Ascot's creative director reveals how to: Win the style stakes in summer suiting

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The fashion pageant of Royal Ascot has always been a barometer, and inspiration, for summer event dressing at large.

And the hot tip from Ascot as the racing gets under way this week? Swap your showy dress for colourful, flowing, modern tailoring.

Leading the field is the race meeting’s first-ever creative director, Daniel W. Fletcher, a unisex designer who has dressed both Harry Styles and The Crown star Emma Corrin.

He has delved into the Ascot archives to create a lookbook of timeless yet modern outfits for 2024, including brocade suits and crisp shirt dresses paired with ties.

‘Dressing for occasion is something we seldom find the time to do nowadays,’ says Fletcher, who has been a racegoer for many years and says he was ‘a little daunted, but incredibly excited’ when Royal Ascot approached him for the role.

Hat, £109, phase-eight.com; blouse, £225, and skirt, £285, both lisou.co.uk; shoes, £225, fairfaxandfavor.com

Hat, £390, stephenjonesmillinery.com; blazer, £360, top, £114, and trousers, £230, all essentiel-antwerp.com

Sharp suits continue to dominate the catwalk and the red carpet (worn by everyone from the Princess of Wales to Zendaya) so it makes sense that Fletcher would bring his signature shirts, shorts and jackets to the races.

Whether it’s for Ascot, a wedding or any other event on the social calendar, summer’s suiting is all about the playful details — padded shoulders, patch pockets or notch lapels.

Silhouettes are relaxed and flowing, verging on slouchy — think an undone double-breasted jacket or a curved flare on the trousers. Colours are pastel or brights; nothing too close to traditional workwear.

‘Tailoring has always been a big part of Royal Ascot women’s dressing,’ Fletcher says. ‘However, it’s the dresses that often take the spotlight because they are a little more flamboyant.’

To prove tailored pieces can be just as show-stopping, he took inspiration from royal visitors to Ascot.

‘Some of my favourite women’s looks when I was researching for the lookbook were the royals in the 1980s, wearing brightly coloured jackets with big shoulders and nipped-in waists.’

Princess Diana’s postbox-red waistcoat and striped pussy-bow blouse in 1981 would still turn heads today. This fuchsia blouse and skirt from Lisou is a modern take on the look.

Likewise, her oversized double-breasted powder pink and purple skirt suit, worn in 1990, was similar to the baggy pastel tailoring at Stella McCartney and 16Arlington this season.

Hat, £49, accessorize.com; blazer, £499, and trousers, £299, both hollandcooper.com; shoes, £275, russellandbromley.co.uk

Hairband, £350, mervebayindir.com; belted blazer, £69, and trousers, £40, riverisland.com; shoes, £75, monsoon.co.uk

An oversized blazer and trousers from Essentiel Antwerp or the double-breasted suit from race-day favourite Holland Cooper offer a similar feel.

You don’t have to wear trousers to nail the tailoring trend, however. Queen Elizabeth II was the master of bright periwinkle and mint green skirt suits — and this toothpaste green, tailored Karen Millen dress is a good alternative.

And after the jumpsuit was officially accepted into the Royal Enclosure dress code in 2017, Sophie, Countess of Wessex, made strides in a blue belted full-length version.

‘I’ve loved seeing the development of women’s tailoring at Royal Ascot,’ adds Fletcher. ‘I hope it’s allowed everyone to feel more comfortable to find a look that suits them.’

He points out that a great suit will be far more versatile than a statement dress you wear only once. It doesn’t have to be expensive, either. This belted blazer (£69) and trousers (£40) from River Island is an affordable way to try the tailoring trend.

Fletcher’s top tip for turning a High-Street buy into something that looks seriously high-end is to buy big — and then get it tailored.

‘My advice for anyone is to make sure your suit truly fits,’ he says. ‘While not everyone is going to be heading to Savile Row for a bespoke suit, having your trousers hemmed to the correct length or sleeves taken up a notch to reveal a sliver of shirt sleeve on your High Street or vintage suit will make all the difference in elevating your tailored look.’

A silk blouse, high-necked sleeveless shell top or camisole underneath a jacket will keep the look elegant and formal.

Hat, £250, alexandraharpermillinery.com; dress, £175.20, karenmillen.com; shoes, £295, russellandbromley.co.uk

Hat, £1,500, alexandraharpermillinery. com; blazer, £375, and trousers, £225, both meandem.com; shoes £255, camillaelphick.com; necklace, £23, betty andbiddy.com

Opt for strong colours, such as this gold blazer and trousers from Me+Em, and padded shoulders or a peaked lapel to suggest more party, less 9-5.

‘Opt for a fabric without too much texture that won’t age quickly. This will allow it to be paired with different under-layers,’ says Fletcher.

‘I love a suit that I can wear with a shirt when going to an event, but then throw on with a T-shirt and trainers for lunch.’

So, where will the trend for women’s tailoring end?

‘Ascot style is ever evolving,’ says Fletcher. ‘With tailoring becoming more androgynous, I’d love to see women trying out the morning-coat look.’

Top hats optional.