This report summarizes a two-month industrial internship at South China Bleaching & Dyeing Factory Ltd in Savar, Bangladesh. The factory processes cotton and lycra fabrics and is a fully export-oriented subsidiary of a Hong Kong company. It has state-of-the-art textile machinery from Europe and the US. The report describes the factory's physical infrastructure and production process, including raw material management, pretreatment, weaving, inspection of grey fabrics. It also provides organizational charts and outlines staff duties and responsibilities in production management. The factory aims to advance Bangladesh's textile industry globally through superior quality processing.
This report summarizes a two-month industrial internship at South China Bleaching & Dyeing Factory Ltd in Savar, Bangladesh. The factory processes cotton and lycra fabrics and is a fully export-oriented subsidiary of a Hong Kong company. It has state-of-the-art textile machinery from Europe and the US. The report describes the factory's physical infrastructure and production process, including raw material management, pretreatment, weaving, inspection of grey fabrics. It also provides organizational charts and outlines staff duties and responsibilities in production management. The factory aims to advance Bangladesh's textile industry globally through superior quality processing.
This report summarizes a two-month industrial internship at South China Bleaching & Dyeing Factory Ltd in Savar, Bangladesh. The factory processes cotton and lycra fabrics and is a fully export-oriented subsidiary of a Hong Kong company. It has state-of-the-art textile machinery from Europe and the US. The report describes the factory's physical infrastructure and production process, including raw material management, pretreatment, weaving, inspection of grey fabrics. It also provides organizational charts and outlines staff duties and responsibilities in production management. The factory aims to advance Bangladesh's textile industry globally through superior quality processing.
National Institute of Textile Engineering & Research
(NITER) Nayarhat, Savar, Dhaka
REPORT ON INDUSTRIAL ATTACHMENT SOUTH CHINA BLEACHING & DYEING FACTORY Ltd. DEPZ, GONOKBARI, SAVAR, DHAKA Duration (Two Months)
SUPERVISING TEACHER CO-SUPERVISING TEACHER
Rony Mia A.B M Nurullah Lecturer Lecturer of Sociology Department of Wet Processing Engineering National Institute of Textile Engineering & Research National Institute of Textile Engineering & Research Nayarhat,Savar,Dhaka Nayarhat,Savar,Dhaka
Submitted By : NAME STUDENT ID SESSION Fahim Ahmed Mahi 140401022 2016-2017 Shaharukh Khan Dwip 140401035 2016-2017 Md. Sana Ullah 140401036 2016-2017 Md.Waras Hossin Sarker 140401054 2016-2017 Tizal Barua 140401070 2016-2017 Md. Foysal Khan 140401175 2016-2017
1 Acknowledgement
At first our appreciation goes to Almighty for giving us strength and ability to complete the industrial training & this report. A number of people have made significant contributions in preparing this report. Their insights, advice and suggestions helped us a lot. With due respect, we would like to express our heartfelt thanks to our Asst. Prof. Ismat Zerin the Head of the department of wet processing Engineering, (NITER) for continuously guiding us about the development and preparation of the report. We express our gratitude and appreciation to our supervising teacher Rony Mia, Lecturer, Dept. of Wet Processing Engineering, (NITER) for his valuable guidance, suggestion, encouragement throughout the industrial training & this report.
We would like to express our sincere gratitude to Mr. Chandan Chakrovorty, Administration GM, “SOUTH CHINA BLEACHING & DYEING FACTORY LIMITED”, who has allowed us to work in his organization within a congenial atmosphere during the industrial training period.
We recognize Md. Didarul Alam, (Sr. Officer- HR & Admin) for managing our internship and for providing sincere help in all administrative and technical matters while working in the organization. Our heartfelt thanks go to him for allowing us to perform our industrial attachment in the “SOUTH CHINA BLEACHING & DYEING FACTORY LIMITED”.
Our sincere appreciation goes to the entire “SOUTH CHINA BLEACHING & DYEING FACTORY LIMITED” team for extending their hands of cooperation throughout the training period. Advice and suggestions helped us a lot.
2 Introduction/Executive Summary
M/S Golden Crown Enterprises Int’l Ltd, Hong Kong, an umbrella organization, has started its operation in the field of processing in Dhaka Export Processing Zone(DEPZ), Bangladesh under incorporation in the name of “South China Bleaching & Dyeing Factory Ltd” and has been meeting the growing demand of 100% cotton/lycra fabric in Bangladesh Readymade Garment sector largely.
South China Bleaching & Dyeing Factory Ltd was registered on 14th February, 1996 and commenced first commercial operation on July. 1998.
South china group is a rapidly growing multinational organization in Bangladesh. Over the long time being in business in Bangladesh as pioneer, the organization has earned a solid reputation both locally & globally in Textile & Apparel sector.
The state-of-the-art textile machineries imported from Germany, Italy, USA and installed under direct supervision of experts of supplier companies has developed an in-built means for optimum productivity with superior quality.
While South China remains a 100% export oriented organization, the company vision is to uplift Bangladesh globally in textile sector.
3 Table of Contents CHAPTER ONE ................................................................................................................................. 9 1.0 Project description: ................................................................................................................... 9 1.1 Physical Infrastructure: ............................................................................................................. 9 1.2 Site Location: ...........................................................................................................................10 CHAPTER TWO ............................................................................................................................... 12 Man Power Management/Organogram ...........................................................................................12 2.0 Organogram of South China Bleaching & Dyeing Factory Ltd and Goldtex Limited: ........12 2.1 Man Power distribution in Deferent Section: ....................................................................... 12 2.2 Shift Change: ........................................................................................................................ 13 2.3 Management system:............................................................................................................. 14 2.4 Duties & Responsibilities of Production Officer: .................................................................14 2.5 Duties & Responsibilities of Senior Production Officer: ......................................................15 2.6 Duties & Responsibilities of DGM (Production): ................................................................ 15 2.7 Generalization: ...................................................................................................................... 15 CHAPTER THREE ............................................................................................................................ 16 Machine Description........................................................................................................................ 16 3.0 Number of machine in different department: .........................................................................16 3.1 Brand Name & Specification: ................................................................................................18 CHAPTER FOUR ............................................................................................................................... 25 Material management ...................................................................................................................... 25 4.0 Introduction: .......................................................................................................................... 25 4.1 Types of raw material: ............................................................................................................ 25 CHAPTER FIVE ................................................................................................................................ 26 Production planning sequence &operation ..................................................................................... 26 5.0 Production planning: ............................................................................................................. 26 5.1 Process Flow Chart: .............................................................................................................. 27 5.2 Production flow chart: .......................................................................................................... 27 5.3 Production flow chart: South china bleaching and dyeing factory ltd. ........................................ 28
8 CHAPTER ONE PROJECT DESCRIPTION 1.0 Project description: 1. Name of the project: South China Bleaching & Dyeing Factory Ltd. 2. Type :100% Export oriented composite woven industry 3. Establishment Year:12March 1996 4. Location : Dhaka Export processing Zone(DEPZ) 5. Address : Plot no.93-100, DEPZ,Savar,Dhaka,Bangladesh. 6. Sponsors :Ownership 7. Associate Organization:Goldtex Garments Ltd; Actor Sporting Ltd, Global Textile Ltd 8. Product Mix: 100% Cotton & Cotton/Lycra fabric of Customized. Construction such: Twill& Twill derivatives Canvas Poplin Sheeting Herringbone Rib Stop Dobby Bed ford cord Satin and Other Customized Structure Fabrics. 9. Monthly production: 3500000meters 10. Project cost: Its vary year to year 11. Types of the Factory: Horizontally Integrated 12. Different Departments: Administration Human Resource & Development Departments Grey Fabric Inspection Department Bleaching Department Brushing Department Dyeing Department Printing Department Finishing Department Mechanical Department Laboratory Fabric Warehouse Quality Assurance Department Weaving Department Washing Department Utility Department. Collaborate with CETP.
1.1 Physical Infrastructure:
Two storied building with concrete structure (About 35ft high)
Total area: 3,49,409 sq. ft.
About 2, 00,000sq.ft. Building equipment & 1, 49,409sq.ft open space is obtained.
9 1.2 Site Location: Following this miniature:
Remarks: South China Bleaching & Dyeing Factory Ltd. is one of the leading woven dyeing factory in Bangladesh& Inventory store house of this factory is biggest in south Asia. Environment of this factory is very sound& friendly. The management of this factory tries to increase production day by day.
10 Layout Plan Of South China B & D Factory Ltd.:
Fig: Layout plan
11 CHAPTER TWO Men Power Management/Organogram
2.0 Organogram of South China Bleaching & Dyeing Factory Ltd and Goldtex Ltd.
12 2.1 Man Power distribution in Deferent Section:
1. Accounts 10 2 0 12
2. Bleaching 5 3 77 85
3. Boiler 1 0 17 18
4. Brushing 2 1 19 22
5. Chemical Store 3 2 12 17
6. Commercial 10 3 0 13
7. Dyeing 5 3 105 113
8. Electrical 2 0 35 37
9. Fabric store 2 3 39 44
10. Finishing 2 1 54 57
11. House keeping 0 1 46 47
12. HR & Admin 10 1 0 11
13. IT 3 2 0 5
14. Laboratory 12 23 10 45
15. Marketing 13 3 0 16
16. Mechanical 5 2 40 47
17. Printing 2 2 25 29
18. Production 3 1 9 13
19. Q. A 2 1 27 30
20. Rolling 1 6 61 68
21. Security 2 0 35 37
22. Transport 0 0 17 17
23. Washing 2 1 66 69
24. P.P.C 2 1 0 3
25. Q.C Online 2 1 8 11
26. R&D 2 1 13 0 3
Total 103 64 702 869
2.2 Shift Change: There are two shifts per day in South China B & D Factory Ltd. And each shift contains Twelve hour.
Shift Duration A 8.00AM-8.00PM B 8.00PM-8.00AM General Shift 8.00AM-5.00PM General shift is applicable for Administration, Human resource department & some officers.
Customer sample is send to G.M. Then Matching is done properly in laboratory after that the Sample is prepared by dyeing master & send to Customer the for approval. Approved sample is returned back and taken standard Sample for bulk production.Asst. dyeing master gives responsibilities to production officer. Then the production officer with his supervisors have started bulk production. Online and offline quality check is done by lab in-charge and asst. dyeing master.After dyeing, the finishing in-charge controls the finishing process with the supervision of production officer. After finishing, the material is checked by dyeing master. Andfinally, G.M. checks the result with dyeing master and decision is taken for delivery.
2.4 Duties & Responsibilities of Production Officer:
To collect the necessary information and instruction from the previous shift for the smooth running of the section.
To make the junior officer understand how to operate the whole production process. To match shade of sample with target shade. To collect the production sampleof fabric &observe dyed fabric during finishing operation and also after finishing process. Then identify the disputed fabrics and reported to PM/GM for necessary action. To discuss with PM about overall production if necessary & sign the store requisition and delivery challenge in the absence of PM To execute the overall floor work.Tomaintains loading/ unloading paper.Any other assignment given by the authority.
14 2.5 Duties & Responsibilities of Senior Production Officer: Overall supervision of dyeing and finishing section. Batch preparation and pH check. Dyes and chemicals requisition issue and check. Write loading / unloading time from machine. Program making, sample checking, color measurement. Control the supervisor, operator, asst. operator and helper of dyeing machine. Any other work as and when required
2.6 Duties & Responsibilities of
DGM(Production)
Overall supervision of dyeing and finishing section. Check the sensitive parameters of different machines for smooth dyeing. Check the different log books and report to management. Check the plan to control the best output. To trained and motive the subordinates how to improve the quality. Control the supervisor, operator, asst. operator and helper of dyeing m/c & maintenance the machinery and equipment. 2.7Generalization South China has been established as a modernized textile industry for its well prepared management team and knowledgeable officers, employees, operators, workers. The well oriented work teams of South China are continuing their work with so many world famous buyers such as JCP, Zara, H&M etc and gaining customer satisfaction
15 CHAPTER THREE Machine Description
3.0 Number of machine in different department:
Department Name of the machine Number of machine Total Warping 2 Warp preparation Sizing 4 2 1.Weaving Unit 1 94 Weaving 2.Weaving Unit 2 68 212 3.Weaving Unit 3 50
16 Department Name of the Machine No. of the Total machine Laboratory & mini Pad mangle 6 Dyeing lab (in Finishing Pad steam 4 total) Electric oven 3 17 Washing dryer 4
Model: U97/3, No-6935 Model: U97/3, No-6935 Origin: Germany Origin: Germany M/c Speed in Singeing: (100-120)m/min M/c Speed in Singeing: (100-120)m/min No. of Burner:2 No. of Burner:3 No. of Box: 2(1 Scouring +1 Bleaching) No. of Box: 2(1 Scouring +1 Bleaching) Pressure: (10-15)mbar Pressure: (10-15)mbar Drying system: Horizontal Cylinder Dryer Drying system: Horizontal Cylinder Dryer No. of Cylinder: 36 No. of Cylinder: 36 Temperature: About 200 Deg. Temperature: About 200 Deg. Capacity: 5 Batch Capacity: 5 Batch 3. Kuster machine 4. Mercerizing machine Name: Eduard kustersmachinefabrikGmBh& Co. No. of machine: 2 Kg Krefeld Machine Speed: 50yds/min Origin: Germany Temperature: (60-65) c Capacity:8 batch Drying system: Vertical Cylinder Dryer No. of dryer: 36 Temperature 100c above
Dyeing department: 1. Thermosol dyeing machine: Thermosol dyeing machine is used for dyeing with various dyes & combine with various parts which is assembled as per required.There is no specific specification. 2. Cold Pad Batch dyeing machine: Cold Pad Batch dyeing machine is used for dyeing fabric with Reactive dye. There are no specific documents about this machine.
19 Brushing Department:
1.Machine Name: Brushing 2.Machine Name: Brushing m/c 3.Machine Name: Brushing m/c Brand: Isuede m/c Brand: Mario Costa Origin: China Brand: Lisa Origin: Italy No. of brush roll: 5 Origin: Italy No. of brush roll: 3 Brush roller type: ceramic No. of brush roll: 4 Brush roller type: carbon M/c speed: 1500 rpm Brush roller type: carbon M/c speed: 1200 rpm M/c speed: 1200 rpm
Three types of peach are done here Double acting raising machine has 42 rollers in one cylinder. Only raising is done in inner a Light Peach side or back side. b Medium Peach Name of the Machine :Haining / kinco c Heavy Peach Origin : Made in Chaina d No. of sand paper: 16 Machine Speed : 150 rpm Two parameters e Pressure Fabric Speed : 30 meter/min f Fabric Speed: 60 miter/min Sand paper is used hear for peach finish. Sand Machine weight : 6400kg paper count varies according to the type of Machine Power :34.7 kw peach. For light peach use 280, 320 count sand paper & for heavy peach use 60, 80 count sand paper.
