If in doubt about what you
should do, it is best to observe
those around you. It is courteous
to ask for permission before
photographing people or
places of worship, but do not
disturb people at their prayers
by taking pictures or talking
loudly. Clothes should be clean
and unrevealing: women should
ideally cover their heads, wear
dresses that cover the upper
arms and are at least mid-calf
A devotee bathing a linga in milk in a Shiva temple length, while men should avoid
shorts. Shoes are taken off at Hotel staff, porters and most taxi
the door and you should sit drivers expect a tip of between
with your feet turned away 10 and 20. A few rupees given
from the idol or the holy book. to the person who minds your
In Hindu temples, it is shoes outside a place of wor-
permissible to offer flowers and ship will be happily accepted.
incense for worship. Apart from
the central deity, the temples
often have subsidiary shrines Smoking and Alcohol
in other parts of the temple Though cigarette kiosks
precincts. Even those in ruins abound and pavement sellers
are considered holy. Some sell one cigarette at a time,
Hindu temples do not welcome smoking in Delhi is officially
non-Hindus although this is banned in public places.
rarely the case. However, if Some buildings have smoking
stopped at the door, do not Traditional village women, veiling their areas within their premises.
take offence. In mosques and faces with ghunghats Only certain restaurants
in gurudwaras, cover your head are licensed to serve alcohol,
with a scarf, not a hat. You taste. Readymade clothes and you are not allowed to
should avoid entering a for both men and women drink in parks, buses or trains.
mosque during prayers, and are available in most markets Drinking near a place of worship
men should stay away from at reasonable prices. is considered very offensive
the women’s enclosure. and can lead to arrest.
Bargaining
Bargaining is a part of life in Beggars
India but do not fret over it. Visitors can find beggars
Firmly state what you would difficult to handle as they
like to pay and walk away if the target foreigners and can be
shopkeeper does not agree. extremely persistent. Tourists
Larger shops and malls usually who give money to one soon
have fixed price tags and find themselves surrounded
advertise discounts if any. by a raucous throng demanding
baksheesh. Be careful of being
pickpocketed in the confusion.
Eating Indian-style Beggars are found in the largest
Shoes left at the entrance of a Though most Indian restaurants numbers around places of
religious temple provide cutlery, Indian meals worship as they are more likely
are often eaten with hands to to be given alms there. But it is
Suitable Dress facilitate the tearing of the best not to encourage beggars
The Indian style of clothing is chapati or bread and to scoop and to walk on till they leave
relatively modest and covers up rice and curry. It is considered you alone. If necessary, com-
the body well. In small towns, impolite to use your left hand plain to a nearby policeman
women still prefer the traditional to eat. Many restaurants also or raise an alarm if in trouble.
sari or the salwar-kameez and provide finger bowls at the If you do want to give charity
seldom wear Western outfits, end of the meal. directly, your hotel may have
though very young girls can a donation box or the staff
be seen in skirts or dresses. will be able to suggest a few
Delhi has a more cosmopolitan Taxes and Tipping charitable institutions.
attitude, and in the trendier parts There are no fixed norms
of the city, jeans, short skirts and for tipping, or baksheesh,
shorts are quite common. How- as it is called. Most larger
ever, Indian men tend to stare restaurants add a service
at women, so be prepared charge so often there is
for this, whatever you wear. no need to tip extra.
Agra and Jaipur are relatively In smaller eateries, the
conservative cities, therefore, waiter would be pleased
Western clothes might attract if you round up the bill
some unwanted attention. as there usually is not
Indians like to dress up for a service charge.
occasions. You can choose Most upmarket hotels
to experiment with traditional add a luxury tax of
Indian clothing or wear anything around 12.5 per cent The traditional Indian thali meal, eaten with the right
that is smart and suits your onto the price of a room. hand, seated on the floor
278 SUR VIVAL GUIDE
Personal Security and Health owned hospitals and clinics run

a 24-hour service for casualty
The three cities of Delhi, Agra and Jaipur are well equipped and emergency cases.
with efficient police forces and a number of good hospitals.
As long as you take a few simple precautions, there is little Lost and Stolen Property
need to worry. For example, do not get too friendly with If your passport or valuables
strangers, protect your valuables and stay and eat in places have been stolen or lost, you
that look clean and quality conscious. If you face a difficult must inform the nearest police
situation, ask for help from a police person or file a report station and file an FIR (first
at the police station. information report), but it is
advisable to contact your
embassy for advice about the
camera and avoid wearing correct procedure (see p275).
jewellery or carrying large There are railway police
amounts of cash. You can leave departments at major stations.
your valuables in the hotel safe If something is stolen on a train,
but insist on a receipt. It is advis- continue to your destination
able to keep photocopies of and report it there. Bus stations
your passport and credit cards in in large cities may have a police
a separate place to the originals post but it is more likely you
and also lock your luggage with will have to go to the nearest
a padlock, which can be bought normal police station.
at railway stations, during
train journeys.
While shopping, make sure Hospitals and
that shopkeepers create a bill Pharmacies
Policemen in uniform and process your payment in Before you leave, check with
front of you. Some shopkeepers MASTA (Medical Advisory Service
Police lead tourists to believe that for Travellers Abroad) in the UK for
There are several different police goods bought in India can be a health update for travellers to
forces in India and each fulfils a sold back home with a good India. There are a number of well-
particular role. The two police profit margin. Unless you can equipped private hospitals and
forces tourists will most likely judge a product’s authenticity, medical specialists in Delhi
encounter are national police, do not invest your money on that offer excellent service.
who wear khaki uniforms, and such dubious purchases. The renowned All India Institute
traffic police, who are normally of Medical Sciences (AIIMS), is a
dressed in blue. Not all mem- highly advanced hospital and a
bers of the police can speak In an Emergency centre for research. Most of the
English but most know at least The national emergency embassies have a list of approved
a few words. The majority of number for police is 100, the hospitals and clinics and the
officers are friendly and happy fire brigade is 101, and for a names of the best medical
to help with directions. hospital ambulance it is 102. specialists and dental practitioners
However, be aware that there Your embassy can also advise in town. The local Indian Red
is some corruption within the you in case of an emergency. Cross Society is the safest
force, such as officers asking If in need of immediate medical option for blood transfusions.
for money to file crime reports. attention, your hotel’s doctor- Most big markets in Delhi,
If you need to report a crime on-call can refer you to a Agra and Jaipur have well-
go to the nearest police station private clinic. Otherwise, all stocked pharmacies. The
or your embassy (see p275). public and most privately pharmacists are often able
What to be Aware of
Travelling in the region is
relatively safe for tourists.
Since Delhi, Agra and Jaipur
are major tourist centres, there
are bound to be touts, beggars
and pickpockets who target
travellers. Take simple safety
measures, such as wearing a
money belt under your shirt
to keep money and important
documents in. Protect your A hospital ambulance
to advise you on simple DIRECTORY

remedies. They also stock infant
food, toiletries and sanitary Emergency Numbers
items. If you are taking any Ambulance
special medication, carry the Tel 102.
prescriptions with you or the
packaging with the generic Fire Brigade
name; this will help if the brand Tel 101.
is unfamiliar to the pharmacist. Police
Most pharmacies are open Tel 100.
between 9am and 7:30pm.
Public hospitals such as Hospitals and
AIIMS usually have round-the- Pharmacies
clock pharmacies which are Agra
also open to non-patients. Parikh Nursing Home, MG Rd.
Ayurvedic medicine and holistic Pharmacy in a local market, stocking Tel (0562) 285 4781.
remedies are highly respected medication and toiletries
and widely available. Delhi
All India Institute of Medical
embassy (see p275). Always keep
Sciences, Aurobindo Marg.
a photocopy of your passport
Travel and Tel (011) 2658 8700.
handy. Do not hand your travel
Health Insurance papers over to anyone until your Escorts Heart Institute,
It is important to take out embassy has been informed. Maulana Muhammad Ali Rd.
a comprehensive insurance Some insurance policies also Tel (011) 2682 5000.
policy in advance of travelling cover legal costs for certain Indraprastha Apollo,
to India. Make sure it covers any emergencies such as accidents. Mathura Rd, NH2.
eventuality, including potential Tel (011) 2692 5858.
medical and legal expenses, lost Max Medcentre, N-110,
luggage, theft, accidents and Narcotics Panchsheel Park.
travel delays or cancellations. The image of India as a country Tel (011) 2649 9866.
Adventure sports are not covered that is tolerant of drug use is Jaipur
by standard travel policies so if misleading, even though you Sawai Man Singh Medical
you are planning to undertake often see sadhus puffing merrily College, Sawai Ram Singh Rd.
any extreme sports while in on their chillums. Possession Tel (0141) 256 0291.
India you will need to pay an of all drugs, including hashish
Indian Red Cross Society
additional premium to ensure and heroin, is banned by law. 1, Red Cross Rd, opposite
you are protected. Insurance Penalties for possession, use and Parliament House, Delhi.
policies should come with a trafficking of illegal substances Map 4 F1.
24-hour emergency number. are strictly enforced. Drug Tel (011) 2371 6441.
convictions lead to a minimum ∑ indianredcross.org
sentence of ten years without
Immunization MASTA
parole or remission. Make sure
Information London: Tel (020) 7291 9333.
that you don’t carry anything
∑ masta-travel-health.com
There are no official requirements for strangers or check in their
for immunization unless you luggage at airports.
travel from Papua New Guinea
or designated countries in Africa
and South America, in which
case to enter India you will need
a valid vaccination certificate for
yellow fever. Vaccination against
tetanus, typhoid and Hepatitis A
and B is recommended. Consult
your doctor about taking a
course of anti-malarial tablets,
although north India is regarded
as a low-risk area.
Legal Assistance
Legal problems are very rare
for travellers, but if you do
find yourself in a legal tangle,
immediately contact your Pavement vendors peddling healing salves and ointments
280 SUR VIVAL GUIDE
Heat and Smog

Summer in north India is dry
and extremely hot, and the
monsoon months that follow
are oppressively humid. It takes
time to get acclimatized to this
weather, so take things at a
relaxed pace in the first few days.
The best way to beat the heat is
to drink plenty of fluids. Include
a small amount of salt to your
food to prevent dehydration.
Shower often and avoid going
out between noon and 4pm,
which is the hottest part of the Sugarcane and other juices sold on the street
day. While walking, try to rest in
the shade at regular intervals to Some effective herbal Most visitors prefer sealed
avoid continuous exposure remedies for heat stroke and bottles of mineral water,
to high temperatures, which upset stomachs are readily although an increasing number
can cause heat stroke. available in pharmacies, but of restaurants have effective
It is best to wear sunglasses you should buy only brands filtered water dispensers. Most
and a wide-brimmed hat during recommended by a reliable commonly known international
the day as well as applying sun- practitioner or pharmacist brands of carbonated drinks are
screen every few hours to protect medicine (see pp278–9). also widely available. Coconut
your skin. It is also advisable to water is a refreshing alternative
wear light shoes and loose-fitting to aerated drinks. Use your own
cottons that cover your arms Minor Stomach Upsets judgement when eating from
and legs, in order to avoid Diarrhoea is a common stomach streetside food carts and
sunburns. Covered shoes, disorder among travellers, dhabas. Opt for an eatery that
socks and polyester usually caused by a seems popular with the local
clothing trap perspi- change of diet, people as it is more likely to
ration and can water and climate. serve fresh and good quality
cause prickly heat Since Indian food food. Avoid raw salads, cut
and fungal is mostly hot and fruit and fresh juices at way-
infections. Prickly spicy, it can cause side eateries, at least until
heat powder is various digestive your stomach is accustomed
available at most disorders. If stricken, to Indian food.
pharmacies (see p278). it is best to eat boiled
During winters, the city food without spices and
experiences smog. drink boiled water that has Cuts and Bites
Asthmatic travellers are been cooled, until the Insect bites are a common
advised to carry their A hand fan attack subsides. Most problem during the rainy
medication at all times importantly, make sure season. Many monuments also
to avoid problems. that you drink plenty of liquids to have huge beehives, so you
replace your body fluids. should carry a good antiseptic
A good pharmacist can ointment and an antihistamine
First-aid Kit suggest an appropriate in case of wasp and bee stings.
While going on excursions diarrhoea medication. In the Snake bites are rare, but if
or day trips, it is best to carry case of a severe attack with bitten, tie a tight crepe bandage
a basic first-aid kit. Include aspirin symptoms such as exhaustion, above the knee or elbow joint
or painkillers for fevers, minor nausea and cramps, it is best of the affected limb and over
aches and pains, an antiseptic to consult a doctor. It is advis- the bite itself, keep it immobile
for cuts and bites, antifungal able to immediately take oral and seek immediate medical
ointment, antihistamines for rehydrating salts (ORS), which help. Clean all cuts with an anti-
allergies and anti-diarrhoea are commercially available septic solution and cover with
tablets. Your first-aid kit should under the popular Indian a plaster or a light bandage.
also contain water purification brand names of Electral or
tablets, plasters, scissors, insect Electrobion. An effective
repellent, crepe bandages, lip homemade remedy of half Insect-borne Diseases
balm, tweezers, a thermometer, a teaspoon of salt and three The summer and monsoon
some disposable syringes and teaspoons of sugar mixed in months are the seasons for
any other personal medication. boiled water which has been malaria and the more serious
Most items are easily available cooled, also helps to maintain cerebral malaria, though they
at pharmacies in the cities. the balance of body fluids. can occur at any time of the year.
The symptoms of both include similar symptoms but takes a the spinal cord and brain, is
violent shivering followed by longer time to manifest itself in accompanied by high fever
high fever and sweating, the human body. If not treated and occasional seizures. It is
sometimes accompanied by with a course of prescription transmitted by a bacterial
headaches. A parasite carried drugs, this can later become a or viral infection sometimes
in the saliva of the female recurring, chronic ailment. The carried by rodents. Penicillin
Anopheles mosquito same is true of drugs are effective in combating
triggers the illness, giardiasis, a type of it, but patients must be rushed
and the incubation chronic diarrhoea, to a hospital immediately.
period can vary from caused by drinking If you are bitten by an animal,
a few days to several contaminated water. clean the wound with an
weeks. Another Some forms of antiseptic solution and seek
serious mosquito- hepatitis, a serious medical help at once in order
borne disease is liver ailment, such to avoid getting rabies or any
dengue fever, as hepatitis A and other infection. The necessary
carried by B, can be prevented anti-rabies treatment involves
the Aëdes egypti with a vaccine. a course of injections. There is
mosquito. The Mosquito repellent coil Symptoms of the also a vaccination to prevent
symptoms are similar and cream illness include it. Vaccination against tetanus
to malaria and include extreme fatigue, body is essential before travelling.
rashes and severe pain in the aches, jaundice, fever and severe This potentially fatal infection
joints and muscles. The dengue chills. The only treatment is transmitted through open
mosquito is more active during is to drink plenty of boiled water, wounds that have been in
daytime, while the insects rest and a strictly controlled diet. contact with a bacteria found
causing malaria are active If you are visiting a site in soil and manure, and its
between sunset and dawn. ravaged by floods you must symptoms include lock-jaw, stiff
If you are sleeping in a room get yourself fully vaccinated muscles and fatal convulsions.
without air-conditioning, keep against cholera at least one As a rule, if you badly cut yourself,
the screened windows closed week before travelling there. you should clean the wound
at all times. You can also ask the Cholera is a serious disease and go to a good doctor
hotel for a mosquito repellent that can be fatal unless the without delay.
gadget, as well as a net over patient is rushed to a hospital Tuberculosis, commonly
your bed. Avoid wearing dark for rehydration and medication. transmitted through coughing
clothing and strong perfumes Typhoid, which has a vaccine, and close household contact
as these tend to attract is another gastro-intestinal with an infected person, is
mosquitoes. If going outdoors disease transmitted through not a great risk for travellers.
in the evenings, you should contaminated water or food. Before an injection, buy your
wear clothes that completely Early symptoms may seem like own disposable syringe, or insist
cover your arms and legs, and flu, but develop into high fever, that a new syringe and needle
rub mosquito repellent cream leading to acute dehydration is unwrapped in front of you.
on exposed body parts. and weight loss. A doctor should Avoid shaves at dubious barber
If you experience symptoms of be immediately consulted for shops, and insist on a new razor
malaria or dengue fever, it is best the right antibiotics. blade. Any procedure using
to seek medical help immediately. Since these are the most needles, such as tattooing and
For the latest information on common ailments faced by ear-piercing, is best avoided.
malaria medication and whether travellers to India, it is best to
to take a course of preventive remain hygiene conscious and
antimalarial drugs, call a travel eat only clean food and drink
clinic or check the MASTA website bottled mineral water through-
(see p279) for information. out the course of your stay.
Food- and Water- People- and Animal-

borne Diseases borne Diseases
Visitors to India must guard Awareness of sexually trans-
themselves against several mitted diseases such as HIV,
illnesses that can be contracted which causes AIDS, is still low,
via water, including two types of therefore, screening at blood
severe intestinal infections, known banks is unreliable. If you
as dysentery. The first, bacillary require a blood transfusion
dysentery, accompanied by contact the trustworthy Indian
severe stomach pains, vomiting Red Cross Society (see p279).
and fever, rarely lasts longer than Meningitis, a severe swelling Shopkeepers display an array of delicious
a week. Amoebic dysentery has of the membranes surrounding street foods
282 SUR VIVAL GUIDE
Banking and Currency bank rather than through an

unlicensed operator. The State
Agra, Delhi and Jaipur provide accessible banking facilities Bank of India in Agra and the
and money exchange services with English speaking staff Allahabad Bank are well
at all counters. Delhi has a good selection of international regarded for their low com-
mission fees. Travel agents, such
banks that offer a range of services. Exchange facilities are as Thomas Cook India (see 291),
available at major banks and hotels, travel agencies, Indira can also exchange money at the
Gandhi International Airport and registered money changers. official rates, but have higher
Unauthorized dealers and touts might offer enticing rates service charges. Newspapers
but they are illegal operators. Some shops will also give publish current exchange rates
for major international
better value for money against purchases in major foreign
currencies. The “black market”
currencies. Traveller’s cheques are still a safe way to carry in India offers better rates than
money, although people increasingly use debit and credit the official ones but it is safer
cards. Always keep small change for minor transactions. to go to authorized dealers.
Banks and Opening hours are 8am–2pm ATMs

Bureaux de Change from Monday to Friday, and 8am– All foreign and some local banks
Banks across India offer such noon on Saturday, although have 24-hour ATMs (automatic
services as transferring money hours can vary from bank to teller machines), that accept
and exchanging currency as bank. Major banks branches MasterCard, VISA, American
well as other banking trans- remain open till 6pm. Banks Express and Diners Club cards.
actions. Most national banks, are generally closed on public ATMs are easily found in cities
including ICICI and State Bank holidays (see p43) or occasionally and operate 24-hours. All
of India, have several branches in response to public protests instructions are displayed in English
in Delhi, Agra and Jaipur. or strikes. The State Bank of and cash is dispensed in rupees.
India’s counter at Indira Gandhi
International Airport, the
Central Bank of India at Debit and Credit Cards
Ashok Hotel (see p235) and other International debit and credit
select branches of Standard cards such as VISA, American
Chartered in Delhi offer 24-hour Express, MasterCard and
banking services. The Ashok Diners Club are accepted in
Hotel also offers 24-hour many places including larger
money exchange facilities. shops, hotels and restaurants.
Most hotels can exchange Look out for the credit card
currency for resident guests, sticker on shop windows. Cards
however banks offer the best can also be used to book rail
rates. Visitors staying at govern- and air tickets. Some cards can
ment-owned hotels require a be used to get a cash advance
American Express, offering money receipt to show that they have in rupees at many international
changing and banking facilities exchanged their money in a banks. Debit and credit card
DIRECTORY
Banks Tel (011) 6757 4314. Map 1 B5. MasterCard
Jaipur: Raj Bank Building, Tel (011) 2340 7935. Tel 000 800 100 1087.
Allahabad Bank Sir Mirza Ismail Rd. Jaipur: Tilak Marg. Visa
Agra: Hotel Clarks Shiraz, 54,
Tel (0141) 325 6145. Tel (0141) 510 1547. Tel 000 800 100 1219.
Taj Rd. Tel (0562) 222 6531.
Standard Chartered Wiring Money
Central Bank of India Debit and
Delhi: 23, Barakhamba Rd,
Agra: 37/2/4, Sanjay Place. Credit Cards
Narian Manzil, Connaught Citibank
Delhi: 3, Bahadurshah
Place. Delhi: Shop No. 124,
Jafar Road, New Delhi. American Express
Map 2 D5. Jeevan Bharti Building,
Tel 1800 200 1911. Delhi: Hamilton House, Connaught Place. Map 1
Tel (011) 3940 1500.
ICICI Connaught Place. C5. Tel (011) 2336 6205.
Agra: 5, Saket Colony, Shah State Bank of India Map 1 C4. HSBC
Ganj. Tel (0512) 233 1042. Agra: Chhipitola Complex, Delhi: Birla Towers, Ashoka
Tel 1800 22 2639.
Delhi: 9A, Phelps Building, MG Rd. Estate, Barakhamba Rd.
Inner Circle, Connaught Tel (0562) 226 2663. Diners Club Map 2 D5.
Place. Map 1 C4. Delhi: 11, Sansad Marg. Tel (44) 1244 47 0910. Tel (011) 2371 9403.
related fraud is on the increase, Traveller’s Cheques Currency

so keep your cards safe and Traveller’s cheques in US dollars The unit of currency is
insist that receipt vouchers at or pounds sterling are still popular the rupee (₹), divided into
shops are made out in front of in India. They are easy to cash, 100 paisas, although the
you. If your debit or credit card and can be exchanged at all latter no longer exists in
gets stolen or lost, contact your banks and bureau de change practice. Among the coins,
bank to cancel the card. counters. American Express in the most commonly used
Delhi provides traveller’s cheques are the one, two, five and
in US dollars or pounds sterling. ten rupee coins. Currency
Wiring Money Some banks demand to see the notes range from ₹10
Indian banks with branches original purchase receipt. Banks to ₹1,000.
abroad and foreign banks that levy the lowest surcharge and Be careful with the ₹100
have offices in India, such as therefore give the best value, and ₹500 notes as these
HSBC, Citibank, and American but they always charge a small are quite similar in colour.
Express, can wire money from fee per cheque, so using large Be wary of accepting torn
their various offices. Foreign denomination cheques at a or taped notes, as banks,
banks usually have branches time is economical. Traveller’s restaurants and shops often
in Delhi, though not always in cheques give slightly better refuse to accept or change
Jaipur or Agra. exchange rates than cash. them for you.
Bank Notes
All currency is minted by the Reserve Bank of India.
The notes have either Mahatma Gandhi or the
Ashoka lions on one side.
₹10 note
₹20 note
₹50 note
₹100 note
₹500 note
Coins
The following silver coins are ₹1,000 note
in circulation, with variations
of the ₹1 coin. All bear the
national insignia.
₹1 ₹2 ₹5 ₹10
284 SUR VIVAL GUIDE
Communications and Media

