Surprises can sometimes be unwelcome for an unsuspecting hotel guest but Boys Hall, a wisteria-clad, grade II listed manor on the outskirts of Ashford, is unexpected in the best possible way. Brad and Kristie Lomas, the owners, have taken a dilapidated 17th-century Wealden hall house in an unlovely part of town and from it created a sumptuous nine-room hotel, with three acres of garden and a cathedral-like glass-and-green-oak restaurant where the swimming pool once stood. Charlie Dilworth, the chef, champions a seasonal, locally sourced menu that can’t be many food miles away from a Michelin star.
Overall score 8/10
Main photo: the wisteria-clad manor at Boys Hall in Kent
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Rooms and suites
Score 9/10
Brad is understating it when he calls this a “restaurant with rooms” — lush interiors from Kristie, assisted by Ben Stokes of Kagu, promote it firmly into the ranks of a design hotel. The nine rooms — from entry-level Franklin, with its solid four-poster and dinky shower room, to the panelled Bishop’s Quarter super-suite with a bronze rolltop bath — come in a palette of Farrow & Ball archive paints, flamboyant velvets from Lewis & Wood, tropical wallpaper from GP&J Baker, and a selection of half-testers and sofas sourced from auctions across the land. There are deliberately no TVs in the bedrooms, spicy toiletries from Pelegrims are made with pinot noir extracts from the nearby Westwell vineyard and the honesty bar on the first floor stocks Tunnock’s caramel wafers. A complimentary afternoon tea, featuring a perfectly frosted carrot cake, is served fireside in the two low-lit sitting rooms from 4pm by a roster of charming young people. Three rooms — Bishop’s Quarter, Romney and Ernest — can sleep up to four. Cots are supplied free of charge and children’s put-you-ups are available for £30 a night.
This historic house has welcomed some big-name guests. Built in 1616 by Thomas and Margaret Boys in Kentish ragstone quarried from what is now the sunken garden, it sheltered Charles I as he fled from Roundheads, and hosted Samuel Pepys, the diarist whose portrait presides over the panelled lower sitting room. Thrillingly, there are rumours of ghosts, though the only thing likely to go bump in the night is your head against one of the bedroom beams.
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Food and drink
Score 9/10
The menu celebrates “the best this diverse county has to offer” — from Owley Farm mushrooms and Sevenoaks beef to sourdough baked in Hythe and fish landed in Hastings. Standout snacks (whipped mozzarella, pear, candied walnut and Wildfarmed flatbread) lead into sensational starters (white crab with devilled egg, cucumber, apple, dill, crumpet and thermidor sauce) and excellent mains (black miso cod, kimchi, sushi rice, bok choy, avocado, ginger, cucumber, dashi). The only sadness is a lack of space for pudding, though we hear great things about the apple crumble soufflé. The cellar is Brad’s domain, with a special focus on English wines including Gusborne, Penstock and Simpsons (a pinot noir). Everything is oversized in the designer Guy Hollaway’s soaring space: the great oak beams, the vast fireplace, the huge willow pendants and the fat velvet banquettes. The breakfast is equally big, with a special shoutout for the shakshuka. The restaurant has an all-day children’s menu with mini roast dinners on Sunday.
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What else is there?
Score n/a
Kristie has wrestled the gardens back from dereliction, uncovering roses, borders and a now pristine lawn given over to croquet in the summertime. There are plans for a kitchen garden and a spa later in 2024.
Where is it?
Score 7/10
Boys Hall is so well hidden that most of the locals don’t know it’s there. It’s certainly an oasis in the industrial desert that is Ashford. But happily for Brad, it’s a short drive to some of the UK’s finest vineyards (he plans to put on a Land Rover tour in summer), loveliest gardens (Godington, Sissinghurst and Great Dixter) and coolest seaside towns (Margate, Whitstable and Deal). Local walks take in the North Downs and the White Cliffs. And it’s just 42 minutes to central London by train.
Price B&B doubles from £180
Restaurant mains from £22
Family-friendly Y
Dog-friendly N
Accessible restaurant fully accessible, grade II listed hotel building not fully accessible
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