Brand: ZHENGZHOU Brand: Morrisan Brand: Monfortex Origin: China Origin: USA Origin: Germany Temperature: (130-150)c Temperature: (130-150)c Temperature: (130-150)c
7. Loop steamer machine:
Origin: Italy; Steam Pressure: 3 bar; Roller: 120 Laboratory (sample section): 1. Pad Mangle There are five padding mangle for dyeing in the sample section Padder Pressure : 2.5 MPa 2. Sample Pad Steam There are three Finishing padding steam in the sample section, Temperature: 100c Speed : (0-20)rpm, running 5rpm. Pressure : (3-10) kg/cm2 Time : (30-60)second 3. Electric Oven Model &Type : Not found Drying Temperature: 55c Time : For light color- 45min ,for dark color- 60min 4. Pressure Dryer Temperature : 145c Time : 20 second Pressure : 450-500 KPa
21 5. Washing machine Used for dewatering from the sample fabric 6. Dryer Type : Electric dryer Temperature : 0-300c Time : 30sec Laboratory (color matching section) 1.Data color machine Name : Data color v.3.1 Software Version : 3.1 2.Color Matching Box(Lab+ Production) Overall No. of color box :10
Types of light source which is used in the m/c is given below-
Symbol Full meaning Functions
UV Ultra violet Used for white color matching F Fluorescent light Check the metamerism of the fabric TL84 Tube light Do L D65 Artificial day light Used for color matching Laboratory (Q.C. Department): 1.Martindale abrasion &pilling 2.Elmatear Digital Tear 3.Thread Evenness Tester tester. Tester(2) Model: HONGDA YG381 Type: Abrasion & pilling tester Brand: James H.Heal& Co. ltd. Origin: Salo-Italy Origin : England Origin: China Pressure: 9kPa for Abrasion 12kpa for pilling. 4. ICI pilling tester 5. Tensile Strength tester(2) 6.Elmendorf Tear Tester(2) Manufacturer: SDL International Model: Tiniusolser Model: Thiwng-albert Textile Testing Solutions Manufacturer: Tiniusolser instrument Model: M227A1 Origin:USA
Manually Measure Moisture Regain Automatically measure Moisture Brand: Atlas Electric Devices & Moisture Content. regain & moisture content Co.(Manual) Origin: USA 10.Automatic CrockmeterBrand: 11. Fabric Marker for 12.Wrinkle Recovery Redington Counters International Shrinkage wash Test Replicas Origin:USA Manufacturer: The Sanforized Method : Wrinkle recovery Company appearance method
22 13.Teflon Test Kit 14.Shirley Crease Recovery 15.Impulse Sealer Manufacturer: CIBA, DU PONT Tester Type: PFS-400 Power 600W Teflon Specification Test Kit Method: Wrinkle Recovery Angle (Impulse) Type: Water Resistant measure Method instrument 16. Yarn Twist tester 17.Perspiration Tester 18.Yarn Count Tester Origin: China Perspiration fastness measure 19. Extension & Elasticity instrument Tester. 20.Absorbency Tester 22.Water Repellency Tester 23. Light fastness Tester Made by Sandlatee Corporation Method: Spray Test 24. GSM Meter . 21. Water Hardness Tester
Utilities Department: General Parameter of Generator: 7 Generators for South China B & D Industry Ltd & 2 for Goldtex Garments Ltd. 1. Oil System : 1500rpm 2. Ignition : Time setting for each cylinder 3. Gas system : Amount of gas per cylinder 4. Exhaust system : 7000 Cubic meter/min 5. Water Temperature : 93-95c 6. Load :(700-1750) KW 7. Voltage (max &min) : 440V-380V 8. Frequency : 50Hz 9. Power Factor : -0.98 10. Battery Voltage : 26V
2. Boiler Three types of boiler are available in South China Bleaching & Dyeing Factory Limited. Steam Boiler ;Oil Steam Boiler ; & Special Steam Boiler General Parameter of Boiler: Boiler Water pH: 9-11 TDS : 2500 (maximum) Steam Pressure : 70-80 PSI Maximum Steam Pressure : 150PSI No. of Input Water Motor : 2 Temperature :350F Capacity : (5-20)ton No. of Boiler : 08 Volume of water : 15000 Kg (max) Power : 960 Hp
23 Power Management: o5 Ton Boiler used in Bleaching Department for Desizing& Scouring. o10 Ton Boiler is used for Bleaching Department.o12.5 Ton Boiler is used in GoldtexLtd. (in Sizing) & Dyeing Department. 3. Air Conditioner: Name : Best Air Conditioner Origin : China No. of Supply fan : 2 No. of Return fan : 2 Dust Collector motor : 2 Washer Pump : 1 4. Compressor:Machine No: 1 Name : Ingersoll Rand Air Compressor Centac Model : 20V35M*3 Serial No : C12093 Year : 2005 Country : USA Capacity : 90 Nm3/m Intake Pressure : 0.972 Bar/A Discharge pressure : 7.005 Bar/G Rated speed : 975 rpm Intake Temperature : 35 deg. Machine No.-2: Name : Ingersoll Rand Air Compressor Centac Model : 20V33M3 Serial No : M92-6612 Year : 1992 Country : USA Capacity : 81 Nm3/m Intake Pressure : 1.012 bar/A Discharge pressure : 10.011 Bar/G Rated speed : 572 rpm Intake temperature : 35 deg.c Machine No.-3 Name : Ingersoll Rand Air Compressor Centac Model : 20V33M3 Serial No : M92-6612 Year : 1992 Country : USA Capacity : 81 Nm3/m Intake Pressure : 1.012 bar/A Discharge pressure : 10.011 Bar/G
24 Rated speed : 572 rpm Intake Temperature : 35 deg.c Remarks: Maximum number machines are modern & run with great efficiency
25 CHAPTER FOUR Material management
4.0 Introduction: Raw material is a unique substance in any production-oriented textile industry. It plays a vital role in case of continuous production & for high quality fabric. The South China Dyeing & Bleaching factory limited uses the best quality raw materials. 4.1 Types of raw material: The basic raw materials used are:
Remarks: The South China Dyeing & Bleaching factory limited uses the best quality raw materials. It produces fabric from the best quality yarn. They use the best quality dyes as compare to price.
26 CHAPTER FIVE Production planning sequence & operation
5.0 Production planning:
Production planning means planning of production. Planning demands a careful and exhaustive study which of co-ordinate and related activities which are necessarily performed by a host of different departmental groups. Objects of production planning: The objects of production planning are:
1. Determine the expected capacity of each work center.
2. Allocate a proportion of this capacity to each broad category of manufacture. 3. Prepare sequential load statements for each major product.
Keep a record of the expected capacity of each work center, by each manufacturing category for each production period. A planned work brings success. Without planning nothing is completed within the required time. So planning has its own importance which is intolerable. "Planning" gives a scheduled task and 'control' completes it successfully. But production planning and control is not an easy task. So South China Bleaching & Dyeing Factory Limited has a self-sufficient and high-performance department called "Production Planning & Control". Its Basic working procedure is as follows –1. Taking orders from marketing division. 1. Analyzing the orders. 2. Planning for weaving the fabric. 3. Planning for dyeing the fabric. 4. Planning for finishing the fabric. It is only a basic procedure. It may change according to the type of order. Sometimes, order is places only for finishing the material or only for dyeing the white goods. Then some steps are omitted for planning procedure. 1. Taking orders from marketing division: SCBDFL marking division supplies Fabric Orders to the Planning and control division by a special format. 2. Analyzing the orders: This section analyzes the orders according to buyers, Order Quantity, type of orders (i.e. type of fabric, color to be dyed etc.), delivery date etc. Then it selects which M/C. to use, no of M/C. to use, time required for production etc. This section plans for required quantity of fabric to be produced (Order quantity + 6% of Order Quantity), weaving balance, fabric need to be dyed. Dyeing balance, RFD (Ready for delivery), RFD balance, delivered fabric and delivery balance. 3. Planning for weaving: This section plans for weaving production. It selects machine for weave the fabric for specific type of fabric, type of yarn used, required GSM, width etc. It also gives delivery data for woven fabric. It also places orders for buying of yarn from spinning mills by a specific schedule.
27 4. Planning for dyeing the fabric: Production planning for dyeing is called 'Batch Plan'. According to the batch no. And color, width, style and construction the batch plan is made. For easy understand this section gives some 'T.' cards. 'T' cards are serialized according to the priority of delivery. The batches and 'T' cards also serialized as to dye light shade at first and lastly the dark shades, since faulty shades can be converted to dark color later. 5. Planning for finishing the fabric: Finishing schedule is same us the dyeing. After dyeing the material goes to the finishing section with the batch plan. Finished data is written to the batch card and is informed to the planning section. However, this section always enforces to all the departments to finish all the works within the delivery time given by the buyers. This section delivers materials by truck, micro, air etc to the customer within the meantime. Thus it plays a very important role in the success of the company.
5.1 Process Flow Chart:
Taking Order from Buyer Lab Inspection & Processing Weaving the desired fabric
viscosity, squeezer pressure etc. Drawing & denting Reed count , required no.ofheald frame ,drafting &lifting plan etc. Weaving Cam setting up according to design , loom speed , required no. of weft yarn etc.
South china bleaching and dyeing factory ltd.
Section Parameters Singeing Gas pressure ,fabric speed, burner position
Desizing PH, padder pressure, batching time etc
Scouring Time and temperature , pH, fabric speed ,caustic % , padder pressure etc Bleaching Time and temperature , pH, fabric speed , H2O2%, padder pressure , absorbency etc.
Mercerization Required amount of caustic , pH ,
absorbency , density of caustic, temperature etc. Dyeing Dyes and chemical ratio ,padder pressure, time ,pick up % ,curring temperature ,ctc.
Printing Size of screen , required design, rod size,
blade size ,dryer temperature ,speed etc. Finishing Required finishing recipe, drying temperature, speed, padder pressure etc.
29 5.5 Production Description: 5.5.1 Warping: In general terms, warping is transferring many yarns from a creel of single-end packages forming a parallel sheet of yarns wound onto a beam. The warp beam that is installed on weaving machine is called the weaver’s beam. A weaver’s beam can contain several thousand ends and for different reasons it is rarely produced in one operation.
Fig 5.5.1: Direct warping machine (Benninger)
Objects of Warping: To arrange a convenient number of warp yarns of related length so that they can be collect on a single warp beam as a continuous sheet of yarns which can be used for sizingor next process. Types of Warping: Two types of yarn warping are used in weaving: 1. Direct/ High Speed Warping 2. Indirect/Sectional warping In south china Bleaching & Dyeing factory Ltd. Only Direct/ High speed warping is running.
High Speed Warping:
High speed warping also called Beam warping/Direct warping.In high speed warping the yarn is wound parallel on the warping beam. All the yarns are wound at once and simple flanged beam is used. It is a very high speed process and is used for making fabric of single color.
Parts of warping: 1.Creeling 2.Headstock
30 5.5.2 Sizing Although the quality and characteristics of the warp yarns coming out of the winding and warping processes are good, they are still not good enough for the weaving process for most of the yarns. The weaving process requires the warp yarn to be strong, smooth and elastic or extensible to a certain degree. To achieve these properties on the warp yarns, a protective coating of a polymeric film forming agent called size is applied to the warp yarns prior to the weaving this process is called slashing or sizing. Sizing is not a value added process in woven fabric manufacturing. This is because after the fabric is woven the size materials will be removed from the fabric during the finishing operation which is called desizing. The main purposes of sizing are as follows: • To increase the strength of the yarn • To reduce the yarn hairiness that would cause problems in weaving process • To increase the abrasion resistance of the yarn against other yarns and various weaving machine elements • To reduce fluff and fly during the weaving process for high speed weaving m/c
Figure 5.5.2(a): sizing machine controlling board
Sizing machine consists of a stand for one or more warper’s beams. This is known as warper’s creel. The warp passes through a size bath containing size liquor (heated to keep it at correct temperature). Excess size is removed by the squeeze rollers. Then the warp passes through a drying section. Then the individual ends, adhered to each other, are split using splitting rods before winding on weaver’s beam. Quality of sizing has a significant influence on the weaving efficiency.
31 Fig 5.5.2(b): One dip one nip size box
Figure5.5.2(c): Splitting of warp sheet
32 Fig 5.5.2(d): sizing process Benefits of Sizing:
• It prevents the warp yarn breakage due to abrasion with neighbouring yarns or with back rest, heald eye and reed. • It improves the yarn strength by 10 to 20%, although it is not the primary objective of sizing process.
Characteristics of Sized Yarn:
1 Higher strength 2. Lower elongation 3. Higher bending rigidity 4. Higher abrasion resistance 5. Lower hairiness 6. Lower frictional resistace. Sizing Chemical Used for the below construction: Recipe/Chemical Name Amount Emsize CMS : 50 Kg Emsize E-5 : 0 Emsize E-20 : 100 Kg Wax : 6 Kg Alsize: 10Kg Water : Rest of amount in Litre Total Consumption :1167 Liter Cooking time : 40 min Refraction : 13% Viscosity :(30-55)mps.
33 5.5.3 Drawing & denting: Drawing in: After sizing, the warp beam is prepared to be placed on the weaving machine. Drawing-in is to thread individual ends through weaving elements namely drop wires, heald wires and reed when starting up a new fabric style. Special stands are used to support various elements during the drawing-in process. Following the drawing-in process, the warp beam along with all the parts are transferred on to a loom. Automated drawing-in machines may be used in large weaving facilities, where automation justifies over manual drawing-in process.
Figure 5.5.3(a): Drawing-in Mechanism
After depletion of a warp beam on the weaving machine, if there will be no change in design then the drawing in process need not be repeated. The ends of the old warp beam are cut and the ends of the new warp beam are tied to the corresponding ends of the old beam which is called tying in process. Then the warp ends are pulled through the heddle eyes and reed until
34 the knots are cleared. Automatic tying-in machines are a common practice in the weaving industry.