The post and telecommunications systems in India are reliable
and relatively advanced. In addition to the government’s postal
network, several well-known international courier agencies
have offices here. All the main hotels have business centres,
and most markets have stalls where mobile SIM cards can
be purchased and the Internet accessed. A wide range of
newspapers and magazines are sold in Agra, Delhi and
Jaipur. Most international newspapers and magazines General Post Office or Gole Dak Khana,
New Delhi
are also available in bookshops across Delhi.
are ubiquitous in Delhi and
can also be found in Agra
International and Local Mobile Phones and Jaipur. Libraries, such
Telephone Calls It is possible to use your home as the American Library in
All hotels offer direct internationalSIM card while visiting India, Delhi and those provided
calls (or subscriber dialling – ISD),but the roaming charges are by the British Council, have
but at inflated prices. With the often exorbitant. Major local computer facilities which
popularity of mobile phones, ISD mobile networks include can be used for emailing
and subscriber trunk dialling (STD) Airtel, Tata Dokomo and or browsing the Internet.
telephone booths, once found Reliance, and, the international
in most markets, are declining. firm Vodafone is also available
Those booths remaining can in north India. To acquire a Postal Services
be used to make local and local SIM card, you must fill The national postal service,
international calls at cheaper rates in a form (at the store India Post, is efficient
than offered at hotels. To find a you are purchasing it and reliable. Some of
telephone booth in a market, from), show your passport the services offered
look for the ISD/STD sign above as identification and include general and
the shop door. have the SIM officially registered post, poste
To make an international registered with a local restante and Speed Post.
phone call you will need to dial address before you can There is also a Foreign
the international access code (00), use it in India. There may Post Office in Delhi that
followed by the country code, the be some roaming charges solely deals with inter-
area code and the local number. when moving between national post. Fax ser-
Domestic long-distance calls are states within the vices, though rare, are
also made through STD. This country, but these are still available at the
service covers the majority of the relatively negligible. main post offices and
country, including small villages. A regular post box at ISD/STD booths in all
For mobile numbers, you will need the three cities. Offices
to dial the domestic access code Internet are open between 10am and
(0091), followed by the number. The Internet is widely available 5pm Monday to Friday and on
STD rates depend on the distance in Indian cities. Most hotels Saturdays until noon.
and time of the call. Calls made offer web access to guests, Run by the government,
between 11pm and 6am are while an increasing number Speed Post is only available at
cheaper. Local calls can also be of establishments have Wi-Fi. a select number of post offices
made from public STD telephones, Privately operated cyber and provides courier facilities.
costing ₹1 for every 3 minutes. cafés with modern facilities If you wish to send a letter
or parcel through a private
international courier agency,
Useful Dialling Codes and Numbers there are many to choose from.
• To make an intercity call, Australia 61; Ireland 353; UPS, FedEx, DHL, Blazeflash
dial the STD code of that New Zealand 64; South Couriers, Desk To Desk Courier
city and the local number. Africa 27; Japan 81 and Overnite Express have a
For Delhi, dial 011; Agra, dial • Dial 1580 to book a trunk call wide global and local network.
0562; and for Jaipur, dial 0141. (STD) in the country, and 1586 Many shops may offer to send
• To make an international for international calls. purchases by courier but,
call (ISD), dial 00, the country • For directory assistance dial except for well-known shops
code, area code and the 197 in Delhi, Agra and Jaipur. and the government emporia,
local number. • For a morning alarm, dial 116
you will be doing so at your
• Country codes are: UK 44; in Delhi, Jaipur and Agra.
France 33; USA & Canada 1;
own risk. If in doubt, use a
private courier agency and
send the parcel yourself.
Newspapers English-language publications

and Magazines found in India, visit the World-
India has a wide Newspapers website.
variety of national
English language
newspapers. Television and Radio
Leading papers The state-run Doordarshan
like The Times television network has
of India and programmes in English and
Hindustan Times major Indian regional languages.
make for lively Since the arrival of satellite TV,
reading with fierce the choice of programmes to
political debates, watch has become much wider.
humorous cartoons Cable TV is available almost
A streetside stall, selling newspapers and magazines and good sports everywhere, including in
coverage. Weekly hotel rooms, and features
Addresses magazines, such as India international channels such
The older sections of Indian Today and Outlook, provide as the BBC World Service, CNN,
cities are often a maze of lanes excellent coverage of local Discovery, National Geographic
and alleyways. Some road signs and international news. and the Hong Kong-based Star
can be confusing and hard to Monthly magazines, such TV network. Sports can be found
decipher, or sometimes there as Delhi Diary and First on channels Star Sports and
may not even be a street sign. City, list films, restaurants, ESPN, while Channel V and MTV
If you are lost, a passerby should exhibitions and other events provide music entertainment.
always be willing to help. Taxi in Delhi. All newspapers and India also has a wide radio
and auto-rickshaw drivers are magazines mentioned above network, with programmes both
also happy to give directions. are also available in an in English and local regional
Newer residential areas are online format. languages. Radio still provides
divided into blocks. The block The cities of Agra and the best way to get news and
number usually appears with Jaipur have their own local information, especially in rural
the house number, so B4/88 newspapers and magazines areas. FM frequency channels
Safdarjung Enclave would be: that give details of ongoing are available in all cities and
house number 88 in the B4 block cultural programmes in both the popularity of digital radio
of Safdarjung Enclave colony. English and Hindi. For more channels is increasing.
DIRECTORY
Mobile Phones Tel (011) 4297 4297, 98996 Tel (011) 2336 4111. Newspapers
18482 (centralized number). Jaipur: Mirza Ismail Rd. and Magazines
Airtel ∑ blazeflash.com
∑ airtel.in
Tel (0141) 237 4000. Delhi Diary
DHL Courier Service India Post ∑ delhidiary.in
Reliance Delhi: 47–48, G5, Pragati
∑ rcom.co.in Agra: Tel (0562) 252 1863. First City
House, Nehru Place.
Delhi: Tel (011) 2332 4214. ∑ firstcitydelhi.com
Tata Dokomo Tel (011) 2643 0490.
∑ tatadocomo.com ∑ dhl.co.in Jaipur: Tel (0141) 401 1061. Hindustan Times
∑ overnitenet.com ∑ hindustantimes.com
Vodafone Desk to Desk Courier
∑ indiapost.gov.in
∑ vodafone.in Tel (011) 3300 4444. India Today
∑ dtdc.com Speed Post ∑ indiatoday.intoday.in
Internet ∑ speedpost.org.in
FedEx Courier Service Outlook
British Council Agra: Tel (0562) 2600 0015. ∑ outlookindia.com
UPS Courier Service
Tel (172) 274 5195. Delhi: Tel (011) 2386 0502.
Agra: 19 & 20, Bhavana The Times of India
∑ britishcouncil.org/ Jaipur: Tel (0141) 606 4639.
∑ timesofindia.
india.htm ∑ fedex.com.in Tower, Sector 16,
indiatimes.com
Mathura Rd.
American Library Foreign Post Office World-Newspapers
Tel (0562) 645 6148.
Tel (011) 2347 2000. Kotla Marg, Near ITO ∑ world-newspapers.
∑ newdelhi.usembassy. Delhi. Map 2 F4. Delhi: D 12/1, Okhla
com/india
gov/americanlibrary.html Tel (011) 2323 1281. Industrial Area, Phase II.
Tel (011) 7172 6200.
Postal Services General Post Office
Jaipur: E 51, Chittaranjan
Agra: The Mall.
Blazeflash Couriers Tel (0562) 246 3886. Marg, C Scheme.
Delhi: C 143, Phase I, Delhi: Ashok Rd. Tel (0141) 511 3800.
Naraina Industrial Area. Map 4 F1. ∑ UPS.com
286 SUR VIVAL GUIDE
TRAVEL INFORMATION
Most international visitors to India arrive run Air India has the widest network of air
by air. Road and rail links are also used for routes. Private airlines including Indigo and
travel between India and her neighbouring Jet Airways cover many cities in this region.
countries such as Pakistan, Nepal and Indian Railways is one of the world’s most
Bangladesh. Travelling within the country, widespread networks and travelling first
and especially between the three cities class is a good way to see and explore the
of the Golden Triangle, is possible by air, entire country. The long-distance luxury
train and road. The triangular distance coach is another viable option. Whatever
between Agra, Jaipur and Delhi is less than your mode of transport, you should be
250 km (155 miles) and should only take a prepared for delays and unexpected
couple of hours by road or rail. The state- detours that may test your patience.
Airport or one of India’s other

domestic airports.
India’s national airline, Air
India, along with many other
major international airlines, such
as Air France, British Airways
and Japan Airlines, have regular
flights to Delhi. Domestic
companies such as Jet Airways,
IndiGo, JetLite, GoAir and
SpiceJet operate flights out of
IG International Airport to Agra,
Jaipur and other Indian cities.
All regional Indian airports
Aircraft lined up at Indira Gandhi International Airport have frequent scheduled
departures to Delhi but few
Green Travel use CNG-propelled engines. flights to Agra and Jaipur. Air
Travel around Delhi, Agra and Delhi Tourism also runs a fleet India offers the largest choice
Jaipur is easy, convenient of CNG buses that offer city tours. of routes and the most frequent
and cheaply priced. The public Like in Delhi, many vehicles domestic services, but Jet
transport system is extensive, are fuelled by CNG in Agra Airways and SpiceJet also
flexible and environmentally and Jaipur. Another green connect a wide network of
friendly. Visitors will find that travel option is to hire a bicycle cities within the country. IndiGo,
they can reach almost any des- at a local cycle shop. Jaipur is JetLite and GoAir offer low-cost,
tination between and around especially know for its many no frills flights between the cities
the three cities by train or bike hire stalls. However, the that make the Golden Triangle.
long-distance bus. Delhi’s weather can get hot and dusty,
outstanding metro system and only those who are fit and
also provides a fast, clean acclimatized to the climate Indira Gandhi
and eco-friendly way of getting should attempt cycling. International Airport
around the city. Travellers who Delhi’s Indira Gandhi
need to use hired cars can still International Airport has
minimize their individual carbon Arriving by Air two terminals in operation:
footprint by opting to share Most visitors travelling by air to Terminal 1 (T1) for domestic
taxis with other passengers. India will arrive at Delhi’s Indira flights, and Terminal 3 (T3) for
Within Delhi, the roads are Gandhi International Airport (IG), international and some domestic
well-maintained but can get which serves both international flights. The latter offers more
congested, especially during and domestic flights. facilities, with 24-hour currency
peak hour traffic. The rising Jaipur International Airport exchange counters, left luggage
price of petrol and the preva- receives flights from local and services and an air-conditioned
lent pollution has led to the Middle-Eastern operators, and visitors’ lounge. Travel agencies
introduction of vehicles run Agra Airport (also known as and hotel counters located in
on Compressed Natural Gas Kheria Airport) runs a domestic the arrivals area can help you
(CNG), which is more environ- service only. When travelling organize your tour itinerary.
ment-friendly. All three-wheelers from abroad, to reach either city T1 (domestic) is at Palam, 7 km
(auto-rickshaws) and yellow-top by air you must take a connecting (4 miles) from T3. If transferring
taxis painted with a green line flight from IG International to a domestic flight from an
T R AV E L I N F O R M AT I O N 287
duty, including money to Pakistan, Nepal, Sri Lanka,

in excess of US $10,000. Bhutan, Burma (Myanmar),
For more details Afghanistan or the Maldives,
regarding customs, it is only ₹150.
see page 272.
DIRECTORY
Transport Green Travel
into Delhi
Delhi Tourism
IG International ∑ delhitourim.nic.in
Airport’s Terminal 1
is 12 km (7 miles), Arriving by Air
and Terminal 3 is
19 km (12 miles) Agra Airport
southwest of the Tel (056) 2240 0844.
city centre. The best Air India
Passengers in the airport lounge way to reach Delhi Tel (011) 2462 2220.
is via the Airport ∑ airindia.com
international one (or vice versa), Express metro line, which
Air France
allow at least 15 minutes driving travels direct and takes only
Tel 1800 180 0033.
time to get between the two 25 minutes from T3. From T1
∑ airfrance.com
terminals. Internal airport take a shared pre-paid taxi,
coaches run hourly between which can be booked at a British Airways
the two terminals during peak counter outside the arrivals Tel (1800) 102 3592.
hours and offer free transfers. hall, to Aerocity station where ∑ britishairways.com
you can board the Airport Express. GoAir
Taxi rates are fixed – ₹500 ∑ goair.in
Tickets and Fares from T3 and ₹350 from T1.
IndiGo
Tickets can be booked directly Some hotels offer a free airport
∑ book.goindigo.in
through the airlines’ websites pick-up service. Whatever you
or through reliable travel use, the journey by road may IG International Airport
agents (see p291). Air India take up to an hour. Tel (011) 2565 2420.
and Jet Airways offer discount ∑ newdelhiairport.in/
passes for multiple trips, Jaipur International Airport
although you should opt Departure Tax
Tel (141) 255 0623.
for this deal only if you are If you stay in India for more
planning to travel extensively than 120 days from the date Japan Airlines
∑ jal.co.jp/en
by air during your stay. of issue of the visa, you need
a tax clearance certificate to Jet Airways
leave the country. Before ∑ jetairways.com
On Arrival travelling, you should apply JetLite
Immigration forms are handed in advance for the certificate ∑ jetliteindia.co.in
out on the plane in advance of to the Foreign Section in the
landing. Fill this out and hand Income Tax Department. This SpiceJet
it over at passport control. proves that you have financed ∑ spicejet.com
When going through customs, your trip with your own foreign
the green channel is for exchange and not by working
Departure Tax
passengers who do not have in India. Keep all travel finance Income Tax Department
goods to declare, as listed in documentation after you leave. Delhi: Mayur Bhawan,
the Immigration Certificate. A Departure Tax of ₹500 is Connaught Circus. Map 1 C4.
The Red Channel is for those levied, unless already included Tel (011) 2341 3317.
with goods that attract customs with your ticket. But if travelling
Distance to Average Journey

Airport § Information
City Centre Time
Delhi (Domestic)
(011) 2567 5121/26 12 km (7 miles) Road: 30 minutes
TI
Delhi (International)
(0124) 337 6000 19 km (12 miles) Road: 50 minutes
T3
Agra (only charters) (0562) 240 0844 16 km (10 miles) Road: 45 minutes
Jaipur (Sanganer) (0141) 255 0623 13 km (7 miles) Road: 30 minutes

288 SUR VIVAL GUIDE
Travelling by Train as they stop at all stations, some-

times for long periods, and are
Travelling through India by train is a truly unforgettable always very crowded. The major
experience. It can be extremely relaxing and plenty of fun, or cities are connected by air-
uncomfortable and hectic. But if you can spare the time, it is conditioned “superfast” trains,
including the Rajdhani and
the best way of getting to know the Indian people and seeing Shatabdi Express trains, which
the countryside. India has a well organized but busy railway make minimal stops. Fares for
network, so plan your train journey carefully and book your these services include meals and
tickets well in advance – online is easiest. There are comput- the Rajdhani also provides its over-
erized ticket counters at stations and, for a commission, night passengers with bedding.
Most trains have a first and
most travel agents can arrange tickets for you. The journey
second class, chair-cars and two-
between Agra, Delhi and Jaipur takes only a few hours. and three-tiered sleeper coaches.
Fares are higher for air-conditioned
carriages. Sleeper coaches are a
comfortable option on longer jour-
neys and save useful daytime hours
and hotel fares.
Railway timetables are listed in
Trains at a Glance, a handy guide
available at major railway stations
or online at the Indian Railways
website. Be aware that train
times can change.
Discounts
If planning to travel extensively
around India, the Indrail Pass
A modern diesel engine train is a good option, as it will save
you hours of queueing time
The Railway Network Tickets and Fares and, if you book in advance,
The Indian railway network Be sure to buy your tickets reservation charges. It offers
is divided by region, and the in advance with reserved seat unlimited travel across the
cities of Agra, Delhi and Jaipur numbers noted on them. Your country, in either class, for 7
are served by the Northern Railway. hotel travel counter or travel to 90 days. It can be bought
Delhi major railway stations are: agent can arrange this for you. in India or abroad, but must
Old Delhi, New Delhi, Sarai Rohilla Avoid buying tickets from touts, be paid for in foreign currency.
and Hazrat Nizamuddin. as this is illegal and unreliable. Occasionally the pass may be
Taj Express and the Bhopal An International Tourist more expensive than buying
Shatabdi Express provide the Bureau, on the first floor of individual trip tickets, so work
fastest morning trains for Agra. New Delhi Station, is open out what trips you want to
With a journey time of Monday to Saturday, make before purchasing.
less than 3 hours, these from 7:30am to 5pm, here Also, ensure that you have a
services make a day you can purchase tickets, confirmed seat reservation for
trip possible. Other payable in US dollars or each journey by checking online
speedy options to pounds sterling, backed or contacting the train station.
reach Agra include by exchange certificates
the Kerala Express, a and get priority
morning service taking reservations. Tickets
1 hour and 15 minutes, Train timetable are refundable, subject
and Tamil Nadu Express, to cancellation charges.
departing at night with Booking centres are also
a journey time of 1 hour located at other railway stations.
and 40 minutes.
The Ajmer Shatabdi Express
and Jammu All Express are the Trains and Timetables
fastest routes between Delhi There are three kinds of trains:
and Jaipur, both taking less passenger, mail and express.
than 5 hours. Another train to It is best to take the express
Jaipur from Delhi is the Ashram trains as they have fewer stops
Express, which takes 5 hours and offer better facilities and
and 30 minutes. services. Avoid passenger trains A crowded railway platform
DIRECTORY
The Railway Network
Agra Station
Civil Lines. Tel 36 4612.
Hazrat Nizamuddin Station
Harsha Road, Nizamuddin East.
Map 6 E5. Tel (011) 2435 8753.
Jaipur Station
Railway Rd, Shanti Nagar,
Hasanpura. Tel 131.
Old Delhi Station
Shyama Prasad Mukherji Marg.
Map 2 D1. Tel 131.
Railway ticket booking centre at New Delhi Railway Station
New Delhi Station
Services elsewhere. Go to the Upper & Rail Yatri Niwas
Connaught Place. Map 1 C4.
When at a station look for the Class Waiting Rooms. Left
Tel 6663 3333.
licensed porters or coolies to luggage facilities, called cloak-
assist you with your luggage. rooms, are offered at most Northern Railway
They wear red shirts and stations. The quality ∑ nr.indianrailways.gov.in
armbands with a of food and drinks at Sarai Rohilla Station
metal tag bearing stations is good, both Near Rohtak Rd, Sarai
a licence number at the canteens Rohilla, New Delhi.
on it. Note the and from platform
porter’s number vendors. Make sure that Tickets and Fares
incase you lose sight you carry a good supply
International Tourist Bureau
of him in the chaos. of bottled mineral water to
Map 1 C3. Tel (011) 2334 6804.
Tariffs vary according avoid any health hazards.
to weight, although Trains and Timetables
₹40–75 per item is an
acceptable rate – settle On Board Indian Railways
on a fee at the time of Indians travel with a large ∑ indianrail.gov.in
hiring your porter. amount of luggage and like
The Rail Yatri Niwas making friends while travelling Discounts
(see The Railway by train. So unless you bury Indrail Pass
Network), at New Delhi yourself in a book, be ∑ indiarail.co.uk
Station, offers very prepared to spend
basic facilities, but is time talking to fellow The Royal Trains
a convenient and safe Porters in red, easy passengers. Try to get
night halt. Otherwise to recognize a window seat or the Palace on Wheels
∑ palaceonwheels.net
railway waiting rooms, uppermost sleeper.
most having proper beds, are Toilets are of the Indian and Royal Rajasthan on Wheels
the best place to spend the Western kind. Carry your own ∑ royalrajasthanonwheels.com
night if you are unable to go toilet paper, soap and towel.
The Royal Trains

