Such is the sheer breadth of activities, events and cultural institutions in London that you could spend decades living here and still feel like you’ve barely scratched the surface. For first time visitors there are, of course, the essentials, like the city’s world class museums or landmark buildings to tick off for the photo album. If you’re returning or staying for longer, theatres big and small, and a never-ending list of restaurants will keep your calendar packed. Not forgetting wildlife spotting, whether that’s in parks and gardens or along the river Thames. For inspiration, here are some of the best things to do in London.
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1. Tour Tate Modern
Entry to Tate Modern is free, but if you’ve got any sense you’ll have paid for timed entry to see one of its temporary exhibits; pick a 10am, midweek slot for the best chance of some elbow room. They tend to focus on one of the acknowledged greats of late 19th and 20th-century art, and because of the Tate’s considerable heft, are usually peppered with masterpieces. They’re also the perfect counterpoint to the rest of the museum, where the globetrotting, gender-balanced approach is mind-expanding and full of treats. Whatever your own interests, though, give yourself time: not just for the art, but for all the gorgeous public spaces. Cafés, bookshops, places to sit and think — the Tate is full of them, topped off by the magnificent Turbine Hall.
2. Cherry-pick the National Gallery’s collection
The big museums of London are not only world-class, they’re free too — so you’re under no pressure to justify a pricey ticket by trying to see the whole collection. The National Gallery is a prime example. Packed with treasures from the Middle Ages to the late 19th century, it’s a completely indigestible experience if taken as a whole. Do a bit of research online before you go and cherry-pick your way through its masterpieces. Start, perhaps, with Bellini’s calm, cleared-eyed Portrait of the Doge Leonardo Loredan, followed by Leonardo’s ethereal Madonna of the Rocks, Caravaggio’s space-stretching The Supper at Emmaus, and Rembrandt’s portrayal of Margaretha de Geer in her later years.
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3. Snack your way around Borough Market
A big draw in Southwark is Borough Market. It’s open all week and it’s heaving by 11.30am. Skip breakfast, get there as close to 8am as you can, and spend your whole morning tasting strong coffee, flaky pastries, fresh oysters, ripe stilton and street-food flavours from all over the world. It will keep you oohing and ahhing until it’s time to skip lunch. Be prepared to queue though as it gets busy quickly.
4. Question reality at ABBA Voyage
It was a sad day in 1986 when our four favourite Swedes decided to perform their infectious hits together for the last time and fold away their flares. Fast-forward 40 years and they’re back in 3D form, and belting out their number ones alongside a ten-piece live band, thanks to the talents of 1,000 animators coupled with 500 moving lights and 291 speakers. The result is the incredible ABBA Voyage: four immersive holographs of Benny, Bjorn, Agnetha and Anni-Frid who shimmy around the stage in sequinned jumpsuits and provide one the greatest night’s of entertainment you’ll find in the capital. Each song, be it a new hit from Voyage — the band’s first album in 40 years — or Chiquitita, will have you questioning whether they’re actually on stage — and that’s all part of the magic.
5. Board the Cutty Sark
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Don’t forget, Britain is an island nation and made its fortune on the high seas. So time spent on board a ship is a great way to get to know the country better. The Cutty Sark is the place to start: not only because this lean, fast tea clipper — built for trade with China — is crewed by a cast of actors, full of stories about life on board a square-rigger. But also because it’s a great excuse to ride one of the scheduled river-bus services, or a sightseeing cruise to Greenwich. Once you’ve seen the ship you can then get more of Britain’s seagoing backstory — not all of which is glorious — at the National Maritime Museum nearby.
6. Search for Harry Potter
Any muggle who’s serious about Harry Potter should head to Watford’s Warner Bros Studio Tour. It’s the ultimate attraction: a dazzling collection of film sets and props that includes the original Gringotts Wizarding Bank, Diagon Alley and the Great Hall of Hogwarts. But if you don’t have time for a day trip to Watford (20 minutes by train to Watford Junction plus 15 minutes on a shuttle bus), there are lots of central London stop-offs to compensate. King’s Cross, Piccadilly Circus, Australia House, Lambeth Bridge: they’ve all featured in the films. But, for perhaps the best mix of Potter-esque landmark and magical, Victorian setting, head to Leadenhall Market, whose colourful wrought-iron galleries were once the place to buy meat, poultry and game. Here, in Bull’s Head Passage, an opticians once doubled as the entrance to the Leaky Cauldron.
