For some time now Albania has been the hottest new thing in Europe — a still-authentic secret frequently bigged up on TikTok or Instagram with the same wide-eyed fanfare once reserved for mystical Thai beaches. It helps that there are dozens of sandy shores here too, and that sterling goes a long way: it’s about 120 lek to the pound, with about 200 lek buying a pint — one that is likely to be wonderfully refreshing in mid-June, when daytime temperatures on the coast are liable to reach 30C.
With Ryanair, easyJet and Wizz Air all offering flights from the UK to Tirana and British Airways’ longstanding service from Heathrow, fares are competitive, so getting here is economical. From Tirana the nearest beach is 20 miles west, next to Durres, the country’s second city. An airport shuttle bus makes this journey six times a day and will cost you £5 (tirana-airport.com). It’s then about £10 for a taxi to Durres beach (a cab from the airport costs about £25, but agree the fare before you set off if you choose this option).
Tell your driver to make for Hotel Lubjana. About 90 yards from the busy seafront this recently refurbished affair has 40 rooms; each is spacious and air-conditioned with a private balcony and simply but pleasantly decorated in woods and whites. Continental breakfasts are served by the excellent staff, while there’s also a restaurant majoring in seafood, the gastronomic speciality of Durres; pasta dishes and the grilled sea bass earn rave reviews (mains from £6; hotel-lubjana.al).
Giving way to the gently shelving Adriatic, the beach here is quite narrow but has more than six miles of pale powder. The backdrop is a cluster of communist-era blocks — not everyone hates them — and you have a choice of public stretches, where loudly coloured deckchairs are crammed parasol by jowl, or private, hotel-owned sections accessible to visitors for a small fee. The latter tend to be cleaner and calmer, especially if you keep heading south; expect to pay about £10 a day for two chairs and a parasol.
Once you’re bored with bronzing, water sports such as jet-skiing and paddleboarding are easy to arrange along the shore. Alternatively you might simply stroll along the promenade — perhaps joining locals for the sunset saunter known as xhiro — passing palm-tree-shaded bars and contemporary sculptures. Otherwise, head slightly inland for cheap shopping, restaurants galore and the pistachio-flavoured ice cream at Pasticeri Pelikan 3.
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Back in the main part of the city there is a Roman amphitheatre that was built in the early 2nd century for close to 20,000 spectators; some houses were built on top of it before it was rediscovered in 1966, yet this remains an enthralling site (£2.50).
Nearer the sea, past the embarkation point for ferries to the Italian city of Bari (about ten hours), there is a modern archaeological museum displaying gorgeous Greek ceramics and intricate gold jewellery (£3.50; albania.al).
Within day-trip range courtesy of cheap taxis are the ancient spice-scented bazaar of Kruja, the castle-crowned Cape of Rodon, tasting tours at the attractive sangiovese-producing Abaia Winery (from £30pp, including lunch; abaiawinery.al) and the whiter, emptier beach at Spille.
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What you get for your £349pp
• Return Luton-Tirana flights with Wizz Air
• 10kg baggage allowance
• Seven nights’ B&B, departing on June 20 (booking.com)
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Feeling flush?
The £800 holiday
Last May the Spanish hotel giant Melia opened a sleek resort on the sandy Bay of Lalzi, north of Durres. Rooftop cocktail bars, two infinity pools and a proper spa ramp up the glamour, alongside eight restaurants (from American comfort food to Mediterranean fine dining), a huge swimming pool and a sports club for tennis and basketball. All 400 airy rooms are done up in contemporary style.
Details Seven nights’ B&B from £819pp, including flights, departing on June 15 (expedia.co.uk)
The £1,200 holiday
For the most Instagrammable experiences you’ll be wanting the southerly Albanian Riviera, near the Greek border, and specifically Ksamil, a small, bayside town close to the ruined ancient city of Butrint that is overlooked by three lush islands. A world apart from the urban hubbub of Durres, the dreamy white-sand beach at Ksamil isless than half a mile from the large suites inside rustic, mottled-stone blocks at the Limni Resort, where there’s also a large outdoor pool and casual Mediterranean restaurant. The easiest route in is an easyJet flight to Corfu (bring the price down further by travelling only with hand luggage), a 50-minute ferry to Saranda (returns from £64pp; ionianseaways.com) and a £45 taxi south to Ksamil.
Details Seven nights’ B&B from £713pp, departing on June 22 (booking.com). Return flights with 23kg of luggage from £433pp (easyjet.com)
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