5.5.4 Weaving: Introduction to Weaving: Weaving is the oldest and the most common method of fabric formation. In weaving, two sets of yarns often referred to as ‘warp’ (length-wise direction yarns - ends) and ‘weft’ (width-wise direction yarns - picks) are interlaced right angles to each other. Fabrics can be woven from these two sets of yarns on a simple hand loom or on a highly complex, totally automated power loom. Irrespective of whether it is a manual operation or computerized touch-screen controlled operation, the basic weaving concept is the same in both cases.
Weaving requires that the warp yarns be held under tension so that interlacing can take place easily. The simplest method of interlacing is to move the weft over the odd numbered warps and under the even numbered warps and invert this sequence for the next pick. Repeating this sequence produces the basic type of weave which is often referred to as ‘plain weave’.
Fig 5.5.4(a): basic structure of a loom
Basic Motions: Primary motions:
The three primary operations, which occur in a given sequence, are:
Shedding: It is the separation of the warp yarns, which run along the fabric length, into sheets to form an angled opening known as the shed.
Picking: Passing the weft yarn, which traverses along the fabric width, through the shed.
Beat-up: Pushing the newly inserted weft yarn (pick) into the fabric fell (this is the imaginary line where the woven fabric structure starts).
35 Fig 5.5.4(b): shedding, picking, beat up The two secondary motions are: Warp let-off motion: Warp yarn is delivered from the warp beam (weavers beam) to the weaving area at the required rate and a suitable constant tension.
Fabric take-up motion: Fabric is withdrawn from the weaving area at a constant rate in order to achieve the required pick spacing.
36 The first known concept of air jet weft insertion is by Brooks (Lancashire, England) in 1914. In 1929, Ballou (USA) developed a suction nozzle at the receiving side to complement Brooks’ insertion nozzle. First commercial air jet weaving machine was patented in 1945 by Max Paabo (Sweden), by employing guide plates to reduce air diffusion . These machines were initially manufactured by Maxbo in Sweden and subsequently by Murata- Maxbo in Japan. Around same time in Czech republic, air jet looms were developed by incorporating confusors in the shed in order to minimise air diffusion –these looms were running at1000 picks/minute. Dutch company, te Strake developed relay nozzles . This development (relay nozzles) along with profile reed has become a standard in modern air jet looms.
Fig 5.5.4(d) : Three methods for reducing air diffusion
Figure 5.5.4(e): Principle of air jet weft insertion
37 Weft insertion in commercial air jet looms:
Figure 5.5.4(f): weft insertion elements
Figure shows various components in a commercial air jet weft insertion system. Weft yarn is supplied by a weft accumulator (1) to the main nozzle. Weft accumulator stores a metered length of yarn releases during weft insertion under low (and uniform) tension. The main nozzle is supplied with ‘air jet’ by actuating high speed valve (2). Once the weft yarn enters the shed, relay nozzles (3) are actuated in small groups are actuated by high speed valves. The weft is constrained in the profile reed (4). Stretch nozzle (5) applies tension to the yarn and keeps it taught until beat- up process. First of the two optical sensors (6) detects the pick and estimates the weft flight time. Supply pressure is automatically adjusted for different yarn types, based on weft flight time. For example, filament yarns require higher pressure in comparison to spun yarns; rotor spun yarns require high pressure than ring spun yarns. In the event of a broken pick, second optical sensor will be triggered and the broken pick is extracted by the suction tube at the end.
Figure 5.5.4(g): withdrawal of relay nozzles during beat-up
Relay nozzles are mounted on the sley in such a position that they automatically move out of the shed during beat-up.
Process definition: Grey fabric inspection is the process of identifying weaving faults in the fabric just after the grey fabric production in the loom.
Equipment:
1.Inspection table (Manual)
2.Fabric inspection machine (Automatic)
Key Accessories:
Nipper, Pointer, Cutter, Comb etc.
Safety measures:
1. Smoking inside the inspection area is strictly prohibited.
2. Fire extinguishers are placed in the inspection area and all are trained to use it. 3. No fabric stack is placed in front of electric panels. Operation staff:
Here grey fabrics are inspected according to “four-point System”. It is widely used in Textiles. It is Simple & easy to understand. Inspection is done about 10% of the product in The Shipment. This system has been approved by AAMA (American Apparel Manufacturing Association). The four points system classifies defects as follows: - Size of defects Penalty 3" or less 1 point Over 3"not over 6" 2 points Over 6" but not over 9" 3 points Over 9" 4 points A maximum 4 points is charged for one linear yard.
Total point×36inch ×100
Points per 100 sq. yards =
Fabric length ×fabric width
Less than 40 points per 100sq. yds. Are acceptable level.
40 Fabric Grading: But in this stage they measure grey fabrics in 10 points per 1m2 of fabric.
Penalty point Fabric Grade
Below 6 A Below 10 B >10 Rejected
Fig 5.6.2: Fabric Inspection Machine
5.6.2 Grey fabric Faults:
In the inspection table the operator finds out faults in the fabric and analyses their intensity by visual inspection. Some of the common weaving faults are:
Fabric Faults Produced During Weaving Production:
Warp Way Defect:- 1) Warp stitching:- Occurred due to want of interlacement between warp & weft yarn which happens. If the warp threads of one shade goes to another. Faulty Dobby or Jacquard mechanism. Warp yarn if loose. Length of the harness cord is not equal. Warp is not properly sized. 2) Long float:- Causes due to If the warp yarn does not take part on interlacement Tappet is not properly tied. Peg of dobby if displaced. Jacquard harness or card cutting if defective. Worm out Reed if used.
41 3) Wrong warp threads: - Due to Drafting & Lifting. 4) Missing warp: - Causes due to: - Wrong denting. Broken warp yarn in the beam. Out of order Warp Stop motion. 5) Double warp: - Warp way makes on the fabric due to:- Wrong Reed count used. Wrong denting in the reed. 6) Loose warp: - Causes due if Loose warp exist on the beam in loop form. Yarn tension in warping if not balanced. Yarn crossed in the dropper. Size picks up unequal. 7) Knot in the Warp yarn: - if there are any knots in warp yarns. 8) Selvedge effect: - Causes due to:- If the body and selvedge warp yarn tension is unequal. If the Reed space is greater but the width of the fabric is less. Sharp temple ring spikes. 9) Weft cut at the selvedge: - due to Absent of weft yarn in the selvedge. Defective Ring temple. If the temple not properly set. 10) Templemark: - Mark on the selvedge of the fabric due to- Light fabric if course temple is used. Temple yarn. Weft way defect: - 1) Miss pick or broken pick: - Causes due to Broken pick. Yarn of pirn in finish. If weft yarn breaks at the middle. Picking mechanism occurred by empty shuttle.
2) Broken design: - If the lifting mechanism is defective.
3) Thick & thin place which is called bar on the fabric. 4) Shuttle mark:- Shuttle flies. Shuttle box if not properly set.
42 5)Weft curls:- Causes due to Shuttle box and selvedge distance is more. Yarn to more twist. If the yarn on the pirn is loose. 6) Tight pick:- If the yarns on the pirn is too tight. 7) Cracks:- Causes due to Faulty take up & let off mechanism. Worm Crank shaft bearing. Defective beating up force. 8) Bow effect:- if the pirn is not properly set. 9) Finger mark:- Weavers negligence, oil man & m/c cleaner if not careful. 10) Rest in the fabric:- If the yarn remains within from matters for long. 11) Rough surface fabric:- Causes due to Count variation If the proper tension is not utilized.eg:- Honey comb, Heike back design. 12) Dirty cloth:- Due to un mindfulness of the operative. 13) Stop Mark: Due to shut down of machine and reed.
5.7 Pre-Treatment: In preparatory department Singeing, Desizing, Scouring, Bleaching are done by continuous process through L-box and R-box machine.Here L-box and R-box scouring & bleaching reaction box are working through Pad steam method.
a. L- box machine (continuous process)
b. R-box machine (continuous process) c. Mercerizing (continuous process)
Scouring Reaction box Scouring • Pad Steam MC8R Horizontal hot • Temp:90- Horizontal wash box (3)hot Chemical Temp: wash box 100c Temp: 90c box 80-85c • Time:45- 50min
Bleaching Reaction box Horizontal • Pad Steam Bleaching wash box(3hot MC8R • Temp:100c Chemical box & a cold) Temp: • Time:45- 80-85c 50min
Horizontal hot Cylinder Dryer Rolling for
wash box(5) 32hot & 4cold next process Temp:90c
44 5.7.2 Singeing: The protruding fibers on the surface of a fabric manufactured with spun yarns may be desirable in that they impart a little softness to the fabric, but nonetheless they are seen as a nuisance.
Objective: To burn off the protruding fibers from the fabrics. ADVANTAGES - 1) Improved end use and wearing properties. 2) Clean Surface. 3) Reduced fogginess. 4) Reduced pilling. 5) Reduced Soiling.
Fig 5.7.2(a): Fabric Path Diagram Of Singing Machine (R-Box)
45 Fig 5.7.2(b):Fabric Path Diagram of Singing Machine (L-Box)
i. Fabric to gas burner distance 18 to 20 minutes.
ii. Fabric speed 120 m/min depends on fabric GSM (minimum 80-100 m/min). iii. Gas pressure depends on machine speed. iv. Singeing gas box inside temperature 50-60c.
5.7.3 De-Sizing:De-sizing is the term usually restricted to the process of removal of starch from the fabric. It is the first wet processing textile technology employed to remove the size material from the fabric. Objects of De-sizing: a) To remove the starch material from the fabric. b) To increase the absorbency power of the fabric. c) To increase the affinity of the fabric to the dry chemicals. d) To make the fabric suitable for the next process. e) To increase the luster of the fabric increase of dyeingandprinting.
47 5.7.4 Batching: After de-sizing the fabric is packed by poly bag. Then it goes for rotation for 8 to 12 hours. In this time NaOH/enzyme react with starch and decompose the sizing material. Finally Sizing material became water soluble as glucose.
Fig 5.7.4: Batching period
Chemical mixing unit:
Beside desizing unit there are two chemical tanks one of them is called reserve tank where chemical is mixed & circulated, another is storage tank where agitated chemicals are stored for using in bath. From this chemical entered in bath as for even immersion required.
Fig 5.7.4(a): Mixing tank.
48 5.7.5 Scouring:
The process to remove the fats, oil, and waxy substance and added other impurities By certain percent of alkali and which increases the absorbency power of the textile goodsiscalled scouring. Objective: a) To remove the natural as well as added impurities as completely as possible. b) To provide a clean material by adding alkali. c) To leave the material to a highly absorptive condition without undergoing any physical & chemical damage.
The main changes scouring during scouring:
a) Saponifiable oils & fatty acid are converted in to soap &peptic acid. b) Proteins are degraded into simple soluble amino acid. c) Mineral matters are dissolved. d) Dirt is removed. e) Sizing materials are broken down into soluble product.
Main chemicals of scouring:
The following chemicals are used in scouring:
a) Alkali b) Wetting agent c) Detergent d) Sequestering agent or chelating agent e) Solvent
49 Recipe for scouring that are used in south china Ltd. (L-box):
Chemicals Amount
NaOH 99% 80 g/L
Soda Ash 2.5 g/L
Rucowet CMR 5 g/L
Trisodium phosphate 1 g/L
GW-205P 1g/L 0 Temp: >90 c Pick up: 80% PH: 10-11
Pick up%: The total amount of chemical which is absorbed by fabrics. It is the ratio weight (wet fabric to dry fabric) to dry fabric and expressed in percentage. Formula: pick up % ꓿ wet – dry / dry × 100%
5.7.5.1 L-Box Parts: Reaction Box:
Here fabric is passing for proper reaction with scouring chemical like NaOH at 1000c temperature for 45-50 min. This reaction box is called L-box for this shape and working through pad steam method.
50 Fig 5.7.5: Fabric Path Diagram Of Reaction Box(L-Box)
51 Injector:The main function of injector is to force hot water at 900c to the desized fabric. And remove sizing material. Also, the rest sizing material would be broken by hot water.
Fig 5.7.5(b): Scouring Chemical bath (open)
The main purpose of MC8R is removing the residual material through hot water.
52 Fig:5.7.5(b) :Vertical Hot Wash box
Fig 5.7.5(c): Vertical hot wash box (MC8R)
53 Horizontal wash box: Ultimately the function of MC8 and horizontal are same. They are named different because of their shape.
Fig 5.7.5(d) :Horizontalwashbox
5.7.6 Bleaching Bleaching is chemical treatment system.Destructionof natural coloring matters from the fabric,increase absorbing for dyeing operation.Bleaching agents (H2O2) essentially destroy chromophores,via the oxidation or reduction of these absorbing groups. The material appears whiter after the bleaching.
Bleaching objectives:
a) Removal of colored impurities.
b) Removal of the seed coats. c) Minimum tendering of fibre. d) Technically reliable & simple mode of operation. e) Low chemical & energy consumption. f) Increasing the degree of whiteness Type of Bleaching Agents: Oxidative Bleaching Agents Reductive Bleaching Agents Enzymatic Bleaching Agents
54 Bleaching process in reaction box: The fabric taking bleaching chemical from bleaching bath than enter into the reaction box. In reaction box contain steam at 1000c temperature. Fabric needed 45- 50 min for bleaching reaction in L-box. H2O2 start reaction with grey fabric coloring materials with proper pH and temperature.
Hot Cylinder: It is used for drying purposes of wet fabric. The drying temperature were maintained at 100c.
Fig 29 :Cyliner Dryer(Drying) L-Box
Cold cylinder: Cold cylinder used for making the hot fabric into cold before rolling of the final fabric.
55 Titration process for scouring: Instruments: Burette, Pipette, Beaker etc.
Formula: cons. NaOH(gm/L)=N.H2SO4×V.H2SO4×40/V.NaOH solution taken
• 1ml mixer solution or chemical solution is taken from scouring bath.
• 2-3 drops phenolphthalein indicator is taken. • For titration 0.5 N H2SO4 is used. • The number of drops of 0.5 N H2SO4 is used to calculate the amount of NaOH present in the scouring box.
Titration process for Bleaching:
Reagent:
i. 100 cc water ii. H2SO4 (20%) iii. 0.1 N KMnO4 Formula: Conc. Of H2O2 (g/l) = N. KMnO4 × V.of KMnO4 × 17/ Vol.of H2O2 taken Procedure: i. 1ml mixer solution or chemical solution is taken. ii. Adding H2SO4 (20%) iii. Taking 0.1 N K2MnO4 in a burette iv. The number of drops of 0.1N KMnO4 is used to calculate the readings until the solution turns in to light pink color.