• Best things to do in London with kids
7. Sit at the Houses of Parliament
As political theatres go, the Palace of Westminster is hard to beat. For a sense of history, there’s Westminster Hall, heavy with 14th-century hammer beams and stories of show trials and coronation banquets. For visual drama, you’ve got Big Ben and all the spiky neo-gothic exuberance of Charles Barry and Augustus Pugin’s architecture. And for high politics and low cunning, you’ve got the House of Commons — its beating heart. Take a guided tour so you can better understand the context, and book a free seat in the viewing gallery during prime minister’s questions if you can; that’s when the drama reaches fever pitch.
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8. Drool over the Crown Jewels
Prepare yourself: entry to the Tower of London is far from free. But if you like a bit of sparkle and the whiff of royal pageantry, nothing beats a tour of the Crown Jewels — not even the trip to Buckingham Palace that will surely follow. Together, the Sovereign Orb, St Edward’s Crown and Imperial State Crown (complete with 2,868 diamonds) are just about the last word in bling, and they’re given added impact by the armed guards and thick, strong-room doors you have to pass to reach them. Expect all kinds of revelations as you go; perhaps the most surprising is that at Queen Elizabeth II’s coronation in 1953 — in the bright, scientific light of the nuclear age, only eight years before man’s first space flight — the consecration was regarded as too hallowed to be broadcast to the nation on TV. The cameras cut away while she was anointed with holy oil.
9. Zoom across the Thames
One of the best ways to see London’s landmarks in style is from the water. Hop on a Thamesjet speedboat at Westminster Pier and glide over the river to Canary Wharf. Along the way, you’ll spot Big Ben and the Tower of London, sail underneath Tower Bridge, and take part in a storyline in which you’re aiding the police with an emergency. Want something with a slower pace? Try the City Cruise hop-on, hop-off tour that sails to handy departure piers including Westminster and Greenwich. Take in London from the open-top deck as the captain shares all there is to know about the city and its sights.
10. Dig into the Natural History Museum
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Where on earth do you start with a collection as wide-ranging as this? Half of creation seems to be crammed into the Natural History Museum’s Victorian galleries, and it would take weeks of viewing to do them justice. The easiest route to an overview is to book a private guided tour. Failing that, try one of the museum’s self-guided tours, or focus on one of its four coloured zones — having first paid your respects to the famous and ferocious tyrannosaurus rex animatronic. Then, at the end, visit the galleries devoted to human evolution, which not only explain how we got here, but also what defines us — aside, that is, from our compulsion to collect, examine and categorise the world in museums like this.
11. Rotate around the London Eye
It’s weird how no one talks about the London Eye anymore. The view from the giant South Bank ferris wheel is still one of London’s best for three simple reasons: first, thanks to its position, just downstream from the Houses of Parliament, it overlooks many of the city’s most arresting sights. Second, that view is constantly developing as you make your stately 30-minute progress around its circumference. And finally, you don’t have to ride a lift or hike any stairs to get there — you’re looking and pointing and taking selfies from start to finish.
12. Catch a show in the West End
Move over Broadway: there’s no better place to see a show than in the heart of London’s theatreland. There’s something to please everyone, be it a must-see musical like The Lion King, which has been running for over 20 years, or a newbie, such as 2:22 A Ghost Story — an incredible thriller that’s so far starred everyone from Lily Allen to Tom Felton. Lots of restaurants offer pre-show dining specials — in Soho, tuck into paper-thin egg-topped pancakes at Hoppers, or Blacklock if you’re in search of cheap cocktails and great value steaks.