Travel like the maharajas in the most luxurious
trains in India – the Palace on Wheels and the Royal
Rajasthan on Wheels. From September to April, the
Palace on Wheels operates week-
long tours through the finest sights
of Rajasthan, covering Jaipur, Sawai
Madhopur, Chittorgarh, Udaipur,
Jaisalmer, Jodhpur, Bharatpur and
Agra. The Royal Rajasthan on
Insignia of the Jaipur Wheels visits Khajuraho and
State Railway Varanasi instead of Jaisalmer
and Bharatpur. In opulent
coaches, recreated to resemble the saloons of
erstwhile royalty, you will be treated in royal fashion. Royal service in the Palace on Wheels
290 SUR VIVAL GUIDE
Travelling Around by Bus

All major Indian cities are well connected by a large
network of roads. The highways linking Delhi, Agra and
Jaipur are among the busiest in North India. The advantage
of travelling by long-distance buses, rather than by train,
is that you have a wider choice of timetables and stops.
Deluxe services operated by the state tourist departments
are comfortable and keep to time. The Transport Ministry-
owned buses that run throughout the day from city bus
depots, though cheaper, can be crowded. Travel agencies
and private tour operators have a wide choice of itineraries
revolving around the three cities and their surrounding areas. State government-run ticket counter
for bus reservations
Tours & Travels. Buses run

by the various state tourism
departments are the most
reliable option; they are
comfortable, clean and less
crowded. These buses make
fewer stops compared to
the cheaper alternative of
state government-run buses.
There are overnight sleeper
coaches to Agra and Jaipur
from Delhi. Pick-up points
are usually in city centres.
Uttar Pradesh Tourism
Department buses collect
Buses for various destinations at the Inter-State Bus Terminus, Delhi tourists that have travelled
from Delhi to Agra, via the
State Government- place, so arrive early Taj Express train service, from
run Buses to book your ticket. Then check Agra City Station. After the
State transport departments at the enquiry counter to find day’s tour of Agra, passengers
have a bus service around the the stand where your bus will are dropped back at the station
Golden Triangle and the many depart from. Finally, be prepared well in time to catch the
other cities of India. The main for a lot of jostling as passengers evening train to Delhi.
bus station in Delhi is the rush to get to the best seats. The best way to travel to
Maharana Pratap Inter State Buses provided by Rajasthan Jaipur from Delhi by coach
Bus Terminus at Kashmiri Gate, State Road Transport, however, is via the Rajasthan Tourism
where local and interstate bus leave from Bikaner House, Pink Line. It departs daily at
services depart. It is a chaotic New Delhi. Coaches for Agra 1:30pm from Bikaner House.
depart from Sarai Kale Khan, It is advisable to buy tickets
a relatively less crowded stop in advance, although you
near Hazrat Nizamuddin railway can buy your ticket on the
station. The bus journey to day. There is a break midway
Agra takes about 4 hours in the 5-hour journey for
and almost 5 hours to Jaipur. refreshments. Returning to
Regular interstate services Delhi from Jaipur, state tourism
depart from the Idgah bus buses leave from a stand
stand in Agra, and from outside Hotel Sheetal.
Sindhi Camp in Jaipur.
Package Tours
Department of There are many wonderful
Tourism-run Buses sites to visit in and around
Guided tours within the Agra, Jaipur and Delhi that are
three cities are organized by within easy travelling distance.
the state tourism departments These include religious sites,
Delhi Tourism organizes a variety of (see p273) as well as by the places of historical interest and
innovative package tours Indian government’s Ashok wildlife sanctuaries. Tour buses
DIRECTORY
State Government-
run Buses
Idgah Bus Stop
Agra: Model Town, Idgah Colony.
Tel (0562) 242 0324.
Maharana Pratap Inter
State Bus Terminus
Delhi: Kashmiri Gate, Mori Gate.
Tel (011) 296 0290.
∑ delhigovt.nic.in/newdelhi/
dept/transport/tr6.asp
Rajasthan State Road
Transport Bus Stop
Delhi: Bikaner House, Pandara Rd.
Map 5 B2. Tel (011) 2338 9525.
An overcrowded local bus in Rajasthan ∑ indiatransit.com/public_
transport/rajasthan_state_
run by private operators and of week or longer itineraries road.aspx
travel agencies have regular and extensive package holidays Sarai Kale Khan Bus Stop
coach services departing from that make it possible to visit Delhi: Mahatma Gandhi Rd.
Delhi during the peak tourist many of the region’s best Map 6 F5. Tel (011) 2463 8092.
season of October to March. landmarks with ease. Most of Sindhi Camp Bus Stop
It is feasible to have a day trip these tours are by private coach. Jaipur: Near Station Rd.
Tel (1800) 200 0103.
to Agra, however, if you want Tourism offices and travel
to visit Fatehpur Sikri and all agents who specialize in Department of
of Agra’s sites as well as go adventure tours (see p265) Tourism-run Buses
shopping, it would be wise offer excursion packages in Ashok Tours & Travels
to stop-over for the night. smaller vehicles, including Delhi: Jeevan Vihar Building,
The same is true if you wish guides and accommodation. 3rd Floor, Parliament St.
to take a one- or two-day Map 1 B5. Tel (011) 2374 8165.
trip to Jaipur. ∑ attindiatourism.com
If you have booked a short Tickets and Reservations Uttar Pradesh
bus trip through a travel agent, Ordinary bus fares are slightly Tourism Department
a guided tour is usually included higher than passenger train Tel (0522) 230 7037.
as is an overnight stay at a hotel. tickets, however, deluxe bus ∑ up-tourism.com
Luxurious coaches collect fares are cheaper than first-class Package Tours
passengers from several or air-conditioned train tariffs.
pick-up points, usually It is important to consider what Mercury Travels
Delhi: Jeevan Tara Building,
designated hotels. vehicle you will be travelling in
Sansad Marg. Map 1 B5.
You can reserve a place on before purchasing your ticket. Tel (011) 2336 2008.
a short private tour through Ordinary coaches are slow, Agra: Hotel Clarks Shiraj,
your hotel’s reception desk uncomfortable and usually very 54, Taj Rd. Tel (0562) 222 6531.
or by visiting a travel agency. crowded. In hot weather, an ∑ mercury-india.com
State tourism departments air-conditioned bus is essential Sita World Tours
and private tour companies, for long-distance travel. Tickets Delhi: Tower B, Delta Square,
such as TCI, Mercury Travels, and seat reservations for top- Sector 25, MG Rd, Gurgaon.
Sita World Tours and Thomas of-the-range buses can be Tel (0124) 470 3400.
∑ sitatours.com
Cook India, offer a wide range booked in advance.
TCI
Agra: Hotel Clarks Shiraz, 54,
Taj Rd. Tel (0562) 222 6521.
Delhi: 520, Udyog Vihar Phase III,
Gurgaon. Tel (0124) 612 0100.
Jaipur: 19 C, Gopal Bari, Ajmer Rd.
Tel (0141) 236 2075.
∑ tcindia.com
Thomas Cook India
Agra: Hotel Clarks Shiraz, 54, Taj Rd.
Tel (0562) 285 7777.
Delhi: M 32, M Block Market, Greater
Kailash I. Tel (011) 4163 4521.
Jaipur: 19 C, Gopal Bari,
Ajmer Rd. Tel (0141) 510 2344.
∑ thomascook.in
Clean and comfortable luxury tourist buses
292 SUR VIVAL GUIDE
Travel by Road
Travelling by car is a comfortable and leisurely way to travel
within and between the three cities, allowing you to move
at your own pace and visit whatever sites you wish along
Hand-cart Bullock-cart
the way. Hiring a chauffeur-driven car makes shopping and prohibited prohibited
sightseeing much easier, as it relieves you of the stress of
negotiating traffic and locating destinations. This is often
cheaper than hiring a self-drive car. Vehicles can be hired
from car rental companies, hotels and taxi stands.
What to Take more often the exception than No horn please Bicycle crossing
If you plan to drive yourself, the rule. Bear in mind that there
make sure you bring your are numerous types of road names, to names of well-known
international driving licence. users, from pedestrians to cyclists, Indian or international figures.
It is possible to get a temporary bullock carts and buses. On Therefore it is important to carry
one from the Automobile highways, be wary of trucks that up-to-date and clear maps for
Association of Upper India muscle in whenever possible. the areas you wish to travel.
(AAUI) in Delhi, provided you There are also some unwritten Good maps are available of
have a valid driving licence rules that should be kept in Agra, Delhi and Jaipur as well
from your own country. How- mind. Note that flashing head- as of some of north India’s smaller
ever, you may be required to lights indicates the driver is cities and towns. It is best to buy
take a driving test. coming through, not giving any maps you need before you
You should also have a you way to over take. Few road travel, but you can also purchase
good map or GPS system to users adhere to staying within them when you arrive in India.
help you navigate the often their lane, and often illegally If buying before you leave,
confusing road network. For overtake from the left side Stanfords is always reliable for
more information on this see without any warning. Driving quality maps. For Delhi there is
Directions and Road Signs. through red lights is one of the an excellent city map available
biggest hazards and the cause from Eicher. Agra and Jaipur
of most accidents. Horns are also have clear state tourism
Rules of the Road used constantly, even in city maps which display all
Though there are established “No Horn” areas. the major roads and sights.
traffic rules, such as driving All maps are available in English.
within your own lane and If you are travelling by road
the discreet use of high-beam Directions and between the three cities, it is
lights, traffic can be chaotic on Road Signs advisable to acquire a road map
Indian roads. All too frequently The placement of road signs of North India from the AAUI.
traffic lights do not function, is erratic and at times they are The government Survey of India
and though major crossings not in English. Road names also has a good collection of
should have police guiding have also changed, particularly detailed maps available at their
oncoming vehicles, this is in Delhi, from the old English office. These maps indicate lesser
known places and various road
categories. Road signs of food
and bed symbols will inform
you of approaching motels
and eateries on the highway.
It may also be a good idea
to buy a GPS system to help
you navigate your way through
the crowded streets and high-
ways. MapmyIndia offers GPS
systems that specialise in India’s
extensive road network.
Parking
Parking can be a serious
problem in busy shopping
centres and in the commercial
complexes of the three cities.
A busy street in Delhi crammed with different modes of transport Most parking lots have been
redesigned to cope with the

increased number of vehicles.
Private firms are contracted by
the state to ensure car safety
and provide parking facilities
for a fee of usually around
₹5–20, although sometimes
you may have to pay more. You
should keep your key but leave
your car in neutral gear so that
it can be moved back and forth.
Make sure the attendant gives
you a receipt and check that
you pay no more than the
amount written on it. In Delhi,
Connaught Place and Nehru DLY and DLZ taxis which travel beyond the city limits
Place are among several areas
that have a tiered and protected find yourself with a driver who DIRECTORY
car park. The airport, malls and could double up as a guide as
other public places also offer well as an interpreter. Opting for What to Take
parking facilities in Delhi. a chauffeur-driven car is usually Automobile Association
cheaper than hiring a self-drive of Upper India
car. Certain companies require C 8, Qutub Institutional Centre,
Petrol foreign nationals to pay for Delhi. Tel (011) 2685 2052.
Highways and main roads the driver and car in foreign ∑ aaui.org
have petrol (gasoline) pumps currency but most are willing
at regular intervals, usually to accept payment in rupees Directions and
closer to a town. All fuel stations after negotiating a per km Road Maps
stock unleaded petrol in an (0.6 miles) rate payable in Eicher
effort to reduce air pollution. cash. Car companies based ∑ maps.eicherworld.com
Some petrol stations in Delhi in Delhi, Agra and Jaipur
(such as Inter Club and Queens normally charge a fixed rate Stanfords
Road Service Station), Agra for a minimum of 4 hours or Tel (020) 7836 1321.
∑ stanfords.co.uk
and Jaipur are open 24 hours 40 km (25 miles), or up to 80 km
along with several situated (50 miles) for 8 hours. Rates MapmyIndia
along highways. differ according to the type of ∑ mapmyindia.com
Petrol stations located in car and where you hire it from. Survey of India
cities often have toilets and a Tel (011) 2618 4388.
telephone booth that only allows ∑ surveyofindia.gov.in
local calls. Some service stations Self-drive Car Hire
also have a shop attached. Self-driving through the Petrol
crowded and chaotic city
Inter Club
streets of India, especially Delhi, L1/15 Haus Khas, New Delhi.
Chauffeur-driven Car Hire is not recommended nor safe.
Unless you are physically However, if you are determined Queens Road
prepared and mentally geared to drive yourself, there is a good Service Station
to cope with the driving choice of international and local Vasant Vihar, Delhi.
conditions, you should rent a car rental companies in Delhi. Car Hire
chauffeur-driven car. The drivers Among them, Hertz and
are familiar with Indian traffic International Travel House Carzonrent
rules and regulations, and you offer both self-driven and E 4, Rani Jhansi Rd, Jhandewalan
will not have to worry about chauffeur-driven cars, which Extn, Delhi. Tel (011) 4308 3000.
finding somewhere to park can be hired through travel ∑ carzonrent.com
either. Taxis with DLY or DLZ counters at large hotels or Hertz
number plates can be hired from tourist offices. Rates 43–44 Westend Green Farm
through travel agents, hotels are fixed on a daily rental House Rd, Mahipalpur, Delhi.
and some taxi stands. They and minimum kilometre basis, Tel (011) 4166 7242.
have permits to travel beyond with each extra 1 km (0.6 mile) ∑ hertz.com
city limits. Carzonrent also carrying an extra cost. Fuel and International Travel House
offers chauffeur-driven cars other running costs are extra Agra: Tel (0562) 403 0601.
as well as self-drive options. and a security deposit is taken Delhi: Tel (011) 4165 9466.
It is better to get a driver who in advance, to be refunded only Jaipur. Tel (0141) 401 2020.
is familiar with the city you plan if there is no damage to the car ∑ travelhouseindia.com
to visit. If you are lucky, you may when you return it.
294 SUR VIVAL GUIDE
Local Transport in the Cities looking for customers, however

it is safer to hire one from a taxi
There are a variety of local transport options to choose from stand. There may be taxis
in Delhi, Jaipur and Agra, ranging from the Delhi Metro, buses waiting at large hotels.
and taxis to auto- and cycle-rickshaws. While the Delhi Metro These vehicles are always
well-maintained with the
is generally packed with passengers, it offers a faster way to meters in good working order.
travel, avoiding the busy streets above. The three cities are all Another popular alternative
notorious for their traffic jams. The narrow lanes in the older are the various radio taxi
sections of these cities are best negotiated by the smallest companies such as Mega Cabs
vehicle possible – a cycle-rickshaw is often the smartest (www.megacabs.com) and
Meru Cabs (www.merucabs.
option. Though there is a wide choice of local transport,
com), which can be booked
taxis are generally considered the most comfortable and by phone or online. Radio
stress-free way to travel. Most drivers can speak some English. taxis do tend to be more
expensive than regular cabs,
but they are more reliable.
tickets from a In Agra and Jaipur, taxis
conductor once don’t run by the meter but
you have boarded charge according to distance,
the bus. However, if a prefixed rate, or, if you want
a bus is full, it will not to hire the cab for a longer
stop, and so bus stops period, by the day. Your hotel
are usually crowded or travel agent can tell you
with waiting com- where to find reliable drivers
muters who often and can give you estimates
jump onto the bus on what rates you should
A CNG powered bus, driving in Delhi while it is still moving. be paying. Many drivers
Delhi has an have an agreement
Delhi Metro extremely complex bus with certain shops
Delhi’s metro system provides network that is often who give them a
an extensive and relatively too difficult for visitors commission if they
cheap service. The network has to make sense of. Also, bring customers
six lines and an excellent Airport the city’s bus drivers willing to spend
Express service, which provides are notorious for their money, so you
a faster link between the airport reckless driving. Even must be firm
and the city centre than making the so-called luxury Auto-rickshaw, a cheaper about where
the journey by road. Delhi’s buses move at a travelling option you want to go.
metro network is complemented great speed.
by a ring railway encircling the If you insist on travelling by
city centre, which provides bus ask at your hotel or the Auto-rickshaws
connections with some of nearest tourist information Auto-rickshaws are useful
the outer boroughs. centre for advice. for travelling short distances
Trains run daily from 6am to or through crowded localities.
11pm, at a frequency of about The three-wheeled, black-and-
every 3 minutes in rush hour Taxis yellow or green-and-yellow
and every 12 minutes off-peak. The black-and-yellow taxis in auto-rickshaws zigzag through
Tickets, in the forms of Delhi operate within the city the traffic. They offer a noisy,
tokens, Tourist Cards or Smart limits. Cabs cruise the streets bumpy ride but are still a better
Cards, are available to purchase
from metro stations. A token
is valid for a single trip, whereas
Smart and Tourist Cards are
refillable travelcards that
allow multiple journeys.
Buses
Bus services in most Indian
cities are never adequate for
the large numbers who can
only afford this cheap means
of travel, and so buses are
always crowded. You can buy Different vehicles jostling in the streets of Jaipur
Auto-rickshaws charge ₹19 for

the initial 2 km (1 mile) and then
₹6.50 for every subsequent km
(0.6 miles). There is a 25 per cent
surcharge for auto-rickshaws trips
made between 11pm and 5am,
and for taxi journeys between
10pm and 6am. As rates may
change due to increases in fuel
prices, it is sensible to use the
up-to-date fare chart that auto
and taxi drivers always carry to
calculate the exact amount
owning from the meter reading.
Cycle-rickshaws, convenient for covering short distances in inner city areas Both day and night fares are
given separately on either side
option than buses and are are also the most popular of the rate chart. Be sure to
cheaper than taxis. In Delhi, means of local transport. check the correct column before
vehicles can carry up to three In small towns, the creaky you pay. There is also an extra
passengers but in smaller horse-drawn carriages called charge of ₹7.50 for luggage.
towns they are often jammed tongas and ikkas offer a leisurely Pre-paid taxi and auto-
with people and luggage. ride. Tempos are wagons with rickshaw booking booths stand
the rear half fitted with seats. outside railway stations and
They are not very comfortable airports. You pay a fixed amount
Cycle-rickshaws, Tongas and set off only when all seats in advance according to the
and Tempos are occupied. distance you wish to travel. Ask
The cycle-rickshaw is the most your hotel or travel agency about
common mode of transport in how much general rates cost. A
small towns and congested Fares and Meters receipt is given at the booth, that
older sections of Indian cities. All auto-rickshaws and taxis you must hand over to the driver
A convenient means of cover- in Delhi have meters but this at the end of your journey. It is not
ing short distances, these are is not the case in Agra and necessary to tip the drivers but
most commonly seen in the Jaipur, where fares should be any tips will be gladly accepted.
walled city of Old Delhi. While negotiated in advance. In Delhi, There is no set rate for a cycle-
empty cycle-rickshaws can you should insist on paying by rickshaw ride but ₹5–15 is a
be easily found and hired in Old the meter. Rates for metered fair price. Always negotiate
Delhi and smaller towns, they taxis start at ₹20 for the fist km beforehand as cycle-rickshaws
are banned from Central Delhi. In (0.6 miles) and then ₹11–13 tend to over charge tourists.
Agra and Jaipur, cycle-rickshaws for every km after that. A tip of ₹1–2 is sufficient.
Delhi Metro Map Key
Rithala Rohini West Jahangirpuri Adarsh Nagar Metro line

Pitampura Model Town
Rohini East Azadpur Interchange station
Netaji Subhash Place Vishwa Vidyalaya
Kohat Enclave GTB Nagar Metro stop
Kanhaiya Nagar
Keshav Puram Vidhan Sabha
Civil Lines
Rajdhani Udyog Paschim Madi Punjabi Pratap Tis Shastri