Bleaching Fabric Test: Column
Test:
i. Full width of fabric is immersed on water for 30 min.
If the fabric absorbed water within 8-9 cm then the bleaching is done but if the fabric absorbed more >8-9 cm than bleaching is improper.
Capillary Test: • Bleached fabric is immersed into water below 3 cm for 5 min. • ii. If it was absorbed water within 40 mm than bleaching is properly done otherwise is improper.
56 5.7.7 Mercerization: Mercerizing: Mercerization is a process for increasing absorbency, strength, andlusture of the fabric by physical-chemical treatment. Mercerization is carried out for the following purpose:
1. Improving lusture (silky look, in tension mercerization only).
2. Improving tensile strength. 3. Improved dimensional stability. 4. Increasing uniformity of dyeing & improving color yield (savings in dyestuff). 5. Improving Elasticity or Stretch material (in slack mercerization only).
Recipe :
NaOH( g/ l ) Process 180 For peach 240 Dyeing flat fabric 100 Dyeing T/C fabric
↓ 5 Hot wash(open) ↓ Horizontal wash box(900c)(7) ↓ Neutralization by CH3COOH(pH 5-6) ↓ Cylinder dryer (30 hot & 6 cold) ↓ Rolling
Mercerizing Machine parts:
• Air Can • Chain system • Wash box • Neutralizing chamber
58 Fig 5.7.7.2 : Mercerizing chain.
5.7.7.2 Mercerization Test
BariumActivity Number Test: Barium activities test is done to know about the increasing % of absorbency of fabric & depth of lusture.By Barium activity we can also see that, after mercerizing remaining wax,oil& other impurities are removed & strength is increased. The Barium Activity Number is given as: BAN = (B-M) / (B-C)*100 Where B = Volume of HCl (ml) required for blank titration M = Volume of HCl (ml) required with mercerized. Cotton C= Volume of HCl (ml) required with un-mercerized cotton . For completely mercerized cotton the value of BAN is around 155 and for semi mercerized cotton it varies in between 115 and 130.
59 5.8 Dyeing: Dyeing is the process of imparting colors to a textile material through a dye (colour). Dyes are obtained from flowers, nuts, berries and other forms of vegetables and plants as well as from animal and mineral sources. These are known as natural dyes.
The other class of dyes is known as synthetic dyes. These are based on a particular type of chemical composition. Some of these dyes are- Acid (Anionic) dyes, Basic (Cationic) dyes, Neutral- Premetalized dyes, sulfur dyes, vat dyes, reactive dyes, pigment dyesetc. Woven dyeing: Woven fabric is produced with interlacement of warp and weft yarn. The importance of woven fabrics increases constantly. Starting from traditional uses mainly in clothing applications, woven fabrics today are key materials for structural, electronic, telecommunications, medical, aerospace and other technical application fields. Woven fabric dyeing process is different from knit fabric dyeing process. CPB/Thermosol/Jigger dyeing machine is used in woven dyeing. Dyeing types: There are four types of dyeing,
Fiber Dyeing Yarn Dyeing Fabric Dyeing Garment Dyeing Dyes/pigment used in woven dyeing (south china Ltd.) i. Reactive dyes ii. Vat dyes iii. Disperse dyes iv. Pigment dyes Here we discussed about woven fabric dyeing with different dyeing method by reactive, vat, disperse, and pigment dyes. In south china there are three types of process are used like
i. Cold pad batch (CPB)
ii. Thermosol process iii. Jigger
60 5.8.1 Cold pad batch: It is the simple & easiest way of woven fabric dyeing. In this process only dark shade can be produced successfully & economically. But limitation is medium or light shade is difficult to match. It takes a long time because after dyeing it required batching for 8 to 12 hours.
Process flow of cold pad batch:
J-Trey ↓ Cooling room (17-200c) ↓ Dye bath ↓ Bleaching (10-12hr) ↓ Open bath ↓ Wash box – (900c) ↓ Soap wash -2(900c) ↓ H P Control ↓ Cold wash ↓ Cylinder drying ↓ Cold cylinder ↓ Rolling Recipe for Reactive dyeing:
Dyes/ChemicalDyes/ Chemical Amount
Novacron Blue TSGC 13.30 g/L
Levafix Amber CAN 6.60 g/L
Novacron Red C2Bl 2.80 g/L
61 Caustic soda (38Be) 6.10 g/L
Soda 20 g/L
Urea 50 g/L
FFC 1 g/L
Dyes: Chemical 4:1
Fabric construction 128×60B
Properties: i. Flexible dyeing of short slots. ii. Even coloration. iii. Maximum dyestuff yield. iv. Fast slot &color change. v. Minimum rest liquor. vi. Reproducibility of shade. vii. Speed: - 60 yads/min
5.8.2 Process Description with machine Steps:
Fabric inlet: After mercerizing, batcher is feed into the inlet of CPB machine. Where the fabric is passed over some free roller & guider. Here there is a compensator to control fabric open width entry & controlling fabric speed.
Fig 5.8.2(a) : Fabric entry in CPB
62 Mixing Tank: Here dyes and chemical are mixed separately that was going to the dye bath for fabric dyeing with required condition. Dye Bath: Here chemical comes from storage tank to maintain even range on padding tank. Here three bowl padding is occurred. Padding pressure is predetermined according to pick up required & fabric speed. Dyes and chemical are mixed here at 4:1 ranges.
Fig 5.8.2(b): Dye color padder
Batching: After padding fabric is directly rolled in to batcher& packed with poly bag. Then it goes for rotation of 8 – 12 hours for color fixing.
Hot Wash:
After batching the fabric need to proper wash. That’s why it was wash by wash box at 900c temperature for four times.
Soap wash: After hot the next process is soap wash. The soap is GW-420P.
PH control: After washing, neutralization is done to control pH-7 of fabric. It is done by acetic acid. For reactive only one neutralizing chamber is used after washing. Here oxidation is not required. Cylinder Drying: 0 Finally, the wet fabric need to drying for rolling. Cylinder temperature is 100 c. Then rolling is done.
63 Typical Reactive dyes:
SL Color Name
1. Novacron Red -2G
2. Novacron Yellow C-5G
3. Colvazol Brill. Blue KN-RXN
4. Dychufix Black B H/C
5. Novacron DEEP Orange S-4R
6. Novacron Red C-2BL
7. LEVAFIX RED CA-N
8. BEZATIVE VIOLET V-5R
9. DYCHUFIX TURQUISE BLUE G
H/C 10. Novacron DEEP CHERRY S-D
5.8.3Thermosol Process: Thermosol dyeing machine helps to improve production capacity. It does not required rotation after padding. It must feed on pad steam for fixation just after dyeing which gives finished product. By thermosol process, there are sever types of dyeing are possible-
i. Vat dyeing ii. Disperse dyeing (pad steam) iii. Pigment dyeing iv.Tc dyeing It is a continuous process for dyeing a process. Production is higher than any other dyeing process. So it is popular dyeing process in woven factory.
64 5.8.4 Process Flow Chart:
Bruch Fabric
Dye Bath
IR
Curing Chamber
Cooling Fan
Chemical bath
Pad Steam
Wash (Open bath)
Oxidation (H2O2)
Airing
Soap wash (80c)
Cold wash
PH control
Cold wash
Cylinder drying
Rolling
65 5.8.5 Vat dyeing Chemical Recipe: For Light shade:
Chemical Amount for 400L
NaCl 20 kg NaOH 11.5 kg Hydrose 21.5 kg
Table For medium shade:
Chemical Amount for 400L NaCl 20 kg NaOH 14 kg Hydrose 26.4 kg
Table For Dark shade:
Chemical Amount for 400L
NaCl 20 kg
NaOH 20 kg
Hydrose 35 kg
5.8.6 T/C Fabric Discharge Recipe:
Chemical name Amount
Caustic soda 28 g/L Hydrose 50 g/L Oxalic acid 12 g/L Soda ash 10 g/L Tri sodium phosphate 20 g/L GW-425p 20 g/L
66 Typical Vat dyes: SL Dyes
1. KEDANTHREN OLIVET
2. MIKETHREN BROWN GS
3. MIKETHREN BROWN M S/F
4. BEZATHREN OLIVE GREEN MW PS
5. INDANTREN VIOLET B COLLOISOL
6. TECHTREN OLIVE 5GF
7. BEZACTIVE BROWN BGR
8. TECHTREN YELLOW
9. TECHTREN RED
10. KEDANTHREN BROWN
5.8.7 Operational procedure:
Fabric inlet section: After mercerizing batcher is feed into the inlet of thermosolmachine.Where the fabric is passed over some free roller, parpet roller & platter. Here there is a compensator to control fabric open width entry & controlling fabric speed.
Chemical Mixing tank:
In thermosol machine only dye stuff & wetting agent & migrating agent is used. Dyes are dissolved separately from wetting & migrating agent then all are forced to chemical storage tank as required & agitated for proper mixing.
Fig 5.8.7: Chemical mixing tank
67 Dye bath: Here chemical comes from storage tank to maintain even range on padding tank. Here three bowl padding is occurred. During padding the most common problem of dyeing "listing problem” can be solved by adjusting pressure on left, right & middle of padder. The layer of dyes keeps up to 50 liter& automatically dyes is come to dye bath. Padderpressure is generally, 1.6, 2.5, 1.6. Padder Brand Nanme: Kuster Origin: Germany Control Panel:From control panel all types of instruction can be provide to the machinery. This machine has a full manual control panel. The operator controls every process by control switch.
Fig 5.8.7(a) : Control Panel
Infrared Radiation: After airing zone fabric pass over some free roller then enter in IR dryer. It is called pre dryer. Here temperature is around 650-750'C.it can differ based on fabric speed & type of fabric is processing. In thermosol there are two IR unit & each contain two heating zone (flamer). Here fabric is dried up to 40%.
Hot air flow drying unit: Fabric comes to this unit after predrying. Here there are three unit of heating. Each contains two heaters (gas type) & two blower. Temperature is taken is around 120- 130'C. If this flamer & blower is not work properly it will create listing problem. Here there are few additional options like humidity control unit & cleaning unit. When pad dry cure is performed in thermosol then humidity must be controlled. If it can control, no need to use urea. Fabric contains different types of dust so when hot water is blown it can make problem in heater & blower. So there is a screen unit so that dust cannotgo in blower or heater. Smaller particles can be taken out trough duct & release to environment. Here 30-35 meters fabric is remained.
68 Fig 5.8.7(b) :Curing chamber
Curing chamber:
After drying the fabric is passed through curing chamber. Here the fabric is heated from 0 150170'C in case of reactive & in case of disperse 180-210 c. In this chamber there are four layer of roller. And in this roller 80-85 meter fabric is remain for proper heating & fixing the color of fabric. Cooling Can: After hot air flow drying fabric require a cooling. So fabric is passed over the cooling roller. It is a stainless steel roller through which cold water is passed. There are two cooling roller. J-BOX: It is a space for keeping fabric. When the batch is completed, it is needed to change & another empty batch roller is to be settled. Due to continuous dyeing process it is not possible to stop the m/c. So during changing batch roller the fabric is stored in J-BOX. And when new empty batch roller is settled, then the fabric is started to batching.
Fig 5.8.7(b): J-Box
69 Chemical Bath:
Now fabric enters into the chemical bath. In chemical bath containing Hydrose, NaOH, Na2CO3, NaCl, GW425. After taking chemical fabric enter into steam chamber.
Steam chamber: 0 Here reducing of vat dye occurred at 100 c temperature and present of reducing chemical hydrose and steam are passing through the chamber. Re- Oxidation: At the present of H2O2 Re oxidation occurred of vat dye due to fixation of vat dye into the fabric permanently.
5.8.8 Testing required during Thermosol operation:
After each 1000 meter shade is tested in light box. Here listing problem is visualized & can be solved by increasing or decreasing left, centre or right padder pressure. Suppose in left color is lighter then lower the pressure of left side.
Fig 5.8.7(c): Shade listing identification.
70 Exhaust Process: Dyeing (Exhaust) is a chemical process by which textile substrates are immersed in liquor containing dyestuffs & chemicals by which the dyestuffs are transferred to textile substrates in a proper manner.
Objectives:
A dye trough design ensuring minimum possible liquor ratio
Fabric rope monitoring control system for precise calculation and control of the fabric speed and tension. Uniform dyeing conditions in the dye trough depend of the batch size. Water meter controlled rinsing.
dosing of dyes and chemicals dependent on the fabric length passing through the dye bath The exhaust process is done in jigger dyeing m/c which can be called pressurized jigger m/c.
5.8.9 Jigger Dyeing:
Jigg or jigger dyeing machineis one of the oldest dyeing machines used for cloth dyeing operations. Jigger machine is suitable for dyeing of woven fabrics, up to boiling temperature without any creasing. Jigs exert considerable lengthwise tension on the fabric and are more suitable for the dyeing of woven than knitted fabrics. Since the fabric is handled in open-width, a jig is very suitable for fabrics which crease when dyed in rope form.
Fig 5.8.9: Jigger dyeing machine
71 Some wovens are conveniently dyed on jigger are :
• Taffettas • Plain wovens • Satins • Poplins • Ducks • Suiting and Shirting material. • Sheetings etc. But have limited application on fabrics which are tension sensitive such as crepes, flat crepes, knits, net fabrics and elastomeric warps etc.
5.8.10 Dyeing Process by Jigger Dyeing Machine:
The dyeing process on jigger is regarded as a series of intermittent padding operation followed by dwelling periods on the main roller, during which the dyeing action and diffusion takes place.
The factors controlling the rate of dye absorption are:
The amount of interstitial dye liquor retained in the interstices of the fabric weaves. The exhaustion of the interstitial liquor in the dwell period between successive immersions. The degree of interchange of liquor during one immersion (interchange factor).
In the dyeing on jigger machinesthe cloth revolves on two main rollers , The open- width fabric passes from one roller through the dyebath at the bottom of the machine and then onto a driven take-up roller on the other side. When all the fabric has passed through the bath, the direction is reversed. Each passage is called an end. Dyeing always involves an even number of ends. The dye bath has one or more guide rollers, around which the cloth travels, and during this immersion
72 achieves the desired contact with the dye liquor. During this passage the fabric picks up adequate quantity of dye liquor , excess of which is drained out but still a good quantity is held in the fabric . During rotation of rollers this dye penetrates and diffuses into the fabric. The real dyeing takes place not in the dye liquor but when the cloth is on the rollers, since only a very small length of fabric is in the dyebath and major part is on the rollers .Therefore the speed of cloth during immersion in dye liquor has a very little effect on percentage of shade produced.
