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CHARLOTTE IVERS | TABLE TALK

Ottolenghi Bicester Village restaurant review: ‘A soggy outpost of a dying empire’

The man who brought aubergines to the middle classes has opened in an outlet shopping centre. He forgot to teach the kitchen how to cook, writes Charlotte Ivers

The Sunday Times
ALEX GREEN FOR THE SUNDAY TIMES MAGAZINE

Pomegranate. Za’atar. Dukkah. Sumac. Stop me if you’ve heard this before. You have, of course. Probably at every dinner party you’ve been to in ten years. “Pop some more harissa in the shakshuka, darling, and drizzle the black garlic yoghurt on the aubergine.” What did we all eat before Yotam Ottolenghi came along? Meat and two veg, I suppose. Animals.

We eat better today because of him. His brand of modern Middle Eastern cooking has permeated nearly every kitchen, every salad bar in the land.

Sometimes our work canteen serves his stuff. I just read that he has signed a deal with Waitrose. Of course he has. There’s a price to this success — real, culture-changing success. If everyone starts doing what you’re doing, you