Park Nangloi Nagar Vihar West Pur Bagh Nagar Hazari Park Seelampur Shahdara Jhilmil
Mundka
Ashok Inderlok Kashmiri Gate
Nangloi Surajmal Peera Paschim Shivaji Shastri Pulbangash Welcome Mansarovar Dilshad
Station Stadium Garhi Vihar East Park Park Main Nagar Chandni Chowk Park Garden
Satguru Chawri Bazar Nirman Karka
Ramsingh Marg Vihar Duma Kaushambi
New Delhi Laxmi
Janak Tilak Tagore Ramesh Rajendra Karol Nagar
Puri East Nagar Garden Kirti
Nagar Nagar Place Bagh R K Ashram
Marg Preet Anand Vaishali
Janak Puri Vihar Vihar
West
Uttam Nagar Subhash Rajouri Moti Shadipur Patel Jhandewalan Akshardham
West Uttam Nagar Garden Nagar Nagar Barah-
Dwarka Mor Nagar East Shivaji khamba Yamuna Mayur Vihar 1
Stadium Patel Rajiv
Chowk Chowk Road Bank
Dwarka Nawada
Central Indraprastha New Ashok Nagar
Dwarka Sector 14 Secretariat Mayur
Janpath Mandi Vihar Extension
Dwarka Sector 13 Udyog House Pragati
Khan Maidan Noida
Bhawan Noida Sector 16
Dwarka Sector 12 Dhaula Kuan Market Sector 15
JLN Stadium
Ya
Dwarka Sector 11 Noida

Race Course Noida City
m
Dwarka Sector 9 Jangpura Sector 18

un
Dwarka Delhi Aerocity Centre

a
Sector 10 Dwarka Sector 21 Botanical Golf

Dwarka Sector 8 Jor Bagh Garden Course
Lajpat Nagar
INA Moolchand Kalakaji
Indira Gandhi Mandir Okhla Sarita Vihar
Airport AIIMS Kailash
Colony
IFFCO Arjan Qutab Malviya Green Nehru Govind Jasola Mohan Estate
Chowk Sikandarpur Garh Sultanpur Minar Nagar Park Place Puri
Tuglakabad
Sushant MG Garden Ghitorni Chhatapur Saket Hauz Badarpur

Lok Road Estate Khas
296 GENERAL INDEX
General Index
Page numbers in bold refer to Amanat Khan 161 Art Heritage (Delhi) 125
main entries. Amar Singh Gate (Agra Fort) 154 Aryabhatta 51
Amaravati (Andhra Pradesh) 78 Aryans 21, 47, 48
A Ambala 105 Ashley, Edwina (Mountbatten) 107
Aam Aadmi Party 64 Ambedkar Stadium (Delhi) 266 Ashok Group 233, 235
Aapki Pasand (Delhi) 123 Amber 185, 204–7 Ashok Tours & Travel (Delhi) 290, 291
Aath (“eight”) Havelis (Nawalgarh) 217 history 183, 186, 187 Ashoka, Mauryan emperor 50, 212
Abdar Khana (Fatehpur Sikri) 176 township 207 Ashokan edict 50
Abdur Rahim Khan-i-Khanan 109 Amber Fort 11, 15, 204–6 Ashokan pillars 101, 107
Abhimanyu 213 Ambika Exports (Jaipur) 261 Ashoka tree (Saraca indica) 25
Abraham & Thakore (Delhi) 123 Ambikeshwar Mahadev Temple Ashrams see Dharamshalas and
Abu’l Fazl 210 (Amber) 207 ashrams
Accommodation see Hotels American Express 282 Asian Games Village Complex 112
Achariyon ki Haveli (Galta) 200 American Library (Delhi) 284, 285 Asiatic Society of Bengal 59
Addresses 285 Amir Khan 226 Atamsukh 195
Adhai Din ka Jhonpra (Ajmer) 222 Amrapali (Jaipur) 261 Atgah Khan’s tomb (Delhi) 86
Adham Khan 86, 89 Anaji 223 Athpula 83
Adham Khan’s Tomb (Mehrauli) 115, Anangpal 121 ATMs 282
117 Anangpur Dam 121 Attar 95
Adi Granth 27 Anasagar Lake (Ajmer) 222, 223 Aurangabad 194
Adiga, Aravind 65 Ancient Monuments Preservation Act Aurangzeb, Mughal emperor 57, 77,
Adilabad 118–19 1904 61 98, 101, 154, 186, 210, 226
Admission prices 273 Andaman Islands 62 Aurobindo Ashram (Delhi) 268
Aëdes egypti mosquito 281 Anglo-Afghan Wars Auto-rickshaws 294–5
Afzal Khan 162 Sedcond 61 Automobile Association of Upper
Agra 139, 151, 154–63 Third 75 India (AAUI) 292, 293
A Day in Agra 11 Anglo-Arabic School 100 Ayurveda Kendra Clinic (Rishikesh)
food and drink 245 Anglo-Indian community 27 268, 269
hotels 239–40 Anguri Bagh (Agra Fort) 14, 154
map 155 Anhilwad 53 B
restaurants 254 Ankh Michauli (Fatehpur Sikri) 175 Baba Kharak Singh Marg 81
shopping 260 Annakut 41 Babri Masjid (Delhi) 65
Two Days in Agra 14 Anokhi (Delhi) 83, 122, 123 Babur, Mughal emperor 56, 88, 144,
Agra and around 150–81 Anokhi (Jaipur) 261 147, 162, 218
exploring Agra and around 152–3 Anoop Talao (Fatehpur Sikri) 174, 175, and the Paradise Garden 171
hotels 239–40 176 Babur Nama 36, 78, 210
restaurants 254–5 Anopheles mosquito 281 Badal Mahal (Jaipur) 186
Agra Club 157 Antiques 122, 123, 259, 272 Badi Chaupar (Jaipur) 11, 190
Agra Fort 11, 14, 150, 151, 154, 170 Apartheid 63 street-by-street 188–9
Agra Fort Railway Station 156 Aquatera Adventures (Delhi) 234, 235 Badkhal Lake 269
Ahmad Shah Abdali 144 Arab ki Sarai 87 Badshahi Darwaza (Fatehpur Sikri)
AIDS 281 Arab traders 26 177
Air France 286, 287 Aram Bagh (Agra) 162 Baghera 222
Air India 286, 287 Aram Bagh (Amber) 206 Bagru 15, 208, 209, 260
Air travel 286–7 Aram Mandir (Jaigarh) 203 Bahadur Shah Zafar 98, 100, 101, 114,
Ajabgarh 213 Aravallis 21, 24, 108, 138, 183, 212, 117
Ajitgarh 107 214, 228, 266 Baha’i House of Worship (Delhi) 13,
Ajmer 138, 183, 222–5 Arayish 202 66–7, 119
hotels 240 Archaeological Museum (Gwalior) Baha’i sect 119
map 223 178 Bahlol Lodi’s tomb (Delhi) 83, 112
restaurants 255 Archaeological Museum (Jaipur) 190 Bahri & Sons (Delhi) 83
Ajmeri Gate (Delhi) 93, 100 Archaeological Survey of India 109, Bairat 212–13
Akbar, Mughal emperor 56, 115, 144, 207, 222, 259, 272, 275 Baisakhi 40, 42
154, 156, 174, 183, 195, 206, 227 Architecture 30–33 Baker, Herbert 31, 72, 74
tomb (Sikandra) 31, 164 colonial features 31 Bala Qila (Alwar) 210, 212
Akbar II, Mughal emperor 117, 119 early Indian 30 Balban 54
Akbar International (Agra) 261 early Indian architecture 30 Balban’s Tomb (Mehrauli) 115
Akbari Mosque (Amber) 207 fort architecture 32 Balloon Mela (Delhi) 44
Akbar’s Mosque (Ajmer) 225 glossary of 33 Bandung Conference 64
Alai Darwaza 30, 55, 116 history of 30–31 Banganga, River 213
Alamgiri Koran Sharif 226 Islamic 30 Bangladesh 64
Albert, Prince of Wales 198 Monsoon architecture 169 Bani Thani 219
Alcohol 243, 277 Mughal 31, 163 Banke Bihari Temple (Brindavan) 167
Alexander the Great 49, 165 palace architecture 32 Banks 282–3
All India Institute of Medical Sciences Arjuna 145, 213 Banyan tree (Ficus bengalensis) 24,
(Delhi) 278, 279 Armenian communities 27 228
Allahabad 148 Art Bara Darwaza (Delhi) 88
Alliance Française (Delhi) 124 Buddhist 51, 165 Bara Gumbad (Delhi) 13, 83
Alwar 13, 138, 210–11, 212 contemporary Indian 37 Bara Hindu Rao (Delhi) 107
hotels 240 Islamic 226 Baradari 206
map 211 Mughal 56, 79 Baramasa 37
restaurants 255 Rajput 53 Bargaining 277
GENERAL INDEX 297
Bari 171 Boileau, JT 157 Chakra Yantra (Jaipur) 196

Bars 125, 265 Bombay (Mumbai) 27, 59 Chakravarty, Vidyadhar 187, 190, 194
Barsana 166 Books Corner (Jaipur) 261 Chaksu 40, 226
Bayabani, Hazrat Shah Turkman 100 Bookshops 123, 261 Chambal, River 24, 25, 151, 170
Bazaars 259, 261 Bookwise (Jaipur) 261 Chambal ravines 21
Agra 14, 259–61 Bose, Subhash Chandra 63 Champaran Satyagraha 62
Bazaar food 245 Bradman, Donald 65 Chand, Nihal 219
Delhi 97 Brahma 29, 220 Chand Pol (Amber) 207
Jaipur 259–61 Brahma Temple (Pushkar) 220 Chandellas 53
Beating Retreat 45, 74 Brahmapuri 149 Chandni Chowk (Delhi) 12, 80, 93, 96,
Begg, John 108 Brahmasar (Kurukshetra) 144 97, 122, 123
Beggars 277 Brahmi script 101, 107 street-by-street 94–5
Begum Samroo 59, 141, 146 Brahmpuri 202 Chandra Kumari Ranawatji 199
Begum Skinner 144 Brajbhumi driving tour 166–7 Chandra Mahal (Jaipur) 15, 186, 192,
Begumpuri (Delhi) 100 Brendish & Pilkington (Delhi) 105 193, 194, 202, 216
Begumpuri Mosque (Delhi) 113 Brindavan 22, 42, 43, 151, 152, 166–7, Chandrabhaga, River 148
Bengal 52, 58 186, 264, 265 Chandragupta I 49, 51
famine (1770) 58 hotels 240 Chandragupta II 51
partition 61 British Airways 286, 287 Char Chowk Haveli (Lachhmangarh)
renaissance 37 British Council (Delhi) 124, 125, 284, 217
Besant, Annie 62 285 Char Dham pilgrim route 148
Betwa, River 139, 180 British East India Company 22, 27, 47, Char Qutbs (Hansi) 144
Beyond Delhi 136–229 58, 59, 60, 117, 170 Charbagh 33, 109, 171
Agra and around 150–81 British rule 22, 47, 58–63 Deeg Water Palace 169
Jaipur and environs 182–229 Buddha, Gautam 27, 49, 51, 78, 108 Jai Niwas Bagh (Jaipur) 186
North of Delhi 140–49 Buddha Jayanti 41, 42, 108 Sikandra 164
Bhagavad Gita 51, 141, 145 Buddha Jayanti Park (Delhi) 19, 42, Sisodia Rani ka Bagh 200
Bhai Duj 41 108 Taj Mahal (Agra) 159
Bhajans 34 Buddhism 26, 27, 47, 165 Charles, Prince of Wales 199
Bhakti Movement 22 rise of 50, 51 Chatar ki Burj (Jaipur) 187
Bhangarh 213 Buddhist art 51, 165 Chatta Chowk (Delhi) 98
Bhansali tribe 90 Buddhist kingdom 21 Chaturbhuj Temple (Orchha) 180
Bharany’s (Delhi) 122, 123 Buddhist philosophy 268 Chaugan 187
Bharat Boot House (Jaipur) 261 Budget hotels 233 Chaugan Stadium (Jaipur) 42, 187,
Bharata Natyam 124 Bugatti cars 211 267
Bharatiya Janata Party 64, 65 Buland Darwaza (Ajmer) 225 Chauhan, Prithviraj 52, 54, 111, 223
Bharatiya Vidya Bhavan 268 Buland Darwaza (Fatehpur Sikri) 14, Chauhans 183
Bharatpur 151, 170, 172, 183 56, 177 Chaunsath Khamba (Delhi) 86
hotels 240 Bulbulekhan area (Delhi) 100 Chaurasi kos ki yatra 166
kings of 167, 168 Bundela kings 139, 179, 180 Chausa Battle 56
restaurants 254–5 Bundelkhand, Tour of 179 Chawri Bazaar (Delhi) 97
Bharatpur Fort 58 Bungalows 31 Cheeta (Jaipur) 265
Bharmal ki Chhatri (Amber) 207 Bureaux de change 282 Cheetal (Indian spotted deer) 24, 215
Bhartiya Haveli 33 Bus travel 290–91 Chhipa Mohalla (Sanganer) 209
Bhatt (pastoral community) 265 in cities 294 Chhoti Chaupar (Jaipur) 188
Bhim ki Doongri (Bairat) 213 Bustan-e-Sadi 78 Children
Bhopa musicians 264 Buxar, Battle of 58 activities 267, 269
Bhuramal Rajmal Surana (Jaipur) 261 A Family Day Out in Delhi 10
Big Cinema (Jaipur) 265 C in hotels 235
Bijak ki Pahadi (Bairat) 212 Calcutta (Kolkata) 107, 164 travelling with 273
Bijasan Mata (Durga) 227 Calendar of events 42–5 China 51
Bijay Mandal (Delhi) 113 Calligraphy 54, 77 Chini ka Rauza (Agra) 162
Bir Singh Deo 178, 180 Taj Mahal 159, 161 Chini ki Burj (Jaipur) 187
Birbal ka Chatta (Narnaul) 144 Camel Fair see Pushkar Fair Chiragh Delhi 112
Birbal’s House (Fatehpur Sikri) 176 Camping 234, 235, 268, 269 Chishti, Khwaja Moinuddin 41, 138,
Bird Hospital (Delhi) 95, 96 Canning, Lord 60 222, 224
Birds Cantonment towns 109 Chishti, Salim 174
Kedadeo Ghana National Park Car rental 293 tomb of 14, 177
172, 173 chauffeur-driven 293 Chishti sect 86, 112, 144
Sariska National Park 215 Carnatic music 124 Chola dynasty 78
Sultanpur Bird Sanctuary 120 The Carpet Cellar (Delhi) 122, 123 Cholera 281
Birdwatching 268 Carpets, buying 122, 123, 261 Chomu 216
Birla, GD 81 Carzonrent 293 Chor Minar 110
Birla Auditorium (Jaipur) 265 Castle Mandawa 236, 241, 257 Chowsingha 215
Birla Mandir (Delhi) 81 Cellular Jail (Andaman Islands) 62 Christianity 27
Birla Planetarium (Jaipur) 199 Central Jail (Meerut) 146 Christmas 41, 44
Birlas 82, 198, 216 Central Park (Delhi) 81 Chrysanthemum Show (Delhi) 44
Bites 280 Central Post Office (Agra) 157 Church Missionary Society 156, 164
Biyani Haveli (Sikar) 216, 217 Ceramic tiles 54 Churches
Black-necked stork 172 Chahamanas 53 Cathedral Church of the
Blockprinted textiles 208, 209, 260 Chaitanya Mahaprabhu 166 Redemption (Delhi) 75
Body language 276 Chaitya hall (Bairat) 212 Cathedral (Meerut) 146
298 GENERAL INDEX
Churches (cont.) Cultural studies 268, 269 Dhaka (Bangladesh) 62

Havelock Memorial Church (Agra) Culture 24 Dhamma 50, 107
157 Cunningham 222 Dhar 53
Roman Catholic Cathedral (Agra) Currency 282–3 Dharamshalas and ashrams 233, 235
157 Curzon, Lord 61, 115, 174, 222 Dharma 145
Roman Catholic Church of the Customs regulations 272–3, 275, 287 Dholpur 170–71
Sacred Heart (Mathura) 165 Cuts 280 hotels 240
St Andrew’s Church (Roorkee) 142 Cycle-rickshaws 295 Dhrupad 167
St George’s Church (Agra) 157 Dhrupad Festival (Delhi) 45
St James’s Church (Delhi) 105 D Dhurries 260, 261
St John the Baptist Church Da Milano (Delhi) 122, 123 Dialling codes 284
(Roorkee) 147 Dabra 179 Digamber Jain Mandir (Delhi) 96
St John’s Church (Meerut) 146 Dalai Lama 27, 108 Dilaram Bagh (Amber) 206
St Martin’s Church (Delhi) 108 Dalhousie, Lord 60 Dilkusha Kothi (Sardhana) 146
Churiwali Gali (Delhi) 97 Dalmias 216 Dilli Haat (Delhi) 13, 109, 122, 123
Churu 15 Damoh 171 Diners Club 282
hotels 240 Dance 34–5, 264 Dinpanah 88
Cinemas 124–5, 265 Delhi 124, 125 Directorate of Film Festivals 124
City Palace (Alwar) 13, 210 Dandi Salt March 63 Disabled travellers 274
City Palace Museum (Alwar) 13, 210 Daniells (artist) 75 in hotels 235
City Palace Museum (Jaipur) 11, 15, Dara Shikoh 87 Discounts
192–5 Dara Shikoh’s Marriage Procession 76 hotels 234
Arms Gallery 195 Dargah Bazaar (Ajmer) 225 train 288
Chandra Mahal 194 Dargah Qutb Sahib (Mehrauli) 114, Diva Burj (Jaigarh) 203
plan 193 117 Diwali 41, 44, 201, 203
Sabha Niwas 195 Dargah Sharif (Ajmer) 222, 224–5 Diwan-i-Aam (Agra Fort) 154
Textiles and Costumes Gallery 194 Dariba Kalan (Delhi) 95, 97, 122, 123 Diwan-i-Aam (Amber) 206
Transport Gallery 195 Darter (snake bird) 25, 172 Diwan-i-Aam (Fatehpur Sikri) 174
Civil Disobedience Movement 63 Daryaganj (Delhi) 123 Diwan-i-Aam (Jaipur) 193, 195
Civil Lines (Delhi) 103, 104, 106 Datia 151, 178, 179 Diwan-i-Aam (Red Fort) 98
Civilizations, early 48–9 Datia Palace 178 Diwan-i-Khas (Agra Fort) 154
Classic Golf Resort 267, 269 Daulat Bagh (Ajmer) 223 Diwan-i-Khas (Fatehpur Sikri) 174
Classical music and dance 264 Davis Cup 266 Diwan-i-Khas (Jaipur) 20, 193
Climate 42–5, 272 Debit cards 282 Diwan-i-Khas (Red Fort) 99
Clive, Lord Robert 58 Deccan Aviation (Delhi) 267, 269 Doctrine of Lapse 60
Clothing Deeg 151, 167 Draupadi 145, 213
suitable dress 277 Deeg Water Palace 168–9 Drinks see Food and drink
what to take 274 Degs 225 Driving 292–3
Clubs 125 Delhi 66–135 The Drunken Courtesan 51
Coffee shops 242 day trips 120–21 Dry days 243
Colonial architecture 31 Delhi at a glance 68–9 Dry deciduous forests 24
Colonial era 58–63 entertainment 124–5 Duleh Rai 201
Colour, in Indian design 38–9 A Family Day Out in Delhi 10 Dundlod Fort 217
Commonwealth Games (Delhi) 65 food and drink 244 Durbar of 1903 60–61
Commonwealth War Graves Further Afield 102–21 Durga 29, 40, 227
Cemetery (Delhi) 108 hotels 238–9 Durga Puja 41
Communications 284–5 Museums and Shopping in Delhi Dussehra 34, 41, 44
Company Bagh (Alwar) 210–11 10–11 Dutch East India Company 157
Company Bagh (Saharanpur) 147 New Delhi 70–83 Dwarka’s (Jaipur) 261
Company School of Painting 37 Nizamuddin to Purana Qila 84–91 Dysentery 281
Congress Party 61, 62–3, 64 North of Delhi 140–49
Connaught, Duke of 80 Old Delhi 92–101 E
Connaught Place (Delhi) 12, 68, 71, restaurants 250–52 Easter 40
80, 122 seven cities of 111 Eastern Court 82
Constitution of India 26, 74 shopping 122–3 Economy 65
Contonment (Agra) 157 Street Finder 126–35 Ecotourism 268
Conversion chart 275 Three Days in Delhi 12–13 Edward VII, King 37, 61, 109
Cooch Behar 198 Delhi Cantonment 103, 106, 108 Egrets 120, 172
Cooke & Kelvey (Delhi) 122, 123 Delhi College 100 Eicher 292, 293
Coolies (licensed porters) 289 Delhi Diary 124 Electricity 275
Cormorants 172 Delhi Gate (Agra) 154, 156 Elephant Festival (Jaipur) 42
Coronation Durbar 60–61 Delhi Golf Club 266, 269 Embassies and consulates 273, 275
Coronation Memorial 107 Delhi Riding Club 267, 269 Embroidery 157, 261
Coronation Park (Delhi) 75 Delhi Sultanate 54–5, 116 Emergencies 278, 279
Correa, Charles 89, 199 Delhi Tourism 44, 273, 275 Empires, ancient 50–51
Cottage Industries (Delhi) 122, 123 Delhi University 107 Entertainment 264–5
Cottons (Delhi) 122, 123 Demetrius 50 booking tickets 264
Cottons (Jaipur) 261 Demoiselle cranes 120 cinemas 265
Courier services 284, 285 Dengue fever 280 classical music and dance 264
Crafts Museum (Delhi) 11, 69, 90–91 Department of Tourism-run buses Delhi 124–5
shop 91, 122, 123 290 folk theatre, music and dance
Crafts, shopping 123, 263 Departure tax 287 264–5
Credit Cards 282–3 Design, Indian 38–9 performing arts centres 265
Crested serpent eagle 24 Devanagari 101 puppet shows 265
Cricket 65, 266 Dhak (Butea monosperma) 24, 215 Escorts Heart Institute (Delhi) 279
GENERAL INDEX 299
Etiquette 276–7 Forts (cont.) Ghat ki Guni 201