Some critical problems related to the conventional jigger dyeing machines (which are minimized in the modern-day machines) The major problems are side-to-centre color variations, called listing, and lengthways color variations, called ending. Other problems are:
• Temperature control from side-to-side and end-to-end of the roll
• Tension control from end-to-end • Constant speed control from end-to-end • Prevention of creases • Prevention of air
5.8.11 Limitations of Jigger Dyeing:
1. Jigs exert considerable lengthwise tension on the fabric and are more suitable for the dyeingof woven than knitted fabrics. 2. In textile preparation due to the swelling and dissolution of size, which makes the fabric slippery and unstable in roll form? 3. The low liquor ratio makes washing-off difficult. 4. There is little mechanical action in a jig machine and it is less suitable where vigorous scouring is required before dyeing. 5. Moiré effects or water marks may arise on some acetate and nylon fabrics because of pressure flattening the structure of the rolled fabric. 5.8.12 Typical Dyeing Faults:
Color uneven Long stripe Color line Knots, slub White spot Color spot Sewing spot Yellow bar Crease mark Listing
73 5.8.13 Solution of dyeing fault: Different types of fault can arise during dyeing which can be solved by the following process.
▪ Topping ▪ Stripping Topping: In dying process firstly the color is matched in lab in it comes to production.During, production at first a sample is run. If it match then goes for production. But still few problems arise after few meters due to uneven picking shade is varied from original one. It becomes lighter or darker. Some times more reddish or greenish. This type of problem is solved by topping.If the shade is lighter then addition is done & darker dilution can be done. But during topping the ratio of dye & chemical is 1:4.
5.9 Textile Printing:
Textile printinginvolves the production of a predetermined colored pattern on a fabric, usually with a definite repeat. It can be described as a localized form of dyeing, applying colorant to selected areas of the fabric to build up the design. Textile Printing, like Textile dyeing, is a process for applying color to a substrate. However, instead of coloring the whole substrate (cloth, carpet or yarn) as in dyeing, print color is applied only to defined areas to obtain the desired pattern. This involves different techniques and different machinery with respect to dyeing, but the physical and chemical processes that take place between the dye and the fiber are analogous to dyeing.
Fig 5.9 : Rotary screen Roller
74 5.9.1 PigmentPrinting:
Pigment printing has gained much importance today and for some fibers (e.g. cellulose fibers) is by far the most commonly applied technique. Pigments can be used on almost all types of textile substrates and, thanks to increased performance of modern auxiliaries; it is now possible to obtain high-quality printing using this technique. Pigmentprinting pastes contain a thickening agent, a binder and, if necessary, other auxiliaries such as fixing agents, plasticizers, defoamers, etc. White spirit-based emulsions, used in the past as thickening systems, are used only occasionally today (mainly half-emulsion thickeners). After applying the printing paste, the fabric is dried and then the pigment is normally fixed with hot air (depending on the type of binder in the formulation, fixation can also be achieved by storage at 20°C for a few days). The advantage of pigment printing is that the process can be done without subsequent washing (which, in turn, is needed for most of the other printing techniques).
Printing Paste Preparation:
Dye Printing process traditionally starts with the preparation of the paste. Compared to pigment printing, the composition of the pastes is more complex and variable, being determined not by the dye used, but by the printing technique, the substrate, the application and the fixation methods applied. Apart from the dye, printing pastes contain a thickening agent and various other auxiliaries, which can be classified according to their function as follows:
Reducingagents(e.g. sodium dithionite, formaldehyde sulphoxylates, thiourea dioxide, tin(II) chloride) Discharging agents for discharge printing (e.g. anthraquinone) Substances with a hydrotropic effect, like urea Dye solubiliters, which are polar organic solvents like glycerine, ethylen glycol, butyl glycol, thio-di-glycol, etc. Resists for reactive resist printing(e.g. sulphonated alkanes)
Defoamers, (e.g. silicon compounds, organic and inorganic esters, aliphatic esters, etc.).All the necessary ingredients are metered (dosed) and mixed together in a mixing station. Since between 5 and 10 different printing pastes are usually necessary to print a single pattern (in some cases up to 20 different pastes are applied), in order to reduce losses, due to incorrect measurement, the preparation of the pastes is done in automatic stations. In modern plants, with the help of special devices, the exact amount of printing paste require is determined and prepared in continuous mode for each printing position, thus reducing leftovers at the end of the run.
75 It is common practice in many printing houses to filter the printing pastes before application, using for example a filter cloth. This operation is especially important for thickeners to prevent free particles from blocking the openings of the screens.
76 Some people think rotary screen print is flat printing process because the substrates are usually flat and decorated in a horizontal position. Rotary screen printing is also related with piece decorating applications where individual sheets of substrate are printed one by one, usually on semi and three-quarter-automatic flatbed presses that require manual loading or unloading. So far throughput continues to be limited because every sheet of substrate still must pause at each printing station to receive the icon. The good news is that you don’t have tosacrifice the remuneration of screen print to overcome the limits of flatbed printing technology. For many applications requiring competent, high volume, high quality printing and rotary screen print may be the best answer. In rotary printing the web movements at a constant speed between the screen and a steel impression roller immediately below the screen. As the web passes through the rotary unit the screen spin at a rate that identically matches the speed of substrate movement.
Fig 5.9.2 : Rotary screen printing
The squeegee on a rotary press is in a fixed position with its edge making contact with the inside surface of the screen accurately at the point where the screen, substrate, and impression roller come together.
77 Characteristics of Rotary Print Screen:
1. It’s very easy to screen print, on the material
2. Not required to skilled labor for screen print. 3. Print screen help designer to develop the system 4. Not required to much time for screen print, 5. It’s not hazardous for screen print, 6. Relief printing option
Machine Specification:
Attribute Name Value
Product Category Printing
Machine Category Vertical Screen Print Machine
Product Model Based on Manufacturer
Origin China
Capacity 18
Production Capacity 300 M/M
Squeezer Blade/ Rod
Printing Techniques by Rotary Screen Print :
Fig 5.9.2(a): Screen Print
78 Therefore, as the printing techniques using ink is squeeze by pressure from the inside of the cylindrical mesh by way of a rubber squeegee, it exits through the open mesh that was masked during the photo coverage. The printing techniques using ink used in this process are quite opaque and rich colors are achievable. It is important that the printing techniques using ink is fully dry before the paper reaches the next print station and ensuring no show through or smudging of the inks from the color underneath. It does have the benefit of being cheaper, due chiefly to it being a continuous print process and rotary screen print is applicable for t-shirt, shirt design, relief printing and t shirt designs. To make printing colorful we need to buy Multicolor Screen Printing Machine.
Typical Pigment used:
SL Pigment
1. HELIZARIN GREEN-FFBT
2. SILIAN G-13 SERISE
3. IMPERON YELLOW
4. QUALIPERON RED
5. BEZAFLUOR VIOLET
6. IMPERON BLACK
7. QUALIPERON BLACK
5.10 Textile Finishing:
Textile Finishing is a process used in manufacturing of f5iber, fabric, or clothing. In order to impart the required functional properties to the fiber or fabric, it is customary to subject the material to different type of physical and chemical treatments. For example wash and wear finish for a cotton fabric is necessary to make it crease free or wrinkle free. In a similar way, mercerising,singeing, flame retardant, water repellent, water proof, antistatic finish, peach finish etc are some of the important finishes applied to textile fabric.
Broadly it can be classified into following classes, which are used individually or in combination with each other. (Other terms are also used such as wet finishing, dry finishing,,durablefinishsesandnondurable finishses).
79 Finishing Types: A. physical / mechanical: a. Sanforizing b. Brushing c. Ironing
B. Chemical finishes: Teflon Water proff /repellency White Pigment PU coating Non brand Teflon Paper touch Moisture management Strome finish Anti-electrostatic Stiff finish
5.10.1 Stenter Machine:
A machine is stretching or stentering fabrics. The purpose of the stenter machine is to bringing the length and width to pre determine dimensions and also for heat setting and it is used for applying finishing chemicals and also shade variation is adjusted. The main function of the stenter is to stretch the fabric widthwise and to recover the uniform width.
Fig 5.10.1: Stenter Machine
80 Functions of Stenter Machines:
1. Heat setting is done by the stenter for lycra fabric, synthetic and blended fabric. 2. Width of the fabric is controlled by the stenter. 3. Finishing chemical apply on fabric by the stenter. 4. Loop of the knit fabric is controlled. 5. Moisture of the fabric is controlled by the stenter. 6. Spirility controlled by the stenter. 7. GSM of the fabric is controlled by stenter. 8. Fabric is dried by the stentering process. 9. Shrinkage property of the fabric is controlled. 10. Curing treatment for resin, water repellent fabric is done by the stenter
Working Procedure of Stenter Machine:
The fabric is collected from the batcher to the scray and then it is passed through the padders where the finishes are applied and sometimes shade variation is corrected.The fabric is entered into the mahlo (weft straigtner) the function of the mahlo is to set the bow and also weave of the fabric is gripped by the clips and pins are also provided but the pins has a disadvantage that they pins make holes at the selvedge but the stretchning of the pins are greater than the clips.these clips and pins are joined to endless chain.there are 8 to 10 chambers provided on the machine each chamber contains a burner and filters are provided to separate dust from air.the circulating fans blow air from the base to the upper side and exhaust fans sucks all the hot air within the chambers. Attraction rollers ar provided to stretch the warp yarn. After stentering we can increase the width of the fabric up to 1.5-2 inch.The speed of the machine is about 7-150 m/min.3 meters fabric can run in each chamber.temperature is adjusted that according to the fabric as for,
PC 210 c Cotton 110-130 c
After dyeing 160-170c and print 130-140c.
5.10.2 Sanforizing Machine:
The machine used for the sanforizing process is called "Sanforizing Machine". Sanforizing Machine means a machine consisting of a large steam-heated cylinder, an endless, thick, woolen felt blanket which is in close contact with the cylinder for most of its perimeter, and an electrically heated shoe which presses the cloth against the blanket while the latter is in a stretched condition as it curves around feed-in roll.
81 Sanforizing Process: Sanforizing is a mechanical finishing process of treating textile fabrics to prevent the normal dimensional alternation of warp and weft. It is also called anti-shrinkage finishing process. It is a process of treatment used for cotton fabrics mainly and also for some other textiles made from natural and synthetic fibres. It is a method of stretching, shrinking and fixing the woven cloth in both length and width, before cutting and producing to reduce the shrinkage which would otherwise occur after wash.
Fig 5.10.2(a) : Schematic diagram of Sanforizing machine
Principle
Sanforizing process is based on the principle that when an elastic felt blanket is passed around a metal roller in contact with it, its outer surface is process extended and the inner surface contracted. So the process is called controlled compressive shrinkage process. The process of sanforizing includes the stretching and manipulation of the fabric before it is washed. During the sanforization process, the fabric is fed into a sanforizing machine where it is treated with water or steam to promote shrinkage, then pressed against a heated rubber band to relax and re-contract the fibers. The amount of potential wash shrinkage must be determined prior to shrinking. A full width sample is wash-tested according to the test method. After the lengthwise and width wise shrinkage has been determined, the compressive shrinkage machine can be adjusted accordingly. The cloth is continually fed into the sanforizing machine and therein moistened with either water or steam. A rotating cylinder presses a rubber sleeve against another, heated,
82 rotating cylinder. Thereby the sleeve briefly gets compressed and laterally expanded, afterwards relaxing to its normal thickness. The cloth to be treated is transported between rubber sleeve and heated cylinder and is forced to follow this brief compression and lateral expansion, and relaxation. It thus gets shrunk. The greater the pressure applied to the rubber sleeve, the bigger the shrinking afterwards. The process may be repeated.
Schematic Process The process of Sanforizing can be described by the following schematic below:
Fig 5.10.2(b): Sanforizing process
• Fabric (F) passes through the skyer (S) or other moistening device and is moistened by water and/or steam. This will lubricate the fibers and promote shrink ability within the fabric. • Fabric is moistened in such a way that every single thread achieves a moisture content of approximately 15%. • Above step allows compression of the fabric with very little resistance.
• When the fabric passes through the clip expander (C), we obtain the required width. The clip expander also transports the fabric to the most important part of the machine: the rubber belt unit (indicated by arrows in above figure).
• In the close-up of above figure, we see the endless rubber belt (R). By squeezing rubber belt (R) between pressure roll (P) and rubber belt cylinder (RB), we obtain an elastically stretching of the rubber belt surface. • The more we squeeze the rubber belt, the more the surface is stretched. This point of squeezing is known as the pressure zone, or the nip point.
83 • Fabric (F) is now fed into the pressure zone. • When leaving the pressure zone, the rubber belt recovers itself and the surface returns to its original length carrying the fabric with it. The effect of this action is a shorting of the warp yarn which packs the filling yarns closer together. At this actual moment, shrinkage occurs. • After compaction within the rubber belt unit, the fabric enters the dryer (D). Here the fibers are locked in their shrunken state by removing the moisture from the fabric. • After the compressive shrinkage process is completed, another sample of the fabric is taken. This sample is also wash-tested. The final result of this test must meet the Sanforized Standard, in length and width before it may carry the Sanforized label. • All Sanforized Licensees are contractually obligated to follow the required test method and meet the standards set forth by The Sanforized Company. • 5.10.3 Sueding/Brushing Finishing Process: Sueding is a mechanical finishing processin which a fabric is abraded on one or both sides to raise or create a fibrous surface. This operation is often carried out before the raising process to reduce the friction between the fibres making up the cloth and consequently to facilitate the extraction of the fibre end.
The sueding process is carried out on both sides of the fabric and modifies the appearance and the final hand of the cloth; when touched it gives a soft and smooth sensation similar to the one given by a peach-grain surface.
The sueding machineis made up of some rotating rollers coated with abrasive paper, which emerise the cloth and produce a more or less marked effect depending upon the pressure exerted on the fabric by the abrasive rollers. The abrasive paper used can vary according to the desired sueding degree and must be replaced after a given number of operating hours, or when it does not properly carry out suitably the sueding function. In some cases, it is possible to use also metal rollers with the surface coated with uneven and rough grains or pumice rollers performing an excellent sueding action on both dry or wet fabrics. For a very superficial sueding, the natural abrasive power of pumice can be applied with successful results.