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13. Explore the British Museum
Yes, it’s filled — in part — with imperial loot. And yes, the Elgin Marbles should probably be sent back to Athens. But don’t let that put you off at least one visit to the British Museum. The 50,000 objects on display here are the cream of an eight million-item collection, and if you have any interest in human history then almost every one of them will give you goosebumps. Again and again, the artistry of their makers will stop you dead in your tracks — whether it’s a rippling, muscular relief of an Assyrian lion hunt, carved around 645BC, or the extraordinary bronze sculptures from 16th-century Benin.
14. Hear evensong at Westminster Abbey
It doesn’t matter what your religious beliefs are, evensong at an English cathedral — a choral tradition fine-tuned by successive generations of composers and choir masters since 1549 — is one of the most ravishing experiences these islands can muster. The pace is steady and thoughtful, and the polyphonic music profoundly comforting; and when the choristers open their lungs and really let rip, the very stone around you seems to ring. Better still, it’s entirely free. At Westminster Abbey, congregations of 500 routinely gather to hear the weekday service at 5pm, so arrive by 4.30pm for a seat — and don’t expect to be able to wander around soaking up the architectural detail while you wait (you’ll need to do that on a separate visit). If you’re looking for a more intimate experience, Southwark Cathedral on the South Bank will do nicely — it too has a strong choral tradition.
15. Book a Blue Badge walking tour
It takes two years to train as one of London’s Blue Badge guides, and when it comes to walking tours around the city, they set the gold standard. Everything from street art in Shoreditch to a straightforward, four-hour introduction to London’s highlights are on offer. Should your budget allow, you can also book a private guide who’ll tailor your tour to your own tastes and interests. Either way, you can expect erudition, wit and cliché-busting details — and a price tag to match. Private tours usually cost around £300 a day — more if you’d like your guidance in a language other than English.
16. Seek out Londinium
The City of London is one of the best places to learn about Roman Britain, but you need to know where to look. Remains of the London Wall are well sign-posted and out in the open but many of the archaeological sites are underground. The Roman Amphitheatre, for example, is found under the Guildhall Art Gallery while the Billingsgate Roman House and Bath is hidden under an assuming office block. An especially interesting exhibit can be found at the London Mithraeum under the offices of Bloomberg — it was moved from its original location but faithfully reconstructed, and features a light and sound show that gives you an idea of worship under the mystical religion of Mithras.
17. Soak in thermal baths underneath the city
Walk into AIRE’s ancient baths and the first thing that will help stressed shoulders drop is the smell of orange blossom — a nod to Seville where the brand began (you’ll find others in the likes of Chicago and Copenhagen). The baths are housed in one of Covent Garden’s most magical buildings: the 18th-century home of JM Barrie, the creator of Peter Pan. Ready-to-relax guests head underground for a 90-minute candle-lit bathing session to dip in and out of waters that range from a breathe-in 10C to a soul-warming 40C. Each pool will surprise you, be it the thousand jets that massage every ache or the Flotarium, a salt-water pool with the density of the Dead Sea. Experiences can be paired with scrubs or massages while oenophiles can soak in a red wine bath. With just 14 guests allowed at any one time, a relaxing experience is guaranteed.
beaire.com
18. Sup a pint at The George
Just down the road from Borough Market, at 77 Borough High Street, lies The George: London’s only surviving galleried coaching inn. It may be owned by the National Trust, and fronted by wonky, 17th-century balustrades, but don’t imagine a sanitised café slathered in heritage paint. This is a proper boozer, which shows the footie whenever England get interesting.
greeneking-pubs.co.uk
19. Book a table at the top-floor bar in Searcys Helix restaurant
Sure, the Shard is higher, but as any Londoner will tell you, the office block at 30 St Mary Axe — universally known as the Gherkin — is a far lovelier. There’s an added buzz that comes from being right in the thick of the City of London, as opposed to one step south of it, as the Shard is. Book a table at the top-floor bar in the Helix restaurant — set beneath a soaring glass ceiling — and get ready to sip your cocktails amid the high-flyers of London’s financial hub. The views alone will make your head spin.