European mercenaries 58 Lohagarh Fort (Bharatpur) 170 Ghata (“cloud”) Mosque (Delhi) 101
European traders and colonizers 58–9 Nahargarh 15, 202 Ghaus, Muhammad, tomb 178
Eve-teasing 274 Neemrana Fort Palace 236, 241 Ghazi-ud-Din 100
Everest, Mount 64 Rajgarh 212 madrasa 100
Exhibitions, Delhi 125 Ramgarh 201 tomb 100
Ranthambhore Fort 228 Ghiyasuddin Tughlaq 111, 118, 119
F Red Fort (Delhi) 12, 32, 43, 69, 93, tomb (Delhi) 119
Fa Hsien 51 96, 98–9 Ghumar dance 264
Fabindia (Delhi) 122, 123 Rohilla Fort (Saharanpur) 147 Ghungroos 35
Fakr-ul-Masjid (Delhi) 104 Roopangarh Fort 219 Giardiasis 281
Faqir Chand’s (Delhi) 83 Shergarh Fort (Dholpur) 171 Gifts, shopping for 123
The Far Pavilions (film) 216 Taragarh Fort (Ajmer) 222 Gita Jayanti 144
Fariborz Sahba 119 Tughlaqabad Fort 118–19 Gita Research Centre (Kurukshetra)
Fateh Burj (Bharatpur) 170 Fraser, William 105 144
Fateh Jang’s Tomb (Alwar) 211 Freedom Movement 62–3, 82 GMVN Tourist Office 234, 235
Fatehpur 58, 217 French Cultural Centre 124 GoAir 286, 287
Fatehpur Sikri 14, 151, 174–7 Full Circle (Delhi) 83 Gods and goddesses, Hindu 28–9
hotels 240 Further Afield (Delhi) 102–21 Godse, Nathuram 82
plan 175 area map 103 Goenka haveli (Fatehpur) 217
restaurants 255 Around Kashmiri Gate street-by- Goenkas 216
Fatehpuri Begum 96 street 104–5 Gokul 166
Fatehpuri Masjid (Delhi) 96 hotels 239 Golden Temple (Amritsar) 27
Ferghana 171 restaurants 251–2 Gole Market 80
Ferozabad 101, 111 Golf 266–7
Feroze Shah Kotla (Delhi) 101, 266 G Golkara 109
Feroze Shah Tughlaq 55, 82, 100, 101, Gaitor (Brahmpuri) 202–3 Gondophernes 50
107, 108, 111, 113, 116, 144, 171 Galis and katras (Old Delhi) 93 Good Earth (Delhi) 123
tomb 110 Galta 185, 200 Good Friday 40
Festivals 40–41 Gandhak ki Baoli (Mehrauli) 115 Gopal Bhavan (Deeg Water Palace) 168
Films 124–5 Gandhara sculpture 51 Gopal Sagar (Deeg Water Palace) 168
Firoz Khan Khwajasara’s Tomb (Agra) Gandhi, Indira 64, 82 Gopalji ka Rasta (Jaipur) 261
157 Gandhi, Kasturba 82 Gopinath Temple (Brindavan) 167
First City 124, 285 Gandhi, MK 62, 63, 72, 81 Govardhan 41, 166
First-aid kit 274, 280 birthday 44, 101 Govardhan Puja 41
Fishing 269 Gandhi Smriti (Delhi) 82 Government Botanical Gardens
Fitness centres, hotel 232 Gandhi, Rajiv 64, 65, 82 (Saharanpur) 147
Flag, Indian 64 Gandhi, Sonia 64 Government Central Museum
Flame of the forest (Butea Gandhi Jayanti 44 (Jaipur) 198
monosperma) 38 Gandhi National Museum (Delhi) 101 Government emporia 259, 261
Flavours of Delhi, Agra and Jaipur Gandhi Samadhi 63 Government Museum (Mathura) 165
244–5 Gandhi Smriti (Delhi) 82 Govind Dev 203
Flavours of the Tandoor 246–7 Ganeriwala family 217 Govind Dev Temple (Jaipur) 186, 264
Floral motifs Ganesh Chaturthi 41 Govindeoji Temple (Brindavan) 166
blockprinted textiles 209 Ganesh Pol (Amber) 205, 206 Grah Sangrah Department Store
Itimad-ud-Daulah’s Tomb (Agra) 163 Ganesh Temple (Sawai Madhopur) (Jaipur) 261
Taj Mahal 160, 161 227 Grand Trunk Road 144, 152, 154, 164
Folk theatre, music and dance 264–5 Ganesha 28, 29 Greeks 47, 49, 50
Food and drink Ganesi Lal International (Agra) 261 Green travel 286
alcohol 243 Ganga Canal Irrigation Project 147 Greeting people 276
bazaar food 245 Ganga Canal Workshop (Roorkee) 147 Grey herons 172
eating Indian-style 277 Ganga Devi 91 Grey partridge 215
Flavours of Delhi, Agra and Jaipur Gangaur Festival (Jaipur) 42, 188, 217 Grishma 40–41
244–5 Ganges, River 29, 47, 139, 140, 141, Grover, Satish 89
Flavours of the Tandoor 246–7 148, 269 Guesthouses 233
food and water-borne diseases 281 River tour along the Ganges 149 Guides 273
glossary of typical Indian food Ganges Valley 48, 49, 50 Gujarat 56
248–9 Ganjifa 145 Gujari Mahal (Gwalior) 178
roadside and market food stalls 243 Garden tombs 33 Gujjar tribe 118
vegetarian food 243, 248–9 Garganery teal 172 Gulab Singh Johari Mal 123
see also Restaurants Garuda 29, 222 Gulistan 210
Football 266 Gauri 42 Gupta empire 47, 50, 51, 78, 165
Foreign Post Office (Delhi) 284, 285 Gauri Shankar Mandir (Delhi) 96 Gurjara-Pratiharas 52
Foreigner’s Regional Registration Gay and lesbian travellers 274 Guru Nanak 27, 41
Offices 272, 275 Gayatri 220 Guru Purab 41
Forts Gayatri Devi 198, 199, 203 Guru Tegh Bahadur 94
Agra Fort 11, 14, 150, 151, 154, 170 Gayatri Temple (Pushkar) 220 Guru-ka-Tal (Sikandra) 164
Amber Fort 11, 15, 204–6 Gem Palace (Jaipur) 261 Gurukul Kangri University (Hardiwar)
architecture 32 General elections 64, 65 148
Dundlod Fort 217 George V, King 75, 80, 107 Gwalior 151, 178, 179
Gwalior Fort 178 George, Walter 107 hotels 240
Hill Fort (Kesroli) 237 Ghalib, Mirza 85, 86 restaurants 255
Indergarh 227 Ghalib Academy (Delhi) 86 Gwalior, Maharaja of 237
Jaigarh 202, 203, 204, 207 Gharial (Gavialis gangeticus) 25 Gwalior Fort 178
Kakod Fort 227 Ghat ke Balaji 200–201 Gwalior Gharana (music) 178
300 GENERAL INDEX
H Hotel Pushkar Palace (Pushkar) 236 Indian Railways 288

Haji Begum 87 Hotels 232–41 Indian Red Cross Society 278, 279,
Haldiyon ka Rasta (Jaipur) 261 booking, checking in and out 234 281
Hall of Nations and Industries (Delhi) budget hotels and tourist lodges Indian roller bird 229
89 233 IndiGo 286, 287
Hamams (Red Fort) 98 chains 232, 235 Indika 49
Handloom House (Jaipur) 261 children in 235 Indira Chowk (Delhi) 80
Hansi 105, 141, 144 disabled travellers in 235 Indira Gandhi (IG) International
Hanuman 28, 29, 41, 52, 200, 201 grading and facilities 232 Airport (Delhi) 286
Har-ki-Pauri (Hardiwar) 148 heritage 233, 235, 236–7 Indira Gandhi National Centre for the
Haram Sara (Fatehpur Sikri) 176 hidden extras 234 Arts (Delhi) 75, 125
Harappan Culture 21, 48–9, 78 luxury 232 Indo Asia Tours (Delhi) 268, 269
Hardayal Library (Delhi) 96 mid-range 233 Indo-Pakistan War 64, 75
Hardinge, Lord 107, 156 prices and discounts 234 Indo-Saracenic architecture 31
Haridwar 139, 140, 141, 148, 269 taxes 234 Indra 41
hotels 239 Houses, traditional 33 Indrail pass 288
restaurants 253 Hujra (Jami Masjid, Fatepur Sikri) 177 Indraprashtra Apollo (Delhi) 279
Harsha Vardhana 51 Humayun, Mughal emperor 56, 87, Indraprastha 88
88, 111, 164, 224 Indrasal, Raja 227
Hasan Tahir, Sheikh 113
Humayun’s Gate (Delhi) 88 Indus (Sindhu), River 47, 48
Hastinapur 145
Humayun’s Library (Delhi) 88 Indus Valley 47, 48, 49, 76, 78, 141
Hathi Bhata 227
Humayun’s Tomb (Delhi) 10, 13, 33, Industry 65
Hathi Pol (Fatehpur Sikri) 176
56, 69, 85, 87 Insect-borne diseases 280–81
Hauz Khas (Delhi) 12, 110, 122, 242
Huns 47 Insurance 279
Hauz Suiwalan 100
Husain, MF 75 Inter State Bus Terminus (ISBT) (Delhi)
Hauz-i-Shamsi (Mehrauli) 114
Hyderabad House (Delhi) 75 290
Havelis 33
Hyenas 215 International Film Festival 124
Painted havelis of Shekhawati 216
International Tourist Bureau (Delhi)
Havelock Memorial Church (Agra) I 289
157 Ibn Batuta 113 International Travel House 293
Hawa Mahal (Fatehpur Sikri) 176 Ibrahim Kothi (Pataudi) 121 International Triennale Exhibition 80
Hawa Mahal (Jaipur) 11, 15, 182, 189, Ibrahim Lodi 56, 110, 144 International Yoga Week (Rishikesh)
190 Ibrahim Shah Sur 144 45, 268
Hazarilal 100 Id-ul-Fitr 41 Internet 284, 285
Hazrat Nizamuddin Railway Station Idgah Bus Stop (Agra) 290, 291 Iron pillar (Qutb complex, Delhi) 102,
(Delhi) 288 The IIC Experience 44 116
Head Studys (Tagore) 37 Illbert Bill 61 Isfahani, Abdullah 195
Health 278–81 Iltutmish 54, 55, 114, 116, 118, 224 Ishwar Lat (Jaipur) 188
Heat, health issues 280 tomb (Mehrauli) 117 ISKCON Temple (Brindavan) 167
Heli-tourism 267, 269 Immigration certificate 287 Islam see Muslims
Hemant 41 Immunization 279 Islamic architecture 30
Hepatitis A and B 281 Income Tax Department 287 Islamic art 226
Herbal products 263 Incredible India 273 ITC Hotels 232, 235
Heritage hotels 236–7 Independence Day 43 ITC Sangeet Sammelan (Delhi) 42
Heritage Hotels Assocation of India Indergarh 227 Itimad-ud-Daulah’s Tomb (Agra) 11,
233, 235 India Gate (Delhi) 10, 12, 61, 71, 72, 57, 162–3
Herons 120 75, 107, 126 Itineraries 10–15
Hertz car rentals 293 India Habitat Centre (Delhi) 124, 125 A Day in Agra 11
Hessing, John 156, 157 India International Centre (Delhi) 124, A Day in Jaipur 11
Hill Fort (Kesroli) 237 125 A Family Day Out in Delhi 10
Hillary, Edmund 64 India International Trade Fair (Delhi) Museums and Shopping in Delhi
Himalayan River Runners (Delhi) 269 44, 89 10–11
Himalayas 24, 138, 266, 268 India Today 285 Three Days in Delhi 12–13
Hindi 273 India Tourism Development Two Days in Agra 14
phrase book 312 Corporation (ITDC) 233 Two Days in Jaipur 15
Hindola Gate (Gwalior) 178 India Trade Promotion Organization
Hindu astrology 148 89 J
Hindu Shahis 53 Indian Board for Wildlife 227 Jackal 215
Hinduism 22, 26, 119 Indian Council Act (ASI) 1861 60 Jacob, Sir Samuel Swinton 156, 198,
festivals 40 Indian Council for Cultural Relations 199
gods and goddesses 28–9 (ICCR) 124 Jagat Shiromani Temple (Amber) 207
rise of 47 Indian Crafts Gallery (Agra) 261 Jahan e Khusrau (Delhi) 42
Hindustan Times 285 Indian elephants 24 Jahanara Begum 85, 86, 94, 154, 155
Hindustani classical music 34, 264 Indian Express building (Delhi) 101 Jahangir, Mughal emperor 56, 154,
Hiran Minar (Fatehpur Sikri) 176 Indian food, glossary of 248–9 160, 162, 164, 177, 180, 195, 210,
Hissar 144 Indian Institute of Technology (IIT) 213, 222, 225
History 46–65 (Roorkee) 147 Jahangiri Mahal (Agra Fort) 154
Hiuen Tsang 51 Indian Mountaineering Foundation Jahangiri Mahal (Orchha) 180–81
Hodson, Lieutenant 101 (Delhi) 268, 269 Jahangiri Mahal Museum (Orchha)
Holi 40, 42, 167 Indian Mutiny (Great Revolt of 1857) 180
Holika 40 58, 59, 105, 146, 151, 179 Jahanpanah (Delhi) 103, 111, 113
Holy Trinity 28–9 Mutiny Memorial (Delhi) 107 Jahaz Mahal (Mehrauli) 44, 114
Home Rule League 62 Indian National Congress see Jai Club (Delhi) 266, 269
Horse riding 267 Congress Party Jai Mandir (Amber) 204, 206
Hospitals 278–9 Indian pine (chir) 24 Jai Niwas Bagh (Jaipur) 186
GENERAL INDEX 301
Jai Prakash Yantra (Delhi) 81 Johari Bazaar (Jaipur) 189, 261 Ketu 144
Jai Prakash Yantra (Jaipur) 197 John Brothers (Delhi) 122, 123 Khadi 82
Jai Singh I 195, 204, 211 Jones, William 59 Khadi Ghar (Jaipur) 261
Jai Singh II 186, 188, 192 Jorawar Singh Gate (Gaitor) 203 Khair-ul-Manazil (Delhi) 85, 89
Jai Van 203 Jugal Kishore Temple (Brindavan) 167 Khajanewalon ka Rasta (Jaipur) 261
Jai Vilas Palace (Gwalior) 178 Juneja Art Gallery (Jaipur) 261 Khajuraho temples 53
Jaigarh 202, 203, 204, 207 Khalsa 27, 42
Jain, OP 118 K Khan, Amjad Ali 34
Jain votive plaque (Mathura) 78 Kachhawahas 183, 194, 201, 202, 204, Khan, Chenghiz 54
Jainism 27, 208 206, 208, 210 Khan, Dr Sahib 83
Digambaras 27 Kachi-ki-Sarai 164 Khan, Ghazi-ud-Din 100
Svetambaras 27 Kadamba (Anthocephatus cadamba) Khan, Iqbal 110
Tirthankaras 208, 223 25 Khan, Isa 87
Jaipur 138, 186–203 Kagazi Mohalla (Sanganer) 209 Khan, Nawab Faiz Ali 190
Badi Chaupar street-by-street 188–9 Kair (Capparis decidua) 215 Khan Abdul Ghaffar Khan 83
building of 187 Kairali Health Resort (Delhi) 268, 269 Khan-i-Jahan Junan Shah 100, 113
A Day in Jaipur 11 Kakod Fort 227 Khan Market (Delhi) 11, 13, 83, 122,
food and drink 245 Kala Hanumanji 203 123
hotels 241 Kala Pani 62 Khari Baoli 96, 97
jewellery 191 Kalan Masjid (Delhi) 100 Khas Mahal (Agra Fort) 154
restaurants 255–7 Kalbelia 264 Khas Mahal (Red Fort) 99
shopping 260 Kali 29, 119 Kheri Gate (Amber) 207
Two Days in Jaipur 15 Kalidasa 50 Khilji, Alauddin 55, 110, 111, 112, 116,
Jaipur and environs 182–229 Kalinga War 50 227
exploring Jaipur and environs Kaliyamardan Krishna (Chola Bronze) Khiljis 54
184–5 78 Khirkee 100, 113
hotels 240–41 Kalkaji Temple (Delhi) 119 Khuni Darwaza (Delhi) 101
restaurants 255–7 Kamagata Maru 62 Khusrau, Amir 55, 85, 86
Jaipur House (Delhi) 75 Kamala (Delhi) 123 Khwabgah (Fatehpur Sikri) 174, 176
Jaipur Literature Festival 45 Kamani Auditorium (Delhi) 80, 124 Khwabgah (Red Fort) 99
Jaipur Rugs 261 Kamaraj, Nadar 73 Kikar 108
Jaipur Vision 264 Kamasutra 51 Kimkhabs 194
Jal Mahal (Narnaul) 144 Kamsa 165, 166 Kinari Bazaar (Agra) 155, 261
Jal Mahal (near Jaipur) 203 Kanak Vrindavan Temple (near Jaipur) Kinari Bazaar (Delhi) 94, 97
Jalan haveli (Fatehpur) 217 203 King cobra 25
Jaleb Chowk (Amber) 206 Kanch Mahal (Sikandra) 164 Kingfishers 120
Jamali-Kamali Mosque and Tomb Kanchana Ghat (Orchha) 180 Kingsway (Delhi) 71
(Mehrauli) 115 Kanishka 50, 51, 165 Kishangarh 219
Jama’t Khana Mosque (Delhi) 86 Kannauj 52 hotels 241
Jamawar shawl 79 Kans Qila (Mathura) 165 Kishangarh, Maharaja of 236
Jami Masjid (Agra) 155 Kantha embroidery 79 Kishangarh School of Painting 219
Jami Masjid (Delhi) 12, 19, 68, 92, 93, Kanu Carpet Factory (Agra) 261 Kishanpol Bazaar (Jaipur) 261
95, 96 Kanvinde, Achyut 89 Koh-i-Noor (Agra) 261
Jami Masjid (Fatehpur Sikri) 177 Karbala 40 Koran 26, 41, 54, 77
Jami Masjid (Jaipur) 189 Kargil 65 Koran-e-Kamal 226
Jami Masjid (Mathura) 165 Karim’s (Delhi) 94, 251 Kos minar 144, 152
Jami Masjid (Meerut) 146 Karnal 100, 107 Kosi 166
Jami Masjid (Saharanpur) 147 Karnataka 91 Kotwali 96
Janata Party 64, 65 Kartik 221 Krishna 29, 40, 41, 145, 165, 166
Janmashtami 41, 43, 167, 186 Kaserat Bazaar (Agra) 155 Krishna Cult 22, 144, 166, 167
Janpath (Delhi) 71, 75, 81, 82, 122 Kashmir 50, 65, 104 Krishna Katha 43
Jantar Mantar (Delhi) 81 Kashmiri Bazaar (Agra) 155 Krishna Museum (Kurukshetra) 144
Jantar Mantar (Jaipur) 11, 15, 188, Kashmiri Gate (Delhi), street-by-street Krshna revealing his Divinity as Visnu
196–7 104–5 to his parents 36–7
Japan Airlines 286, 287 Kasumbhil 110 Kuanwalji (Lord Shiva) 227
Jas Mandir (Amber) 204, 206 Katcheri Bagh (Bharatpur) 170 Kubera 76
Jawahar Burj (Bharatpur) 170 Kathak 35, 124, 264 Kufic script 77, 222
Jawahar Kala Kendra (Jaipur) 199, Kathak Bindadin Mahotsav (Delhi) 45 Kumar, Ram 75
264, 265 Kathak Kendra 45 Kumbh Mela 139, 148
Jawahar Mela 168 Kathak Utsav (Delhi) 44 Kundankari 191
Jawaharlal Nehru Stadium (Delhi) 266 Kathakali 124 Kuru tribe 144
Jawahir Singh 167 Katra Neel 97 Kurukshetra 144, 145, 213
Jeep and desert safaris 267 Katras 97 Kushak Mahal 82
Jet Airways 286, 287 Kaudiyala 149 Kushak-i-Shikar 107
JetLite 286, 287 Kauravas 144, 145, 213 Kushanas 21, 47, 50, 76, 165
Jewellery 191 Kayaking 269 Kusum Sarovar 166
shopping 261, 262 Kedarnath, Raja 119 Kutch 90
Jews 27 Kennedy, Jacqueline 199
Jhansi 179 Keoladeo Ghana National Park 14, L
Jhor 171 151, 172–3 Lachhmangarh 217
Jinnah, MA 63 Kerala 91 Ladliji Temple (Barsana) 166
Jodha Bai’s Palace (Fatehpur Sikri) 176 Kesar Kyari Bagh (Amber) 206 Laghu Samrat Yantra (Jaipur) 196
Jogi Mahal (Ranthambhore) 228 Keshav Bhavan (Deeg Water Palace) Lahiri, Jhumpa 65
Jogmaya Temple (Mehrauli) 44, 117 168 Lahore Gate (Delhi) 32, 95, 98
Johari Bazaar (Agra) 155, 261 Keshi Ghat (Brindavan) 167 Lajpat Nagar (Delhi) 122
302 GENERAL INDEX
Lake, Lord 170 Malachite 160 Maues 50