Fig 5.10.3: Sueding machine
84 Sueding Finishing Process: Sueding is a mechanical finishing processin which a fabric is abraded on one or both sides to raise or create a fibrous surface. This operation is often carried out before the raising process to reduce the friction between the fibres making up the cloth and consequently to facilitate the extraction of the fibre end. The sueding process is carried out on both sides of the fabric and modifies the appearance and the final hand of the cloth; when touched it gives a soft and smooth sensation similar to the one given by a peach-grain surface.Thesuedingmachineis made up of some rotating rollers coated with abrasive paper, which emerise the cloth and produce a more or less marked effect depending upon the pressure exerted on the fabric by the abrasive rollers. The abrasive paper used can vary according to the desired sueding degree and must be replaced after a given number of operating hours, or when it does not properly carry out suitably the sueding function. In some cases, it is possible to use also metal rollers with the surface coated with uneven and rough grains or pumice rollers performing an excellent sueding action on both dry or wet fabrics. For a very superficial sueding, the natural abrasive power of pumice can be applied with successful results. Gray fabrics as well as dyed ones can be subjected to the sueding process; the cloth to be emerised must be completely free from any finishing resin or adhesive substance remaining on the fabric surface after desizing. The sueding process reduces mechanic and dynamometric resistance of the fabric, thus making it more subject to tearing and seaming. The fabric can run at different speeds inside the sueding unit; a smooth pressure is kept thanks to two balancing arms assembled at the entry and at the exit of the unit. The pieces of cloth must be sewn with abrasion-resistant material such as polyester or nylon. The gears must be suitably cleaned with compressed air jets since the presence of pile residues could clog the ball bearings or drop again on the fabric surface thus creating some problems with dyeing machines filters. The sueding process, which can affect the fabric with a very wide range of effects, can give some problem when applied to knitted tubular goods but it.s widely used on woven fabrics with different weights and weaves (its application ranges from coarse jeans cloth to light and delicate silk or microfibre, coated fabrics and imitation leather). The sueding unit is equipped with 6 rollers performing the sueding action on the face of the fabric and 1 roller performing its action of the back of the fabric; an advantage of this system is the possibility to use sueding cloths with different grains on each single roller. Thanks to three dandy rollers, the sueding action can be automatically adjusted during the fabric processing thus allowing the sueding process to be carried out also on knitted goods. Monthly average production: 1. Goldtex ltd. →2 million (yds) / month 2. South china →4 million (yds)
85 CHAPTER SIX
Quality Assurance
6.0 Quality: Quality is a measure of excellence or a state of being free from defects, deficiencies and significant variations. It is brought about by strict and consistent commitment to certain standards that achieve uniformity of a product in order to satisfy specific customer or user requirements. 6.1 Quality Assurance: Quality assurance (QA) is a way of preventing mistakes or defects in manufactured products and avoiding problems when delivering solutions or services to customers. Quality assurance comprises administrative and procedural activities implemented in a quality system so that requirements and goals for a product, service or activity will be fulfilled. It is the systematic measurement, comparison with a standard, monitoring of processes and an associated feedback loop that confers error prevention.
Quality assurance Objectives:
Overall material/product loss (Level of rejection) for the company during the production process (in a year) shall not exceed 1.5 % Process capability shall be maximized by maximizing the m/c breakdown time. M/c breakdown time should be reduced to 20 % from its current status/position. A quality procedure manual in line with the requirement of ISO9001 shall be developed and implemented. To ensure better work environment for the personnel working in the organization.
Inspection Area: 1. Grey fabric inspection 2. Dyed fabric inspection 3. Finished fabric inspection 4. In process inspection
6.1.1 Quality Assurance Procedure: South China Bleaching & Dyeing Factory Ltd. assures the quality of their products in the following three steps:
• In Laboratory • In Dyeing section • In Finishing section
86 Quality Assurance Procedure in Laboratory: Various tests are conducted to ensurewhether the sample meets the required quality as per buyer requirements or not. Mostly practiced tests are- 1. Abrasion & Pilling Test 2. Tear Testing 3. Thread Evaluation Testing 4. Tensile Strength Testing 5. Rubbing Fastness Testing 6. Fabric Shrinkage Test 7. Wrinkle Recovery Test 8. Crease Recovery Test 9. Yarn Count Test 10. Perspiration Test 11. Absorbency Test 12. Water Repellency Test.
Quality Assurance Procedure in Dyeing Section: The quality of a dyed fabric mainly indicates how closely its shed matches with the buyer’s swatch. Shed checking is done in 2 ways- 1. In Process Shed Checking: The fabric being dyed in a continuous process is checked after every 500 yards (approximately) to check any shed variation. 2. Finished Product Shed Checking: An appropriate piece of fabric is cut from the finished product and is matched under the CMC with the buyer’s swatch.
Corrective measures are taken if there is any shed variation.
Quality Assurance Procedure in Finishing Section: The finished product is checked thoroughly to ensure fault free product i.e. quality product. To assure quality the following parameters are checked- Shed- It should be ensured that even after the application of finishing chemicals the shed matches with the swatch. GSM- Required GSM is assured of the finished fabric. Slight change in the GSM is possible by the application of Stenter machine. Dimensional stability- Proper Dimensional stability is assured in the finished fabric. For this purpose, a certain piece of finished fabric is washed under certain criteria to check whether the fabric is dimensionally stable or not. Fastness properties- Different fastness properties are checked to maintain a certain level of fastness as per buyer’s requirement.
Fabric is inspected to determine its acceptability from a quality view point. There are various fabric inspection system such as- • 4- point system • 10- point system • 2.5- point system etc.
88 4-Point System: The 4- point system is widely used for fabric inspection, in the united states it is known as AAMA point grading system (AAMA- American Apparel manufacturers association).
Procedure of Four Point System:
1. Fabric inspection is usually done on fabric inspection machineries. These machineries are designed so that rolls of fabric can be mounted behind the inspection table under adequate light and re-rolled as they leave the table. Inspection machineries are either power driver or the inspector pulls the fabric over the inspection table. 2. The defects are located, marked and recorded on an inspection form. 3. Some machinery is equipped to measure the length of each roll of fabric (meter/yard).
Fig 6.1.2: Inspection machine
Fabric defects point values based on the following:
Length of defect in Fabric Points allotted
Up to 3 inches 1
Over 3 inches up to 6 inches 2
Over 6 inches up to 9 inches 3
Over 9 inches 4
Holes and Opening
Hole in any place in 1-yard fabric 4
89 Grading system:
Point % /roll →28 point →Average grade
→20 point → A grade Sometimes varies with buyer requirement. such as H&M → 24/18 % C&A →25/20 %
Calculations and Result:
Total defect points per 100 yards square are calculated.
If fabric roll contains less than 40 points per 100-yard square are considered “first” quality and as an Acceptance criterion.
If fabric rolls containing more than 40 points per 100 yards square are considered “second”. Example: A fabric roll of 130 yard long and 45 inch wide contains the following defects: -
6 defects up to 3 inches- ...................................6 X 1 = 6 points
5 defects over 3 inches but less 6 inches- ............. 5 X 2 = 10 points 2 defects over 6 inches but less 9 inches- ..............3 X 2 = 6 points 1 defects over 9 inches- ....................................1 X 4 = 4 points 1 hole over 1inch dimensions- .......................1 X 4 = 4 points ……………………………………………………………………………………… Total defect points= 30 points Therefore, Points per 100 yards square =
Total points scored in roll X 36 inch
……………………………………………………………… X 100 Fabric width/inches X Total length yard inspected
30 X 36 = ……………………… X 100 130X 45
= 18.4 (Defect points per 100 yards square.)
So, the roll is accepted.
90 Check sheet or Inspection Format:
To record or to collect defects during inspection we must use a simple check sheet. A check sheet includes general details, details of fabric lot, fabric defects according to their sizes, summary of fabric defects, quantity inspected and total penalty points and result of the fabric lot after inspection. Use tally marking for recording of number of defects. A sample 4-point system fabric inspection format has been attached at the bottom.
6.1.3 Types of defects found in finished fabric:
Fabric checker should know common defects found in fabrics and he must recognize defects on the fabric at the time of fabric inspection. Here bellow the faults.
Name of faults Source Reason
Neps, thick place, thin place, fly Yarn and weaving yarn, stop mark, oil spot, miss pick, double pick, broken end, double end, temple cut etc.
Fabric surface uneven Pretreatment Due to uneven roller pressure or
91 Shade bar Dyeing Due to uneven dye and shade variation.
White spot If dust fall on the fabric in
running time. Miss dyeing Chemical spot Oil spot during dyeing. Miss print, over design, print bar Printing etc. Long stripe Brushing Due to uneven brushing in warp direction. Sanforized corrugation Finishing Due to over drying of polyester fabric. Bug spot Others Insect spot
Crease mark in warp and
Weft direction
Water mark Due to water drop from steam
chamber.
NB: 1. Side to end shading
2. Side to center shading 3. Side to side shading. These problems are not counted in point system. They are represented as “yes” or “no” mark.
Remarks: South China Bleaching & Dyeing Factory Ltd. always concern about the quality of the product. The quality of the product is always approved by the buyer. They follow the quality standard: ISO 9001: 2000, this mill is well equipped for checking the quality of the product.
92 CHAPTER SEVEN
Central Laboratory
7.1 Lab dip / Sample Dyeing:
A lab dip is a swatch of fabric test dyed to hit a color standard. It is a process by which buyer’s supplied swatch is matched with the varying dyes percentage in the laboratory with or without help of spectrophotometer.Lab dip plays an important role in shade matching & this is an important task before bulk production. In previous article of this author we have to learn on flow chart on dyeing lab.
Light Source for matching Lab Dip:
i. D65 ii. TL-84 iii.TL-83 iv.UV light Objectives of Lab Dip:
To calculate the recipe for sample dyeing.
To compare dyed sample with swatch by light Box or Spectrophotometer. To calculate revise recipe for sample dyeing. Finally approved Lab Dip (Grade: A, B, C & D)
Four types of lab dip are produced in South China:
CPB VAT Pigment Disperse
93 94 7.1.1CPB Process Sequences:
Swatch receive
Recipe Formulation
Dyes & Chemical mixing
Padding
Batching
Cold wash
Hot wash
Cold wash
Hydro extractor
Drying
Finishing chemical apply
Padding
Drying
Shade matching
95 Recipe Formulation:
After receiving swatch from buyer, they formulate recipe from data-color. Depends on data-color recipe, at first produce lab dip.
Fig 7.1.1: Spectrophotometer
Recipe for reactive dyeing:
Dyes/chemical Amount
Dyes 5 gm/100ml
Na2CO3 8/100ml
NaOH 0.25/100ml
Urea 2.5 gm/100ml
Wetting agent 2gm/100ml
96 Padding: For impregnation of dyes into fabric needed to be padded properly in padding mangle for two times.
Batching: 0 For CPB dyeing it is necessary to batch for 45-55 min at temperature 55 ± 2 by wrapping into a roller. Then one cold wash and three times hot wash and finally one-time hot wash. After washing is completed extraction of water by hydro extractor takes place. Drying is done at 0 temperature 150-160 c. Then finishing chemicals are applied and finally after drying process is completed.
Shade Matching: Then the sample goes through shade matching in light box under different light source as per buyer requirement.
7.1.2VAT/ Thermosol Process:
Brushing
Dyes & chemical mixing
IR
Curing chamber
Chemical bath
Chemical reaction chamber
Cold wash
Hot wash
Oxidation
Soaping
Neutralization
Hot wash
Drying
Rolling/Delivery
97 Recipe for Thermosol :
Dyes/Chemical Amount Dyes 2 gm Levelling Agent 10 ml Wetting agent 2 ml Water Rest out of 100 ml Curing (130-140) 0c for 2 min Hydrose 75g NaOH 100 ml Steaming 100 0c H2O2 10 g/l (50%) DDC & Na2CO3 5 -6 g/l Drying (150-160) 0c
Dyes Mixing:
Proper mixing of dyes into water need to proper agitation. For this reason, mixing machine is necessary.
7.2 Analytical department:
7.2.1 Barium activity number of mercerized fabric test:
The procedure for barium activity number test on mercerized cloth is given bellow-
Machine /: N/A solution used Machine/ : N/A solution manufactured by Person : QA lab assistant responsible
Frequency : As and when required
98 Procedure: Take one mercerized sample and 3 more samples from left, center and right so that the sample weight is approximately 5 gm. Check the pH and if the value is not neutral then wash the sample with 10 g/l natural soap and 2 g/l soda ash. Boil the sample for one hour and check the pH of washed liquid. Then dry the sample. After drying take accurately 2 gm portion of each of the sample and cut them into 3mm square. Place the cut portion in 250 ml volumetric flask. Add 30 ml of 0.25 N barium hydroxide solutions in each of flask and keep them for 2 hours. Stir the content at some interval. After 2 hours pipette out 10 ml of solution from the flask and titrate with 1 N HCl. Note down the reading.
Barium activity number = {(b-s)/(b-u)} × 100
Performance standard : 128-140
In case of non-conformity : Inform mechanical maintenance personnel / relevant area in charge for corrective action.
7.2.2 PH Test: The details of pH test procedure is given bellow-
Machine / solution used : Universal indicator solution, flame
able liquid, mixable with water, color scale range for pH 410
Machine /Solution manufactured by : E-Merck (India) Ltd.
Person responsible : QA lab assistant
Frequency : Every thousand meters
Procedure : 2-3 drop of water are spayed over the
fabric, and then added 1-2 drop of pH solution over it. The resulted color is than compared with the scale. Performance standard : -pH 7-8 for reactive. - pH ≤ 7 for disperse.
In case of non-conformity : Hot wash
99 7.2.3 Water Hardness Test:
100ml water is taken in a bickers & 4ml ammonia buffer solution is taken in it. - 2- 3 drops black indicator (Eriochrome Black T). Then have to titrate with 0.01N EDTA.
Result: = Burette reading × 10, Standard> 60
If burette reading is more than 60 then it will not be ok.
7.3 Quality Control: Physical
Test:
Existence of modern dyeing factory cannot be thought without lab. Lab of a moderndye house can be considered as the heart of the industry. Different equipment is used in lab. All the equipment used in lab can be categorized into two i.e. equipment for lab dip preparationor chemical test and equipment for physical test.