searcysatthegherkin.co.uk
20. Reach new heights at Sky Garden
Seeing London from above is the best way to truly appreciate the city’s crazy fusion of old and new buildings. Prepare for Sky Garden’s 360-degree view of the world-famous skyline and spot everything from St Paul’s Cathedral to the Gherkin through floor-to-ceiling windows and outdoor observation decks. Inside, things are just as impressive — this is London’s highest public garden and blooms year-round with French lavender, bird of paradise plants and pungent African lilies. The best part? Entry is entirely free, though tickets get booked up quickly so aim to secure a date at least a month in advance. Special occasion? Pull up a chair at the garden’s Fenchurch Restaurant to pair those views with fine dining or a glass of champers over on Fenchurch Terrace.
skygarden.london
21. Cross the Millennium Bridge
Experience London in all its giddy, haphazard glory by taking a walk from St Paul’s Cathedral to the Tate Modern art gallery. It starts well enough, as you emerge from the Tube, beneath Sir Christopher Wren’s stately dome. But things get properly eye-popping as you soar above the Thames on one of Europe’s lightest and loveliest river crossings: the Millennium Bridge. From here the twin peaks of London’s recent revival, and its glittering — if precarious — success are obvious. Behind you, and to your left, rise the office blocks of the City of London — the scene of what was one of the world’s great gold-rushes. Meanwhile, straight ahead, the Tate and Shakespeare’s Globe beckon.
visitlondon.com
22. Swim at the London Aquatics Centre
Sure, it cost a fortune to host. But the 2012 London Olympics was a high-point in the city’s recent history — a joyful festival of sport that rejuvenated not just London’s sense of itself, but the Olympic brand too. What’s more, the games’ east London hub — now the Queen Elizabeth Olympic Park — paved the way for a new kind of public outdoor space. At the very least, go for a picnic in one of the quiet, hidden spaces near the Blossom Garden. But you should also bring your bathers: the main 50m pool at the late Dame Zaha Hadid’s curvaceous London Aquatics Centre is a thrilling — and reasonably priced — place for a swim (provided you booked your visit online first). Imagine: Michael Phelps won four gold and two silver medals here, roared on by a crowd of 17,000.
londonaquaticscentre.org
23. Take tea at Claridge’s
Afternoon tea in one of London’s five-star hotels is a reckless, extravagant experience. Claridge’s in Mayfair serves one of best. That’s not just down to the melt-in-the-mouth cakes and pastries, the truffle-seasoned chicken sandwiches and the 20-plus choice of teas and infusions. It’s the sense of occasion generated by the pianist and the glittering, high-ceilinged room. Cancel all plans for dinner afterwards, by the way. You won’t have room for anything more than a rice cracker.
claridges.co.uk
24. Taste the wine at Berry Bros
The district of St James is an eccentric place: shaped by the 18th century, set in its ways and full of charmingly single-minded shops. Shirts, cigars, cheese and antique suits of armour — you can buy them all here. Wine too, if you saunter down St James’s Street to the low doorway of Berry Bros & Rudd. The company can trace its origins back to 1698, and once specialised in coffee. But fine wines and spirits are its stock in trade now, and there’s no escaping the sense of history as you stoop into its panelled showrooms. Downstairs, however, the cellars have been thoroughly modernised, and their vaulted, brick-lined tasting rooms play host to a busy programme of evening tastings. If you want to sample the greats — vintage champagnes, claret, burgundy, the super Tuscans — save up hard and book ahead.
bbr.com
25. Picnic in a park
A picnic in a park is one of the defining summer experiences in London, and Hyde Park is the obvious target for visitors. But why not give your alfresco dining an up-to-the-minute vibe by heading to a more fashionable east London district? On Saturdays, Broadway Market in Hackney is packed with street-food vendors and gourmet stalls, which you can raid en route to London Fields. Even more convenient is the market held every Sunday in the giant green space of Victoria Park. Grab your raw ingredients from bakers, organic farmers, charcuterie specialists and cheesemakers, or buy something cooked: maybe souvlaki, Mexican fried chicken, or Filipino spare ribs. Then find the nearest spare patch of grass, and flop.