Lakshman 41 Malaria 280–81 Maulana Abul Kalam Azad Arabic and
Lakshman Jhula 149 Mamluk dynasty 54 Persian Research Institute (Tonk)
Lakshmi 28, 41 Man Mandir (Gwalior) 178 226
Lakshmi Narayan Mandir (Delhi) 81 Man Sagar 203 Mauryan dynasty 47, 49, 50
Lakshmi Narayan Temple (Jaipur) 198 Man Singh I 53, 166, 178, 191, 195, Max Medcentre (Delhi) 279
Lal Darwaza (Delhi) 88 203, 204, 206, 207, 208 Max Mueller Bhavan (Delhi) 124, 125
Lal Kot (Delhi) 103, 114 Man Singh II 198, 199, 203 Mayo, Lord 223
Lal Kuan Bazaar (Delhi) 100 Mandalas 166 Mayo College (Ajmer) 223
Lalit Kala Akademi (Delhi) 80 Mandawa 15, 217 Mazar Sharif (Ajmer) 224
Landscape 24–5 hotels 236, 241 Medd, Henry Alexander 75
Langas 265 restaurants 257 Media 284–5
Language 273 Mandi House Complex (Delhi) 80 Medical facilities 278–9
phrase book 312 Mangala Devi Temple (Bhangarh) 213 Meena Bazaar (Agra Fort) 154
Lanka 41 Manganiyars 265 Meena tribe 201, 202
Laxmi Bai 151, 179 Mango Festival (Delhi) 43 Meenakari 191, 260
Laxmi Niwas 203 Mangoes 147 Meerut 107, 141, 146
Laxmi Vilas Palace (Bharatpur) 237 Maniharon ka Rasta (Jaipur) 261 restaurants 255
Leather 122, 123 Mansa Devi Temple (Hardiwar) 148 Megasthenes 49
Lectures and discussions, Delhi 125 Mansabdar 57 Mehfil Khana (Ajmer) 224
Left luggage 289 Mansarovar Lake 227 Mehmankhana (Lodi Gardens) 83
Legal assistance 279 Mansingh Stadium (Jaipur) 266 Mehrauli (Delhi) 12, 117, 122
Legislative Assembly (Delhi) 106 Mansur 36 Mehrauli Archaeological Park (Delhi)
Lehenga 34 Mant, Charles 223 103, 114–15
Lentils 249 Maota Lake (Amber) 204, 206 Menander 50
Linga 96 Maps Meningitis 281
Literature, contemporary 65 Agra: City Centre 155 Menon, Anjolie Ela 75
Lodi dynasties 83 Agra and Around 152–3 Mercury Travels 291
Lodi Estate 83 Ajmer 223 Mesopotamia 48
Lodi Gardens (Delhi) 11, 13, 83 Beyond Delhi at a Glance 138–9 Metalwork 262
Lodis 54, 55, 114 Delhi: Around Kashmiri Gate street- Metcalfe, Sir Thomas 106
Lohagarh Fort (Bharatpur) 170 by-street 104–5 Metcalfe House (Delhi) 106
Lohri 40, 44 Delhi: Around Vijay Chowk street- Metro (Delhi) 294
Lok Sabha 74 by-street 72–3 map 295
Lost and stolen property 278 Delhi: At a Glance 68–9 to/from airport 287
Lotus 39 Delhi: Chandni Chowk street-by- Milad-ul-Nabi 40
Lotus Garden (Johr) 171 street 94–5 Mildenhall, John 156
Lotus Pool (Taj Mahal) 159 Delhi: City Centre 18–19 Milestones 268
Lotus Temple (Delhi) 13, 66–7, 119 Delhi: Delhi City Map see inside Mina Masjid (Agra Fort) 14, 154
Lunar calendar 40 back cover Miniature painting 260
Lutyens, Edwin Landseer 31, 72, 74, Delhi: Further Afield 103 Ministry of Environment & Forests
171 Delhi: Greater Delhi 18 272, 275
Luxury hotels 232 Delhi: Metro 295 Ministry of Foreign Affairs 74
Delhi: Nizamuddin to Purana Qila Ministry of Home Affairs 272, 275
M 85 Mir Qamar-ud-Din 100
Machchhi Bhavan (Agra Fort) 14, 154 Delhi: Old Delhi 93 Mira Bai 207
Machkund 171 Delhi: Street Finder 126–35 Mirak Mirza Ghiyas 87
Madan Mohan Temple (Brindavan) Jaipur: Badi Chaupar street-by- Miran Sayyid Hussain 222
167 street 188–9 Mirza Ghiyath Beg 162
Madhavendra Bhavan (Nahargarh) Jaipur and Environs 184–5 Mirza Ulugh Beg 196
202 Nizamuddin Complex (Delhi) 86 Misra Yantra (Delhi) 81
Madhi Masjid (Mehrauli) 114 North of Delhi 142–3 Missionaries of Charity 106
Madho Singh I 188, 203, 213, 226 Orchha Plan 181 Mithi Id 41
Madho Singh II 192, 193, 197, 199, Pushkar street-by-street 200–201 Miyan Bhuwa 110
202, 203 Putting Delhi, Agra and Jaipur on Mobile phones 284, 285
Madhubani painting 91 the Map 16–17 Mohammad, Prophet 26
Maffi, Bernardino 157 road map of Delhi, Agra and Jaipur Mohenjodaro 76, 78
Mahabharata 51, 81, 88, 141, 144, see inside back cover Mojari (Jaipur) 261
145, 213, 226 Marathas 58, 144, 154 Money 282–3
Mahal Khas (Bharatpur) 170 Marble inlay see Pietra Dura Mongols 47, 54
Maham Anga 89, 117 Mariam Zamani’s Tomb (Sikandra) Monkeys
Maharaja Exports (Agra) 261 164 langur 24, 214
Maharaja Sawai Man Singh II Markets rhesus 24
Museum see City Palace Museum Delhi 122 Monsoon 43
Maharana Pratap Inter State Bus food stalls 243 Monsoon architecture 169
Terminal (Delhi) 290, 291 see also Bazaars Montagu-Chelmsford Reforms
Maharani ki Chhatri (Gaitor) 203 Marsh crocodiles 229 (1919) 74
Mahatma Gandhi Park (Delhi) 96 MASTA (Medical Advisory Service for Moosi Maharani ki Chhatri
Mahavira 27, 208 Travellers Abroad, UK) 278, 279, 281 (Alwar) 210
Mahesh Yogi 148 MasterCard 282 Mortenepus, Khoja 156
Mahishasura 29, 227 Mathura 14, 21, 22, 48, 49, 51, 78, 151, Mosquitoes 281
Mahmud of Ghazni 54 165, 264, 265 Moth ki Masjid (Delhi) 110
Makar Sankranti 40, 45 hotels 240 Mother Teresa 106
Makhdum Shah Wilayat 146 Mathura School of Art 50–51, 165 Moti Burj (Jaipur) 187
Makrana 218 Matka Pir 85, 89 Moti Doongri (Jaipur) 198
GENERAL INDEX 303
Moti Doongri Palace (Alwar) 211 Muslims 26 Naturopathy 268

Moti Mahal (Gwalior) 46 festivals 40–41 Natya Shastra 35
Moti Masjid (Agra Fort) 154 Shias 26 Naubat Khana (Fatehpur Sikri) 176
Moti Masjid (Mehrauli) 117 Sunnis 26 Nauchandi Mela 42
Moti Masjid (Red Fort) 98 Mutiny Memorial (Delhi) 107 Navaratna 53
Motilal Banarsidas (Delhi) 123 Navaratri 40, 41
Mountbatten, Lord Louis 63, 107 N Navy Day 70
Mrignayani 178 Nadir Shah 58, 93, 94, 96 Nawab Saheb ki Haveli (Jaipur) 190
Mubarak Mahal (Jaipur) 192, 194, 195 Nag kings 179 Nawalgarh 217
Mughal architecture 31, 163 Nagina Masjid (Agra Fort) 154 hotels 241
Mughal art 56, 79 Nagina Masjid (Fatehpur Sikri) 176 restaurants 257
Mughal dynasty 20, 47, 52, 56–7, 58 Nagphas 210 Neem (Azadirachta indica) 25
Mughal Gardens (Delhi) 74 Nahar Singh 202 Neemrana Fort Palace 236, 241
Mughal Marble Swing (Deeg Water Nahargarh 15, 202 Neemrana Shop (Delhi) 123
Palace) 168 Nai ki Mandi (Agra) 261 Neerja International (Jaipur) 261
Mughal miniature paintings 36, 76, Nai Sarak 97 Nehru Bazaar (Jaipur) 261
194, 198 Naidu, Sarojini 62 Nehru, Jawaharlal 26, 63, 64, 65,
Muhammad Shah 81, 106, 109, 187 Naika (Jaipur) 261 82, 117
tomb of 83 Najaf Khan 146 private collection 82
Muhammad-bin-Tughlaq 111, 112, Nakul 213 Nehru family 64
113, 119, 147 Namazgah (Jami Masjid, Nehru Memorial Museum and Library
Muhammed Ghori 47, 54, 210 Fatehpur Sikri) 177 (Delhi) 10, 82
Muharram 40 Nand 166 Nehru Planetarium (Delhi) 82, 267, 269
Mukherjee, Neel 65 Nand Bhavan (Deeg Water Nepal 78
Muller, AH 194 Palace) 168 New Delhi 70–83
Multan 118 Nandgaon 166 Around Vijay Chowk street-by-street
Mumbai see Bombay Nandi 29 72–3
Mumtaz Mahal 139, 154, 158 Naqqar Khana 98 hotels 238
Muni-ki-Reti (Rishikesh) 148 Narada 28 map 71
Munjeeta Travel 233, 235 Narain Niwas Palace (Jaipur) 236 restaurants 250–51
Munshi Ganeshi Lal & Son (Agra) 261 Narasing Dev 207 New Delhi Railway Station 288, 289
Musamman Burj (Agra Fort) 14, 154 Narcotics 273, 279 New year’s eve 41, 44
Museums and galleries Narivalaya Yantra (Jaipur) 196 Newspapers and magazines 285
Archaeological Museum (Gwalior) Narmada Bachao activists 65 shops 123
178 Narmada Dam 65 Nicholson, General John 106
Archaeological Museum (Jaipur) Narnaul 141, 144 Nicholson Cemetery (Delhi) 106
190 Narsimha Temple (Amber) 207 Nidhivana 167
City Palace Museum (Alwar) 13, 210 Nasik 148 Nightlife
City Palace Museum (Jaipur) 11, Nasiruddin 86 Agra and Jaipur 265
192–5 Nasiruddin Mahmud 112 Delhi 125
Crafts Museum (Delhi) 11, 90–91 Nasiyan Temple (Ajmer) 222–3 Nikumbh Mahal (Alwar) 210
Gandhi National Museum (Delhi) National Archives 75 Nikumbh Rajputs 210
101 National Film Festival (Delhi) 42–3 Nilgai (Blue Bull) 173
Gandhi Smriti (Delhi) 82 National Gallery of Modern Art Nili Masjid 110
Government Central Museum (Delhi) 12, 75, 125 Nizam Gate (Ajmer) 225
(Jaipur) 198 National holidays 43 Nizam of Hyderabad 224
Government Museum (Ajmer) 222 National Museum (Delhi) 10, 12, 68, Nizamuddin Auliya 26, 42, 55,
Government Museum (Mathura) 76–9 85, 86, 112
165 Ancient and Medieval Sculpture 78 Dargah (Delhi) 86, 118
Jahangiri Mahal Museum (Orchha) Bronze 78 Nizamuddin Complex (Delhi) 84,
180 Central Asian Antiquities 79 85, 86
Jawahar Kala Kendra (Jaipur) 199 Coins and Scripts 76 Nizamuddin to Purana Qila (Delhi)
Kitchen Museum (Delhi) 74 Decorative Arts 79 84–91
Krishna Museum and Gita Research Floor Plan 76–7 area map 85
Centre (Kurukshetra) 144 Gallery Guide 77 hotels 238
Maulana Abul Kalam Azad Arabic Indian Miniatures 79 restaurants 251
and Persian Research Institute Indus Valley Culture 78 Non-cooperation Movement 62
(Tonk) 226 Manuscripts and Wall Paintings 78 Norgay, Tenzing 64
Museum of Indology (Jaipur) 198 Textiles, Arms, Armour and Musical North of Delhi 140–49
National Gallery of Modern Art Instruments 79 Exploring North of Delhi 142–3
(Delhi) 12, 75 National parks hotels 239
National Museum (Delhi) 10, 12, accommodation 234, 235 restaurants 253
76–9 Keoladeo Ghana National Park 14, shopping 260
National Rail Museum (Delhi) 10, 13, 151, 172–3 North-West Frontier Province
108–9 Ranthambhore National Park 15, (Pakistan) 75, 83
Nehru Memorial Museum and 226, 227, 228–9 Northern Railway 288, 289
Library (Delhi) 10, 82 Sariska National Park 214–15 Northern Railways Office 105
Purana Quila Museum (Delhi) 88 National Rail Museum (Delhi) 10, 13, Northern Ridge (Delhi) 107
Sanskriti (Delhi) 118 108–9 Nur Jahan 57, 154, 162
Scindia Museum (Gwalior) 178 National School of Drama (Delhi) 43,
State Museum (Bharatpur) 170 80, 124 O
Music 34–5, 264 National Science Centre (Delhi) 89, Oberoi Group 232, 235
Delhi 124, 125 267, 269 Oberoi Maidens Hotel (Delhi) 106
shops 123 National Stadium (Delhi) 72 Odissi 124
Muslim League 62, 63 National Theatre Festival 124 Okhla Barrage 269
304 GENERAL INDEX
Old Delhi 92–101 Pandupol Temple (Sariska Politics 64–5

