If you’ve gone into a supermarket recently, you will have witnessed the spicy mayofication of the condiment aisle. There are just as many jars or squeezy tubes of chilli, piri-piri or sriracha mayo at my branch of Tesco as there are ketchup, and they certainly outnumber the number of bottles of classic mayonnaise.
It’s all driven by Britain’s love of hot sauces. The number of bottles of ketchup bought at Ocado fell by 2 per cent last year, while sales of Thai sriracha — one of the most popular types of hot sauce — climbed 26 per cent. And in 2022, the makers of Nando’s famous peri-peri sauces — who also produce condiments for Pizza Express and Costa Coffee — experienced a £20 million boost as customers tried to “recreate the experience at home” during lockdowns and beyond.
Some brands have had more success than others when adding heat to mayo. There are a handful I’d love to squeeze over chips or squirt into a chicken burger, but plenty more I wouldn’t touch.
Sauce Shop Chipotle and Lime Aioli
★★★★★
Sainsbury’s, 260g, £2.80
Talk about depth of flavour. This is smoky and sweet — a bit like tasting a marshmallow you’ve just cooked over a bonfire — then comes the spice and lime. Thumbs up.
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Leon Korean Chilli Mayo
★★★☆☆
Ocado, 240g, £2.60
Blimey, this is an acquired taste. It’s very … vinegary. And the distinct gochujang [Korean red chilli paste] taste is turned up to ten. Pair this carefully.
Heinz x Morley’s Fried Chicken Sauce
★★★☆☆
Tesco, 420g, £3
This tastes like meat, specifically fried chicken, which is a good job considering that is what the fried chicken shop Morley’s — who have created the mayo-based sauce — suggest you put with it. The sauce is at the higher end of the spice scale (which I like), but not everyone will enjoy the extreme bitiness.
M&S Piri Piri Mayo
★★★☆☆
Ocado, 280ml, £1.80
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This is very mayo-y and creamy in a mass-produced kind of way, with just a hint of tongue tingling.
Nando’s Mild Perinaise Peri-Peri Mayo
★★★☆☆
Sainsbury’s, 265g, £2.25
I’m not sure I’d have this all over my chips, but it has the most interesting, complex flavour. While reminding me of sour cream, the flavour is slightly sweet.
Sainsbury’s Peri Peri Mayo
★★☆☆☆
Sainsbury’s, 280ml, £1.10
Things are quite one-dimensional over here. This is for people who are looking for a condiment that merely tastes of “spice” in a creamy, squirty format.
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Bramwells Peri Peri Mayo
★★☆☆☆
Aldi, 250ml, 89p
Can I taste … gherkins? This is McDonald’s in a bottle — or burger sauce masquerading as spicy mayo. I’d squirt it into a mass-produced patty and cheap bap, but nothing else.
Heinz Mayoracha Mayo Sriracha Sauce
★☆☆☆☆
Tesco, 400g, £2.50
As appealing as the squirty cheese you find in America. It’s very garlicky and has a raw taste. I can imagine this would go down a storm in a cheap diner or fast food spot, but you won’t find it in my kitchen.
Wagamama Firecracker Mayo
★☆☆☆☆
Tesco, 240g, £2.25
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This ain’t mayo. It has a gelatinous, fatty consistency and smells like sweet chilli sauce. It tastes like it too.
