A J-pop band's favourite live music experiences in Tokyo

YOASOBI breaks musical barriers both in their native Japan and overseas. Here's how they enjoy Tokyo's hottest live music, from buskers in Shibuya to concerts at Nippon Budokan.

Vibrant subcultures and the second largest music market in the world make Tokyo a bucket list-worthy "music destination"; delighting locals and visitors alike with its sheer diversity.

We spoke with chart-topping J-pop sensation YOASOBI, aka Vocaloid music producer Ayase and singer Ikura, to get a feel for the city’s musical landscape.

"Given that Tokyo is the capital and the biggest city in Japan, a lot of the creative talent and artists gather [here] to explore cutting-edge sounds and music," says Ayase, whose wildly popular collaborations with Ikura were originally based on short stories from Monogatary.com; Sony Music Entertainment Japan's social network for creative artists. "A lot of the trends and sounds are set in Tokyo; that’s why the music scene is so high level."

Long before YOASOBI became internationally famous, Tokyo eclectic musical culture and venues allowed them to perfect their unique, literary-inspired sound. "In Japan and Tokyo, there's a lot of individuality, so whether you go to the clubs or live houses or maybe [to] a specific venue to see an artist you like, there's not just one space where all that culture is packed into," says Ayase.

Discovering Tokyo is an endless journey of exploration, with something to offer to every music enthusiast, from nostalgia-fueled city pop to experimental sounds.

Here are Ayase and Ikura's favourite ways to experience Tokyo's contemporary music scene.

Frenetically dynamic, Shibuya has become one of Tokyo's most popular destinations. Spanning 15 sq km and brimming with venues that cater to different music crowds, the district attracts everyone from curious passersby enjoying street performances to connoisseurs exploring the live music scene. 

Shibuya is the epicentre of trends and a mandatory stop for visitors, says Ayase. He recommends first-time travellers and those who want to discover Tokyo’s music offerings start off by exploring the district on foot.

"Shibuya is where you can experience the hottest trends in terms of music," he says. "It centres around the younger generation so they drive a lot of the culture, whether it’s fashion, the clubbing scene or music. The town is very lively so [...] you’re going to hear music almost 24/7… You can walk in the city and see these huge LED billboards where a lot of artists are promoting their latest work and teasing their music videos." 

Ikura encourages visitors to pay attention to buskers in the area. "At the corner of the Shibuya Scramble Crossing, in front of Tsutaya, you can find street musicians playing," she says. A landmark of Shibuya's world-famous intersection, the Tsutaya book store is located right in front of the Shibuya JR [train] Station and is, as Ikura explains, "just two steps away from the Hachiko [dog] statue".

Address: 2 Dogenzaka, Shibuya-ku, 150-0043 Tokyo

Instagram: @city_shibuya_official

Perhaps no other place on the planet flaunts the diversity of Tokyo’s live music landscape quite so well as "live houses" – venues of varied sizes and aesthetics that host gigs every night. And there’s no shortage of options; all acts and musical genres, from jazz to heavy metal, find a place in the eclectic Tokyo scene.

A superb example is Shibuya Gee ge, an unassuming and intimate venue with a motley selection of show listings. The live house, which is slated to celebrate its 14th anniversary in September 2024, is equipped with a grand piano and a high-quality audio system often commended by local artists.

Before rising to global stardom, Ikura occassionally performed here and still recommends it without a second thought. "You can find good singer-songwriters playing at this venue," she says.

Website: http://www.gee-ge.net/

Address: 3−10 4階, Udagawacho, Shibuya City, 150-0042 Tokyo

Phone: +81 3-6416-3468

Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/gee_ge.official/

The next stop on YOASOBI's list is the Nippon Budokan. Originally conceived as a martial arts hall for the 1964 Tokyo Olympics, Budokan is an octagonal arena-style venue steeped in music history. "We have a lot of sentiment and memories there because it's a very famous venue where the top artists from Japan perform," says Ikura.