area map 93 National Park) 214 Polo 199, 267
bazaars 97 Panipat 107, 141, 143, 144, 260 Polo, Marco 55
hotels 239 Panipat, Battle of 58 Polo Bar (Jaipur) 265
restaurants 251 Panna Mian ka Kund (Amber) 207 Population
Street-by-Street 94–5 Panni Gali (Agra) 155 Delhi 23
Old Delhi GPO 105 Paradise Garden 171 India 22, 64
Old Delhi Railway Station (Delhi) Paramars 53 Porters, railway 289
288, 289 Parampara Festival 44 Postal services 284–5
Old Secretariat (Delhi) 106 Parikh Nursing Home (Agra) 279 Pottery 38, 262
Onam 41 Parking 292–3 Jaipur Blue Pottery 208, 260, 261
Open-bill stork 172 Parks and gardens Pragati Maidan (Delhi) 44, 85, 89, 124
Opening hours 273 Aram Bagh (Amber) 206 Pratap Singh 106, 210, 212
banks 282 Buddha Jayanti Park (Delhi) 108 Prices
shops and markets 258 Central Park (Delhi) 81 airlines 287
Orchha 139, 151, 179, 180–81 Coronation Park (Delhi) 75 hotels 234
hotels 240 Dilaram Bagh (Amber) 206 restaurants 243
plan 181 Government Botanical Gardens taxis 295
restaurants 255 (Saharanpur) 147 trains 288
Oswal Emporium (Agra) 261 Jai Niwas Bagh (Jaipur) 186 Prime Minister’s Office (Delhi) 72
Oudh 59 Kesar Kyari Bagh (Amber) 206 Prinsep, James 101
Outdoor activities 266–9 Lodi Gardens (Delhi) 11, 13, 83 Pritam Chowk (Jaipur) 192
Lotus Garden (Johr) 171 Prithvi Theatre Festival (Delhi) 44
P Mahatma Gandhi Park (Delhi) 96 Project Tiger 227, 228
Pachikari 160 Mehrauli Archaeological Park Protestant missionaries 27
Pachisi Court (Fatehpur Sikri) (Delhi) 103, 114–15 Public conveniences 273
175, 176 Mughal Gardens (Delhi) 74 Public holidays 43
Package tours, bus 290–91 Paradise Garden 171 Public transport, city 294–5
Packing 274 Qudsia Gardens (Delhi) 106 Pundarik, Pandit Ratnakar 202
Pahari paintings 37 Ram Niwas Gardens (Jaipur) 198 Pundarik ki Haveli (Brahmpuri) 202
Painted stork 25, 120, 173 Rambagh (Agra) 162 Puppet shows 265
Painting 36–7 Sisodia Rani ka Bagh 200 Purana Qila (Delhi) 19, 85, 88, 111
Company School of Painting 37 Vidyadhar ka Bagh (near Jaipur) 200 Purana Quila Museum (Delhi) 88
Contemporary Indian art 37 Parliament House 63, 72, 74 Purjan Vihar (Alwar) 211
Mughal paintings 36, 79 Parshuram Temple 220 Purnanand Ashram (Rishikesh) 148
Pahari paintings 37, 79 Parsis 27 Pushkar 183, 220–21
Rajput paintings 36, 37, 79 Parthians 47 hotels 241
shopping for paintings 261 Partition of India 22, 63 restaurants 257
Pakistan 21, 26, 63 Parvati 29, 42, 43 Street-by-Street 220–21
Palace on Wheels 289 Pashminas 122 Pushkar Fair 41, 44, 184, 220, 221,
Palaces Passports 272, 275 234, 265
architecture 32 Patachitra 145 Pushkar Lake 220
Bagru 208 Pataudi 120, 121
Chandra Mahal (Jaipur) 15, 186, 192, Patil, Prathiba 65 Q
193, 194, 202, 216 Patna 48 Qalandar Shah’s dargah (Panipat) 144
City Palace (Alwar) 13, 210 Pax Britannica 60–61 Qawwalis 34, 224, 264
City Palace (Jaipur) 11, 15, 192–5 Paying guests 233, 235 Qila Rai Pithora (Delhi) 103, 111, 114
Deeg Water Palace 167, 168–9 Peacock Throne 99, 154 Qila-I-Kuhna Mosque (Delhi) 88
Dilkusha Kothi (Sardhana) 146 Pelicans 120 Qudsia Begum 106
Feroze Shah Kotla (Delhi) 101, 266 People 22–3 Qudsia Gardens (Delhi) 106
Hawa Mahal (Jaipur) 11, 15, 182, Peregrine falcon 172 Queen Mary’s Library (Agra) 157
189, 190 Performing arts 34–5 Quilts 122, 123
Ibrahim Kothi (Pataudi) 121 Performing arts centres 265 Quit India Movement 63
Jahangiri Mahal (Orchha) 180–81 Perron, General 157 Quli Khan, Shah 144
Jal Mahal (Narnaul) 144 Persia 27 Qutb Complex (Delhi) 54–5, 102,
Jal Mahal (near Jaipur) 203 Persian wheel 54 116–17, 222
Moti Doongri (Jaipur) 198 Personal security 278–9 Qutb Festival (Delhi) 44
Narain Niwas Palace (Jaipur) 236 Petrol 293 Qutb Minar (Delhi) 12, 103, 113, 114,
Neemrana Fort Palace 236, 241 Phad 53 115, 116–17
Phool Mahal (Kishangarh) 219 Pharmacies 278–9 Qutb Sahib 114
Rai Praveen Mahal (Orccha) 180 Philip, Prince 199 dargah of (Mehrauli) 117
Raj Mahal (Orccha) 180 Phool Mahal (Kishangarh) 219 Qutbuddin Aibak 54, 55, 111, 114,
Raj Mahal Palace (Jaipur) 199 Phoolwalon ki Sair (Delhi) 44, 114, 116, 222
Rajgarh Palace (Datia) 178 117 Qutbuddin Bakhtiyar Kaki 44, 117
Rambagh Palace (Jaipur) 11, 199 Phrase book 312 Quwwat-ul-Islam Mosque (Delhi)
Samode Palace 32, 216, 236, 241 Pichhwai 260 54–5, 117, 222
Sariska Palace 214 Pietra dura 39, 159, 160, 161, 163, 209,
Siliserh Palace 212 260 R
Uniara Palace 227 Pipal tree (Ficus religiosa) 25 Rabab 34
Vijay Mandir Palace 211 Pir Ghaib 107 Rabies 281
Palas of Bengal 52 Pishtaq 159 Rabindra Bhavan (Delhi) 80
Panch Mahal (Fatehpur Sikri) Places of worship 276–7 Radha 166, 167, 219
175 Plassey, Battle of 58 Radha Raman Temple (Brindavan)
Pandavas 88, 144, 145 Poddar haveli (Nawalgarh) 217 167
in exile 213 Police 278, 279 Radhakund 167
GENERAL INDEX 305
Radio 285 Rashivalaya Yantra (Jaipur) 197 Salar Masa-ud Ghazi’s maqbara
Radisson 232, 235 Rashtrapati Bhavan (Delhi) 68, 72, (Meerut) 146
Rafting 269 74, 76 Salim Mahal (Alwar) 210
Raga 55, 79 Raslila 34 Salim’s Paper (Sanganer) 261
Raga Todi 35 Ratan Textiles (Jaipur) 261 Sambar 24, 228
Ragamala 35, 36, 79 Rathors 183, 202, 219 Sambhar Salt Lake 218
Rahu 144 Raushan Chiragh-i-Dehlvi 112 Samode 216
Rai Pithora 52 Ravana 41, 44, 201 hotels 241
Rai Praveen Mahal (Orchha) 180 Ravindra Manch (Jaipur) 264, 265 Samode Bagh 216
Rail travel 288–9 Ravissant (Delhi) 122, 123 Samode Palace 32, 216, 236, 241
Rail Yatri Niwas 289 Ray, Satyajit 265 Samrat Yantra (Delhi) 81
Railways, construction of 61 Razia, Sultana 54 Samrat Yantra (Jaipur) 197
Rainfall chart 44 grave of 100 Samudragupta 51
Raisina Hill 65, 68, 72, 74 Red Fort (Delhi) 12, 32, 43, 69, 93, 96, Sanganer 15, 185, 194, 200, 208, 260
Raj 60–61 98–9 Sanganeri motifs 209
Raj Mahal Palace (Jaipur) 199 plan 99 Sangeet Natak Akademi (Delhi) 80
Raj Mandir (Jaipur) 265 Reinhardt, Walter 146, 156 Sanghi Jutharam Temple (Amber)
Raja ki Mandi (Agra) 156 Religions 21–2, 23, 26–7 207
Rajamal ka Talab (Jaipur) 187 gods and goddesses 28–9 Sanghiji Temple (Sanganer) 208
Rajasthali (Jaipur) 261 religious symbols 28 Sangin Burj (Fatehpur Sikri) 176
Rajasthan 183 Remembrance Day 108 Sangram Singh, Maharana 79
Rajasthan Polo Club 267, 269 Republic Day Parade 45, 64–5, 71, 75 Sanjay Talkies (Agra) 265
Rajasthan State Handloom Dev. Corp. Responsible tourism 275 Sanjhi craft 167
Ltd. (Jaipur) 261 Restaurants 242–57 Sannahit Sarovar (Kurukshetra) 144
Rajasthan State Road Transport 290, coffee shops 242 Sansad Bhavan (Delhi) 72, 74
291 eating Indian-style 277 Sansar Chand, Raja 37
Rajasthan Tourism (RTDC) 233, 235, Flavours of Delhi, Agra and Jaipur Sanskrit 50
269, 273, 275 244–5 Sanskriti (Museum) 118
Rajbagh (Ranthambhore) 228 Flavours of the Tandoor 246–7 Santos, Father 157
Rajbagh Talao (Ranthambhore) 228 glossary of typical Indian food Santushti (Delhi) 10, 122
Rajendra Pol (Jaipur) 192 248–9 Sarai Kale Khan (Delhi) 290, 291
Rajgarh 212 prices and tipping 243 Sarai Rohilla Railway Station (Delhi)
Rajgarh Palace (Datia) 178 speciality restaurants 242 288, 289
Rajghat 101 vegetarian 243 Saraswati 28
Rajiv Chowk (Delhi) 80 Rewal, Raj 89 Sardhana 141, 143, 146
Rajon ki Baoli (Mehrauli) 115 Rickshaws 294–5 Sariska 213, 268
Rajpath (Delhi) 10, 12, 45, 65, 71, 72, The Ridge (Delhi) 103, 107, 108 hotels 241
74, 75 Rig Veda 48, 49 Sariska National Park 138, 210, 212,
Rajput art 53 Rishabhdeva 223 214–15
Rajput Bundela architecture 180 Rishikesh 141, 148, 149, 268, 269 Sariska Palace 214
Rajput dynasties 52–3 hotels 239 Saroj Handicrafts and Arts (Jaipur)
Rajput miniature paintings 36, 37, restaurants 253 261
198 River rafting 269 Sarojini Nagar (Delhi) 122
Rajwada Library Bar (Jaipur) 265 Riverine areas 25 Sarus crane 120, 172
Rajya Sabha 74 Road signs and road maps 293 Sas-Bahu ka Mandir (Gwalior) 178
Raksha Bandhan 43 Road travel 292–3 Sati Burj (Mathura) 165
Ram Niwas Bagh (Jaipur) 265 Rock climbing 268 Sati sites 52
Ram Niwas Gardens (Jaipur) 198 Roe, Sir Thomas 222 Satpula 113
Ram Raja (Orchha) 180 Rohilla Fort (Saharanpur) 147 Sattais Katcheri (Amber) 206
Ram Singh II 190, 195, 198, 199, 203 Rolls Royce cars 170 Saurashtra Oriental Arts (Jaipur) 261
Ram Yantra (Delhi) 81 Roman Catholic Cemetery (Agra) 156 Savitri 220
Ram Yantra (Jaipur) 196 Roopangarh Fort 219 Savitri Temple (Pushkar) 220
Rama 29, 41, 44, 201 Roorkee 139, 142, 147 Sawai Jai Singh II 81, 138, 165, 186,
Ramadan (Ramzan) 41 Roshanara 154 187, 194, 195, 196, 198, 199, 200,
Ramakrishna Mission (Delhi) 233, 235 Round Table Conference 62 202, 203
Ramayana 41, 44, 51, 81, 201, 226 Roy, Jamini 75 Sawai Jai Singh Benevolent Trust 199
Rambagh (Agra) 162 Royal Trains 289 Sawai Madho Singh I 195
Rambagh Palace (Jaipur) 11, 199 Rudraman 50 Sawai Madhopur 226–7
Ramdas, Guru 178 Rules of the road 293 hotels 241
Ramganj Bazaar (Jaipur) 261 Russell, Robert Tor 80, 82 Sawai Man Singh Medical College
Ramgarh 201 (Jaipur) 279
Ramgarh Lake 269 S Sawai Pratap Singh 190, 195
Ramlila 34, 41 Sa’adi 210 Sawan Pavilion (Deeg Water Palace)
Ramnavami 40 Sabha Niwas (Jaipur) 193, 194, 195 168
Rana Sanga Roof Top Bar (Jaipur) 265 Safdarjung’s tomb (Delhi) 109 Sawant Singh, Raja 219
Randiyon ka Mahal (Bhangarh) 213 Safety 278–9 Sayyids 54, 55, 83
Rang Mahal (Red Fort) 99 Sagar (Amber) 207 Scindia Museum (Gwalior) 178
Rangaji Temple (Pushkar) 221 Saharanpur 147, 260 Scindias 151, 156, 157, 178
Rangila, Muhammad Shah 85 Sahdev 144, 213 Scott, Alfred 106
Ranthambhore 183 Sahitya Akademi (Delhi) 80 Scott, Ida 106
Ranthambhore Fort 228 St John’s College (Agra) 156 Scythians 47
Ranthambhore National Park 15, 226, St Stephen’s College (Delhi) 107 Secretariat Buildings (Delhi) 74
227, 228–9 St Thomas 27, 50 Self-drive 293
Rao, Narasimha 65 St Thomas’s Church (Saharanpur) 147 Senior travellers 274, 275
Rao Shekha 217 Sal tree (Shorea robusta) 24 Sepoys 59
306 GENERAL INDEX
Serindian collection (National Shops and markets (cont.) Sri Ranganathji (Brindavan) 166
Museum) 76 rights and refunds 259 Stanfords 292, 293
Shah Jahan, Mughal emperor 57, 93, shoes 261 State Bank of India (Delhi) 258
96, 98, 111, 139, 154, 155, 157, 158, tea and spices 261 State government-run buses 290
162, 195, 211, 223, 224, 226 textiles 261 State Museum (Bharatpur) 170
court 57 what to buy 262–3 State tourism departments 274
Shah Nazar Khan 156 Shree (Agra) 265 The Statesman 45
Shah Pir’s Maqbara (Meerut) 146 Shree Ganpati Arts (Jaipur) 261 Statue Circle (Jaipur) 199
Shahi chirag 155 Shri Ganesha (Ranthambhore) 227 Steakhouse (Delhi) 123
Shahjahanabad 57, 93, 96, 100, 111 Shri Ram Centre (Delhi) 124 Stein, Joseph Allen 89
Shahjahani Masjid (Ajmer) 224 Shriram Bharatiya Kala Kendra 44 Stein, Sir Aurel 76, 79
Shahji Temple (Brindavan) 167 Shyam Ahuja (Delhi) 122, 123 Serindian collection 76
Shahpur Jat (Delhi) 112, 122 Shyam ki Burj (Jaipur) 187 Steppe eagle 172
Shakti 52 Siberian crane 172 Stepwells 33, 80, 115, 206, 216
Shankar, Ravi 34 Sikandar Lodi 110, 113, 164 Stomach upsets 280
Shankaracharya 52 tomb of 83 Stone Age 48
Shankarlal Sangeet Sammelan Sikandra 14, 31, 164 Storks 172
(Delhi) 42 Sikar 217 Street food 243
Shanti Kunj Ashram (Rishikesh) 148 Sikhism 27 Student travellers 274, 275
Sharad 41 festivals 41 Sub-Himalayan region 24
Sharan Rani 79 Siliserh 212 Subhat Niwas (Jaigarh) 203
Shawls 122, 123 Siliserh Lake 212 Subramanyam, KG 75
Sheesh Gumbad 83 Silk Route (Chinese Turkistan) 51, 76, 79 Subz Burj 85
Sheesh Mahal (Agra Fort) 154 Silver Mountain (Jaipur) 261 Sufi 26, 55
Sheesh Mahal (Alwar) 210 Sind 51 Sufi dargah 144
Sheesh Mahal (Amber) 15, 204, 206 Sindhi Camp (Jaipur) 290, 291 Sufi qawwali 264
Sheesh Mahal (Rajgarh) 212 Singh, Gobind 27, 42 Sugar & Spice (Delhi) 83
Sheesh Mahal (Samode) 216, 236 Singh, Ishwari 188 Sukh Kanwar 194
Shekhawati 15, 33, 183, 267 Singh, Jagat 203 Sukh Niwas (Amber) 206
frescoes 216 Singh, Kishan 219 Sukhi Baoli (Mehrauli) 115
tour of 217 Singh, Maharaja Bakhtawar 210 Sulabh shauchalayas (public toilets)
Sher Mandal 88 Singh, VP 65 273
Sher Shah Gate (Lal Darwaza) 88 Singh Manmohan 65 Sultan Ghari (Delhi) 118
Sher Shah Sur 56, 87, 88, 101, 111, Singhania haveli (Fatehpur) 217 Sultan Mahal (Samode) 216
144, 164 Sireh Deori Bazaar (Jaipur) 190 Sultanate architecture 30
Sher Shah’s mosque 88 Siri 103, 110, 111 Sultanpur Bird Sanctuary 120, 268
Sheraton 232, 235 Siri Fort Auditorium (Delhi) 42, 43, Summer 42–3
Shergarh (Delhi) 88, 111 112, 124 Summer Theatre Festival (Delhi) 43
Shergarh Fort (Dholpur) 171 Siri Fort (Delhi) 55, 112 Sundar Horticulture Nursery (Delhi) 85
Shergill, Amitra 37, 75 Sisganj Gurudwara (Delhi) 94, 96 Sundar Nagar Market (Delhi) 85, 122
Shesh Nag 28 Sisodia Rani ka Bagh 200 Sunehra Makan (Fatehpur Sikri) 176
Shiha-bu’d-Din Ahmed Khan 89 Sita 41, 201 Sunehri Bagh (Delhi) 73
Shila Devi 204, 205 Sita World Tours (Delhi) 291 Sunehri Kothi (Tonk) 226
Shila Devi Temple (Amber) 15, 205, 206 Sivanand Ashram (Rishikesh) 148 Sunehri Masjid (Delhi) 94, 96
Shilpi Handicrafts (Sanganer) 261 Sivananda Yoga Vedanta Nataraja Sungas 50
Shishir 40 Centre (Delhi) 268, 269 Sunshine chart 43
Shitala Ashtami 40 Skinner, James 105, 141, 144 Sur dynasty 141
Shitala Devi 40 Skinner’s Horse 105, 144 Sur Sadan (Agra) 264, 265
Shitla Mata 226 Slave dynasty 54 Suraj Bhavan (Deeg Water Palace) 169
Shiv Kumar Sharma 35 Sloth bear 229 Suraj Mal, Raja 167, 168, 170
Shiva 29, 40, 42, 76 Smog 280 Suraj Pol (Amber) 206
Shiva Temple (Moti Doongri, Jaipur) Smoking 277 Surajkund 121
198 Snacks 248 Surajkund Crafts Mela 45, 121
Shivalik Hills 141 Snake bird 172 Surajpal 121
Shivaratri 40, 45 Solani, River 147 Surana Jewellers (Jaipur) 261
Shivpuri 149 Soma Shop (Jaipur) 261 Survey of India 292, 293
Shoosmith, Arthur Gordon 108 Someshwar Temple (Bhangarh) 213 Surya Temple (Galta) 200
The Shop (Delhi) 122, 123 Sonagiri 179 Svarna Nagari Hall (Ajmer) 223
Shops and markets 258–61 South Africa 63 Swami Haridas 167
around Agra 260 South Delhi Swami Shraddhanand’s statue 96
around Jaipur 260 hotels 239 Swimming 266
bargaining 258, 277 restaurants 251 hotel pools 232
books 261 Spear, Percival 107
carpets and dhurries 261 Special interest tours 268 T
Delhi 122–3 Special needs, travellers with 274 Tabla 35
how to pay 258 Speciality shops, Delhi 123 Tadolini of Rome 146
jewellery 261 Spectator sports 266 Tagore, Abanindranath 75
marble inlay 261 SpiceJet 286, 287 Tagore, Rabindranath 37, 62, 75
Museums and Shopping in Delhi Spier, Private 108 Taj Ganj (Agra) 261
10–11 Sports and outdoor activities 266–9 Taj Group 232, 235
North of Delhi 260 Sri Aurobindo Ashram (Delhi) 233, Taj Mahal (Agra) 11, 14, 33, 57, 87,
opening hours 258 235, 269 139, 151, 158–61, 218
paintings and objets’d’art 261 Sri Krishna Janmabhoomi Temple Taj Mahotsav (Agra) 45, 264
paper 261 (Mathura) 165 Taklamakan Desert 76
pottery 261 Sri Ram Centre (Delhi) 80 Talab Shahi 171
GENERAL INDEX 307
Taliqi Darwaza (Delhi) 88 Train travel 288–9 Vijay Mandir Palace 211
Talkatora (Jaipur) 186, 187 Travel Corporation of India (TCI) 291 Vijay Sagar Lake 211
Talkatora Stadium (Delhi) 43 Travel information 286–95 Vijaya Dashami 41, 44
Tandoori food 246–7 Agra and Around 153 Vinay Singh 212
Tansen 167, 175, 178 air travel 286–7 Vindhya mountains 228
Tansen Festival 44 bus travel 290–91 Vintage Car Rally (Delhi) 45
Taragarh Fort (Ajmer) 222 Delhi see Delhi City Map (inside Vipassana Sadhana Sansthan
Taragram 179 back cover) (Delhi) 268, 269
Tasbih Khana (Red Fort) 99 Jaipur and Environs 185 Virat, King 213
Taxes 277 local transport in cities 294–5 Viratnagar 213
hotels 234 North of Delhi 142 Visa 282
Taxila (Pakistan) 21 road travel 292–3 Visas 272, 275
Taxis 294 train travel 288–9 Vishnu 28, 29, 116, 222
to/from airport 287 Traveller’s cheques 283 Vishram Ghat (Mathura) 165
Teej (Jaipur) 43 Trees, Indian 24–5 Vishwa Yuvak Kendra (Delhi) 274, 275
Teen Murti (Delhi) 63, 82 Trekking 268, 269
Tekson’s Bookshop (Delhi) 123 Tripolia Bazaar (Jaipur) 188, 190 W
Telegraph Memorial (Delhi) 105 Tripolia Gate (Jaipur) 190 Waiting rooms, railway 289
Telephone services 284, 285 Triveni Ghat (Rishikesh) 148 Wajid Ali Shah 59
Television 285 Triveni Kala Sangam (Delhi) 80, 124, Water holes (Sariska
Teli ka Mandir (Gwalior) 30, 178 125, 268 National Park) 214
Temperature chart 45 Tropic of Capricorn 40 Water Palace (Deeg) 167, 168–9
Tempos 295 Tuberculosis 281 Water sports 269
Tendulkar, Sachin 65 Tughlaq dynasty 54, 141 Water-borne diseases 281
Tennis 266 Tughlaqabad 103, 111, 118–19 Weights and measures 275
Tetanus 281 Tughlaqabad Fort 118–19 Welcomgroup Rajputana Palace
Textiles 263 Tughra 222 Sheraton (Jaipur) 265
blockprinted 209 Tulsi (Delhi) 122, 123 Wetlands 25
National Museum (Delhi) 79 Turkish Sultana’s House (Fatehpur White ibis 172
shopping for 122, 123, 260, 261 Sikri) 174, 176 White-throated Kingfisher 173
Thana 59 Turkman Gate (Delhi) 93, 100 Wildlife 24–5
Thar Desert 24, 138, 183 Tushita Mahayana Meditation Centre Willingdon, Lady 83
Thar Inc. (Jaipur) 261 (Delhi) 268, 269 Willingdon, Lord 107
Theatre 34–5, 264–5 Typhoid 281 Willoughby, Captain 105
contemporary 35 Winter 44–5
Delhi 124, 125 U Wiring money 283
Theft 278 Ugrasen, Raja 80 Women travellers 274
Thomas, George 144, 146 Ugrasen ki Baoli (Delhi) 80 World Bank 65
Thomas Cook India 291 Ujjain 148 World Book Fair (Delhi) 89
Thomson Civil Engineering College UNESCO World Heritage Sites 151 World Cup (cricket) 266
(Roorkee) 147 Uniara Palace 227 World Expeditions India
Tibet House (Delhi) 123 Unnatansha Yantra (Jaipur) 196 (Delhi) 267, 269
Tibetan Buddhists 27 UP Handicrafts Complex (Agra) 261 World Trade Centre 89
Tickets Upanishads 26, 49, 141 World War I 72, 75, 82
airline 287 Urs World War II 62, 108
bus 291 Ajmer 41, 222, 224–5, 264 World Wide Fund for Nature (WWF)
entertainment 124, 264 Delhi 42, 86 218, 268, 269
train 288 Usha Kiran Palace (Gwalior) 237, 240 World-Newspapers 285
Tie-and-dye (bandhini) 194, 260 Uttar Pradesh Tourism Department
Tiger 24, 214, 227, 229 290, 291 Y
Tikamgarh 180 Yagna Stambha 203
Tilak, BG 62 V Yamuna, River 24, 25, 88, 99, 111, 151,
Time Out Delhi 124 Vadehra Art Gallery (Delhi) 125 153, 154, 162, 165, 166
Time zone 274–5 Vajpayee, AB 65 Yashoda 166
The Times of India 285 Valley of Monkeys 200 Yellow Boys 105
Timetables, train 288 Vana Vihar Ram Sagar YMCA 233, 274, 275
Timur the Lame 55, 101 Wildlife Reserve 171 Yoga asana 268
Tipping 277 Varanasi 48, 49, 77 Youth hostels 233
in hotels 235 Varma, Raja Ravi 75 Youth Hostels Association of India
restaurants 243 Varsha 41 (YHAI) 274, 275
Toilets 273 Vasant 40 Yudhishthira 213
Tomar Dynasty 121 Vasant Panchami 40, 45 YWCA 44
Tongas 295 Vasantasena 51
Tonk 226 Ved Pal Sharma Banno (Jaipur) 261 Z
Tourist information 273 Ved Vyas 145 Zabita Khan’s Mosque
Tourist lodges 233 Vedas 26, 141 (Saharanpur) 147
Tourist offices 275 Vegetarian food 243, 248–9 Zafar Mahal (Mehrauli) 114
Tourist Village (Pushkar) 234, 235 Veroneo, Geronimo 157 Zakir Hussain 35
Tours Viceroys of India 60 Zakir Hussain College 100
Brajbhumi Driving Tour 166–7 house of, 71, 74 Zardozi 157, 260
River Tour along the Ganges 149 Victoria, Queen 60 Zenana (Amber Fort) 206
A Tour of Bundelkhand 179 Vidyadhar ka Bagh (near Jaipur) 200 Zinat Mahal (Delhi) 100
A Tour of Shekhawati 217 Vijay Chowk (Delhi) 18, 74 Zinat-ul-Masjid (Delhi) 101
Touts 259 street-by-street map 72–3 Zinat-un-Nisa Begum 101
hotels 234–5 Vijay Mandal (Delhi) 118 Zoroaster 27
308 ACKNOWLEDGMENTS
Acknowledgments
Dorling Kindersley would like to thank the following people Vijayan Kannampilly is a journalist and painter based in Delhi and
whose contributions and assistance have made the prepara- has a special interest in Indian design and contemporary art.
tion of this book possible.
Editorial and Design
Contributors Publisher Douglas Amrine
Anuradha Chaturvedi is a consultant on architectural Editorial Director Vivien Crump
conservation with the Indian National Trust for Art and Art Director Gillian Allan
Cultural Heritage (INTACH). Senior Managing Editor Louise Bostock Lang
Production Marie Ingledew
Dharmendar Kanwar is a well-known travel writer based in
Jaipur. She has published several books on the architecture Map Coordinator David Pugh.
and culture of the region.
Revisions & Relaunch Team
Partho Datta teaches Indian history at a college in Delhi Ashwin Raju Adimari, Parnika Bagla, Shruti Bahl, Ipshita Barua,
University. He is interested in modern urban studies on which Imogen Corke, Dipika Dasgupta, Nick Edwards, Aditya Katyal,
he has written several papers. Jasneet Kaur, Sumita Khatwani, Kirit Kiran, Hayley Maher,
Sushmita Malaviya, Kiran Mohan, Vandana Mohindra, Casper
Premola Ghose is a gifted writer and illustrator of children’s Morris, Preeti Morris, Nandini Mehta, Janice Erica Pariat, Lucy
books. She is the Programme Officer at the India International Richards, Ellen Root, Tara Sharma, Beverly Smart, Anna
Centre, New Delhi. Streiffert, Avantika Sukhia, Priyanka Thakur, Stuti Tiwari,
Deepika Verma, Tanveer Zaidi.
Ranjana Sengupta is a journalist and author of books on
Ajanta and contemporary Indian society. She is currently Cartography Assistance
writing a book on Delhi after 1947. Kishorchand Naorem, Shivanand.
Proof Reader Abha Kapoor.
Subhadra Sengupta is a freelance journalist based in Delhi Fact Checking Ranee Sahney
who writes on travel and tourism for several Indian Indexer Bibhu Mohapatra.
newspapers and magazines. Additional Contributors
Consultants Anirudh Goswami, Rani Kalra, Ira Pande, Ranee Sahaney.
Ajai Shankar is a senior civil servant with the Government of
Additional Illustrations
India and is the Director-General of the Archaeological Survey
Aniket Vardhan, Arun P, Mugdha Sethi.
of India (ASI).
Additional Photography
Aman Nath has written extensively on the crafts and Ashwin Raju Adimari, Idris Ahmed, Ipshita Barua, Benu Joshi,
architecture of Rajasthan. He is involved in the restoration of Rajnish Kashyap, Aditya Katyal, Mathew Kurien, Anand
heritage properties in this region. Naorem, Mugdha Sethi, Anal Shah.
Daljeet Kaur is the curator of the Indian miniature paintings DTP Designers
section in the National Museum, New Delhi and has written Shailesh Sharma, Jessica Subramanian,.
several books and articles on this subject.
Special Assistance
Dorling Kindersley would like to thank all the regional and
Ebba Koch has travelled extensively in the sub-continent and
local tourist offices in Delhi, Agra and Jaipur for their valuable
is an internationally acknowledged expert on the art and
help. Particular thanks also to: Ajai Shankar, ASI, New Delhi;
architecture of the Indo-Islamic and Mughal periods.
Dr Daljeet, National Museum, New Delhi; Malaynil Singh, TCI;
Delhi School of Planning and Architecture; Siraj Qureshi and
Giles Tillotson is Senior Lecturer in South Asian Art at SOAS
RVI Singh in Agra
(University of London), and the author of books on
architecture in India during the Mughal, Rajput and British Photography Permissions
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kind permission to photograph their products: Preeti Paul.
Jyotindra Jain is the founder-director of the Crafts Museum, New The publishers would also like to thank the following for
Delhi, and has authored several books on Indian crafts. permission to photograph at their establishments: Biotique,
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310 FURTHER READING
Further Reading
Architecture Indian Painting Randhawa, M.S. Myths and Symbols in Indian Art
Delhi and its Neighbourhood and Galbraith, J.K., Vakils, Feffer and Civilization Zimmer, H., Harper
Sharma, Y.D., Archaeological Survey & Simon Limited, Bombay 1982. and Brothers, New York 1962.
of India, Delhi 1982. Masterpieces from the National Symbols in Art and Religion Werner, K.
Delhi, the City of Monuments Museum Collection (ed.), Motilal Banarsidass Publishers
Dube, D.N. and Gupta, S.P., National Museum, Pvt. Ltd., Delhi 1991.
Ramanathan, J., Timeless New Delhi 1985. The History of India Dodwell, H. H. (ed.),
Books, New Delhi 1997. Paradise as a Garden Moynihan, 6 vols, Cambridge University Press,
Fatehpur Sikri Brand, M. and E.B., George Braziller Inc., Cambridge 1934.
Lowry, G.D. (eds.), Marg New York 1979. The Great Moghuls
Publications, Mumbai 1987. The Arts of India Birdwood, Gascoigne, B., Dorset Press,
Indian Architecture Brown, G.C.M., Nanda Book Service, London 1971.
P., (2 vols), D.B. Taraporevala Sons & Delhi 1997. The Wonder that was India Basham,
Co. Pvt. Ltd., Bombay 1964. The Golden Calm Kaye, M.M. (ed.), A.L., Rupa and Co.,
Mughal Architecture Koch, E., Webb & Bower, Exeter 1980. New Delhi 1966.
PRESTEL-Verlag, Munich 1991. The Painted Walls of Shekhawati
Mughal India Tillotson, G.H.R., Nath, A. and Wacziarg F., Croom Nature and Wildlife
Penguin, London 1991. & Helm, London 1982. Bharatpur: Bird Paradise Ewans, M.,
Sacred Architecture Pereira, J., The Splendour of Mathura Art Lustre Press, New Delhi 1992.
Islamic Books & Books, and Museum Sharma, R.C., DK Book of Indian Animals Prater, W.,
New Delhi 1994. Printworld (P) Ltd., New Delhi 1994. Bombay Natural History Society,
Stones of Empire Morris, J., Bombay 1948.
Oxford University Press, Fiction Book of Indian Birds Ali, S.,
Oxford 1983. A Passage to India Forster, E. M., Bombay Natural History Society,
Taj Mahal: The Illumined Penguin, London 1924. Bombay 1941.
Tomb Begley, W.E., Aga A Suitable Boy Seth, V., Viking, The Garden of Life Patnaik, N.,
Khan Program for Islamic New Delhi 1993. Doubleday, New York 1993.
Architecture, Massachussetts 1989. City of Djinns Dalrymple, W., Flamingo, In Danger Manfredi, P., Ranthambhore
The Architecture of India Grover, S., London 1994. Foundation, New Delhi 1997.
(2 vols), Vikas Publishing The Raj Quartet Scott, P., Heinemann, Indian Wildlife Israel S. and
House Pvt. Ltd., New Delhi 1981. London 1976. Sinclair T. (eds.), APA Publications,
Train to Pakistan Singh, K., Ravi Dayal Singapore 1989.
The Forts of India Fass, V., Collins,
Publisher, Delhi 1988. Nature Watch Singh, K. and Basu, S.,
London 1986.
Lustre Press, New Delhi 1990.
The History of Architecture in India
History Birds of India Grewal, B., Local Colour,
Tadgell, C., Phaidon, London 1990.
A History of India (Vol 2), Spear, P., Hong Kong 2000.
The Palaces of India Fass, V. and
Penguin, London 1956. Tigers: The Secret Life Thapar, V., Elm
Maharaja of Baroda, Collins,
A Princess Remembers Gayatri Devi, Tree Books, London 1989.
London 1980.
The Penguin Guide to the Monuments Rupa and Co., New Delhi 1995.
of India (Vol 2) Davies, P., Viking, Annals and Antiquities of Rajasthan
London 1989. Tod, J., Oxford University Press,
Oxford 1920.
Culture and Crafts Delhi Between Two Empires
A Second Paradise Patnaik, N., Sidgwick Gupta, N., Oxford University
and Jackson Ltd., London, 1985. Press, Delhi 1981.
Catalogue of the Crafts Museum New Delhi and its Monuments Spear, P.,
Delhi 1982. Gupta N. and Sykes, L., Oxford
Curry and Bugles Brennan, J., Penguin, University Press, New Delhi 1994.
London 1992. Freedom at Midnight Lapierre, D.
Dance of the Peacock Bala Krishnan, U. and Collins, L., Vikas Publishing
and Kumar, M.S., India Book House, House Pvt. Ltd., Delhi 1976.
Mumbai 1999. India Britannica Moorhouse, G.,
The Essence of Indian Art Goswamy, B. Paladin Books, London 1984.
N., Mapin International, San Indian Mythology Ions, V., Paul
Francisco 1986. Hamlyn, London 1967.
Hanklyn-Janklin Hankin, N., Banyan Jaipur Nath, A., India Book House,
Books, Delhi 1992. Mumbai 1993.
Indian Art Dehejia, V., Phaidon, Lives of the Indian Princes Allen, C.
London 1997. and Dwivedi, S. London 1985.
GLOSSARY 311
Glossary
Architecture phad: painted cloth scroll from Mahabharata: famous Hindu epic
ashram: hermitage Rajasthan (see p53) (see p145)
bagh: garden pichhwai: cloth painting depicting namaaz: ritual prayers of Muslims
bangaldar: curved roof Krishna lore pir: Muslim saint (see p86)
derived from Bengali hut (see p32) qawwali: style of devotional Sufi puja: ritual prayer (see p28)
baradari: pavilion with 12 pillars music (see p34) Ramayana: epic on the
(see p200) raga: melodic structure with a fixed legend of Lord Rama
basti: settlement sequence of musical notes (see p34) samadhi: memorial platform over
charbagh: quadripartite garden rasa: mood; essence (see p35) site of cremation (see p101)
(see p33) sati: practice of self-immolation
shahtoosh: a fine shawl, now
dharamshala: charitable rest house by a widow on her husband’s
banned, that can pass through a
for pilgrims funeral pyre
ring. It is woven from the down of
ghar: house, crypt (see p118) Shaivite: followers of Shiva
the endangered chiru antelope.
gali: lane tirthankara: Jain prophet
tala: rhythmic cycle of
jaali: carved lattice work on stone Upanishads: philosophical texts
varying beats (see p34)
screens (see p31) regarded as sacred scripture, dating
thal-posh: dish cover (see p195)
katra: side lane (see p93) to the later Vedic age (see p26)
khirkee: window
Dress Vaishnavite: followers of Vishnu
kotla: a citadel or fortified area
Vedas: texts codifying Aryan beliefs
within a city burqa: concealing cloak worn by
and principles, these were orally
kund: pool, tank (see p121) some Muslim women
transmitted until transcribed
mahal: palace chador: ceremonial pall of cloth or
into Sanskrit as the Rig Veda,
mardana: men’s quarters in flowers placed over a Muslim tomb
Sama Veda, Yajur Veda and
a palace (see p86)
Atharva Veda (see p26)
maqbara: burial-palace, mausoleum, dhoti: unstitched garment of Hindu
yagna: vedic rite
sepulchre (see p146) men which covers the lower half of
masjid: mosque the body
Miscellaneous
mehmankhana: guesthouse gota: gold or silver frill
badal: cloud (see p186)
minar: freestanding tower jootis: slippers (see p190)
bahi khatha: cloth bound
minaret: tower in mosque khadi: hand-woven, hand-spun
account book (see p190)
for calling the faithful to prayer cloth popularized by Gandhi
charpoy: string cot
pol: gate (see p192) (see pp62–3)
chowkidar: watchman
toshakhana: state treasury lehenga: flounced skirt (see p34)
Doctrine of Lapse: this gave the
(see p194) mukut: crown (see p190)
British the right to take direct
zenana: women’s quarters zari: gold thread
control of princely states that
in a palace
did not have an undisputed
Religion heir (see p60)
Craft and Culture aarti: ritual of Hindu worship
bandhini: tie-and-dye haat: open-air market
ahimsa: non-violence ikka: pony trap (see p195)
(see p90)
amrit: sacred nectar of the gods jheel: shallow lake
dholak: drum (see p101)
(see p29) katar: two-sided blade
Dhrupad: style of North Indian
Balaji: one of Hanuman’s many loo: hot westerly wind that blows
classical music (see p34)
names in North India (see p201) over North India from April to June
ganjifa: set of playing cards
bhajan: devotional song (see p32) machan: look-out post
(see p145)
gharana: school of classical music Chishtiyas: followers of the mohur: Mughal gold coin
or dance (see p34) 12th-century Sufi saint, nawab: a Muslim prince
ikat: tie-and-dye yarn woven Moinuddin Chishti (see p86) pachisi: a ludo-like dice
in a pattern dharma: duty, calling (see p145) game (see p175)
katha: epic tale (see p35) kalasha: urn (see p119) Raj: the period of British rule in
matka: earthenware pot lila: divine sport (see p167) India (see pp60–61)
mela: fair, fête linga: phallic emblem of Satyagraha: a form of moral protest
patachitra: painted scroll with Lord Shiva (see p90) started by Gandhi (see pp62–3)
mythological tales (see p145) madrasa: Islamic theological college thakur: Hindu chieftain
312 PHRASE BOOK
Phrase Book
Hindi is the national language of India and even though rather), most feminine nouns end with –i (as in thin),
it is not the mother tongue of a major proportion of the while all plural nouns end in –e (as in hen). Verb
population, it is spoken widely in this region. All nouns endings also differ if it is a man or woman speaking.
are either masculine or feminine and the adjective agrees In the present tense, a man ends his verbs with –a,
with the noun. Most masculine nouns end with –aa (as in a woman ends hers with –i.
In an Emergency Bad Kharaab Water Pani