victoriaparkmarket.com
26. Unwind with a massage at Neal’s Yard
So hidden is Neal’s Yard that most miss it when exploring Seven Dials. They shouldn’t: this is one of the most colour-popping corners of the capital and has plenty of shops, bars, and cafés worth exploring. Make time to be pampered in the treatment rooms at Neal’s Yard Remedies, the ethical beauty and skincare brand that’s been soothing guests for over 30 years. Your biggest dilemma here will be what to plump for — there’s everything from glow-inducing wild rose facials to reiki on offer. Don’t forget to visit their shop opposite to stock up on your favourite scents after; you’ll get a ten per cent discount if you’ve had a treatment.
nealsyardremedies.com
27. Dance your way to Sadler’s Wells
If dance — rather than song — is your thing, why not book a show at Sadler’s Wells? At the southern tip of Islington, this state-of-the-art theatre attracts the world’s best choreographers and dance companies, and its programme is multifarious and ever-changing. The problem is getting tickets. If you want your socks blown off by innovative staging, brilliant lighting and an electrifying sense of movement, book whatever’s on as soon as you’ve settled on the dates of your visit — you can always get a cab back into Soho when you’re done.
sadlerswells.com
28. Try 1,000 types of tea at Mariage Frères
Tea lover? This Parisian-inspired tea house in Covent Garden is the place to take a sip. There are over 1,000 types to choose between here, also available iced if the sun is shining in the capital. Turquoise, floral, or topped with goji berries — there’s a tipple to suit everyone. You’ll struggle to find a more carefully prepared cup of tea: the water is purified and everything from the temperature to the steeping time is considered before it’s ready to be poured. Special occasion? Treat yourself to Afternoon Tea with a twist: brisket-filled purple bao burgers served alongside scones that come with tea-infused jelly and butter.
mariagefreres.com
29. Sip cocktails on top of Selfridges
Want to transport yourself to the Amalfi coast without leaving Regent’s Street? Pull up a seat on the rooftop of London’s most famous department store. Alto by San Carlo is the perfect post-shopping spot; away from the hustle and bustle, still in the heart of the action, and with an Italian-inspired decor that will look incredible on your Instagram feed. Come to sip cocktails, tuck into net-fresh seafood and fill up on gelato-inspired desserts.
selfridges.co.uk
30. See visual art at Frameless
Immersive art galleries that take over empty buildings — such as Paris’ Atelier des Lumieres in a former foundry — are suddenly in vogue in London. The capital’s version is Frameless, a 30,000 sq ft space by Marble Arch, which has four galleries showcasing 42 works of art from big hitters including Monet, Dali and Van Gogh. Each gallery focuses on a different art movement: you’ll see Dali and Norwegian artist Munch in Beyond Reality, and Monet and Seurat in Colour in Motion, for instance. Once a month the space puts on Frameless Lates, from 6-10pm, where the cute pastel-pink café turns into a bar, and a DJ from Soho Radio provides the soundtrack. The Lates are also a chance to see up-and-coming artists in the Blank Canvas gallery.
frameless.com
31. Walk the Thames Path
Tracing the River Thames from the Cotswolds all the way into the heart of London, the Thames Path spans 185 miles across some of the prettiest corners of England. Doing the whole thing would take you a couple of weeks at a leisurely pace, but you can get a taste of it in a day. Start your journey from the London Eye and simply follow the footpath west — almost the entire route is right next to the river, save for a couple of spots where you have to walk further inland. You’ll pass landmarks such as the Houses of Parliament and Battersea Power Station before the landscape shifts to parks and pretty riverside homes. Look out for bird life too, from herons to swans. Barnes Bridge is a good spot to stop and turn back — the train station is just across the road from the river.
nationaltrail.co.uk
• What to do on a rainy day in London
Additional reporting by Lucy Perrin, Cathy Adams, Alexandra Whiting and Qin Xie
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