Typical Physical Test:
1. Tear Strength 2. Tensile Strength 3. Seam Slippage 4. Stress & Recovery 5. Color fastness to rubbing 6. Abrasion & pilling Tester 7. Wrinkle Recovery 8. Shirley crease recovery tester 9. Color fastness to light 10. Yarn Tester 11. Shrinkage& Skew 12. Water spray Typical Chemical Test:
11. Teflon test
12. Color fastness to Perspiration 13. Color fastness to wash
100 Description: 7.3.1 Tear Strength: Method: EN ISO 13937-2:2000 Tear properties of fabrics-part-2 Materials & Equipment:
• Warp and weft direction of the fabric was identified. • Two strips were cut from the fabric in both directions having dimensions of 100 x 63.5 mm. The sample was then fixed in the jaws of the tearing tester. • A cut of 20mm was made along the width of the fabric using the cutter in the tearing tester. • By using falling pendulum of the tearing tester the fabric was tear and the readings were noted from the Elmendorf's tester's scale.
Fig 7.3.1: Tear strength tester
101 7.3.2 Tensile Strength: Tensile strength is a measurement of the force required to pull something such as rope, wire, or a structural beam to the point where it breaks. The tensile strength of a material is the maximum amount of tensile stress that it can take before failure, for example breaking. Method:
ASTM D5034 1 Grab Tensile strength
ISO 13934-1:2013 Tensile properties of fabrics
Fig 7.3.2: Tensile Strength tester
7.3.3 Seam Slippage:
Seamslippage is a fabric problem especially for fabrics that contain slippery yarns or that have an open structure or where the number of warp and weft interlacing’s low. Such factors mean that one set of yarns may be easily pulled through the other. Seam slippage is the condition where a seam sewn in the fabric opens under load. Some of this gap may close on removal of the load but some of it may be a permanent deformation. Method:
ISO 13936-1:2004 Determination of the slippage resistance of yarns at a seam in woven fabrics -- Part 1: Fixed seam opening method
102 Fig 7.3.3: Multiple tester
7.3.4 Martindale Abrasion & pilling Resistance:
Fabric is mounted flat and rubbed in a figure eight-like motion using a piece of worsted wool cloth as the abrading. The number of cycles endured before the fabric shows an objectionable change in appearance is counted and determines the fabric’s abrasion rating. 20,000 = general contract upholstery 40,000 = heavy duty upholstery Multiple factors affect fabric durability and appearance retention, including end-user application and proper maintenance.
Method: ASTM D4970 / D4970M Standard Test Method for Pilling Resistance and Other Related Surface Changes of Textile Fabrics: Martindale Tester
ISO 12947-2:1998
Determination of the abrasion resistance of fabrics by the Martindale method
Fig 7.3.4: Martindale Abrasion & pilling tester
103 7.3.5 Stress & Recovery: For end using purposes this test is necessary to pre-determination of fabric elasticity property. Method: ASTM D3107 This test method covers the determination of the amount of fabric stretch, fabric growth, and fabric recovery of fabrics woven in whole or in part from stretch yarns after a specified tension and extension. Shrinkage & Skew:
Shrinkage is the process in which a fabric becomes smaller than its original size, usually through the process of laundry. Cotton fabric suffers from two main disadvantages of shrinking and creasing during subsequent washing.
There are two types of shrinkage occurs during washing
1) Length wise 2) Width wise
ASTMD7811-13: Standard Test Method for Bow and Skew Using a Measuring Tool ISO 13015:2013: A method for the determination of the distortion of a woven fabric in which the weft yarns are, in principle, perpendicular to the warp yarns.
104 7.3.6 Water sprays Test: Water Repellency Tester is used to check the water repellency of the fabric by spray test in textile testing laboratory. Suitable for Table cloth, tapestry, flooring material fabric manufacturer.
Fig 7.3.6: Water spray tester
Water repellency test method is applicable to any textile fabric, which may or may not have been given a water-repellent finish. It is very necessary for a manufacturer to test the water repellency ability of the fabric. This method is especially suited for measuring the water- repellent efficacy of finishes applied to fabrics.
Standards:
ISO 9865:1991 Determination of water repellency of fabrics by the Bundesmann rain- shower test
105 7.3.7 Wrinkle Recovery: Wrinkle Resistance / Stay Smooth Technology- Ability to resist creasing, wrinkling, folding deformations in washing.
Resin finishes are generally associated with anti-wrinkle properties.
Visually evaluate after 5 Washes
→Fabric smoothness →Seam puckering →Crease Retention Test Method:
AATCC 143, 124,88
ISO 9867:2009 Evaluation of the wrinkle recovery of fabrics -- Appearance method
7.3.8 Crockmeter/Rubbing Fastness Tester:
Features of Crockmeter: • To determine the Color Fastness of Textiles. • The equipment consists of a counter. • It is provided with a flat peg.
Fig 7.3.8: Crockmeter
• It also consists of an operating handle.
• Tests the color fastness of the textile in a very accurate manner. • It gives not only accurate but also quick result.
106 Specifications of Crock meter:
Diameter of the Rubbing Finger : 16 mm & 25 mm
Force on the Finger : 9 N & 20 N Size of Crocking Cloth : (5 x 5) cm2& (7 x7) cm2 Length of the Traverse : 100 ±5 mm Counter (Re-settable) : 4-Digit Counter Size of Test Specimen : 25 x 5 Cm Overall Dimension of the Unit : 600 (W) x 190 (D) x 200 (H) mm Net Weight of the Unit : 4 Kg. (9 lbs.) Construction : Cold-rolled steel Technical specifications & appearance of machines are subject to change without any notice.
Crock meter confirms with the following international standards: ISO
105, BS 1006, AATCC 8, BS EN 20105
Working Procedure: Dry
Rubbing: • Properly mount your specimen and test cloths. The counter has to be reset by moving the knob on the left side of the counter. The finger is positioned on the specimen at the base’s front end and handle is rotated in the clockwise direction at the rate of approximately 1 revolution per second. The handle is then rotated equal to the number of strokes specified by the test method. • When the desired number of strokes is reached, the crocking cloth is removed from the finger and its degree of staining has to be evaluated by SDC grey scale.
Wet Rubbing: • A fresh piece of crocking cloth is soaked in distilled water and the excess water is removed so that it contains its own mass of water. • The wet piece of the crocking cloth is fixed over the end of the finger of the Crock meter and the test is undertaken. • The dyed or printed fabric has to be mounted on a lower platform. • Then 10 cycles are rubbed with a white fabric, which is mounted on a peg in the upper rubbing arm. • Then the extent of color that rubs away onto the white fabric against a color transference scale has to be determined. • The rubbing action of the peg+ enabled fibers from the upper colored flannel fabric surface to be transferred onto the white backing fabric mounted on the lower platform.
107 • The cloth is then removed to evaluate the discolor level in comparison with a gray-scale 7.3.9 Color fastness to Light:
The purpose of Color fastnessto light test is to determine how much the color will fade when exposed to a known light source. It is an offline quality assurance system. Generally, man wears the fabric and goes outside of the home for doing their job. In day; sun light falls on the fabric surface. So, it needs to know how much protection ability a fabric has to sun light. It is determined by an experiment called color fastness to light. To measure the color fastness a blue scale is used. After completing the test, sample is compared with the blue scale.
7.3.10 Color fastness to perspiration: Thecolorfastnessto perspiration (acid and alkaline)
shall be at least level 3-4 (color change and staining). This criterion does not apply to white products, to products that are neither dyed nor printed, to furniture fabrics, curtains or similar textiles intended for interior decoration. A level of 3 is nevertheless allowed when fabrics are both light colored (standard depth < 1/12) and made of silk or of blends with more than 20% silk.
This kind of test is specially applied for the sportswear and heavy dress which is used specially. Normal cloths are also tested by perspiration test.
The garments a\which come into contact with the body where perspiration is heavy may suffer serious local discoloration. This test is intended to determine the resistance of color of dyed textile to the action of acidic and alkaline perspiration. Before knowing about the Color Fastness to perspiration you must have to know about Color Fastness to WashandColor Fastness to Rubbing.
108 Fig 7.3.10: Multifiber
Equipment for Fastness measurement-
1. Perspiration tester 2. Oven, Maintained at 37+-2 Degree centigrade 3. Multifiber test fabric 4. Grey scale 5. Color matching chamber 6. Acidic and Alkaline solution 7.Glass or Acrylic plat 8. Weight.
Reagent for Perspiration Test:
1. Solution freshly prepared, containing 0.5g 1-histidine mono-hydrochloride mono- hydrate, 5g sodium chloride, and 2.5g disodium hydrogen ortho phosphate per liter brought to PH 8.0 with 0.1N sodium hydroxide. 2. Solution freshly prepared, containing 0.5g 1-histidine mono-hydrochloride mono- hydrate, 5g sodium chloride, and 2.2g sodium dihydrogenortho phosphate per liter brought to PH 5.5 with 0.1N sodium hydroxide. 3. Two undyed cloths for each specimen each 6×6cm of the same kind of fiber as the sample. Place the specimen between the two pieces of white cloth and sew along one side to form a composite sample.
109 CHAPTER EIGHT
Maintenance
8.0 Maintenance: Every machine is thoroughly tested and inspected by manufacturers before selling it and the purchaser before it is put to use. When it is used, it will be subjected to wear and tear and hence proper attention should be given to protect the machine and its components from undue wear and thus protect them from failures. A proper attention means lubrication, cleaning, timely inspection and systematic maintenance. Maintenance of a machine means effort directed towards the upkeep and repair of that machine.
There are 2 types of maintenance:
a. Breakdown Maintenance b. Preventive Maintenance
8.1 Breakdown Maintenance:
Breakdown of a machine occurs due to following 2 reasons 1. Due to unpredictable failure of components 2. Due to gradual wear and tear of parts
In breakdown maintenance defects are rectified only when the machine can’t perform its function any longer and the production department is compiled to call maintenance engineers for repair. After repairing the defects, the maintenance engineers do not attend the machine any longer until another failure occurs. 8.2 Preventive maintenance: Preventive maintenance is sometimes termed as “planned maintenance” or “scheduled maintenance” etc. It is an extremely function for reduction of maintenance cost and to keep the good operational condition of equipment and hence increase the reliability
Routing: 1) Daily Maintenance: Every machine is taken to maintenance daily by operators during production. When a production is started by the operator after handing over from previous shift operator, he takes a routine maintenance on the machine. He cleans the machine, assures fabric is fed to the machine, cleans the roller and motor, signal lamp sensor etc. All around of the machine are kept neat and clean.
110 2) Schedule Maintenance: Every machine has a schedule of maintenance of 10 or 15 days. According to date, scheduled maintenance is taken on the machines. Operators are informed about the time of maintenance. After pre-estimated production, they hand over the machine to the fitters. The fitters assure all machines are OK. For any time.
3) Breakdown maintenance: When product quality hampered and to complete production in due time break down maintenance is taken. There are many faults seen in the fabric during production due to padder, roller, motor driving wheel etc. The operator informs the mechanical fitters and they fix it.
4) Restorative Maintenance: Restorative maintenance is taken for design change or new design development. According to advice or order of production officer, a machine is fixed for new design.
Maintenance in bleaching department:
Bleaching department contains the following machines: 1. De-sizing, Scouring and Bleaching machine 2. Mercerizing machine
Daily maintenance is done by workers in these machines by cleaning the machines. Change of different gear, gear driving wheel, electric wire is done by maintenance crew periodically and efficiently.
8.3 Maintenance in dyeing department:
Dyeing department contains the following machines: 1. Thermosol dyeing machine 2. Cold pad batch dyeing machine 3. Jigger dyeing machine
Following maintenance check should be done in these machines:
a. Padder b. Infrared dryer c. Motor d. Motor driving wheel e. Feeding system f. Delivery system g. Heating system h. Electric wiring system i. Electric control panel j. Drainage system Etc.
111 Maintenance in finishing department: Finishing department contains the following machines: 1. Raising machine 2. Microsuide physical finishing machine 3. Stenter 4. Sanforizing machine 5. Calendering machine 6. Printing machine
Following maintenance check should be done in these machines:
a. Padder b. Motor c. Motor driving wheel d. Feeding system e. Delivery system
Maintenance in utility department:
Utility department contains the following machines: 1. Gas boiler 2. Oil boiler 3. Generator 4. Com 5. Air conditioner Following maintenance check is done in these machines: a. Boiler gas burner b. Boiler filter c. Water filter d. Boiler blow down e. Heating arrangement f. Boiler pressure control system g. Different parts of generator h. Gas feeding system i. Exhaust system j. Filter. Etc.
8.4 Maintenance in drying section: Drying system is very important for producing the moisture free dry fabric. If moisture is present in fabric after drying then it creates difficulties in good conditioning of the fabric. So, drying should be proper. The main responsibility of the maintenance department is to check up regularly the steam pipe, steam pressure valve, drying cylinder, motor etc.
112 Lubrication system: A good lubrication program should be present in different parts of the machine for finding out the best possible output from the machine. For this purpose a right lubricant is applied in right place at right quantity at the right time.
Maintenance Tools, Equipment and their Functions:
Maintenance tools and equipment Functions 1.Adjustable wrench Used for setting nut and bolts 2.Pipe spanner For pipe fitting 3.Spanner For nut and bolt fitting 4.Socket spanner Handle system for nut and bolt fitting 5.Hammer To apply load where required 6.Screw driver To release any screw 7.Punch Used to fix any worn-out shaft 8.Lock opener To open clip of bearing 9.Hack saw To cut any metallic thing 10.Outside Calipers To measure outside diameter 11.Inside calipers To measure inside diameter 12.Slide calipers To measure very small diameter 13.Pliers Tony grip anything or cut anything 14.Tester To test electric circuit 15.Chisel To cut any metal 16.File To smooth the rough surface Manpower set up for maintenance: Total manpower in different section is given below: Name of the department Manpower arrangement Bleaching department 8 Dyeing department 8 Finishing department 10 Utility department 6 Others 5 Total 37 a. No. of mechanical engineer: 3 b. No. of electrical engineer: 2 c. No. of supervisor: 6
Remarks: Maintenance of machines is very essential to prolong the machine life and good maintenance is important for economical consideration. In this industry maintenance program is done by expert maintenance team. So, very few times production is stopped due to machine problem.