Help! Bachao Enough Bus/Kafi hai Ice Baraf
Stop! Roko Open Khula Tea Chai
Call a doctor! Doctor ko bulao Closed Bund Coffee Kaufi
Where is the Yahan phone kahan Left Baayan Sugar Cheeni
nearest telephone? hai? Right Daayan Salt Namak
Straight on Seedha Milk Doodh
Near Paas/Nazdeek Yoghurt Dahi
Communication Essentials Quickly Jaldi Egg Anda
Yes Haan Late Der se Fruit Phal
No Na/ naheen Later Baad mein Vegetable Sabzi
Thank you Dhanyavad/Shukria Entrance Pravesh Rice Chaawal
Please Kripaya/Meharbani Exit Nikas Pulse Dal
se Behind Peechhe (lentil, split pea etc)
Excuse me/sorry Kshama karen/Maaf Full Bhara Fixed Ek daam menu
karen Empty Khali priced menu
Hello/goodbye Namaste Toilet Shauchaalaya Is it spicy? Mirch-masala tez
Halt Rook jao Free/no charge Nih shulka, muft hai kya?
Let’s go Chalo Direction Disha Not too spicy, ok? Mirch-masala kam,
Straight ahead Seedha Book Kitab theek hai?
Big/Small Bara/Chhota Magazine Patrika Knife Chhuri
This/That Yeh/Voh Newspaper Akhbaar Fork Kanta
Near/Far Paas/Door Spoon Chammach
Way Raasta Shopping Finish Khatam
Road Sarak How much Iska kya daam hai?
Yesterday Beeta hua kal does this cost? Numbers
Today Aaj I would like… Mujhe … chahiye.
Tomorrow Aane wala kal 1 Ek
Do you have…? Kya aap ke paas 2 Do
Here Yahaan
… hai? 3 Teen
There Wahaan
I am just looking Abhi dekh rahen 4 Char
What? Kya?
hain 5 Panch
Where? Kahaan?
Does it come Yeh dooserey 6 Chhe
When? Kab?
in other colours? rangon main bhi 7 Saat
Why? Kyon?
aata hai kya? 8 Aath
How? Kaise?
This one Yeh wala 9 Nau
Up Upar
That one Voh wala 10 Dus
Down Neeche
Black Kaala 11 Gyarah
More Aur zyada
Blue Neela 12 Barah
A little Thora
White Safed 13 Terah
Before Pehle
Red Lal 14 Chaudah
Opposite/facing Saamne
Yellow Peela 15 Pundrah
Very Bahut
Green Hara 16 Solah
Less Kam
Brown Bhura 17 Satrah
Louder/harder Zor se
Cheap Sasta 18 Atharah
Softly/gently Dheere se
Expensive Mehanga 19 Unnees
Go Jao
Tailor Darzi 20 Bees
Come Aao
30 Tees
Useful Phrases Bargaining 40 Chalees
How much is this? Yeh kitne ka hai? 50 Pachaas
How are you? Aap kaise hain? How much Kya loge? 60 Saath
What is Aapka naam kya 70 Sattar
will you take?
your name? hai? That’s a Yeh to mehanga 80 Assi
My name is … Mera naam … hai. 90 Nabbe
little expensive hai
Do you Angrezi ati hai? Could you lower Daam thoda kam 100 Sau
speak English? the price a bit? kariye 1, 000 Hazar
I understand Samajh gaya/gayi How about XX rupeye lainge? 100, 000 Lakh
I don’t Nahin samjha/ XX rupees? 10, 000, 000 Karod (crore)
understand samjhi I’ll settle for XX rupeye mein
What is the time? Kya baja hai? XX rupees. dena hai to dijiye Time
Where is …? …Kahaan hai?
One minute Ek minit
What is this? Yeh kya hai?
Hurry up Jaldi karo Staying in a Hotel One hour Ek ghanta
Do you have Aapke hotel mein Half an hour Aadha ghanta
How far is …? … Kitni door hai?
any vacant rooms? khali kamre hain Quarter hour Pauna ghanta
I don’t know Pata nahin
kya? Half past one Derh
All right Achha/Theek hai
What is the Ek raat ka kiraya Half past two Dhai
Now/instantly Abhi/Isi waqt
A day Ek din
Well done! Shabash! charge per night? kya hai?
A week Ek haftah
See you Phir milenge Can I see the Kya mein pehle
Monday Somwar
Go away! Hat jao/Hato room first? kamra dekh sakta
Tuesday Mangalwar
I don’t want it Mujhe nahin chahiye hoon?
Wednesday Budhwar
Not now Abhi nahin Key Chaabhi
Thursday Veerwar
Soap Sabun
Friday Shukrawar
Useful Words Towel Tauliya
Saturday Shaniwar
Hot/cold water Garam/thanda pani
Which Kaun sa Sunday Raviwar
Who Kaun Morning Subah
Hot Garam Eating Out Afternoon Dopahar
Cold Thanda Breakfast Nashta Evening Shaam
Good Achha Food Khaana Night Raat

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EYEWITNESS TRAVEL

Photographers A gathering at a village square in Rajasthan

Printed and bound in China

First Published in Great Britain in 2000 by

Reprinted with revisions 2001, 2003, 2007, 2010, 2013, 2015

All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be

Putting Delhi, Agra &

North of Delhi 140

Agra and Around 150

Sports and Outdoor

New Delhi 70 Embroidered slippers

Nizamuddin to General Index 296

Further Afield 102 Where to Eat Further Reading

Delhi Street Finder 126

Portrait of Bani Thani,

HOW TO USE THIS GUIDE

Delhi DELHI AREA BY AREA  71

and plotted on the chapter’s area 2 Vijay Chowk

map. Each sight is presented 3 Cathedral Church of Redemption

chapter, making it easy to locate.

BHAI VIR SINGH MG

For easy reference, sights

SINGH MARG Rajiv Chowk YA

are numbered and located

on a map. City centre sights

A locator map shows where

CHURCH ROAD DR R AJE N DR A

you are in relation to other R A J PAT H

are also marked on the

DALHOUSIE RD MAULANA AZAD RD

areas of the city centre.

Delhi Street Finder map

72  DELHI AREA BY AREA NEW DELHI  73

Street-by-Street: Around Vijay Chowk

so that even today, Indian ministers and officials live in spacious

2 Street-by-Street Map MOTILAL NEHRU MARG

This gives a bird’s-eye O

The Iron Gates H R

view of the key areas

Copied from a pair A A

in each chapter. highly ornamental

Rashtrapati Bhavan lies KR

to the west of them. NA

Edwin Landseer Lutyens

Architect Edwin Landseer Lutyens

1 Rashtrapati rises 55 m (180 ft). Within are

Map 4 E2. Tel (011) 2301 5321.

Republic Day Parade

numbers, opening hours and

Exploring Jaipur and Environs

Dumru Khetri Narnaul

site of a powerful medieval kingdom, beyond

Ranthambhore, nestling beneath the grand Lachhmangarh

ramparts of a historic medieval fort. Udaipur Jindoli

are numbered and there are

also useful tips on getting to,

A labyrinth of fascinating bazaars, opulent The Talkatora is an artificial Practical Information

are described individually.

Delhi DELHI AREA BY AREA 71

72 DELHI AREA BY AREA NEW DELHI 73

158 BEYOND DELHI AREA BY AREA TA J M A H A L 159