Agadir, the capital of Morocco’s central, fertile Souss-Massa region, is often dismissed as being merely a gateway to the easygoing surf towns along the Atlantic coast. But stay a while and you’ll soon see that this resilient city quietly rides a wave all of its own.
The Agadir of today rose from the rubble of a devastating earthquake that flattened much of its historic core in 1960. As such, its architecture is a modern blend of brutalism, gridded boulevards and minarets buzzing beneath the impassioned Arabic inscription of “God, Fatherland, Country” emblazoned across its kasbah-topped hillside.
The hospitality tradition runs deep here, as does pride in Amazigh (Berber) cultural heritage. There’s a penchant for hammams, fabulous food and a genuine desire for visitors to fall under the spell of this laid-back city by the sea — no chore with its miles-long scoop of soft golden sandy beach, vibrant markets, nature-friendly day trips and golfing opportunities. The near year-round sunshine is merely the cherry — or locally grown clementine — on top.
Day one
• Morning: Take a cooking class
• Lunch at: Tasty Jus
• Afternoon: Agadir Art Museum
• Drink at: Espressolab
• Evening: Kasbah Agadir Oufella
• Eat at: L’Ardoise Gourmande
Day two
• Morning: Souk El Had
• Eat at: Seafood stalls
• Afternoon Surf Academy Agadir
• Drink at: Les Blancs
• Evening: Stroll the promenade
• Eat at: La Scala
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What to do
What better way to get a taste of Morocco than by DIY tagine? After selecting your vegetables at the nearby market, head to the artisan souk of Kasbat Souss where the fabulously welcoming Fatima will show you how best to create a bubbling, culinary masterpiece in her working kitchen; bread-dunking actively encouraged (three hours £36; getyourguide.co.uk).
Amazigh and Moroccan heritage — as well as colonial and post-colonial artistic influences from France’s rule in the first half of the 20th century — are explored at the Agadir Art Museum, which opened in 2023. Expressionist paintings, beautifully crafted jewellery, woven carpets and colourful hangings are split across five distinct sections including culture, urban scenes and landscapes (£3, free on Fridays; fnm.ma).
Aboard Morocco’s first cable car, soar to the restored 16th-century Kasbah of Agadir Oufella, whose original walls defied the earthquakes. Use an audio guide to discover its history then navigate past camels to see the sunset beyond the cranes in the port below (return cable car £10; danialand.com, Kasbah £7; agadir-oufella.ma).
Set your nose twitching at Souk El Had, one of north Africa’s largest markets with a labyrinth of more than 3,000 stalls. Weave among mounds of fragrant fruit and vegetables to haggle for spices, jewellery and baskets. Find a café to sip sweet mint tea as traders push their carts by and sleepy cats doze (closed Mondays).
Nearby Taghazout may be a surfing hotspot but the waves that roll onto Agadir’s beach are perfect for beginners. Zip into a wetsuit and learn the basics from your skilled instructor at Surf Academy Agadir before being buffeted by the Atlantic; you’ll be catching a wave in no time (one-hour group lessons from £12; surfacademy.ma).
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Slide out of Les Blancs straight onto Agadir’s six-mile-long, restaurant-lined, palm-dotted promenade. Rarely quiet, it positively hums at dusk when young families, football-chasing teenagers, couples and entrepreneurial sellers hawking everything from sunglasses to scarves mingle on the wide stretch that backs the city’s wave-lapped, butterscotch beach.
Where to eat and drink
Tasty Jus
Head to Tasty Jus for a light bite in the busy tree-lined Talborjt neighbourhood. Choose from dishes such as salads, omelettes and shakshuka, all served with homemade bread alongside a range of smoothie options and just-squeezed orange juice (mains from £1.50; Avenue Hassan II).
Espressolab
There’s a European feel in the air at Agadir’s marina where sailboats float in the sheltered, clear, fish-filled waters lined with boutiques, patisseries and gelaterias. Pick a waterside table at the trendy Turkish coffee specialist Espressolab, where an iced latte and a feather-light choux pastry will see you through the afternoon (drinks from £2; instagram.com/espressolabmo).
L’Ardoise Gourmande
Go French at this popular, high-end bistro dishing up classics with a contemporary edge. The menu changes daily and features anything from chicken supreme and garlic-crusted escargot to mussels in spinach and divine vanilla-rich crème caramel. Be sure to book ahead and suss out the great-value set menu (mains from £7.50; Boulevard Hassan II).
Seafood stalls
Home to one of Morocco’s leading fishing ports, Agadir is proud of its seafood. Head for the tented arena of individually numbered stalls in the shadow of Agadir’s hilltop kasbah (across from the entrance to the cable car) for a low-cost lunch of the region’s speciality, lemon-doused grilled sardines topped up with fries and salad (mains from £1.50).
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Les Blancs
Clink cava-filled glasses on the terrace of this swish Spanish-themed bar tucked into the northern end of Agadir beach. Plunge your feet into soft sand from a beach sofa while families frolic in the shallows and the sky turns fiery pink as the sun sinks behind the headland (drinks from £8; Rte Marina).
La Scala
Seek out a seat on the garden terrace at this popular, if pricier, restaurant one street removed from the promenade. It’s renowned for its seafood with a French twist, and the grilled lobster is a house speciality (mains from £15; lascalaagadir.com).
Where to stay
Riad Les Chtis d’Agadir
Characterful and colourful
Away from the beach, this bright and welcoming riad with its central fountain, books and homely feel has been owned by the French couple Didier and Caroline for 14 years. There are four categories across nine en suite rooms, each with a popping colour palette and dazzling geometric tilework. Food, all homemade, is served on the rooftop terrace where terrapins and Gipsy the dog can be found basking in the sunshine. Breakfast is a feast not to be missed (B&B doubles from £40; riadleschtisdagadir.com).
Petit Palace Suites Hotel
Chic urban retreat
Palatial indeed, this all-suite, gleaming hotel in northern Agadir, a 15-minute walk from the beach and close to the immaculate public park of Jardin d’Olhao, is an oasis of sweet-smelling calm. Twenty suites of varying sizes, each with a terrace and king-size bed, are spread across this townhouse-style property. Breakfast at nearby Café Caramel, a favourite with Agadir’s discerning coffee-drinking cake lovers (room-only doubles from £110; petitpalace.ma).
The View Agadir
Beachside luxury with all the trimmings
Recently opened, this five-star property promises prom-front luxury in its stylish rooms that hint at the nautical with splashes of turquoise and natural tones. Two restaurants, two bars and luscious, native-only greenery surround the swirl-shaped swimming pool while the spa has its own hammam. You’re treated to multiple stations at breakfast (go for the waffles) and own-label goods such as tea, toiletries and wine; the hotel’s signature Moroccan rosé is just the ticket at sunset (B&B doubles from £188; theviewhotels.com).
Getting there
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Numerous airlines fly direct to Agadir from airports across the UK. EasyJet operates flights from London Gatwick, London Luton and Manchester; Ryanair flies from Bournemouth and Jet2 from Leeds Bradford.
Getting around
Agadir is easy to explore on foot, but buses (from 40p per journey) and orange petit taxis (from £1.50) help you get around the centre. White grande taxis go beyond the city limits including to/from the airport (about 30 minutes; £16 one way), while the ALSA airport bus is a cheaper alternative (50 minutes; £4 one way; alsa.ma).
Kirsten Henton was a guest of the View Agadir, GetYourGuide and easyJet, which has flights from London Gatwick from £129 return, including speedy boarding
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