113 CHAPTER NINE
Utility Services
9.0 Available facilities of utility:
1. Electricity 2. Gas 3. Water 4. Compressed air 5. Steam
9.1 Electricity: The main utility electricity is supplied from REB and also by generator. Specification: Brand name: GUASKOR No. of generator: 5 Power: 7000KW Voltage: 400V Type: Gas generator Gas pressure: 15 PSI Air and gas ratio: 75:25 No of cylinder: 16 Cylinder temperature: 500C Lubricating oil pressure: 1 bar
General parameter of generator:
Speed: 1500 rpm Ignition: Time setting Gas system: Amount of gas per cylinder Exhaust system: 700 Cubic meters per minute Water temperature: 93 to 95C Load: 700 KW Voltage: 400V(maximum), 300V (minimum) Frequency: 50 HZ Power factor: -0.98 Battery voltage: 26V
114 9.2 Gas: Gas is mainly used for steam production in boiler. Generally, 36 cubic meters gas are used to produce 1-ton steam.
9.3 Water: Continuous supply of water is ensured by DEPZ Steam: Pure steam with required temperature must be produced to meet the continuous demand of steam in different sections. 2 types of boiler are available in south china bleaching and dyeing factory limited. They are: 1. Steam boiler 2. Oil boiler
9.4 Compressor: Natural gas is drawn by pipe through the filters above the compressor and the air is compressed. In such case air become slightly hot. Hence cold water is drawn to reduce the temperature of compressed air. Thus, the cold water become slightly hot and goes through the outlet pipe.
Specification: Machine no 1: Name: Ingersoll Rand Air Compressor Model: 20V35M*3 Year: 2005 Country: Brazil Capacity: 90 Nm3/m Rated speed: 975 rpm
Machine no 2: Name: Ingersoll Rand Air compressor Model: 20V33M3 Year: 1992 Country: USA Capacity: 81 Nm3/m Rated speed:572 rpm Machine no 3: Same as machine no 2
115 Chiller: The machine by which water is cooled down below its normal temperature is called chiller. Chilled water is used in air condition to maintain required amount of relative humidity. Manufacturer: Carrier Origin: USA Capacity of refrigeration: 420 ton
Source of utility: Electricity: REB and generator Steam: Boiler Water: DEPZ authority Compressed air: Compressor Temperature control: Chiller Gas: DESCO
Cost: 1. Electricity: 2 lakhs (approx.) 2. Gas: 2 lakhs (paper.) 3. Water: Not found
9.5 Effluent treatment plant:
The effluent generated from different sections of a textile mill must be treated before they are discharged to environment. Various chemical and physical means are introduced for this purpose. The effluent treatment plant is chemical-biological combination process developed by India.
Characteristics of raw effluent:
Volume: 3600 cubic meters per day PH: 8 BOD: 20 PPM COD: 100 PPM TDS: 2000 to 500 PPM SS: 40 PPM Color: Black or blue Requirement of dischargeable effluent as per WHO: pH: 6 to 8 BOD: <50 COD: <250 SS: <100 TDS: Not stated Color: Clear
116 9.5.1 Process flow chart of effluent treatment plant: Common Drain Line (Inlet) ↓ Controlling System (Gate) ↓ Bar Screening (1st less size particles) ↓ Flow Meter Sensor (Light passing & measuring) ↓ Drum Screener (2mm less particles can go) ↓ Equalization Tank (Aeration to reduce temp. and increase operation) ↓ Neutralization Tank (HCl 32%) ↓ Oxidation Tank ↓ st 1 Clarifier ↓ ECR (Electric Contaminant Remover) ↓ Anionic Polymer Solution (1000 liters water + 1 kg polymer) ↓ Flocculation ↓ Scrubber ↓ Electric Coagulation ↓ nd 2 Clarifier ↓ Aeration Tank ↓ Water Discharge
117 CHAPTER TEN
Store & Inventory Control
10.0 Store & inventory control:
Inventory system of raw material: According to the various raw materials there are various kinds of inventory systems. The various kinds of inventory systems are followed 1. Inventory system of raw material(yarn) • According to the production order number • As received the raw material after inventor transfer to the automatic wire house • Lot wise • Customer wise • Count wise • According to the types of yarn • According to the brand 2. Inventory system of raw material (weaving): All the gray fabrics are stored in the fabric store, near the batch section. Different types of fabric are listed in the sheet according to the fabric types, quantity and consumers requirements. Fabric shrinkage, GSM, diameter and other property taken to the consideration. For example- • According to the production order number • As received the weave material after inventory transfer to the automatic wire house • Lot wise • Customer wise • Construction wise 3. Inventory system of raw material (Dyes and chemical): Various types of dyes and chemical are stored here according to the dyes and chemical company. Different types of dyes and chemical listed in a sheet.in the sheet stored quantity of dyes and chemical are also included. Every day the sheet is updated and a copy of this sheet is supplied to the manager (production), dye house and lab section. For example- • As received the chemical material after inventory transfer to the storage • Lot wise • Date wise • According to the dye stuff • According to the material • According to the chemical • According to the brand
118 10.1 Spares: The required number of spares different machine are stored in the mechanical store room. All the spares are listed in a sheet which is controlled by the mechanical and maintenance personnel. spares are arranged in the store room according to the size, quantity and requirements. There are shelves in the store room to keep the small spare parts.
Finished goods: The south china bleaching and dyeing factory ltd. Supplies its finished dyed fabric to its garments section and different buyers.so dyed finished fabric are stored for short or long time in the finishing goods store section. All the delivery fabric noted in the tally khata according to the lot no, Quantity number, fabric diameter, buyer name, color and considering other technical parameter. Such as-
• According to the PO number
• According to the customer • According to the color • As received the finished goods after inventory transfer to the automatic wire house.
Remarks: The inventory system of south china bleaching and dyeing factory ltd. covers both weaving and dyeing inventories. The space is noticed to be insufficient considerably.an expansion of space is thus desired for sound inventory. The department are computer oriented and connected by ERP.
119 CHAPTER ELEVEN
Cost Analysis
11.0 Cost Analysis:
Price of the product: The price of the product, which is vary from different types of quality of product. For example- • 20s combed yarn 2.75$/kg • 26s combed yarn 2.80$/kg • 30s combed yarn 2.90$/kg • 34s combed yarn 3.20$/kg • 40s combed yarn 3.80$/kg For more example- • FAA001-128*60/20*16 Price. 1.80$/yds • FAA059-152*70/30*20 Price. 2.30$/yds • FAA002-108*56/16*12 Price. 2.85$/yds Cost of the product: Cost system mainly describes how the cost of the final product is fixed by the company/beneficiary. According to the buyer/customers requirement at first the fabric is collected from local/foreign suppliers. Then it is calculated how much dyestuff or chemical is required till the end of the processing of that fabric. After that the final cost is fixed including some profit. Then the unit price offered to the buyer for approval. If the buyers approve it, all the transaction of money carried out by bank.
Costing of the product is done by the consideration of the following factor:
• Yarn current price + weaving cost + pretreatment cost + dyeing cost + printing cost + finishing cost. • Amount of raw material consumed • Direct labor • Indirect labor • Factory cost • Office and administrative cost • Sales and distribution cost • Overhead cost • Fixed expenses • Documentation test • Profit etc.
Remarks: The costing of the product is a secret matter of the industry. They are not interested to the flash up the cost related data. So, we could not collect the price of the product and costing of the product.
120 CHAPTER TWELVE
Marketing Activities
12.0 Marketing Activities:
Marketing activities flow chart:
Received swatch from buyer
↓ Analysis ↓ Identifying the parameters ↓ Close match ↓ Offered to customer ↓ Price submission ↓ If approved, no new development ↓ Quality selection ↓ Lab dip ↓ Full filling customer requirement ↓ Sent to buyer for approval ↓ If approved, go for bulk production ↓ Lead time (bulk + delivery) ↓ Solving quality problem with the help of Q.A department
121 12.1 Consumers of Product: The South China Bleaching & Dyeing Factory Ltd. is a 100% export-oriented industry. All the goods produced in this industry are exported into various foreign countries. Name of the main buyers are given below-
Name of the Buyer:
1. Merchantex 2. H&M International Limited 3. TMS 4. UNIQLO 5. Actor Sporting 6. Shelsham 7. Mondial 8. Red Point 9. Garvis 10. Phillips-van-Heusen Far East Ltd. 11. Kapphal 12. GVBH 13. Celio 14. Mercury 15. Lee Hung Fat Garments 16. Mexx Far East Limited
Importing countries: There are some countries which are importing goods from The South China Bleaching & Dyeing Factory Ltd. The name of the countries are given below- Spain Germany Denmark Europe Denmark Europe Union United State of America China 12.2 Manpower of Marketing: Marketing plays a vital role in the field of displaying / showing the goods criteria of the products to the buyer & to communicate with the buyer. There are about 25 people in the marketing section of the industry.
122 12.3 Marketing Strategy: Marketing strategy is very important factors to sale the products to the buyer. If the marketing strategy is not so developed, it will be very hard to reach the goal. In case of garments marketing the dealings with the buyer is a very important factor. The South China Bleaching &Dyeing Factory Ltd. mainly senior marketing officers, merchandiser & higher officials deal with the buyer. There are some fixed buyers of the industry. The buyers give their orders continuously all over the year. The marketing officers & the merchandisers communicate with the buying houses to collect the orders. By both side understanding the rate & the order quantity are fixed.
12.4: Duties & responsibilities of marketing officer:
Dealing with the buyer & convince the buyer is the main duty of marketing officer. A marketing officer also has some other duties. The main duties & responsibilities of a marketing officer are given bellow-
1. To prepare cost sheet by dealing with the buyer
2. To take different steps by discussing with the high officials & merchandisers 3. To maintain a regular & good relationship between commercial officer & merchandisers 4. To maintain a communication with the buyers and buying houses Communicate with better criteria of the products
Actually, the responsibilities & duties of marketing officer begins from getting order of buyer & ends after receiving foods by the buyer. So, he should be always smart, energetic & sincere.
Remarks: The South China Bleaching & Dyeing Factory Ltd. has a well learned marketing & merchandising team. They always communicate with the buyers. South China Bleaching & Dyeing Factory Ltd. has some fixed buyers. The marketing section also looks the quality & quantity buyers.
123 CHAPTER THIRTEEN
OTHERS
13.0 Industrial Compliance:
Compliance means conformity of certain standard. Every textile industryshould maintain a
moderate working condition for theiremployees.Although the entire well established project try to maintain well compliance but there are some lacking of proper compliance issues.
Here is list of compliance in which some points are maintained fully and some are partially. Following points are specially for garmentindustry.
Compensation for holiday
Leave with wages Health register Time care Accident register Workman register Equal remuneration National festival holiday Overtime register Labor welfare Weekly holiday fund Sexual harassment policy Child labor abolition policy Anti-discrimination policy Zero abasement policy Working hour policy Hiring /recruitment policy Environment policy Security policy Buyers code of conduct Health and safety committee Canteen
124 13.1Health:
1. Drinking water at least 4.5 L/day/employee
2. Cup availability 3. Drinking water supply 4. Water cooler, heater available in canteen 5. Drinking water signs in native language and English locate minimum 20 feet away from work place 6. Drinking water vassal clean at once in a week 7. Water reserve at least once a week 8. Water center in charge person with cleanliness 9. Suggestion box register
13.2 Toilet:
1. Separate toilet for women and men
2. A seat with proper privacy and lock facility 3. Urinal accommodation 4. Effective water sewage system 5. Soap toilet 6. Water tap 7. Dust bins 8. Toilet white washed one in every four months 9. Daily cleaning log sheet 10. No-smoking signs 11. Ladies /gents toilet signs both in native language and English 12. Deposal of wastes and effluent
13.3 Fire:
1. Sufficient fire extinguisher and active
2. Access area without hindrance 3. Fire signs in both languages 4. Fire certified personal photo 5. Emergency exit
125 13.4 Safety Guard:
1. Metal glows on good condition.
2. Rubber mats & ironers 3. First aid box one 4. Ironers wearing sleepers 5. First trained employees 6. Motor/needle guard 7. Eye guard 8. Nurse 9. Doctor 10. Medicine 11. Medicine issuing register 12. Welfare officer
13.5 Others Facility:
1. Room temperature 2. Lighting facilities
So, compliance ensures the working environment of the industry as well as office. To protect the human rights every managementshould ensure the above compliance policy.
126 Observation &Suggestion
A well-developed website is like a skilled sales man. Nowadays, the appearance, usability and accessibility of a website is more important than ever and it directly promotes a company which helps it to grow. But South China Bleaching and Dyeing Company’s website is not so developed and does not have enough information about the company. Using ‘Personal Protective Equipment (PPE)’ whenever applicable can significantly reduce the chances of unwanted accident. But we saw most of the workers don’t use any PPT most of the time. A reputed company like South China should have proper canteen facility for workers which is not available for the workers. Don’t have Caustic Recovery Plan (CRP) Indoor mobile antenna can be used to enhance the mobile network wherever signal is weak so that employee can be connected in case of emergency. The number of exhaust fan and cooling fan to reduce the temperature of the working is not enough. The number of exhaust fan and cooling fan can be increased for the workers comfort and better efficiency.
127 CONCLUSION
We have completed our industrial attachment successfully by the grace of Allah. Industrial attachment sends us to the expected destiny of practical life. The completion of the two months Industrial attachment at South China Bleaching & Dyeing Factory Limited we have got the impression that factory is one of the most modern export oriented woven dyeing factory in Bangladesh. Though it was established only a few years ago, it has earned “very good reputations” for its best performance over many other export-oriented textile mills. During our training period, talking with the clients of this mill we knew that the mill is fulfilling the country’s best export oriented white finished fabric as well as very good colored fabric due to its modern machinery & good management system. Mill is settled with utility to give all convenient supports to the productions for twenty-four hours. It had self-power generator system to satisfy total power consumptions of the mill. We are enough fortunate that we have got an opportunity of having a training in this mill. During the training period we are received co-operation and association from the authority full & found all man, machines & materials on appreciable working condition. All stuffs & officers were very sincere & devoted their duties to achieve their goal.
Limitations of the Report:
1. Because of secrecy act, the data on costing and marketing activities has not been supplied & hence this report excludes these chapters. 2. We had a very limited time. In spite of our willing to study more details it was not possible to do so. 3. Some of the points in different chapter are not described as these were not available.
Lastly, What special in this report is that the information, data & description very much subjective & practical. So, one can easily have an idea about the whole dyeing unit of South China Bleaching & Dyeing Factory Ltd. at a single look on it.
