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T Magazine

T's Sept. 10 Men's Fashion Issue

Highlights

  1. Men’s Wear Goes Back to School

    This fall, collegiate staples — cardigans, crisp button-downs and pinstriped suits — take a rebellious turn when paired with vintage jewelry and tank tops.

     By Collier Schorr and Sasha Kelly

    Prada jacket, $4,600, and pants, $1,420, prada.com; and stylist’s own shirt and jewelry.
    CreditPhotograph by Collier Schorr. Styled by Sasha Kelly

  2. How Anthony Vaccarello Made Saint Laurent His Own

    To leave his mark on the storied brand, the designer knew he’d have to honor the past — and defy it.

     By Nick Haramis, Lise Sarfati and Delphine Danhier

    The designer Anthony Vaccarello, photographed outside of the Saint Laurent atelier in Paris’s Seventh Arrondissement on July 21, 2023.
    CreditPhotograph by Lise Sarfati. Styled by Delphine Danhier
  3. Arts And Letters

    Out West, the Gay Cowboy Roams Free

    The frontier has long been a symbol of American masculinity. Now a rising generation of artists are creating a new queer mythology.

     By Evan Moffitt

    The gay cowboy ensemble — Manu Rios (from left), José Condessa, Jason Fernández and George Steane — from Pedro Almodóvar’s “Strange Way of Life” (2023), photographed in Madrid on July 12, 2023. From left: Y/Project shirt, about $715, yproject.fr; and Cartier ring, $3,700, cartier.com. Loewe shirt, showpiece only, and jeans, $990, loewe.com. Gucci T-shirt, $590, gucci.com; Levi’s jeans, $98, levis.com; and stylist’s own belt. Gucci shirt, $2,100, and jeans, $1,300.
    CreditPhotograph by Carlota Guerrero. Styled by Alicia Padrón

  1. How Did Vanilla Become a Byword for Blandness?

    The spice is one of the world’s most elusive, complex and hard to cultivate ingredients. But for many Americans, it still represents a “boring” choice.

     By Ligaya Mishan and Melody Melamed

    From top, vanilla in its various permutations: a meringue twist in a pool of vanilla bean paste and vanilla wafer cookies beneath a whole Tahitian vanilla bean.
    CreditPhotograph by Melody Melamed. Set design by Jocelyn Cabral
    Food Matters

  2. This Fall, Men’s Tailoring Gets a High-Tech Update

    Sporty textures add modern energy to classic shirts and suits.

     By Ilya Lipkin and Hisato Tasaka

    Hermès vest, $12,500, jacket, $4,375, shirt, $810, pants, $1,500, scarf, $245, and necktie; Dior Men cap, $690; Givenchy gloves, price on request, givenchy.com; Roa boots, $512; and stylist’s own socks.
    CreditPhotograph by Ilya Lipkin. Styled by Hisato Tasaka
    in fashion

  3. In an Egyptian Oasis, a House Built From Sand, Rope and Salt

    A designer and an environmentalist have created a retreat that surrenders to the desert.

     By Gisela Williams and Anthony Cotsifas

    The entrance to Tamazid, the environmentalist Mounir Neamatalla’s home in Egypt’s Siwa Oasis, like the rest of the building, was constructed with kershef, a traditional building material made from mud and salt.
    CreditAnthony Cotsifas

  4. This Fall, Coats Hit the Floor

    Long outerwear is the silhouette of the season.

     By Bon Duke and Jordan Boothe

    From left: Fendi coat, $5,500, fendi.com; and stylist’s own jewelry. Sean Suen coat, $1,935, seansuen.com. Louis Gabriel Nouchi coat, top, and pants, price on request, louisgabrielnouchi.com. Willy Chavarria coat, $3,675, top, $1,200, and skirt, $2,736, willychavarria.com. Loewe coat, $6,450, loewe.com; and Brioni sweater, $945, brioni.com. Sean Suen coat, $1,450, and pants, $615.
    CreditPhotograph by Bon Duke. Styled by Jordan Boothe
    in fashion

  5. The Hyperreal Wonders of Glacé Fruit

    A time-consuming, glossy confection beloved by 16th-century royalty is making an unlikely return.

     By Alexa Brazilian and Kyoko Hamada

    An assortment of glacé citrons, clementines, figs, green cherries and orange slices from Frank and Sal Italian Market and Sahadi’s, both in New York City, and the specialty food importer IfiGourmet.
    CreditPhotograph by Kyoko Hamada. Set design by Jocelyn Cabral

  1. Fall Men’s Wear Channels the ’80s, Down to the Skinny Ties and Pleats

    Billowing high-waisted trousers and asymmetrical silhouettes give this season a vintage flair.

     By Philip-Daniel Ducasse and Jay Massacret

    Louis Vuitton shirt and pants, price on request, louisvuitton.com; and Dolce & Gabbana shoes, $825.
    CreditPhotograph by Philip-Daniel Ducasse. Styled by Jay Massacret

  2. Carrie Mae Weems and George C. Wolfe on Defiance and Claiming Space

    Two creative people in two different fields in one wide-ranging conversation. This time: the “Kitchen Table Series” artist and the theater and film director.

     By Jenny Comita

    The director and dramatist George C. Wolfe (left) and the visual artist Carrie Mae Weems, photographed in New York City on July 14, 2023.
    CreditDeSean McClinton-Holland
    Admiration Society

  3. The Fashion Designer Making Art Out of Offcuts

    Tomo Koizumi, known for his voluminous ruffled dresses, ventures into a new creative arena: painting.

     By Kurt Soller

    The fashion designer and artist Tomo Koizumi, photographed on July 11, 2023, at his dressmaking studio in Tokyo’s Shinjuku neighborhood with three of his art pieces made from leftover fabric: a giant teddy bear and, behind him, a pair of matching rainbow banners.
    CreditPhotograph by Motoyuki Daifu. Artworks: “Ruffle Bear” and “Ruffle Rainbow”
    Swing Shift

  4. Fall’s Go-To Accessories, in Shades of Olive

    Neutral green carryalls and loafers complement any outfit.

     By Mari Maeda and Yuji Oboshi

    Tod’s, $1,245, tods.com.
    CreditMari Maeda and Yuji Oboshi
    Market Report

  5. A Designer Who Starts With Destruction

    Plus: varsity jackets, a craze for cabbage and more from T’s cultural compendium.

     

    The Dutch designer Linde Freya Tangelder in her studio in Antwerp, Belgium, wears a Fendi blazer, $3,290, top, $1,550, and pants, $1,690, fendi.com; Liya b’x earring (left), $558, graanmarkt13.com; Charlotte Chesnais ear cuff (right), $520, graanmarkt13.com; Wouters & Hendrix ring, $1,632, wouters-hendrix.com; and Church’s boots, $1,290, church-footwear.com. At far left, Tangelder’s Wax, Stone, Light floor lamp for Cassina.
    CreditPhotograph by Lydie Nesvadba. Styled by Ilja De Weerdt
    People, Places, Things

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  1.  
  2. Letter from the Editor

    The Burden of Inheritance

    How do designers and artists continue the legacy of others without losing their own voice?

    By Hanya Yanagihara

     

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