The storied venue has witnessed legendary moments of music history over the years. In 1966, the arena welcomed The Beatles for a five-date concert, establishing a rock 'n roll tradition perpetuated by groups such as Led Zeppelin, Deep Purple and Cheap Trick.

Budokan's reputation as one of Japan's most iconic concert halls grew exponentially over the years as stars sold out concerts and recorded critically acclaimed live albums. Nowadays, the venue remains a coveted and prestigious location for international and local acts.

"Performing there is usually the dream of upcoming artists and it was our dream as well," Ikura says. "YOASOBI became really active in the middle of the Covid-19 [pandemic] so we couldn’t do a lot of performances in front of an audience. In December 2021, we got to perform in the Budokan for the first time with a live audience and it was such a memorable experience for us to be performing in the same venue where [emblematic] artists have performed."

Website: https://www.nipponbudokan.or.jp/english

Address: 2-3 Kitanomarukōen, Chiyoda City, Tokyo 102-8321

Phone: +81 3-3216-5100

With scenic paths and attractions such as a zoo and the Ghibli Museum, Inokashira Park is a favorite busking spot for artists. Located in Western Tokyo, about 20km from Shibuya, this enchanting spot is Ikura’s recommendation for outdoor music performances.

"When I was still a student, I used to hang out a lot in the area of Kichijoji. I spent a better part of my teen years there, more specifically, in a park called Inokashira Park," she says. "I used to perform on the street back when I was really young. That experience of performing in front of the public put me on the path of [becoming] an artist and my music-writing and music-making career originated there. Kichijoji and that park are very intimate place for me in terms of my musical history."

Inokashira Park, however, is not only relevant to Ikura’s personal story; the park has served as the filming location of music-centered movies such as Parks, starring Mei Nagano, and hosts outdoor concerts and music festivals every year.

Address: 1-18-31, Gotenyama, Musashino-shi, Tokyo

Recognised as the home of counterculture movements in Tokyo, the Koenji neighbourhood reflects Tokyo’s edgy and unconventional spirit, and is littered with vintage shops, music bars and live houses. In fact, Koenji is known as the birthplace of the punk movement in Japan.

"There’s a lot of culture there between actors, actresses, bands, artists, creatives and even comedians," says Ayase of the creative hub, just two metro stops from Shibuya.

The artistic offerings in Koenji are varied, ranging from vintage record stores to indie rock and punk basement bars. However, Ayase, who has long been part of the neighbourhood’s artistic community, recommends walking around the Koenji Station for the most authentic experience. "There are a lot of musicians playing their songs in this station area," he says. "I used to be in a [rock] band and we moved to Tokyo with the dream to perform and make it big one day. The first place I arrived in Tokyo was Koenji. It was a very fun experience for me, looking back. I think [about] it as a big milestone for my musical career."

Address: 4 Chome-48-2 Koenjiminami, Suginami City, Tokyo 166-0003

You can't talk about Tokyo’s contemporary music scene without mentioning its nightlife and gig culture. "I think there’s a very strong club culture in Shibuya so whether [you’re looking for] a hip hop-type of vibe or an EDM type of vibe, you can find a lot of those clubs in this area in Shibuya called Dogenzaka," says Ayase.

With a slew of entertainment spaces dedicated to different genres, Dogenzaka Street is a go-to for whoever wants to lose themselves to the beat. Options are endless and cater to different tastes, but Ayase mentions a specific Shibuya institution that has been open since 1996, pioneering the "all music-genres" scene and accommodating different music acts from DJs to rappers.  

"Club Asia, specifically is a good example," he says. "But there’s also a lot of live houses that you can attend close to the Shibuya Station. There’s definitely a lot of options."

Website: https://clubasia.jp/#about

Address: 1-8 Maruyama-cho, Shibuya-ku, Tokyo 150-0044

Phone: +81 3-5458-2551

Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/clubasia/?hl=en

BBC Travel's The SpeciaList is a series of guides to popular and emerging destinations around the world, as seen through the eyes of local experts and tastemakers.

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